Chapter II: Section XXIV: Excellent Ways for Feeding of Poultrey

[Index] THE TABLE

[Publisher's Advertising]

* * * * *
* * * *

_To the Right Honourable my _Lord Montague,_ My _Lord Lumley,_
and my _Lord Dormer;_ and to the Right worshipful Sir
_Kenelme Digby,_ so well known to this Nation for their
Admired Hospitalities._

_Right Honourable, and Right Worshipful_,

He is an Alien, a meer Stranger in _England_, that hath not been acquainted with your generous House-keepings; for my own part my more particular tyes of service to you my Honoured Lords, have built me up to the height of this Experience, for which this Book now at last dares appear to the World; those times which I tended upon your Honours were those Golden Days of Peace and Hospitality when you enjoyed your own, so as to entertain and releive others.

Right Honourable, and Right Worshipful, I have not only been an eye-witness, but interested by my attendance; so as that I may justly acknowledge those Triumphs and magnificent Trophies of Cookery that have adorned your Tables; nor can I but confess to the world, except I should be Guilty of the highest Ingratitude, that the only structure of this my Art and knowledge, I owed to your costs, generous and inimitable Epences; thus not only I have derived my experience, but your Country hath reapt the Plenty of your Humanity and charitable Bounties.

Right Honourable, and Right Worshipful, Hospitality which was once a Relique of the Gentry, and a known Cognizance to all ancient Houses, hath lost her Title through the unhappy and Cruel Disturbances of these Times, she is now reposing of her lately so alarmed Head on your beds of Honour: In the mean space that our English World may know the _Mecæna_'s and Patrons of this Generous Art, I have exposed this Volume to the Publick, under the Tuition of your Names; at whose Feet I prostrate these Endeavours, and shall for ever remain

_Your most humble devoted Servant._
_ROBERT MAY._

_From _Soleby_ in _Leicestershire_,
September 29. 1684._

_To the Master Cooks, and to such young Practitioners
of the Art of Cookery, to whom this Book may be useful._

To you first, most worthy Artists, I acknowledg one of the chief Motives that made me to adventure this Volume to your Censures, hath been to testifie my gratitude to your experienced Society; nor could I omit to direct it to you, as it hath been my ambition, that you should be sensible of my Proficiency of Endeavours in this Art. To all honest well intending Men of our Profession, or others, this Book cannot but be acceptable, as it plainly and profitably discovers the _Mystery_ of the _whole Art_; for which, though I may be _envied by some that only value their private Interests above Posterity, and the publick good_, yet God and my own Conscience would not permit me _to bury these my Experiences with my Silver Hairs in the Grave_: and that more especially, as the advantages of my Education hath raised me above the _Ambitions_ of others, in the converse I have had with other _Nations_, who in this _Art_ fall short of what I _have known experimented by you my worthy Country men_. Howsoever, the _French by their Insinuations, not without enough of Ignorance_, have bewitcht some of the _Gallants of our Nation_ with Epigram Dishes, smoakt rather than drest, so strangely to captivate the _Gusto_, their _Mushroom'd Experiences_ for _Sauce_ rather than _Diet_, for the generality howsoever called _A-la-mode_, not worthy of being taken notice on. As I live in _France_, and had the Language and have been an eye-witness of their _Cookeries_ as well, as a Peruser of their Manuscripts, and Printed _Authors_ whatsoever I found good in them, I have inserted in this _Volume_. I do acknowledg my self not to be a little beholding to the _Italian_ and _Spanish_ Treatises; though without my fosterage, and bringing up under the _Generosities_ and _Bounties of my Noble Patrons and Masters_, I could never have arrived to this _Experience_. To be confined and limited to the narrowness of a Purse, is to want the _Materials_ from which the _Artist_ must gain his knowledge. Those _Honourable Persons_, _my Lord_ Lumley, and others, with whom I have spent a part of my time, were such whose generous cost never weighed the Expence, so that they might arrive to that right and high esteem they had of their _Gusto's_. Whosoever peruses this _Volume_ shall find it amply exemplified in _Dishes_ of such high prices, which only these _Noblesses Hospitalities_ did reach to: I should have sinned against their (to be perpetuated) Bounties, if I had not set down their several varieties, that the _Reader_ might be as well acquainted with what is extraordinary, as what is ordinary in this _Art_; as I am truly sensible, that some of those things that I have set down will amaze a not thorow-paced _Reader_ in the _Art of Cookery_, as they are Delicates, never till this time made known to the World.

