Chapter IX: Book II: Chap. I (1)

_Of the Buildings and Monuments of Old_ Byzantium _and_
Constantinople, _called_ New Rome.

Having describ’d the Figure and Extent of the City, and having particularized the Situation of the _seven Hills_, I shall proceed to consider what Buildings and Monuments _Constantinople_ anciently had, or now has, and into how many _Wards_ it was divided. For when I accidentally fell upon this Division of the City into _Wards_, in an ancient _Manuscript_ written above one thousand Years ago, by a Gentleman more noble by his Birth than his Writings, I was in hopes, with some Ease, to have traced out the ancient City; but the barbarous _Mahometans_ have either so demolish’d those venerable and truly heroick Ornaments which distinguish’d it, to adorn their own paultry Houses, or entirely buried them in their own Ruins, that in very few Places you shall see any Remains of an old Foundation. I omit to mention the Fires and other Devastations, committed not only by the Savages of other Countries, but the great Havock lately made by the _Turks_ themselves, who for the last hundred Years have incessantly endeavour’d entirely to deface and destroy it, by building upon it in so different a Manner, that those who have formerly seen some parts of it, scarce know its ancient Situation. Consider farther the profound Ignorance of the _Greeks_ at present. There is scarce a Man of them who either knows, or has so much as an Inclination to know, where their _Antiquities_ are. Nay, their Priests are so heedless and negligent in this Respect, that they will not make the least Enquiry themselves about those Places, where but a few Years since very magnificent Temples were standing, and so very censorious are they, as to condemn those that do. However, that I might not pass away my Time uselessly, while I was in Expectation of Remittances from my Royal Master, for purchasing all the ancient _Manuscripts_ I could meet with, I made it my Business, by all the Marks of Antiquity I was capable of observing, to make what Discoveries I could. In my Description of the ancient Monuments, I shall observe the same Method I did in the Description of the Hills. I shall consider them in the Order the Hills stand, or as I find them in the different _Wards_ of the City; which, like _Old Rome_, was divided into fourteen _Wards_.

CHAP. II.

_Of the Ancient Monuments of the first_ Hill, _and of the first_ Ward
_of the City_.

