Chapter M: Caesari Augusti F. Cos. L. Caesari (5)

The ancient _cité_ of Carcassonne stands on the summit of a hill on the right bank of the river. It is still surrounded by its double wall of enceinte, studded with round and square towers, and dominated by the masses of the ancient castle, which rise boldly above the steep and rocky hillside, and present a sight as novel and picturesque as can well be imagined (Fig. 109). The site is naturally a strong one, and was doubtless occupied from a very early period as a primitive fortress. It afterwards became a Roman town, and was surrounded by the Romans with walls.

The Visigoths, who were absorbed into the native population and continued the Roman civilisation, rebuilt the walls, some of which still survive, apparently on the Roman foundations and after the Roman manner. The Roman system of fortification consisted in erecting two walls to form an outer and inner face, the space between which was filled up with earth and stones. The level of the ground on the inside of the fortress was kept much higher than that on the exterior, and a broad parapet walk, easily accessible from the interior level, ran round the top of the wall, and was protected towards the outside with a parapet.

At Carcassonne the more ancient parts of the curtains are composed of two walls built with small cubic masonry, alternating with courses of thin bricks (Fig. 110), the central space being, however, filled, not with earth, but with rubble masonry and mortar. The level of the ground is much higher next the town than towards the exterior.

Some of the towers of the Visigoths still remain, and rise considerably above the curtains. These, like the towers of the Romans, are circular to the exterior and square next the city, on which side they are also open, both for the purpose of admitting of munitions being easily hoisted up to them from below, and also to render them useless in the hands of an enemy as against the town. Externally they are furnished with embrasures at the top, which were provided with a swinging wooden shutter for defence, to support the pivots of which stone hooks are inserted at the eaves. The top is covered with a pointed roof (_see_ Fig. 110).

The towers were detached from the curtains by

a pit or gap in the parapet walk where it adjoined them, so that each tower might form a separate post, and be defended independently. The lower part of the walls, being below the interior level of the ground, was peculiarly liable to be attacked by mining and battering, against which the defenders could make no direct resistance. The besiegers, as they knocked out parts of the wall, supported the superstructure in a temporary manner with wooden props, and when they had completed their mining operations, they set fire to the props, and the wall above fell and formed a breach.

Like the Roman permanent camps, these fortified cities had a castle or citadel, which was almost invariably placed on the highest point of the site, and adjoined the enceinte so as to command and defend the town, and, at the same time, be in a position to receive supplies and reinforcements from without. Within the castle, again, was a still further security in the donjon, or redoubt, which was detached from the other works, and often had a ditch and an enclosing wall, or _chemise_, of its own, and could be held after all the other defences had succumbed. Such walls as those of the Visigoths at Carcassonne were sufficient to resist the means of attack employed from the fifth to the eleventh century. At that period of revival a great improvement took place all round, and there can be no doubt that the early Crusaders learned much in the East with regard to the science of attack and defence of strongholds. In the eleventh and twelfth centuries, towers like those of the Normans were erected, which depended for their security on the natural strength of the site, and the great height and thickness of the walls--their height protecting them against assault by scaling, and their mass and position against the mine and battering ram. They were further strengthened with outer walls and ditches.

A very interesting description, illustrative of the manner of carrying on and resisting siege operations, is quoted by Viollet-le-Duc from a report rendered by Guillaume des Ormes, Seneschal of Carcassonne, to Queen Blanche, on the raising of the siege of that town by Trenceval in 1240. The report details how the besiegers and defenders battered one another with mongonneaux; how they mined and countermined; how part of the wall was sapped, and a breach formed, inside of which the defenders raised a wooden _bretêche_, crowned with hoards, and armed with archers.

On St Louis’ return from his first crusade, he was desirous to strengthen his position in the newly-acquired dominions of the Count of Toulouse. He, therefore, resolved to make a strong citadel of Carcassonne. For this purpose the houses in the suburbs were cleared away, and a new town, or bastide, was established, as above mentioned, for the ejected inhabitants on the opposite side of the river, where the new town now stands.

Under King Louis the outer enceinte of Carcassonne was rebuilt (Fig. 111). Between this and the inner wall of enceinte a space is left, called the “lices,” in which troops can circulate, and patrols and sentries move in safety. The ground of the “lices” is nearly on the same level as the present parapet of the outer wall, while the wall is about thirty feet above the soil outside. The towers are built with an open side next the “lices,” so that, even if taken by the enemy, they could not be held by him against the inner walls. St Louis also erected an immense barbican, or round redoubt, at the base of the hill, between Carcassonne and the Aude, so as to command the river, and allow of sorties being made on the level ground adjoining it.

Philippe le Hardi continued the works of the fortifications

till his death in 1285, his operations being chiefly on the east and south sides.