_Fellow Cooks_, that I might give a testimony to my _Countrey_ of the _laudableness of our Profession_, that I might encourage young Undertakers to make a Progress in the _Practice of this Art_, I have laid open these Experiences, as I was most unwilling to hide my Talent, but have ever endeavoured to do good to others; I acknowledge that there hath already been _several Books publisht_, and amongst the rest some out of the _French_, for ought I could perceive to very little purpose, _empty and unprofitable Treatises_, of as little use as some _Niggards Kitchens_, which the _Reader_ in respect of the confusion of the Method, or barrenness of those _Authors_ experience, hath rather been puzled then profited by; as those already extant Authors have trac't but one common beaten Road, repeating for the main what others have in the same homely manner done before them: It hath been my task to denote some _new Faculty or Science_, that others have not yet discovered; this the _Reader_ will quickly discern by those _new Terms of Art_ which he shall meet withal throughout this _whole Volume_. Some things I have inserted of _Carving and Sewing_ that I might demonstrate the whole Art. In the contrivance of these my labours, I have so managed them for the general good, that those whose Purses cannot reach to the cost of rich Dishes, I have descended to their meaner Expences, that they may give, though upon a sudden Treatment, to their Kindred, Friends, Allies and Acquaintance, a handsome and relishing entertainment in all seasons of the year, though at some distance from Towns or Villages. Nor have my serious considerations been wanting amongst direction for Diet how to order what belongs to the sick, as well as to those that are in health; and withal my care hath been such, that in this Book as in a Closet, is contained all such Secrets as relate to _Preserving_, _Conserving_, _Candying_, _Distilling_, and such rare varieties as they are most concern'd in the _best husbandring and huswifering_ of them. Nor is there any Book except that of the _Queens Closet_, which was so _enricht with Receipts_ presented to her _Majesty_, as yet that I ever saw in any _Language_, that ever contained so many _profitable Experiences, as in this Volume_: in all which the _Reader_ shall find most of the _Compositions_, and mixtures easie to be prepared, most pleasing to the Palate, and not too chargeable to the Purse; since you are at liberty to employ as much or as little therein as you please.

In this Edition I have enlarged the whole Work; and there is added two hundred several Figures of all sorts of Pies, Tarts, Custards, Cheesecakes, &c. more than was in the former: You will find them in Tables directed to the _Folio_ they have relation to; there being such variety of Forms, the Artists may use which of them they please.

It is impossible for any _Author_ to please all People, no more than the best Cook can fancy their Palats whose Mouths are always out of taste. As for those who make it their business to hide their Candle under a Bushel, to do only good to themselves, and not to others, such as will curse me for revealing the Secrets of this Art, I value the discharge of my own Conscience, in doing Good, above all their malice; protesting to the whole world, that I have not _concealed any material Secret_ of above my _fifty and five years Experience_; my Father _being a Cook_ under whom in my Child-hood I was bred up in this Art.

To conclude, the diligent Peruser of this _Volume_ gains that in a small time (as to the _Theory_) which an _Apprenticeship_ with some _Masters_ could never have taught them. I have no more to do, but to desire of God a blessing upon these my Endeavours; and remain.

_Yours in the most ingenious
ways of Friendship_,
ROBERT MAY.

Sholeby in Leicestershire,
_Sept. 30. 1664_.

_A short Narrative of some Passages of the Authors Life._

For the better knowledge of the worth of this Book, though it be not usual, the _Author_ being living, it will not be amiss to acquaint the _Reader_ with a breif account of some passages of his Life, as also the eminent Persons (renowned for their House-keeping) whom he hath served through the whole series of his Life; for as the growth of Children argue the strength of the Parents, so doth the judgment and abilities of the Artist conduce to the making and goodness of the Work: now that such great knowledge in this commendable Art was not gained but by long experience, practise, and converse with the most able men in their times, the _Reader_ in this breif Narrative may be informed by what steps and degrees he ascended to the same.

He was born in the year of our Lord 1588. His Father being one of the ablest _Cooks_ in his time, and his first Tutor in the knowledge and practice of Cookery; under whom having attained to some perfection in this Art, the old Lady _Dormer_ sent him over into _France_, where he continued five years, being in the Family of a noble Peer, and first President of _Paris_; where he gained not only the _French_ Tongue but also bettered his Knowledge in his _Cookery_, and returning again into _England_, was bound an Apprentice in _London_ to Mr. _Arthur Hollinsworth_ in _Newgate Market_, one of the ablest Work-men in _London_, Cook to the _Grocers Hall and Star Chamber_. His Apprentiship being out, the Lady _Dormer_ sent for him to be her Cook under Father (who then served that Honourable Lady) where were four Cooks more, such Noble Houses were then kept, the glory of that, and the shame of this present Age; then were those Golden Days wherein were practised the _Triumphs and Trophies of Cookery_; then was Hospitality esteemed, Neighbourhood preserved, the Poor cherished, and God honoured; then was Religion less talkt on, and more practised; then was Atheism & Schism less in fashion: then did men strive to be good, rather then to seem so. Here he continued till the Lady _Dormer_ died, and then went again to _London_, and served the Lord _Castlehaven_, after that the Lord _Lumley_, that great lover and knower of Art, who wanted no knowledge in the discerning this mystery; next the Lord _Montague_ in _Sussex_; and at the beginning of these wars, the Countess of _Kent_, then Mr. _Nevel_ of _Crissen Temple_ in _Essex_, whose Ancestors the _Smiths_ (of whom he is descended) were the greatest maintainers of Hospitality in all those parts; nor doth the present M. _Nevel_ degenerate from their laudable examples. Divers other Persons of like esteem and quality hath he served; as the Lord _Rivers_, Mr. _John Ashburnam_ of the Bed-Chambers, Dr. _Steed_ in _Kent_, Sir _Thomas Stiles_ of _Drury Lane_ in _London_, Sir _Marmaduke Constable_ in _York-shire_, Sir _Charles Lucas_; and lastly the Right Honourable the Lady _Englefield_, where he now liveth.