The first Hill, which _Pliny_ sometimes calls _Chrysoceras_, and sometimes _Auri Cornu_, (though this was a Mistake, as appears from what I have wrote concerning the _Thracian Bosporus_) _Dionysius_ a _Byzantian_ calls the _Promontory_ of the _Bosporus_. _There are two Reasons assigned_, says he, _why ’tis call’d the_ Promontory _of the_ Bosporus; _the one is, as some say, because a Cow stung with a Gad-Bee forded over it. Others more fabulously report, that_ Io, _the Daughter of_ Inachus, _being changed into a Cow, swam across it, when she went into_ Asia. The same Author, speaking of a Place call’d _Semystra_, tells us, that _Byzantium_ had been founded there, had not a Raven snatched a Part of the Sacrifice, they offer’d upon their landing, out of the Fire, and carry’d it to the _Promontory_ of the _Bosporus_. This they look’d upon as a Token from the Gods, that they should found their City there. The same Writer, speaking in another Place of a _Promontory_ call’d _Metopum_, opposite to the first Hill of _Constantinople_, this _Promontory_, he adds, faces the City, and lies directly against the _Promontory_ of the _Bosporus_; and the same Author informs us, that a little above the _Promontory_ of the _Bosporus_, there was an Altar erected to _Minerva_, who was call’d _Ecbasia_, or _Egressoria_, because those who transplanted the Colony hither, sally’d out from thence, with a Bravery equal to those, who fight for their Countrey. We might also call her _Ecbateria_, under which Name, as _Hesychius_ reports, _Diana_ was worshipped in _Siphnus_. He adds farther, that upon the same _Promontory_ stood the old Temple of _Neptune_, and below it, upon the Plain, that the _Byzantian_ Youth exercised themselves in Horse-racing, driving the Chariot, Wrestling, and other Martial Sports; and lastly, that at the Foot of the _Promontory_ stood a Bay call’d _Ceras_, which had three Havens, fortify’d with three Cittadels, and high Sand-banks, upon it stood the Castle of _Byzantium_, of which _Xenophon_ takes Notice, when he tells us, that the Men under his Command, having forc’d their Way into the Town, the Inhabitants fearing they should be put to the Sword if their City was taken, some fled to the adjoining _Promontory_, others to the Sea, and that some of them steering about a long time in a Fisher-boat, made at last a landing, got into a Tower, from thence made Signals of Distress, and were assisted at last by the People of _Chalcedon_. And not only the Castle of old _Byzantium_ was built upon the first Hill, but Historians assure us, that the Emperours of _Constantinople_ likewise continu’d a Fortress there, when they tell us, that to keep off the Enemy from entring the Port, they laid a Boom across the River, from the Cittadel to the Castle of _Galata_: Nay, even at this Day, the _Grand Seignor_ has a Cittadel there, fortify’d with thick Walls, which enclose his spacious Gardens on all sides. In old _Byzantium_ there was a Place call’d the _Thracian_ Field, lying upon a Level, and not incumber’d with Houses. It was upon this Plain that _Xenophon_ drew up in Military Order the _Grecian_ Army. He informs us, in his Book of his _Hellenici_, that this Field was near the _Thracian_ Gate; they open’d, says he, the Gates adjoining the _Thracian_ Field: And in the 7ᵗʰ Book of the _Expedition of Cyrus_, speaking of a Place, seated near the Walls of _Byzantium_, where he ranged his Army in order of Battle, he tells us, that the most convenient Place to draw up, or muster an Army is, the _Thracian_ Field; because, as he goes on, ’tis free of Houses, and upon a Plain. I observ’d before, that the seven Towers of _Byzantium_ reach’d from the _Thracian_ Gate to the Sea; _Georgius Cedrinus_ asserts, that they reach’d to the Northern-Sea, that is, to the Bay call’d _Ceras_. _Herodotus_ attests, that in old _Byzantium_ stood an Altar erected to _Diana Orthosia_, and a Temple dedicated to _Bacchus_. _Darius_, says he, _upon viewing the Black Sea, came back to the Bridge, and erected upon the_ Bosporus _two Stone Columns, on which he order’d to be engraven the_ Assyrian _and_ Greek _Alphabets. The_ Byzantians _afterwards removed them into the City, near to the Altar of_ Diana Orthosia. _The_ Greek _Alphabet was what they retain’d, and made use of. The Column with the_ Assyrian _Characters they left remaining near the Temple of_ Bacchus, _where they had fix’d it_. _Laurentius_ translates the _Greek_ Word _Orthosia_, _Erecta_, but he had translated it more properly, had he call’d her _Erectoria_, or _Erectrix_, because as being the Goddess of Child-birth she _raises up_, or _recovers_ Women in Labour. This I collect to be the true Sense of the Word, not only from several Authors, but from _Plutarch_, who in his Book of _Rivers_, has this Story: _Proud_ Teuthras, _King of_ Mysia, says he, _with his Retinue of Spearmen chas’d a Boar, which fled into the Temple of_ Diana Orthosia _to implore her Assistance. As they were all driving furiously into the Temple, the Boar cry’d out with an audible human Voice_, Let your Compassion, Royal Sir, be shewn to one whom _Diana_ brought into the World. Teuthras _enraged at this, slew the Creature_. Diana _resenting the Affront, threw the King into a Phrenzy, and punished him with ulcerous Sores. He could not bear the Indignity of his Punishment, and so retired to the Mountains. His Mother_ Lysippa, _immediately, with the Prophet_ Polyidius, _who inform’d her of the Occasion of her Son’s Sufferings, hastens in Search of him, and by sacrificing to_ Diana _some Oxen, reconciles her to him. When she perceiv’d her Son return’d to his Senses, she erected an Altar to_ Diana Orthosia, _and near it placed a Golden Boar, with a Man’s Head upon his Shoulders_. Before the Destruction of _Byzantium_ by _Severus_, both the Altar and the Boar were standing, in the first Valley of the first Hill. Since _Constantine_ rebuilt the City, the first Hill included in it the first _Ward_, which contain’d the House of _Placidia Augusta_, that also of the most noble _Marina_, and the Baths of _Arcadius_. I learn this from the ancient Division of the City into _Wards_, though I must confess myself at a Loss, to know in what Part of the City the first _Ward_ began, nor can I make any such Discovery from the Remains of any ancient Buildings, which are now entirely destroy’d. However, thus much may be inferr’d from _Procopius_, who has it upon Record, that when you sail from the _Propontis_ to the Eastern Part of the City, there stand the publick Baths, built by _Arcadius_. In this Place, says he, _Justinian_ built a Court, which was encompassed with so calm a Sea, that when you walk’d in the Galleries, you might discourse audibly with the Sailors. It made a very beautiful, a very delightful, and most magnificent Prospect: It was fann’d with gentle Breezes, supported with lofty Columns, and laid with the most curious Marble, which like the Sun, reflected a most amazing Lustre: It was also adorn’d with abundance of Marble and brazen Statues, finish’d to the nicest Perfection; a lovely Scene to the Spectators! The Reader, had he seen it, would have taken it to have been the Work of _Phidias_, _Lysippus_, or _Praxiteles_. Upon a high Pillar of _Porphyry_ Marble, in the same Place, stood the Statue of the Empress _Theodora_, addressing herself, as it were, to him for building so noble a Structure. The Beauty of the Column is exceedingly surprising, yet does it by no means come up to that inconceivable inexpressible Gracefulness and Dignity you see in the Statue. From these Words of _Procopius_, as I would observe by the By, that that Pillar now landing upon a Descent, lying Eastward of the _Grand Seignor_’s Palace, is not the same with that upon which _Theodora_ was erected, as some are of Opinion it is; because it is neither of a _Porphyry_ Colour, and is at too remote a Distance form the Court; so would I have the Reader understand, that the first _Ward_ contain’d in it the Length of the first Hill, which is bounded on three Sides by the Sea. I find not only in many _Historians_, but also in _Suidas_ the _Grammarian_, that the Statue of _Arcadia_, the second Wife of _Zeno_, stood in the _Arcadian_ Baths, near the Places call’d the _Bathra_, from the Stairs by which you ascend them. I find also in that Place two Statues of _Verina_, the Wife of _Leo Magnus_, one in the Northern Part of the City, near the Church of St. _Agathonicus_ beyond the _Bathra_, the other on that Side of the City where stands the Church of St. _Barbara_: The first was erected by _Leo_ in his Life-time, the second since his Death; when upon the Flight of _Zeno_, his Son in Law, his Brother _Basiliscus_ was crown’d Emperor in his stead. I have reason to believe, when I consider the natural Situation and Order in which the _Wards_ stand, that Part of the second _Ward_ was inclos’d in the Palace: For this _Ward_, according to the ancient Description of it, at its first Entrance stood upon a Level; at some Distance it rose by a gentle Ascent, and at last, with very deep Precipices, fell into the Sea. I am of Opinion, that these Precipices descended on that Spot of Ground where the Kitchens, and _Bagnio’s_ of the _Grand Seignor_ stand at present. But where-ever they might stand in ancient Times, all the steep Places that were formerly enclosed within the _Palace_ are now levell’d, where now there stands an old Church commonly call’d _Sophia the Less_. Some of the most ancient Inhabitants affirm it to be the Church of St. _Irene_, which _Socrates_ tells us was built by _Constantine the Great_. I take it to be the same Church which the People of the second _Ward_ call the _Old Church_. I have Reason also to believe, that the other Part of the second _Ward_ stood without the _Palace_, from the Situation of the _Churches_ and _Bagnio’s_, which the second _Ward_ encloses. For _Zonaras_ and other Historians assert, that the Church, which formerly went by the Name of the _Great Church_, was afterwards call’d the Church of St. _Sophia_, which every body knows stood without the Enclosure of the Palace. I have reason to conjecture also, that the Palace of _Maximinus_ formerly stood within the Verge of the Court, from the following Inscription made in its Commendation by _Cyrus_, once a _Consul_ and Nobleman of _Rome_.

