Chapter IX: Front Matter (9)

The Great Bras d’Or Lake is about 45 miles long and nearly 20 miles wide. It is very deep in nearly every part of it, varying from 90 to 350 feet. In one place a depth of 1200 feet has been found, just a short distance from the shore. Old maps and references give the name “Labrador” for this beautiful lake. It may also be mentioned that Nicholas Denys published a book in Paris in the latter half of the seventeenth century in which he refers to the Bras d’Or Lake as “Le Lac de Labrador.” The present name is undoubtedly founded on the old one. It is almost identical in pronunciation, too; and as it has a meaning, “arm of gold,” that describes the appearance of the lake at sunrise and sunset, it has come into general use.

The Little Bras d’Or Lake, exclusive of channels, is about ten miles long; its breadth nearly six miles. It has a depth of 700 feet in places. Two peninsulas nearly meet at the Grand Narrows and thus almost separate the Great from the Little Bras d’Or. The two lakes are called the Bras d’Or Lakes; but because their waters communicate so that a passage from one to the other may easily be made through the Grand Narrows channel, the whole water system is now frequently called the Bras d’Or Lake.

The Bras d’Or Lake is really an inland sea, or, more correctly, an arm of the Atlantic Ocean. In the waters of the upper or smaller of the two lakes is the long and narrow island, Boularderie, some 28 miles long, and nearly three miles wide at its northern end, where it fronts on the Atlantic. East and west of it are channels or inlets from the ocean. That on the east, tide-swept and impassable for large boats, is the Little Bras d’Or or St. Andrews channel. The wider channel on the west side may be traversed by any vessel afloat, as it has a depth of from thirty to two hundred feet. Both channels lead south through the Grand Narrows into the larger of the two lakes, where at the southern end the narrow isthmus has been cut, and where a canal with locks enables vessels to pass in and out.

It has been said of the Bras d’Or that it is the most beautiful salt-water lake ever seen. The substance of Warner’s comment is seen to be true by all who visit these shores. “The water runs into lovely bays and lagoons, having slender tongues of land and picturesque islands. It has all the pleasantness of a fresh-water lake, with all the advantages of a salt one.” There is practically no tide, the comparatively narrow sea entrances acting to resist the flow of water out and in. The difference in level is usually less than a foot.

One or more of the numerous cruises on these waters, described later, should be taken, as well as the journey over the railway, now resumed.

The view of the lake as McKinnon’s Harbor is approached is beautiful. The tree growth is larger, fantastic little islands dot the smooth water, and the whole panorama of mainland, island and broad lake is indeed magnificent. Nearing Iona the peculiar appearance of the landscape whitened by the outcroppings of gypsum or plaster rock is very noticeable. In many places the shore view of headland and water is very similar to that on the Atlantic coast, except in the placidity of the water. At Ottawa Brook a lovely view of island-dotted lake is seen stretching out in a far-away and pleasing vista to the south. At a small siding, nearby, a small meadow stream meanders fantastically through a verdant plain that is dotted with haystacks, and has here and there little bridges raised high above the general level to keep them secure in the time of spring and flood—a time of utmost consequence to farmers of intervale, for it brings rich deposits of alluvial mud to fertilize the low-lying fields.

From Iona, and Grand Narrows on the opposite shore, the steamer _Bluehill_ makes connections for Baddeck, and from Grand Narrows another boat leaves for St. Peter’s and other points. At Iona station, by the “narrows,” passengers may take the opportunity of alighting to see the fine Intercolonial Railway bridge that spans the channel. It has a “draw” near the Grand Narrows side to allow vessels to pass from upper lake to lower, or the reverse. Grand Narrows attracts tourists to its comfortable hotel on the water, as it makes a good centre for seeing the surrounding country. It is also a place of call for the lake steamboats. There are fine views to be had in the vicinity.

The run over the railway from Grand Narrows by Boisdale, Barachois and George’s River to Sydney is a pleasant one along the eastern shore of the upper lake; and it should be made both ways in order to see the water after sunrise and at sunset—the two effects being quite different. Journeying and looking out on the shore, at times a sandy crescent is seen to run out into the lake and terminate in gentle mound, green sward and comely tree-growth. Often there are small lakes, and frequently a little chain of such; and at these places, with the boats of the fishermen drawn up on the strand between the great lakes and the lakes in miniature, the scene is novel and most striking.

Here are two sandy arms running out, and drawing together at their outer ends—forming a harbor within a harbor—where a little flotilla of brown-sailed fishing craft rides snugly, protected even from the windy scud of a stormy day.

1. Woodland Scene
2. Brook Scene
3. An Old Mill
4. Farm Paddock
5. Mira River
6. Catch of Salmon, Margaree River
7. River Denys
8. Middle River
9. St. Ann’s Bay

Over there a small headland of some forty feet in height has lost its crown of brown rocks that lie in picturesque disorder at its base, lapped by the gentle ripple of the tide, and mimicking the giant scenes of the rugged Atlantic shore. Nor are bolder effects wanting, for yonder, across the channel, a huge mountain rises proudly to the sky; and it, too, has thrown part of its rocky cap down and far out into the deeper tide.

No more beautiful view of mountain, blue water and gently-sloping wooded shore can be seen than that between Barachois and Sydney River; and on a morning when the bright sun has dissipated the early mists, and rides resplendent in a sky dotted here and there with fleecy clouds, the picture is truly superb.