There are two principal gateways in the walls, the Porte de l’Aude and the PORTE NARBONNAISE (Fig. 112), both strongly defended with towers and other works. There are also six posterns, all placed in angles so as to be masked by the towers, and generally several feet above the level of the ground. These were useful for relieving sentries, and for the movement of troops in the “lices.” Opposite some of the posterns the outer walls are provided with large barbicans (Fig. 113), in which soldiers might be concentrated for sorties. As above mentioned, the great circular barbican at the base of the hill was also employed for this purpose. Nothing could give a better idea of the multiplicity and complication of the means of defence then employed than the mode of connection between this barbican and the castle. The rampart or passage which led to the castle above was especially well fortified. It was steep, and the ascent was interrupted with several cross walls with doors, approached by steps which were all commanded from the walls and curtains above, and from a great tower at the top, all armed with _bretêches_ or hoards. Towards the upper end the passage turned to the right, and was flanked by the defences above. A small gate was then reached, within which the passage doubled back again to the left, and was stopped by another gate, beyond which it entered a narrow covered way of three storys in height, each commanding the one below by means of machicolations or apertures in the floor, so that, if the first floor was gained, the assailant found himself in a trap, and was battered from above. If all these defences were surmounted, the besieger was only the length of the “lices,” and had still above him the lofty walls and towers of the castle, and the strongly-fortified

postern, with its movable bridge, double machicolations, loop-holes, portcullis, and gates. Even within this, the entrance to the castle was impeded by a sloping and turning passage, furnished with numerous doors, and rising for twenty-three feet before the level of the courtyard was reached.

Such defences were almost impregnable, and are a good illustration of the intricacy of the fortifications adopted at that period. At a later time such contrivances were found to be a mistake, as they impeded the movements of the garrison. They proved a weakness rather than a strength by preventing men from being moved rapidly to a critical point at the required time. The leading idea, at this period, was to render every point of the defences independent of the rest. Each tower is, therefore, a separate fort; the castle and barbican are independent of the city walls, and could hold out although the town was in the hands of the enemy; and within the castle there are two independent towers or donjons, which might still form a refuge for the garrison for some time after the castle was taken.

The lofty square tower (_see_ Fig. 110), which was crowned with a _bretêche_, was carried up to a sufficient height to dominate the town and the whole surrounding country. This structure and some of the adjoining walls date from the twelfth century. The other buildings on the north side of the castle are of the time of St Louis. The inner enceinte of the castle with its towers and gates built by Philippe le Hardi (the latter part of the thirteenth century) are splendid examples of the military works of the period.

The walls of the towers surrounding the town are built with solid masonry in regular courses, with the face left rough. The lower part of the curtains is pierced with the long loops, sometimes 11 or 12 feet in length, then in use, and the top was fortified with hoardings or projecting wooden galleries, from the floor of which the defenders could drop stones and other missiles on the assailants, so as to keep them off from the base and prevent mining. All the walls and towers were furnished with these hoardings. The square holes in which the beams were inserted for carrying the galleries are still visible both in the outer and inner walls (Figs. 110-113).

The towers are placed at suitable intervals to enable the curtains to be defended from them by lateral fire, and some of them are strengthened with a projecting beak to prevent the sappers from approaching when the angle could not be well commanded from the adjoining parapets, as is the case in the tower at the N.W. angle of the walls seen in Fig. 111. One large square tower (shown in Fig. 111) called the “Tour de l’Evêque” joins the outer and inner enceintes together by bridging over the space between them. It has thus complete control over the lices both from apertures in the vault, and from the hoardings which were projected on the flanks. This tower derives additional interest from having been used by Viollet-le-Duc as his studio while superintending the work of restoration, and it contains a number of fine plaster casts prepared by him.

The parapet walk of the inner wall runs all round the battlements. In some cases it is interrupted by the towers (Fig. 114), and passes through them; in other cases it is carried round the exterior of the towers on the side next the town,--the former towers being posts for guards and sentinels, and the latter being intended to serve as independent posts for defence. Access to the walls is provided by good open stairs on the side next the town, as shewn in Fig. 114, which represents the interior of the walls at the same place, as Fig. 113 shews the exterior.

The ramparts of Carcassonne have been to a large extent restored within recent years; but still remain untouched on the eastern side (_see_ Fig. 112), where houses have been erected against the inner and upon the top of the outer walls, so as to convert the “lices” into a street. On this side the walls of the town are separated from the surrounding land, which here is rather high, by a wide and deep ditch. The high ground beyond the ditch was originally fortified with a large round tower (now destroyed) which is supposed to have communicated with the town by a subterranean passage.

Above the old houses on the walls are seen rising the great towers of the Porte Narbonnaise, each strengthened with a salient beak. Between these towers is the gateway. It had no drawbridge, but was defended in front by a great chain, a wide machicolation, a portcullis, and folding gates. In the centre of the vault over the archway there was a large opening, and the inner gateway was strengthened with a wide machicolation, a second portcullis, and a second gate. Besides these the towers were of course provided with their hoardings and a _bretêche_ projected over the gateway. The great angle tower, called the “Trésau,” and a large angle bartizan further protected the approach of the gateway, as seen in the sketch.

Such were the fortifications of Carcassonne, the chief frontier fortress on the side of Aragon, and there can be little doubt that against the means of attack then employed, they were practically impregnable.

