Chapter II: Part 2

On the evening of the 26th and on the 27th, in consequence of the Franco-American push threatening, from the east and south, Fère-en-Tardenois, with its vital network of roads and railways, the Germans again retreated, this time on a larger scale, to the south of the Ourcq and north of the Marne. They were pursued by the Allies who, on the evening of the 27th, lined the Ourcq as far as Fère and, to the north of the Marne, occupied the line: Champvoisy, Passy-Grigny, Cuisles, La Neuville-aux-Larris, Chaumuzy; the British capturing Bligny. French mounted patrols pushed forward to the line Villers-Agron, Romigny, Ville-en-Tardenois, where the enemy trenches, lined with machine-guns, seemed to indicate that a stand was to be made.

On the 28th, the 62nd Division, in _liaison_ on its right with the 42nd American Division, entered Fère-en-Tardenois. Meanwhile, north of the Marne, Franco-American forces made good progress in the region of St. Croix and near Neuville Castle. On the extreme right the Germans were driven across the Vesle.

Withdrawing their exhausted divisions, the enemy, from the 28th to the 30th, engaging six fresh divisions, supported by numerous machine-guns, made vigorous counter-attacks which retarded the Franco-American advance. Only little progress was made on the 29th between Le Plessier-Huleu and the Ourcq, the extreme points reached being Saponay and Seringes. However, in the centre, the Ourcq was crossed from Fère to Ronchères.

From Ronchères to Vrigny progress was again very slow. On the 30th and 31st the Germans counter-attacked north of Fère and in the valley of the Ardre, where they burnt Poilly Village. However, the Americans captured Cierges, while the French made progress towards Nesles Wood and in Meunière Wood.

AMERICAN UNITS ENGAGED FROM JULY 26 TO 29, 1918.

WITH GENERAL DEGOUTTE’S ARMY.

=1st Corps= (_see composition, p. 27_).

The 26th Division was relieved by the:

=42nd Division= =Major-General Chas. T. Menoher.=

comprising:

_83rd Infantry Brigade_ _Brig.-Gen. M. J. Lenihan_
_84th_ “ “ “ “ _Robert A. Brown_
_67th Artillery_ “ “ “ _C. McKinstry_
*/

=4th Division= (_see composition, p. 27_).

Crossed the Ourcq on July 28 and fought desperate combats to the north of that river.

WITH GENERAL DE MITRY’S ARMY.

=32nd Division= =Major-General William G. Haan=.

comprising:

_63rd Infantry Brigade_ _Brig.-Gen. W. D. Connor_
_64th_ “ “ “ “ _Ed. B. Winans_
_57th Artillery_ “ “ “ _Le Roy G. Irwin_

=28th Division= =Major-General Charles H. Muir.=

comprising:

_55th Infantry Brigade_ _Brig.-Gen. T. W. Darrah_
_56th_ “ “ “ “ _Wm. Weigel_
_53rd Artillery_ “ “ “ _Wm. G. Price_

The forces continued the pursuit of the retreating enemy.

Commanding the 3rd Corps.]

The Offensive of August 1.

Having established themselves on high dominating positions forming a strong line of resistance, the Germans believed they would now be able to check the Allies, who, after fifteen days of hard fighting, would, no doubt, be exhausted. In a semi-official _communiqué_ addressed to the German people, Hinderburg explained and justified his “strategical retreat” and again promised victory, adding that the “decisive blow” had only been “temporarily postponed.”

He was soon undeceived, however, supposing him to have been sincere. On August 1, the battle began again, north of the Ourcq and at the gates of Soissons. The Armies of Generals Mangin and Degoutte, so far from being exhausted, attacked again between Tigny and the Ourcq, their objective being to outflank and carry the wooded Hartennes Plateau, which formed the key to the defences of Soissons in front of the Crise Stream. In the Tigny-Hartennes region violent barrage and machine-gun fire somewhat retarded the Allies’ advance. Between Plessier-Huleu Wood and Saponay the enemy resisted and counter-attacked violently. However, progress was made as far as the line: Grand-Rozoy, Cramaille, south-west of Saponay, and, further to the east, Cierges, Meunière Wood, Goussancourt and Romigny. On the right the Armies of Generals de Mitry and Berthelot, continuing their advance, progressed beyond the Dormans-Rheims road, encircled Ville-en-Tardenois, and advanced along the Valley of the Ardre.

Hartennes fell on August 2, and Mangin pressed forward towards the Crise. Von Boehn’s army fell back for the fourth time, the retreat now being general. Soissons was evacuated, and in spite of enemy detachments of machine-gunners left behind to retard the Allies’ advance, the Chasseurs of the 2nd Division entered the city at 6 p.m. The Crise was crossed throughout its length before nightfall, Ville-en-Tardenois captured, and in the evening the following line reached: Soissons, Branges, Tramery, Romigny, Gueux and Thillois.

The Germans hurriedly fell back on the Vesle, but the Allies harried them vigorously and threw their rear-guard into disorder. On the evening of the 3rd the pursuing armies reached the River Aisne as far as Sermoise, the southern bank of the Vesle from Ciry-Salsogne to Villesavoye, the southern outskirts of Fismes, the Villages of Branscourt, Sapicourt, Courcelles, Rosnay and Gueux-Thillois, and the Aisne Canal north of Courcelles.

On August 4 detachments crossed to the north bank of the Vesle at various points, on which river the enemy was apparently determined to make a firm stand, especially between Unchair and Fismes which, however, the Americans and the French (32nd Division) captured. On the 5th the Germans had only two bridgeheads south of the Vesle, one at Courlandon and the other to the east of Muizon, but they stubbornly resisted the Allies’ attempts to cross the river, re-engaging several of their best divisions. Nevertheless the Allies succeeded on the 7th in gaining a footing on the north bank, east of Braine and Bazoches, and strongly occupied both banks of the river.

The counter-offensive was over. On August 6th Foch was made Marshal of France, Pétain received the Military Medal (the second highest recompense for French commanders), while the Grand Croix de la Légion d’Honneur was conferred on General Pershing.

