Chapter II: Letter I: Dress

PROPRIETY of conforming to Fashion, with a due Regard for
individual Peculiarities of Appearance--Eccentricity of Taste
in Dress--Obedience to the Laws of Convention--The vagaries of
Genius, in this respect--Absurdity and Affectation originated
by the Example of Byron--All indifference and neglect to be
avoided, with regard to Dress--Anecdote of Dr. Johnson and the
Siddons--Porson, the Greek Scholar--Horace Greeley--Aphorism--
Habits of a distinguished Parisian _savant_--Example and opinion
of Washington with reference to Dress--Partiality of Americans
for Black, as the color of dress-clothes--Practice of Men in
other Countries, in the selection of Colors--Morning Costume of
an English Gentleman--Every English Gentleman usefully employed
during a Portion of each Day--Dr. Johnson's Test of good Taste
in Dress--The golden mean in Matters of Dress--Ceremonious
Costume of a Gentleman--Mode of wearing the Hair and Beard--
Necessity for artistic Taste in one's Barber--All extremes of
Fashion in bad Taste--Various Absurdities in this respect,
inconsistent with the "keeping" of modern Costume--Collars,
their size, shape, &c.--Sleeve-buttons--Bad taste of wearing
flash Stones--Use of Diamonds In Dress--Simplicity in the
Appendages of Dress, the characteristic of true refinement--
Signet-rings--Distinctive Points of difference between the
exterior of a Gentleman and of a Loafer--All staring
patterns in Gentlemen's clothes exceptionable--A white suit
throughout, for warm Weather--Thin Cravats--Body Linen--
Kotzebue's test of high-breeding--Strength and Comfort
the essential Characteristics of working Garments--Fitness
and propriety even in matters of Dress, indicative of a
well-regulated Mind--Every American should aim to be a true
Gentleman--Importance of Trifles, when viewed in the
aggregate--Influence of Dress, etc., upon Character and
Manner--Wearing Gloves in Dancing--White Gloves alone
unexceptionable for ceremonious Evening Occasions--Gloves
suitable for the Street and Morning Visits--Bright-colored
Gloves in bad _ton_--Illustrative Anecdote--Over-Garments--
Variety sanctioned by Fashion--Becomingness of different
Styles--Inconvenience and ill-appearance of Shawls--When
Suitable--South American Poncho--Anecdote--New reading of
Lord Nelson's celebrated Naval Orders--Difference between
Talking and Writing, the Author's Apology for numerous
Defects--The Mill-boy of the Slashes--The Author unacquainted
with the Elegancies of modern Fashionable Nomenclature--Terms
of agreement between the Author and his Correspondents, 25