Chapter XVII: Act III: , sc. 5 (2)

1 pearl, weighing 25 grs. 25 × 25 = 625.000
2 pearls, each of 22 grs. 44 × 44 = 1936 ÷ 2 = 968.000
2 pearls, each of 20 grs. 40 × 40 = 1600 ÷ 2 = 800.000
2 pearls, each of 19 grs. 38 × 38 = 1444 ÷ 2 = 722.000
2 pearls, each of 18 grs. 36 × 36 = 1296 ÷ 2 = 648.000
2 pearls, each of 17½ grs. 35 × 35 = 1225 ÷ 2 = 612.500
2 pearls, each of 17 grs. 34 × 34 = 1156 ÷ 2 = 578.000
2 pearls, each of 16½ grs. 33 × 33 = 1089 ÷ 2 = 544.500
2 pearls, each of 16 grs. 32 × 32 = 1024 ÷ 2 = 512.000
2 pearls, each of 15½ grs. 31 × 31 = 961 ÷ 2 = 480.500
2 pearls, each of 15 grs. 30 × 30 = 900 ÷ 2 = 450.000
2 pearls, each of 14½ grs. 29 × 29 = 841 ÷ 2 = 420.500
2 pearls, each of 14 grs. 28 × 28 = 784 ÷ 2 = 392.000
2 pearls, each of 13½ grs. 27 × 27 = 729 ÷ 2 = 364.500
2 pearls, each of 13 grs. 26 × 26 = 676 ÷ 2 = 338.000
2 pearls, each of 12½ grs. 25 × 25 = 625 ÷ 2 = 312.500
2 pearls, each of 12 grs. 24 × 24 = 576 ÷ 2 = 288.000
2 pearls, each of 11½ grs. 23 × 23 = 529 ÷ 2 = 264.500
2 pearls, each of 11 grs. 22 × 22 = 484 ÷ 2 = 242.000
2 pearls, each of 10¾ grs. 21½ × 21½ = 462¼ ÷ 2 = 231.125
2 pearls, each of 10¼ grs. 20½ × 20½ = 420¼ ÷ 2 = 210.125
—— ——— ——————————
41 624 10,003.750
$10 × 10,003.75 = $100,037.50

THE SAME NECKLACE FIGURED IN GROUPS

1 pearl, weighing 25 grs. 25 × 25 = 625.00
2 pearls, total weight 44 grs. 44 × 44 = 1936 ÷ 2 = 968.00
4 pearls, total weight 78 grs. 78 × 78 = 6084 ÷ 4 = 1521.00
4 pearls, total weight 71 grs. 71 × 71 = 5041 ÷ 4 = 1260.25
6 pearls, total weight 99 grs. 99 × 99 = 9801 ÷ 6 = 1633.50
6 pearls, total weight 90 grs. 90 × 90 = 8100 ÷ 6 = 1350.00
6 pearls, total weight 81 grs. 81 × 81 = 6561 ÷ 6 = 1093.50
6 pearls, total weight 72 grs. 72 × 72 = 5184 ÷ 6 = 864.00
6 pearls, total weight 64 grs. 64 × 64 = 4096 ÷ 6 = 682.67
——— ———————
624 9997.92
$10 × 9997.92 = $99,979.20

GREAT PEARL NECKLACE OF THE FRENCH CROWN JEWELS

Composed of 362 pearls, weighing 58.8 grains. Actual size. Worn by
Empress Eugenia
]

On a $5 base this necklace would be worth $50,018.75 according to the first reckoning, and $49,989.60 according to the second; on a base of $2.50 the figures would be $25,009.37 and $24,994.80 respectively.

THE SAME NECKLACE FIGURED IN OTHER GROUPS

1 pearl, weighing 25 grs. 25 × 25 = 625.00
4 pearls, total weight 84 grs. 84 × 84 = 7056 ÷ 4 = 1764.00
6 pearls, total weight 109 grs. 109 × 109 = 11881 ÷ 6 = 1980.16
6 pearls, total weight 99 grs. 99 × 99 = 9801 ÷ 6 = 1633.50
6 pearls, total weight 90 grs. 90 × 90 = 8100 ÷ 6 = 1350.00
8 pearls, total weight 106 grs. 106 × 106 = 11236 ÷ 8 = 1404.50
10 pearls, total weight 111 grs. 111 × 111 = 12321 ÷ 10 = 1232.10
——— ———————
624 9989.26

$10 × 9989.26 = $99,892.60

On a $5 base this would represent a value of $49,946.30 and one of $24,973.15 on a base of $2.50. The different grouping of the pearls accounts for the slight reduction in value.