Commanding the 28th Division.]

=AMERICAN UNITS ENGAGED FROM AUGUST 1
TO SEPTEMBER 7, 1918.=

=WITH GENERAL DEGOUTTE’S ARMY.=

=1st Corps= (_see composition_, p. 27).

The 42nd Division was relieved by the 4th (_see composition_, p. 27) on August 3.

The 4th was relieved by the 77th Division:

=77th Division= =Major-General George B. Duncan.=

comprising:

_153rd Infantry Brigade_ _Brig.-Gen. E. Wittenmeyer_
_154th_ “ “ “ “ _E. M. Johnson_
_152nd Artillery_ _Colonel Manus McCloskey_

The 1st Corps, which crossed the Vesle on August 6, was withdrawn from the front on August 13. In twenty days it had advanced twenty miles and combated twelve different enemy divisions.

Commanding the 32nd Division.]

=WITH GENERAL DE MITRY’S ARMY.=

=3rd Corps = =Major-General Robert L. Bullard.=

comprising:

28th Division (_see composition, p. 32._)
32nd “ _ “ “ p. 32._
3rd “ _ “ “ p. 13._
77th “ _ “ “ p. 35._

After establishing bridge-heads north of the Vesle, the 3rd Corps was withdrawn
from the front on September 8.

=Mentioned in the French Army Order of the Day.=

=302nd Regiment of Engineers=: “_Under the command of Colonel Sherill this regiment, on September 6, 1918, built a bridge in three hours across the Vesle under artillery fire, thus allowing the French artillery to cross the river at the beginning of the operations, contributing thereby to the success of the offensive."_

The Results of the Allies’ Counter-Offensive.

In three weeks the Germans had lost all their gains of May 27th to July 15th, the Crown Prince’s salient made at terrible cost was flattened out, while the Allies’ captures included more than 18,000 German prisoners and 700 guns.

The French reserves, so far from being entirely used to make good the losses in the ranks of the line troops, as the German High Command believed, had taken the counter-offensive. Only a very small portion (two divisions) of the British reserves had taken part in the battle. Conversely, the Bavarian reserves had been rushed up from the region of Lille to the Aisne. Finally, whilst Ludendorff was compelled to give up his projected offensive in Flanders, Foch began a new battle between the Oise and the sea. The second battle of the Marne had thus far-reaching consequences. From that time until the Armistice, when they capitulated, the Germans were everywhere out-manœuvred and beaten.

In the course of the battle the aeroplanes and tanks vied with the infantry in valour and intrepidity. From July 15 to 20, French, British and American aviators attacked the enemy unceasingly, flying in all weathers, sometimes in violent storms, as on July 17. In less than a week, in addition to the losses inflicted on the enemy infantry and artillery, the Allied aviation services destroyed or drove down out of control 137 German aeroplanes and 23 observation balloons, besides dropping 222 tons of bombs on enemy objectives.

The French tanks, on their side, performed wonders, causing great havoc and spreading demoralisation in the enemy ranks.

One disabled tank-driver (Corporal Chevrel) surrounded by Germans held out for thirty-six hours, while another (Corporal Cellier), with the help of fifteen Americans, captured 700 Germans, including fourteen officers and a colonel, and two guns.

Commanding the 42nd Division.]

The Allied troops, fighting shoulder to shoulder with the French “poilus,” had a brilliant share in the victory. The British distinguished themselves by their splendid resistance on the St. Thierry Heights, the 15th Scottish Division covering itself with glory by storming and capturing Buzancy, south of Soissons.

The Italian 2nd Corps successfully defended the approaches of the Mountain of Rheims and distinguished itself in the defence of Bligny Hill.

America’s young troops, who were the last to join in the battle, fought admirably, eight of their divisions co-operating with the armies of Generals Mangin, Degoutte and De Mitry in the battle and pursuit.

In paying this just tribute to the valour of all the Allies, it should not be forgotten that the second victory of the Marne, like the first, was a glorious manifestation of French genius and heroism.

_TRIBUTE TO THREE CHIEFS._

Awarded the Grand’ Croix de la Légion d’Honneur August 6, 1918.

“_ ... you arrived on the battlefield at the decisive hour...._”
]

Promoted Maréchal de France August 6, 1918.

“_ ... the confidence placed in the victor at the Marshes of
Saint-Gond and the glorious commander on the Yser and Somme, was
fully justified...._”
]

Awarded the Médaille Militaire August 6, 1918.

“_ ... breaking and driving back the German onrush, he acquired
imperishable right to the nation’s gratitude...._”
]

A VISIT TO THE BATTLEFIELDS

From Paris the tour can be easily made in three days.

=1st day.=--Paris--Château-Thierry--Belleau Wood.

=2nd day.=--Château-Thierry--Soissons.

=3rd day.=--Soissons--Fismes--Paris.

The roads are shown on the Michelin Map of France (scale, 1:200.000, _or about 3.15 miles per inch_), sheets Nos. 11 and 6.

DESCRIPTION OF THE TOUR.

(_See outline map, p. 39._)

The following itinerary includes practically all the places in the battle area where the troops of the 1st and 3rd American Army Corps distinguished themselves.

In May, 1919, deeply moving traces of the fierce fighting were visible all along the road, and will probably long continue to exist.

The ruined villages are as the shells and bombs left them. Everywhere are branchless trees and stumps, shell craters roughly filled in, trenches, barbed wire entanglements, and shelters for men and ammunition. Thousands of shells, shell casings, rifles, gun-limbers, and machine-guns lie scattered about.

Corpses are occasionally seen.

Before the War this part of the country was one of the prettiest and most interesting in France. In nearly every village there was either an old church, a castle, or ruins of archæological interest.

1st day.--PARIS--CHÂTEAU-THIERRY.

_Leave Paris by the Avenue Jean Jaurès, Pantin Gate, and the National Road N. 3._

(_At the Toll-Gate ask for a “bon de réintroduction” (free) for the gasoline in the tank and reserve tins. This will enable the tourist, on his return, to enter Paris with a similar quantity of gasoline free of charge._)

N. 3 goes straight ahead and is easy to follow, the “milestones” being plainly marked “N. 3.”

The localities of Pantin, Bondy, Livry, Villeparisis, and Claye are successively passed through, =Meaux= being afterwards reached by the Route de Paris and the Rue du Faubourg St. Remi.