_Great_ Maximinus _rais’d this noble Pile;
From hence to Lengths unmeasurable I view
Unbounded Prospects; for behind me stand
The City, and_ Bithynia’s _beauteous Towns.
The swelling Ocean rolls its Waves before me;
When near my Doors, it moves but slowly on,
Delighted to behold the lovely Landscape
Of blooming Trees, gay Seats, and floating Ships,
The City’s rising Towers, and pleasing Site._

CHAP. III.

_Of the Church of St._ Sophia.

The modern Writers among the _Greeks_ will have it, that the Church of St. _Sophia_ was first built by the Emperor _Constantius_, the Son of _Constantine the Great_, and arch’d at Top, not with Brick-work, but a wooden Roof. In the Time of _Theodosius_, when the second _Synod_ was held there, the _Arians_ rising in Sedition, burnt it. It was after rebuilt by _Theodosius the Great_, and beautified with Arches of a cylindrick Form. The same _Writer_ tells us, that it was burnt a second time in the Reign of _Justinian_; but _Sozomen_, an ancient and creditable Author, records it, that in the Time of _Theodosius the Less_, when there were warm Debates in the _great Church_, about expelling St. _Chrysostom_ the _Synod_, it was all on a sudden in a Blaze, those who adhered to him throwing Fire into it, with an Intention to burn down the Church, and to destroy all that were in it. _Procopius_ will have it, that it was first burnt down in the Reign of _Justinian_, who rebuilt it in the same Figure it stands at present; but he does not tell us, whether it stands on the same Spot of Ground or not; so that it remains doubtful from this Author, who is not so much to be depended upon, though he has a Catalogue of the Names of the Persons of whom _Justinian_ purchas’d the Houses where it stood before the Fire. An _Ancient Description of the City_, wrote before _Justinian_’s Time, seems to fix it in another Place; for the _great Church_ and the _old Church_, the Author places in the second _Ward_, the _Forum_ of _Augustus_ in the fourth, which I shall make appear stood near the Church of St. _Sophia_. _Zonaras_ says, that _Justinian_ built it much larger from the old Foundation; but ’tis much to be question’d, whether _Justinian_ purchas’d the neighbouring Houses for its Enlargement. As to the _Forum_ of _Augustus_, and the _great Church’s_ being placed in different _Wards_, we cannot from hence conclude, that they did not stand near one another. So that when _Justinian_ had enlarged and beautify’d it, and adorned it with a great Variety of Metal-work, when he had built the Walls and Roof with Brick, and to strengthen them the more, had cramp’d them in many Places with Iron-work, using no Rafters in the whole Fabrick for fear of Fire; although it has hitherto escaped the Flames, yet has it been often damaged and endanger’d by several Accidents, even from the Time of its Rebuilding. For the Eastern Arch before it was finish’d, bore with its Weight so hard upon the Pillars, that in all Probability it had fell, had not the Architect been very expeditious in finishing it; when bearing upon its own _Curvature_, it laid less heavy upon the Pillars which supported it. The two Northern and Southern _Arches_ bore so hard upon the Pillars and Foundation, that the Tops of the _Pillars_ began to fly; and had sunk, if the Workmen had not with the greatest Skill taken them down, and afterwards replaced them, when the Greenness and Moisture of the Building was somewhat abated. The Church however, at the Emperor’s great Expence, and by the indefatigable Industry of the Workmen, was at last finish’d; yet in his own Time it was grievously shock’d by an Earthquake, by which, as _Agathius_ writes, the Tower above the Roof was much shatter’d in the Middle of it; so that the Emperor was obliged to repair and strengthen it, raising it much higher than it was before. This was done when _Anthemius_ the first Architect was dead. However young _Isidorus_, and some other Architects who succeeded him, notwithstanding the Errors committed in the former Building, did not judge it necessary to take down the Eastern or Western Arches, but widen’d the North and South Arches, and so visibly enlarged them, that the whole Building seem’d more regular and uniform; so that it was evident to the Eye of the Spectator, that the Sides of the Church, which terminated with their Arches in the Roof, were of an equal Dimension; and that the Architects had with so much Skill contracted the vast Vacuity of the Body of the Church into so narrow a Compass at the Top, that the whole Structure seem’d very proportionate and agreeable. Above the Arches, in the Middle of the Church, they raised a _Dome_ or _Cupola_ to a very great Height, which was regular, and not so round at Top as usual, but more spiked, and better contrived for the Security of the Building. _Zonaras_ writes, That the _great Church_ being finished and consecrated; it happen’d that the Eastern Arch was thrown down by an Earthquake, which broke the Pulpit and the Communion-Table, but was afterwards rebuilt by _Justinian_, who raised it twenty five Foot higher than it was before. The same Report, almost Word for Word, is given by _Cedrinus_. He also built other Pillars proportionable to the Weight of the Arch which bore upon them. On the Outside of the Church he built a Pair of Winding-steps against the Pillars, near to the Church, which rising from the Ground to the Roof of it, support the Pillars, and the Arches. Other Writers, but of less Note, will have it, that by the Earth-quake above-mention’d the Roof of the Church was thrown down, but that the Arches stood secure, that the Emperor rebuilt the Roof, but lower than before by twenty five Foot. I could, for my own part, bear with this Relation, if these Historians would agree with me, that the Church was afterwards shock’d with other Earth-quakes, and then built lower than it stood before. For when _Evagrius_ tells us that _Justinian_ raised it to such an Height, that within side of it you could scarce see the Top, and that the Descent was so deep, that it was dangerous to look from the Height of it downwards, it is very probable, that _Justinian_ only raised it to its former Height. _Cedrinus_ relates, that _Basilius_ the Emperor gave Orders for repairing, and strengthening the great Western Arch, which was very much shatter’d by an Earth-quake, and likely to fall. _Nicephorus_ inveighs bitterly against the Empress _Anna_, who in the Reign of _Catacosmus_, sacrilegiously robb’d the Church of all its Furniture and Ornaments, and exclaims heavily, that the Tyranny, Oppression, and the different Sects and Opinions of those Times, were the chief Occasion of the Destruction of this Church: For, as he subjoins, one Midnight when the Sky was very clear, one of the Eastern Arches fell to the Ground, and brought that Part of the Roof, which it supported, after it, which broke down the Pulpit, the Images which adorn’d it, and demolished the middle Galleries. He adds farther, that it was the Opinion of many in those Times, that if _Andronicus_ the Emperor had not built Buttresses on the East-side of the Church, it had wholly sunk into Ruines. _Evagrius_ determines the Length of the Church in the following manner: From the Arch, where the bloodless Sacrifice is offer’d, to the Gate opposite to it, it is an hundred and ninety Foot long; from North to South it is a hundred and fifteen Foot broad; and from the Pavement to the Center of the Roof, it is a hundred and eighty Foot high. It was dangerous for me to measure its Length from East to West, so that I was obliged to have the Dimensions of it taken for me by a _Turk_, who made his Report, that the Church was two hundred and thirteen Foot in Breadth, two hundred and forty in Length, and from the Pavement to the highest Curvature of the Arches, a hundred and forty two Foot in Height. The Fellow never measured the Roof; If he had taken the Height of it true, he had found but a small Difference between his own Account and that of _Evagrius_. Should the Reader desire to be inform’d more at large of the Dimensions, and the Architecture of this Church, as it stood in former Times, let him consult _Procopius_, _Agathius_, _Paulus Florus_, and _Evagrius_. What the Architecture and Dimensions of it are at present, I shall, as far as my Observations have reach’d, describe more fully in the following Chapter.