A system of estimating the value of pearls which has recently been introduced into Germany, is an adaptation of the ordinary method of squaring the number of grains and then multiplying the result by a certain base figure. The pearls are first grouped according to quality and size, and a figure is agreed upon as the multiplicator of each class. In Germany the carat is employed as the weight unit for pearls as well as for diamonds, and in this new system the total weight of a given number of pearls of the same class is first reduced to grains; the number of grains is then multiplied by four and the quotient is multiplied by the figure agreed upon. The resulting sum, after being divided by the number of pearls, gives the carat value of such pearls. For example, if the base figure agreed upon is 5, and we wish to find the carat worth of 4 pearls of similar size, weighing together 3–14⁄64 carats, the sum would be as follows:

206 × 4 × 4 × 5
——————————————— = 64.37
64 × 4

At this rate per carat, reckoning in marks, the value of the 3–14⁄64 carats would be 207.20 marks. This result is identical with that obtained by the ordinary method, but the calculation is perhaps a trifle simplified.[383]

A curious Hindu treatise on gems has been preserved for us in the Brhatsamhitâ of Varâhamihira (505–587 A.D.). It is the earliest work of this kind that we have in Sanskrit, and M. Louis Finot,[384] who has published it, together with several other similar treatises, believes that it was based upon an original composed at a much earlier period. In his introduction M. Finot says: “It would be an error to regard the ratnaçastra [treatise on gems] as a simple manual for the use of jewelers. Without doubt this subject formed one of the principal branches of commercial instruction, ... but it was also taught to princes and it is for their use that the ratnaçastras we publish seem to have been composed.”

This treatise only describes four gems, although a larger number are enumerated. These gems are the diamond, the pearl, the ruby, and the emerald. One of the most interesting portions is that treating of the valuation of pearls. The system described is peculiar, and, unfortunately, there is some difficulty in finding an absolutely correct equivalent for the values expressed.

A price is first placed upon a pearl weighing 4 mâsakas (about 45 grains). This is estimated at 5300 kârsâpanas (about $1600). As the weight diminishes the valuation decreases as follows:

4 mâsakas 5300 kârsâpanas
3½ mâsakas 3200 kârsâpanas
3 mâsakas 2000 kârsâpanas
2½ mâsakas 1300 kârsâpanas
2 mâsakas 800 kârsâpanas
1½ mâsakas 353 kârsâpanas
1 mâsakas 135 kârsâpanas
4 guñjas[385] 90 kârsâpanas
3 guñjas 50 kârsâpanas
2½ guñjas 35 kârsâpanas

Smaller pearls were grouped together in dharanas (one dharana = about 72 grains). If there were thirteen fine pearls in a dharana, they were valued at 325 rûpakas (about $100); the other values were as follows:

16 pearls in a dharana were worth 200 rûpakas
20 pearls in a dharana were worth 170 rûpakas
25 pearls in a dharana were worth 130 rûpakas
30 pearls in a dharana were worth 70 rûpakas
40 pearls in a dharana were worth 50 rûpakas
55–60 pearls in a dharana were worth 40 rûpakas
80 pearls in a dharana were worth 30 rûpakas
100 pearls in a dharana were worth 25 rûpakas
200 pearls in a dharana were worth 12 rûpakas
300 pearls in a dharana were worth 6 rûpakas
400 pearls in a dharana were worth 5 rûpakas
500 pearls in a dharana were worth 3 rûpakas

It would be extremely interesting if we could find at this early date (sixth century A.D.) an indication of the use of the system of computing the value of pearls by the square of their weight as expressed in some weight unit, and it is singular that the three valuations given for the weight in guñjas are graduated in accordance with this system. A pearl weighing 2½ guñjas and valued at 35 kârṣapâṇas would have a base value of 5.6 kârṣâpaṇas. Estimated at this ratio we would have the following figures:

3 guñjas 50.4 kârṣâpaṇas
4 guñjas 89.6 kârṣâpaṇas

Now, the values actually given are 50 and 90 kârṣâpaṇas, respectively, and these figures are easily obtained by rejecting the fraction that is less than one half and counting the fraction that is in excess of one half as a unit. After this, however, the progression becomes irregular. A pearl weighing 1 mâṣaka (5 guñjas) is valued at 135 kârṣâpaṇas, while the equivalent according to the system would be 140. However, it is possible that the writer may have changed this figure intentionally so as to add exactly one half to the preceding valuation (90 + 45 = 135). The succeeding values bear no relation to the system and appear to be entirely arbitrary. Still, it can scarcely be due to hazard that the first three figures are practically in exact accord with the system and the fourth in close approximation. As the change seems to come when the weight is expressed in mâṣakas instead of guñjas, we are tempted to think that the system may have been used for single pearls weighing less than twelve grains (1 mâṣaka = 11¼ grains), while the value of those over that weight was estimated in a different way.

In a much later Hindu treatise, by Buddhabhatta, after certain values have been given for pearls of the best quality, a pearl of this class is described as follows:

White, round, heavy, smooth, luminous, spotless, the pearl gifted
with these qualities is called qualified (_guṇavat_). If it be
yellow, it is worth half this price; if it be not round, a third; if
flat or triangular, a sixth.[386]

One of the earliest records we have of a system of prices for pearls is the treatise on precious stones written in the year 1265, by Ahmed ibn Yusuf al Teifashi, who was probably a native jeweler of Egypt. In his time pearls were sold in Bagdad in bunches of ten strings, each string comprising thirty-six pearls. If one of these strings weighed one sixth of a miskal (four carats or sixteen grains), the ten strings were valued at four dinars (about ten dollars). The values increased progressively as follows:[387]

Average weight 10 strings of 36 pearls, Value of each pearl weight of each string

Grains Carats Grains Dinars U. S. money

½ 4 16 4 $10.00

⅔ 6 24 5 12.50

1⅓ 12 48 6 15.00

2 18 72 10 25.00

3⅓ 30 120 15 37.50

4 36 144 20 50.00

4⅓ 42 168 25 62.50

5⅓ 48 192 35 87.50

6 54 216 40 100.00

7⅓ 66 264 70 175.00

8 72 288 80 200.00

9⅓ 84 336 110 275.00

10 90 360 150 375.00

10⅔ 96 384 200 500.00

12 108 432 400 1000.00

12⅔ 114 456 550 1375.00

13⅓ 120 480 650 1625.00

14 126 504 750 1875.00

14⅔ 132 528 800 2000.00

16 144 576 1000 2500.00

18⅔ 168 672 1500 3750.00

Al Teifashi then proceeds to describe a pearl of the first quality; it must be “perfectly round in all its parts, colorless and gifted with a fine water. When a pearl possesses these requisites and weighs one miskal [24 carats or 96 grains] it is worth 300 dinars [$750]. If, however, a match is found for this pearl and each one weighs one miskal and has the same form, the two pearls together cost 700 dinars [$1750].” This writer also mentions that in the shops of the Arab jewelers, the pearl which exceeded the weight of a drachma (12 carats or 48 grains) even by one grain, was called _dorra_, while the name _johar_ was used for that which did not reach the above weight.

In 1838, Feuchtwanger gave the price of a one-carat pearl as five dollars, and used this amount as the multiplier of the square of the weight; therefore, a four-carat pearl would cost four times four multiplied by five dollars, the value of the first carat; that is to say, a sixteen-grain (four-carat) pearl would have been worth eighty dollars in 1838, according to this computation.

THE SIAMESE PRINCE IN FULL REGALIA
]

In 1858, Barbot[388] gave the value of pearls under ordinary conditions, but very indefinitely, as follows:

Grains Carats Francs per carat U. S. currency

1 ¼ 4 $0.80
2 ½ 10 2.00
3 ¾ 25 5.00
4 1 50 10.00

Above four grains they sold by the piece, and below, by the ounce. Baroque pearls sold for 300 to 1000 francs per ounce. Seed-pearls, if quite round, were worth about 120 francs per ounce.