(See the =Michelin Illustrated Guide=, “=The Battle of the Marne, 1914=,” _for directions for visiting this beautiful, historical city, and for a detailed description of the fighting in this sector_.)

_Turn to the right, pass under the railway bridge, continue straight along the Rue St. Remi, skirt the Cathedral, then follow the Rue St. Nicolas and the Rue du Faubourg St. Nicolas._

The following villages are next passed through without difficulty: Trilport, St. Jean-les-deux-Jumeaux and Sammeron, after which the tourist arrives at La Ferté-sous-Jouarre. _Turn to the left into the Rue de Condé, and again to the left into the Rue du Faubourg, cross the Marne, and continue straight ahead along the Rue du Pelletier and Rue du Limon. Crossing over the railway the road turns to the right, rising above the valley of the Marne._ Montreuil is next passed through.

Just before entering =Le Thiolet= (the first ruined village on the tour), along the left side of the road, there is an American Cemetery.

Shortly after, =Vaux= is reached, but before coming to it, another American Cemetery will be seen to the left of the road.

This village, which is situated in a hollow, was literally wiped out (photo, p. 60). The ruins in the bottom of the valley, to the right of the road, are most impressive. (_The tourist will visit them on his way to Essommes, as per the Itinerary._)

The road skirts =Hill 204=, which dominates the surrounding country on the right, and which was hotly disputed (p. 62).

Before passing under the railway bridge, on the high ground to the right, will be seen the ruins of what was once the pretty village of =Courteau=.

Château-Thierry is reached soon afterwards by the Avenue Clemenceau.

CHÂTEAU-THIERRY DURING THE WAR.

September, 1914.

On September 2, 1914, the town was almost encircled by the Germans. While the German batteries posted above Courteau (_the tourist passed by this village before entering the town, see above_) were firing on the railway station and the Place-du-Champ-de-Mars, their troops debouched by the Essommes and Paris roads at about five in the afternoon. The French fell back at 11 p.m. On September 3, German troops pillaged the town. On the 9th, the Franco-British troops relieved the town.

June--July, 1918.

On June 1, 1918, the town was retaken by the German Conta Corps, after fierce street fighting, in which the French Colonial Infantry, gallantly supported by American troops, inflicted severe losses on the enemy. The defence of Château-Thierry is one of the episodes of which the Americans are justly proud.

On May 31, sections of the American Machine-Gun Corps were placed at the disposal of the French Commander, who was defending the town, which was in danger of being outflanked. They were hardly out of the trucks, when they were rushed into the battle in support of the French Colonials.

Throughout the long street fighting their fine marksmanship, cool courage and clever manœuvring excited the admiration of their French comrades. When night fell, thanks to their aid, the enemy had been forced back to the outskirts of the town.

At 9 p.m. on June 1, the Germans, under cover of night, and protected by a dense smoke screen, counter-attacked, creeping along the river-side towards the great bridge, the defence of which had been entrusted to the Americans, with orders to hold it until the Colonials, who were fighting on the far side of the river, should fall back. This they did until the last of the French troops had passed over, when they withdrew. When the Germans debouched in front of the bridge, the latter blew up, and the few who had succeeded in crossing before the explosion were taken prisoners by the Americans, who had calmly posted their guns on the south bank of the river.

Throughout June and the first half of July, stiff fighting took place around the town, especially in =Courteau Wood= at the top of Hill 204. After being retaken by the Allies on June 6, this hill was constantly disputed, and repeatedly changed hands. The Germans, who were preparing their offensive of July 15, between Château-Thierry and Rheims, attached great importance to this position, which covered their right flank and dominated Château-Thierry. From July onwards the Allies, by a series of local operations, approached the town. On the night of July 1-2, the Americans captured the village of Vaux (_which the tourist passed through before entering Château-Thierry_), taking 400 prisoners belonging to the 201st German division. Enemy counter-attacks failed to win back the village.

The Americans also advanced to the east of Hill 204, and finally recaptured it on July 9 during a night attack.

The Allies’ successful counter-offensive of July 18 completely cleared Château-Thierry. On July 21, with their front pierced on the north and east, the enemy was forced to abandon the town, which was then entered by General Degoutte’s Army.

CHÂTEAU-THIERRY PLUNDERED BY THE GERMANS.

When the Franco-American troops entered Château-Thierry, the town had been methodically =sacked=. The enemy emptied the houses of everything portable, including mattresses, metallic articles, etc. The churches were likewise despoiled. In the case of St. Crépin’s Church the Germans had not time to carry off the whole of the plunder. The photograph, p. 43, shows what was hurriedly left behind, part being packed in cases, the rest, including a fireman’s brass helmet stolen from the fire-station, lying scattered about.

(_From “l’Illustration._”)]

That portion of the population which had remained in the town was locked up in this church on the night before the deliverance.

The houses had literally been turned upside down, as the Americans, who entered the town with the French, can testify. Packing-cases full of clothing, linen, and all kinds of objects had been got ready to send to Germany, as the labels nailed on the cases prove. (_See official photos._)

What the Germans could not carry away they broke, mutilated, or spoilt. Here was another example of their practice of spreading systematic ruin and desolation wherever they went.

To use the ex-Kaiser’s own expression, the entire region was left “a barren waste.” Special detachments of troops had orders to collect and remove all machinery, tools, raw materials, furniture, food, etc., in the districts occupied.

VISIT TO THE TOWN.

(_For particulars of the hotels, repair mechanics, etc., see inside of cover._)

Dominated on the North by the ruined towers of its ancient castle, Château-Thierry lies in the valley, between the wooded sides of which winds the River Marne.

_Entering the town by the Avenue Clemenceau, keep straight on along the Promenade-de-la-Levée, which leads to the Champ-de-Mars Square._

From here can be seen the ruins of a fine stone =bridge=, built by Perronet in 1768, of which only a single arch remains. The others have been temporarily replaced by a foot-way.

