Chapter VI

TOLEDO.—ITS FLEAS, LANDLORDS, ANTIQUITIES, AND LUNATICS.

Progress.—Hotel Lino.—The wicked Flea.—Easy Manners.—Breakfast.—Model
Landlord and Waiters.—Toledo Butter.—City set on a Hill.—Monuments of
departed Peoples.—Romance.—Architecture.—Oldest City in the World.—
Mythic Founders.—Perfidy of Roderick.—Reign of the Archbishops.—
Decline of Power and Glory.—Cathedral.—Descent of the Virgin.—A fair
Penitent.—Orthodoxy of the Priesthood.—Burning of the Missals.—The
Muzarabe.—The dead Lion better than a living Dog.—Eloquent Epitaph.—
Honors paid the Virgin.—The Alcazar.—Derivation of Mango.—Spanish
Pride.—Peacocks.—Foreign Impressions.—Moorish Gates.—San Juan de los
Reyes.—Thank-offerings.—St. Florinde.—Cave of Hercules.—Legend of the
Cid.—Café.—Toledo Blades.—Virtues of the Tagus.—Sword of Boabdil.—
Lunatic Asylum.—Don Quixote.—Crazy Editors.—Statistics.—Causes of
Insanity.—Spanish Slowness and Temperance.—Sophomores

53

CHAPTER VII.

LA MANCHA.—ANDALUSIA.

Smoking.—Cigarettes at Dinner.—Taking Sanctuary.—Retort.—Tobacco
Culture.—Cuban Monopoly.—Chewing tabooed.—Early Smoking.—Children and
Ladies.—Tobacco Factory.—Cigareras.—Flavored Cigars.—Potash.—Soda.—
Opium.—Intemperate Clergyman.—La Mancha.—Don Quixote.—Treeless
Landscape.—Sheep.—Corn.—Primitive Ploughing.—Husbandry.—
Primogeniture.—Lands of Church and Crown.—Agricultural Schools.—
Periodicals.—Sierra Morena Mountains.—Cautious Engineer.—Manjibar.—
Pickled Chicken.—Moving on.—Perfumes of Arabia.—Resting-place.—
Transatlantic Indigestion.—Andalusia.—Ignorance and Crime.—Government
Education.—Statistics.—Salamanca.—Influence of Climate.—Population.—
The Aloe and Olive.—Oranges and Lemons.—Hills of Andalusia.—Sheep

69

CHAPTER VIII.

CORDOVA.

Cleanliness.—Paved Streets.—Bridge over the Guadalquiver.—Age of the
City.—Wholesale Butchery.—Government.—Mosques.—Baths.—Inns.—Schools.—
Library.—Rural Fête.—Departed Glory.—Palace of Abdurhama.—Beautiful
Evergreens.—Fruits.—Interior of an Ancient House.—Moorish Style.—
Cathedral.—Converted Mosque.—Gate of Pardon.—Court-yard.—Orange
Grove.—Fountains.—Gold Fish.—Elders in the Gate.—The Mecca of Europe.—
Holy Shrine.—Symbolism.—Indulgences.—Bronze Ornaments.—Inscription in
Gothic and Arabic.—Dimensions.—Precious Stones.—The Mihrab.—The
Kalif’s Oratory.—Mosaics.—Devout Mussulmans.—Chapels.—Etching on
Stone.—Impressive Monuments

83

CHAPTER IX.

SEVILLE, ITS CATHEDRAL AND BULL-FIGHTS.