Emanuel[389] gave the following table of prices for the pearl, reduced to United States currency:

Grains 1865 1867

3 $2.88— $3.84 $4.32— $4.80
4 5.28— 6.72 6.72— 8.40
5 8.40— 10.80 9.60— 12.00
6 13.20— 15.60 16.80— 19.20
8 21.60— 26.40 24.00— 28.80
10 38.40— 43.20 48.00— 52.80
12 57.60— 72.00 67.20— 76.80
14 72.00— 86.40 86.40— 96.00
16 96.00—144.00 96.00—144.00
18 144.00—192.00 144.00—192.00
20 192.00—240.00 192.00—240.00
24 288.00—345.60 288.00—345.60
30 384.00—480.00 384.00—480.00

The following values appear in the “Encyclopedia Hispano-Americana,” Barcelona, 1894, Vol. XV, p. 180 (Louis Dieulafait):

Grains Value, 1865 Value, 1867
Pesetas U. S. currency Pesetas U. S. currency

3 17— 18 $3.40— $3.60 21— 23 $4.20— $4.60
4 25— 32 5.00— 6.40 32— 40 6.40— 8.00
5 41— 52 8.20— 10.40 46— 58 9.20— 11.60
6 64— 75 12.80— 15.00 81— 93 16.20— 18.60
8 104— 128 20.80— 25.60 116— 139 23.20— 27.80
10 202— 227 40.40— 45.40 252— 277 50.40— 55.40
12 302— 378 60.40— 75.60 352— 403 70.40— 80.60
14 378— 453 75.60— 90.60 455— 504 91.00—100.80
16 504— 756 100.80—151.20 504— 756 100.80—151.20
18 756—1005 151.20—201.00 756—1005 151.20—201.00
20 1005—1260 201.00—252.00 1005—1260 201.00—252.00
24 1512—1815 302.40—363.00 1512—1815 302.40—363.00
30 2117—2521 423.40—504.20 2117—2521 423.40—504.20

COMPARATIVE STATEMENT SHOWING THE VALUES OF PEARLS AT STATED TIMES

Weight 1609[390] 1672[391] 1675[392] 1751[393] 1774[394] 1791[395] Grains Thal. Kreutz. Livres £ s £ s £ s Lire

1 0 13 0 ½ 0 1 0 ⅓ 1½
2 0 52 2 0 2 0 4 0 2 6
3 1 47 5 0 6 0 9 0 7½ 13½
4 3 0 10 0 12 0 16 0 18 24
5 4 48 18 1 5 1 5 1 10 37½
6 6 52 28 2 10 1 16 2 5 54
7 9 13 38 4 10 2 9 3 1 73½
8 12 0 55 6 0 3 4 4 10 96
9 15 23 75 8 0 4 1 6 0 121½
10 18 52 100 10 0 5 0 8 5 150
11 22 48 130 12 0 6 1 9 15 242
12 27 175 14 0 7 4 288
13 31 48 16 0 8 9 13 15 338
14 36 52 270 18 0 9 16 392
15 42 13 21 10 11 5 21 0 450
16 48 380 25 0 12 16 512
17 54 13 30 0 14 9 27 10 578
18 60 52 500 35 0 16 4 648
19 67 48 37 10 18 1 722
20 75 650 40 0 20 0 37 10 800
22 90 52 50 0 24 4 52 10 1210
24 108 60 0 28 16 82 10 1440
26 126 52 33 16 99 0 1690
28 147 39 14 150 0 1960
32 192 51 4 225 0 2560
36 243 64 16 262 10 3240
40 300 80 0 300 0 4000
45 506 17 101 5 5062½
50 625 125 0 6250
60 900 180 0 9000
70 1225 245 0 12250
80 1600 320 0 16000
90 2025 405 0 20250
100 2500 500 0 25000