The pleasing effect of the tree-dotted sand bars running out from the shore—making lagoons whose tranquil silver surfaces, protected by tiny headlands, show in delightful contrast with the deep blue of the more ruffled outer waters—must be seen before an adequate conception of their great beauty can be formed. There is a great difference between coast scenery and that of what may be termed an inner coast shore, such as that of the Bras d’Or Lake.

If the scenery of outer coast is striking and grand in its rugged majesty, that of the calmer and more protected inner shore compels admiration for its softer effects—no less striking in their tranquil beauty—scenic miniatures in nature’s most exquisite setting.

The city of Sydney has become the centre of a district that is rapidly increasing in population and commercial importance. It is the capital of Cape Breton, and the great mining and manufacturing industries of the Island centre altogether in this eastern district. It is the present terminus of the Intercolonial Railway. It has an exceedingly fine harbor. This harbor is divided into two arms, known as the ports of Sydney and North Sydney, and the average depth of water is fifty feet. The water area is very extensive, so much so that Sydney ranks as one of the world’s great harbors. The north and south bars at the entrance act as natural break-waters, and the inner waters are easy of access.

While it is generally known that the distance from Sydney to Liverpool is much less than that from New York to the British port, it will come as a great surprise to most when they learn how much closer Sydney is than New York to points in South America and South Africa. For instance, Pernambuco, at the most easterly projection of the South American continent, is nearer to Sydney than New York by 24 miles. New Orleans, an extreme southern port of the United States, is even more distant from the South American point named by a stretch of over 575 miles; and, strange as it may seem, the voyage to the Cape of Good Hope in South Africa is very much shorter from Sydney than from United States ports.

Sydney River offers a broad and pleasant stream for boating. The country by the lower part is flat, but becomes hilly and nicely wooded as the upper waters are gained. For some distance inland there are excellent runs for motor-boating, sailing, rowing and canoeing. Crawley’s Creek is also a good boating place. There are many pleasant drives to the lakes in the vicinity, as well as to many pretty inlets on the coast, and by the inner waters of the harbor. There is an excellent view from Victoria Park at the end of the peninsula. The district surrounding Sydney has a number of pleasant features, and the city itself may be chosen as a centre for excursions to Port Morien, the Mira River and Louisbourg.

North Sydney is the port from which the steamers of the Reid-Newfoundland line leave for Port-aux-Basques, Newfoundland; and from this port steamers may be taken for St. John’s, Newfoundland, as well as to Hawkesbury, Halifax, Charlottetown, Montreal, Quebec, St. Pierre and Miquelon. There is a good ferry service between here and Sydney, local lines for points on the Bras d’Or Lakes, and, in addition, there are steamers to northern points along the eastern shore of Cape Breton.

Those who visit here from the great manufacturing and mining centres of the United States will, of course, be familiar with coal mining and steel plants; but many others who come from other industrial centres will find it both interesting and instructive to visit the works of the Nova Scotia Steel and Coal Company and collieries, etc., in the neighborhood. The various industries of this kind hereabouts will soon rival the giant industries of Pennsylvania; and all interested in such industries should spend some days in seeing the many novel sights they offer. Those who have never seen a similar sight should by all means see a cast made at the Dominion Steel Works. The coal industry is now an immense one. In these days of coal at seven dollars a ton it seems strange to read that at the time of the inglorious Quebec Expedition under Admiral Walker, coal in quantities was taken from the Sydney cliffs with iron crow-bars.

The Marconi “Wireless” Station at Table Head, Glace Bay, with its four towers, is sure to be an object of interest to all who go near this part of the coast.

That giant fish the Albacore, or leaping-tuna, weighing from 500 to 800 pounds and over, is caught along the North Atlantic coast in certain favored spots. At Lockeport and other places on the South Shore of Nova Scotia they are caught in great trap nets. They are also caught off the Cape Breton coast; and as the honor of catching the first of these monstrous fish with rod and line not far from Sydney fell to the well-known sportsman, Mr. Ross, of Montreal, a description from Patillo of a hand-line expedition for albacore is here given.

“Stout cod-lines were used, 32 fathoms long. The hook was of steel, three-eighths of an inch thick. It was eight inches wide, and had a three-inch shank. A stiff, moderately low boat was used, and the lines were attached to swivel reels to run them on and off. Herrings were taken for bait. We started off and soon reached the fishing ground. Presently one of the fishermen casting nets nearby called out to us, ‘Halloa, boys! here’s a fellow!’ meaning an albacore, followed by a shout from another, and still another that they were about their boats; so we slowly moved outside the range of the boats, throwing over a herring every few yards to toll them along with us. When far enough away we secured the reel to the boat athwart, for we were a bit afraid of the fish we expected to grapple with. Then I threw over a herring to see if there were any albacores near us, and to our delight a monster rushed for it just under the surface, so I threw another loose herring, and then one attached to the hook. He rushed for the first one, whirled and took hold of the other, and we had hold of him. Then for a few minutes we had a good imitation of the antics of a wild prairie horse when first haltered. He jumped his full length out of the water, which gave us a very vivid idea of the monster we were attached to; then he started at an awful pace across the harbor. The line was running out swiftly, so that we had to move as quickly to get it into the notch in the stern, which we had wisely thought to make. Then I seized an oar and placed it for steering, while we both got positions to trim the boat. We feared something might break if the boat remained motionless; so to obviate this my friend succeeded in grasping the line partially, and thereby gradually started the boat, while I helped by sculling, so that by the time it was all off the reel, she was moving faster than ever she did before. The fish kept up the pace for at least ten minutes, towing us directly into the harbor; then he made a jump, turned and took us straight back to the fishing grounds. The men in fishing boats had been watching us with great interest, not supposing for a moment they were to have any part in it; but when they saw us going directly for them, the shouting and hooting and swearing that suddenly started from them would have been laughable to disinterested spectators. We could see plainly that if he continued the course he was then taking us, nothing short of a collision with one or more of the boats would follow.