The ancient Church of St Nazaire at Carcassonne may be taken as an example of the ruder form which the Romanesque style assumed in a district not far removed from Provence. It occupies the highest point of the height on which stands the ancient fortified _cité_ of Carcassonne.

The church is placed near the walls of the city, and the west end is elevated and fortified so as to form part of the defences. The entrance to the nave is by a twelfth century doorway in the north aisle. The building consists of two portions, which form a striking contrast with one another (Fig. 115); the nave of the eleventh century, and the Romanesque choir of the fourteenth, the former of a massive and gloomy design, the latter of the lightest and most elegant Gothic.

The older portion consists of a central nave and two side aisles, separated by enormous piers, which are alternately plain cylinders and squares with an engaged column on each face. The bases of the piers vary greatly in form--none of them being of Roman design, but all set upon a great square block. The caps of the cylindrical piers differ considerably, but consist of large mouldings, with corbels and billet ornaments. The pier arches are circular, and the aisles lofty, and vaulted with round arches. Rising from the caps of the cylindrical piers are short columns, the caps of which carry the pointed transverse ribs of the tunnel vault of the nave, which is also pointed, and probably belongs to the twelfth century. The caps of these short columns, and of the attached shafts of the square piers, are all very large and bold, and seem to be founded on Roman designs.

The light Gothic work of the choir, with its tall slender shafts, and walls composed almost entirely of mullions and stained glass, forms a brilliant termination to the vista of the ponderous nave. It belongs to a much later period than the latter, having been erected by Bishop Pierre de Rochefort, 1320-30. It is a palpable instance of the extension of the Gothic style of the Royal Domain along with that of the Royal Power, having been erected shortly after Carcassonne was united to France.

Viollet-le-Duc considers this choir one of the most instructive instances of the scientific method of construction adopted by the Gothic architects of the fourteenth century; and he points out that the architect has endeavoured to keep up the idea of the ancient nave in the new work by preserving in the choir the plan of the nave piers--those of the central compartments being square, with attached shafts, while the others are round on plan.

We shall now return to Aigues Mortes, which, it will be remembered, was reserved for consideration along with Carcassonne.

AIGUES MORTES is another town of the age of St Louis and his son Philip the Bold, the fortifications of which have, by great good fortune, been preserved almost untouched since the date of their erection. This probably arises from the fact that Aigues Mortes presents one of the most striking instances of the “villes mortes,” whose history is so feelingly depicted by M. Lenthéric. It stands in the midst of the lagunes and marshes which here cover a large extent of country connected with the delta of the Rhone. The origin of the town dates from the time of St Louis. At that period the Kingdom of France had not as yet extended to the Mediterranean, but King Louis, being a devoted Crusader, was very desirous that his country should possess a port on that sea, from which his armies might embark in their expeditions against the Infidels. This there was some difficulty in obtaining, the harbours on the coast being almost wholly subject to the Count of Béziers or the Count of Provence. It happened, however, that a small portion of the sea-coast, including a lagune and a navigable canal, which belonged to the ancient and wealthy Abbey of Psalmodi was available, and this King Louis secured from the monks in the year 1248, in exchange for other lands near Sommière. At

this place there existed an ancient tower, called the “Tour de Matafère,” said to be of the time of Charlemagne, who had bestowed it on the abbey.

The Tower of Matafère was rebuilt by St Louis, and renamed the “Tour de Constance” (Fig. 116). It is of great size, and was designed to form the citadel of the projected town of Aigues Mortes. It has frequently been supposed that, in the time of St Louis, this tower was washed by the waters of the Mediterranean, and that the sea, which is now some miles distant, has receded since then. But M. Lenthéric shews most distinctly that this is a complete mistake, and that the coast line was, in the thirteenth century, precisely where it now is. At that time, however, the town was surrounded with the waters of an inland lagune, through the shallows and marshes connected with which a canal had to be kept open for access to the sea, as was formerly the case at Narbonne, and still is in the lagune of Venice. The canal by which St Louis embarked on his crusades was called the Canal Viel. It was about five miles in length from the town to the opening in the sand dunes, called the “Grau Louis,” where it debouched into the sea. Since that time the canal from the town to the sea has three times changed its course. For about a century after the time of St Louis this port was greatly frequented by merchants from Genoa, but it has long been little used, and all the commerce of Aigues Mortes has now died away.

The walls of Aigues Mortes were traced out by St Louis, but the superstructure was executed by his son, Philip the Bold. The latter in 1272 took possession of the country of Toulouse and arranged with the Genoese Boccanera to construct the walls of Aigues Mortes for a sum equal to 88,500 francs. The town is laid out as a regular parallelogram with streets at right angles,

like the bastide of Carcassonne on the north side of the Aude. The walls are built with solid masonry, having the natural surface left rough or bossy. Fifteen towers surround the city and strengthen the curtains at the angles and on the flanks. There are nine gates, two principal ones, and the others smaller.