COMPARATIVE STATEMENT SHOWING THE VALUES OF PEARLS AT
STATED TIMES, REDUCED TO UNITED STATES CURRENCY

Weight Grains 1609 1672 1675 1751 1774 1791

1 $0.20 $0.12 $0.24 $0.09 $0.30
2 0.81 $0.80 0.48 0.96 0.50 1.20
3 1.82 1.90 1.44 2.16 1.87 2.70
4 3.24 3.80 2.88 3.84 4.50 4.80
5 5.06 6.84 6.00 6.00 7.50 7.50
6 7.28 10.64 12.00 8.64 11.25 10.80
7 10.92 14.44 21.60 11.76 15.25 14.70
8 12.96 20.90 28.80 15.36 22.50 19.20
9 16.40 28.50 38.40 19.44 30.00 24.30
10 20.25 38.00 48.00 24.00 41.25 30.00
11 24.50 49.40 57.60 29.04 48.75 48.40
12 29.16 66.50 67.20 34.56 57.60
13 34.22 76.80 40.56 68.75 67.60
14 39.69 102.60 86.40 47.04 78.40
15 45.56 103.20 54.00 105.00 90.00
16 51.84 144.40 120.00 61.44 102.40
17 58.52 144.00 60.36 137.50 115.60
18 65.61 190.00 168.00 77.76 129.60
19 73.10 180.00 86.64 144.40
20 81.00 247.00 192.00 96.00 187.50 160.00
22 98.01 240.00 116.16 262.50 242.00
24 116.64 288.00 138.24 412.50 288.00
26 136.89 162.24 495.00 338.00
28 158.76 188.16 750.00 392.00
32 207.36 245.76 1125.00 512.00
36 262.44 311.04 1312.50 648.00
40 324.00 384.00 1500.00 800.00
45 546.75 486.00 1012.50
50 675.00 600.00 1250.00
60 972.00 864.00 1800.00
70 1323.00 1176.00 2450.00
80 1728.00 1536.00 3200.00
90 2187.00 1944.00 4050.00
100 2700.00 2400.00 5000.00

Giving the pearl values in 1867, Emanuel[396] says: “It would be almost useless to give any value for drop pearls, as when of large size and fine quality they are of so rare occurrence as to command fancy prices; still, as a slight guide, it may be mentioned that perfect white drop pearls, of 80 to 100 grains, may be estimated at from £7 to £11 [$35–$55] per grain; those of 50 to 80 grains at from £4 to £7 [$20–$35] per grain, and those of 30 to 50 grains at from £3–£5 [$15–$25] per grain; smaller sizes bring from 20s. to 60s. [$5–$15] per grain.”

Emanuel also states that misshapen pieces called “baroque pearls” (_perles baroques_), are sold by the ounce, the price varying from £10 to £200 ($50–$1000) per ounce, depending on quality, color, and size.

PRICES IN NEW YORK CITY IN 1878

Grains Value per grain Total value

1 $1.00 $1.00
2 1.83 3.66
3 2.75 8.25
4 3.60 14.40
5 4.03 20.15
6 4.69 28.14
7 6.32 44.24
8 6.87 54.96
9 7.42 66.78
10 8.25 82.50
11 9.62 105.82
12 10.45 125.40
13 11.68 151.84
14 12.55 175.70
15 14.20 213.00
20 19.70 394.00
24 24.75 594.00

HALF-PEARLS
I QUALITY. PER HUNDRED

Diameter
Size No. Millimeters Inches 1873 1876 1878 1885 1908
4 $1.10 $0.85 $0.50 $1.55
5 1.20 .047 1.35 $0.70 1.00 .60 1.95
6 1.22 .048 1.80 .90 1.35 .70 2.90
7 1.24 .049 2.25 1.10 1.70 1.12 3.88
8 1.26 .049 2.70 1.35 2.00 1.80 5.27
9 1.28 .050 3.35 1.80 2.50 2.00 6.65
10 1.80 .071 4.50 2.25 3.40 3.00 9.15
11 1.83 .072 5.60 2.70 4.20 4.00 11.36
12 1.86 .073 8.00 3.35 5.90 5.00 13.86
13 1.90 .075 9.00 4.50 6.75 5.75 15.51
14 2.00 .078 11.00 5.60 8.40 6.75 17.50
15 2.10 .082 14.00 8.00 10.00 8.25 20.80
16 2.25 .088 17.00 9.00 12.50 10.50 25.00
17 2.40 .094 19.00 11.00 14.00 12.00 30.50
18 2.60 .102 23.00 14.00 17.00 14.50 37.40
19 2.75 .108 28.00 17.00 21.00 16.25 48.50
20 2.90 .114 33.00 19.00 24.00 18.25 61.00
22 3.05 .120 42.00 28.00 31.00 33.00
24 3.15 .124 53.00 38.00 39.00 48.00
26 3.30 .130 67.00 45.00 50.00 69.00
28 3.55 .140 101.00 56.00 75.00 98.00
30 3.90 .153 124.00 79.00 92.00 150.00