“Pandemonium appeared about to reign. The boats were very near. We were all greatly excited, for we realized there was danger of foundering. I jumped with my knife to free the fish. In the rush my foot slipped, and I went headlong on my mate, the knife flying overboard. Before anything could be done to free the albacore, we ran into a boat with a heavy crash, filling it with water, and upsetting most of their herring. The sudden resistance caused the albacore to spring again, when, to save ourselves from being spilled out, one of the men cut the line.

“Then the boats were baled out and work resumed. After the danger was over we all roared with laughter, scream after scream.

“The freed albacore paraded all around the harbor that day, jumping out of the water dozens of times with our line still attached to him.

“Seeing so many around, we decided to try for another. The fishermen, however, hesitated about supplying us with bait, fearing a repetition of the peril if we hooked another. After coaxing, we got what we wanted and started off again, throwing herrings as we went. When we thought ourselves well out we stopped to make ready for another strike.

“I stood up and threw out a herring. In a moment it was grabbed. Then the baited hook went over, was seized in a trice, and once more we had a fish. This second fellow was even more lively than the first, and his rushing and jumping was something wonderful to witness. He began pulling us off at once. To make his speed less we crossed our oars and held back water, which acted like a drag. Suddenly like the other, he turned at right angles and led us off in the new direction, fully ten minutes. Then he headed for the boats—mischief in his eye. We were now threatened with mishap worse than before, for the boats were by this time deeply loaded. What was to be done? He made another leap at this juncture, falling more clumsily than before. He was weakening! The men in the boats were now gesticulating and yelling for us to set him free. But we were growing hopeful as the speed of the boat grew perceptibly less. Soon we were able to gather in line to within a few fathoms of him. Within 150 yards of the boats he stopped short. We hauled up. What a beauty! Ten feet long, and weighing over 600 pounds. Three cheers were given as with a rope through his gills we towed him to the beach. We gave him to the men whose herrings we had spilled. Surely a royal sport. The equal of any fishing on the Pacific Coast.”

Port Morien is reached by the Sydney and Louisbourg Railway, a line running east to the coast, and then south to Louisbourg. The little town on the coast has a harbor, breakwater, excellent beach, and a considerable fish industry. It also has valuable coal deposits.

The Mira River district, half-way down the coast towards Louisbourg, abounds in picturesque views; and a journey over the beautiful river, with its remarkable clear water, is a veritable treat. An old French shipyard was once here, some remains of which are still visible; and the hulls of many small craft may be seen below water. The course leads through a ravine that is sheltered from the sun for most of the day, the coves and small headlands of which give many pretty views. Pleasant fishing streams and brooks empty themselves along the course of the Mira River, and numerous evidences of the early French days are seen as the upper waters are reached. Pleasant islands, also, vary the way, some of them in picturesque clusters. A number of inviting-looking bays and several villages are passed, and as Marion Bridge is gained the country becomes more hilly and varied. Salmon River, which empties into the Mira, is a favorite fishing stream, and, in addition, it offers many beautiful views. Near the head of Mira River is Victoria Bridge, from which pleasant drives may be taken to Gaberouse on the bay of that name, to Framboise, and to Fourché, all quiet fishing villages remote from travel highways, and on that account interesting to see.

When the Treaty of Utrecht gave France the right to hold and fortify Cape Breton, the name of the Island became L’Isle Royale, and choice of a place was soon made for the erection of a stronghold or fortress to maintain possession of this commanding approach to her vast inland territory. Havre a l’Anglois was the place selected, and its name was changed to Louisbourg in honor of the French monarch of that time, Louis XIV. The history of this interesting place was for many years the history of the whole island.

Work on the fortifications of Louisbourg was commenced in the early part of the eighteenth century. It continued for over twenty years, and the whole defensive system was planned by Vauban, the great French engineer. So strong was the place made that it became known as the Dunkirk of America. Towards the middle of the century the population of Louisbourg had increased to 4000, and it was rapidly becoming a place of great importance. Islands in the harbor were strongly fortified to command the water approach, while on the land the solid fortification walls, over ten feet thick and more than thirty feet high, protected by a great ditch with earthworks, glacis, bastions and citadel, all united to form an almost impregnable position. The approaches could be swept by gun fire from nearly 150 cannon.

It was not long before the British colonists of New England took alarm at the construction of such formidable works in a place where they could be used as a basis of operations against them; a plan for attacking the fortress by volunteers from Massachusetts, Connecticut, Rhode Island and New Hampshire was agreed upon, and a strong expedition left Nantasket for Cape Breton waters.

From the very first, success attended the efforts of the Colonials; and after many spirited attacks, the place, though ably defended by the French, fell before the continued assault. This was in 1745. Three years later Cape Breton and its great fortress of Louisbourg were given back to France by the Treaty of Aix-la-Chapelle.