In front is a statue (by Laitié, 1824) of La Fontaine, the fabulist; the lower part of the left leg was broken by a shell splinter.

The photograph below shows the destroyed bridge, and the Rue Carnot which continues it. The Route de Montmirail (now Avenue du Président Poincaré) is visible in the background, as also are barricades placed by the Franco-Americans across the Rue Carnot.

(_From “l’Illustration._”)]

_To the left of the Place du Champ-de-Mars, and in the direction of the Hôtel-de-Ville, take the Rue du Maréchal Pétain._

On the right of this street is the =Belhan Tower= (Belfry), which was formerly part of the Belhan Mansion (16th century). At the end of the Rue du Maréchal Pétain, the =Hôtel-de-Ville= (of which the Palais is Renaissance) comes into view. One of the turrets was destroyed by the bombardments, while shell splinters have scarred the building. The immediate surroundings suffered greatly from shell-fire. The photo below shows the Rue du Maréchal Pétain in perspective.

The first enemy line of resistance was established at the entrance to this street, in front of No. 27. Behind, barricades of paving stones and earth were raised (see photo), the largest of which closed the end of the street, making it possible to pass unseen from the Place de l’Hôtel-de-Ville to the Rue du Général Degoutte.

On the right of this photo is seen the commencement of the Rue du Général Degoutte.

In the background is seen a barricade.

(_From “l’Illustration._”)]

To visit the =Castle=, _go up the wide steps on the left of the Hôtel-de-Ville_, which lead to the Ramparts. The panoramic view above was taken from these stairs.

In the foreground are seen: the Hôtel-de-Ville with its damaged turret, the Hôtel-de-Ville Square (where the market is held), the Belfry, and the Rue du Maréchal Pétain.

_At the top of the steps, turn to the right and follow the ramparts as far as the entrance to the Park (photo below). Enter the latter_, which occupies the entire site of the old castle, and go round it, to get a general view of the town and outskirts. To visit the subterranean passages, _apply to the keeper at the small lodge in the middle of the park_.

_On leaving the park turn to the left_ to get a view of the Old Entrance to the Castle, which consists of a pointed arch flanked by two large circular towers (photo p. 64).

_Return to the Entrance Gate of the Park, then to the Hôtel-de-Ville_, via _the Rue du Château_, in which is St. John’s Hospital (or Hôtel-Dieu), founded by Jeanne, Queen of France and Navarre, in 1304, and rebuilt in 1876.

_On arriving at the Hôtel-de-Ville, cross the Square, and follow the Rue du Général Degoutte._

On the left are the Rue Dirigeon l’Ecart and the Rue Lefèvre-Maugras, which were also barricaded by the Germans.

On the right of the Rue du Général Degoutte is the steep Rue Jean-de-la-Fontaine, No. 13 being the house where the author of the celebrated fables was born.

_Continue along the Rue du Général Degoutte, cross the Avenue du Maréchal Joffre, then take the_ Rue St. Crépin, in which is the =church= of that name. It was in this church that the Germans left behind a great quantity of booty during their hurried retreat. (See photo, p. 43.)

Its heavy square tower, with carved buttresses, is 15th century. The organ-loft, decorated with figures of the prophetesses and others, is 16th century.

The Rue St. Alpin is continued by the Rue St. Martin, which was sacked by the Germans. The photograph below was taken at No. 26.

The visit to the town finishes at the end of the Rue St. Martin, _i.e._ at the junction of this street with the Avenue Clemenceau.

The excursion to Belleau Wood, described on page 49, starts from here.

(_Note for visitors arriving by train.--Leave the station by the Avenue de la Gare, turn to the left into the Avenue de la République, follow the latter as far as the Place Carnot, take the Rue Carnot (on the right of the square), at the end of which is the bridge over the Marne, where the itinerary above mentioned joins up._)

VISIT TO BELLEAU WOOD.

It was in the region that the tourist is about to visit that the Americans performed, at heavy cost, one of their most glorious feats of arms. The many graves seen on the way make the journey a veritable pilgrimage.

_Leaving Château-Thierry by the Avenue Clemenceau (N. 3), pass under the railway bridge_, taking another glance at the completely destroyed hamlet of Courteau on the left. At the top of the stiff rise, _leave the main road (which runs to the left), and go straight along G.C. 9 towards Belleau and Torcy_. On the left the road skirts the Roches Wood, where many shell-torn trees are lying on the ground. Numerous shell-holes are visible on either side of the road.

The farm-houses around here are in ruins. The clumps of trees, alternated with fields, which skirt the road, all bear marks of heavy shelling. Shelters will be noticed all along the road. _Leave on the right the “Chemin Vicinal” (poor condition), leading to_ Etrepilly, which the Americans attacked and captured on July 20, 1918.

At about 2-1/2 miles from the fork where the tourist left the N. 3, =Hill 190= becomes plainly visible on the right. It is a bare eminence, full of shell holes. The panorama on pages 50, 51 was taken from there.

(_To reach Hill 190, leave the car at “milestone” No. 4, where the road, at the edge of a small wood, begins to descend. After following a hawthorn hedge for about five minutes the top of the hill will be reached._)

In the above photograph (from left to right) are seen: the village of =Bouresches=, between two small hills; =Belleau Wood=, in the middle; the villages of =Belleau= and =Torcy=; and the hamlet of =Givry= on the right.

This region was grimly defended on June 1, 1918, by the “Devil’s Regiment,” as the Germans surnamed the 152nd French line regiment, on account of its daring exploits. Outflanked on June 2, this regiment was forced to withdraw from Torcy and Belleau to =Belleau Wood=, which was abandoned only after a heroic defence, and when the position was on the point of being turned. On June 3, after reforming behind the line of support furnished by the Americans, they counter-attacked Belleau Wood, advanced in spite of fierce counter-attacks by the enemy, and held all gains until night-fall, when they were relieved by the Americans. On June 7, =Bouresches= was retaken by the Allies. On the 8th, the Americans repulsed a violent attack extending from Belleau Wood to Le Thiolet, along a two-mile front. On the 9th, they broke up a new German attack near Bouresches. From June 10 to 26, fierce fighting enabled them to improve their positions. On the latter date they took 240 prisoners south of Torcy and 264 in Belleau Wood. On the 25th, they completed the capture of this wood.

