Chapter III: Part 3

At the entrance to =Dommiers= (in ruins) is an enormous heap of shells, shell-cases, rifles, etc. (photo below). _Pass through the village_, leaving the church on the left. Built in the 12th and 13th centuries, the steeple and roof of the church have fallen in. The choir contained some fine woodwork, which originally came from the Church of St. Jean-des-Vignes at Soissons. Most of it was destroyed by shell-fire, three panels only remaining uninjured.

In the background is seen the village of Dommiers.]

The deep ravine in which this small stream flows was the objective of numerous fierce combats. In the background: Villers-Cotterets Wood in which the Germans tried in vain to get a footing.]

_Continue towards_ =St. Pierre-Aigle=, which is marvellously situated. The photographs on the preceding page show in what state the bombardments left it. _Turn to the left_, to visit the church at the edge of the ravine (pretty view over the forest of Retz). _Return to the road and descend into the valley._

At the bottom of the hill, if not pressed for time, visit Vertes-Feuilles Farm, situated about two miles further on. In this case, _take on the left the road leading up the valley_. The road first passes through ravaged woods, finally reaching the plateau crossed by N. 2. The farm, now a mere heap of ruins, stood at this crossing. Behind the farm are barbed wire entanglements and trenches.

The fighting here was of the fiercest. In front: French graves.]

_Return to_ St. Pierre-Aigle _and continue straight ahead towards_ Cœuvres. The ruined farm and Castle of Valsery on the far side of the river are visible from here. In =Cœuvres=, _turn to the left and cross the bridge_ to visit the church, the steeple and western portion of which have fallen in.

_Return to the bridge and turn to the left towards_ Cutry (_do not cross the river_).

Two lines of barbed wire entanglements crossed the road at the exit of the village. _At the fork, turn to the right into I. C. 44 and cross the river. More_ barbed wire entanglements here defended Cœuvres. _Climb the zig-zag road as far as the_ church of =Cutry=, remarkable edifice whose nave and apsis were destroyed. Very fine view.

In the Cemetery of Cutry are graves of French soldiers who fell in July, 1918.

From this church, built at the top of the hill, there is a fine view of the Rû-de-Retz Ravine, which was so hotly disputed.]

_Return by the same road to the fork._

(_N.B._--_A more direct road to the church is the steep, narrow lane which branches off the route at the foot of the hill. If desired, motorists may take this lane going, and return by the main road, or_ vice versa.)

From Cutry, _continue straight ahead to_ =Laversine=. _Pass through this village by G. C. 17 in the direction of_ =Courtançon=. Before reaching the latter enormous heaps of ammunition and débris will be seen. The trees along the river are shell-torn.

After Courtançon, =St. Bandry= comes into view on the left. In the village _turn to the left as far as the_ ruined church. In the cemetery are graves of French soldiers who fell on July 18. At the side of the church, beneath the ruins of the blacksmith’s house, are ancient, deep-vaulted cellars. There are numerous similar cellars in the village, which served as shelters for the troops.

There are mediaeval cellars underneath the blacksmith’s house seen behind the church.]

_Return to G. C. 17 and turn to the left towards_ =Amblény=.

Rather more than quarter of a mile after entering this village, _turn to the left, then to the right_ towards the Fortified Castle. _Turn to the right and descend alongside_ the Donjon and Church. _Continue straight along, then turn to the right and cross the river. At the fork beyond the river, turn to the left and skirt the cemetery._

The Castle Donjon is seen in the background.]

(_Compare with photo below taken in 1917._)]

_At the next fork go straight ahead._ The valley here was badly ravaged. Numerous wire entanglements, trenches, heaps of ammunition, débris, etc., are seen.

_Keep straight on as far as N. 31, into which turn to the right._ All along are wire entanglements, trenches, heaps of ammunition, shelters, and various organizations. _Cross the railway (level-crossing) and take the first road on the right towards_ =Pernant=.

(_See above photo._)]

_In front, on the right_: Baskets of German shells; _behind same_: Wall pierced with loop-holes. _In one of the outside walls of the church, a shell uncovered a stone_ Virgin _previously walled in_.]

_Cross the railway again (level-crossing), then turn to the right towards the Church._

_Go straight up the hill, take the first road on the right leading up a steep hill_ to the very interesting Castle, which dates from the Middle-Ages. Built on rock foundations it contains a deep cavern. The roof and eastern portion were damaged by the bombardment. Fine view from the terrace.

_Continue to climb the hill as far as the plateau_; very fine view.

_Descend to_ Pernant. Caves are visible in the hill-sides. _At the_ church _turn to the right, then to the left_. _Recross the level-crossing last mentioned, then turn to the right into N. 31._

Along the road numerous military organizations are met with.

(_If not pressed for time, instead of going straight on to Soissons by N. 31, take the road on the right, about 1-1/2 miles after Pernant, leading to Mercin_,

In the ravine which it overlooks furious fighting took place.]