Delicious Climate.—Customs.—Exile of the Moors.—Consequent Decay.—The
Alcazar.—Barbaric Splendor.—A Christian Kingdom.—Cathedral.—A House of
God.—Giant Columns.—High Mass.—Unconscious Worshipper.—Beautiful
Women.—Venus-worship.—Port of Seville.—Fruits.—Don Juan.—Barber of
Seville.—Murillo’s House.—Mosaics.—Moorish Castle.—_Auto-da-fé._—The
Quemadaro.—Field of St. Sebastian.—Circulation of the Bible.—Tower of
Gold.—Treasure House.—Prison.—Bins of Gold.—Decline and Fall of
Spain.—Demoralizing Influences.—Corruption and Robbery.—Yellow Fever.—
Guadalquiver.—Amphitheatre.—A Delicate Lady.—Warlike Husband.—Her
Description of a Bull-fight.—The Ring.—Spectators.—Trumpet-blast.—
Picadors.—Entrance of the Bull.—Charge.—Horseman.—Terrible Sight.—
Chulos.—Banderilleros.—Squibs.—Matador.—Applause.—The Ladies.—
Different Tastes.—Squeamish Husband

92

CHAPTER X.

SEVILLE.

La Caridad.—Art Treasures.—St. John.—Miracle of the Loaves and Fishes.—
Moses striking the Rock.—Recovery of Pictures at Waterloo.—French
Thieves.—Venus de Medici.—Thoughtful Amateur.—Museum Fees.—Guardian
Angels of Seville.—Martyrdom.—Murillo’s Pages of the Gospel.—Old
Masters.—Decay of Art.—Bull-fighting.—The Season.—Exaggeration.—
Curious Development.—Effect on the National Character.—Street-plays.—
Feats.—Demoralization.—Spanish Pride.—Morality.—Contrast between the
North and South of Europe.—Costume of Andalusia.—Fashion.—Life of the
People.—Price of Labor.—Food.—Climate.—Beer.—Wine cheaper than Water.—
Sack.—Intemperance.—Physical Circumstances.—Social Burdens.—Beautiful
Trait.—Obedience.—Veneration of the Aged

107

CHAPTER XI.

MALAGA.

An ill Wind that blows no Good.—Curious Excuse for Crime.—Old World like
the New.—Resort for Invalids.—Genial Clime.—Range of Thermometer.—
Mineral Waters.—Sunshine.—Rainfall.—Heavenly Skies.—Advice to
Consumptives.—Grapes.—Raisins.—Wine and Oil.—A Sabbath.—Service at the
British Consulate.—Mrs. Partington.—English Chaplain.—Sermon.—Narrow
Streets.—Sweet Memories of Cologne.—Picturesque Moors.—Cathedral.—High
Mass.—Florid Architecture.—Fruits.—Prayer of a Dying Moor.—Florinde.—
Chronicles of Washington Irving.—Luxuries of Travel.—Diligences.—Out
of Malaga.—Obstinate Mules.—Night.—Mountains.—Setting Sun.—Lovely
Scenery.—Orchards.—Armed Guards.—Gentlemen of the Road.—Loja.—Inn.—
Flock of Fleas.—A Stimulant.—Setting out for Granada.—Santa Fé.—Its
History.—Granada at Last.—In the Grounds of the Alhambra

118

CHAPTER XII.

THE ALHAMBRA.

The Paradise of the West.—Rivers of Eden.—New Damascus.—Granada.—Origin
of the Name.—Fruits.—Mountains.—Skies.—Moorish Empire broken.—Zawi Ibu
Zeyri.—Alhambra.—Meaning of the Name.—Extension of the Castle.—
Original Grandeur.—Its first Prince.—His Improvements.—Roads.—
Colleges.—Hospitals.—Canals.—Arts.—Sciences.—Degeneracy.—Intrigues and
Murders.—Ruin.—Final Overthrow of Moorish Power.—Ferdinand and
Isabella.—Columbus.—Fleas and Cake.—Blessing and Gold.—New World in
the West.—Bookstore.—Irving’s Tales.—Gate of Judgment.—Plateau.—
Desolation.—Court of Myrtles.—Court of Lions.—Boabdil.—Abencerrages.—
Treachery.—Hall of Ambassadors.—Bensaken.—Walking Cyclopedia.—
Prudence.—Washington Irving.—Dolores.—Queen’s Garden.—Hall of Two
Sisters.—Harem.—Linderaka Gardens.—Queen’s Dressing-room.—Gypsies.—
Perfume Bath.—Water Bath.—Governor’s Court.—Bowed Slab.—The Morning
Star

129

CHAPTER XIII.