But there were to be other struggles between France and England for supremacy in North American waters, and it was inevitable that Louisbourg would again be attacked; and so in another ten years a British fleet assembled in Gabarus Bay to the south of Louisbourg, and another great struggle ensued. Boscawen, Amherst and Wolfe took part in this assault; and the place was again ably defended by the French, this time under the gallant de Drucour, who was able to direct the fire of over two hundred cannon against the invaders—so much had the defenses been strengthened. The formerly successful plans of the Colonials were again followed, and, as before, success came to the invaders, and Louisbourg fell with immense stores and munitions of war. A strong naval station being in existence by this time in Halifax, it was decided to totally destroy the fortifications of Louisbourg, and accordingly the whole of the defenses were demolished by an engineer corps from England, sent out for this purpose. Shortly before the opening of the American War of Revolution, Britain’s conquest of all Upper Canada was confirmed by treaty, and peaceful development of Cape Breton has since ensued.

Louisbourg, thus interesting historically, is conveniently reached from Sydney by rail. It has a pleasant harbor, free from winter ice, and is a fairly busy little shipping port. The site of the old fortress is at Point Rochefort a few miles distant from the railway station; but from first leaving the train, evidences of Louisbourg’s former greatness may be seen, and relics are in main of the houses in the village. Cannon balls are still found in the surrounding fields, and many of the houses contain stone from the demolished walls of the fortress. The situations of the bastions may still be traced, and some of the casemates used for sheltering the women and children from gun fire during the attacks are now used as shelters by flocks of sheep. That women can rise to any height when emergency demands, is shown by the incident remembered of Madame de Drucour, wife of the French Governor in the second siege, who with her own hands fed the cannon with powder and balls.

No systematic exploration of the ruins has yet been attempted. The graveyard, too, where French, English and Colonial dead lie in hundreds, rests unmarked by stone of any kind. There is a general monument, however, erected on the very spot where the keys of the fortress were handed to General Pepperell when the fortress fell before Colonial arms. It was erected by the Society of Colonial Wars, and bears the simple inscription, ‘To Our Heroic Dead.’

Cod fishing was formerly carried on extensively from Louisbourg. Several of the old-time inhabitants owned thirty or forty vessels each.

There are several small fishing settlements in the neighborhood to which driving excursions may be made, and in summer time a pleasant sailing trip may be taken to several villages on Gabarus Bay to the south.

Leaving the South Shore to be visited from its most convenient centre, St. Peters, the town of Baddeck may next be chosen as a favorable place from which to view the central districts of the Island, as well as those lying along the upper east and west coasts. It will be remembered that steamers leave Sydney for east coast points, and Mulgrave for places on the west coast; and these trips are both enjoyable on fine summer days, affording as they do pleasant views of many a quaint little harbor and village. But for a thorough and intimate acquaintance with the beautiful island scenery, driving trips and walks should be taken from Baddeck, Whycocomagh and Mabou. Baddeck is easily reached from Sydney by Intercolonial Railway to Grand Narrows or Iona, from which places the steamer _Blue Hill_ connects with incoming trains. Baddeck may also be reached by steamer from Sydney.

The town of Baddeck is a pleasant little centre from which to see much of the surrounding country; in addition, it is in itself a homelike and quiet resort where enjoyable days of rest may be spent, varied by drives and walks, and the comings and goings of the several steamers that make this a place of call. It is a fine place for boating and sailing, and it is one of the centres that most tourists prefer, quiet and tranquil, but not deserted, and where some social pleasures with other visitors may be enjoyed. It is undoubtedly one of the best centres from which to see characteristic Cape Breton scenery. The town is on a bay harbor of the upper Bras d’Or Lake, about midway between the northern outlet to the Atlantic and the southern reach that ends in Whycocomagh Bay, being about twenty miles or more from each place.

There are some beautifully-placed bungalows along the shore, one of the number belonging to George Kennan, where that _litterateur_ and energetic traveller may be seen gardening in his moments of leisure.

On a beautiful estate of a thousand acres, not far from Baddeck, the eminent scientist and inventor, Dr. Alexander Graham Bell, has his summer home. Wherever the telephone has reached, Dr. Bell’s name is known; and that is tantamount to saying he is one of the best-known men of the world. Dr. Bell is the exemplar of the scientific inventor, the type that builds on sound knowledge, rational induction and logical experiment, building up patiently and through years of toil and diligent application, step by step, a scientific edifice that would once have been deemed a daring conception of an imaginative mind. More fortunate than other inventors, who, like the alchemists of old, have toiled without rest or intermission—and the fruits of whose labors have been denied them—Dr. Bell has reaped the reward due to an honored member of that profession which advances the progress of civilization by bounds of a thousand years at a time; and here in Beinn Bhreagh, or “lovely mountain,” he lives a life that is one of enjoyment—although not one of ease in the sense that he “does nothing.”

The estate is one that may be termed a perfect heaven for the absorbed worker in scientific, literary or other mental effort requiring surroundings favorable for concentration of thought. Here with machine and wood-working shops, electrical laboratory, erecting places and store houses for aeroplanes, wharves, shelter houses and lake for testing hydroplanes, the busy inventor works away a good part of the year when not at his Washington home.

Dr. Bell also gives time to scientific stock-farming, and keeps elaborate records of the excellent results that are gained from time to time. He has a competent staff of workers, all housed in the midst of ideal surroundings on his estate.

The drives about Beinn Bhreagh are exceedingly lovely, and the ever-changing water view is a continual source of delight. “Surprise View,” well above the level of the lake, has been well-named, for in following the winding woodland road a glorious panoramic scene of great beauty suddenly springs into view as if by magic.