Behind is the Aisne Valley.]

_cross the railway (level-crossing), then turn to the left towards the Church._ The ancient turreted Castle, which now serves as Town-Hall and School, is above the church, on the right.)

_Retracing his steps for a short distance, the tourist should take I. C. 44 on the left, which leads up to the plateau._ Fierce fighting took place here, as attest the wire entanglements, trenches, etc. _On reaching N. 2, turn into it on the left._ The run down from here to =Soissons= is very fine. _Enter Soissons by the Rue du Faubourg St. Christophe._

_The roads indicated by two continuous lines are to be followed by the tourist._]

Throughout the region which the tourist has just visited (Chaudun to Soissons), the battle raged without respite from May 29 to July 18, 1918. While, on May 29 and 30, the French were hanging on to the western outskirts of Soissons, outflanked by the armies of Von François and Von Larisch, the German 6th Active and 6th Reserves captured Vierzy and Chaudun on the 30th. On June 1, French counter-attacks forced the enemy to retire. After changing hands several times and much furious fighting, Chaudun and Vierzy remained in the hands of the French. On the 3rd, the enemy engaged all available reserves (three fresh divisions) in a powerful attack between the Aisne and the Ourcq. Progressing beyond Missy-aux-Bois and La Croix-de-Fer they reached the line extending northwards from Dommiers to west of Pernant. On June 12 and 13, they again attacked in the direction of the Villers-Cotterets Wood reaching the Laversine--Cœuvres--St. Pierre-Aigle line. Stiff fighting continued along this line until the end of June, the French retaking Cœuvres on the 15th, Laversine on the 28th, and St. Pierre-Aigle on July 2.

On July 18, the Franco-American forces (1st and 2nd American Divisions), under General Mangin, began their counter-offensive, which liberated the entire region as far as east of Pernant, including Missy-aux-Bois, Chaudun, and Vierzy. The latter village, which had been lost in the evening, was promptly re-taken by the Americans (2nd Division) after furious combats.

From the 19th to the 21st the enemy offered desperate resistance to the south-west of Soissons. Engaging three fresh divisions, and after numerous counter-attacks, they succeeded in advancing to the east of Chaudun. Their success was short-lived, however, as on the 21st, General Mangin’s army broke down their resistance and reached the road from Soissons to Oulchy (N. 37).

3rd day.--SOISSONS--PARIS.

_Via Laffaux, Fismes and Château-Thierry._

(_To visit Soissons, see the Michelin Illustrated Guide_: “=Soissons before and during the War.=”)

The itineraries of the first two days will have taken the tourist to the extreme points reached by the German advance, and where the victorious Franco-American counter-offensive of July 18 developed along the western side of the Château-Thierry salient.

The itinerary for the third day will first lead the tourist to the =Chemin-des-Dames=, where the German attack of May 27, 1918, which made the salient, began. The return journey passes through those parts of the battlefield to the north-east of Château-Thierry which marked the pursuit of the Germans by the Americans.

At the back stands the Church.

(_Compare with photo on next page taken in 1919._)]

_On leaving Soissons, cross the bridge over the Aisne, then take the Avenue de Laon and N. 2. After_ =St. Paul=, _pass under the railway, then over the level-crossing before coming to_ =Crouy=, which suffered severely from the bombardment. The church is on the left, near the small river.

On leaving the village, the road rises towards Crouy Plateau, passing between numerous military organizations and shelters in the hill-sides.

From the top of the hill the devastated Perrière Farm is visible on the left. There is a French cemetery opposite, on the right of the road.

A trench, since filled in, ran the whole length of the road.

_Cross the ruins_ of Pont Rouge Works. Numerous barbed wire entanglements stretch across the road. _About 100 yards before “milestone” 79, and rather more than half-a-mile before Laffaux Mill_, near a number of French graves, _take the road on the left_, which leads to the ruins of the village of =Laffaux=. The bombardment here was terrible, as the countless shell craters attest. Of the houses, only heaps of stones and débris remain. The ruins of the church are seen in profile above the ravine.

(_On the left of N. 2, beyond Jouy, going towards Laon._)]

The numerous quarries below the village were utilized as defences. A road which passes below the church leads there. _The tourist should return to the main road, either by retracing his steps, or by continuing straight ahead, turning to the right and coming out, rather less than a mile further on, at the crossing where stood_ Laffaux Mill. The latter road is very rough. In May, 1919, corpses were still to be seen in some of the shell holes. =Laffaux Mill= stood on the right of the crossing in the National Highway, at the junction of the rough roads leading to Laffaux and Pinon.

Below in the hillside are the organized caverns seen in the photo below.]

_Continue along the National Road slightly beyond_ “=Guardian Angel Farm=.”

On the right will be seen the beginning of the Chemin-des-Dames (see p. 101). _Return to the farm, then turn to the left into G. C. 14 towards_ Jouy.

_In the foreground:_ Remains of a corpse (1919).]

