Chapter VIII: Front Matter (8)

Climbing the hills to reach the level of Folleigh Lake brings a reward in the form of a gorgeous sunset; and if sunset is entrancing in this quiet spot, what may be said of a row over the lake in the early morning in time to see the golden sunrise of a bright August day. There is calm for the minds of those who stay here in bungalow or cottage along the margin of the lake, and the pleasant vista of wooded banks and beautiful sheet of water in front lays immediate siege to the heart. How everything sparkles in this beautiful mountain, and how delightfully fresh and green are all the surroundings. It is one of the few places where railway station and water tank strike no discordant note in the general scene, so strong is it in simple beauty. The long bright lines of rail that plunge abruptly into the forest and disappear so mysteriously—leaving no trace of their whereabouts—look like lines of beauty; and they soothe by their presence, for we know that in good season we can regain the outer world when the all-too-brief vacation has been spent.

But mountain days are over for the present, and so leaving the lake behind, and with it the invigorating air of the heights, we gradually pass through Londonderry, over the Folleigh River and into Truro, obtaining many pleasant glimpses of Cobequid Bay along the route thus taken.

Although Truro is a prosperous manufacturing town, and an important Intercolonial centre as well, it is yet one of the prettiest and most homelike places in Nova Scotia. A pleasant river runs nearby, and it is surrounded by graceful and well-wooded hills. The streets are well laid out and have abundance of shade; and the public buildings, the stores, and the general appearance of the smart town make a strong impression from the first. It is within a mile or two of Cobequid Bay, and the farming land round about is excellent.

Acadian French once lived here, but the real settlement of Truro dates from a few years after the “Expulsion.”

Truro is a very pleasant inland town in which to spend a vacation. There is beautiful and romantic country on every hand, with excellent roads. The fishing round about is fair; the hunting, in season, excellent. There are many interesting places within easy reach, both by road and rail; and the town offers a pleasant social life that is very enjoyable for those who like to summer in a country town where comfort and some variety in life may be had.

On the meadow-lands traces have been found of the dykes thrown up by the Acadians. Willows planted by them have survived to this day.

The joy and pride of Truro is her beautiful pleasure ground, usually called Victoria Park; but just as often termed the Joe Howe Park, from the fact that it contains the Howe Falls, named after him, and also because it is proposed to erect a Howe memorial there later on. The park has been described as “Nature’s fairyland, . . . . with its groves, its deep ravines and its beautiful waterfall.” This is about as good a brief description as could be made. The park is so beautiful that merely to describe it as one of the best in the province is to rob it of its just due. It has really all the characteristics of a great park, deserves to be classed with the chief pleasure grounds of Canada, and is, in fact, superior in natural beauty to any of the well-known North American parks. It is surely only a question of time before excursion trains will bring people from all over to enjoy the delights of this picturesque place.

The entrance to Victoria park is at the front door of the town, for it is close to the Intercolonial Railway Station. Scarcely anything has been done here to alter the approach or surroundings. It has been left almost as found, and the result is very satisfactory. The deep ravine that runs through the park, and contributes so much to its romantic aspect, has its opening at the place selected for an entrance, and a pretty little stream winds its way in the channel thus provided. A carriage drive penetrates for some distance, but the strong feature that pleases all who visit here is the multitude of walks and romantic by-paths that lead off in every direction.

Here are innumerable little dells with banks of brightest green; and under shady birches or maples are comfortable seats for three or four people—generally holding two, however—where with a pleasant book, or dainty fancy work, many enjoyable hours may be spent in delightful company with birds and flowers. Yonder is a rocky bluff, tipped with green, and down its face trickles a little rill, wetting the projecting edges of the rock and causing them to glisten like silver. Just opposite are even bolder heights that are clothed in a wealth of woodland growth reaching up to the very top.

Here the park brook turns off into more secluded ways, and following it, instead of the road, a charming sylvan dale is found where not one sound intrudes save the music of the birds and the gentle ripple of the water—surely a fit retreat for artist, poet or dreamer. Here where “nature reigns”:

“Within its banks this little stream includes
A world remote from all the world of men;
And hides a kingdom far from mortal ken,
In the green depths, where never foot intrudes.”

Would you stand by the “Wishing Well,” and give expression to your fondest day-dreams? The well is here, up a gentle slope where all is tranquil and secluded. Would you climb “Jacob’s Ladder”—steps up to heaven—and land with your head in yon fleecy cloud? Here are the rustic steps reaching to the top of the height. Would you visit the “Holy Well,” where Acadian infants were christened in the long ago? Bible Hill is a little distant, so here in the park is a “Holy Well” from which, by no stretch of imagination, the same water flows.

Perhaps you are anxious to keep your youth, and to stave off the days of grey hairs, wrinkles and rheumatism? Pray sit in the “Rejuvenating Seat” by the Joe Howe Falls, and if you do not grow younger as you watch the lovely sight—nothing else can stay the hand of time.

Then possibly you wish to test your self-control by peering over the brink of the “Sheer-Drop” without shuddering; or you would entrench yourself on the heights of “Spion-Kop,” ask important questions of the “Sphinx,” from the bridge nearby, walk along the “Observation Gallery,” or pass to the lower depths by “Muir’s Descent.”

In your walks about, the beauty of everything has taken complete possession of you. The noble trees spreading a magnificent canopy over your head bring to mind the words of Bryant, for here nature has “hewn the shaft, laid the architrave and spread the roof above.” In such a cathedral the mind soars upward:

“Ah, why
Should we, in the world’s riper years, neglect
God’s ancient sanctuaries, and adore
Only among the crowd, and under roofs
That our frail hands have raised?”