A fine observation tower crowns the heights over all. From it an unsurpassed view may be had of ocean, lake, woodland crest, high mountain and pastoral valley.

The natural beauties of the neighborhood are truly remarkable. Even the farms on the western or greater channel, facing Boularderie, are beautifully situated on the heights, with picturesque ravines and dells, and lovely little brooks of crystal that flow along shady ways to the lake far below.

The whole wide world possesses few nobler views than that seen from the living rooms and porches of the Beinn Bhreagh home. It is an inspiring prospect, beautiful each morning as the sun illumines the new continents and mountain ranges of cloudland; and lovely by night when under the glorious tranquility of the stars, the moon and her handmaidens, the fleecy clouds, weave arabesques of unparalleled splendor.

“White clouds, whose shadows haunt the deep.
Light mists, whose soft embraces keep
The sunshine on the hills asleep!

* * * * *

O shapes and hues, dim beckoning through
Yon mountain gaps, my longing view
Beyond the purple and the blue.

* * * * *

I read each misty mountain sign,
I know the voice of wave and pine,
And I am yours, and ye are mine.

* * * * *

Life’s burdens fall, its discords cease,
I lapse into the glad release
Of nature’s own exceeding peace.”

A favorite drive is that from Baddeck to the upper waters of the Baddeck River, and also by way of St. Ann’s to the North River. It was at St. Ann’s that Nicholas Denys had one of his fortified posts in early days. The river scenery is everywhere charming, with pretty brooks, green woodland, banks of ferns, and clustering patches of wild flowers. At St. Ann’s and North River the water views are very choice, and the drive is a constant succession of delights. There is a grand side to the scenery of this district, for the mighty hills have been riven asunder in many places, and romantic gorges are seen from numerous places on the way. Indian Brook, with precipitous banks, and rocky waterfall, is a delightful scene.

The little places on the coast road to Ingonish are far remote from travel routes, and they are full of interest. The scenes are extremely bold and striking, and by some are thought to resemble the features of Norway. Cap Enfumé, commonly called “Old Smoky” on account of its almost perpetual cap of mist, is a bold object in the view, for it towers up almost perpendicularly for some twelve hundred feet. This cape has been termed one of the eastern bulwarks of North America, where the mighty deep lashed into fury by the eastern tempests, thunders in vain against this eternal rampart.

One of the finest panoramic views, and innumerable others at close range, may be seen at and around Ingonish. Mountains, islands, beautiful bays, nestling villages and glorious air are here. Walks and excursions on foot and by boat may be had in many directions, and the beauties of the place need fear comparison with no other district. The descent on the other side is believed to be one of the sights of the Maritime Provinces. The village on the broad beach, the three harbors of Ingonish, the picturesque lighthouse, beautiful Ingonish Island, with its Sentinel Rock, and the far away Cape North range of mountains, make a picture of superb beauty. Franey’s Chimney itself is no inconspicuous object, being nearly 1400 feet high. A French cruiser once went ashore not far from Money Point, and active tides were wont to throw up gold coins from the wreck on to the strand. For some years people used to go gold fishing, with long poles having the ends daubed with pitch to which the coins adhered. Ingonish was known in French days as Inganische, and relics of those days may still be found. There is excellent bathing at Ingonish and it is a splendid place for a summer vacation of a restful kind. Neil’s Harbor, Aspy Bay and Cape North are usually reached by steamer, and inland from these places will be found unexplored land where caribou and bear are still found. This whole area, including Bay St. Lawrence, is beautiful, and destined to become more and more frequented as hotels are built and roads and other facilities are improved; and in due time a railway will doubtless skirt the coast.

Out in the Atlantic in the direction of Newfoundland, about 15 miles north-east of Cape North, is the rocky island of St. Paul’s. It is right in the highway of ocean travel to and from the Gulf of St. Lawrence. Many wrecks have happened here, with the loss of thousands of lives. A hundred years ago as seamen approached the Island, they used to keep a look-out for the sight of the immense flocks of sea-fowl known as the great auk. These birds, now extinct, used to keep inshore; and never ventured out to sea. They were thus a sure indication of the proximity of land. They were so innocent that sailors could draw near and capture them by the boat-load. They were about as large as a goose, with short wings, coal black head and back, white beneath, and a milk-white spot under the right eye. Of negligible value in those days, a stuffed specimen of the great auk to-day is worth fifteen hundred dollars. The island has now lost most of its dangers, for the sailor of to-day sees the bright flashes from the lighthouse when nearly twenty miles out at sea, while in thick weather he is warned by the fog-gun. A splendid series of drives may be taken from Baddeck, by way of Hunter’s Mountain, and through the Wagamatcook or Middle River district, by Lake O’Law, to Margaree Forks and Margaree Harbor on the west coast. No scenery can charm more than this—it is delightful. The Middle River waters are exceedingly pretty, the valley is a beautiful one, and the pastoral scenes are as fresh and enjoyable as can be. There is a comfortable and homelike hostelry in this district. The Margaree River, a splendid salmon stream, is full of romantic interest, for it affords a constant succession of charming views, and here, too, everything is fresh and smiling. None may pass through such spots without enjoying to the full that feeling of exhilaration that accompanies the sight of such a wealth of all that is beautiful in nature.