Being only a fortification of the second order the defences of Aigues Mortes are not nearly of so complete a type as those of the important fortress of Carcassonne. The towers are generally round, though some of them, following the Southern fashion, are square and project only slightly (Fig. 117). The gateways pass directly through the square towers, which, as we have seen at Avignon, was a decidedly Southern custom; and none of the circular towers have strengthening beaks. The towers are so placed with reference to the walls that some of them, as at Carcassonne, interrupt the parapet walk, while in others it is carried round the outside of the inner face of the tower, and is supported on large mouldings which form a continuous corbelling. This is shewn in the view of one of the towers above a gateway taken from within the walls (Fig. 118). The stairs giving access to the walls and the interior of the loopholes are also seen in this view.

The walls of the town, which are about 30 feet high, are all provided with a crenellated parapet, having long loops in the merlons between the embrasures. The wall heads have also been defended with wooden hoardings, the holes for the beams which carried them being very distinctly visible all round the fortress. The lower part of the wall is perforated with very long narrow slits. The interior recesses connected with these are formed with wide splays like window bays, and are provided with stone seats for the defenders (_see_ Fig. 118). Probably the great

length of the loops was to enable bowmen to operate both while standing on the floor and on the seats, or even on temporary wooden platforms at different heights, and also to aim their arrows either high or low. The open staircases leading to the walls are carried up on the side next the town in the same way as those of Carcassonne.

In approaching the town from the north the PORTE DE NIMES (Fig. 119) is first seen in front, while a long vista of the northern wall with its towers stretches to the left, and the Tour de Constance terminates the view to the right. This gateway has as usual a large strengthening round tower on each side, containing guardrooms, &c., and is so arranged as to form an independent post.

Till the fourteenth century, gateways of this description were defended with folding gates, portcullis, machicolations (or apertures in the vault over the entrance passages), and with _bretêches_ or hoardings projecting over the entrance, pierced with single, double, or even triple tiers of loopholes from which to attack the assailants. But there were as yet no drawbridges. At the Porte de Nimes evidences may be observed of a drawbridge, wrought with long balanced beams or levers passing through the wall, having been used; but it has evidently been introduced at a later time.

The walls of Aigues Mortes were entirely surrounded with a wet ditch (a few indications of which still remain), but it has for the most part been filled up and converted into a promenade. The ditch would be crossed with moveable wooden bridges which could be easily removed or destroyed.

A projecting stone balcony is corbelled out from one of the round towers of the Porte de Nimes. This was no doubt a station from which audience could be given to heralds or others wishing to communicate with the

town without the necessity of opening any of the gates or other defences. The fortifications present on plan a right angled parallelogram about 600 yards from east to west, by 150 yards from north to south, with a curved portion cut out of the north-west angle. At this point stands the donjon, or Tour de Constance (_see_ Fig. 116), built by St Louis, as above mentioned, on the site of the ancient Tour de Matafère in order to form the citadel of the town. This tower is of the simplest possible design, being a plain cylinder about 70 feet in diameter, with a talus or slope near the base. It is about 100 feet high, and was no doubt originally crowned with overhanging hoardings, and when fully equipped would present an appearance not unlike the well known great Keep of Couci Castle.

The Tour de Constance was surrounded with a special ditch, and was connected with the town walls by means of narrow wooden gangways, which could be easily removed. The top has been altered in the sixteenth century, and made into a platform, and provided with a parapet suitable for guns. Above the circular staircase in the thickness of the wall the watch turret rises to a considerable height, and is crowned with the iron grille which for long contained the fire which illumined the canal, and served as a beacon to the ships.

Simple as is the exterior of this keep, its interior is full of interest and beauty. The walls, as high as the first floor, are 20 feet in thickness. The basement contains the storage and has a well in the centre, over which an eye in the vaults above allows water to be raised to every floor.

The entrance door is on the first floor on the side next the town, and there is also a postern on this floor on the side next the country. From the landing at the former, a staircase leads to the second floor, and is so contrived that the lower part is completely overlooked and commanded from the upper part. At the landing where the staircase gives access to the great apartment on the upper floor, a beautifully arched and groined lobby is constructed, and is decorated with Gothic shafts and enriched caps.

The great hall on the first floor is vaulted in one span, with large pointed ribs springing from finely-carved caps. On the level of the floor there are recesses in the thick walls, giving access to long loops which descend far below the floor, so as to enable the defenders to shoot down as close as possible to the base of the tower. The postern is also seen from the inside (although now built up externally), with its portcullis (or rather a modern imitation) _in situ_. The interior is lit only by the narrow loop-holes, and is, therefore, very dark. A gallery runs round in the thickness of the upper part of the walls of the hall, with windows looking into the apartment from which it might be watched and commanded. Between the recess of one of the loops and the postern a fireplace is introduced, with an oven in the wall behind it. The hearth is covered with a boldly projecting hood, supported on two brackets carved with foliage. The angles of the hood have ornamental crockets, and the hood itself is carved in imitation of tiles. The whole work is massive and yet fine, and specially recalls, both in construction and ornament, the style of Couci. It has evidently been the work of a Northern architect brought with him by King Louis.