Thus have I given you a breif account of his Life, I shall next tell you in what high esteem this noble Art was with the Ancient Romans: _Plutarch_ reports, that _Lucullus_ his ordinary diet was fine dainty dishes, with works of pastry, banketting dishes, and fruit curiously wrought and prepared; that, his Table might be furnished with choice of varieties, (as the noble Lord _Lumley_ did) that he kept and nourished all manner of Fowl all the year long. To this purpose he telleth us a story how _Pompey_ being sick, the Physitians willed him to eat a Thrush, and it being said there was none to be had; because it was then Summer; it was answered they might have them at _Lucullus_'s house who kept both Thrushes and all manner of Fowl, all the year long. This _Lucullus_ was for his Hospitality so esteemed in _Rome_, that there was no talk, but of his Noble House-keeping. The said _Plutarch_ reports how _Cicero_ and _Pompey_ inviting themselves to sup with him, they would not let him speak with his men to provide any thing more then ordinary; but he telling them he would sup in _Apollo_, (a Chamber so named, and every Chamber proportioned their expences) he by this wile beguil'd them, and a supper was made ready estimated at fifty thousand pence, every _Roman_ penny being seven pence half penny _English_ money; a vast sum for that Age, before the _Indies_ had overflowed _Europe_. But I have too far digressed from the Author of whom I might speak much more as in relation to his Person and abilities, but who will cry out the Sun shines? this already said is enough to satisfie any but the malicious, who are the greatest enemies to all honest endeavours. _Homer_ had his _Zoilus_, and _Virgil_ his _Bavius_; the best Wits have had their detractors, and the greatest Artists have been maligned; the best on't is, such Works as these outlive their _Authors_ with an honurable respect of Posterity, whilst envious Criticks never survive their own happiness, their Lives going out like the snuff of a Candle.

_W. W._

_Triumphs and Trophies in Cookery, to be used at Festival Times,
as _Twelfth-day_, &c._

Make the likeness of a Ship in Paste-board, with Flags and Streamers, the Guns belonging to it of Kickses, bind them about with packthread, and cover them with close paste proportionable to the fashion of a Cannon with Carriages, lay them in places convenient as you see them in Ships of war, with such holes and trains of powder that they may all take Fire; Place your Ship firm in the great Charger; then make a salt round about it, and stick therein egg-shells full of sweet water, you may by a great Pin take all the meat out of the egg by blowing, and then fill it up with the rose-water, then in another Charger have the proportion of a Stag made of course paste, with a broad Arrow in the side of him, and his body filled up with claret-wine; in another Charger at the end of the Stag have the proportion of a Castle with Battlements, Portcullices, Gates and Draw-Bridges made of Past-board, the Guns and Kickses, and covered with course paste as the former; place it at a distance from the ship to fire at each other. The Stag being placed betwixt them with egg shells full of sweet water (as before) placed in salt. At each side of the Charger wherein is the Stag, place a Pye made of course paste, in one of which let there be some live Frogs, in each other some live Birds; make these Pyes of course Paste filled with bran, and yellowed over with saffron or the yolks of eggs, guild them over in spots, as also the Stag, the Ship, and Castle; bake them, and place them with guilt bay-leaves on turrets and tunnels of the Castle and Pyes; being baked, make a hole in the bottom of your pyes, take out the bran, put in your Frogs, and Birds, and close up the holes with the same course paste, then cut the Lids neatly up; To be taken off the Tunnels; being all placed in order upon the Table, before you fire the trains of powder, order it so that some of the Ladies may be perswaded to pluck the Arrow out of the Stag, then will the Claret-wine follow, as blood that runneth out of a wound. This being done with admiration to the beholders, after some short pause, fire the train of the Castle, that the pieces all of one side may go off, then fire the Trains, of one side of the Ship as in a battel; next turn the Chargers; and by degrees fire the trains of each other side as before. This done to sweeten the stink of powder, let the Ladies take the egg-shells full of sweet waters and throw them at each other. All dangers being seemingly over, by this time you may suppose they will desire to see what is in the pyes; where lifting first the lid off one pye, out skip some Frogs, which make the Ladies to skip and shreek; next after the other pye, whence come out the Birds, who by a natural instinct flying in the light, will put out the Candles; so that what with the flying Birds and skipping Frogs, the one above, the other beneath, will cause much delight and pleasure to the whole company: at length the Candles are lighted, and a banquet brought in, the Musick sounds, and every one with much delight and content rehearses their actions in the former passages. These were formerly the delight of the Nobility, before good House-keeping had left _England_, and the Sword really acted that which was only counterfeited in such honest and laudable Exercises as these.

[Decoration]

_On the Unparalell'd Piece of _Mr. May_ His Cookery._

See here a work set forth of such perfection,
Will praise it self, and doth not beg protection
From flatter'd greatness. Industry and pains
For gen'ral good, his aim, his Countrey gains;
Which ought respect him. A good _English_ Cook,
Excellent Modish Monsieurs, and that Book
Call'd _Perfect Cook_, _Merete's_ Pastery
Translated, looks like old hang'd Tapistry,
The wrong side outwards: so Monsieur adieu,
I'm for our Native _Mays_ Works rare and new,
Who with Antique could have prepar'd and drest
The Nations _quondam_ grand Imperial Feast,
Which that thrice Crown'd Third _Edward_ did ordain
For his high Order, and their Noble Train,
Whereon St. _George_ his famous Day was seen,
A Court on Earth that did all Courts out-shine.
And how all Rarities and Cates might be
Order'd for a Renown'd Solemnity,
Learn of this Cook, who with judgment, and reason,
Teacheth for every Time, each thing its true Season;
Making his Compounds with such harmony,
Taste shall not charge with superiority
Of Pepper, Salt, or Spice, by the best Pallat,
Or any one Herb in his broths or Sallat.
Where Temperance and Discretion guides his deeds;
_Satis_ his Motto, where nothing exceeds.
Or ought to wast, for there's good Husbandry
To be observ'd, as Art in Cookery.
Which of the Mathematicks doth pertake,
Geometry proportions when they bake.
Who can in paste erect (of finest flour)
A compleat Fort, a Castle, or a Tower.
A City Custard doth so subtly wind,
That should Truth seek, she'd scarce all corners find;
Platform of Sconces, that might Souldiers teach,
To fortifie by works as well as Preach.
I'le say no more; for as I am a sinner,
I've wrought my self a stomach to a dinner.
Inviting Poets not to tantalize,
But feast, (not surfeit) here their Fantasies.

_James Parry._

_To the Reader of (my very loving Friend) Mr. _Robert May_
his incomparable Book of Cookery._

See here's a Book set forth with such things in't,
As former Ages never saw in Print;
Something I'de write in praise on't, but the Pen,
Of Famous _Cleaveland_, or renowned _Ben_,
If unintomb'd might give this Book its due,
By their high strains, and keep it always new.
But I whose ruder Stile could never clime,
Or step beyond a home-bred Country Rhime,
Must not attempt it: only this I'le say,
_Cato_'s _Res Rustica_'s far short of _May_.
Here's taught to keep all sorts of flesh in date,
All sorts of Fish, if you will marinate;
To candy, to preserve, to souce, to pickle,
To make rare Sauces, both to please, and tickle
The pretty Ladies palats with delight;
Both how to glut, and gain an Appetite.
The Fritter, Pancake, Mushroom; with all these,
The curious Caudle made of Ambergriese.
He is so universal, he'l not miss,
The Pudding, nor Bolonian Sausages.
Italian, Spaniard, French, he all out-goes,
Refines their Kickshaws, and their Olio's,
The rarest use of Sweet-meats, Spicery,
And all things else belong to Cookery:
Not only this, but to give all content,
Here's all the Forms of every Implement
To work or carve with, so he makes the able
To deck the Dresser, and adorn the Table.
What dish goes first of every kind of Meat,
And so ye're welcom, pray fall too, and eat.
_Reader_, read on, for I have done; farewell,
The Book's so good, it cannot chuse but sell.

_Thy well-wishing Friend_,

John Town.

[Decoration]

_The most Exact, or A-la-mode Ways of Carving and Sewing._

_Terms of Carving._

Break that deer, leach that brawn, rear that goose, lift that swan, sauce that capon, spoil that hen, frust that chicken, unbrace that mallard, unlace that coney, dismember that hern, display that crane, disfigure that peacock, unjoynt that bittern, untach that curlew, allay that pheasant, wing that partridge, wing that quail, mince that plover, thigh that pidgeon, border that pasty, thigh that woodcock; thigh all manner of small birds.

Timber the fire, tire that egg, chine that salmon, string that lamprey, splat that pike, souce that plaice, sauce that tench, splay that bream, side that haddock, tusk that barbel, culpon that trout, fin that chivin, transon that eel, tranch that sturgeon, undertranch that porpus, tame that crab, barb that lobster.

_Service._

First, set forth mustard and brawn, pottage, beef, mutton, stewed pheasant, swan, capon, pig, venison, hake, custard, leach, lombard, blanchmanger, and jelly; for standard, venison, roast kid, fawn, and coney, bustard, stork, crane, peacock with his tail, hern-shaw, bittern, woodcock, partridge, plovers, rabbits, great birds, larks, doucers, pampuff, white leach, amber-jelly, cream of almonds, curlew, brew, snite, quail, sparrow, martinet, pearch in jelly, petty pervis, quince baked, leach, dewgard, fruter fage, blandrells or pippins with caraways in comfits, wafers, and Ipocras.

_Sauce for all manner of Fowls._

Mustard is good with brawn, Beef, Chine of Bacon, and Mutton, Verjuyce good to boil'd Chickens and Capons; Swan with Chaldrons, Ribs of Beef with Garlick, mustard, pepper, verjuyce, ginger; sauce of lamb, pig and fawn, mustard, and sugar; to pheasant, partridge, and coney, sauce gamelin; to hern-shaw, egrypt, plover, and crane, brew, and curlew, salt, and sugar, and water of Camot, bustard, shovilland, and bittern, sauce gamelin; woodcock, lapwhing, lark, quail, martinet, venison and snite with white salt; sparrows and thrushes with salt, and cinamon. Thus with all meats sauce shall have the operation.

Directions for the order of carving Fowl.

_Lift that Swan._

The manner of cutting up a Swan must be to slit her right down in the middle of the breast, and so clean thorow the back from the neck to the rump, so part her in two halves cleanly and handsomly, that you break not nor tear the meat, lay the two halves in a fair charger with the slit sides downwards, throw salt about it, and let it again on the Table. Let your sauce be chaldron for a Swan, and serve it in saucers.

_Rear the Goose._

You must break a goose contrary to the former way. Take a goose being roasted, and take off both his legs fair like a shoulder of Lamb, take him quite from the body then cut off the belly piece round close to the lower end of the breast: lace her down with your knife clean through the breast on each side your thumbs bredth for the bone in the middle of the breast; then take off the pinion of each side, and the flesh which you first lac't with your knife, raise it up clear from the bone, and take it from the carcase with the pinion; then cut up the bone which lieth before in the breast (which is commonly call'd the merry thought) the skin and the flesh being upon it; then cut from the brest-bone, another slice of flesh clean thorow, & take it clean from the bone, turn your carcase, and cut it asunder the back-bone above the loin-bones: then take the rump-end of the back-bone, and lay it in a fair dish with the skinny-side upwards, lay at the fore-end of that the merry-thought with the skin side upward, and before that the apron of the goose; then lay your pinions on each side contrary, set your legs on each side contrary behind them, that the bone end of the legs may stand up cross in the middle of the dish, & the wing pinions on the outside of them; put under the wing pinions on each side the long slices of flesh which you cut from the breast bone, and let the ends meet under the leg bones, let the other ends lie cut in the dish betwixt the leg and the pinion; then pour your sauce into the dish under your meat, throw on salt, and set it on the table.

_To cut up a Turkey or Bustard._

Raise up the leg very fair, and open the joynt with the point of your knife, but take not off the leg; then lace down the breast with your knife on both sides, & open the breast pinion with the knife, but take not the pinion off; then raise up the merry-thought betwixt the breast bone, and the top of the merry-thought, lace down the flesh on both sides of the breast-bone, and raise up the flesh called the brawn, turn it outward upon both sides, but break it not, nor cut it not off; then cut off the wing pinion at the joynt next to the body, and stick on each side the pinion in the place where ye turned out the brawn, but cut off the sharp end of the Pinion, take the middle piece, and that will just fit the place.

You may cut up a capon or pheasant the same way, but of your capon cut not off the pinion, but in the place where you put the pinion of the turkey, you must put the gizard of your capon on each side half.

_Dismember that Hern._

Take off both the legs, and lace it down to the breast with your knife on both sides, raise up the flesh, and take it clean off with the pinion; then stick the head in the breast, set the pinion on the contrary side of the carcase, and the leg on the other side, so that the bones ends may meet cross over the carcase, and the other wings cross over upon the top of the carcase.

_Unbrace that Mallard._

Raise up the pinion and the leg, but take them not off, raise the merry-thought from the breast, and lace it down on each side of the breast with your knife, bending to and fro like ways.

_Unlace that Coney._

Turn the back downwards, & cut the belly flaps clean off from the kidney, but take heed you cut not the kidney nor the flesh, then put in the point of your knife between the kidneys, and loosen the flesh from each side the bone then turn up the back of the rabbit, and cut it cross between the wings, and lace it down close by the bone with your knife on both sides, then open the flesh of the rabbit from the bone, with the point of your knife against the kidney, and pull the leg open softly with your hand, but pluck it not off, then thrust in your knife betwixt the ribs and the kidney, slit it out, and lay the legs close together.

_Sauce that Capon._

Lift up the right leg and wing, and so array forth, and lay him in the platter as he should fly, and so serve him. Know that capons or chickens be arrayed after one sauce; the chickens shall be sauced with green sauce or veriuyce.

_Allay that Pheasant._

Take a pheasant, raise his legs and wings as it were a hen and no sauce but only salt.

_Wing that Partridg._

Raise his legs, and his wing as a hen, if you mince him sauce him with wine, powder of ginger, and salt, and set him upon a chafing dish of coals to warm and serve.

_Wing that Quail._

Take a quail and raise his legs and his wings as an hen, and no sauce but salt.

_Display that Crane._

Unfold his Legs, and cut off his wings by the joynts, then take up his wings and his legs, and sauce them with powder of ginger, mustard, vinegar, and salt.

_Dismember that Hern._

Raise his legs and his wings as a crane, and sauce him with vinegar, mustard, powder of ginger and salt.

_Unjoynt that Bittern._

Raise his legs & wings as a heron & no sauce but salt.

_Break that Egript._

Take an egript, and raise his legs and his wings as a heron, and no sauce but salt.

_Untach that Curlew._

Raise his legs and wings as a hen, & no sauce but salt.

_Untach that brew._

Raise his legs and his wings in the same manner, and no sauce but only salt.

_Unlace that Coney._

Lay him on the back, and cut away the vents, then raise the wings and the sides, and lay bulk, chine, and sides together, sauce them with vinegar and powder of ginger.

_Break that Sarcel._

Take a sarcel or teal, and raise his wings and his legs, and no sauce but only salt.

_Mince that Plover._

Raise his leg and wings as a hen, and no sauce but only salt.

_A Snite._

Raise his legs, wings and his shoulders as a plover, and no sauce but salt.

_Thigh that Woodcock._

Raise his legs as a hen, and dight his brain.

_The Sewing of Fish._

_The First Course._

To go to the sewing of Fish, Musculade, Minews in few of porpos or of salmon, bak'd herring with sugar, green fish pike, lamprey, salent, porpos roasted, bak'd gurnet and baked lamprey.

_The Second Course._

Jelly white and red, dates in confect, conger, salmon, birt, dorey, turbut holibut for standard, bace, trout, mullet, chevin, soles, lamprey roast, and tench in jelly.

_The Third Course._

Fresh sturgeon, bream, pearch in jelly, a jole of salmon sturgeon, welks, apples and pears roasted; with sugar candy, figs of molisk, raisins, dates, capt with minced ginger, wafers, and Ipocras.

_The Carving of Fish._

The carver of fish must see to peason and furmety, the tail and the liver; you must look if there be a salt porpos or sole, turrentine, and do after the form of venison; _baked herring_, lay it whole on the trencher, then white herring in a dish, open it by the back, pick out the bones and the row, and see there be mustard. Of salt fish, green-fish, salt salmon, and conger, pare away the skin; salt fish, stock fish, marling, mackrel, and hake with butter, and take away the bones & skins; _A Pike_, lay the womb upon a trencher, with pike sauce enough, _A salt Lamprey_, gobbin it in seven or eight pieces, and so present it, _A Plaice_, put out the water, then cross him with your knife, and cast on salt, wine, or ale. _Bace_, _Gurnet_, _Rochet_, _Bream_, _Chevin_, _Mullet_, _Roch_, _Pearch_, _Sole_, _Mackrel_, _Whiting_, _Haddock_, and _Codling_, raise them by the back, pick out the bones, and cleanse the rest in the belly. _Carp Bream_, _Sole_, and _Trout_, back and belly together. _Salmon_, _Conger_, _Sturgeon_, _Turbut_, _Thornback_, _Houndfish_, and _Holibut_, cut them in the dishes; the _Porpos_ about, _Tench_ in his sauce; cut two _Eels_, and _Lampreys_ roast, pull off the skin, and pick out the bones, put thereto vinegar, and powder. A _Crab_, break him asunder, in a dish make the shell clean, & put in the stuff again, temper it with vinegar, and powder them, cover it with bread and heat it; a _Crevis_ dight him thus, part him asunder, slit the belly, and take out the fish, pare away the red skin, mince it thin, put vinegar in the dish, and set it on the Table without heating. _A Jole of Sturgeon_, cut it into thin morsels, and lay it round about the dish, _Fresh Lamprey bak'd_, open the pasty, then take white bread, and cut it thin, lay it in a dish, & with a spoon take out Galentine, & lay it upon the bread with red wine and powder of Cinamon; then cut a gobbin of Lamprey, mince it thin, and lay it in the Gallentine, and set it on the fire to heat. _Fresh herring_, with salt and wine, _Shrimps_ well pickled, _Flounders_, _Gudgeons_, _Minews_, and Muskles, Eels, and Lampreys, Sprats is good in few, musculade in worts, oysters in few, oysters in gravy, minews in porpus, salmon in jelly white and red, cream of almonds, dates in comfits, pears and quinces in sirrup, with parsley roots, mortus of hound fish raise standing.

_Sauces for Fish._

Mustard is good for salt herring, salt fish, salt conger, salmon, sparling, salt eel and ling; vinegar is good with salt porpus, turrentine, salt sturgeon, salt thirlepole, and salt whale, lamprey with gallentine; verjuyce to roach, dace, bream, mullet, flounders, salt crab and chevin with powder of cinamon and ginger; green sauce is good with green fish and hollibut, cottel, and fresh turbut; put not your green sauce away for it is good with mustard.

_Bills of _FARE_ for every Season in the Year; also how to set
forth the _MEAT_ in order for that Service, as it was used
before Hospitality left this Nation._

_A Bill of Fare for _All-Saints-Day_, being _Novemb. 1_._

Oysters.
1 A Collar of brawn and mustard.
2 A Capon in stewed broth with marrow-bones.
3 A Goose in stoffado, or two Ducks.
4 A grand Sallet.
5 A Shoulder of Mutton with oysters.
6 A bisk dish baked.
7 A roast chine of beef.
8 Minced pies or chewits of capon, tongue, or of veal.
9 A chine of Pork.
10 A pasty of venison.
11 A swan, or 2 geese roast.
12 A loyn of veal.
13 A French Pie of divers compounds.
14 A roast turkey.
15 A pig roast.
16 A farc't dish baked.
17 Two brangeese roasted, one larded.
18 Souc't Veal.
19 Two Capons roasted, one larded.
20 A double bordered Custard.

_A Second Course for the same Mess._

Oranges and lemons.
1 A souc't pig.
2 A young lamb or kid roast.
3 Two Shovelers.
4 Two Herns, one larded.
5 A Potatoe-Pye.
6 A duck and mallard, one larded.
7 A souc't Turbut.
8 A couple of pheasants, one larded.
9 Marinated Carp, or Pike, or Bream.
10 Three brace of partridg, three larded.
11 Made Dish of Spinage cream baked.
12 A roll of beef.
13 Two teels roasted, one larded.
14 A cold goose pie.
15 A souc't mullet and bace.
16 A quince pye.
17 Four curlews, 2 larded.
18 A dried neats tongue.
19 A dish of anchoves.
20 A jole of Sturgeon.
Jellies and Tarts Royal, and Ginger bread, and other Fruits.

_A Bill of Fare for Christmas Day, and how to set the Meat
in order._

Oysters.
1 A collar of brawn.
2 Stewed Broth of Mutton marrow bones.
3 A grand Sallet.
4 A pottage of caponets.
5 A breast of veal in stoffado.
6 A boil'd partridge.
7 A chine of beef, or surloin roast.
8 Minced pies.
9 A Jegote of mutton with anchove sauce.
10 A made dish of sweet-bread.
11 A swan roast.
12 A pasty of venison.
13 A kid with a pudding in his belly.
14 A steak pie.
15 A hanch of venison roasted.
16 A turkey roast and stuck with cloves.
17 A made dish of chickens in puff paste.
18 Two bran geese roasted, one larded.
19 Two large capons, one larded.
20 A Custard.

_The second course for the same Mess._

Oranges and Lemons.
1 A young lamb or kid.
2 Two couple of rabbits, two larded.
3 A pig souc't with tongues.
4 Three ducks, one larded.
5 Three pheasants, 1 larded
6 A Swan Pye.
7 Three brace of partridge, three larded.
8 Made dish in puff paste.
9 Bolonia sausages, and anchoves, mushrooms, and Cavieate,
and pickled oysters in a dish.
10 Six teels, three larded.
11 A Gammon of Westphalia Bacon.
12 Ten plovers, five larded.
13 A quince pye, or warden pie.
14 Six woodcocks, 3 larded.
15 A standing Tart in puff-paste, preserved fruits, Pippins,
_&c._
16 A dish of Larks.
17 Six dried neats tongues.
18 Sturgeon.
19 Powdered Geese.
Jellies.

_A Bill of Fare for _new-years Day_._

Oysters.
1 Brawn and Mustard.
2 Two boil'd Capons in stewed Broth, or white Broth.
3 Two Turkies in stoffado.
4 A Hash of twelve Partridges, or a shoulder of mutton.
5 Two bran Geese boil'd.
6 A farc't boil'd meat with snites or ducks.
7 A marrow pudding bak't
8 A surloin of roast beef.
9 Minced pies, ten in a dish, or what number you please
10 A Loin of Veal.
11 A pasty of Venison.
12 A Pig roast.
13 Two geese roast.
14 Two capons, one larded.
15 Custards.

_A second Course for the same Mess._

Oranges and Lemons.
1 A side of Lamb
2 A souc't Pig.
3 Two couple of rabbits, two larded.
4 A duck and mallard, one larded.
5 Six teels, three larded.
6 A made dish, or Batalia-Pye.
7 Six woodcocks, 3 larded.
8 A warden pie, or a dish of quails.
9 Dried Neats tongues.
10 Six tame Pigeons, three larded.
11 A souc't Capon.
12 Pickled mushrooms, pickled Oysters, and Anchoves in a dish.
13 Twelve snites, six larded
14 Orangado Pye, or a Tart Royal of dried and wet suckets.
15 Sturgeon.
16 Turkey or goose pye.
Jelly of five or six sorts, Lay Tarts of divers colours and
ginger-bread, and other Sweet-meats.

_A Bill of Fare for _February_._

1 Eggs and Collops.
2 Brawn and Mustard.
3 A hash of Rabbits four.
4 A grand Fricase.
5 A grand Sallet.
6 A Chine of roast Pork.

_A second Course._

1 A whole Lamb roast.
2 Three Widgeons.
3 A Pippin Pye.
4 A Jole of Sturgeon.
5 A Bacon Tart.
6 A cold Turkey Pye.
Jellies and Ginger-bread, and Tarts Royal.

_A Bill of fare for _March_._

Oysters.
1 Brawn and Mustard.
2 A fresh Neats Tongue and Udder in stoffado.
3 Three Ducks in stoffado.
4 A roast Loin of Pork.
5 A pasty of Venison.
6 A Steak Pye.

_A second Course._

1 A side of Lamb.
2 Six Teels, three larded.
3 A Lamb-stone Pye.
4 200 of Asparagus.
5 A Warden-Pye.
6 Marinate Flounders.
Jellies and Ginger-bread, and Tarts Royal.

_A Bill of fare for _April_._

Oysters.
1 A Bisk.
2 Cold Lamb.
3 A haunch of venison roast.
4 Four Goslings.
5 A Turkey Chicken.
6 Custards of Almonds.

_A second Course._

1 Lamb, a side in joynts.
2 Turtle Doves eight.
3 Cold Neats-tongue pye.
4 8 Pidgeons, four larded.
5 Lobsters.
6 A Collar of Beef.
Tansies.

_A Bill of Fare for _May_._

1 Scotch Pottage or Skink.
2 Scotch collops of mutton
3 A Loin of Veal.
4 An oline, or a Pallat pye.
5 Three Capons, 1 larded.
6 Custards.

_A Second Course._

1 Lamb.
2 A Tart Royal, or Quince Pye
3 A Gammon of Bacon Pie.
4 A Jole of Sturgeon.
5 Artichock Pie hot.
6 Bolonia Sausage.
Tansies.

_A bill of Fare for _June_._

1 A shoulder of mutton hasht
2 A Chine of Beef.
3 Pasty of Venison, a cold Hash.
4 A Leg of Mutton roast.
5 Four Turkey Chickens.
6 A Steak Pye.

_A Second Course._

1 Jane or Kid.
2 Rabbits.
3 Shovelers.
4 Sweet-bread Pye.
5 Olines, or pewit.
6 Pigeons.

_A bill of Fare for _July_._

Muskmelons.
1 Pottage of Capon.
2 Boil'd Pigeons.
3 A hash of Caponets.
4 A Grand Sallet.
5 A Fawn.
6 A Custard.

_A Second Course._

1 Pease, of French Beans.
2 Gulls four, two larded.
3 Pewits eight, four larded.
4 A quodling Tart green.
5 Portugal eggs, two sorts.
6 Buttered Brawn.
Selsey Cockles broil'd.

_A Bill of Fare for _August_._

Muskmelons.
1 Scotch collops of Veal.
2 Boil'd Breast of Mutton.
3 A Fricase of Pigeons.
4 A stewed Calves head.
5 Four Goslings.
6 Four Caponets.

_A Second Course._

1 Dotterel twelve, six larded
2 Tarts Royal of Fruit.
3 Wheat-ears.
4 A Pye of Heath-Pouts.
5 Marinate Smelts.
6 Gammon of Bacon.
Selsey Cockles.

_A Bill of Fare for _September_._

Oysters.
1 An Olio.
2 A Breast of Veal in stoffado.
3 twelve Partridg hashed.
4 A Grand Sallet.
5 Chaldron Pye.
6 Custard.

_A second Course._

1 Rabbits
2 Two herns, one larded.
3 Florentine of tongues.
4 8 Pigeons roast, 4 larded.
5 Pheasant pouts, 2 larded.
6 A cold hare pye.
Selsey cockles broil'd after.

_A bill of Fare for _October_._

Oysters.
1 Boil'd Ducks.
2 A hash of a loin of veal.
3 Roast Veal.
4 Two bran-geese roasted.
5 Tart Royal.
6 Custard.

_A second Course._

1 Pheasant, pouts, pigeons.
2 Knots twelve.
3 Twelve quails, six larded.
4 Potato pye.
5 Sparrows roast.
6 Turbut.
Selsey Cockles.

_A bill of Fare formerly used in Fasting days, and in _Lent_._

_The first Course._

Oysters if in season.
1 Butter and eggs.
2 Barley pottage, or Rice pottage.
3 Stewed Oysters.
4 Buttered eggs on toasts.
5 Spinage Sallet boil'd.
6 Boil'd Rochet or gurnet.
7 A jole of Ling.
8 Stewed Carp.
9 Oyster Chewits.
10 Boil'd Pike.
11 Roast Eels.
12 Haddocks, fresh Cod, or Whitings.
13 Eel or Carp Pye.
14 Made dish of spinage.
15 Salt Eels.
16 Souc't Turbut.

_A second Course._

1 Fried Soals.
2 Stewed oysters in scollop shells.
3 Fried Smelts.
4 Congers head broil'd.
5 Baked dish of Potatoes, or Oyster pye.
6 A spitchcock of Eels.
7 Quince pie or tarts royal.
8 Buttered Crabs.
9 Fried Flounders.
10 Jole of fresh Salmon.
11 Fried Turbut.
12 Cold Salmon pye.
13 Fried skirrets.
14 Souc't Conger.
15 Lobsters.
16 Sturgeon.

[Decoration]

THE

ACCOMPLISHT COOK,

OR,

The whole Art and Mystery of
COOKERY, fitted for all
Degrees and Qualities.

* * * * *
* * * *