Chapter VI: Part 6

[112] PORTABLE SOUP, _or_ GLAZE.--(No. 252.)--Desire the Butcher to break the bones of a Leg or a Shin of Beef, of 10 pounds weight (the fresher killed the better), put it into a Soup-pot (a DIGESTER is the best utensil for this purpose) that will well hold it; just cover it with cold water, and set it on the fire to heat gradually till it nearly boils, (this should be at least an hour);--skim it attentively while any scum rises,--pour in a little cold water, to throw up the scum that may remain,--let it come to a boil again, and again skim it carefully: when no more scum rises, and the broth appears clear, (put in neither Roots nor Herbs nor Salt,) let it boil for eight or ten hours, and then strain it through a hair sieve into a brown stone pan; set the Broth where it will cool quickly; put the meat into a sieve, let it drain, make Potted Beef (No. 503),--or it will be very acceptable to many poor families. Next day remove every particle of _Fat_ from the top of it, and pour it through a Tammis or fine sieve as quietly as possible into a Stewpan, taking care not to let any of the settlings at the bottom of the stone pan go into the Stewpan, which should be of thick Copper, perfectly well tinned; add a quarter of an ounce of whole Black Pepper to it, let it boil briskly, with the stewpan uncovered, on a quick fire: if any scum rises, take it off with a skimmer; when it begins to thicken, and is reduced to about a quart, put it into a smaller stewpan; set it over a gentler fire, till it is reduced to the thickness of a very thick Syrup; take care that it does not burn,--_a moment's inattention now will lose you all your labour, and the soup will be spoiled_:--take a little of it out in a spoon and let it cool; if it sets into strong Jelly, it is done enough;--if it does not, boil it a little longer, till it does;--have ready some little pots, such as are used for Potted Meats, about an inch and a half deep, taking care that they are quite dry;--we recommend it to be kept in these pots, if it is for home consumption--(_the less it is reduced, the better is the flavour of the Soup_)--if it be sufficiently concentrated to keep for six months;--if you wish to preserve it longer, put it into such bladders as are used for German Sausages,--or if you prefer it in the form of Cakes, pour it into a dish about a quarter of an inch deep; when it is cold, turn it out and weigh the Cake, and divide it with a paste-cutter into pieces of half an ounce and an ounce each; place them in a warm room, and turn them frequently till they are thoroughly dried;--this will take a week or ten days; turn them twice a day;--when well hardened, if kept in a dry place, they may be preserved for several years in any climate.

This extract of Meat makes excellent "_Tablettes de Bouillon_," for those who are obliged to endure long fasting.

_Obs._--The uses of this concentrated _Essence of Meat_ are numerous. It is equally economical and convenient for making _extempore_ Broths, Sauces and Gravies for Hashed or Stewed Meat, Game, or Poultry, &c.

You may thicken it and flavour it as directed in (No. 329);--to make _Gravy_, Sauces, &c. take double the quantity ordered for _Broth_.

If you have time and opportunity, as there is no seasoning in the Soup, either of Roots, Herbs, or Spice, boil an Onion with or without a bit of Parsley, and Sweet Herbs, and a few corns of Allspice, or other Spice, in the water you melt the Soup in, which may be flavoured with Mushroom Catsup (No. 439),--or Eschalot Wine (No. 402),--Essence of Sweet Herbs (No. 417),--Savoury Spice (Nos. 421, or 457),--Essence of Celery (No. 409), &c. or Zest (No. 255);--these may be combined in the proportions most agreeable to the palate of the Eater--and are as portable as Portable Soup, for a very small portion will flavour a Pint.

The Editor adds nothing to the solution of this Soup, but a very little ground Black Pepper and some Salt.

_Mem._ THIS PORTABLE SOUP is a most convenient article in Cookery--especially in _Small Families_, where it will save a great deal of time and trouble. It is also _Economical_, for no more will be melted than is wanted--so there is no waste.

SHIN OF BEEF, weighing nine pounds, and costing 1_s._ 10-1/2_d._ produced nine ounces of concentrated Soup, sufficiently reduced to keep for several months. After the boiling, the Bones in this joint weighed two pounds and a quarter, and the Meat two pounds and a quarter.