THE CAPTURE OF BELLEAU WOOD.

It was on June 3, 1918, that the Americans took over the Belleau Wood sector. Like the Priest Wood near Pont-à-Mousson, Grurie Wood in Argonne, and the Sabot Wood in Champagne, Belleau Wood has become famous. The broken, rocky ground lends itself naturally to defence, and, by filling it with machine-guns, the Germans had made it well-nigh impregnable.

The attack was begun on June 10, 1918, by the American Marine Brigade--the first of Uncle Sam’s units to land in France (June 27, 1917)--300 prisoners being taken. Operations were successfully continued on the 13th, when a powerful German counter-attack, with orders to drive out the Americans at all cost, was repulsed with heavy enemy loss.

It was from Belleau Wood that, on July 18, 1918, the 26th American Division, which formed the pivot of General Degoutte’s army, set out on the Great Counter-Offensive. Its eagerness was such that it had to be restrained, to allow the wings to reach their assigned positions.

Its first objective was the Torcy-Belleau-Bouresches line (held by first-class German troops: the famous 1st and 4th Guards and 6th Bavarians), which was carried in a single rush. Organizing the conquered ground, it there awaited the signal to advance on =Etrepilly=, given on July 20 by General Degoutte. (_This village, which is situated on the farther side of Hill 190, is not visible from where the tourist stands. The road G. C. 9, leading thither, was crossed on the way to Hill 190._) The attack on Etrepilly, which was to relieve the French (tenaciously opposed to the north of Belleau), was executed with great vigour and ability, according to General Degoutte’s report.

Three guns, one bomb-thrower, numerous machine-guns, and 200 prisoners were taken, while the advance forced the Germans to abandon their positions in front of the French lines.

After much bitter, indecisive fighting, and a further attack on the 26th, which resulted in the capture of 264 prisoners, the final assault was made on the 29th. Two battalions deployed in four lines of sharpshooters, fifty yards apart, closely followed by the storming columns in waves, broke through the German positions after fierce bayonet fighting. The enemy redoubts

were surrounded and reduced after hard hand-to-hand fighting. The Americans, who had left off their coats and rolled up their shirt-sleeves, advanced resolutely in spite of heavy losses.

The capture of this formidable position by the Marine Brigade won the warmest praise from Marshals Foch and Pétain, and the heartfelt thanks of the Mayor of Meaux, which city was thus saved from the enemy. The French High Command decided that the wood should henceforth be called: The Wood of the American Marine Brigade.

_Return to the car and continue towards the village of Belleau._

On the left side of the road are shelters for sharpshooters and machine-guns.

_At the cross-roads, near the entrance to Belleau, a road branching off the G. C. 9, to the right, leads into the village._

At this crossing there is an American cemetery.

On the left, a road which skirts Belleau Wood, leads to =Bouresches=. About a mile from the crossing, along this road, there is another American cemetery. On the right of the graves, an uphill road leads to the wood, in which traces of the hard fighting are still visible--trenches, shelters, barbed wire entanglements, branchless trees, shell holes, etc.

A little further on, in the direction of Bouresches, is another American cemetery.

After visiting that part of the wood which overlooks Belleau, _return to the cross-roads and enter that village._

_Descend as far as the_ Castle, which was badly damaged. Behind is the Church, also in ruins. _In front of the Castle turn to the left, take the first road on the right towards_ =Torcy=, _skirting the park_, the walls and trees of which have been badly damaged. Torcy, entirely in ruins, is reached shortly after.

_Continue as far as what was the_ 13th century church, now a heap of ruins. The cemetery is a picture of desolation, the Germans having blown up the underground vaults, which dated from the Middle-Ages.

From the cemetery there is a pretty view of the valley. The photograph below was taken from beyond the cemetery, in the old square now in ruins.

_Retracing his steps, the tourist should take the uphill road visible on the left of the photograph above, which he crossed before arriving at the church, and return to G. C. 9. At the intersection of these two roads is a_ large shed, the iron framework of which was torn and twisted by shell fire. _Turn to the right and follow G. C._ 9 _towards_ Bussiares.

Before coming to Bussiares, the Tuilerie Farm, situated on a tiny hill to the left, comes into view.

At the foot of this hill are German graves. The trenches and shelters on its sides were heavily shelled.

=Bussiares= was less severely damaged than Torcy.

_After crossing the village take the first road on the right towards_ Hautevesnes. There are some French graves at the side of the road near the fork. _Cross the railway (level crossing) and the bridge over the small river Clignon_, which run side by side. Before coming to Hautevesnes the road passes through shell-torn woods.

=Hautevesnes= was entirely destroyed.

_Cross the village, keeping a straight line towards_ the village of =St. Gengoulph=, whose ruined church is at the top of a small hill on the right (photo above).

_Leave St. Gengoulph on the right, without entering it, and a little beyond the hill above-mentioned, turn to the right into the I. C. 34 towards Chevillon._

=Chevillon= was badly damaged. On leaving the village, the remains of numerous trenches and shelters will be noticed on the left, while, in the surrounding fields, thousands of shells have been collected into heaps.

At the entrance to Chevillon, on the left of the road, there is an American cemetery containing 240 graves of soldiers who fell on July 18, 1918 (photo below).

_After visiting Chevillon, return to I. C. 34, which follow, leaving St. Gengoulph on the left._

_Shortly afterwards, turn to the left and descend to the_ badly-damaged village of =Vinly= (photo, p. 57). _Turn to the left towards_ Veuilly-la-Poterie. _Cross the river Clignon and the railway (level-crossing), continuing straight along the village, which visit._

The view below was taken a few hundred yards from the level crossing.

_Return to the railway, then turn to the right into G. C. 9, which runs alongside the railway, on the right._

=Veuilly-la-Poterie= was taken by the Germans, but on debouching from it they were checked by the Americans, who prevented further progress.

Passing through Eloup and Bussiares, the tourist arrives shortly afterwards at the ruined shed previously seen opposite Torcy (p. 55).

This region was bitterly disputed. On June 6, a Franco-American attack against the Veuilly-Bussiares line gave 270 prisoners, and the Americans advanced a mile towards Torcy. Veuilly-la-Poterie was retaken on the 7th and Eloup on the 8th, the Americans beating off all counter-attacks. On the 9th the Bois d’Eloup and another wood to the south of Bussiares were captured by the Allies. On the 10th, during several unsuccessful German attacks east of Vinly-on-the-Clignon (to the north of Veuilly-la-Poterie), the Franco-Americans advanced towards Bussiares, capturing 250 prisoners. On the 12th they took the southern part of Bussiares. On July 18, at the time of the great Franco-American Counter-Offensive, the whole of this region was liberated with fine dash by the 1st American Corps.

_At the crossing near Torcy leave G. C. 9 and take the I. C._ 32 to the right. Near this fork, on the right, are American graves. The road skirts the western side of Belleau Wood. More American graves are seen before coming to =Lucy-le-Bocage=.

In the background: the highest part of Belleau Wood.]

_Pass through the village, leave the church on the left, and take on the left the road leading to_ =Bouresches=. About 200 yards from the village there are more American graves.

On the left of the road the southern edge of Belleau Wood is visible.

Shortly before arriving at Bouresches are more American graves on the left (photo above).

From here the tourist may cross the fields to the wood where there is a path leading to Hill 181, its highest point. Numerous trenches, shelters, etc., will be found there. In April, 1919, corpses were still lying on the ground (photo, p. 53).

_Enter_ =Bouresches=. _Turn to the right in front of the Church, towards Vaux._

The road in front of the church leads: _on the left_, to Belleau, _on the right_, to Vaux.

_On the right_, American graves. _Enter_ =Vaux=. _Cross the National Road_ (N. 3) _and continue straight along the valley_. The ruins here are particularly impressive (photo above).

Going towards Essommes, the tourist comes to =Monneaux=, whose cemetery is on the left, at the entrance to the village. The wall nearest Vaux is pierced with =loop-holes= for machine-guns. Along the left-hand side of the road, American graves. _Cross the village_, which was much less damaged than Vaux, _pass through Montcourt, and after leaving the village cross the river_. _Continue straight along, pass through a hamlet, after which_ =Essommes= _is reached_. This tiny village is one of the oldest in the region. Its fine =church= was built in the 13th and 14th centuries. The choir and transept are especially noteworthy.

Inside are admirable 16th century carved stalls and woodwork. The keystones of the vaulting, a 16th century font, a monk’s tomb with the carved figure of a crosiered abbot, and the fine stained-glass windows are likewise remarkable. According to tradition, Queen Blanche de Navarre, who was a generous patron of the region of Château-Thierry, was buried in the Church.

The village was damaged by bombardment.

_Pass in front of the Church, leaving it to the left, then turn to the left into N._ 3, _which leads back to_ =Château-Thierry=, via _the Avenue du Maréchal Foch_.

The photographs on this page, showing the effects of German plundering, were taken at No. 4 of this avenue.

From Vaux, the road winds round =Hill 204=, which was so bitterly disputed. In July, 1918, the Americans set out for the attack from the various villages seen on the way, and after a week of severe fighting, succeeded in driving out the Germans.

2nd day.--CHÂTEAU-THIERRY--SOISSONS.

The following itinerary will enable the tourist to follow, step by step, the course of the battle for the straightening out of the Château-Thierry salient. It will also enable him to form a correct idea of the German offensive of May 27, with its alternations of advance and retreat around Soissons, the northern pivot of the battle.

_Leave by the Avenue du Maréchal Joffre, take the second street on the right_ (_Rue Gare-des-Chesneaux_), whence there is a =fine view= of the town and castle. _Do not cross the railway by the level crossing on the right of the station, but continue straight ahead, leaving on the right the street which leads to the entrance of the Castle (photo below). Pass the “Octroi,” turn to the left about 100 yards further on_, under the ruined bridge. The hospital on the left was badly damaged by shell-fire, as were also the neighbouring embankment and houses.

_The itinerary follows_ the road on the left.]

_Follow the G. C. 15_, to the left of which, hollowed out in the sloping sides, are many ammunition shelters. _Pass under another_ damaged railway bridge. Near the bridge over the small river which flows in front of the village of =Verdilly= are numerous shell-holes and large heaps of ammunition and rubbish.

_Pass through Verdilly, which was not severely damaged._

The Castle and park on the left received numerous shells. In Barbillon Wood, on the right, huge quantities of abandoned shells were collected.

Further on, opposite the Breteuil Farm, were other ammunition dumps. In the wood which borders the road, a little further on, are gun limbers and artillery shelters.

Before coming to Epieds there is an American cemetery on the left of the road.

=Epieds.=--This village was retaken by the Americans during their advance in the middle of July, 1918. On July 22 a company of the 26th American Division entered the village, after fierce hand-to-hand fighting, but was unable to hold it, as the Germans counter-attacked in force on the 23rd and 24th. After two days’ fighting, the Americans finally captured the village and Trugny Wood to the south-east, with many prisoners. During this fighting, Epieds was taken and lost five times by the Americans.

In the background: the Village.]

_In Epieds, turn to the right, and on leaving the village, take I. C. 30 on the left, which follows the left-hand side of the rive._ On the other side of the river, on the hill-side, to the right, is Moucheton Castle (photo below). A road, lined with poplar-trees, leads there.

The Castle, which was used as headquarters, first by the Germans and afterwards by the Americans, dates from the 18th century. It has been carefully restored in recent times.

In the wood, to the right of the road, were ammunition shelters.