About two miles to the north of Aigues Mortes stands the “Tour Carbonnière,” which formed an outpost of the town. It was erected at the same time as the fortifications, and was placed so as to command the approach, which was only practicable by one course through the marshes and canals. It is a good example of a detached thirteenth century tower, and in style strongly resembles that of Villeneuve, at the west end of the bridge of St Bénezet, at Avignon.

* * * * *

We shall now return to Marseilles, and strike eastwards by the Mediterranean Railway, along the Riviera.

For a considerable distance no architectural remains of importance are met with. The line passes through a rocky and mountainous country, the bare summits of the lofty peaks contrasting strongly with the rich verdure and luxuriant growth of the valleys below them, in which the subtropical vegetation of the Riviera now begins to shew itself.

After penetrating a mountain range by tunnel, the seacoast is reached, and some lovely bays are passed before sighting the lofty peaks of the mountains, each crowned with its fort, which surround and protect Toulon, the great arsenal of France on the Mediterranean. Architecturally there is little of interest in the town, but the harbour with its narrow antique quay, lined with houses fronting the basin, which is crowded with the peculiarly rigged trading vessels of the district, is well worthy of a visit. It recalls in some respects the Riva de’ Schiavoni at Venice, with its bustle and varied interest.

The railway to Hyères branches off the main line at La Pauline Station. Just before reaching this, the ancient and picturesque town of La Garde is passed. Its houses are clustered on the slope of a basaltic rock, the summit of which is crowned with the ruins of an ancient castle, and a church. The aspect of this old place forms a good introduction to the picturesque and decayed character of the numerous ancient towns to be met with all along the Riviera.

HYÈRES is the first reached in travelling eastwards of the great health resorts of the Riviera. It stands on the southern slope of a hill facing the sea, which is visible at a distance of about three miles off. The rocky summit of the hill is crowned with the ruins of an ancient castle, from which the steep and narrow streets of the old town radiate downwards. The town was formerly surrounded with walls, which have now been removed, and the space converted into a wide promenade, on which flourish the palms, oranges, and other tropical plants for which Hyères is famous. The modern houses and hotels are also situated on this fair terrace, while some remains of the gateways connected with the old ramparts are still preserved. Hyères stands high above the level of the sea and the plain which extends between it and the foot of the hill. It thus commands an extensive view to the south and south-west over the peninsula of Giens, and the Mediterranean dotted with the groups of Islands named after it, “les Iles d’Hyères.”

There is nothing remarkable in the history of Hyères. In Roman times a fortress existed here called Castrum Aræarum.

In the thirteenth century the place was held by the Count of Fos, who was dispossessed by Charles of Anjou. Thereafter the castle and town passed through the usual assaults and changes, and during the sixteenth century was in possession of the Catholics and Protestants in turn.

The enceinte of the castle (Fig. 120) is well preserved, many of the towers which strengthen it being almost entire. These are for the most part square and lofty, and have thus quite a Southern aspect. The original crenellations still exist, together with the holes for the short beams which carried the wooden hoardings for defence at the summit. The openings are generally long narrow slits, but in the eastern angle tower three small pointed windows occur. The keep is almost entirely demolished. It occupied the summit of the rock, and from its ruins a commanding and extensive prospect is obtained. The walls are probably not older than the thirteenth century. Within the enceinte the ground is laid out as a private vineyard.

In the middle of the old town stands the picturesque church of St Paul, approached from a terrace commanding a beautiful view seawards, by a wide staircase crowned with a corbelled tower. It is originally of the twelfth century, but has been altered. The walls of the east end have had to be brought up from a considerable depth, owing to the great slope of the ground, and the lower part of the buttresses shew work like that of the thirteenth century, but the upper part is later. Internally the church has four bays and an apse--all late--the caps of the piers being of Renaissance work. The central nave and aisles are all groined. A wide chapel crosses the building at the west end, and is surmounted with a plain square tower (Fig. 121) of the type of the Italian campanile, of which numerous specimens are to be met with at Grasse and elsewhere along the Riviera. The upper round arched doorway, with its immense voussoirs, indicates a style of work of which several examples are to be met with in the town, and which is doubtless of Moorish or Spanish origin.

The Hôtel de Ville, on the place Massillon in the old town, occupies the chapel of a Commandery of the Templars. It has been much altered and renovated, but with its picturesque round tower at one side it has a good deal of character. A few portions of old houses present some good fragments of Mediæval Architecture here and there.

The main line of railway between Toulon and Fréjus makes a great curve inland, so as to pass through the level and fertile valley lying between the detached and rugged district of “Les Maures” on the south, and the Alpines on the north. Half way along this valley is the station of Le Luc, about six miles to the northward of which stands a structure of great interest to the student of Architecture.