THE ALHAMBRA (_continued_).

The poor Cobbler of Granada.—Spanish Rule of Living.—Xantippe.—Search
for Gold.—Messenger Dove.—Dreams.—Landslip.—Fever cured.—Conversion.—
The Watch Tower.—Magic Bell.—Parapanda Mountains.—Reign of Law.—Gift
to the Duke of Wellington.—Bloody Pass.—Vega.—Water Gates.—The Last
Sigh of the Moor.—His Mother’s Reproof.—Moorish Race.—Political
Prisoners.—Birthplace of Eugenie.—The Generaliffe.—Ancient Tree.—
Suspected Queen.—Women of Spain.—Sins of Climate

144

CHAPTER XIV.

GRANADA.

Troubadour and Gypsy Life.—Dwarf.—Horse.—Fair.—Physique of the gitanos.—
Habits.—Habitations.—Moral Principle.—Chastity.—Swindling.—
Superstition.—Fortune-tellers.—Credulity.—Trickery.—Parisian
Spiritualist.—Gypsy Creed.—Musings.—Causes of Astonishment.—Paintings
and Cathedrals.—Unworthy Ambition.—Silence in Church.—Cathedral of
Granada.—Chapel Royal.—Tomb of Ferdinand and Isabella.—Tomb of Philip
and Crazy Jane.—Obliging Priest.—Fees.—Leaving Granada.—Disguised
Thief.—Seizure and Imprisonment.—Out of Granada

155

CHAPTER XV.

GENEVA.—FREYBURG.—BERNE.

Geneva.—Color of the Rhone.—Cæsar’s Wall.—Cathedral.—Calvin.—Lady Jane
Grey.—Rousseau.—Voltaire.—Madame de Stael.—Byron.—Jura.—Mont Blanc.—
Celebrities.—Coppet.—Ninon.—St. Protais.—Lisus.—Morges.—Grand
Muveran.—Diablerets.—Mont Rosa.—Mont Blanc.—Lausanne.—St. Anne.—Sacred
Rat.—Cathedral.—Convention of Reformers.—Gibbon.—Classic Ground.—
Chillon.—Bonnivard.—Torture Chamber.—Hotel Byron.—Railroad.—Ice.—Swiss
Valleys.—Freyburg.—Suspension Bridge.—Great Organ.—Cathedral.—
Wonderful Music: its Power and Sweetness.—Berne.—Morat.—Burgundian
Custom.—Public Bears.—Unfortunate Englishman.—Curious Clock.—Market
Women.—Federal Palace.—Swiss Cantons.—Bernese Alps.—Thun.—Jungfrau

165

CHAPTER XVI.

THE BRUNIG PASS.—LUCERNE.

Pleasant Ride.—Interlaken.—Lakes Thun and Brienz.—Abendberg.—Faulhorn.—
Giesback.—Illumination.—Ascent of the Brunig.—Vale of Meyringen.—Falls
of Reichenbach.—Lungern.—Splendid Courage.—Cheap Suffering.—Modern
Reformers.—Mount Pilatus.—Myths.—Lucerne.—Population.—St. Leger.—
Service.—Crucifix.—A Devotee.—Mass.—Organ.—Cloisters.—Lake Lucerne.—
Lion of Lucerne.—Dance of Death.—Striking Scenery.—Gersau.—Brunnen.—
Bay of Uri.—Sir James Mackintosh.—Swiss Patriots.—Chapel of Tell.—
Cascades.—Fluellen.—Altorf.—Captain Lott

186

CHAPTER XVII.

THE BLACK VIRGIN OF EINSIEDELN.—LIFE IN SWITZERLAND, ETC.

