Chapter I: Front Matter

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TEN YEARS IN WASHINGTON:

OR,

INSIDE LIFE AND SCENES

IN

OUR NATIONAL CAPITAL

=As a Woman Sees Them.=

EMBRACING

A FULL ACCOUNT OF THE MANY MARVELS AND INTERESTING
SIGHTS OF WASHINGTON; OF THE DAILY LIFE AT THE WHITE HOUSE, BOTH PAST
AND PRESENT; OF THE WONDERS AND INSIDE WORKINGS OF ALL OUR
GOVERNMENT DEPARTMENTS; AND DESCRIPTIONS AND REVELATIONS
OF EVERY PHASE OF POLITICAL, PUBLIC, AND
SOCIAL LIFE AT THE NATION’S CAPITAL.

BY MARY CLEMMER,

AUTHOR OF “MEMORIALS OF ALICE AND PHŒBE CARY,” “A WOMAN’S LETTERS FROM
WASHINGTON,” ETC., ETC.

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TO WHICH IS ADDED A FULL ACCOUNT OF

THE LIFE AND DEATH OF PRESIDENT JAMES A. GARFIELD,

BY J. L. SHIPLEY, A. M.

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FULLY ILLUSTRATED
=With a Portrait of the Author on Steel, and Forty-Eight fine
Engravings on Wood.=

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[SOLD BY SUBSCRIPTION ONLY.]

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HARTFORD, CONN.:
THE HARTFORD PUBLISHING COMPANY.
EXCELSIOR PUBLISHING CO., CHICAGO, ILL.
OHIO PUBLISHING CO., CLEVELAND, OHIO.

1882.

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Entered according to Act of Congress, in the year 1881, by

THE HARTFORD PUBLISHING CO.,

In the office of the Librarian of Congress at Washington.

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1. FINE STEEL-PLATE PORTRAIT OF THE AUTHOR, [Frontispiece.]
2. COLUMBIA SLAVE PEN, To face page 48
3. THE FREEDMAN’S SAVINGS BANK, 48
4. SMITHSONIAN INSTITUTE, 48
5. MAJOR L’ENFANT’S RESTING PLACE, 48
6. THE NATIONAL CAPITOL—WASHINGTON, 72
It covers more than three and a half acres. Over thirteen million
dollars have thus far been expended in its erection.
7. THE MARBLE ROOM—INSIDE THE CAPITOL—WASHINGTON, 95
8. THE SENATE CHAMBER—INSIDE THE CAPITOL—WASHINGTON, 98
9. THE HALL OF REPRESENTATIVES—INSIDE THE CAPITOL—WASHINGTON, 100
10. THE LADIES’ RECEPTION ROOM—INSIDE THE CAPITOL—WASHINGTON, 120
11. THE CENTRAL ROOM, CONGRESSIONAL LIBRARY—INSIDE THE 130
CAPITOL—WASHINGTON,
12. THE RED ROOM—INSIDE THE WHITE HOUSE—WASHINGTON, 169
13. THE CONSERVATORY—INSIDE THE WHITE HOUSE—WASHINGTON, 174
14. THE CABINET ROOM—INSIDE THE WHITE HOUSE—WASHINGTON, 238
15. THE BLUE ROOM—INSIDE THE WHITE HOUSE—WASHINGTON, 246
16. THE GREAT EAST ROOM—INSIDE THE WHITE HOUSE, WASHINGTON, 258
17. THE GREEN ROOM—INSIDE THE WHITE HOUSE—WASHINGTON, 258
18. UNITED STATES TREASURY—WASHINGTON, 284
19. MAKING MONEY—THE ROOM IN THE TREASURY BUILDING WHERE THE 319
GREENBACKS ARE PRINTED,
20. AMONG THE GREENBACKS—THE CUTTING AND SEPARATING ROOM IN THE 322
TREASURY BUILDING,
21. BURNT TO ASHES—THE END OF UNCLE SAM’S GREENBACKS, 337
The above is a graphic sketch of the destruction of the worn and
defaced currency constantly being redeemed by the Government,
which is here burned every day at 12 o’clock. On one occasion
considerably more than one hundred million dollars’ worth of
bonds and greenbacks were destroyed in this furnace, and the
burning of from fifty to seventy-five millions at a time is a
matter of ordinary occurrence.
22. THE NEW MARBLE CASH-ROOM, UNITED STATES TREASURY, 340
The most costly and magnificent room of its kind in the world.
23. COUNTING WORN AND DEFACED GREENBACKS AND DETECTING 354
COUNTERFEITS,
This room is in the Redemption Bureau, Treasury-Building. Over One
Hundred Thousand Dollars’ worth of Fractional Currency alone is
here daily received for redemption: out of which about Three
Hundred and Fifty Dollars’ worth of counterfeit money is
detected, stamped, and returned.
24. THE LOBBY OF THE SENATE—INSIDE THE CAPITOL—WASHINGTON, 382
25. DEAD-LETTER OFFICE, U. S. GENERAL POST-OFFICE—WASHINGTON, 398
26. THE MODEL-ROOM—PATENT OFFICE—WASHINGTON, 438
This room contains the fruits of the inventive genius of the whole
nation. More than 160,000 models are here deposited.
27. BLOOD-STAINED CONFEDERATE BATTLE-FLAGS, CAPTURED DURING THE 462
WAR,
Sketched by permission of the Government from the large collection
in possession of the War Department, at Washington.