We have already explained the ascetic sentiments which actuated the early Cistertians in the construction of their buildings. Without some knowledge of the principles of these primitive reformers it would be difficult to understand the origin and meaning of much of the architecture of Provence. In the midst of the usually ornate structures of the country, we come occasionally on some important and remarkable churches, which, from the plainness and simplicity of their style, present a complete contrast to the former. Such are the three early daughters of Citeaux erected during the twelfth century at Senanque, Silvacanne, and Thoronet. The churches of these monasteries are all remarkably similar in design, and carry out to the letter the plainness and absence of decoration required by St Bernard.

Of this Thoronet is a striking example. This abbey is situated in a retired rural valley, about six miles north from Le Luc Station. On leaving the station, the road, after passing a large monastery with its chapel and cypresses, ascends by a steep footpath the hill on which stands the ancient town of CANNET (Fig. 122) still partly surrounded with its mediæval walls. A delightful walk of two or three miles through a narrow and rocky valley clad with olives leads to the village of Thoronet, two miles beyond which the monastery is reached. It stands concealed by olive groves on the western slope of a narrow valley, through which flows a small stream, a tributary of the Argens. The church, with its plain apse and little spire, first meets the view, followed, on near approach, by the ruinous but extensive buildings of the monastery which disappear amongst foliage down the slope of the hillside. The public road now runs through the upper part of the enclosure of the abbey, and close along the south side of the church; while part of the monastic buildings to the west are occupied as a tavern or farmhouse.

THE MONASTERY OF THORONET was founded in the beginning of the twelfth century, on ground granted by Raymond de Béranger, Count of Provence, to the monks of Citeaux, and continued to be occupied by that order till their property was secularised and sold at the Revolution. The plan is that usual in Cistertian buildings of the period. The church has a nave, with central and side aisles, crossed at the east end by a large transept, from which, in the centre, a short choir having a circular apse, and two smaller chapels with altars in each transept, extend towards the east. At Thoronet the choir and chapels have apsidal terminations, but in some Cistertian churches the east end is square. Nothing could exceed the unadorned nature of the design, both externally and internally. The west end (Fig. 123) shews the principal entrance, which is a plain round-headed doorway, without even a moulding. The tall windows and the round one in this gable are treated equally simply. These, and a round

window over the apse, give the principal light in the church, which, like the other Southern churches vaulted on the same principle, has no clerestory. There is an alcove for a tomb in the exterior of the wall of the south aisle, but it is now empty. The interior (Fig. 124) presents, as it were, the bare skeleton of the other churches of Provence which we have already considered, without any of their ornamentation. The piers of the nave are simply portions of a side wall set on square slabs as a base, with a plain break to sustain the inner member of the nave arch. Above these rises the perfectly plain, pointed, barrel vault, strengthened with simple square-cut transverse arches, which spring from round attached vaulting shafts, resting on the plainest possible corbels, and having caps of a very simple form.

The vault of the central nave is buttressed by half vaults in the side aisles, which are of the same design.

The tiles of the roof, both of the central nave and the side aisles, rest directly on the outside of the vaults without any wooden construction. This, as we have seen, is the usual arrangement in the churches of Provence, such as Notre Dame des Doms, Avignon, and St Trophime, Arles.

The cloister, and some of the monastic buildings adjoining, are well preserved. A similar simplicity reigns throughout these. The cloister consists, as usual, of four arcades enclosing a garth on the north side of the church. The arcade next the nave is on a higher level than the other three, owing to the slope of the hill, and is only one story high, there being no rooms on this side for an upper gallery to give access to. The other three sides of the cloister had originally an upper floor, with open arches next the garth, and an open timber roof. These galleries gave access to the dormitory and other apartments on the upper floor. The arcades of the cloisters (Fig. 125) are of a very

simple form, consisting of plain round arches in the wall, filled in with a single solid shaft supporting two smaller round arches, and a circular eye above. The arches are absolutely without mouldings. The caps and bases of the central shafts (Fig. 126) are of very simple design--a small leaf or uncarved set-off being all that is allowed to cover the passage from round to square, and any such enrichments are most elementary, both in design and execution. It will, however, be observed that these primitive ornaments, although simple, are _original_. They show no trace of Roman traditions, which, as formerly pointed out, were entirely renounced by the Cistertians in their reformed Provençal art. These very elementary forms are thus the prototypes of the new and natural style of ornamentation above referred to in Part V. as having been introduced by the Cistertian Order. The small arches rest on an impost formed of a plain string course, which, together with the plain splay of the base, are cut off at the outer face of the wall, and do not return round it. This mode of cutting off strings, etc., is of frequent occurrence in buildings of this type.

The cloister walks are covered with plain, pointed, tunnel vaults, strengthened at intervals with square transverse ribs resting on plain corbels, which are inserted in a string course, formed of a simple ovolo.

At the intersection of the cloister walks the pointed vaults meet, and the junction is covered with a pair of square diagonal ribs intersecting one another in the angle.

Opening from the north side of the cloister is a hexagonal chamber, which served as the lavatory of the monks. It projects into the garth from the arcade (_see_ Fig. 125), and has five windows, three of which are plain round-headed openings, and the two others are each finished with two small arches and a circular eye like those of the cloisters. A double doorway gives access from the cloister walk. The basin or vase for washing, which formerly stood in the centre, now lies broken in the garden.