HALF PEARLS
II QUALITY. PER HUNDRED

Size No. 1873 1876 1878 1885 1908
4 $0.55 $0.45 $0.30 $0.84
5 .70 $0.35 .50 .35 1.22
6 .90 .45 .70 .50 1.87
7 1.10 .55 .85 .80 3.05
8 1.35 .70 1.00 1.05 4.43
9 1.80 .90 1.35 1.45 5.82
10 2.25 1.10 1.70 1.80 8.32
11 3.35 1.35 2.50 2.60 10.53
12 4.00 1.80 3.00 3.00 12.75
13 4.50 2.25 3.40 3.75 14.41
14 5.60 3.35 4.20 4.25 15.51
15 6.75 4.00 5.00 4.75 18.00
16 9.00 4.50 6.75 5.25 20.80
17 10.00 5.60 7.50 6.00 26.35
18 11.00 6.75 8.40 7.00 31.90
19 14.00 9.00 10.00 7.75 41.60
20 17.00 10.00 12.50 8.75 52.70
22 20.00 14.00 15.00
24 27.00 19.00 20.00
26 34.00 23.00 25.00
28 51.00 28.00 38.00
30 62.00 40.00 46.00

HALF PEARLS
III QUALITY. PER HUNDRED

Size No. 1876 1907 Size No. 1876 1908
4 $0.47 15 2.70 8.93
5 $0.25 .70 16 3.35 11.20
6 .35 1.11 17 4.00 13.90
7 .40 1.94 18 4.50 18.00
8 .45 2.77 19 5.60 22.20
9 .70 3.86 20 6.75 27.75
10 .80 4.99 22 9.00 40.00
11 .90 5.82 24 14.00 75.00
12 1.10 6.65 26 17.00 85.00
13 1.60 7.48 28 19.00 100.00
14 2.25 8.32 30 28.00 200.00

VALUE OF IRREGULAR PEARLS IN 1774[397]

Pearls to the Value in English money Equivalent in Average for
ounce U. S. currency each pearl

£ s.

500 3 0 $15.00 $0.03

300 6 0 30.00 .10

150 11 2 55.50 .37

100 18 0 90.00 .90

60 33 15 168.75 2.81

30 75 0 375.00 12.50

The following values for the smaller oriental pearls are given in the “Museum Brittanicum” of John and Andrew van Rymsdyck, 1778, p. 9.

No. to the ounce Rix dollars Equivalent in U. Average for each
S. currency pearl

200 70 $75.60 $0.378

300 50 54.00 .18

900 10 10.80 .012

2000 3 4.24 .00212

4000 2½ 2.70 .006755

8000 } 2 2.16 { .00027
10,000 } { .000216

Pio Naldi’s treatise of 1791 gives the following rule for estimating the value of small, round pearls, weighing less than one carat or four grains. As the carat value of four such pearls is given as five lire and 576 one-grain pearls were counted as one ounce, these two numbers were used to determine the value of an ounce of small pearls. The product of 576 multiplied by 5 is 2880, and this number was then divided by 2000, 1000, 500, or whatever might be the number of pearls in a given ounce. If there were 2000 pearls, the carat value would be 1.44 lire or $.29; if there were 1000, the carat would be worth 2.88 lire or $.57; if 500, 5.76 lire or $1.15, etc.

HALF-PEARLS: LOTS OF THREE DIFFERENT SIZES.