The drive may be prolonged to Cheticamp, by putting up overnight at places between Baddeck, Middle River, Margaree, etc. It is an Acadian fishing village, the inhabitants of which have lived their simple lives for more than two centuries undisturbed by all that goes on in the outer world. The interior country is beautiful, and is much diversified by streams of the clearest water. This, too, although remote, is a favorite spot for the nature-lover who would see the quiet life of the people in such far-away settlements. There is much that is picturesque in the region of the hilly Cheticamp valley, and it is a district that will also be opened up in due time on account of the gold and other minerals that have been found there.

The return to Baddeck may be made by way of Inverness, Strathlorne, Lake Ainslie, Mabou and Port Hood, in which event it is not much out of the way to include Whycocomagh in the circuit. Or the journey may temporarily end at Whycocomagh, and that place be chosen as a centre from which to see the surrounding country, without the necessity of returning to Baddeck. As there is a steamer from Baddeck to Whycocomagh, and as it is a very enjoyable trip, made pleasant by the fine scenery on the way, many may prefer to see the east coast and central districts from Baddeck, and then view the west coast, middle-west and south-west districts from Whycocomagh.

The scenery in and around Whycocomagh is very beautiful, and its picturesque bay has been called the “Naples of America.” The country round about is most varied, and from the top of Salt Mountain a splendid view is commanded; nor is it necessary to climb that height unless so disposed, for the scenery by the shores of the bay is exceedingly fine. Whycocomagh is an ideal centre for boating and canoeing, and here, as at Baddeck, splendid opportunities exist for enjoyable cruises by motor-boat. There is bathing also, and fishing; and many pleasant days may be spent at this peaceful little resort.

Port Hood, Mabou and Lake Ainslie are all within convenient reach by carriage. Port Hood has coal mines, a safe harbor, and is the centre of a good farming district. Mabou is one of Cape Breton’s most characteristic little places, and the scenery all through this neighborhood is charming. The town itself is very quaint and enjoyable, while the river and woodland walks and drives are all excellent. There is a very comfortable little hotel here, and a restful vacation may well be spent in this pleasant place as a centre for a series of quiet excursions in quest of nature’s beauties. The Trout River and Lake Ainslie are also good objectives for drives and rambles, for the scenery in this region is full of charm.

Returning to Whycocomagh, and taking the steamer to Baddeck, and through the Bras d’Or Lake to St. Peter’s Canal at its southern outlet, a stay may be made in quiet St. Peter’s, the Port Toulouse of olden days, to enjoy its calm and tranquil summer life. This place was formerly known as Port Toulouse and was one of the fortified trading stations founded by N. Denys. It may be well to note here that several places on this coast, though still retaining their French names, are now exclusively peopled by the Scotch. While the scenery of the south coast districts does not compare with that of other parts of the island, the neighborhood of St. Peter’s is a thoroughly pleasant one. From here excursions may be made to the beautiful island-studded body of water known as Loch Lomond, to L’Ardoise and also to Arichat, Petit de Grat, and D’Escousse, on the island known as Isle Madame. Here the visitor will find himself in another world—the Acadian world of long ago; and the quaint life so different from that of a few hundred miles south cannot fail to make a lasting impression on the minds of all that sojourn for a while in these remote little outposts.

The return to Point Tupper and Mulgrave may be made either by rail or steamer.

There are splendid fishing rivers in Cape Breton, and fine trout streams are everywhere. Hunting, and shooting of wild birds, in season is excellent, too. Particulars relating to all Cape Breton outdoor sports will be found in the Chapter “Where to Go.”

_Where to Go—Recommended Places_

The choice of a vacation place suited to individual requirements is a matter of considerable importance, and for those planning to visit a country that is new to them, a brief description of the merits of various places will be very helpful. The amusements and recreations of each district are here given concisely. A preliminary study of this chapter will enable visitors to make intelligent choice of a locality best suited to their needs; and full particulars of any place under consideration may be read in the detailed description of the district finally chosen.

There are, of course, hundreds of delightful spots where happy vacations may be spent if the visitor has no preference for any particular recreation. As is well known, however, some prefer the shore, while others like the interior life by woodland and stream. Others again are happiest when in or near some fairly busy town centre, where some luxuries and a social life may be enjoyed. There are others who prefer the simple and inexpensive life of the quiet little village resort, and others yet who like the life of a fashionable watering place. Then those who delight in yachting, boating, canoeing, and all the pleasures of outdoor life, as well as fishing, etc., have their preferences; and the object of this chapter is to afford a ready choice from those places exactly suited to particular requirements.

After the visitor has become familiar with the attractions of the neighborhood selected, by actual residence there, he will be able to explore in every direction; and in this way many a charming place will be discovered that has in it the something for which he has always longed—the life, the atmosphere so difficult to describe and which appeal direct to the heart in some unexplained way.

It is so well understood that visitors come to the Maritime Provinces for summer pleasures—and not to make a display of dress as at Atlantic City and similar resorts—that all who wish to do so may wear plain and sensible attire, and be as unconventional as they please. Of course in a few centres, such as Quebec, Murray Bay, etc., fashionable costumes are in evidence; but even in these places plain and sensible costumes do not call for remark; and while it is not necessary to avoid the best hotels where richer people congregate, there are always other comfortable hotels and stopping-places where people of moderate means may live more quietly and be just as happy.