Overhead, traces of the camouflaging are still visible.]

The “Chemin” follows the crest of the high ground on the horizon.]

_Cross the plateau_, then begin the descent into the valley of the Aisne. Very fine panorama of the Chemin-des-Dames. The view above was taken rather more than a mile from Aizy, before coming to =Jouy=. The graves in the foreground of the photograph have since been carried away by a landslide into the ravine. The photograph on p. 101 shows some of the numerous shelters which were made along this road.

_Leave the village of Aizy on the left._ The road continues to descend into the valley of the Aisne. _On reaching_ =Vailly=, _take the first street to the left towards the church, and in front of the latter, turn to the right_. _One hundred yards further on, turn to the left towards Chavonne, then take the first road to the right (G. C. 10) and follow the river._

There are trenches all along the right of the road. _Pass through_ =Chavonne=, whose destroyed bridge has not yet been rebuilt. _On the left_, numerous military organizations. Traces of the “camouflaging” used hereabout to hide the road are still visible. _Follow the railings of the_ =Soupir Park=, _along which_ trenches were made. These railings were also camouflaged. _Cross the Aisne-and-Oise Canal, and pass through_ =Bourg= _and_ =Comin=.

The quarries on the high ground to the left, before reaching =Œuilly=, were organized militarily. _After the_ church, _turn to the right towards the temporary bridge. Cross the river, then the canal. After the_ distillery, _turn to the left, then take the first road on the right to_ =Révillon=.

_Go straight on to_ =Glennes=. These two villages were captured by the Americans on September 6.

_After visiting_ =Glennes=, _return to Révillon_. _Leaving the village behind, cross the stream, and before reaching the_ Castle, _turn to the left (G. C. 21), then 300 yards further on, to the left again. Go straight ahead, cross the stream, then turn to the right at the fork reached soon afterwards._

_Pass through_ =Merval=, whose factory was entirely destroyed. The road, which was here camouflaged, descends towards the Valley of the Vesle. Pretty view. _Enter_ =Fismettes=, _then cross the Vesle by the temporary bridge_.

To the left of this bridge are the ruins of the old stone bridge.]

_Pass over the level-crossing, then climb straight up to the town of_ =Fismes=, _crossing on the left_ the avenues, whose trees have been cut to pieces by the shells. At one corner of the Square, where the tourist comes out, is the Town Hall in ruins.

To get a good view of the ruins of the Hôtel-Dieu Hospital, _take the Rue de l’Hospice, on the right of the Square, which leads straight there_. This hospital was founded at the beginning of the 15th century. Only the façade remains, the remainder of the buildings having been destroyed by the bombardments.

_Take on the left, the street which passes in front of the_ Hôtel-de-Ville, _and which crosses, on the left, the Avenue in which the_ church _stands_. Built in the 11th, 13th, and 16th centuries, this church is remarkable for its Roman apsis. Inside are two statues of St. Macre, one Middle-Age, the other 17th or 18th century.

The Cemetery, on one side of which several hundred Americans were buried, is on the right of the road to Rheims, beyond the Avenue. _To go there, take the last street on the right_ (_Rue du Point du Jour_).

FISMES.

Origin and Chief Historical Events.

Fismes is one of the oldest towns in France. Cæsar refers to it in his Commentaries on the War of the Gauls. St. Macre suffered martyrdom there. In 1226 the town became a Commune. Sacked in 1814 by the Prussians, its Communal Seal--well-known to archæologists--disappeared. To-day it is in one of the museums of Berlin. The town was fortified at an early date. Of the old ramparts, transformed later into avenues, four gates still exist. It was customary for the Kings of France to stay over-night at Fismes, when on their way to Rheims to be crowned. In 1814, on the eve of invasion, Napoleon I. called the nation to arms at Fismes.

Fismes in 1914.

The Germans occupied the town on September 2, 1914, as the last French columns were withdrawing along the road to Epernay. The Mayor and several town councillors were taken as hostages. Meanwhile, the Kommandant Von Kron ordered eight beds to be prepared in one of the rooms of the Hôtel-de-Ville, and dinner for ten officers; 400 bottles of wine, four oxen and 400 bundles of straw were requisitioned for three o’clock next morning.

During the night, the soldiers pillaged the shops and wine cellars. The next day, the Germans requisitioned one ton of lard or bacon, one ton of coffee and tobacco, 35 tons of bread, and 40 tons of oats. To meet these requirements, the town was forced to apply to the neighbouring communes. The German authorities took measures to protect the houses which were inhabited, but allowed the others to be plundered. The Municipality was ordered to repair the bridge of Fismettes, which had been destroyed by the French engineers, under a penalty of a million francs if the work were not finished in two days. Early in the morning of September 11, the German authorities left the town, which the French were approaching. At about seven o’clock in the evening, the 45th French line regiment entered the town. On the 12th, after an artillery duel which did great damage, the French carried the level-crossing at Fismettes, which had been barricaded by the Germans, together with the railway station and neighbouring houses. They were held up by enemy fire for a short while in front of the bridge, and were obliged to carry the hat factory at the point of the bayonet. Passing over to the north side of the river, the Zouaves of the 1st regiment, with the help of the 45th line regiment, captured the heights which command the town.

The ruined Church is seen at the back.]

Fismes in 1918.

The town was again occupied by the Germans on May 28, 1918, after stiff fighting.

On May 27, 1918, the first day of their great offensive, the Germans reached the Vesle at about 7.30 in the evening, on both sides of Fismes. At one in the morning, on the 28th, the Germans crossed the Vesle, outflanking the town on the west. Other enemy troops, who only forced the passage of the river towards noon, were supported on their left and progressed dangerously. A frontal attack forced the French, who were defending Fismes, to retire, in order to avoid being surrounded.

Fismes was delivered on August 4 and 5 by the Americans (3rd Corps), who had reached the outskirts of the town on the evening of the previous day. On the 4th, street by street, at the bayonet’s point, they captured the town. From the 6th to the 10th the fighting continued to be extremely violent along the river, and in front of Fismettes. On the 6th American units crossed the Vesle near Fismettes, but on the 8th and 9th the Germans counter-attacked vigorously to the east of Fismes and before Fismettes. After breaking down the German resistance, the Americans occupied Fismettes definitely on the 10th. On the following days, especially on the 12th and 28th, furious counter-attacks by the Germans failed to retake Fismettes.

The offensive by General Mangin’s army against the tablelands to the north-east of Soissons, from August 30, made itself felt along the Vesle front. Fearing to be outflanked, and in order to shorten his front, the enemy abandoned the heights overlooking the river, and retreated to the Aisne during the night of September 3-4. On the 4th, Franco-American troops crossed the Vesle along an eighteen-mile front, advancing on an average about two and a half miles to the north. On the 5th they reached the Aisne.

_After visiting Fismes, if the tourist desires to go to_ =Rheims=, _he should continue in the direction taken to go to the cemetery, following N. 31._

_To continue the itinerary of the_ American battle, _return to the Hôtel-de-Ville and follow N. 31 towards Bazoches_. _Cross the railway (level-crossing), the river in the middle of the marshes, then the bridge over the railway_. The bombardment did great damage here. On arriving at =Bazoches=, _take the road which branches off N. 31 and leads to the village_. The walls of the cemetery on the left are in ruins. By the side of the cemetery are the graves of the American soldiers who fell in the vicinity.

=Bazoches= is one of the most ancient country towns in the Department of the Aisne. It is held by some to have had its origin in the public granaries built there by the Romans after their conquest of Gaul. Several martyrdoms took place there.

_The N. 31 road which the tourist has just left runs at the foot of the hill._]

Situated on the railway from Soissons to Rheims, and connected by branch lines with the railway from Paris to Châlons, _via_ Château-Thierry and Epernay, and the lines radiating from Villers-Cotterets towards Paris, the important position of Bazoches was hotly disputed during the fighting from May to August, 1918.

The Americans co-operated actively in its re-capture in August, 1918. On August 7 they crossed the Vesle to the east of the town, under particularly difficult conditions. The river and its banks literally bristled with wire entanglements, and were swept by deadly machine-gun and artillery fire, but the Americans got across nevertheless.

The itinerary passes in front of the Church of St. Peter (12th and 13th centuries).

_Leaving the church on the right_, the Square from which the above photograph was taken, _is reached_. View on the left of the remains of the 12th century Castle, which now serves as a farm. It is flanked by a tower at each of its four corners and in the middle of each side. The great moat which surrounded the central portion of the building was protected by a wall (practically intact on the south-west) flanked by twenty-two round towers. Several of the latter are still standing.

_Compare with photo below, taking as a guide the two trees._]

_Continue along the road, turn to the left, cross the railway (level-crossing), then the river; take the first road on the right (I. C. 33) towards_ Mont-Notre-Dame, and follow the valley of the Vesle.

This river, which rises in the Department of the Marne, flows from east to west, entering the Department of the Aisne to the north of Bazoches. According to tradition it owes its existence and name to a Queen of the Belgians.

_Pass under, then over the railway, and enter the village of_ =Mont-Notre-Dame=.

The village is very ancient, and was no doubt first built on the top of the plateau, at the foot of which it now stands. From 589 to 985 A.D. six Councils of Prelates were held there, and in the 11th century two Synods.

_See photo above._]

_Compare with photo below._]

Mont-Notre-Dame, an isolated hill, sugar-loaf in shape, dominates all the surrounding country. It formed an excellent position for the artillery during the fighting in this region and was used by both sides.

_In the village turn to the left and skirt the hill, then take the steep rise on the right, which leads to the top. On the right_, caverns are visible in the hill-sides. The church, now a mere heap of stones, is next reached. The cemetery is behind.

According to tradition this church (_historical monument_) was founded in the 9th century. It was rebuilt in the 12th and 13th centuries.

Only part of the vast original edifice (similar in style to the Cathedral of Soissons) was retained when the church was rebuilt. In 1650, when the Spanish occupied the surrounding country, the peasants took refuge in the towers of the church. They were discovered, and the church set on fire, most of the peasants being burnt alive.

_Compare with photo above._]

The ruins of the 18th century château, destroyed by the bombardments, stand on the left of the church. The entrance-gates, enclosure wall, and an isolated outbuilding are all that the bombardments have spared. Inside the park a heap of débris and stones marks the spot where the castle stood.

The castle was protected by a fortress with massive towers and donjon, which was destroyed and rebuilt several times.

_From the top of the hill_ fine panorama of the valley of the Vesle to the north. There was much severe fighting on its banks throughout the War.

_At the bottom of the hill turn to the right and follow the uphill road G. C. 14 to_ =Chéry-Chartreuve=.

_To visit the church keep to the left of the village, and climb on foot the small hill_, on which the church stands. _To visit the_ American Cemetery (about three-quarters of a mile from the village) _follow G. C. 21 in the same direction_.

_Return to Chéry-Chartreuve and continue along G. C. 14 to_ =Dravegny=, _passing straight through_.

Fine run down to =Cohan=. _Turn to the right in front of the_ church, _then to the left, to cross the river, and afterwards to the right towards_ =Coulonges=.

This village existed at the time of the Roman invasion. In 1838 the foundations of Gallo-Roman houses and various objects belonging to the same period were discovered in the court-yard of the notary’s house. The Americans captured the village on August 2.

_On leaving Coulonges turn to the right and cross the river. At the following fork, if not pressed for time, visit the_ Castle of Nesle (2-1/2 miles); the American Cemetery at Seringes (3-1/2 miles); and the village and castle of Fère-en-Tardenois (5-1/2 miles). To this end take _the G. C. 2 on the right to_ =Nesles=. _The road leading to the castle (on the right) is rough._

Portions of the castle are well preserved, including the enclosure walls, flanked by six towers 60 feet high. The door opening on the northern curtain is protected by two similar towers. The donjon, now in ruins, was 100 feet high.

The castle was built about the year 1230 by Robert de Dreux, Count of Braime. Pierre de Rieux, Marshal of France, was imprisoned there by Guillaume de Flavy in the 15th century, and murdered by his jailer.

Guillaume de Flavy, who was notorious for his ferocious cruelty, turned the castle into a stronghold for his mercenaries. It was he who delivered Joan of Arc to the Burgundians at Compiègne, of which town he was governor.

The castle was captured by the Americans after three days’ fighting (July 28 to 31, 1918).

_Continue towards_ =Seringes=. _On the right of the road, rather more than a mile after_ Nesles, there is an American Cemetery.

The village, which is slightly to the north of the road, was taken by the Americans on July 31, 1918. Early in the morning of August 1 the Germans retook it during a counter-attack, only to lose it again. In this region the Americans encountered two picked German Divisions (4th Guards and 6th Bavarians), beating them soundly.

=Fère-en-Tardenois=, which is reached shortly afterwards, is very ancient, although tradition, according to which it was the “Fara” given by Clovis to St. Genevieve, and by the latter to St. Remi, is now generally admitted to be mythical.

On May 30, 1918, Fère was recaptured by the Germans, only to be reconquered by the Allies during their counter-offensive of July. Already on the 19th the French were within nine miles of the town, but on the following days the Germans made a determined stand in the outskirts. On the 25th the resistance of the enemy, who had been reinforced by a fresh division of Bavarian reserves, stiffened, but broke down on the 27th. The Germans were obliged to retreat, and the French occupied the town on the 28th.

On the 30th the enemy counter-attacked and retook the railway station to the north of the town, but on August 1, in spite of bitter resistance and the withering fire of countless machine-guns, the Allies continued to gain ground. In danger of being outflanked on the north-west, the Germans further retreated on August 2, which completely liberated the town.

_In the village turn to the left to visit the_ church.

The church, which was destroyed during the Hundred Years’ War, was rebuilt in the 16th century--the nave at the beginning, the choir later, and the steeple in full Renaissance period.

In the left aisle there is a 17th century funeral monument, and in the right a carved churchwardens’ bench. The pulpit is adorned with carved figures of the Evangelists. The high altar with twisted columns is of gilt wood, and is surmounted by an “Adoration of the Wise Men” by Vignon (1643), flanked by a painting of St. Hubert and a portrait of Louis XIII. curing a sick person, when passing through Fère in May, 1635. The altar of painted wood, with its carved wooden screen, painted and gilded (1664), is on the left, and serves as a reliquary for the remains of Saint Macre, the Patron-Saint of La Fère. It was taken from the former Church of Courmont. In one of the last windows of the southern aisle was some 16th century stained-glass.

_After visiting the church, turn to the right (looking towards it) into the_ “Grande Place,” which contains a stone fountain and the old Market Hall.

The round pillars and wooden posts of the Market Hall, which was finished in 1552, support the fine timber-work roof.

The latter was destroyed by shell-fire, but has been temporarily repaired (_see photos above and below_).

(Note the temporary pitch-paper roof.)]

(_See below_).]

_Cross the square, skirting the Market Hall, and turn to the left towards the castle._

_To enter the castle, take the second road on the right, after the pond, and pass under the great bridge, which will bring the tourist out in front of the castle._

_To visit the_ Great Bridge _and_ the ruins of the Feudal Castle, _take the lane on the left of the latter_.

=Castle of Fère= (_Historical Monument_).--This is one of the finest sights in the region. The present buildings include some of the ancient outbuildings (restored) and the fortress.

The castle was begun in 1206, by Robert de Dreux and Jean de Bretagne, on an eminence which was artificially isolated from the neighbouring hill.

Anne de Montmorency, to whom it was given in 1528 by François Ier, transformed it into an elegant and rich mansion.

Large bay-windows were made in the towers and curtains. The mediæval entrance was replaced by the present magnificent covered bridge, which measures approximately 200 feet in length, 11 feet in width, and 65 feet in height, and which was probably built by the famous Renaissance architect, Jean Bullant (photo, p. 120).

The portico at the entrance of the gallery is adorned with mutilated carvings, attributed by some to Jean Goujon.

The long vaulted entrance leads to an enclosure, around which are eight ruined towers. Seen from the outside, these towers are remarkable for their peculiar construction. The castle, which was falling into ruins, was pulled down by Louis-Philippe of Orleans.

_Return to and cross through_ Fère, _leaving the market-place on the right_. _Return, by the road previously taken, to the fork at_ Coulonges, _and take G. C. 14 on the right to_ =Chamery=. This village was reconquered by the Americans on July 31, 1918, in spite of the enemy’s strenuous efforts to keep it.

_At the entrance to Chamery, where the road turns to the right, follow on foot the path leading to the_ =grave of Lieutenant Quentin Roosevelt=, which is about 300 yards further on.

_After Chamery, turn to the left, towards_ Cierges.

On the left of the road is =Reddy Farm=, which was taken by the Americans on August 1, 1918, after sharp fighting.

The tableland on the right was used as an aviation camp.

=Cierges= is reached soon afterwards. This village is extremely ancient, many Gaulish and Gallo-Roman objects having been unearthed there. It was captured by the Americans (32nd Division) on July 31, as well as Sergy, which the 42nd Division lost and retook three times.

_Take the road to the right, to_ =Courmont=, _crossing the Ourcq River_. There are some American graves _at the fork before entering Courmont_. _In front of the ruined church, turn to the left._

_Before leaving the village, turn again to the left, then at the fork, 500 yards beyond the village, take the road on the right to_ Charmel. The road passes through a wood, cut to pieces by the shells. German artillery was installed there. At the other side is the road which leads to the =Castle of Charmel=, about 300 yards distant. The castle, which is magnificently situated, overlooks (_to the North_) the vast plain which spreads out between the extreme points of the Forests of Fère and Ris and (_to the South_) the valley of the Marne.

It was to this castle that, before dying, the Bishop of Metz, _Pierre Bédacier_, summoned _Bossuet_ (future Bishop of Meaux), and gave up in favour of the latter, the Priory of Gassicourt-les-Mantes, in the Diocese of Chartres, of which he was the Senior Prior. Bossuet had considerable difficulty in getting the transfer ratified and was accused of having acted fraudulently by those who disputed his claims.

The cemetery is near by. At the entrance to the village is one of the familiar Michelin “Merci” signs (_to be found in most localities in France_) which indicate the name of the village and the number of the road.

Placed at both ends of the villages on the great touring routes, these signs, in addition to the information above mentioned, bear the request “_Mind the Children_,” on one side, and “Merci” (_Thanks_) on the other.

_Leave the church on the right, keep to the left, then take the road on the right (G. C. 3), which leads towards the valley of the Marne._ Very fine view along the zig-zag, down-hill road to the river.

=Jaulgonne= is next reached.

From Courmont to Jaulgonne the road runs between the woods of Fère (_to the west_) and Ris (_to the east_), in the middle of the region which the Americans conquered from July 22, 1918, onwards.

The fighting was extremely fierce throughout this region. To save their guns and organize their retreat the Germans stubbornly opposed the American advance. However, foot by foot, they were obliged to give way before the impetuous onrush of the Americans. From the 23rd to the 26th the latter, after a prolonged struggle, captured Charmel and the whole of the heights running parallel to the Marne. The German prisoners captured in Ris Wood declared that their orders were to hold out at all costs, to allow of a counter-attack by two divisions of the Guards. On the succeeding days

the Americans continued to clear the northern part of the wood, and finally drove the enemy back to the Ourcq, which was crossed on the 29th.