CHAP. IV.

_A Description of the Church of St._ Sophia, _as it now appears_.

The Walls and Roof of this Church are built with Brick. The Inside of the Walls of the Church are incrusted with elegant Marble of several Kinds. All its Materials are the most valuable Productions of Nature, so that the Prospect of it employs the Thoughts of the Spectator with Delight and Admiration. The Roof of it is a surprizing Piece of gilded _Mosaick_ Work, which reflects such a Lustre upon the Eye, that even the _Barbarians_ who behold it, are wonderfully taken with the Sight of it. This Roof is supported with eight Pillars, four of the largest and tallest of which bear up the four Arches which support the Roof. Two of these Arches, _viz._ the Northern and Southern, bear at the Bottom of their Curvature upon a thin Wall full of Windows, which Wall is strengthen’d by two Ranges of Pillars standing one above another. In the lower Range stand eight Pillars, which rise from the Pavement, the six above them support the thin Wall. The Eastern and Western Arches have neither a Wall nor a Pillar to support them, but are so open, that they make the Body of the Church appear more large. For these Arches projecting beyond the former, bear upon four other Arches, which are supported by two small and two large Pillars: For the four large Pillars do not only bear up the four great Arches, but every one of them does also support two small Arches, one of which extends itself length-ways, the other cross-ways of the Church; by which means the Church is lengthen’d and widen’d to a great Distance; for on the East and West Side of it there are two _Semi-domes_ which are join’d to the _Cupola_ in such a Manner, that they have the same Roof within the Church, though without it the Roofs seem to be distinct. These _Semi-domes_ are a great Ornament to the _Cupola_, which rises very highly above them. The Breadth of the Church is widen’d beyond the _Dome_ with Arches and Pillars, and the Northern and Southern Wall, which form the three upper and three lower Galleries, which are incrusted with elegant Marble of different Kinds, the Roof of them being cover’d with _Moresco Mosaick_ Work, finely gilded. Every Arch which lies across the Church bears only upon one Pillar, for one End of their Curvatures is supported by the outward Wall of the Church, which bears upon large Pillars, from whence there rise four Arches, which on both Sides of the Church are supported by the Wall. Two of these Arches bear up the Roof of the three lower Galleries, and the other two support the Roof of the three upper Galleries, the Sides of which bear upon Walls, and Arches, and Pillars. Hence it is, that if we consider the Inside of the Church by itself, as enclosed by its Pillars and Columns, we discover it to be of an oval Figure; whereas if we view the whole Space of it without these Pillars, it is a perfect Square. For the upper and the lower Galleries, which are the Wings of the Church, adjoin to it in such a Manner, that if we measure it from the Pavement to the Bottom of the Curvature of the upper Galleries, ’tis of a square Figure, but as contracted within the Enclosure of the four large and the four smaller Pillars, as far as the Curvature of the four Arches of the _Dome_, it is entirely of an oval Form. The Form of the Galleries is as follows: On three Sides of them they are built in a square Manner: The fourth Side of them, which looks into the Church, is of an oval Figure, as is the Church itself. The Roofs of these Galleries are supported with Arches and Columns. I shall give the Reader a Description of three of them, by which means he may easily form a Judgment of the rest, for they are all of one Form. Those I shall take Notice of, are the three upper Galleries on the North Side of the Church. The first of these Galleries has two Fronts, and looks both Eastward and Northward. The two Sides of this Gallery rise from the Wall of the Church, and end in an Arch. In the Middle of each Side of it there are three square Columns five Foot and nine Inches in Circumference, which are made the Jambs of the Windows. These Pillars support three other square Pillars, which are all made of blue and white Marble. The Side which faces the Body of the Church is adorn’d with six Pillars of green Marble, standing below the Arch which supports an Eastern _Semi-dome_, whose Shafts at the Bottom of them are seven Foot and eight Digits in Compass. The _Intercolumniations_ of these Pillars being little less than seven Foot and eleven Digits wide, are strengthen’d with Marble _Closures_ which are four Foot high, so that those who lean upon them, have a full View of all the upper and lower Part of the Church. That Side which parts the first and second Gallery, reaching from the outward Wall Northward, to the great Pillar which supports the _Dome_, is forty four Foot in Length, part of which is adorn’d with Pillars, and an Arch which supports the _Dome_. You pass through this into the second Gallery, the Breadth of which is twenty four Foot, and it is made up of the Arch of a Pillar, and a Wall which is a part of one of the Wings of the Church, and extends itself as far as the Roof of the _Dome_. This Gallery, at both Ends of it, is born up by Arches and Walls. In the Middle of it, it is supported by four white Pillars speckled with blue, the Shafts of which are seven Foot in Compass. ’Tis of a square Figure, and, as I observ’d, bears upon Arches and Walls. These Arches, at one End of them, rise behind two of the large Pillars which support the _Dome_; at the other End they bear upon Pillars which rise within Side of the Walls, and support the four large Pillars. The outer Side of this Gallery is supported with eight square Pillars, which are six Foot in Compass. There rises in the Middle of them a Pillar of a larger Size. These Pillars are instead of Jambs for the Windows; and above them there are other Pillars, which are also Jambs to other Windows. These Windows, which below and above are sixteen in Number, do very much enlighten this second or Middle Gallery. The Front of this Gallery, facing the Church, is beautified with six Pillars of green Marble. The _Intercolumniations_ of them, like those of the first Gallery, have their Marble _Closures_ at Bottom. From this middle Gallery you pass through an Arch into the third Gallery, which is much like the first in its Length, Windows, Jambs and Pillars. The Roof of it is supported with four Pillars, and the Side of it towards the Church with six green Pillars. There are also four green Marble Pillars which support one of the Western _Semi-domes_ which stands between two other Pillars. These Pillars stand two and two together, and between them are rais’d two lesser Pillars, made