The Hermit Meinrad.—His Black Virgin.—Murder.—Detective Ravens.—
Monastery.—Miracle.—Shrine.—Pilgrims.—Revenue.—A Barefooted Penitent.—
Village Church.—Fountain.—Gallery.—Abbot.—Hospitality.—Library.—
College.—Monastic Life.—Adieu.—Pleasant Quarters.—Meals.—Hotel Life.—
John Bull.—A Charming Couple.—Americans.—A National Feature.—Slang.—
Language.—Manners.—An Elegant Lady.—Selfishness.—French and Swiss
Railroads.—Improvements.—Accidents.—Accommodations

200

CHAPTER XVIII.

CANTON APPENZELL.—SWISS CUSTOMS.

Trogen.—Convent.—Memento mori.—Scenery.—Religion.—German Service.—
Curious Custom.—Constance.—Martyrs.—Dividing Line.—Remarkable Change.—
Cause.—Pillory.—Evening Bell.—Watchman’s Song.—Bridal Custom.—Athletic
Sports.—Democracy.—Assembly.—Office Seekers.—Council.—Roads.—
Taxation.—Schools.—Foreign Pupils.—Pedestrians.—Moral Culture.—
Treatment of Women.—Cows.—Farm Work.—Manufactures.—Mechanics.—God’s
Acre.—Graves.—Funeral Ceremonies.—Simplicity.—Lonely Burial.—
Unpleasing Custom.—Costumes.—The Upper Classes.—Refinement and
Culture.—Manners.—Patriotism.—A Challenge

212

CHAPTER XIX.

GERMAN WATERING-PLACES.—BINGEN ON THE RHINE.

A German Watering-place.—Land of Salt.—Salt Works.—Last of the Barons.—
Homburg.—Kursaal.—Palace.—Gaming.—Kreusnach.—Spas.—Salt Springs.—
Cure-house.—Kissingen.—Baths.—Cures.—Long Sledge-ride.—Princess of
Mecklenburg.—Clerical Postman.—Whey-cure.—Grape-cure.—Rest.—
Rheingraffenstein.—Ebernburg.—Relics of Reformers.—French Cannon
Balls.—The Bingen of Poetry.—The Real Bingen.—Bishop Hatto’s Tower.—
Maüse-thurme.—Southey.—Ehrenfels.—Rudesheimer Vineyards.—Wine-making.—
Shallow Soil.—Johannisberg Vineyard.—The Rhine.—Mayence.—Printing.—
Guttenberg’s Statue.—Cathedral

232

CHAPTER XX.

PILGRIMAGE TO AIX-LA-CHAPELLE.

Tomb of Charlemagne.—The Dead Emperor.—Cathedral.—Consecration.—Holy
Shrine.—Healing Waters.—Palace.—Holy Relics.—Remarkable List.—
Septennial Exhibition.—Sultan of Turkey.—Crowd.—Order and Devotion.—
Sultan and Suite.—Stolidity.—Priests and Women.—A Crush.—Pageant
opened.—Procession.—The Relics.—Puseyite Priest.—On the Road to Rome.—
Superstition.—Pictures.—Virgin’s Garment.—Modern Style.—Holy Shirt.—
Other Relics.—Pilgrims.—Revenue.—Waters.—Fountain.—Music.—Invalids.—
Kurhaus.—Social Ease.—Baths.—Sulphur Water.—Antiquities.—Tower of
Granus.—Statue of Charlemagne.—Bust and Skull

245

CHAPTER XXI.

FRANKFORT.

Graveyard.—Childish Plays.—Cheerful Graves.—Grave of Goethe’s Mother.—
Inscription.—Lovely Sentiment.—Coffin of Goethe.—Wealthy Jew.—
Humiliation.—Ancient Glory.—Ariadne.—Elegant Cars.—Smokers.—Pine
Forests.—Women’s Rights.—Beer Drinking.—A Good Arrangement.—
Frankfort-on-the-Oder.—Krewz.—Dinner.—Gardens.—Scenery.—Nakal.—
Bromberg.—Wedges.—Attentive Servant.—Frontier.—Passports.—The
Vistula.—Poland.—Warsaw

264

CHAPTER XXII.

WARSAW.

