Chapter LI: Appendix: I (2)

_A._ One is located at the top of each cylinder and can be taken out easily with the spark plug wrench included with every car, after the wire connection is removed. The high voltage current flows out of the secondary coils in the coil box and on reaching the contact points on each spark plug it is forced to jump ¹⁄₃₂″ gap, thereby forming a spark which ignites the gasoline charge in the cylinders.

The spark plug should be kept clean (i. e., free from carbon) and should be replaced if they persist in not working properly. There is nothing to be gained by experimenting with different makes of plugs. The make of plug with which Ford engines are equipped when they leave the factory are best adapted to the requirements of our motor, notwithstanding the opinion of various garage men to the contrary. All wire connections to spark plugs, coil box and commutator should, of course, at all times be kept in perfect contact.

_Q._ What are the indications of ignition trouble?

_A._ The uneven sputter and bang of the exhaust means that one or more cylinders are exploding irregularly or not at all, and that the trouble should be promptly located and overcome. Misfiring, if allowed to continue, will in time injure the engine and the entire mechanism. If you would be known as a good driver you will be satisfied only with a soft, steady purr from the exhaust. If anything goes wrong, stop and fix it if possible. Do not wait until you get home.

_Q._ How can one tell which cylinder is missing?

_A._ This is done by manipulating the vibrators on the spark coils. Open the throttle until the engine is running at a good speed and then hold down the two outside vibrators, No. 1 and No. 4, with the fingers, so they cannot buzz. This cuts out the two corresponding cylinders, No. 1 and No. 4, leaving only No. 2 and No. 3 running. If they explode regularly it is obvious the trouble is in either No. 1 or No. 4. Relieve No. 4 and hold down No. 2 and No. 3 and also No. 1; if No. 4 cylinder explodes evenly it is evident the misfiring is in No. 1. In this manner all of the cylinders in turn can be tested until the trouble is located. Examine both the spark plug and the vibrator of the missing cylinder.

_Q._ If the coil and plug are right, what?

_A._ The trouble is probably due to an improperly seated valve, worn commutator, or short circuit in the commutator wiring. Weakness in the valves may be easily determined by lifting the starting crank slowly the length of the stroke of each cylinder in turn, a strong or weak compression in any particular valve being easily detected. It sometimes happens that the cylinder head gasket (packing) becomes leaky permitting the gas under compression to escape, a condition that can be detected by running a little lubricating oil around the edge of the gasket and noticing whether bubbles appear or not.

_Q._ Does a worn commutator ever cause misfiring?

_A._ Yes. If misfiring occurs when running at high speed, inspect the commutator. The surface of the circle around which the roller travels should be clean and smooth, so that the roller makes a perfect contact at all points. If the roller fails to make a good contact on any of the four points, its corresponding cylinder will not fire. Clean these surfaces if dirty. In case the fiber, contact points, and roller of the commutator are badly worn, the most satisfactory remedy is to replace them with new parts. The trouble is probably caused by short circuited commutator wires. The spring should be strong enough to make a firm contact between the roller points if they are worn or dirty.

_Q._ How is the commutator removed?

_A._ Remove cotter pin from spark rod and detach latter from commutator. Loosen the cap screw which goes through breather pipe on top of time gear cover. This will release the spring which holds the commutator case in place and this part can be readily removed. Unscrew lock nut; withdraw steel brush cap and drive out the retaining pin. The brush can then be removed from the cam shaft.

In replacing the brush, care must be exercised to see that it is reinstated so that the exhaust valve on the first cylinder is closed when the brush points upward. This may be ascertained by removing the valve door and observing the operation of No. 1 valve.

_Q._ Does cold weather affect the commutator?

_A._ It is a well known fact that in cold weather the best grades of lubricating oil are apt to congeal to some extent. If this occurs in the commutator it is very apt to prevent the roller from making perfect contact with the contact points imbedded in the fiber. This, of course, makes difficult starting, as the roller arm spring is not stiff enough to brush away the film of oil which naturally forms over the contact points. To overcome this, as well as any liability to the contact points to rust, we recommend a mixture of 25% kerosene with the commutator lubricating oil, which will thin it sufficiently to prevent congealing, or freezing, as it is commonly called. You have probably noticed in starting your car in cold weather that perhaps only one or two cylinders will fire for the first minute or so, which indicates that the timer is in the condition described above and as a consequence a perfect contact is not being made on each of the four terminals.

_Q._ How is the magneto removed?

_A._ It is necessary to take the power plant out of the car in order to remove the magneto. Then remove crank case and transmission cover. Take out the four cap screws that hold the flywheel to the crank shaft. You will then have access to the magnets and entire magneto mechanism. In taking out these parts, or any parts of the car, the utmost care should be taken to make sure that the parts are marked in order that they may be replaced properly.

_Q._ What is to be done when the magneto gets out of order?