after the _Ionic_ Order. At the Western Door of the Church there are instead of a _Vestibulum_, two _Portico’s_, the lower of which lies upon a Level with the Church itself. The upper leads to the Womens Galleries. Both of them in Length the Wideness of the Church, and twenty eight Foot in Breadth. The _Portico_ over it is situate between the Pillars which support the Western _Semi-dome_ and the Windows. For both in the Inside and Outside of it, ’tis supported with eight Pillars, between which, the Windows both in the upper and lower Galleries, cast a great Light into the Church. There is nothing parts this _Portico_ and the Womens Galleries, but the Pillars which bear up the Roof of the _Portico_; for the Pavement of the _Portico_ lies upon the same Level with the Pavement of the Galleries. The Inside of the lower _Portico_ is enclosed with Walls, which are lined with a delectable Variety of Marble, and is cover’d at Top with curious _Moresco Mosaick_ Work, very beautifully gilded. On the East Side the _Portico_ are Doors which open into the Church; on the West End of it you go out at five Brass folding Doors into a _Portico_ that stands without the Church, and from thence you pass into a Court, where there are several Springs constantly running, to which there is a very deep Descent by many Steps. At the Ends of these _Portico’s_ there are two Places of Entrance into the Church, one on the Northern Side of it, and another with six folding Doors on the South. These Doors formerly were all of Brass, at present three only of them are so, but curiously wrought. The Church has also two folding Doors on the East Side of it. There are also some Doors in the Sides of it, which were formerly open’d, but are now kept shut. The Inside of the Church is very light, by reason of the Multitude of Windows about it. The high Wall, which between the great Arches and the _Cupola_ is of a circular Figure, let in the Light at forty Windows. The Walls under the Arches are enlighten’d with twenty six Windows, the Middle of the Galleries with thirty two, and the Ends of them with more than twenty. I shall take no Notice of the Lights of the two Western and the four lower Galleries, nor those of the two _Semi-domes_, nor those of the _Sanctum Sanctorum_, and the upper _Portico_, which I omitted to count, by reason of the great Number of them. The largest Entrance into this Church is on the West Side of it, where you do not ascend the Pavement as formerly, and as the _Romans_ did their _Pantheon_, nor do you descend into it by five Steps. You go up to the Top of the Church by four Pair of winding Stairs, not winding round in the Manner of a Cockle-shell, as _Cedrinus_ reports, but turning more upon the Square, and work’d by the Line. These Stairs rise with a very easy Ascent, and are cut out of large Marble Tables. Every Turning of these Stairs is nineteen Foot and a half high, and five Foot broad. Above these there is another Pair of winding Stairs which reach to the Top of the Church. You must ascend these when you go to the upper Galleries, and _Portico’s_. If the Reader will give himself the Trouble to compare what I have said of the Church of St. _Sophia_, with what has been written by _Procopius_ and _Agathius_ upon that Subject, he may easily discover, that the Ruins of what was built by _Justinian_ have not been so great as the _Turks_ pretend, who tell you, that the Church was formerly much larger, and that several Parts of it have been pull’d down by the _Barbarians_, and that there is scarce a tenth Part of it remaining at this Day. This Story would carry a Face of Probability in it, if they meant, that the Palaces, the Houses of the Priests and the Noblemen, which were built about it, had been demolish’d by Fire, and the Ravage of those People, otherwise I am convinc’d ’tis a gross Mistake; for I saw every Part of the old Church standing, mention’d by _Procopius_, except one _Portico_. For whereas _Procopius_ writes, that the Church had two _Portico’s_ at each End of it, there is none, remaining at present, but only that at the West End. ’Tis very probable that the other was thrown down by an Earthquake, and that in the Room of it, the Inhabitants erected a large Lump of Building of square Stone, which is now standing, to support the East end of the Church. This Lump of Stone you would take to be a Piece of a craggy Rock, though it does not seem, by reason of the Earthquakes, to be of the same Height as it was when it was first built, yet is it as near as high, as _Evagrius_ mentions it to be. Since which, to fortify the labouring Pillars, it is lengthen’d with four Walls. These Walls are more than twenty Foot long and eight Foot broad, rising to the Height of the great Pillars, and seem, to speak in the Terms of Architecture, to be Wings to the Church, or rather Buttresses, by which the North and South Side of it are strengthen’d and supported. Both Ends of the Church, which project beyond the eight Pillars, extending themselves each into a _Semi-dome_, and rising at Top into an arched Form, are yet remaining. The same lower Galleries for the Men, and the same upper Galleries for the Women, the whole Roof, the same Walls and Pillars, the same Dimensions of the Church, as originally beautify’d and adorn’d, are still in Being. There are indeed some Flaws in the Building, occasion’d by those who opposed the setting up of Images in the Church. In short, the whole, and every part of it, is to be seen at present; and it is despoiled of nothing, except a little of the Metal-work, which shews itself in great abundance through the whole Church. The _Sanctum Sanctorum_, formerly holy and unpolluted, into which the Priests only were suffer’d to enter, is yet standing, though there is nothing remaining of the Jewels and precious Stones which adorn’d it, as having been plunder’d by its sacrilegious Enemies. That inimitable Table, given to the Church by its Founder _Justinian_, made of the different Materials of Gold, Silver, all Kinds of Wood, costly Stones, which either the Sea or the whole World could produce, and which was embellish’d and enrich’d with infinite Offerings of Emperors, Popes, Princes, and Ladies of the first Quality; among whom was _Pulcheria_, the Daughter of _Arcadius_, and Sister of _Theodosius the Less_, is at present despoil’d of all its fine Decorations. _Sozomen_ tells us, that this Table was a very beautiful and surprizing Ornament to the Church, which was endow’d with very ample Donations, the _Mahometan_ Priests being now in Possession of them. They have eleven hundred Shops and publick Houses, situate in the best Markets of the City, which pay them a constant Revenue or Rent, without any Deductions, for their Maintenance and Support.