Historic Legend.—The Jesuits.—Partition.—Last Insurrection.—Nationality
crushed out.—Attempted Insurrection.—Defeat.—Warsaw.—Armed Despotism.—
Discontent.—Precarious Prosperity.—Russian Rule and Language.—Fate of
a Spy.—Consequence.—Russian Soldiery.—Ill-manners.—Botanical Gardens.—
Observatory.—Palace.—Sobieski’s Monument.—Grave Error.—Illumination.—
Streets.—Drunkenness.—Climate.—Lutheran Church.—Relics of Romanism.—
Mendicants.—Jewish Quarter.—Hospital.—War of Religions.—Statue of the
Virgin.—Little Russia.—Funeral.—English Cock

273

CHAPTER XXIII.

FROM WARSAW TO ST. PETERSBURG.

Pretentious Hotel.—Splendid Bridge.—Polite Ticket-seller.—Cars.—
Prairie.—Wretched Peasantry.—Jews.—Railroad Employes.—Lapy.—Mother and
Son.—Bialystok.—Grodno.—Diet of Poland.—Last King of Poland.—Jewish
Holiday.—Lithuania.—Plains.—Napoleon’s Hill.—Monument.—Wilna.—Ruins.—
Insurrection.—Babel.—Dunaberg.—Captive.—Short Night.—Serfs.—Reform.—
Board of Arbitrators.—Emancipation.—Pskof.—Lady Smoker.—St. Petersburg

284

CHAPTER XXIV.

ST. PETERSBURG.

Searching Process.—Peculiar Costumes.—Rough Streets.—Russian Bath.—
Dinner.—Model Guide.—Elegant Diction.—Peter the Great.—Catharine I.—
Striking Contrasts.—Accommodating Weather.—Palace of the Emperor.—
Column of Alexander.—Statue of Peter the Great.—Boy Czars.—Peter’s
Lawyers.—Devotion.—Cathedral.—Trophies.—Isaac’s Cathedral.—Amazing
Splendor.—Worship.—Offerings.—Holy of Holies.—Behind the Scenes.—
Careful Husbands.—Greek and Romish Churches.—Lent.—Sabbath.—Exorcism.—
Honors paid the Virgin

293

CHAPTER XXV.

RUSSIAN ART, CUSTOMS, AND MANNERS.

Winter Palace.—Ways of Royalty.—Crown Jewels.—Orloff Diamond.—
Hermitage.—Art Galleries.—Curious Code of Laws.—Royal Museum.—Peter’s
Walking-stick.—Art Culture.—Condition of the Masses.—Laborers.—
Mechanics.—Prices.—Rent.—Food.—Dress.—Peculiar Custom.—Polite
Bankers.—Despot.—Justice.—Verdicts.—Story of Labanoff.—Siberia.—
Abuses.—Academy of Science.—Zoological Museum.—Sunset on the Neva.—
Boatman.—Light at Evening-tide

310

CHAPTER XXVI.

FROM ST. PETERSBURG TO MOSCOW.

American Engineers.—Sleeping Arrangements.—Newspapers.—Drama.—Courtesy.—
Lubanskaia.—Dinner.—Villages.—The Volga.—Murdered Bishop.—Sleeping
Car.—Ladder.—Russian Jargon.—Pathetic Appeal.—Board.—Refreshments.—
Greek Ecclesiastic.—Patriarch Nicon.—New Jerusalem.—Profanity.—
Tyranny.—Revolt.—Pope of the North.—Emperor’s Slight.—Nicon’s
Humility.—Banishment.—Patriarchates.—Dead Level.—Flight of Freedom

322

CHAPTER XXVII.

THE KREMLIN AND THE BELLS OF MOSCOW.

A Swiss Landlord.—Fleas.—Shrines.—Palaces, Cottages, and Churches.—The
Moskva.—Circular City.—Kremlin Walls.—Gates.—Chief Entrance.—Picture
of the Redeemer.—Respect.—Cannon.—Miracle.—Splendid Scene.—Tower of
Ivan.—Bells.—Medium of Worship.—Holy City.—Pilgrims.—Bell-making.—
Precious Metals.—Silver Bells.—Chapel of the Betrothed.—Music of the
Bells

330

CHAPTER XXVIII.