As it is difficult to obtain this ready-made of good quality--and we could not find any proper and circumstantial directions for making it, which on trial answered the purpose,--and it is really a great acquisition to the Army and Navy--to Travellers, Invalids, &c.--the Editor has bestowed some time, &c. in endeavouring to learn--and to teach how it may be prepared in the easiest,--most economical and perfect manner.

The ordinary selling price is from 10_s._ to 12_s._--but you may make it according to the above Receipt for 3_s._ 6_d._ per Pound--_i. e._ for 2-1/2_d._ per Ounce, which will make you a Pint of Broth.

Those who do not regard the expense, and like the flavour, may add the lean of Ham, in the proportion of a pound to eight pounds of Leg of Beef.

It may also be flavoured, by adding to it, at the time you put the Broth into the smaller Stewpan, Mushroom Catsup, Shallot Wine, Essences of Spice or Herbs, &c.;--we prefer it quite plain--it is then ready to be converted in an instant into a basin of Beef Tea for an Invalid, and any flavour may be immediately communicated to it by the Magazine of Taste (No. 463.)

_Mutton Chops delicately Stewed, and good Mutton Broth._--(No. 490.)--Put a Pound of Chops into a stewpan with cold water enough to cover them, and half a pint over, and an Onion,--when it is coming to a boil, skim it, cover the pan close, and set it _over a very slow Fire_ till the Chops are tender,--if they have been kept a proper time, they will take about three quarters of an hour's _very gentle simmering_. Send up Turnips with them, (No. 130), they may be boiled with the chops, skim well, and then send all up in a deep dish, with the Broth they were stewed in.

N.B. _The Broth_ will make an Economist one,--and _the Meat_ another wholesome and comfortable meal.

[113] Men are but rarely "framed so in the prodigality of Nature," as to have all their Senses in perfection--very few have a single one, that approximates within many degrees of it--the Eye of Raphael, the Ear of Handel, the Palate of Apicius--or the sensitive touch of the blind Girl, who could _feel Colours_--are pancratic faculties which are seldom produced.

The following division of the Senses is so excellent, that I copy it from the scarce Book referred to below:--

"I distinguish the SIX SENSES by the character of noxious and innocent. The first three, _Thinking_--_Seeing_--and _Hearing_--are the innocent. The last three, _Feeling_--_Tasting_--and _Smelling_--the noxious.

"I pursue Happiness, or systematic pleasurable sensation, in the cultivation of the first class--and in the control of the latter."--See the LIFE OF JOHN STEWART THE TRAVELLER, p. 12.

[114] "I took two pieces of Mutton, each weighing 45 grains, and having _chewed_ one as much as I used to chew my food--enclosed them in two separate spheres--and swallowed them at the same time--these tubes were voided at the same time--of the masticated meat there remained only 4 grains--of the other there were 18 left."

"_The necessity of Mastication_ is sufficiently known--there is perhaps no person who has not, some time or other, suffered from Indigestion, for want of having chewed his food properly. The reason is obvious. Not to mention the saliva which moistens the food, and predisposes it to be dissolved, it cannot be doubted, that when it is reduced to pieces by the action of the Teeth, the gastric fluid penetrates, and attacking it at more points, dissolves it more speedily than when it was whole. This is true of menstrua in general, which always dissolve bodies sooner when they have been previously broken to pieces. This is also the reason why, in other experiments, masticated bread and _dressed_ flesh were more readily dissolved than unchewed bread and _raw_ flesh. The boiling had made it tenderer, and consequently disposed it to allow ingress to the gastric fluid."--SPALLANZANI _on Digestion_, vol. i. p. 277.

[115] In no branch of the practice of Physic, is there more _Dangerous Quackery_, than in this department--the only means we can furnish our friends with to avoid this--is to recommend them to apply to a scientific Dentist of acknowledged integrity and experience.--Our own Mouth is under considerable obligations to Mr. EDMONDS, of Conduit Street, Hanover Square.

[116] "Slave-dealers are well acquainted with the characteristic signs of perfect Health--any defect of which much diminishes the value of a Slave. The want of _a Tooth_ makes a Slave worth two Dollars less."--FINKE'S _Medical Geography_, vol. i. p. 449.