CHAP. V.

_Of the Statues discover’d on one Side of the Church of St._ Sophia.

On the Side of the Church of St. _Sophia_, says _Suidas_, were discovered more than seventy Statues of the _Grecian_ Deities, the Figures of the twelve Signs of the _Zodiack_, and no less than eighty Statues of Christian Princes and Emperors, which, when _Justinian_ had commanded to be placed in several Parts of the City, he built the great Church. I could give the Reader an Account of the Names of these Deities from an unknown Author, who has wrote a Treatise of _Constantinople_, and the adjacent Countrey; but I have found him faulty in so many of his Narrations, that I cannot depend upon his Authority.

CHAP. VI.

_Of the_ Pharo _on the Promontory_ Ceras, _and the_ Mangana.

_Ammianus Marcellinus_ writes, that there was built near the Promontory _Ceras_, a high Watch-Tower, which was call’d _Pharos_, and was a Guide to the Ships at a great Distance. The Situation of this _Pharos_, in all Probability, was near the Church of St. _Sophia_. For from what Part of the City could it spread a more convenient and diffusive Light to those who sail’d out of the _Bosporus_ and the _Propontis_? _Dionysius_ calls it the _Bosporian Promontory_, and tells us, that _Io_, the Daughter of _Inachus_, provoked by _Juno_’s Resentment against her, passed over from thence into _Asia_. The Place call’d the _Mangana_ was their Armoury, where they kept their Ordnance. It stood in the Imperial Precinct, or by it, near the Chops of the _Bosporus_. The Emperor _Constantine_, Surnamed _Monomachus_, built a handsome and large Monastery, which is also call’d _Mangana_, in Honour of the noble _Martyr_ St. _George_. _Alexius Comnenus_, when he was ill of the Gout, was carry’d to the great Palace, which stands in the Eastern part of the City; but when his Physicians judg’d it not to be so wholsome an Air, he was removed into the Palace of the _Mangana_.

CHAP. VII.

_Of the_ Bagnio’s _of_ Zeuxippus _and its Statues_.

These _Bagnio’s_ were so call’d, as _Cedrinus_ relates, because they were built in a Place, where formerly had stood the Temple of _Jupiter Zeuxippus_. This is said of them by _Eusebius_, who writes, _That there are some of Opinion, that the fine Bathing-place at_ Constantinople _took its Name from the famous Painter_ Zeuxes, _whose Pieces adorn’d it_. I collect that it stood near the Church of St. _Sophia_, not only from the _Treatise_ of the _ancient Description_ of the City, which places them both in the same _Ward_, but also from the Fire which happen’d in the Reign of _Justinian_, and burnt down, as _Procopius_ observes, the Church of St. _Sophia_, and the adjacent Buildings, as the _Bagnio_ of _Zeuxippus_, and the House of Entrance before the Palace; and _Zonaras_ writes, that _Severus_ the Emperor join’d it to the _Hippodrom_, and built it on the same Spot of Ground, where formerly had stood the Temple of _Jupiter_. _Leontius_, a more ancient and judicious Historian, does not join it to the _Hippodrom_, but makes it to stand near it, as appears by his Verses inscrib’d over a Door of a House, situate between the _Zeuxippum_ and the _Hippodrom_.

An Inscription of _Leontius_ upon a House call’d the _Zeuxippum_ and the _Hippodrom_.

_Between_ Zeuxippus’ _cool refreshing Baths,
And the fam’d_ Hippodrom_’s swift Course I stand.
Let the Spectator, when he baths himself,
Or sees the struggling Steed panting for Breath,
Pay a kind Visit, to enhanse his Pleasures;
He’ll find a hearty Wellcome at my Table.
Or if more manly Sports his Mind affects,
Practise the rough Diversions of the_ Stadia.

_Cedrinus_ relates, that in this _Bagnio_ there was a pleasant Variety of Prospects of surprizing Art, both in Marble and Stone-work, in Statues of Brass, and Figures of Persons of Antiquity, who seem’d to want nothing but a Soul to animate and enliven them. Among these celebrated Pieces of the most exquisite Workmanship, was the Statue of old _Homer_, in a thoughtful Posture, just as he was, his Hands folded in his Breast, his Beard carelessly hanging down, his Hair very thin before, his Face wrinkled with Age, and the Cares of the World; his Nose well proportion’d, his Eyes fix’d in their Sockets, as is usual with blind Persons, which he was generally look’d upon to be. Over his close Coat hung a loose Garment, and under his Feet, upon the Pedestal of the Pillar, was a Bridle in Brass. This Place was also beautify’d with the brazen Statues of all those renown’d Personages who had been famous for Wisdom, Poetry, Oratory or Courage, throughout the World, but were all destroy’d by Fire. Among these were the Statues of _Deiphobus_, _Æschines_, _Demosthenes_, _Aristotle_, _Euripides_, _Hesiod_, _Theocritus_, _Simonides_, _Anaximenes_, _Calchas_, _Pyrrhus_, _Amymone_; of _Sappho_, _Apollo_, _Venus_, _Chrysa_, _Julius Cæsar_, _Plato_, _Hermaphroditus_, _Herinna_, _Terpander_, _Pericles_, _Pythagoras_, _Stesichorus_, _Democritus_; of _Hercules_, _Aurora_, _Æneas_, _Creusa_, _Helenus_, _Andromachus_, _Menelaus_, _Helena_, _Ulysses_, _Hecuba_, _Cassandra_, _Polyxena_, _Ajax_, _Paris_, and his _Oenone_; of _Milo_, _Dares_ and _Entellus_, _Charidemus_, _Melampus_, _Panthous_, _Demogeron_, _Isocrates_, _Amphiaraus_, _Sarpedon_, _Achilles_, _Mercury_, _Apuleius_, _Diana_, _Pherecydes_, _Heraclitus_, _Cratinus_, _Menander_, _Amphitryon_, _Thucydides_, _Herodotus_, _Pindar_, _Xenophon_, _Alcmæon_, _Pompey_ and _Virgil_. There were also many other Statues which have been describ’d in Verse by _Christodorus_ a Poet of _Thebes_, or, as others report, a Native of _Coptos_ in _Ægypt_, which, were it not a Work of Prolixity, I would explain to the Reader. There stood near the _Bagnio_ call’d _Zeuxippum_, a small Bath, taken Notice of by _Leontius_ in the following Lines:

_Let not thy stately Walls, O proud_ Zeuxippum,
_Resent the Meanness of this little Bath.
In Heaven’s high Tower, near the Constellation
Of_ Ursa Major _shines the_ Polar _Star_.

There is nothing of the _Zeuxippum_ remaining at present, nor of many other fine _Bagnio’s_, although we have many Inscriptions relating to them; as of that famous one celebrated by _Agathius_, in which _Venus_ is said to have bathed her self; also of another call’d _Didymum_, in which both Sexes used to wash, describ’d in Verse by _Paulus Silentiarius_, and a third made memorable by an Inscription of the learned _Leontius_. Besides these, there was another named _Cupido_, describ’d by the ingenious _Marianus_; yet are all of them either entirely ruin’d, or so defaced by the _Mahometans_, that you cannot discover who built them, or to whom they belong’d.

CHAP. VIII.

_Of the Hospitals of_ Sampson _and_ Eubulus.

_There was built_, as _Procopius_ says, _a Hospital for the Relief of poor and sick People. It was founded in ancient Times by a holy Man, whose Name was_ Sampson. _But it did not escape the Flames, occasion’d by a riotous Mob, which burnt down that and the Church of St._ Sophia. _It was rebuilt by_ Julian, _who beautify’d and enlarged it with a Multitude of small handsome Apartments, and afterwards endow’d it with a yearly Stipend, for the Support and Comfort of the miserable and distressed. But the good Emperor not being content with this Oblation he had made to God, with the Co-assistance of his Imperial Consort_ Theodora, _built over-against it two other Hospitals on the same Ground, where formerly stood the Houses of_ Isidorus _and_ Arcadius. Thus far _Procopius_. From whence I would observe, that the Hospital of _Sampson_ was not far from the Church of St. _Sophia_, and have read in the History of an unknown Author, that it stood over-against it. I am confirm’d in this Opinion by the Authority of _Zonaras_, who tells us in the like Manner, that there was a Fire occasion’d by a Faction, which burnt down the _great Church_, that of St. _Irene_, the Hospital of _Eubulus_, the _Chalca_, the _Bagnio_ of _Severus_, call’d the _Zeuxippum_, and many other Buildings. This is farther attested by _Cedrinus_, who speaking of the same Fire, tells us, _That a great Part of the City, the Churches of St._ Sophia _and St._ Irene, _the Hospitals of_ Sampson _and_ Eubulus, _with the sick People inhabiting them, as also the_ Augustean _Gate-house of the_ Basilica, _the_ Chalca, _the two_ Portico’s, _as far as the_ Forum, _the_ Octogon _and the_ Bagnio _of_ Zeuxippus, _were destroy’d by Fire_. After I had made the former Quotation from the printed Works of _Procopius_, I lighted by chance upon a Manuscript of him, wherein I was inform’d, that the Hospital of _Sampson_ stood between the two Churches of St. _Sophia_ and St. _Irene_.

CHAP. IX.

_Of the Statue of_ Eudoxia Augusta, _for which St._ Chrysostom _was
sent into Banishment_.

SOCRATES and _Sozomen_, Writers of sacred History, tells us, that a Silver Statue of _Eudoxia Augusta_ was erected upon a _Porphyry_ Pillar on the South Side of the Church of St. _Sophia_, though at some Distance from it, near the _Senate-House_. The People commonly paid their Homage and Acclamations to this Statue. There were publick Entertainments of Dancing, and other mimical Gestures acted before it, according to a Custom which had long prevail’d, of paying Adoration to the Images of Princes. St. _Chrysostom_ reflecting upon this Practice, as contrary to the Precepts of the Christian Religion, publickly condemn’d it in a _Sermon_. _Eudoxia_ believing her self to be closely struck at in that Discourse, banish’d him. I should here take Notice of the _Miliarium_ and the _Basilica_, as being near the Church of St. _Sophia_, but then I shall invert the Method I proposed to observe.

CHAP. X.

_Of those Parts of the City which are contain’d in the third_ Ward.

The third _Ward_ is discover’d to have been that Space of Ground upon which stood the _Hippodrom_, the House of _Abraham Bassa_, the Gate of _Leo_, and the Haven which the Inhabitants call the _Caterga Limena_, where the Three-oar’d Galleys used to anchor, and so on to the Top of the second Hill, as far as the _Forum_ of _Constantine_. I made this Observation, not only from the Order the _Wards_ stand in, but also from the Treatise of the _Description of the Wards_, which says, that the third _Ward_, at the Entrance of it, is a Level Ground, but in the most remote Part of it, it descends with too great a Declivity into the Sea, and contains the Tribunal of the _Forum_ of _Constantine_, the _Circus Maximus_, the House of _Pulcheria Augusta_, the new Port, and the semicircular _Portico_, made after the Figure of an old _Greek Sigma_.

CHAP. XI.