THE CHURCHES OF MOSCOW.

Cathedral of the Assumption.—Bones of the Patriarchs.—The Iconastasis.—
Sanctuary.—Archbishop’s Throne.—Coronation Ceremony.—Tombs.—Cathedral
of the Archangel Michael.—Religious Freedom.—Churches.—Cathedral of
St. Basil.—Archangel Cathedral.—Pilgrims.—Golgotha.—Sacristy.—
Religion.—Holy Oil.—Baptism.—Making of the Holy Chrism

340

CHAPTER XXIX.

PALACE AND INSTITUTIONS OF MOSCOW.

Royal Palace.—Empress’s Drawing-room.—Empress’s Cabinet.—Hall of St.
George.—Hall of St. Andrew.—Gold Court.—Napoleon’s Descent.—
Treasures.—Historical Curiosities.—Precious Orb.—Foundling Hospital.—
Mortality of Foundlings.—Orphan Asylum.—Sheep’s Clothing.—Harvest
Season.—Jews.—Peasants.—Riding School.—Wax-show.—Ethnological
Society.—Travel.—Sydney Smith’s Stick

350

CHAPTER XXX.

FROM MOSCOW TO ST. PETERSBURG.

Commercial Travellers.—Sparrow Hills.—Church of the Saviour.—Simonoff
Monastery.—Novo-Devichi Convent.—The Moskva.—A Holiday.—Napoleon’s
March.—Borodino.—Evacuation of Moscow.—French Enthusiasm.—Triumphal
Entry.—Surprise.—Incendiarism.—Return of the French.—Horrors of the
March.—Russian Barbarism.—Public Kissing.—From Moscow to St.
Petersburg.—Fussy Ladies.—Klin.—Dinner.—Tver.—Beggars.—Night without
Darkness.—The Fussy Ladies again.—Sunrise.—Marriage Customs

359

CHAPTER XXXI.

FINLAND.

Americans.—Cronstadt.—Fortifications.—Vessels.—Smoking.—Wyborg.—
Saw-mills.—Channel.—Ruined Tower.—Submission of Finland.—Religion.—
Government.—Harvests.—Famines.—Army.—Wages.—Fens.—Lakes and Islands.—
Drosky.—Huge Stones.—Excursion.—Eden in the North.—Serpent in the
Garden.—Long Bills.—Attentions paid Strangers.—A Finnish Lady.—
Fishermen.—A Killing Man.—Gulf of Finland.—Fredericksham.—Sclava.—Hard
Case.—Social Customs

371

CHAPTER XXXII.

Finland (_continued_).

Helsingfors.—Sweaborg.—Fortified Islands.—Society House.—Ducal Palace.—
Finnish Gentlemen.—Senate House.—University.—Observatory.—Library.—
Literature.—Kalewala.—Schiller and Shakespeare.—Language.—Congress.—
Coats of Arms.—Botanical Garden.—House of Refreshment.—Health
Establishment.—Mineral Fountain.—Rocky Islands.—Fishing.—Peasantry.—
Abo.—Hotel.—Good Manners.—Castle.—Cathedral.—Tombs.—Conflagration.—
Carriole.—Kibitka.—Bondkara.—Finns

383

CHAPTER XXXIII.

SWEDEN.

Harbor of Abo.—Swedish Customs.—Eating and Drinking.—Climate.—The
Baltic.—Stockholm.—Porters.—Hotel Rydburg.—Pleasant Quarters.—
Scandinavia.—Odin.—Sagas.—Christianity.—Lutheran Religion.—King.—
Congress.—Hospital.—Physicians.—Clergymen.—Education.—Religious
Toleration.—The Press.—Cost of Living.—Vice.—The Riddarholm’s Kyrkan.—
Tomb of Gustavus Adolphus.—Reformation.—Royal Palace.—Picture
Gallery.—Library.—Codex Aureus.—King of Sweden.—Mimic War.—Standing
Army.—Order.—Thieves

394

CHAPTER XXXIV.

Sweden (_continued_).

Drottningholm.—Lake Malar.—Sigtuna.—Odin.—Superstition.—Pirates.—Rural
Life.—Professor Olivecrona.—Islands.—Chateau.—Commercial Life.—
Manuscripts.—University of Upsala.—Codex Argenteus.—Icelandic
Literature.—Standard of Education.—Students.—Costume.—Cathedral.—
Statue of Thor.—Old Upsala.—Mora Stone.—Mass Meetings.—Graves of Pagan
Deities.—Temple of Odin.—Ancient Tower.—Battle-field of Faith.—Deer
Park Restaurant.—Social Customs.—Swedish Homes.—Content.—Moral
Progress

409

CHAPTER XXXV.

Sweden (_continued_).

Steam Canal.—The Oscar.—View of Stockholm.—Sodertelje.—St. Olaf.—The
Gota Canal.—Castles and Legends.—Soderkoping.—Tavern Breakfast.—
Sabbath in Sweden.—Church.—Costumes.—Service.—Snuffing and Nasal
Singing.—Watering-place.—Physician.—College of Health.—Baths.—Mineral
Waters.—Emigration.—Lodging and Board

423

CHAPTER XXXVI.

Sweden (_continued_).

On the Gota Canal again.—Working-girl.—Lake Asplagen.—Swedish
Professor.—Lake Roxen.—Berg.—The Vetra-Kloster.—Graveyard.—Tombs of
the Douglases.—School-house.—Dinner on the Canal.—Crops.—Lock-keeper.—
Lake Boren.—Motala.—Iron-works.—Lake Wetter.—Wadstena.—Pea-crop.—
Peasantry.—Labor.—Cold.—Sunset.—Forsvik.—Russian Gentleman.—Lake
Wenner.—Trout.—Falls of Trollhatten.—River.—Unfortunate Sailor.—
Collection.—Hongfel Castle.—Gottenburg.—Cheap Lodgings.—Museum.—Daily
News.—Training House for Servants.—Philanthropy

433

CHAPTER XXXVII.

NORWAY.

Embarkation.—Breakfast.—Skager-rack and Cattegat.—Freidericksvern.—
Christiania.—Hotel du Nord.—Flowers and Fountains.—Stove.—Norwegian
Breakfast.—Museum.—Superstition.—Duel of the Girdle.—Bridal
Ornaments.—Heathen Relics.—Learning and Letters.—Lake Mjosen.—English
Commercial Traveller.—Boat Library.—Sportsmen.—Church.—Fat Pastor.—
Remnants of Popery.—Costumes.—The Lord’s Supper.—Service.—Devotion and
Reverence.—Oneness of the Church.—Lillehammer.—Cheap Living.—Cripple.—
Christiania.—Carriole.—Post Horses and Boys.—Agershaus.—Robin Hood of
Norway.—Benevolent Institutions.—Grave of Bradshaw

447

CHAPTER XXXVIII.

DENMARK.

Skager-rack and Cattegat.—Magnificent Sunset.—Elsinore.—Toll.—House of
Tycho Brahe.—Kronborg.—Treaty of Vienna.—Danish Giant.—
Fortifications.—Hamlet’s Grave.—True History.—Royal Castle.—Queen of
Christian II.—Touching Prayer.—Royal Forest.—Castle of Peace.—
Denmark.—Her History.—Valdemar II.—Schleswig-Holstein.—Christianity.—
General Intelligence.—Education.—Copenhagen.—Thorvaldsen’s Museum.—
Statues.—Vanity.—Hall of Christ.—Gems and Bronzes.—Vor Frue Kirke.—
Religion and Art.—Church Service.—Baptism.—Love of Amusement.—
Theatres.—Public Gardens.—Museum.—Ruins.—Monuments.—South American
Gentleman.—Zealand.—Fleas.—Kiel.—Elmshorn.—Home Again

462

SPAIN.