_Pass through_ Jaulgonne, _and keep straight on at the fork in the road on leaving the village_. The road follows the Marne. Pass through =Chartèves= (photo p. 125), _shortly after which_ =Mont-St.-Père= _is reached_.

The Church is in the background.]

=Mont-St.-Père.=--_In the village, at the fork of G. C. 4 (on the right, leading to Epieds) and G. C. 3 (leading to Château-Thierry), take the former for about 200 yards to a road on the left, which leads to the top of the hill_, where stand the ruins of the church (photo p. 126) and castle. _Leaving the car, which should return to the Château-Thierry road and wait at the exit of Mont-St.-Père, at the point where the lane from the Church of Mont-St.-Père rejoins the road to Château-Thierry_, the tourist should go on foot to the church and castle.

On September 3, 1914, a French infantry regiment, retreating southwards, found Mont-St.-Père occupied by the Germans. Forcing their way through at the point of the bayonet, they crossed the Marne, and after destroying the bridge, continued their retreat.

_After admiring the_ =view=, _the tourist should descend the hill on the side opposite; on reaching the Château-Thierry road he will find his car waiting for him_.

On the hillside to the right, on leaving Mont-St.-Père, there is an American cemetery (photo, p. 126).

The road continues to follow the Marne. Pass through =Gland=, leaving the church on the left. =Brasles= is reached soon afterwards. The church is on the right.

Throughout the whole of the region covered since leaving Jaulgonne the Americans fought with great bravery on both banks of the Marne.

On May 28, 1918, the second day of the German Offensive, the German High Command changed its original plans, which were to limit the operations to the taking of the heights south of the Vesle, and then to cause the fall of Soissons and Rheims. The Franco-British resistance on the two wings, and the rapid advance of the Germans in the centre, caused the German High Command to attempt the thrust towards the Marne. From May 29 to June 1 the centre of the 7th German Army made a dash for the Marne. On the evening of the 29th the Kommandant of the 231st Division declared that it was a “question of honour to reach the Marne to-morrow.” Two second line divisions (the 231st and 103rd) were interposed between the 10th and 28th on one side, and the 36th and 5th Guards on the other. It thus became a race to the Marne between these divisions. On May 30 the 231st reached the river at about two o’clock in the afternoon, between Brasles and Mont-St.-Père, while the 28th entered Jaulgonne at six in the evening.

On June 1 the Germans tried to get a footing on the heights on the south bank of the Marne. It has been seen that they were unable to cross the river at Château-Thierry, the bridge having been destroyed. At Jaulgonne a battalion of the 36th succeeded in crossing, on the nights of May 31 and June 1, only to be thrown back on the other side, or captured by Franco-American troops on the 2nd. On the 3rd the Germans gave up the attempt, and things quietened down in this sector, which the Americans continued to guard.

During the German “Peace Offensive” of July 15, the Americans (3rd Division) resolutely withstood the shock on the Marne. Behind a thick smoke curtain, and favoured by the night mists, German pioneers threw bridges over the river from Gland eastwards, along a twelve-mile front. About a dozen bridges, some of them 25 to 30 feet wide, were established. German engineers were particularly active in front of Mont-St.-Père, Jaulgonne, and Chartèves. At dawn, while the infantry were being taken across the river in boats and on pontoons worked by steel cables, the artillery crossed the bridges. French and American aviators, flying as low as 150 feet, raked the bridges and pontoons with machine-gun fire, while two of the bridges, struck by bombs, collapsed, throwing men, horses, and baggage into the river.

At great sacrifice the Germans succeeded in getting a footing on the southern slopes of the Marne. The objectives of their extreme right, starting from Chartèves, were points five to six miles south of the river. They were held up by the Americans. Of the 1,000 prisoners taken by the Allies during their counter-attack south of the Marne on July 15, 600 were captured by the Americans, who forced the Germans back over the river, west of Jaulgonne. To the east of that village the Germans advanced several kilometres south of the river. Part of the American front, facing eastwards, made a dogged resistance until July 20, in spite of enemy reinforcements. The 3rd American Division fought for nine consecutive days, and was only relieved by the 32nd Division on July 30.

The success of the Franco-American counter-attack of July 18, from Château-Thierry to Soissons, relieved the violent pressure on the Americans, and forced the Germans to retreat across the river. It was now the turn of the Americans to attack. On the 21st they crossed the river and occupied Mont-St.-Père, Chartèves, and Jaulgonne. On the 22nd, they captured the villages east of Jaulgonne, and continued their march towards the Ourcq.

The tourist has now gone over their field of action.

_From Château-Thierry, return to Paris per the itinerary used for coming._

(_On arriving at the fortifications of Paris, the tourist should present his “bulletin de réintroduction” at the “Octroi."_)

CONTENTS

VOLUME I

PAGE
FOREWORD 2

THE GERMAN OFFENSIVE 3-21

THE ALLIES’ COUNTER-OFFENSIVE 21-38

THE GERMAN RETREAT 28-38

THE OFFENSIVE OF AUGUST 1 33-35

RESULTS OF THE ALLIES’
COUNTER-OFFENSIVE 36-38

A VISIT TO THE BATTLEFIELDS 39-128

1ST ITINERARY 40-62
Paris 40
Château-Thierry 40-48
Belleau Wood 49-54
Bouresches 59-60
Château-Thierry 48

2ND ITINERARY 63-96
Château-Thierry 64
Oulchy-le-Château 68-70
Longpont 76-78
Soissons 94

3RD ITINERARY 97-128
Soissons 97
Laffaux 98-99
Fismes 105-109
Mont St. Père 126-127
Paris 128

AMERICAN UNITS ENGAGED--

1st Corps 27

3rd Corps 35

1st Division 26

2nd Division 12

3rd Division 13

4th Division 27

26th Division 21

77th Division 35

* * * * *

THE AMERICANS IN THE GREAT WAR

VOLUME II. THE BATTLE OF SAINT MIHIEL (ST. MIHIEL, PONT-à-MOUSSON, METZ)

_=A panoramic history and guide=_

_Price_ =$1=

MICHELIN & Cie., CLERMONT-FERRAND MICHELIN TYRE Co. Ltd., 81 Fulham Road, LONDON, S. W. MICHELIN TIRE Co., MILLTOWN, N. J., U. S. A.]

* * * * *

THE AMERICANS IN THE GREAT WAR

VOLUME III MEUSE-ARGONNE BATTLE (MONTFAUCON, ROMAGNE, ST MENEHOULD)

_=A panoramic history and guide=_

_Price_ =$1=

MICHELIN & Cie., CLERMONT-FERRAND MICHELIN TYRE Co. Ltd., 81 Fulham Road, LONDON, S. W. MICHELIN TIRE Co., MILLTOWN, N. J., U. S. A.]

PRINTED IN THE U. S. A.
BY ESSEX PRESS. INC., NEWARK, N. J.

* * * * *

BEAUTIFUL FRANCE

_Paris and its environs_

_PARIS_--home of grandeur, elegance, and wit--plays a part in France probably unequalled in any other country, and may be considered, in many respects, as the chief city of Europe, and one of the greatest in the world. Above all, it possesses eminently national qualities which ten centuries of refinement and taste have handed down to contemporary France.

It is impossible, in a few lines, to paint the exceptional charms of Paris which the whole world admires.

Its vistas of the Champs-Elysées seen from the Tuileries and the Arc de Triomphe; of Notre-Dame and the point of the City Island seen from La Concorde Bridge; of the River Seine, the Institute, the Louvre, seen from the Pont-Neuf embankment; Notre-Dame and its quays, seen from the end of St. Louis Island; the panorama of the city seen from the top of Montmartre Hill; the Avenue du Bois de Boulogne and the Bois de Boulogne itself, etc., etc.,--all are of incomparable beauty.

The city’s historical monuments are of inestimable value, and the most famous art treasures are to be found in its Museums.

The surroundings of Paris join the charm of their landscapes to the world-wide fame of their parks and castles: _Versailles_, whose palace and park recall the splendor of the Louis XIV. period, and where the “Trianons” have preserved graceful traces of the Court of Marie-Antoinette; _St. Germain_ with its castle and forest; _St. Cloud_ and its park; _Sèvres_ and its world-renowned art porcelain factory; _La Malmaison_, home of Bonaparte before he became Napoleon I.; _Rambouillet_, _Fontainebleau_, _Chartres_ with its marvelous cathedral, _Maintenon_, _Dreux_, etc.--all these form a girdle round Paris such as no other metropolis in the world can boast of.

* * * * *

MICHELIN TOURING OFFICES

MICHELIN TYRE CO., Ltd., LONDON
Touring Office :: 81, Fulham Road, S. W.

MICHELIN & Cie, CLERMONT-FERRAND
Touring Office :: 97, Boulevard Péreire, PARIS

Drop a line, ring us up, or call at one of our
Touring Offices and you will receive a carefully
worked-out description of the route to follow.

* * * * *

Hotels and Motor-Agents
AT
CHÂTEAU-THIERRY, OULCHY-LE-CHÂTEAU, SOISSONS, FISMES, RHEIMS,
EPERNAY, DORMANS.

Information extracted from the MICHELIN GUIDE (1919)[A]

Key to Arbitrary Signs

THE MICHELIN TOURING OFFICES at: 99,
Boulevard Péreire, PARIS, and 81, Fulham
Road, Chelsea, LONDON, S. W. 3, will be pleased
to furnish motorists with advice and information
free of charge.

Special itineraries free on request.

[A] _The above information dates from March 1st, 1919, and may no longer be exact when it meets the reader’s eye. Tourists are therefore recommended to consult the latest edition of the “Michelin Guide to France” (English or French), before setting out on the tour described in this volume._