1. Black Flag. 4. State and Regiment unknown. [Captured
at the Battle of Gettysburg, by the 60th
Regiment of New York Volunteers.]
2. Alabama Flag.
3. Palmetto Flag. 5. State Colors of North Carolina.

28. THE NEW BUILDING NOW BEING CONSTRUCTED FOR DEPARTMENTS OF 466
STATE, ARMY, AND NAVY—WASHINGTON,
29. THE MAIN HALL OF THE ARMY MEDICAL MUSEUM—WASHINGTON, 476
This Museum occupies the scene of the assassination of President
Lincoln, in Ford’s Theatre, which after that date became the
property of the Government. It contains a collection of upwards
of twenty thousand rare, curious and interesting objects,
surpassing any similar collection in the world. It is visited
annually by upwards of twenty-five thousand persons.
30. CURIOSITIES FROM THE ARMY MEDICAL MUSEUM, 482
31. A WITHERED ARM, 482
Skin, flesh, and bones complete. Amputated by a cannon-shot on the
battle-field of Gettysburg. The shot carried the severed limb up
into the high branches of a tree, where it was subsequently
found, completely air and sun-dried.
32. SKULL OF A MAN, 482
Who received an arrow-wound in the head, three gun-shot
flesh-wounds, one in the arm, another in the breast, and a third
in the leg. Seven days afterwards he was admitted to the
hospital at Fort Concha, Texas, (where he subsequently died,)
after having travelled above 160 miles on the barren plains,
mostly on foot.
33. APACHE INDIAN ARROW-HEAD, 482
Of soft hoop-iron. These arrows will perforate a bone without
causing the slightest fracture, where a rifle or musket-ball
will flatten; and will make a cut as clean as the finest
surgical instrument.
34. SKULL OF LITTLE BEAR’S SQUAW, 482
Perforated by seven bullet-holes. Killed in Wyoming Territory.
35. ALL THAT REMAINS ABOVE GROUND OF JOHN WILKES BOOTH, 482
Being part of the Vertebræ penetrated [A] by the bullet of Boston
Corbett. Strange freak of fate that the remains of Booth should
find a resting-place under the same roof, and but a few feet
from the spot where the fatal shot was fired.
36. SKULL OF A SOLDIER, 482
Wounded at Spottsylvania; showing the splitting of a
rifle-ball—one portion being buried deep in the brain, and the
other between the scalp and the skull. He lived twenty-three
days.
37. A SIOUX PAPPOOSE, 482
Or Indian infant, found in a tree near Fort Laramie, where it had
been buried (?) according to the custom of this tribe.
38. SKULL OF AN INDIAN, 482
Showing nine distinct sabre wounds.
39. “OLD PROBABILITIES’” INSTRUMENT ROOM, 504
Storm and Weather Signal Service Bureau—Washington.
40. TROPICAL FRUITS—INSIDE THE GOVERNMENT 545
CONSERVATORY—WASHINGTON,
41. THE DOME AND SPIRAL STAIRCASE; RARE PLANTS AND FLOWERS—INSIDE 546
THE GOVERNMENT CONSERVATORY—WASHINGTON,
42. TROPICAL PLANTS AND FLOWERS—INSIDE THE GOVERNMENT 548
CONSERVATORY—WASHINGTON,
43. THE VAN NESS MANSION, AND DAVY BURNS’ COTTAGE, 550
44. THE CAPITOL AS SEEN FROM PENNSYLVANIA AVE.—WASHINGTON, 550
45. VIEW OF THE “CITY OF THE SLAIN”—ARLINGTON, 582
The remains of over 8,000 soldiers, killed during the war, lie
buried in this Cemetery—the name, regiment, and date of death of
each is painted on a wooden head-board.
46. THE TOMB OF “THE UNKNOWN”—ARLINGTON, 586
Erected by the Government to the memory of Unknown Soldiers killed
during the War. It bears the following inscription:
“Beneath this stone
repose the bones of Two Thousand One Hundred and Eleven unknown
soldiers, gathered after the war,
from the fields of Bull Run and the _route_ to the Rappahannock.
Their remains could not be identified; but their names and deaths are
recorded in the archives of their country, and its grateful citizens
honor them as of their noble army of Martyrs. May they rest in peace!
September, A. D. 1866.”
47. PORTRAIT OF JAMES A. GARFIELD, THE MARTYR PRESIDENT, 588
Engraved from a recent photograph.
48. PORTRAIT OF MRS. JAMES A. GARFIELD, WIFE OF THE MARTYR 600
PRESIDENT,
Engraved from a recent photograph.

CONTENTS.

CHAPTER I.

FROM THE VERY BEGINNING. PAGE.

The Young Surveyor’s Dream—A Vision of the Future Capital—The
United States Government on Wheels—Ambitious Offers—The Rival
Rivers—Temporary Lodgings for Eleven Years—Old-Fashioned
Simplicity—A Great Man’s Modesty—Conflicting Claims—A
Convincing Fact—The Dreadful Quakers—A Condescending Party—A
Slight Amendment—An Old Bill Brought to Light Again—The Future
Strangely Foreshadowed—A Dinner of Some Consequence—How it was
Done—Really a Stranger—A Nice Proposal—Sweetening the Pill—A
“Revulsion of Stomach,” 21

CHAPTER II.

CROSS PURPOSES AND QUEER SPECULATIONS.

Born of Much Bother—Undefined Apprehensions—Debates on the Coming
City—Old World Examples—Sir James Expresses an Opinion—A Dream
of the Distant West—An Old-time Want—A Curious Statement of
Fact—Where is the Center of Population—An Important
Proclamation—Original Land Owners—Well-worn Patents—Getting on
with Pugnacious Planters—Obstinate David Burns—A “Widow’s Mite”
of Some Magnitude—How the Scotchman was Subjugated—A Rather
“Forcible Argument,” 31

CHAPTER III.

THE WORK BEGUN IN EARNEST.

Washington’s Faith in the Future—Mr. Sparks is “Inclined to
Think”—A Slight Miscalculation—Theoretical Spartans—Clinging to
Old World Glories—Jefferson Acts the Critic—He Communicates
Some Ideas—Models of Antiquity—Babylon Revived—Difficulty in
Satisfying a Frenchman’s Soul—The Man Who Planned the
Capital—Who Was L’Enfant?—His Troubles—His Dismissal—His
Personal Appearance, Old Age, Death, and Burial Place—His
Successor—A Magnificent Plan—A Record Which Can Never Perish—An
Overpaid Quaker—Jefferson Expresses His Sentiments—A Sable
Franklin—The Negro Engineer, Benjamin Bancker—A Chance for a
Monument, 38

CHAPTER IV.

OLD WASHINGTON.

How the City Was Built—“A Matter of Moonshine”—Calls for
Paper—Besieging Congressmen—How They Raised the Money—The
Government Requires Sponsors—Birth of the Nation’s
Capital—Seventy Years Ago in Washington—Graphic Picture of
Early Times—A Much-Marrying City—Unwashed Virginian
Belles—Stuck in the Mud—Extraordinary Religious Services, 51

CHAPTER V.

THE CAPITAL OF THE NATION.

Expectations Disappointed—Funds Low and People Few—Slow Progress
of the City—A Question of Importance Discussed—Generous
Proposition of George Washington—Faith Under
Difficulties—Transplanting an Entire College—An Old Proposition
in a New Shape—What Washington “Society” Lacks—Perils of the
Way—A Long Plain of Mud—Egyptian Dreariness—The End of an
Expensive Canal—The Water of Tiber Creek—Divided Allegiance of
Old—The Stirring of a Nation’s Heart—A Personal Interest, 62

CHAPTER VI.

THE WASHINGTON OF THE PRESENT DAY.

Hopes Realized—Washington in 1873—Major L’Enfant’s Dream—Old and
New—“Modern Improvements”—A City of Palaces—The Capital in all
its Glory—Traces of the War—Flowers on the Ramparts—Under the
Oaks of Arlington—Ten Years Ago—The Birth of a Century—The
Reign of Peace, 72

CHAPTER VII.

WHAT MADE NEW WASHINGTON.

Municipal Changes—Necessity of Reform—The “Organic Act”
Passed—Contest for the Governorship of Columbia District—Mr.
Henry D. Cooke Appointed—Board of Public Works
Constituted—Great Improvements Made—Opposition—The Board and
Its Work, 76

CHAPTER VIII.

BUILDING THE CAPITOL.

Various Plans for the Building—Jefferson Writes to the
Commissioners—“Poor Hallet” and His Plan—Wanton Destruction by
the British, A. D. 1814—The Site Chosen by Washington
Himself—Imposing Ceremonies at the Foundation—Dedicatory
Inscription on the Silver Plate—Interesting
Festivities—Extension of the Building—Daniel Webster’s
Inscription—His Eloquent and Patriotic Speech—Mistaken
Calculations—First Session of Representatives Sitting in “the
Oven”—Old Capitol Prison—Immense Outlay upon the Wings and
Dome—Compared with St. Peter’s and St. Paul’s—The Goddess of
Liberty—The Congressional Library—What Ought to be Done, 83

CHAPTER IX.

INSIDE THE CAPITOL.

A Visit to the Capitol—The Lower Hall—Its Cool
Tranquility—Artistic Treasures—The President’s and
Vice-President’s Rooms—The Marble Room—The Senate Chamber—“Men
I Have Known”—Hamlin—Foote—Foster—Wade—Colfax—Wilson—The
Rotunda—Great Historical Paintings—The Old Hall of
Representatives—The New Hall—The Speaker’s Room—Native Art—“The
Star of Empire”—A National Picture, 93

CHAPTER X.

OUTSIDE THE CAPITOL.

The Famous Bronze Doors—The Capitol Grounds—Statue of Washington
Criticised—Horace Greenough’s Defence of the Statue—Picturesque
Scenery Around the Capitol—The City and Suburbs—The Public
Reservation—The Smithsonian Institution—The Potomac and the
Hights of Arlington, 104

CHAPTER XI.

ART TREASURES OF THE CAPITOL.

Arrival of a Solitary Lady—“The Pantheon of America”—Il
Penserosa—Milton’s Ideal—Dirty Condition of the House of
Representatives—The Goddess of Melancholy—Vinnie Ream’s Statue
of Lincoln—Its Grand Defects—Necessary Qualifications for a
Sculptor—The Bust of Lincoln by Mrs. Ames—General Greene and
Roger Williams—Barbarous Garments of Modern Times—Statues of
Jonathan Trumbull and Roger Sherman—Bust of Kosciusko—Pulling
his Nose—Alexander Hamilton—Fate of Senator Burr—Statue of
Baker—His Last Speech Prophetic—The Glory of a Patriotic
Example—The Lesson which Posterity Learns—Horatio Stone, the
Sculptor—Neglected Condition of the Capitol Statuary—Curious
Clock—Grotesque Plaster Image of Liberty—Webster—Clay—Adams—The
Pantheon at Rome—The French Pantheon, 109

CHAPTER XII.

WOMEN WITH CLAIMS.

The Senate Reception-Room—The People who Haunt it—Republican
“Ladies in Waiting”—“Women with Claims”—Their Heroic
Persistency—A Widow and Children in Distress—Claim Agents—The
Committee of Claims—A Kind-Hearted Senator’s
Troubles—Buttonholing a Senator—A Lady of Energy—Resolved to
Win—An “Office Brokeress”—A Dragon of a Woman—A Lady who is
Feared if not Respected—Her Unfortunate Victims—Carrying “Her
Measure”—The Beautiful Petitioner—The Cloudy Side of Her
Character—Her Subtle Dealings—Her Successes, 120

CHAPTER XIII.

THE CONGRESSIONAL LIBRARY.

Inside the Library—The Librarian—Sketch of Mr. Spofford—How
Congressional Speeches are Manufactured—“Spofford” in
Congress—The Library Building—Diagram—Dimensions of the
Hall—The Iron Book Cases—The Law Library—Five Miles of Book
Shelves—Silent Study—“Abstracting” Books—Amusing Adventure—A
Senator in a Quandary—Making Love Under Difficulties—Library
Regulations—Privileged Persons—Novels and their Readers—Books
of Reference—Compared with the British Museum—Curious Old
Newspapers—Files of Domestic and Foreign Papers—One Hundred
Defunct Journals—An Incident of the War of 1814—Putting it to
the Vote—“Carried Unanimously”—35,000 Volumes
Destroyed—Treasurers of Art Consumed—The New Library—The Next
Appropriation, 127

CHAPTER XIV.

A VISIT TO THE NEW LAW LIBRARY.

How a Library was Offered to Congress—Mr. King’s Proposal—An Eye
to Theology—The Smithsonian Library Transferred—The Good Deeds
of Peter Force—National Documents—Eliot’s Indian Bible—Literary
Treasures—The Lawyers Want a Library for Themselves—The Finest
Law Library in the World—First Edition of Blackstone—Report of
the Trial of Cagliostro, Rohan and La Motte—Marie Antoinette’s
Diamond Necklace—A Long Life-Service—An Architect Buried
Beneath his own Design—“Underdone Pie-crust”—Reminiscences of
Daniel Webster and the Girard Will, 138

CHAPTER XV.

THE HEAVEN OF LEGAL AMBITION—THE SUPREME COURT ROOM.

Memories of Clay, Webster, and Calhoun—Legal Giants of the
Past—Stately Serenity of the Modern Court—“Wise Judgment and
Wine Dinners”—The Supreme Court in Session—Soporific
Influences—A Glimpse of the Veritable “Bench”—The Ladies’
Gallery—The Chief Justices of the Past—His
Apotheosis—Chief-Justice Chase—Black-Robed Dignitaries—An
Undignified Procession—The “Crier” in Court—Antique
Proclamation—The Consultation-Room—Gowns of Office—Reminiscence
of Judge McLean—“Uncle Henry and his Charge”—Fifty Years in
Office, 144

CHAPTER XVI.

THE “MECCA” OF THE AMERICAN.

The Center of a Nation’s Hopes—Stirring Reminiscences of the
Capitol—History Written in Stone—Patriotic Expression of
Charles Sumner—Building “for all Time”—“This our Fathers Did
for Us”—The Interest of Humanity—A Secret Charm for a
Thoughtful Mind—An Idea of Equality—The Destiny of the Stars
and Stripes—A Mother’s Ambition—The Dying Soldier, 148

CHAPTER XVII.

THE CAPITOL—MORNING SIGHTS AND SCENES.

The Capitol in Spring—A Magic Change—Arrival of Visitors—A New
Race—“Billing and Cooing”—Lovers at the Capitol—A Dream of
Perpetual Spring—Spending the Honeymoon in Washington—New
Edition of David Copperfield and Dora—“Very Young”—Divided
Affections: The New Bride—Jonathan and Jane—Memories of a
Wedding Dress—An Interview with a Bride—“Two Happy Idiots”—A
Walk in the City—President Grant—The Foreign Ambassadors—“Beau”
Hickman—An Erratic Genius—Walt Whitman the Poet—A “Loafer” of
Renown—Poets at Home—Piatt—Burroughs—Harriet Prescott
Spofford—Sumner and Chase—Tiresome Men—How to Love a Tree, 153

CHAPTER XVIII.

FAIR WASHINGTON—A RAMBLE IN EARLY SPRING.

Washington Weather—Sky Scenery—Professor Tyndall Expresses an
Opinion—A Picture of Beauty—Prejudiced Views—Birds of Rock
Creek—The Parsonage—A Scene of Tranquil Beauty—A Washington
May—Charms of the Season—Mowers at Work—The Public
Parks—Frolics of the Little Ones—Strawberry Festivals—“Flower
Gathering,” 162