_The tourist soon arrives at_ =Brécy=, where a German fifteen-inch “Bertha” gun was installed. To visit the ="Bertha” platform= (photo p. 66), _turn to the left at the cross-roads before entering Brécy, pass under the railway-bridge, turn to the left 100 yards further on, and follow the railway towards Châtelet Wood. Rather less than a mile from the cross-roads, the wood comes down to the road; skirt it for about 300 yards, until the railway siding which branches off the main line, and along which the gun was brought to its platform, is reached._

The road is at the back behind the trees.]

Follow this siding into the wood for about 60 yards, where the platform, which the Germans tried to blow up before retreating, will be found. The enemy succeeded in saving the gun.

Trees placed in holes along the siding hid the position from the Allied aviators. _Turn the car round in the alley, about 20 yards after the siding, and return to the cross-roads, driving slowly, as the road is narrow and in poor condition._

(_N.B.--Tourists visiting the “Bertha” platform by special excursion from Château-Thierry, can return by the road which follows the railway, instead of retracing their steps, as above. Cross the railway, pass through Bézu-St.-Germain, cross the railway again, turning shortly afterwards to the left along N. 37, which leads direct to Château-Thierry._)

In the background: the Church.]

_Continue to follow the railway, turn to the right and pass under the railway at the next bridge. Near the bend on the left are_ French graves.

_Pass under the bridge, turn to the left into the_ picturesque village of =Coincy=; _cross the river and continue as far as the Church_.

In the background: the Hôtel-le-Ville and Church.]

_Return to the entrance of the village, take on the right the road which passes under the railway, and follow G. C. 3._

In the wood on the left were numerous ammunition dumps. =Rocourt= is reached shortly afterwards. Take a look at the church, then _turn to the right into N. 37_.

All along the road are small dug-outs. The Germans, in their retreat, left behind huge quantities of shells and empty cartridge-cases.

Rather less than two miles from Rocourt, in a small wood which borders the road on the left, the Germans had installed batteries of three-inch and four-inch guns. The wood contains ammunition shelters and an underground chamber full of shells. In the sloping land, at the side of the road, small dug-outs can still be seen. A little further on, near a ruined house, are heaps of burnt cable-drums, gun limbers, motors, etc.

=Brény-on-the-Ourcq= is soon reached.

_Cross the railway (level crossing) in the village._ Shortly after leaving Brény, in the hill-side on the left, are shelters which were used by the Germans. Near by are graves.

A little further on are more shelters on the left, while close by are the graves of the soldiers belonging to the 23rd French Infantry Regiment, who fell on July 24.

=Oulchy-le-Château= is next reached.

The village lies in the narrow valley of the Rû-de-Chauday, between two hills, on one of which is the church, on the other, the castle known as “La Grande Maison.”

_In front of the “Mairie,” turn to the left, leaving the car a few hundred yards further on. Taking the narrow street on the left of the “Mairie,” and then a series of flights of steps, the tourist, keeping to the left, arrives at the_ Church, situated on a terrace close to the ruined Seminary.

The Church was built inside the walls of the old feudal castle, which gave its name to the village, and of which only the massive walls remain. It is a large Roman edifice dating from the 12th century. Although successive restorations have somewhat spoilt its lines, it is none the less a remarkable building. The stalls are 14th century and the pulpit 17th.

_After visiting the church and seminary, cross the terrace and return to the lower part of the village by the footpath, which passes under the little bridge at the edge of the terrace. At the bottom of the path, the tourist will take his car again. A little further on, turn to the left into G. C. 22, leading up to_ =Oulchy-la-Ville=. This village was much more damaged than Oulchy-le-Château.

_At the fork, near the entrance to Oulchy-la-Ville, turn to the right in the direction of the_ Church. The roof and tower of this 13th-14th century edifice were destroyed by bombardment (photo, p. 69).

_Immediately after the church, turn to the left, then to the right, in the direction of the_ distillery in ruins. In the yard of this building there is a German howitzer-gun (photo above).

Just outside the village, shells, machine-gun cartridge belts, and débris of all kinds, heaped pell-mell at the side of the road, remind one of the fierceness of the struggle in this vicinity.

The ruined Church stands at the back.]

_Follow the G. C. 22, which dips down towards the Ourcq._

_Pass through_ =Rozet-St.-Albin=, before and after which, on the right of the road, are numerous “boves” or worked-out quarries transformed into dwellings. Situated in the hill-sides, these “boves” formed admirable shelters for the troops.

_On reaching the Ourcq (which do not cross), continue straight along G. C. 23, in the direction of the village of_ =Chouy=, _which was practically razed to the ground_.

At the Church, _turn to the right_.

On leaving Chouy, _continue along G. C. 23 towards_ =Ancienville=, which is off the road, on the left. _Take the road on the left that winds round a small hill_, on which is the church (photo below).

_Return to G. C. 23, and turn to the left._ The woods about here were badly damaged. After crossing the Saviéres, the Castle of Maucreux, built on an eminence, becomes visible on the left. It was struck by a number of shells.

On the right of the road are stone quarries and dug-outs.

Beyond the Castle and on leaving the woods, _turn to the left at the fork_. Numerous dug-outs are in the sloping sides of the road. After the Cemetery of =Faverolles=, the walls of which are in ruins, the tourist enters the village of that name.

Leaving the church behind, on the left, _turn to the right_. =Vouty= is reached shortly afterwards, after skirting the wall of an old farm.

On the other side of the road are French graves. _Turn to the right into the road seen in the photograph below._

_Skirt the farm, follow G. C. 17, and turn to the left at the first fork. At the next fork, a little further on, keep straight on._ Numerous shell-holes and trenches.

From Vouty, there is a fine run down to the village of =Corcy=, of which nothing is left but a heap of ruins. At the bottom of the hill, the Castle and Park are pictures of desolation.

The village and church are a little further on, to the left.

Behind is the village.]

At the back are seen the marshes and the village.]

In front of the Castle, _turn to the left and, after the marshes, to the right, without crossing the railway by the level-crossing, seen in the foreground of the photograph on the next page_. (_The road to be followed is the one, the beginning of which is seen on the left of this photograph._)

_Continue along G. C. 17, which follows the railway on the right, cross the latter by the level-crossing_, after which the tourist comes to the completely devastated =Villers-Cotterets Wood=.