The chapter-house opens into the eastern side of the cloisters by a doorway with a pointed arch, and two side windows, with three openings in each. These openings were for the purpose of enabling the monks in the cloister to hear what passed in the chapter-house. The latter is vaulted with groined-pointed vaults--the ribs being square with bead on angles, supported by two short and dumpy pillars, with spurred bases and remarkable caps, somewhat more ornamental than the others. In the east wing, over the chapter-house, the dormitory still exists, roofed with a wide barrel vault, strengthened with transverse ribs.

From the simple design of the cloister it is apparent how completely the Cistertians renounced the fine shafts and delicate carving of the cloisters of the early Provençal type like those of Aix, with their light wooden roofs, and gave preference to vaults, as being more enduring, while at the same time they rejected all sculpture and ornament. Although simple and plain to a degree, there is a unity of purpose and an originality of character in this new and vigorous style which commands respect if not admiration.

Senanque, Silvacanne, and Thoronet were all built in the severe style of the first fervour of the Cistertians early in the twelfth century. By the end of the century this first enthusiasm became an affectation of simplicity and was gradually tempered by the preponderating influence of the Clunisiens, who were more in harmony with the spirit of the times than the rigid Cistertians,--the general tendency of the age being to great richness in architecture.

At a later period the monastery of Thoronet seems to have been enclosed with walls, within which the grounds were laid out with taste and elegance. Few examples of this refinement have escaped destruction; but a fountain, with its basin set in an alcove in the outer wall, still survives (Fig. 127), and serves to refresh the traveller on the dusty highway which now passes through the pleasure gardens of the monks.

At ST MAXIMIN, which lies considerably to the west of Thoronet and is most conveniently approached by the railway between Aix and Carnoulles by Brignoles, there exists a church of a totally different character. It is said to be the most perfect specimen in Provence of a building in the pure Gothic style. The design has evidently been imported directly from the

North, and is precisely such an edifice as one would expect to meet with in the Ile de France. Its presence here therefore strikes one with surprise, and with a sense of incongruity with its surroundings. This church was begun towards the end of the thirteenth century by Charles of Anjou, but was not finished till the close of the fifteenth

century. The plan shews a central nave with side aisles, each terminated to the east with an apse. There is no transept. The vaults are pointed and simple in form. The central vault (Fig. 128) is lofty, being about 90 feet to the apex. When complete the aspect of the church must have been extremely light and fairy-like. The lofty windows of the clerestory and apse, which are all pointed, fill up with their traceries nearly the whole visible space, the masonry being reduced to its smallest limits. The same idea was carried out in the side aisles, where the windows were originally brought down almost to the pavement. When these windows were all filled with stained glass, as they are believed to have been (although it is now completely gone), the effect must have been very fine, and all the more splendid from the remarkable contrast it would present to the usually somewhat dark and gloomy character of Southern churches. Side chapels have now been added, and the aisle windows shut up by them; and it is stated that the structure is generally very much destroyed. Unfortunately the west façade has never been completed.

From Le Luc the railway follows the course of the wide and fertile valley of the River Argens to Fréjus, the ancient Roman _Forum Julii_, so rich, as we have already seen, in Roman remains; and its Mediæval buildings will be found to be not less interesting.

The Cathedral of Fréjus, erected probably in the twelfth century, is a prominent example of the adoption in Provence of the “single-hall” style of church, which (as explained in Part V.) was so universal in the south and west of France. The original church (Fig. 129) consists of

a nave of three divisions or bays, each covered with round intersecting vaults, strengthened with large square groins, and terminated at the east end with a circular apse, the whole extending to 120 feet in length by 28 feet in width. The vaults spring from piers, which are really large internal buttresses, with recesses between them 7 feet deep (Fig. 130). The north side wall has, however, been cut out, and a side aisle added at a later date, with still later chapels beyond. The string courses, caps, etc., are all of the same simple forms employed in so many buildings of the period. Nothing could be plainer or more devoid of ornament than

this massive and impressive edifice. The exterior of the cathedral has undergone many changes. The Bishop’s Palace adjoins it on the south, and covers a large part of the south wall. The whole series of buildings connected with the cathedral, have at one time been enclosed with a strong wall, built in regular courses, left rough on the surface. Some portions of this work are visible in the outer wall next the street at the west end. There, intermingled with a great deal of modern addition and alteration, may still be traced the remains of two windows (Fig. 131) of the twelfth or early thirteenth century, with circular arches springing from carved caps. In the jambs of one of these windows the caps still surmount projecting shafts standing on corbels, but they have disappeared from the other. The details are given in Fig. 133. Several of the original small windows of the basement, however, remain unaltered. They have the circular heads and the deeply splayed external ingoing of the period.

The east end of the cathedral (Fig. 132) is very remarkable. The apse, which is circular within, is only slightly rounded externally, and is carried up to a considerable height as a tower of defence, and armed with an embattled parapet at the top, supported on bold corbels with machicolations between them.