_Of the_ Hippodrom, _its_ Obelisk, _its_ Statues, _and_ Columns.

Modern Historians, as _Zonaras_ and others, write, that the _Hippodrom_ was built by _Severus_ upon his Reconciliation with the _Byzantians_. _Zosimus_, a more ancient Writer tells us, that it was built, and curiously beautified by _Constantine the Great_, part of which he made the Temple of _Castor_ and _Pollux_, whose Images remain’d in the _Portico’s_ of the _Hippodrom_ down to his Time; that is, ’till the Reign of _Theodosius_ the _Less_. In the middle of the _Circo_, which the _Greeks_ call the _Hippodrom_, there stood an _Obelisk_ made of _Thebaick_ Stone; but as the _ancient Description of the Wards_ takes no Notice of it, tho’ it does of the Square _Thebaick Obelisk_ in the fifth _Ward_, I should be inclin’d to believe, that the _Obelisk_, I am speaking of, was overturn’d by an Earth-quake, and remov’d by _Theodosius_ into the _Hippodrom_, after that Treatise was wrote, if the Author had not taken notice of many of _Theodosius_’s Works, and omitted some Things in the _Wards_, which he afterwards mention’d in his _General View of the City_. ’Tis very probable, that _Constantinople_ had more _Obelisks_ than one. As to that taken notice of in the fifth _Ward_, it is not now remaining. When first I arriv’d at _Constantinople_ I saw two of them, one in the _Circus Maximus_, another in the Imperial Precinct, standing on the North-side of the first Hill. This last was of a square Figure, and was erected near the Houses of the _Grand Seignor_’s Glaziers. A little time after I saw it lying prostrate without the Precinct, and found it to be thirty five Foot in Length. Each of its Sides, if I mistake not, was six Foot broad, and the whole was eight Yards in Compass. It was purchased by _Antonius Priolus_, a Nobleman of _Venice_, who sent it thither, and placed it in St. _Stephen_’s Market. The other is standing in the _Hippodrom_ to this Day. ’Tis supported by four square broad Pieces of Brass, each a Foot and a half high, with a Base and a Pedestal of the same Height. From the Ground there rise two Steps against the Pedestal, the lowermost of which is a Foot high, and of the same Breadth: The upper Step is two Foot high, and projects four Foot and four Fingers Breadth beyond the Pedestal. The Steps are not laid within the Pedestal, but are join’d to it withoutside, as appears by the Cement. Upon the Steps stands the Pedestal, which is every way twelve Foot broad, four Foot eight Digits in Height and projects beyond the Base a Foot and a half: Somewhat above a Foot higher it is more contracted, and does not project beyond its Base; for from the Top of the Pedestal there’s a Fluting on the four Sides of the _Obelisk_ which is cut out of the same Stone of which the Pedestal is made, and is a Foot and thirteen Digits high. The Corners of the Top of the Pedestal are worn, and defac’d, but are repair’d by four Stones of _Thebaick Porphyry_ Marble, each of them a Foot and a half high; for all the fluted Part of the Pedestal that lies between these four angular Stones, together with the upper Part of it, support the Base, which is seven Foot and thirteen Digits high, and projects a Foot and a half beyond the Bottom of the Shaft of the _Obelisk_, to the Breadth of nine Foot, and as many Digits: ’Tis carv’d on all Sides, as is also the Pedestal, which is covered with curious Statues cut in _Basso Relievo_. The Sculptures on the North-side of it, stand in two Ranges, the lowermost of which contains eighteen Statues, and two Cap-stands, which are turn’d round with Iron Crows by four Men, and wind the Ropes, which are drawn through Pullies, round the Cap-stand, and so draw the _Obelisk_ along the Ground. In the same Range is engraved the _Obelisk_ in an upright Posture, as it now stands, with three Statues, one of which, as the Inhabitants tell you, represents the Master, and the other the Servant, whom he design’d to correct, if a third Person had not interposed, because he had erected the _Obelisk_ in his Absence. In the upper Range there are also the Figures of two Cap-stands, with the same Number of Men working them, and labouring with those below them, to drag the _Obelisk_. The Wreaths of the Ropes in particular, are very nicely cut. If the Reader could apprehend the manner in which this cumbersome Pillar was erected, I believe he would judge it was done the way, as _Marcellinus_ describes. There was nothing wanting, says he, but the Erection of the _Obelisk_, the Accomplishment of which, without the greatest Danger, could scarcely be conceiv’d. You might see, says he, a vast Wood of Scaffolding made of tall Beams: At the Top of these were fix’d large, and long Ropes, after the manner of Threads in a Weaver’s Loom; which by their Thickness and Closeness to one another, darkned the Air. These Ropes at the Bottom were fastned round the _Obelisk_, which being leisurely drawn into the Air, many thousands working at the Cap-stands, was at last fix’d upon its _Basis_. I believe there are at present Engineers at _Constantinople_, who could do the same thing. I am induc’d to think so, by what I observ’d of a Pillar on the Side of the fifth Hill, which was almost equal in Magnitude to this _Obelisk_. I saw this Pillar taken off its _Basis_, and laid upon the Ground in the following manner. Round the Pillar, though at some Distance from it, they fix’d in the Ground near to one another large Poles, much taller than the Pillar, at an equal Distance from each other. At the Top of these Poles, they laid others across them, which were fasten’d to them in the strongest manner, and to which were fix’d the Pullies, through which the Ropes slipp’d, which reach’d from the Bottom of the Shaft of the Pillar to the Top, and were fasten’d to it: The Ropes were so thick, both length-ways and cross-ways, that at some Distance the Scaffolding look’d like a square Tower. There were many Cap-stands on all Sides fix’d in the Ground, which were turn’d by infinite Numbers of the strongest Youth, till they had mov’d it from its _Basis_, and laid it prostrate with the Earth. They afterwards laid it upon strong Carriages, the Wheels of which were bound with thick Iron, and brought it safe to the third Hill, and set it up as an Ornament to the _Mosque_ of _Solyman_ the Emperor. But to return to the _Obelisk_; on the West-side of the Pedestal was the following Inscription in _Greek_: