Chapter I: Front Matter

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Transcriber’s note:

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text has been surrounded by underscores (_italics_).

Some corrections have been made to the printed text. These are
listed in a second transcriber’s note at the end of the text.

THE ALHAMBRA AND THE KREMLIN.

The South and the North of Europe.

by

SAMUEL IRENÆUS PRIME,

Author of “Travels in Europe and the East.”

New York: Anson D. F. Randolph & Company, 770 Broadway.

Entered according to Act of Congress, in the year 1873, by Anson D. F. Randolph and Company, In the office of the Librarian of Congress, at Washington.

Press of John Wilson and Son, Cambridge.

Bindery of Robert Rutter, 82 and 84 Beekman St., New York.

TO

MRS. E’LOUISA L. PRIME

THIS VOLUME

IS AFFECTIONATELY INSCRIBED.

THE South and the North of Europe are contrasted in this volume. Not by any formal comparison of the morals and manners, the institutions and condition of the peoples in different latitudes, but by candid statement and description, I have sought to give a fair view of life as it is in Spain and Scandinavia.

Since the journey was made, the Queen of Spain has fled, and the Emperor of France has perished from among men. But the social life of the nations remains the same from age to age.

The Alhambra is a type of the South. The Kremlin is a symbol of the North. Both of them are fortresses enclosing palaces: the glory of Spain in ruins, the pride of the North in its strength and beauty.

Vague and indefinite ideas of these wonderful edifices, and of the countries they represent, have been entertained by many, who may find in these pages pictures of things as they are, which the writer trusts are faithful and portable.

LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS.

The Generaliffe _Frontispiece._

Bridge, Gateway, and Cathedral of Burgos 16

The Cid 17

The Escorial 22

The Royal Palace, Madrid 40

Toledo 54

The Alcazar 59

Cordova 82

Court of Oranges, Cordova 87

The Great Mosque, Cordova 89

“La Geralda,” Seville 93

She wept and told her Beads 96

The Bull-Fight 101

The Picador 106

In the Alameda, at Malaga 118

The Diligence 125

Outer Wall of the Alhambra 130

Portion of a Door 138

The Vermilion Tower 142

The Alhambra 156

Geneva and the Rhone 166

Merle d’Aubigné 167

D’Aubigné’s Birthplace and Residence 169

Lausanne, and the Lake of Geneva 171

Castle of Chillon 173

The Lake and City of Geneva 175

Cathedral and Platform at Berne 182

On the Lake of Thun 184

Pilatus, Lake of Lucerne 190

Monument to the Swiss Guard. (_By Thorvaldsen_) 195

Tell’s Chapel, Lake of Lucerne 198

Swiss Horn Blowers 211

Peasants of Eastern Switzerland 212

Female Costumes in Appenzell 217

Death of the Chamois 231

On the Rhine 241

Aix-la-Chapelle 245

Frankfort Dining-Table 269

Polish Peasants 283

Scene at Railway Station 294

A Rainy Day in a Russian City 309

Street Scene in a Russian City 315

A Russian Porter 321

The Kremlin 331

Plan of the Centre of Moskva City 335

The Russo-Greek Service 342

Helsingfors 383

Stockholm Steamers 396

Upsala 413

Costumes of Sweden 421

Roxen Locks 435

Travelling in Carioles in Norway 457

Palace of Frederiksberg 462

A Domestic Scene in Denmark 469

Façade of the Thorvaldsen Museum, Copenhagen 471

Portrait of Thorvaldsen. (_By Horace Vernet_) 473

Hamburg 480

Home Again 482

CONTENTS.

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CHAPTER I.

GRANADA.

PAGE

Lodgings at the Alhambra.—Restoration.—Webs of Falsehood.—The Sierra
Nevada Mountains.—Fruits.—Progress of the Peasantry.—The Moors.—Adam’s
Visit to Spain.—Expulsion of the Moors.—Decline of the Empire.—
Railroads.—Mines.—Early Settlers.—Iberians.—Phœnicians.—Goths.—Moors.—
Waning of the Crescent.—Capture of Cordova.—Flight of the last Moorish
King

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CHAPTER II.

OUT OF FRANCE INTO SPAIN.—THE BASQUE PROVINCES.

Biarritz.—Chateau Eugenie.—Dangerous Coast.—Breakwater.—The Virgin’s
Partiality.—Bathing Grounds.—Couriers.—Antanazio.—His Honesty and
Zeal.—Crossing the Boundary.—Island of Conference.—Spanish Courtesy.—
The Basque Provinces.—Peculiar Customs.—Ancestry.—The Language.—
Spanish Stupidity.—La Fayette.—St. Sebastian.—Duke of Wellington’s
Sack of the City.—Bull-ring.—Likeness of the Country to Switzerland.—
Physique of the Inhabitants.—Productions.—Industries.—Primogeniture.—
Tolasa.—Vittoria.—Wellington’s Victory.—Miranda.—Roderick, the last
King of the Goths

6

CHAPTER III.

BURGOS.—THE ESCORIAL.

A sleepy Town.—Origin of the Name.—Fusion of the Crowns of Leon and
Castile.—The Coffer of the Cid.—Swindling a Jew.—Moorish Lies.—
Hotels.—A Change of Base.—The Cathedral.—Statues.—Carvings.—Verdict of
Charles V. and Philip II.—Devil beating the Railroad.—Carving by
Nicodemus.—Miracles.—Castle.—Engineer hoisted by his own Petard.—
Burgos Taverns.—Philip II. His Character.—Conception of a Palace,
Monastery, and Tomb.—The Escorial.—Dimensions.—St. Lawrence.—
Turning-point of his Life.—Description of the Palace.—Death of Philip
II.—Mausoleum.—The Sagrario.—A _toe_-tal Loss.—Cellini Crucifix.—
Library

15

CHAPTER IV.

MADRID.—A SABBATH AND A CARNIVAL.

A polyglot Valet.—Missionary Schools.—Foreign Chaplains.—The Church
_Militant_.—Upper Chamber.—Religious Intolerance.—Inquisition.—
Persecution.—Spanish Sabbath.—Devotion.—Infidelity.—The Prado.—
Bull-ring.—Wine Shops.—Frolicking.—Dancing.—Cheap Wines.—Carnival.—
Costumes.—Politeness.—Maskers.—Ancient Belle.—Hobbling Monk.—Pope.—
Natural Goose.—Devil.—Orang-outang.—General Abandon.—Religion and
Folly.—Good Humor

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CHAPTER V.

MADRID.—PALACE.—BANK.—PICTURE-GALLERY.

Napoleon’s Epigram.—Royal Palace.—Cavalry.—Military Parade.—Plains of
Castile.—Armory.—Swords of Gonzalo de Cordova, Ferdinand, and Charles
V.—Armor of Boabdil.—Revolvers.—Mighty Men of War.—Toledo Blade.—
Stables.—Spanish Horses.—Merino Sheep.—Royal Equipage.—Crazy Jane’s
Carriage.—Her Effigy.—Mischievous Display.—French Language and
Influence.—Slow Coaches.—Cheap Labor.—Architecture.—Banking-house.—
Bank of Spain.—Repose of Manner.—Gold at last.—Railroads.—
Post-office.—Personal Identity.—Rebel General.—Lost Letters.—
Telegraphs.—Progress.—Picture-gallery.—The Immaculate Conception.—
Vision of St. Bernard.—Christ sinking under his Cross.—Equestrian
Portrait of Charles V.—Titian.—Correggio.—Mary in the Garden.—Blas del
Prado.—Hidden Gems.—Murillo.—Material and Ideal Art

39