_A._ A Ford magneto is made of permanent magnets and there is very little likelihood of their ever losing their strength unless acted upon by some outside force. For instance, the attachments of a storage battery to the magneto terminal will demagnetize the magnets. If anything like this happens, it is not advisable to try to recharge them, but rather install a complete set of new magnets. The new magnets will be sent from the nearest agent or branch house, and will be placed on a board in identically the same manner as they should be when installed on the flywheel. Great care should be taken in assembling the magnets and lining up the magneto so that the faces of the magnets are separated from the surface of the coil spool just ¹⁄₃₂ of an inch. To take out the old magnets, simply remove the cap screw and bronze screw which hold each in place. The magneto is often blamed when the trouble is a weak current caused by waste or other foreign matter accumulating under the contact spring cover. Remove the three screws which hold the binding post in place; remove binding post and spring and replace after foreign substance has been removed.

VI

THE FORD TRANSMISSION

_Q._ What is the function of the transmission?

_A._ It is that part of the mechanism of an automobile which lies between the engine shaft and the propeller shaft and by which one is enabled to move at different speeds from the other. It is the speed gear of the car. It sends the car forward at low and high speeds and by it the car is reversed.

_Q._ What is meant by the term “planetary transmission”?

_A._ One in which the groups of gears always remain in mesh and revolve around a main axis. The different sets of gears are brought into action by stopping the revolution of the parts which support the gears. By means of bands (similar to brake bands) the rotation of the different parts is stopped. The planetary transmission is the simplest and most direct means of speed control and is a distinct advantage to the Ford car.

_Q._ What is the purpose of the clutch?

_A._ If the crank shaft of the engine ran without break straight through to the differential and through it applied its power direct to the rear wheels, the car would start forward immediately upon the starting of the engine (were it possible to get it started under such conditions). To overcome this difficulty the shaft is divided by means of the clutch. The part of the shaft to which the running engine is delivering its power is enabled to take hold of the unmoving part gradually and start the car without jolt or jar. The forward part of the shaft is referred to as the crank shaft, the rear part as the drive shaft.

_Q._ How is the clutch controlled?

_A._ By the left pedal at the driver’s feet. If the clutch pedal, when pushed forward into slow speed, has a tendency to stick and not to come back readily into high, tighten up the slow speed band. Should the machine have an inclination to creep forward when cranking, it indicates that the clutch lever screw which bears on the clutch lever cam has worn, and requires an extra turn to hold the clutch in neutral position. When the clutch is released by pulling back the hand lever the pedal should move forward the distance of 1³⁄₄″ in passing from high speed to neutral. See that the hub brake shoe and connections are in proper order so that the brake will act sufficiently to prevent the car creeping very far ahead. Also be sure that the slow speed band does not bind on account of being adjusted too tight. Do not use too heavy a grade of oil in cold weather, as it will have a tendency to congeal between the clutch discs and prevent proper action of the clutch.

_Q._ How is the clutch adjusted?

_A._ Remove the plate on the transmission cover under the floor boards at the driver’s seat. Take out the cotter key on the first clutch finger and give the set screw one-half to one complete turn to the right with a screw driver. Do the same to the other finger set screw. But be sure to give each the same number of turns and do not forget to replace the cotter key. And after a considerable period of service the wear in the clutch may be taken up by installing another pair of clutch discs, rather than by turning the adjusting screw in too far.

=Caution.= Let us warn you against placing any small tools or objects over or in the transmission case without a good wire or cord attached to them. It is almost impossible to recover them without taking off the transmission cover.

_Q._ How are the bands adjusted?

_A._ The slow speed bands may be tightened by loosening the lock nut at the right side of the transmission cover, and turning up the adjusting screw to the right. To tighten the brake and reverse bands, remove the transmission case cover door and turn the adjusting nuts on the shaft to the right. See that the bands do not drag on the drums when disengaged, as they exert a brake effect, and tend to overheat the motor. However, the foot brake should be adjusted so that a sudden pressure will stop the car immediately, or slide the rear wheels in case of emergency. The bands, when worn to such an extent that they will not take hold properly, should be relined, so that they will engage smoothly without causing a jerky movement of the car. The lining is inexpensive and may be had at any of the eight thousand Ford service stations at small cost.

Slow Speed Drum and Gear

Triple Gear

Brake Drum

Reverse Drum
and Gear

Clutch Disks

Driven Gear

Disk Drum

Triple Gear Pin

Clutch Push Ring

Trans. Shaft

Driving Plate

Flywheel

Group 1

Clutch Push Ring

Clutch Finger

Driving Plate

Triple Gear

Reverse Gear

Slow Speed Gear

Driven Gear

Clutch Shift

Clutch Spring

Clutch Spring Support

Group 5

Clutch Spring Support Pin

Group 4

Group 3

Group 2

Fig. 150. Ford Transmission Assembly]

_Q._ How are the bands removed?

_A._ Take off the door on top of transmission cover. Turn the reverse adjustment nut and the brake adjustment nut to the extreme ends of the pedal shafts, then remove the slow speed adjusting screw. Remove the bolts holding the transmission cover to the crank case and lift off the cover assembly. Slip the band nearest the flywheel over the first of the triple gears, then turn the band around so that the opening is downward. The band may now be removed by lifting upward. The operation is more easily accomplished if the three sets of triple gears are so placed that one set is about ten degrees to the right of center at top. Each band is removed by the same operation. It is necessary to shove each band forward on to the triple gears as at this point only is there sufficient clearance in the crank case to allow the ears of the transmission bands to be turned downward. By reversing this operation the bands may be installed. After being placed in their upright position on the drums pass a cord around the ears of the three bands, holding them in the center so that when putting the transmission cover in place no trouble will be experienced in getting the pedal shafts to rest in the notches in the band ears. The clutch release ring must be placed in the rear groove of the clutch shaft. With the cover in place remove the cord which held the bands in place while the cover was being installed.

_Q._ How is transmission assembled?

_A._ Cut No. 150 shows the transmission parts in their relative assembling positions and grouped in their different operations of assembling.

The first operation is the assembling of group No. 2, which is as follows: Place the brake drum on table with the hub in a vertical position. Place the slow speed plate over the hub with the gear uppermost. Then place reverse plate over the slow speed plate so that the reverse gear surrounds the slow speed gear. Fit the two keys in the hub just above the slow speed gear. Put the driven gear in position with the teeth downward so that they will come next to the slow speed gear. Take the three triple gears and mesh them with the driven gear according to the punch marks on the teeth, the reverse gear or smallest of the triple gear assembly being downward. After making sure that the triple gears are properly meshed tie them in place by passing a cord around the outside of the three gears. Take the flywheel and place it on the table with the face downward and the transmission shaft in vertical position. Then invert the group which you have assembled over the transmission shaft, setting it in position so that the triple gear pins on the flywheel will pass through the triple gears. This will bring the brake drum on top in a position to hold the clutch plates, etc. The next step is to fit the clutch drum key in the transmission shaft. Press the clutch disc drum over the shaft and put the set screw in place to hold the drum. Put the large disc over the clutch drum, then the small disc, alternating with large and small discs until the entire set of discs are in position, ending up with a large disc on top. If a small disc is on top it is liable to fall over the clutch in changing the speed from high to low and as a result you would be unable to change the speed back into high. Next put the clutch push rings over the clutch drum, and on top of the discs, with the three pins projecting upward (_see_ group No. 4, cut No. 149). You will note the remaining parts are placed as they will be assembled. Next bolt the driving plate in position so that the adjusting screws of the clutch fingers will bear against the clutch push ring pins. Before proceeding further it would be a good plan to test the transmission by moving the plates with the hands. If the transmission is properly assembled the flywheel will revolve freely while holding any of the drums stationary. The clutch parts may be assembled on the driving plate hub as follows: Slip the clutch shift over the hub so that the small end rests on the ends of the clutch fingers. Next put on the clutch spring, placing the clutch supports inside so that the flange will rest on the upper coil of the spring and press into place, inserting the pin in the driving plate hub through the holes in the side of the spring support. Then turn the clutch spring support until the pin fits into the lugs on the bottom of the support. The easiest method of compressing the spring sufficiently to insert the pin is to loosen the tension of the clutch finger by means of the adjusting screws. When tightening up the clutch again the spring should be compressed to within a space of two or two and one-sixteenth inches to insure against the clutch spring slipping. Care should be exercised to see that the screws in the fingers are adjusted so the spring is compressed evenly all around.

VII

THE REAR AXLE ASSEMBLY

_Q._ How is the rear axle removed?

_A._ Jack up car and remove rear wheels as instructed below. Take out the four bolts connecting the universal ball cap to the transmission case and cover. Disconnect brake rods. Remove nuts holding spring perches to rear axle housing flanges. Raise frame at the rear end, and the axle can be easily withdrawn.

_Q._ How is the universal joint disconnected from the drive shaft?

_A._ Remove two plugs from top and bottom of ball casting and turn shaft until pin comes opposite hole, drive out pin and joint can be pulled or forced away from the shaft and out of the housing.

_Q._ How are the rear axle and differential disassembled?

_A._ With the universal joint disconnected, remove nuts in front end of radius rods and the nuts on studs holding drive shaft tube to rear axle housing. Remove bolts which hold the two halves of differential together. If necessary to disassemble differential a very slight mechanical knowledge will permit one to immediately discern how to do it once it is exposed to view. Care must be exercised to get every pin, bolt and key lock back in its correct position when reassembling.

_Q._ How is the drive shaft pinion removed?

_A._ The end of the drive shaft, to which the pinion is attached, is tapered to fit the tapered hole in the pinion, which is keyed onto the shaft, and then secured by a cotter pinned “castle” nut. Remove the castle nut, and drive the pinion off.

_Q._ How are the differential gears removed?

_A._ The compensating gears are attached to the inner ends of the rear axle shaft. They work upon the spider gears when turning a corner, so that the axle shaft revolves independently, but when the car is moving in a straight line the spider gears and compensating gears and axle shaft move as an integral part. If you will examine the rear axle shafts you will notice that the gears are keyed on, and held in position by a ring which is in two halves and fits in a groove in the rear axle shaft. To remove the compensating gears, force them down on the shaft, that is, away from the end to which they are secured, drive out the two halves of ring in the grooves in shaft with screw driver or chisel, then force the gears off the end of the shafts.

Universal Joint Knuckle (Male)
Joint Housing
Joint Coupling Ring
Universal Joint Knuckle (Female)

Radius Rod Castle Nut
Radius Rod Lock Nut
Drive Shaft Front Bushing
Rear Radius Rod
Drive Shaft Tube
Drive Shaft

Ball Race
Ball Thrust Collar
Drive Shaft Pinion
Driving Gear
Drive Gear Screws
Drive Shaft
Drive Shaft Tube
Ball Bearing
Ball Bearing Housing
Roller Bearing
Roller Bearing Sleeve
Castle Nut
Differential Pinion
Differential Spider
Differential Gear
Rear Axle Housing (Right)
Thrust Washers

Rear Radius Rod
Rear Axle Brake Drum
Hub Brake Cam Shaft
Hub Brake Cam Shaft Lever
Radius Rod Bolt and Nut
Lock Wire
Thrust Washer (Steel)
Thrust Washer (Babbitt)
Thrust Washer (Steel)
Gear Case (Left)

Mud Cap
Cotter Pin
Castle Nut
Hub Key
Hub
Hub Flange
Roller Bearing Sleeve
Roller Bearing
Axle Housing Cap
Axle Roller Bearing Steel Washer
Brake Shoe Support Bolt and Nut
Rear Axle Shaft
Rear Axle Roller Bearing Sleeve
Rear Axle Roller Bearing
Rear Axle Housing (Left)

Gear Case (Right)
Differential Case Stud
Grease Plug

Fig. 151. Ford Rear Axle System]

_Q._ How is the rear axle shaft removed?

_A._ Disconnect rear axle as directed above, then unbolt the drive shaft assembly where it joins the rear axle housing at the differential. Disconnect the two radius rods at the outer end of the housing. Take out the bolts which hold the two halves of the rear axle housing together at the center. Take the inner differential casing apart and draw the axle shaft through the housing at the center. After replacing the axle shaft be sure that the rear wheels are firmly wedged on at the outer end of the axle shaft and the key in proper position. When the car has been driven thirty days or so, make it a point to remove the hub cap and set up the lock nut to overcome any play that might have developed. It is extremely important that the rear wheels are kept tight, otherwise the constant rocking back and forth against the key may in time cause serious trouble. If the rear axle or wheel is sprung by skidding against the curb, or other accident, it is false economy to drive the car, as tires, gears and all other parts will suffer. If the axle shaft is bent, it can, with proper facilities, be straightened, but it is best to replace it.

Axle Housing Cap
Hub Key
Lock Nut
Hub Brake Drum

Coil Spring
Hub Brake Cam
Axle Shaft
Hub Brake Shoe

Fig. 152. Ford Brake]

VIII

THE FORD MUFFLER

_Q._ Why is the muffler necessary?

_A._ The exhaust as it comes from the engine through the exhaust pipe would create a constant and distracting noise were it not for the muffler. From the comparatively small pipe, the exhaust is liberated into the larger chambers of the muffler, where the force of the exhaust is lessened by expansion and discharged out of the muffler with practically no noise. The Ford muffler construction is such that there is very little back pressure of the escaping gases, consequently there is nothing to be gained by putting a cut-out on the exhaust pipe between the engine and the muffler.

_Q._ How is the muffler kept in order?

_A._ It should be cleaned occasionally. Remove it and take off nuts on ends of rods which hold it together, and disassemble.

In reassembling muffler, be careful not to get the holes in the inner shells on the same side or end.

_Q._ How is the muffler disconnected?

_A._ To disconnect the muffler it is not necessary to disconnect the exhaust pipe from the motor (although it is a good plan and a simple matter, necessitating only unscrewing the union). To disconnect muffler from frame, unscrew union at formed end of pipe, drop it down so it will clear the frame and slip it back off the tube. If the muffler from any cause becomes materially damaged it will probably be cheaper to replace it with a new one than to attempt to repair it.

IX

THE RUNNING GEAR

_Q._ What care should the running gear have?

_A._ In the first place it at all times should have proper lubrication (_see_ chapter on Lubrication). Once in every thirty days the front and rear axles should be carefully gone over to see that every moving part, such as the bushings in spring connections, spring hangers, steering knuckles and hub bearings, are thoroughly lubricated, and that all nuts and connections are secured with center pins in place. The spring clips, which attach the front spring to the frame, should be inspected frequently to see that every thing is in perfect order.

Spindle oiler

Spindle Bolt

Spindle Body Bushing

Spindle Con. Rod Bolt

Spindle Con. Rod Yoke

Spindle Arm

Spoke

Felt Washer

Hub Bolt

Large Ball Race

Hub Flange

Hub

Spindle

Grease Chamber

Ball Bearings

Adjusting Cone

Lock Nut

Hub Cap

Washer

Ball Retainer

Small Ball Race

Clamp Bolt

Spindle Arm Nut

Spindle Body Bushing

Spidle Bolt Nut

Stationary Cone

Ball Retainer

Dust Ring

Fig. 153. Ford Spindle]

_Q._ How is the front axle removed?

_A._ Jack up front of car so wheels can be removed. Disconnect steering gear arm from the spindle connecting rod, disconnect radius rod at ball joint, and remove two cotter pin bolts from spring shackle on each side, so detaching front spring.

To disconnect radius rod entirely, take the two bolts out of the ball joint and remove lower half of cap.

_Q._ In case of accident, how is the front axle straightened?

_A._ Should the axle or spindle become bent, extreme care must be used to straighten the parts accurately. Do not heat the forgings, as this will distemper the steel, but straighten them cold. If convenient it would be better to return such parts to the factory, where they may be properly straightened in jigs designed for that purpose. It is very essential that the wheels line up properly. The eye is not sufficiently accurate to determine whether the parts have been properly straightened, and excessive wear of the front tires will occur if everything is not in perfect alignment.

_Q._ What about the wheels?

_A._ The wheels should be jacked up periodically and tested, not only for smoothness of running, but for side play as well. If in spinning a front wheel a sharp click is heard, now and then, and the wheel is momentarily checked, it is probable that there is a chipped or split ball in the bearing which should be removed, otherwise it may necessitate the removal of the entire bearing. A wheel in perfect adjustment should after spinning, come to rest with the tire valve directly below the hub. Undue wear of the hub bearings, such as cones, balls and races, is usually caused by lack of lubrication and excessive friction, due to the adjusting cone being drawn up too tight. It is a good plan to clean the bearing frequently and keep the hub well filled with grease.

_Q._ How are the wheels removed?

_A._ _Front wheels._ Take off hub cap, remove cotter pin and unscrew castle nut and spindle washer. The adjustable bearing cone can then be taken out and the wheel removed. Care should be taken to see that the cones and lock nuts are replaced on the same spindle from which they were removed, otherwise there is a liability of stripping the threads which are left on the left spindle and right on the opposite as you stand facing the car. _Back wheels._ They should not be removed unless absolutely necessary, in which case proceed as above. Then with a wheel puller remove the wheel from the tapered shaft to which it is locked with a key. In replacing rear wheels be sure that nut on axle shaft is as tight as possible and cotter pin in place. The hub caps of the rear wheels should be removed occasionally and the lock nuts which hold the hub in place tightened. If these nuts are allowed to work loose, the resulting play on the hub key may eventually twist off the axle shaft.

_Q._ How does the setting of the front wheels differ from that of the rear wheels?

_A._ It will be observed that the front wheels are “dished”; that is, the spokes are given a slight outward flare to enable them to meet side stresses with less rigid resistance, while the spokes of the rear wheels are straight. The front wheels are also placed at an angle, that is to say, the distance between the tops of the front wheels is about three inches greater than between the bottoms. This is to give perfect steering qualities and to save wear on tires when turning corners. The front wheels should not, however, “toe-in” at the front, at least not more than a quarter of an inch. Lines drawn along the outside of the wheels when the latter are straight in a forward position should be parallel. All wheels should always be kept in proper alignment, otherwise steering will be difficult and tire wear will be greatly increased. Adjustment can be made by turning the yoke at the left end of the spindle connecting rod, to draw the wheels into a parallel position.

_Q._ What care do the springs need?

_A._ The springs should be lubricated frequently with oil or graphite. To do this, pry the leaves apart near the ends and insert the lubricant between them. Whenever a car is given a general overhauling, the springs should be disassembled and the leaves polished with emery cloth, afterwards packing them with graphite when reassembling. Rust can be prevented from accumulating on the springs by painting them when necessary with a quick drying black paint. You will find that these suggestions if carried out will not only improve the riding qualities of the car but prolong the life of the parts as well.

_Q._ Should spring clips be kept tight?

_A._ Yes. If the spring clips are allowed to work loose the entire strain is put on the tie bolt which extends through the center of the spring. This may cause the bolt to be sheared off and allow the frame and body to shift to one side. It is a good plan to frequently inspect the clips which hold the springs to the frame and see that they are kept tight.

_Q._ What about the steering apparatus?

_A._ It is exceedingly simple and will need little care except, of course, proper lubrication. The post gears which are arranged in the “sun and planet” form are located at the top of the post just below the hub of the wheel. By loosening the set screw and unscrewing the cap after having removed the steering wheel they may readily be inspected and replenished with grease. To remove the steering wheel unscrew the nut on top of the post and drive the wheel off the shaft with a block of wood and hammer.

_Q._ How is the steering gear tightened?

_A._ Should the steering gear become loose, that is, so that a slight movement of the wheel does not produce immediate results, it may be tightened in the following manner: Disconnect the two halves of the ball sockets which surround the ball arm at the lower end of the steering post and file off the surface until they fit snugly around the ball. If the ball is badly worn it is best to replace it with a new one. Also tighten the ball caps at the other end of the steering gear connecting rod in the same manner. If the bolts in the steering spindle arms appear to be loose, the brass bushings should be replaced with new ones. Excessive play in the front axle may be detected by grasping one of the front wheels by the spokes and jerking the front axle back and forth. After the car has been in service two or three years excessive play in the steering gear may make necessary the renewal of the little pinions, as well as the brass internal gear just underneath the steering wheel spider.

It is also advisable to inspect the front spring hangers occasionally to determine whether or not new bushings are necessary to overcome any excessive vibration.

X

THE FORD LUBRICATING SYSTEM

_Q._ How does the Ford lubricating system differ from others?

_A._ It is simplified,--and there are fewer places to oil. Practically all of the parts of the engine and transmission are oiled by the Ford splash system, from the one big oil reservoir in the crank case. Fig. 154 shows the principal points of lubrication, and specifies when replenishment should be made, according to mileage. This chart should be studied carefully and often. It is a good plan to frequently supply all oil cups with the same oil used in the engine (any good light grade lubricating oil will answer) and the dope cups with good grease. Be sure to see that the commutator is kept freely supplied with oil at all times.

_Q._ Which is the best way to fill the dope cups?

_A._ When it is advisable to fill the dope cup covers screw them down, refill with grease and repeat the operation two or three times. Always open oil cups by turning to the right, as this keeps tightening them rather than loosening them. Occasionally remove front wheels and supply dope to wearing surface. A drop of oil now and then in crank handle bearing is necessary, also on fan belt pulleys and shaft. The axles, drive shaft, and universal joint are well supplied with lubricant when the car leaves the factory, but it is well to examine and oil them frequently.

A--Oil Every 200 Miles.

C--Grease Every 200 Miles.

B--Oil Every 500 Miles.

D--Grease Every 500 Miles.

E--Grease Every 1000 Miles.

F--Oil Motor Daily. Keep oil level between
crank case pet cocks.

G--Grease Every 5000 Miles.

Fig. 154. Ford Chassis Oiling Chart]

_Q._ What kind of oil should be used?

_A._ We recommend only light high grade gas engine oil for use in the model T motor. A light grade of oil is preferred as it will naturally reach the bearings with greater ease and consequently less heat will develop on account of friction. The oil should, however, have sufficient body so that the pressure between the two bearing surfaces will not force the oil out and allow the metal to come in actual contact. Heavy and inferior oils have a tendency to carbonize quickly, also “gum up” the piston rings, valve stems and bearing. In cold weather a light grade of oil having a low cold test is absolutely essential for the proper lubrication of the car. The nearest Ford branch will advise you concerning the lubricating oil this company has found best suited for its cars, both for summer and winter weather. Graphite should not be used as a lubricant in the engine or transmission as it will have a tendency to short circuit the magneto.

_Q._ How often should the oil be drained from crank cases?

_A._ It is advisable to clean out the crank case by draining out the dirty oil when the new car has been driven four or five hundred miles; thereafter it will only be necessary to repeat this operation about every thousand miles. Remove plug underneath the flywheel casing and drain off the oil. Replace the plug and pour in a gallon of kerosene oil through the breather pipe. Turn the engine over by hand fifteen or twenty times so that the splash from the kerosene oil will thoroughly clean the engine. Remove crank case plug and drain off kerosene oil. In order to get all of the kerosene out of the depressions in the crank case the car should be run up a little incline, about the height of the ordinary street curbing. Refill with fresh oil.

_Q._ How often should the commutator be oiled?

_A._ Keeping the commutator well oiled is a matter of far greater importance than many drivers believe, and is necessary in order to have a smooth operating engine. Do not be afraid to put a little oil into the commutator every other day--at least every two hundred miles. Remember that the commutator roller revolves very rapidly, and without sufficient oil the parts soon become badly worn. When in this condition perfect contact between the roller and the four contact points is impossible, as a result the engine is apt to misfire when running at a good rate of speed.

_Q._ What about lubricating the differentials?

_A._ Do not make the mistake of putting too much grease in the differential housing. The housing should not be more than one-third full. The differential is supplied with the required amount of lubricant when the car leaves the factory. The oil plug should be removed about every 1000 miles and more grease added if necessary. If a fluid is used the level should be approximately one and one-half inches below the oil hole.

XI

CARE OF TIRES

_Q._ How are Ford tires removed?

_A._ First, jack up the wheel clear of the road. The valve cap should be unscrewed, the lock nut removed and the valve stem pushed into the tire until its bead is flush with the rim. This done, loosen up the head of the shoe in the clinch of the rim by working and pushing with the hands, then insert one of the tire irons or levers under the beads. The tire iron should be pushed in just enough to get a good hold on the under side of the bead, but not so far as to pinch the inner tube between the rim and the tool. A second iron should be inserted in the same fashion some seven or eight inches from the first, and a third tool the same distance from the second. As a cylinder tire must be pried over the clinch, three or four levers will come in handy in a case of a “one man job,” and the knee of the driver can be used to good advantage to hold down one lever while the other two are being manipulated in working the shoe clear of the rim. After freeing a length of the bead from the clinch, the entire outer edge of the casing may be readily detached with the hand, and the damaged inner tube removed and “patched” or a spare tube inserted. Always use plenty of soapstone in replacing an inner tube.

_Q._ How are casings repaired?

_A._ Should the casing be cut so there is danger of the inner tube being blown through it, a temporary repair can be made by cementing a canvas patch on the inside of the casing. Before applying the patch the part of the casing affected should be cleaned with gasoline and when dry, rubber cement applied to both casing and patch. This will answer as an emergency repair, but the casing should be vulcanized at the first opportunity.

To prolong the life of the tire casings, any small cuts in the tread should be filled with patching cement and a specially prepared “plastic” sold by tire companies.

_Q._ How may tire expense be reduced?

_A._ Tire cost constitutes one of the most important items in the running expenses of an automobile. To get the most service at the least expense, the tire should be inspected frequently and all small cuts or holes properly sealed or repaired,--thus preventing dirt and water working in between the rubber tread and the fabric, causing blisters or sand boils.

Tires should never be run partially deflated, as the side walls are unduly bent and the fabric is subject to stress, which is known as rim cutting. The chances of getting a puncture will be greatly reduced by keeping your tires properly inflated, as a hard tire exposes much less surface to the road than a soft tire, and also deflects sharp objects that would penetrate a soft tire.

Running a flat tire, even for a short distance, is sure to be costly. Better run on the rim, very slowly and carefully, rather than on a flat tire.

Remember that fast driving and skidding shorten the life of the tires. Avoid locking the wheels with the brakes,--no tire will stand the strain of being dragged over the pavement in this fashion.

Avoid running in street car tracks, in ruts, or bumping the side of the tire against the curbing.

The wheel rims should be painted each season and kept free from rust.

When a car is idle for any appreciable length of time, it should be jacked up to take the load off the tires. If the car is laid up for many months, it is best to remove the tires, and wrap up the outer casings and inner tubes separately, and store them in a dark room not exposed to extreme temperature. Remove oil or grease from the tires with gasoline. Remember that heat, light and oil are three natural enemies to rubber.

_Q._ How is a puncture in the inner tube repaired?

_A._ After locating the puncture, carefully clean the rubber around the leak with benzine or gasoline. Then rough the surface with sand paper from your tire repair kit to give a hold for the cement. Apply the cement to both patch and tube, allowing it to dry for about five minutes, repeating the application twice with like intervals between for drying. When the cement is dry and sticky press the patch against the tube firmly and thoroughly to remove all air bubbles beneath it and insure proper adherence to the surface. Then spread some soapstone or talc powder over the repair so as to prevent the tube sticking to the casing. Before the tube is put back into the casing plenty of talc powder should be sprinkled into the latter. A cement patch is not usually permanent and the tube should be vulcanized as soon as possible. In replacing the tire on the rim be very careful not to pinch the tube.

XII

POINTS ON MAINTENANCE

_Q._ What is the proper way to wash the car?

_A._ Always use cold or lukewarm water,--never hot water. If a hose is used, do not turn on the water at full force, as this drives the dirt into the varnish and injures the finish. After the surplus mud and grime have been washed off, take a sponge and clean the body and running gear with a tepid solution of water and ivory or linseed oil soap. Then rinse off with cold water; then rub dry and polish the body with a chamois skin. A body or furniture polish of good quality may be used to add luster to the car. Grease on the running gear may be removed with a gasoline soaked sponge or rag. The nickeled parts may be polished with any good metal polish.

_Q._ What care does the top need?

_A._ When putting the top down be careful in folding to see that the fabric is not pinched between the bow spacers, as they will chafe a hole through the top very quickly. Always slip the hood over the top when folded to keep out dust and dirt. Applying a good top dressing will greatly improve the appearance of an old top.

_Q._ What should be done when the car is stored?

_A._ Drain the water from the radiator, and then put in about a quart of denatured alcohol to prevent freezing of any water that may possibly remain. Remove cylinder head and clean out any carbon deposits in combustion chamber. Draw off all the gasoline. Drain the dirty oil from the crank case and cleanse the engine with kerosene as directed above. Refill the crank case with fresh oil and revolve the engine enough to cover the different parts with oil. Remove the tires and store them away. Wash up the car, and if possible cover the body with a sheet of muslin to protect the finish.

_Q._ What attention do the electric headlights require?

_A._ Very little. When the cars leave our factory the lamps are properly focussed and unless the bulb burns out there should be no occasion for removing the door, as there is nothing to get out of order. Should the door be removed for any reason care should be exercised not to touch the silver-plated reflector or the bulb with anything but a soft, clean rag, preferably flannel. To focus the lamps turn the adjusting screw in the back of the lamp in either direction until the desired focus is attained. The bulbs we are furnishing in electric head lamps are 8 volts, 2 amperes, and best results will be obtained by securing lamps of this voltage and amperage when replacement is necessary.

XIII

THE FORD MODEL T ONE TON TRUCK

_Q._ Do the instructions relative to the car apply to the truck?

_A._ The answers pertaining to the car are applicable to the truck.

_Q._ How is the rear axle removed?

_A._ Jack up the truck, place supports under rear axle housings, and remove the rear wheels. Take out the four bolts connecting the universal ball cap to the transmission case and cover. Disconnect brake rods. Remove nuts holding spring perches to rear axle housing flanges. Raise frame by placing a long iron bar or gas pipe under the frame just in front of rear spring, one end resting on a substantial support of the proper height. Two workmen at the other end of the bar can raise the frame and place the end of the bar on another support. The rear axle assembly can then be easily removed.

_Q._ How is the universal joint disconnected from the drive shaft?

_A._ Remove two plugs from top and bottom of ball casting and turn shaft until pin comes opposite hole, drive out pin and the joint can be pulled or forced away from the shaft and out of the housing.

_Q._ How are the rear axle and differential disassembled?

_A._ With the universal joint disconnected, remove the bolt in front end of radius rods and the cap screws which hold the drive shaft tube to the rear axle housing. Then remove the rear axle housing cap; also the bolts which hold the two halves of the differential housing together. With the differential exposed to view, the manner of disassembling it will be apparent. Care must be exercised to get every part back in its correct position when reassembling, being sure to use new paper liners.

_Q._ How is the worm removed?

_A._ To remove the worm, drive out the pins which hold the coupling to the worm and drive shaft. Then remove the felt washer, roller bearing sleeve, and roller bearing by slipping them over the coupling. Drive the coupling off from the drive shaft and then force the worm from the coupling. Removing the worm nut will permit the removal of the retaining washer, thrust bearing and rear worm roller bearing. In reassembling be sure that the pin which holds the retaining washer stationary is in place.

_Q._ How is the rear axle shaft removed?

_A._ Remove the rear axle assembly as directed above. Disconnect brake rods and radius rods at rear axle housing flange; also remove nuts holding spring perches to flanges. Take out the cap screws holding the drive shaft tube to the rear axle housing and remove the rear axle housing cap and the bolts which hold the two halves of the differential housing together, then pull or force the housing from the shafts and disassemble differential. After replacing the axle shaft be sure that the rear wheels are firmly wedged on at the outer end of the axle shaft and the key in proper position. When the truck has been driven thirty days or so make it a point to remove the hub cap and set up the lock nut to overcome any play that might have developed. It is extremely important that the rear wheels are kept tight, otherwise the constant rocking back and forth against the keyway may in time cause serious trouble.

_Q._ How is the differential gear removed from the shaft?

_A._ The differential gear is fastened to the inner end of the rear axle shaft by means of splines, and is held in position by a ring which is in two halves and fits in a groove in the rear axle shaft. To remove the gear, force it down on the shaft, that is, away from the end to which it is fastened, drive out the two halves of the ring in groove in shaft with screw driver or chisel, and force the gear off the end of the shaft.

_Q._ What about lubricating the rear axle?

_A._ Extreme care must be used in lubricating the differential. An A-1 heavy fluid or semi-fluid oil, such as Mobiloil C or Whittemore’s Worm Gear Protective, should be used and cared at a level with the upper oil plug. The differential is supplied with the required amount of lubricant when the car leaves the factory and the supply should be maintained by replenishments as required. After running the truck about 500 miles, the oil should be drained off by removing the lower oil plug, and the differential filled with fresh lubricant. This operation should be repeated at approximately 1000 miles, and after that whenever necessary. The rear axle outer roller bearings are lubricated by means of dope cups. These cups should be kept filled with a good grade of grease and given a full turn every 100 miles. Before putting the truck back into service after the rear axle has been taken out fill the differential with oil, jack up the axle and run it for five or ten minutes to insure proper lubricant of all bearings.

XIV

THE F. A. STARTING AND LIGHTING SYSTEM INSTALLED ON SEDANS AND COUPÉS

_Q._ Of what does the starting and lighting system consist?

_A._ The starting and lighting system is of the two unit type and consists of the starting motor, generator, storage battery, charging indicator, and lights, together with the necessary wiring and connections.

_Q._ Where is the starter located?

_A._ The starting motor is mounted on the left hand side of the engine and bolted to the transmission cover. When in operation the pinion on the Bendix drive shaft engages with the teeth on the flywheel.

_Q._ What must be done before starting the engine?

_A._ The spark and the throttle levers should be placed in the same position on the quadrant as when cranking by hand, and the ignition switch turned on. Current from either battery or magneto may be used for ignition. When starting, especially when the engine is cold the ignition switch should be turned to battery. As soon as the engine is warmed up, turn switch back to magneto. The magneto was designed to furnish ignition for the Model T engine and better results will be obtained by operating in this way. Special attention must be paid to the position of the spark lever as a too advanced spark will cause serious backfiring which in turn will bend or break the shaft in the starter. The starting motor is operated by a push button, conveniently located in the floor of the car at the driver’s feet. With the spark and throttle levers in the proper position, and the ignition switch turned on, press on the push button with the foot. This closes the circuit between the battery and the starting motor, causing the pinion of the Bendix drive shaft to engage with the teeth on the flywheel, thus turning over the crank shaft. When the engine is cold it may be necessary to prime it by pulling out the carburetor priming rod, which is located on the instrument board. In order to avoid flooding the engine with an over rich mixture of gas, the priming rod should only be held out for a few seconds at a time.

_Q._ What if the engine fails to start?

_A._ If the starting motor is turning the crank shaft over and the engine fails to start, the trouble is not in the starting system. In this event, release the button at once so as not to unnecessarily discharge the battery and inspect the carburetor and ignition system to determine the trouble.

_Q._ What if the starting motor fails to act?

_A._ If the starting motor fails to act, after pushing the button, first inspect the terminal on the starting motor, the two terminals on the battery and the two terminals on starting switch, making sure all the connections are tight; then examine the wiring for a break in the insulation that would cause a short circuit. If the wiring and connections are O. K. and the starting motor fails to act, test the battery with the hydrometer. If the hydrometer reading is less than 1.225 the trouble is no doubt due to a weak or discharged battery.

_Q._ How is the generator operated?