Numerous deep dug-outs were made in the slopes on the left. A few hundred yards after the level-crossing there is an enormous shell crater, caused by the explosion of an ammunition shelter. On the right of the road flows the Saviéres, on whose banks fierce fighting took place in June-July, 1918.

In the background: Ruins of the Church. The road to Villers-Cotterets is the one going to the left on the photograph.]

On arriving at =Longpont=, the Abbey comes into sight; in front of the latter, _turn to the left, then into the first street on the right_, which leads to the Square. On the left is the Abbey; on the right, the fortified gate.

In the background: Villers-Cotterets Wood and the road leading to Villers-Cotterets village.]

The =Abbey=, which belonged to the Cistercian Order, was founded by _Raoul IV._, Count of Crespy, for which pious act he was absolved from excommunication. It quickly became a flourishing institution, the number of monks at the end of the 12th century being two hundred. In the 14th century, during the Hundred Years’ War, this number had fallen to thirty, while on the eve of the Revolution there remained only fifteen.

The Abbey contains the ruins of a magnificent Gothic Church, the foundations of which were laid in 1131, under the Count of Crespy, but which was only finished in 1226. It was consecrated in 1227, in the presence of King St. Louis and his mother. The fine gabled façade and the walls of the nave, with their massive abutments and graceful flying buttresses, are still standing, as is also the transept. The porches are intact. Of the apsis and chapels, only the walls and columns remain.

A 13th century fortified gate, surmounted by four turrets with pointed tops, is all that remains of the walls that formerly protected the Abbey from the bands of marauders which roamed through the country.

On the left is the Church.]

The roads indicated by the two continuous lines are those to be followed by the tourist.]

The entire region just passed through (from Oulchy to Longpont), was occupied and ravaged by the Germans after May 30, 1918, and reconquered by General Mangin’s army from July 18 onwards.

On May 30, a German army under General Winkler (1st Guards, 33rd Infantry and 10th Reserves) attacked the two villages of Oulchy from the east, but were stubbornly opposed. Advancing beyond them on the 31st, the Germans (28th Reserves) took Longpont, while Corcy was captured by the 1st Guards. After fierce fighting, Chouy, Ancienville, and Faverolles also fell. Two days later, after furious combats, the French recaptured Longpont and Corcy, but Faverolles, after changing hands several times, was kept by the Germans. On June 3, the enemy made a violent attack on Villers-Cotterets Wood, the fighting around Longpont and Faverolles being of the fiercest. However, they failed to gain a footing in the Wood, and the French re-took Faverolles. For more than a month the battle continued to rage without appreciably modifying the situation. From July 11 the Allies became increasingly active, retaking Corcy and Longpont, and crossing the Savières on the 13th, south of that village. On the 18th, the tanks and Franco-American troops (1st and 2nd American Divisions) under General Mangin debouched from the forest in the Great Counter-Offensive. The valley of the Savières was cleared of the enemy, and on the 19th, progress made beyond Chouy. On the 20th and 21st, the outskirts of Oulchy-la-Ville and Oulchy-le-Château were reached. Here the enemy offered a vigorous resistance, and the battle continued to rage until the beginning of August. German prisoners belonging to the 51st Reserves and 6th Guards (Ersatz) declared that their orders on July 30 were to fight to the last man. On August 1 the Germans attacked Oulchy unsuccessfully early in the morning. Finally, the entire region was cleared of the enemy, the Americans taking part in the recapture of Chouy and the two villages of Oulchy.

_After visiting Longpont and the Abbey continue along the street by which the square was reached; cross the bridge in the direction of_ =Chaudun=, _keeping to the G. C. 17_. Below the road are the ruins of La Grange Farm. The table-land near the top of the hill, on the right, served as an aviation park during the War. In May, 1919, the remains of twenty burnt aeroplanes were still to be seen there.

_At the fork take the right-hand road_ (_I. C. 30_). Here the road was crossed by wire entanglements and trenches. Fierce fighting took place over the whole of this tableland. On the left is =Beaurepaire Farm=, which was little damaged.

In the foreground: German corpse.]

At the crossing where Beaurepaire Farm stands, a road branches off on the right towards =Vierzy=, situated rather less than two miles away at the bottom of a small valley. The Americans (2nd Division) had some fierce fighting at Beaurepaire Farm and Vierzy. _If not pressed for time, the tourist should visit Vierzy, returning thence to Beaurepaire Farm and continuing to_ Chaudun (I. C. 30).

On the right of the road is Maisonneuve Farm in ruins (photo below).

On arriving at =Chaudun=, which was badly damaged, _turn to the left in the village_. On the right of the street leading to the small square is the entrance to the cemetery, from where there is a good view of the ruined church.

_After visiting the church, return to the above mentioned._

_Turn to the right, and on leaving the village, to the left, in the direction of_ Cravançon Farm, which was completely destroyed. All around, the trees have been stripped of their branches or torn down by shell fire. Several lines of barbed wire entanglements enclose the farm. A little further on is a crossing with N. 2, known as the “=Croix-de-Fer=” (“Iron Cross”). The fighting around here was extremely bitter. At the time of General Mangin’s great offensive, hundreds of tanks attacked the table-land.

In the background: Cravançon Farm in ruins.]

On the right is the N. 2 leading to Soissons.]

_Turn to the right into N. 2._ In May, 1919, three wrecked tanks were still to be seen there.

_A little further on_ (_rather more than half a mile from the fork_) there is a large American cemetery (photo below). The Americans who fell in the vicinity during the fighting in July were buried there. _Return to the “Croix-de-Fer” and take the road on the right towards Dommiers_, which crosses the table-land attacked by the tanks.

It was from this immense plateau that the Americans set out to attack the German lines on June 18, 1918, with General Mangin’s Army.]

Dommiers Road in the background where the motor-car is standing.]

About half a mile before reaching Dommiers the tourist comes to the British Cemetery, from which the above photograph was taken in April, 1919. The tanks seen in the picture have since been removed.