Fréjus Cathedral is thus another instance of the numerous fortified churches so characteristic of the South, and formed part of the general fortified enclosure which protected the Bishop’s Palace and the other ecclesiastical buildings connected with the see. Adjoining the apse considerable remains of the ancient Bishop’s Palace may still be traced, shewing (amidst modern alterations) work similar to that of the west end, and containing coupled pointed windows and doors with round arches. The enclosing and fortifying of the precincts seem to have been carried out at a time subsequent to the erection of the cathedral. This explains the peculiar form of the tower over the apse, and likewise the manner in which the ancient baptistery is enclosed in a similar mural envelope. The work was probably executed, to judge from the style, early in the thirteenth century. In that

century too the tower at the west end of the church seems to have been erected over what was probably the original narthex or anti-church. Internally the lower portions are executed in the style of the Gothic of the North, and the heavy tower above (Fig. 133) may possibly be of the same date. The coloured tiles, which give the spire a special character, are no doubt much more modern. We also find here other examples of work of different kinds and various periods. Of these the ancient baptistery (Fig. 134) is a structure of great interest. It stands at the west end of what seems to have been originally, although now covered in, a small open court, such as generally existed in front of the western entrances to the early churches. The plan of the baptistery is octagonal, being the same as that adopted for the primitive baptisteries in Italy. Octagonal or circular edifices such as this are frequently called Roman temples; but, although they very closely resemble Roman work, they are found, on an examination of the details, to be only imitated from classic design, and are clearly of Christian origin.

At Fréjus, the baptistery is ornamented with a granite monolithic column in each of its eight angles, provided with caps of white marble. The caps and bases (Fig. 134) are varied in design, and are all closely imitated from the Corinthian, although none of them are exactly after that pattern. The massive fragment of stone, moulded on the front, which is placed over each, is probably a survival or reminiscence of the entablature which was always thought necessary in classic times. The upper portion, which was most likely an octagonal dome in the original building, is now modernised. The plan shews an attempt to make the floor as square as possible, by means of four deep niches introduced in the four angles. The central font is peculiar in form, and stands on a fragment of an ancient column.

In connection with this baptistery it may be interesting here to call attention to the fact that a monument in the same style, but superior in size and design, still exists at

RIEZ, an ancient Roman colony instituted under the patronage of Augustus, some distance to the north-west of Draguinon. The original town was built on the plain watered by the river Colastre (a tributary of the Verdon), but the inhabitants have long abandoned the low ground, and the houses now stand an the slope of the Mont Saint-Maximin above. In the deserted plain are to be found four Corinthian columns of grey granite from the Esterel with caps, bases, and architraves of marble. These, according to Texier and Pullan, formed the façade of a prostyle temple.

The numerous fragments of pottery and mosaics which are constantly dug up, and a large quantity of portions of columns and architraves built into the modern walls, shew that the Roman works here were at one time considerable.

In the chapel of St Maxime six Roman columns have been utilized. But the most remarkable monument of the place is the so-called “Temple” or “Pantheon.” This consists externally of a plain square structure, 37 feet each way, but internally it is octagonal in plan (Fig. 135), with four deep niches in the sides opposite the angles of the square. Within the octagon are eight columns standing detached, so as to form an aisle all round, while they support an octagonal drum (Fig. 136), roofed over with a dome. The aisle is vaulted, with an irregular form, composed of about three-fourths of a pointed arch. The columns are ancient, but they have evidently been removed from their original position, being unequal in the length of the shafts, and the size and design of the capitals, and have no doubt been collected from various sources. Texier

and Pullan believe that this was an ancient Roman structure converted to Christian uses in the sixth century; but excavations in the floor have revealed the remains of a large baptismal basin, similar to the original Italian ones, thus leaving no doubt as to the primitive destination of the structure. The pointed arch over the aisle is also a sign of its belonging to post-Roman times. It is certainly one of the most interesting of the early Christian edifices in Provence.

Returning to Fréjus, we observe that the cloisters, which are on the north side of the small court or lobby adjoining the baptistery, were erected at a somewhat later date than the tower, in a style strongly recalling the Italian-Gothic of Florence and Genoa, which we here meet with for the first time in our eastward progress (Fig. 137). The arcades of the cloisters are plain, and rest on coupled columns, with caps carved in the style of the Italian-Gothic of the fifteenth century, the whole being carefully and elegantly executed in white marble; and, though now sadly built up and mutilated, they still possess a wonderfully picturesque and charming effect. The coupled columns were evidently not intended to support vaulting, but to carry the unique and effective wooden roof (Fig. 138), part of which still exists, but is so greatly decayed that it has to be supported with rough props and wedges. At a still later period the entrance front of the cathedral has been altered and finished in its present ungainly form (Fig. 133). The floor of the cathedral, owing to the slope of the ground, is several feet below the present level outside, and has to be approached by descending steps. Originally the entrance to the narthex was no doubt on the level of the cathedral floor. The outside level has apparently, however, been heightened before the present entrance doorway was built, as it