But here comes a maiden on her way to the “Nymph’s Grotto.” She is too young, and floats along too buoyantly, to have come by way of the rustic “Bridge of Sighs.” Barely eighteen, she cannot have interrupted her tripping course to rest in the “Widow’s Proposal Seat”; but in all probability she has stopped at the “Lily Cauldron” to admire the virgin bloom:

“The white water-lilies, they sleep on the lake,
Till over the mountain the sun bids them wake.

At the rose-tinted touch of the long, level ray,
Each pure, perfect blossom unfolds to the day.

Each affluent pearl outstretched and uncurled
To the glory and gladness and shine of the world.”

1. Below the Falls
2. “What Have You Found?”

As the Truro vision in white, with happy lace and the light exulting step of early youth, passes by, it is evident she will never need to sit in the “Leap Year Engagement Seat,” where “no man may say ‘no’ to a self-respecting, modest woman.” Let us hope that the heart of the male to whom the leap-year question is here “popped” will not be affected by the “Cold Chamber” nearby. And see, our pretty maiden does not stop and rest in the “Irresistible Engagement Seat”; for is she not irresistibly engaging herself, without art or other allurement.

And now by a happy inspiration we guess her name. She is “Phyllis,” of course, and she is on her way to her own seat high up and tree-embowered, where her lover has long and impatiently waited her coming, as all true-lovers ever have done.

“Thou art a fool, said my head to my heart,
Yea, the greatest of fools, thou art,
To be caught with a trick of a tress;
By a smiling face or a ribbon smart—
And my heart was in sore distress.

Then Phyllis came by and her face was fair,
And the sun shone bright on her golden hair,
And her lips they were rosy red.
Then my heart spake out with a brave, bold air—
Thou art worse than a fool, O head!”

In the park will be found a spacious, amphitheatre-like picnic dell with tables and conveniences for those who must indulge in the prosaic occupation of eating. It is a delightful spot, and too much cannot be said in its praise.

And finally, far in the woodland depths, where a fine tree has fallen across the ravine, there will be found a choice spot known only to the favored few at present, but which will be sought out by increasing numbers as it becomes known. It is called “Toll-Bridge,” and here, unobserved of prying eyes, the happy lover has the right to exact “toll” from his _inamorata_, or sweetheart, for assisting her over. Not a single maiden has been known to cross “unassisted,” and none may successfully resist the payment of toll in true-lover’s coin.

In proceeding from Truro to Halifax, the train passes not far from the pleasant little village of Stewiacke. It then meets the Shubenacadie River and stops at the busy little village of that name. From this centre many places east of Halifax may conveniently be reached by stage. Maitland, Gay’s River, Upper and Middle Musquodoboit, and even Guysboro and eastern shore points may all be reached in this manner. Passing by the shore of Grand Lake, stopping at Windsor Junction—from which place the picturesque village of Waverley may be reached, as well as Annapolis Valley and north-shore points—and proceeding along the shore of the beautiful Bedford Basin, the city of Halifax soon comes into view, and the outer Atlantic shore has been reached.

_Halifax—an Ocean Gateway_

With a splendid situation on the slopes of a great harbor, Halifax invites within her hospitable gates all who would sojourn for a while on the shore of the breezy Atlantic. Here is surely a world-harbor, with magnificent approaches, where fleets from every country may ride in security, and here, more than in any port of Canada, the marine of every nation, and the giant warship, too, may be seen. As many as fourteen men-of-war, or battleships, have anchored here at one time, and the Atlantic liners, the traders, the coasting steamers, the sailing vessels and the multitude of sloops, fishing-smacks, yawls, sail boats, launches and row boats all contribute to the general busy life of the port. Its position on the eastern coast is supreme and cannot be challenged, a position that indeed makes it an Empire port in every sense. So much is this the case that with the assured growth of Canada, Halifax must always keep pace; and at no very distant day a harbor rivalling that of New York, a second Liverpool, will come into being, and Halifax will be the seaport of a great British Canadian Empire.

The city has been termed the Cronstadt of America, and it well deserves the name, for its wharves and anchorages are at the inner end of a great five-mile waterway, the banks and islands of which provide commanding positions for the eventful day when “war’s alarms” shall make defense inevitable.

Active and stirring scenes have been witnessed here during the past century. Privateers, blockade-runners, convoys or merchantmen, and war vessels with prizes have well covered the inner waters of the harbor. Busy times those, when in one day forty full-rigged ships, brigs and schooners, with cargoes, were all sold at auction! But better days have come, and peaceful commerce now prevails.

The Indian name for the water approach to Halifax was Chebucto, the meaning of which is “greatest of havens.” The old name was well given, for it is undoubtedly one of the world’s great harbors. The settlement received its present name about the middle of the eighteenth century, in compliment to Lord Halifax, the sponsor being Cornwallis.

The founding of Halifax was attended with great difficulties owing to the hostility of the French and their Indian allies. The original settlers came from England and the New England colonies, as well as from Louisbourg when it was given up to the French by treaty. At that time the woods ran to the water’s edge, and every foot of ground where now stands the city had to be carved out of the forest. Boards and squared timber were brought from Boston to build the first shelters.

Some twenty years after the settlement was showing signs of a steady growth considerable excitement was caused by the arrival of 600 Maroons who had been transported from Jamaica for participation in a rebellion against the authorities of that island. They caused much trouble, and showed a general unwillingness to work or do anything useful. At first this did not show strongly, and work was done by them on that part of the fortification known as the Maroon Bastion. But later they became disaffected and troublesome. One complained that he had to work his farm to get food. Another objected because yams, bananas and cocoa would not grow in Nova Scotia. A third was angry because there were no wild hogs to hunt. Instead of being a help to the Colony, they were an encumbrance; and troops had to be detailed to keep guard and prevent an outbreak.

Their life was altogether foreign to the country in which they found themselves, and their customs could not be grafted on the tree of Nova Scotian life. They became dissipated, and the only work they would do was to hunt or fish. They were polygamous; they buried their dead with unheard of rites in the hollows of the rocks, provided rum, pipe, tobacco and two days’ rations, and thus sent off the ghost of the departed for his journey to the undiscovered land.

Fortunately at this time a place was found for them in Sierra Leone in the land from which they had originated, and greatly to the relief of Sir John Wentworth, the governor at that time, they departed, accompanied by general rejoicings of all in Halifax. Maroon Hall, their former headquarters, has completely decayed; but the great cellar may still be seen by the waters of Cole Harbor to the east of Halifax.

The city retains more traces of its British origin than any other place in America. Just as Quebec is essentially French, so is Halifax peculiarly British; and to go from one of these places to the other, and yet to realize that both are on the Western Continent, is to experience many surprises. Canada is not old enough to have imposing cities. To many this is cause for congratulation, for who would care to go from New York to Halifax to see a second Gotham; while visitors from Chicago, Philadelphia, Ontario, and Western Canada find in old Halifax much that is absolutely new to them. May these conditions continue for many years to come, for there is nothing incompatible between progress and the preservation of all old and well-tried things that fit in with and do not block the wheels of the car in which we all travel, and that has marked above it the direction “Onward!”

Halifax is one of those restful and delightful places where each day’s recreation and exercise brings a night of peace and repose, and where all the conveniences of modern life may be enjoyed without the turmoil and din of the too-bustling city. And the country, the woods, the lakes and the streams are all quite near; so that a life half-city, half-country, may be lived without the inconvenience of having to study traffic conditions at “rush” hours, etc.

In your rambles without the city you will come to a charming little lake, with a fairy like boat resting tranquilly on its quiet surface, where wild flowers spread a fragrant carpet around, and gay little songbirds are in concert on the quivering birches. You will stop to drink in the beauties of the delightful scene, and possibly as you do so you will notice a young couple whose marriage, apparently, is only a week or two in the past. Could there be a better paradise, the world over, for bridal couples than the Maritime Provinces! They are gazing with rapt attention at the scene, and you believe they are talking. Are you curious to know what he is saying and what she replies. Listen! he is speaking.

“There’s not a little boat, sweetheart,
That dances on the tide;—
There’s not a nodding daisy-head
In all the meadows wide,—

In all the warm green orchards,
Where bright birds sing and stray,
There’s not a whistling oriole
So glad as I this day.”

* * * * *

She said, “In all the purple hills,
Where dance the lilies blue,
Where all day long the sleeping larks
Make fairy-tales come true.

Where you can lie for hours and watch
The unfathomable sky,
There’s not a breath of all the June
That’s half so glad as I!”

A conspicuous feature, visible from almost any part of the city, is the Citadel. From its height a splendid and inspiring view may be had of an immense stretch of country; while the harbor, the coast and the surrounding waters are spread at the feet like a huge map in relief. There is no better way of becoming acquainted with the plan of the city and environs; for by walking around the ramparts every outlying area may be seen reaching in to the streets immediately below. By the Citadel gate may be seen two mortars that were used at Louisbourg when that fortress surrendered to Amherst and Wolfe. Visitors are admitted to the citadel on payment of a small fee. The masonry work is enormously strong, and the old-world appearance of glacis, moat and bastion suggest great strength. It all typifies a fast-decaying system of fort defence, and on that account, and because so picturesque, it is worthy of the closest examination and interest. The one o’clock gun still booms from the upper rampart of the Citadel.

1. City Hall, Halifax
2. Provincial Building, Halifax
3. Sebastopol Monument, Halifax
4. Herring Cove, near Halifax

The modern fortifications for the defence of city and harbor are on the islands, and along the shores that make out to the entrance. On George’s Island is Fort Charlotte, and opposite is Fort Clarence. Forts Ogilvie, Cambridge and Point Pleasant are in the park. Ives’ Point and Fort MacNab are on MacNabs Island. York Redoubt crowns a bluff on the western side of the harbor, and Spion Kop is at Sambro by the harbor entrance.

The Dockyard is an interesting place to visit, and the huge Dry Dock should be seen when a great vessel is within its gates.

A favorite recreation on summer evenings is to row or drift in the harbor, and listen to the music given by the bands of the flagships when naval squadrons are in port.

The Provincial Parliament Building contains many interesting historical portraits, and an excellent library that is strong in provincial, Acadian and early history, etc. The long oak table from the cabin of the _Beaufort_ transport, around which sat the council when Cornwallis took the oath as Governor of Nova Scotia, is preserved in a room adjoining the Council Chamber. In the grounds may be seen the South African Memorial of the Nova Scotian soldiers who fell in the Boer War, and also the Statue of the many-sided Joseph Howe.

A memorial to the soldiers who fell in the Crimean War is erected near the gates of St. Paul’s Old Churchyard; and not far away is Government House, the residence of the Lieutenant-Governor of the Province. City Hall stands in its own enclosure, and close by is the quaint old clock tower erected by the Duke of Kent near the foot of Citadel Hill. Punctual himself, he expected others to be equally so. In a nearby building will be found a Natural History Museum, open daily, and well worth seeing. St. Paul’s Church still includes as part of its structure much of the old portion erected soon after the founding of Halifax. American visitors will be interested in learning that the frame of the old building was imported from Massachusetts.

Point Pleasant Park is one of the chief attractions for all who visit the city. It is a park of great natural beauty, situated at the outer end of the peninsula that includes Halifax. Here by the rocky points, on the banks, or from seats under the trees, splendid views of the harbor approaches may be obtained. Far out in the offing is the open sea where white-sailed vessels from many parts are drawing nearer together as they make the harbor. Sea birds are circling and skimming the waves in easy flight, and the cool breeze blows landward, bringing with it that invigorating salty tang of old ocean, every breath of which seems like a draught from the fabled “Fountain of Youth.”

“Ah! what pleasant visions haunt me
As I gaze upon the sea!
All the old romantic legends,
All my dreams, come back to me.

Sails of silk and ropes of sendal,
Such as gleam in ancient lore;
And the singing of the sailors,
And the answer from the shore!

Till my soul is full of longing
For the secret of the sea,
And the heart of the great ocean
Sends a thrilling pulse through me.”

Ocean liners, steamships, sailing vessels, motor-boats and yachts are constantly passing, and the sight is full of pleasant variety. A walk to the old Martello Tower may be enjoyed by striking in from the sea over one of the ingoing paths; and enjoyable walks by the old Chain Fort, past the masked batteries, and around to the beautiful prospect of the North-West Arm, are all of convenient length, The Club House of the Royal Nova Scotian Yacht Squadron is near the Pleasant Street entrance to the park.

The Public Gardens are easily accessible from almost any part of the city, being centrally situated. There are larger, but no finer botanical gardens than these, and the spreading trees, the shady walks, the ponds and lakes, the trim-kept green, the plants, and the great beds of splendid flowers, always in constant succession of bloom, make the “Gardens” a beautiful spot. It is a favorite centre of outdoor recreation and life, and here military band concerts and garden and water _fetes_ are given through the summer.

1. Fountain in Public Gardens, Halifax
2. Rustic Bridge, Public Gardens, Halifax
3. Pavilion, Public Gardens, Halifax
4. In Point Pleasant Park, Halifax

Everyone living anywhere near Halifax takes great pride in the beautiful expanse of water known as the North-West Arm. It is, as its name indicates, an arm of the sea that branches off from the bay and flows inland to the south of the city, in a north-westerly direction. It is about four miles long, and is crowned on each side by wooded banks. It is a great centre for canoeing, rowing, yachting, motor-boating, etc., as well as for bathing, diving, swimming and general aquatic sport. Here in the height of the summer the famous regattas are held, when the numerous club house porches, the banks of the water and every available spot is occupied to witness the races. The sight is gay, unique and peculiar, in its extent, to Halifax. The excursion steamers, sailing vessels, tugs, and boats of every description, as well as private yachts, launches, rowing boats and canoes that line the long course make an exhilarating scene, and one that brings many from hundreds of miles distant to witness it.

Cricket, golf, tennis, curling, boating, canoeing, bathing and diving may all be enjoyed in or near the city; and the locality is a centre for good fishing and the best of hunting.

Of the many favorite drives, one of the best is that along the shore of the Bedford Basin. High hills look down on the noble sheet of water, and at Bellevue, Bedford, etc., are comfortable stopping-places. Here the Duke of Kent lived, at that part of the shore known as Prince’s Lodge. The house has fallen in ruins, and all that remains is the bandstand. Many pretty bungalows and pleasant summer places are found along the shore.

Along this shore camped the survivors of the great French Armada of 1746, that was to have conquered all British America. Of the 40 warships and 30 transports that left Brest, only a scattered remnant survived storm and disaster and was able to return to the home port. Halifax, Louisbourg and Annapolis were all to have been taken from the British by this formidable fleet. But disaster followed in the wake of nearly every vessel of the great squadron; for after being dispersed and scattered by heavy storms that destroyed many vessels of the fleet, the survivors became the prey of a violent and fatal sickness. They wintered along the shore of the Bedford Basin, and died there by thousands. The commander, d’Anville, died suddenly and was buried on the island now known as George’s Island. The second in command, D’Estournel, committed suicide on his sword, in a fit of despair. La Jonquière then assumed command of the weakened and dispirited force. He burned one of his frigates, and other vessels, the remains of which may still be seen in the Bedford Basin near the Three-Mile House, and also close to Navy Island. Then rallying his command he left to attack Annapolis, but again was the fleet battered and dispersed by storms, and the survivors had to endure many hardships before they reached their native France. Rust-eaten muskets and swords have frequently been found along the Bedford shore when clearing away the underbrush.

Other good routes are those to Dutch Village and the Dingle, to the Chain Lakes, and to the Rocking Stone on the way to St. Margaret’s Bay.

Lawrencetown, about two hours’ drive from Dartmouth, has a good beach with surf-bathing, and may be reached by stage. Chezzetcook, an old Acadian settlement, is also quite accessible in the same way. York Redoubt, Falkland Village and Herring Cove all make pleasant drives.

The Musquodoboit River country to the east of Halifax had French settlements fully half a century before the first British settler arrived at what is now the great stronghold and capital city of Nova Scotia.

Crossing to Dartmouth on the ferry a pleasant road leads to the Dartmouth Lakes. This beautiful chain of lakes is part of a system of waterways intended to be made continuous from Halifax and Dartmouth to the Bay of Fundy, at Maitland and Cobequid Bay, by means of the Shubenacadie River. A canal was to have connected the lakes and river, but the project fell through. The ruins of the old locks at the Dartmouth end are well worth seeing. Excellent views may be enjoyed from Dartmouth and Prince Arthur Parks. Many camping parties are found on the shores of the first and second lakes, and boating is there a favorite recreation.

Another pleasant road is that to Cow Bay, where a fine beach and good bathing may be enjoyed.

“I leave the town with its hundred noises,
Its clatter and whir of wheel and steam,
For woodland quiet and silvery voices,
With a camp of bark by a crystal stream.

Oh, peaceful and sweet are forest slumbers
On a fragrant couch with the stars above,
As the free soul marches to dulcet numbers
Through dreamland valleys of light and love.”

Enjoyable trips may be made from Halifax to the Minas Basin, Grand Pré, and the Annapolis Valley; along the south shore to St. Margaret’s Bay, Chester, and Mahone Bay, Liverpool, Lockeport and Shelburne, and to Lakes Rossignol, Keejim-Koojie, Ponhook, etc.

No port of Canada offers the numerous water trips that may be made from Halifax. Steamers leave here for St. John’s, Newfoundland; St. Pierre-Miquelon, Magdalen Islands, Pictou and Prince Edward Island, Gaspé peninsular points, Sydney, Ingonish, Aspy Bay, Louisbourg, Glace Bay, Bras d’Or Lakes, Port Hood, Mabou and many other Cape Breton points; Guysboro, Mulgrave and other ports in the Strait of Canso; Country Harbor, Isaacs Harbor, Sherbrooke, Liscomb, Sonora, Jeddore, Ship Harbor, Tangier, Sheet Harbor, and many places along the east shore; Lunenburg, Liverpool, Shelburne, Yarmouth on the south shore; St. John, N.B.; and finally, not including transatlantic ports, there are trips to Jamaica and Santiago: and to New York, Boston and Philadelphia.

Other particulars of Halifax and eastern shore localities will be found in the chapter on “Where to Go.” The deep-sea fisheries of the South Shore are very large and important, and at Halifax and elsewhere along the coast ample opportunities are found for catching swordfish, leaping tuna, mackerel, codfish and haddock, etc. Whaling was formerly carried on by numerous vessels outfitting and sailing from Halifax. A settlement of Nantucket Whalers was made in Dartmouth, but they afterwards left; and the whaling industry gradually died out as a result of the great slaughter of those fish in early days.

_Nova Scotia, North and East_

Between Truro and Stellarton there is a continuance of the pleasant scenery found in the Truro Valley; but the Northumberland Straits Shore and neighboring territory between Oxford Junction and Stellarton, and beyond that to Mulgrave and the Strait of Canso, has features of its own quite unlike those of the country previously described. The nearest approach in general characteristics is found at the mouth of the Miramichi, and in the neighborhood of Point du Chene. It is a country of meadow lands and tranquil rivers, although as Antigonish and other places are approached the meadows are frequently varied by the addition of hills and occasional rolling land.

It is a land of verdure and freshness; and if bold mountain ranges are absent, in their place will be found prolific meadows, luxurious tree-growth, quiet streams, singing birds, and abundant floral life.

“’Twas in June’s bright and glorious prime,
The loveliest of the summer time,
The laurels were one splendid sheet
Of crowded blossoms every where;
The locust’s clustered pearl was sweet,
And the tall whitewood made the air
Delicious with the fragrance shed
From the gold flowers all o’er it spread.”

Pugwash is a quiet and modest little watering place on the Northumberland Straits, only a short run from Oxford Junction. There is bathing on the shore, and boating in the excellent harbor. Some bungalows have been erected in a fine situation for the water view and the cool evening air. Like most of the places that are a little remote from the beaten highway of travel, Pugwash is quite quaint in its appearance and everyday life. The streets are very pleasant, there are plenty of river views and walks, and there are many good roads. It is one of those places where a very quiet and restful summer may be spent at very moderate expense.

The scenery by Tatamagouche River, and also by the Swiss settlement of River John, is very enjoyable. A pleasing sheet of water is at Tatamagouche. The land is low, but the bay winds and turns and has little coves in it, so that it makes an attractive waterway for boating and canoeing. Malagash Point makes out at the far western extremity of the main bay. The Tatamagouche is a pretty little stream with picturesque banks—the flat country here gradually taking a moderate elevation in parts. River John is a stream of fair proportions, nicely wooded with young trees along its gentle sloping banks of brightest green. Going east from here the country becomes somewhat undulating, and on approaching Lyon’s Brook and Pictou, hills of bolder height are seen.

The country through which we are passing is that of the blackbird and the bobolink, and the rivers, water reaches and tall grasses are the homes of wild fowl of almost every kind.

“The redwinged merle, from bending spray
On graceful pinions poising,
Pours out a liquid roundelay
In jubilant rejoicing.
The cock-grouse drums on sounding log,
The fox forsakes his cover,
The woodcock pipes from fen and bog,
From upland leas the plover.

The speckled trout dart up the stream,
Beneath the rustic bridges,
While flocks of pigeons glance and gleam
O’er beach and maple ridges.
The golden robin trills his note
Among the netted shadows,
The bobolink with mellow throat
Makes musical the meadows.”

Pictou is situated on a fine harbor, possibly the finest along the shore, which has three rivers emptying into it. It is a delightful little summer resort, where many enjoyable drives may be taken into the surrounding country. Walks about will reveal many charming spots. There are pretty brooks, and refreshing woodland walks. The boating is excellent, and the nearby shore offers pleasant variety in coves and tiny creeks. There is a clean sand beach for sheltered or harbor bathing. Good trout fishing will also be found in the surrounding streams. Lord Strathcona has a summer home in the neighborhood. The East River communicates with New Glasgow, only some 9 miles distant. The growing town of Westville is on the Middle River. West River has much pretty scenery along its course, and it is here that most of the fishing is done.

Pictou was once the site of a large Indian village. Later the French tried to build up a settlement and they were followed by Pennsylvanians from the neighborhood of Philadelphia. Finally, many hardy Highlanders found their way here, and by them the real settlement was made. At the mouth of Pictou harbor the last fight between the Kennebec and Micmac Indians took place.

Stages leave here for many places of interest along the shore, and also to some inland points. Steamships also leave for Prince Edward Island, for Quebec and St. Lawrence Gulf ports, for Hawkesbury and the Strait of Canso, and for West Cape Breton and the Magdalen Islands.

The whole neighborhood is a pleasant one, and, in addition, there is some of the life of a busy little town that many tourists consider essential in a summer stopping-place.

1. Pictou
2. South River, Antigonish
3. West River, Stellarton
4. Garden of Eden Lake
5. Grey’s Falls, Hopewell
6. Antigonish, Cattle on the Intervale

The country between Truro and Stellarton on the southern loop or main line of the Intercolonial Railway has not been opened up or developed for summer visitors. It is nevertheless a beautiful country; and walks, drives and excursions by rail from Truro or New Glasgow along the pretty hills, vales and streams will bring much pleasure.

Stellarton and New Glasgow are growing and prosperous coal-mining and manufacturing centres. Stellarton is the centre of a coal district from which immense quantities of that valuable fuel have been mined. New Glasgow is a bright and up-to-date town with excellent stores and commercial facilities. There are pleasant drives along the East River, and to the south.

Proceeding east past Merigomish and other small places, the very interesting and pretty town of Antigonish, at the head of a small harbor on St. George’s Bay, is reached. It is a Scottish settlement that has more individuality and charm than would be thought possible for a town on a railroad. It is a place of pleasant shady streets, picturesque hills, winding streams and numerous bridges. Its fine Catholic Cathedral and modern College are conspicuous objects from all around. Antigonish is not spoiled by the proximity of a large city, and so the life of the surrounding country centres in the busy little place; and it is one of those delightful places that somehow appeal to the heart from the first moment of arrival.

The harbor is some distance off, and, being shallow, is little used. There are very pleasant drives in every direction. For a pleasant stay in a pretty country town, few places will please more than this; and for those who like that pastime, some canoeing may be done in the adjacent waters. The climate is very enjoyable, mild and temperate. The nights are lovely.

“On summer nights the yellow stars
Shine through the watches held on high
Suspended from the countless spars
Of cloud-fleets anchored in the sky;
And wafted past upon the breeze
Slow winding down from distant heights
There comes the roll of far-off seas
On summer nights.

* * * * *

On summer nights the steadfast stars
Swing from the masts of shadow ships
That lie within the harbor bars
Where the long sea-roll curls and dips;
And still there comes in divers keys
Down drifting from those beacon lights
The spectral wash of far-off seas
On summer nights.”

Antigonish is an important centre for stage coach and other drives to many places of great interest. The route to Lochaber, College Lake and Sherbrooke leads past the Antigonish Mountains to the St. Mary’s River and Atlantic Ocean on the south, and is full of variety. There are drives to Morristown and Georgeville, and to Malignant Cove by a delightful road through the hills. It was here that the British frigate _Malignant_ took the shore in a heavy gale. Near here is the Scottish settlement of Arisaig, which has a romantic situation and a little shelter-harbor.

At Heatherton Station a stage may be taken for Guysboro at the head of Chedabucto Bay. It is a most interesting drive. Beyond Heatherton lies Tracadie, a quaint French district where there is a Trappist Monastery, the Belgian Monks of which make excellent farmers. Both in Tracadie and Harbor au Bouche a quaint old-time life is lived, and the places are well worth a visit.

Proceeding now to the most easterly railroad point in peninsular Nova Scotia, the village of Mulgrave is reached. Mulgrave is on the Strait of Canso, the much-travelled marine highway from the Atlantic Ocean to the Gulf of St. Lawrence, and by the use of which the long voyage around the Island of Cape Breton is rendered unnecessary. It has been termed the “Golden Gate of the St. Lawrence,” and without doubt is a most picturesque waterway. Thousands of vessels pass through here every year, and at almost any hour of the day the sight is a pleasant one and full of variety. Bold and plentifully wooded hills flank the splendid waterway for a considerable length of its fifteen-mile course. Here the Intercolonial Railway ferry crosses and recrosses to Cape Breton Island on the opposite shore of the Strait, carrying over passengers, cars, etc., to and from Sydney and intermediate stations on the island. There are many pleasant trips from Mulgrave by steamboat to Guysboro, Canso, Arichat, Port Hawkesbury and Port Hastings, Bras d’Or Lake by way of St. Peter’s, Port Hood, Margaree and Cheticamp on the West shore of Cape Breton, and to Montague and Georgetown on Prince Edward Island.

The town of Guysboro is quite an old settlement, for Nicholas St. Denys had a fishing station at the place now known as Fort Point. The fisheries here have always been very valuable, and Chedabucto, at the head of which Guysboro is, has been the resort of many vessels engaged in fishing for mackerel, herring, codfish and pollock. The settlement itself with its long street of most generous width lying along the water, at a little distance from it, and the grassy little streets on the overlooking hills, is very attractive as a quiet summer resort, with good boating and canoeing. As a centre for sailing and excursions by water, and also for drives in every direction, it is excellent. Being somewhat remote, it is a place where a restful summer may be spent, with cool air and genial surroundings. Like Antigonish, it is a place with a homelike air that takes the fancy from the very first; and here, of course, boating and fishing are at the very door. There are pleasant water trips nearby to Milford Haven and Boylston, and innumerable longer excursions to places on Chedabucto Bay, to Isle Madame and other Cape Breton points, as well as to Hawkesbury and Mulgrave on the Strait of Canso. There are good drives, also, with fishing sport, to Salmon River and surrounding lakes, as well as to Whitehead, Tor Bay and other places on the outer Atlantic coast. In summer the water of Chedabucto Bay is ordinarily quiet and smooth, and it takes just a moment to pass out into the open bay from Guysboro’s little shelter-harbor. When a gale blows from the east, the sea piles up in rollers and sweeps up to the harbor entrance in fine commotion. It is a place half-country and half-shore, with sea life predominating.

“I picked up shells with ruby lips
That spoke in whispers of the sea,
Upon a time, and watched the ships,
On white wings, sail away to sea.

The ships I saw go out that day
Live misty—dim in memory;
But still I hear, from far away,
The blue waves breaking ceaselessly.”

The coast line west of Chedabucto Bay is rich in bays and roomy inlets, with numerous lakes and rivers in communication. The St. Mary’s River waters a fine tract of country, and connects with the beautiful Lochaber Lake some thirty miles inland. A stage-coach drive across the peninsula from beautiful Antigonish to the head navigation waters of the St. Mary’s River at Sherbrooke is an enjoyable summer outing. The scenery is finely varied, and the whole district is full of interest.

On the middle St. Mary’s River good salmon fishing is often found at the Crow’s Nest, a typical interior country place.

Considerable salmon fishing with nets is carried on in the lower waters of the river between Sherbrooke and Sonora on the coast, a distance of about nine miles.

The village of Sherbrooke has a very pleasant situation on the river, and it is one of those quiet and remote places where a thoroughly restful vacation may be enjoyed by those who love country life and pleasant rambles. There is excellent boating at Sherbrooke, as well as above and below it. Motor-boats have a fine nine-mile run to the ocean, with numerous excursion points within easy reach of the mouth of the river.

The canoeing waters of Sherbrooke are excellent. A delightful holiday may be spent by making headquarters in the village to explore the upper waters of the river. There are pleasant settlements all along the course up to its head waters. Being remote from regular travel routes, the district is fresh and unspoiled; and those who enjoy absolute quiet, unconventional life and a friendly welcome will be sure to feel at home in Sherbrooke.

Country Harbour to the east, and Sheet Harbour, Port Dufferin and Musquodoboit to the west are all pleasant little places.

A railroad is to be built, along the south-east shore between Halifax and Guysboro. When it is finished, the fine harbors and the rugged and romantic places along the shore will be brought within easy reach of the summer visitor. In the meantime such places are fairly accessible by stage-coach from points on the Intercolonial Railway between Shubenacadie and Heatherton or Antigonish; and they may also be reached by steamboat from Halifax and Guysboro or Mulgrave.

_Cape Breton Island_

Cape Breton Island, lying at the entrance to the Gulf of St. Lawrence, has been termed the “front door” of Canada; a distinction that should properly be shared with Newfoundland; for the naval power that holds these Atlantic outposts could destroy or dominate the whole maritime trade of the great river.

If the Norse voyagers discovered North America, and sailed into the Gulf of St. Lawrence a thousand years ago, as many believe, they must have passed by and seen Cape Breton; and, in all probability, they must have been the first Europeans to land upon its shore.

The first name of the Island, Baccalaos, is held by some to indicate an early visitation of the Portuguese, much earlier than Cabot’s time; for Baccalaos is a Portuguese word meaning “cod fish,” and it is well known that early European fishermen frequented these waters, and engaged in the cod fishing. The Portuguese are believed to have made some attempt to found a settlement at or near the present village of Ingonish. It is not certain whether Cabot landed here on his voyage of discovery in the year 1497; nor has it been established that Verazzano, the Florentine navigator, landed at or near Cape Breton in the year 1524. It is not even certain that Jacques Cartier landed on the island in any of his three American voyages, although he is thought to have given the old French name of Loreine to a cape at the northern end of the Island.

In the reign of Queen Elizabeth a British mariner is said to have visited Cape Breton. His name was Richard Strong, and he came in his little bark, the _Marigold_, of 70 tons. He is supposed to have landed near where the town of Louisbourg now is. About this time fur-trading commenced to attract European sailors, and by the close of Queen Elizabeth’s reign fully two hundred English vessels were engaged in bartering for furs, and fishing for cod and other fish in upper North American waters.

Cape Breton received its present name from the Breton fishermen who either “discovered” the Island, or, what is more likely, fished in its waters. It is easy to understand that where they congregated to fish might most readily be named the Bay or the Cape of the Bretons. During the time that it was a French possession it was by them called L’Isle Royale, but since 1758 it has been known by the name it now bears.

With the exception of some low lying and undeveloped places on the south shore, the whole Island offers all that the summer visitor holds dear, bold scenery and fine prospects, charming vale and river districts, beautiful woods, romantic gorges, sparkling waterfalls, sunny skies, delightful temperature, and invigorating air. The summers from May to October are probably as enjoyable as those in the most favored part of the world that may be chosen for comparison. For its northern and eastern position there is remarkable immunity from fog. The southern end is where fog may be seen when it prevails.

Only those that have gone over the whole ground can realize the wealth of picturesque beauty and variety found in Eastern Quebec and the Maritime Provinces of Canada, and this variety is again exemplified in Cape Breton; for after passing from Quebec to New Brunswick, from New Brunswick to Prince Edward Island, and thence to southern and eastern Nova Scotia, and finding constant variety at almost every stage—here in Cape Breton the contrast is still maintained. The growing popularity of these provinces is perhaps only natural when their situation and advantages are considered. They are rapidly becoming what nature evidently intended they should be—international vacation grounds for the people of the western hemisphere.

There are no fashionable resorts in Cape Breton. For the majority this is perhaps one of its strongest recommendations. There are luxuries in a few centres, and comforts in many more, with plain but substantial living in most of the smaller places. The railroad mileage is not very extensive, as yet, but it is supplemented by steamboat traffic along the east, west and south coasts, and over the waters of the Bras d’Or Lake. Carriages are used for reaching interior parts that are remote from rail or steamboat routes. Because of this a systematic description following the coast line, etc., is not advisable, and in place of it the plan is followed of describing the accessible parts of the island from the chief centres of railway, steamboat and carriage travel.

1. Kennan Bungalow, Baddeck
2. Webber Bungalow, Baddeck
3. Boating at Wycocomagh
4. In Sydney Harbor
5. At the Wharf, Baddeck
6. Marble Mountain Quarry

In some places, such as the Sydneys, Grand Narrows, etc., excellent accommodation is found. In other resorts, such as Baddeck, Whycocomagh, Louisbourg, St. Peter’s, Mabou and Ingonish, quite comfortable quarters may be found. In the Margaree, Middle River and North River districts, also, there are here and there little inns where very pleasant and comfortable days may be spent.

Whether seen on foot, or from train, steamboat or carriage, there can be no doubt that Cape Breton is one of the most enjoyable spots on earth. Gushing springs, dancing rills, plashing brooks, cascading rivulets, musical streams, murmuring rivers, everywhere. What a wealth of graceful ferns; what gardens of wildflowers; what splendid trees and noble forests; what tranquil vales; what majestic mountains! And the blue sea, the crested waves, the milky foam, the fleecy clouds! Surely such scenes as these were in Sir Walter Scott’s mind when he wrote his Highland Scene:

Here eglantine embalmed the air,
Hawthorn and hazel mingled there;
The primrose pale, and violet flower,
Found in each cliff a narrow bower;

* * * * *

Aloft the ash and warrior oak
Cast anchor in the rifted rock,
And, higher yet, the pine-tree hung
His shatter’d trunk, and frequent flung,
Where seem’d the cliffs to meet on high,
His boughs athwart the narrow’d sky.
Highest of all, where white peaks glanced,
Where glistening streamers waved and danced,
The wanderer’s eye could barely view
The summer heaven’s delicious blue;
So wondrous wild, the whole might seem
The scenery of a fairy dream.

The early settlement of Cape Breton was entirely French. At the time of the expulsion of the Acadians from the peninsular part of Nova Scotia, many took refuge in the then L’Isle Royale, or Cape Breton. The early French, and the Acadians by whom they were afterwards joined, have retained their old life in a remarkable degree. It is a delight to meet them in modern up-to-date America. Scottish Highlanders, too, are in Cape Breton in large numbers; and the virtues and customs of this rugged and estimable people may be studied against the pleasant background of mountain and flood, so like the home scenery of “Caledonia, stern and wild.” Micmac Indians are here, too; but not in such great numbers as formerly.

First, following the line of the Intercolonial Railway from Point Tupper by way of the Bras d’Or Lake to Sydney, the general appearance of the country may be noticed.

The first view of the Island when approaching by the railway ferry is quite impressive, although the peculiar features do not grow until the interior is gradually reached. After passing McIntyre’s Lake there is considerable up-grade to gain the height of the bold hills that are capped in the distance by a still higher formation. The scene as the height is gained is very striking, entirely distinct in character from either the open, soft beauty of the Wentworth Valley, or the combination of river, forest and mountain seen in the Matapedia district.

Here an immense valley lies in the very depths to the left. The tops of the trees are far below, and, although we climb up and up, the great trees still crowd the forest, with here and there a glistening stream showing through the valley rifts. The woodland view is one of unparalleled grandeur.

Descending, we skirt a huge mountain with tier after tier of woodland stretching up into the heights; and here we dash out on an elevated plateau to see a peaceful hamlet smiling in white and green in the tranquil depths below.

River Denys is a pretty stream of modest proportions running at the foot of, and almost shut in by tall trees that tower up majestically in all the glory of height and symmetry. A peculiar and picturesque aspect is given to the woodland by the tall and slender birches, like palm trees—devoid of branch and leaf below, and having only a feathery, outspreading growth at the top.

There is a pleasing water view at Orangedale, with a charming vista of green shores stretching out to the lake. The first impression of the Bras d’Or Lake is one of peaceful calm, as the evening sun crimsons the broad and far-reaching expanse of water.