Those who make a short stay in any one place will have little time for social life; but, after the day’s pleasure is over, pleasant social intercourse may be enjoyed—in all but the smallest places—with those who are sojourning in the same locality. In the larger centres social life is quite an enjoyable feature of the summer vacation, and here, too, visitors mingle on the porches, etc. at night, and pass many pleasant hours in discussing the scenery and other features of the district. If making a stay of weeks or months at any one place, it is a good plan to have introductions to some of its leading people, as in this way many delightful hours will be spent in pleasant society. Canadian people are very hospitable, as a rule, and in many places of small and medium size, visitors will frequently be asked to participate in tennis, boating and driving, etc., as soon as they have settled down in summer quarters. In all places of any pretensions as summer resorts, golf, tennis, bathing, etc., are provided by the management of the principal stopping-places, and in such resorts the visitor enjoys such recreation without having to await an invitation from residents—as must necessarily be the case in small places where no public facilities of the kind are provided.

Where an asterisk * is inserted before the name of a place or district, under any heading such as “Historic Interest,” “Summer Vacation Life,” “Yachting,” “Canoeing,” etc., it denotes a place of commanding excellence for the enjoyment of that particular interest.

_Places of Historic Interest_:

*Quebec, Tadousac, St. John, Halifax, Annapolis Valley, Annapolis
Royal, Louisbourg.

_Places that are Centres for the Enjoyment of Beautiful Scenery_:

*Quebec, *Murray Bay (via Riviere Ouelle), *Tadousac (via Riviere du
Loup), Bic, Metis, *Causapscal, *Matapedia, Bathurst, Newcastle,
Chatham, *Fredericton, *St. John, Montague River (P.E.I.), *Truro,
*Wentworth Valley, *Halifax, *Chester, *Baddeck, St. Ann’s, *Ingonish,
Mabou, *Whycocomagh.

_Places that are Centres for Romantic and Interesting Country_:

All of those in the preceding division, and Riviere du Loup,
Campbellton, Dalhousie, *Charlo, Shelburne, Antigonish, Guysboro,
Sydney, Middle River, *Margaree River, Cheticamp.

_Watering Places that are well frequented and where some life is going on, suited for those who like a little gaiety_:

*Murray Bay, *Tadousac. (For those who like life in cities, *Quebec,
*St. John and *Halifax may be here included.)

_Watering Places of smaller size, where the usual quiet life of the small resort may be enjoyed_:

Riviere du Loup (Fraserville), Cacouna, Kamouraska, Bic, Rimouski,
*Little Metis, Dalhousie, *Charlo, Jacquet River, Bathurst, Newcastle,
Chatham, *Rothesay, *Fredericton, *Charlottetown, Summerside,
*Chester, Antigonish, *Baddeck, Grand Narrows, *Ingonish, Montmorency.

_Watering Places of the smallest size, where very quiet days may be spent_:

*Causapscal, Folleigh, Pugwash, Pictou, Shediac, Tignish, Alberton,
Tracadie, Souris, *Montague, Georgetown, Murray Harbor, St. Peters,
Cheticamp, *Middle River, *Margaree Forks, *Mabou, *Chateau Richer.

_Small Places in which, although water is near, country features predominate_:

Montmagny, *Causapscal, *Jacquet River, *Folleigh, *Hampton, *Sussex,
Petitcodiac, Boiestown, Doaktown, Blackville, Hunter River,
*Bradalbane.

Yachting waters of most enjoyable character are found at Quebec and all St. Lawrence River resorts; and at *Campbellton, *Dalhousie, *Bathurst and other Bay of Chaleur points, including several places on the Gaspé peninsula; *Newcastle and *Chatham, on Miramichi Bay; *St. John and on the Lower St. John River; Charlottetown, Summerside, Murray Harbor, Georgetown and Souris on Prince Edward Island; Pugwash, Pictou and Mulgrave, in Northern Nova Scotia; *Halifax, St. Margaret’s Bay, *Chester and *Shelburne, on the South Shore; Guysboro and other harbors on the south-eastern shore; and on *Bras d’Or Lakes, *Baddeck, *Whycocomagh, *Sydney, St. Ann’s Bay and several harbors of the Cape Breton coast.

Motor-boating may always be enjoyed where good yachting waters are found, and hence all the places just enumerated as most suitable for yachting are also well adapted for motor-boating. The motor-boat being independent of the wind has an increased range of action, and on that account additional places are now named from which cruises may be made as a centre. As motor-boats are also able to move in more restricted water than the wind-propelled yacht, additional river places having pleasant cruising waters are here added, such as the *Saguenay, *Miramichi, *Fredericton, Kennebecasis River, the lower waters of the larger Prince Edward Island rivers, Mira River, Canso Strait, the splendid harbors and rivers east of Halifax, Minas Basin and on the waters of several of the large interior lakes accessible from or contiguous to convenient towns of fair size.

Quiet waters for pleasant boating amidst enjoyable surroundings will be found at every one of the numerous St. Lawrence River resorts from Quebec to Matane, on all of the fine rivers in the four provinces, in the Bay of Chaleur from *Matapedia, *Campbellton and *Dalhousie along the south shore of the Gaspé Peninsula as far as *Gaspé Bay, along the southern and eastern shores of Chaleur, along the whole interesting water front of the Northumberland Straits, and along the Bay of Fundy shore. As a matter of fact, good rowing waters are found within convenient reach of nearly every station on the Intercolonial Route, and all the places named in connection with yachting and motor-boating will be found to have suitable boating waters nearby.

One of the most enjoyable and healthful recreations is that of canoeing; and, as is well known, the canoeing waters of Quebec and the Maritime Provinces are without a rival in any part of the world. A whole lifetime of summers may be spent on these beautiful waters without exhausting the novelty and interest of scene that everywhere abounds. Every river of the four provinces has its canoeing attractions; and for a vacation of perfect delight no better plan can be followed than that of shipping a canoe over the Intercolonial Railway to the chosen centre of operations, and from there explore the district, to become acquainted with all its beauty and charm. All along the St. Lawrence River, and in its numerous tributaries, splendid canoeing waters are found. The great *St. John River, with its sparkling tributaries flowing through unfrequented woodland depths, is a superb highway full of romantic interest. The *Miramichi, *Nepisiguit, *Matapedia, *Tobique, *Restigouche, *Temiscouata and a host of other rivers in Nova Scotia (including Cape Breton) and Prince Edward Island give such a wealth of delightful canoeing waters that a choice is almost embarrassing. Nor must the smaller streams be passed by without notice, for in these also are found the wooded islands, murmuring rapids and sylvan retreats dear to the hearts of those who “paddle their own canoe.” There are hundreds of such places in the Maritime Provinces, and consequently a study of this book as a whole is recommended in order to make intelligent choice of that locality best suited to the tastes of the individual canoeist.

Tennis courts will be found in nearly all places larger than the small village of a few hundred inhabitants. In any place frequented by summer visitors the Tennis Clubs make provision for summer membership of visitors on payment of a small fee. In many places where no regular club has been established the privileges of the court are extended to visitors. In all of the summer resorts of the lower St. Lawrence excellent tennis facilities are provided, and this is true of the resorts of the provinces generally. In the small and restful stopping-places not yet known as resorts, but to which some summer visitors find their way, tennis courts are generally found—so universal has this healthful outdoor recreation become. It should not be forgotten that all through the Maritime Provinces the summer climate is so temperate that full enjoyment of tennis and outdoor sports brings with it none of the enervating fatigue inseparable from such recreation in warmer climes.

Golf links are not as commonly found as tennis courts, but nearly all summer hotels and resorts, other than the smallest, have made provision for the enjoyment of this exhilarating game. Some of the courses in the Maritime Provinces are the finest to be found anywhere; and there the game may be enjoyed with all the accompaniment of beautiful scenery, bracing air and romantic surroundings. Eastern Canada is the land of summer sports, where generous physical exercise may be taken without lassitude or undue fatigue; and in a game such as golf, where much ground must be covered, a cool climate greatly enhances the enjoyment of outdoor exercise.

The bathing waters of the provinces offer various temperatures to suit different classes of bathers. Leaving out of consideration river and lake bathing, the sea-bathing waters will be found to offer a considerable range of temperature. The inner waters of the *Bay of Chaleur, and the various places along the *Gaspé Peninsula, along the Northumberland Strait shore, and those of *Prince Edward Island generally, will be found best suited to the average bather. Many go to the St. Lawrence River resorts between Murray Bay and Little Métis because there the water is warmest. This is not river bathing as some might suppose, for even at Murray Bay resorts one bathes in the briny water of old ocean. As the St. Lawrence River reaches the Gulf it broadens to ocean proportions, and at *Little Métis and *Matane, and along the Gaspé shores, bathing in pleasantly-warmed sea water may be enjoyed. Prince Edward Island enjoys a reputation for pleasant bathing at a moderate temperature, but as the outer waters near Cape Breton are reached, an increasing coolness is noticeable, until the outer Atlantic shore is gained, and here, of course, the tidal water is the coldest, and best suited for those of robust physique. West and east of Halifax, however, there are numerous inner waters of lagoon or almost land-locked character, and many outer bay waters, too, where the sun warms the sand shoals at low tide, and where, consequently, warmer bathing may be enjoyed than that found on the open or outlying beaches.

The fishing waters of Eastern Canada are renowned all the world over. Who has not heard of the *Restigouche, *Miramichi, *St. John, *Nepisiguit, *Matapedia, *Tobique, *Upsalquitch, *Patapedia, *Godbout, *Bonaventure, *Cascapedia, *Margaree, and all that immense host of other rivers of various sizes that so liberally water the Maritime Provinces, and afford fishing sport of the best kind for those who love to catch the kingly salmon and princely trout.

The power of wealth is felt in the angling world, just as in other departments of life, and hence the most of the best fishing rights have been bought up by wealthy men and reserved for their own use and that of their friends and summer guests. But there are many places where the best of fishing may be had by previous arrangement, and other places, such as the *Charlo River in New Brunswick, where royal fishing may be enjoyed without permit other than the usual fishing license. The best plan is to read through “Summer Provinces by the Sea” so as to become acquainted with the country as a whole, and, after a district has been chosen, a letter of inquiry to the nearest Intercolonial Station Agent will elicit the latest and most accurate information on the fishing of the neighborhood. The “Fishing and Hunting” booklet issued by the Intercolonial Railway contains much valuable information relating to the fishing streams of the four provinces. This booklet will be forwarded from the offices of the Intercolonial Railway, Moncton, N.B., on application.

The joy of pitching a tent, and of living next to nature on the shore of the deep Atlantic, is a fascination that must lure increasing thousands from the crowded and stifling cities; and for those who desire more of the comforts of civilization, with a life as near nature as possible, there are bungalows by lake, river and sea where deep draughts of cool and invigorating air may be enjoyed on porches, or in living rooms that may be thrown open at will to admit every health-giving breeze that blows.