BROOCH OF HALF-PEARLS AND ONYX. UNITED STATES, 1860
]

The same author[398] gives tables expressing the values of pearls not perfectly spherical in form, which he designates as “perle dolce.” These pearls he considers to be worth half the price of good round pearls; that is to say, 2½ lire (about $.50) per carat for four weighing together one carat. Where there are as many as three thousand of these “perle dolce” in an ounce, the 2½ lire base is multiplied by 576, the number of grains given to the ounce; this makes the value of an ounce of one-grain pearls $288. This amount is then divided by 3000, and the quotient, $.096, represents the value of one carat of these small pearls. Multiplying this by 144 we obtain, as the value of an ounce of such pearls, $13.82. An ounce consisting of two thousand would be worth $20.73, while if there were but one hundred to the ounce it would be valued at $414.72, or $4.15 for each pearl and $.72 per grain of weight. In this latter case the pearls would average 5¾ grains. Another class of pearls denominated by this author as “scaramazzi,” pearls of an irregular form and with protuberances, are estimated in a similar way, but at exactly half of the above values. The baroque pearls were not considered to be worth even half as much as the “scaramazzi.”

Scotch pearls (fresh-water) are mentioned by De Boot (1609, p. 88 _sq._) among the other western pearls—Bohemian, etc. He remarks that they were valued much less than the oriental pearls, but if they were of especially pure color their value was greater, although they lacked the silvery hue characteristic of the eastern pearl. Fine pearls of this sort were valued on a carat base of one fourth of a thaler ($.27), so that a forty-grain pearl was worth $27, and one of eighty grains, $108. The author of the Bologna treatise, “Delle Gemme,” 1791, attributes the lack of luster in the Scotch pearls to the presence of a dark mass in the interior which interfered with the passage of light. He estimates Scotch pearls to be worth one half the value of oriental pearls of mediocre quality, provided the former are fairly good.

A Scotch writer of the seventeenth century is more enthusiastic in regard to these pearls; he mentions having paid one hundred rix dollars for an exceptionally fine one, but he does not specify its weight. This is the value given by De Boot for a pearl of this class weighing eighty grains, as we have just mentioned. The Scotch writer asserts that he could never sell a necklace of fine Scotch pearls in Scotland itself, as every one wanted oriental pearls; he continues: “At this very day I can show some of our own Scots Pearls as fine, more hard and transparent than any Oriental. It is true that the Oriental can be easier matched, because they are all of a yellow water, yet foreigners covet Scots Pearls.”

In Ceylon[399] and India, pearl-grading and valuing has received close attention, and an elaborate system has been evolved by the pearl merchants. This system has been in use for generations and possibly for centuries. Although apparently very complicated, it is in reality quite simple, if we only remember that the value of inferior pearls is determined by their weight, whereas the value of superior pearls is computed from the square of their weight.

The pearls are first grouped according to the size, of which ten grades are made. This is done by passing them successively through ten brass saucer-like sieves or baskets (_peddi_), each about three and a half inches in diameter and one inch deep. The holes in the bottom of each sieve are of uniform size, but they are graduated in size for the different baskets. The pearls are sifted in the basket with the largest holes, and those which will not pass through are of the first size. The pearls which pass through are then sifted in the second basket, and those retained are of the second size; and so on through the entire series of ten sieves or baskets. Those which pass through the tenth sieve are known as _masi-túl_, or powder pearls; they are of little value owing to their very small size, and are not subject to further classification. Of course, the attached pearls or very irregular baroques—the _oddumuttu_—are not subject to the sifting process, and are valued independently of this.

Sometimes in India, as well as in western countries, false measures are used, and an oriental pearl merchant may have one set of sieves for use in buying and another for selling. The rule for determining the proper size of the holes in the first sieve is that they may pass pearls weighing 20 to the _kalan̄chǔ_, whence this sieve is commonly known as the “20 _peddi_.” The second sieve is the “30 _peddi_,” since it passes pearls weighing 30 to the _kalan̄chǔ_. In the proper order the other sieves respectively pass pearls requiring 50, 80, 100, 200, 400, 600, 800, and 1000 to the _kalan̄chǔ_.

This use of sieves for grading the Ceylon pearls was mentioned by Cleandro Arnobio, a writer of the latter part of the sixteenth century, in his “Tesoro delle Gioie,” and he took his description from an older writer, Garzia dell’ Horto.

After the sifting, each of the ten graded lots of pearls are placed on pieces of cloth for classification as to quality, shape, and luster. This classification requires much skill and judgment on the part of the valuer. Not only will two persons commonly fail to class a large lot of pearls exactly alike, but one person is not likely to class the same lot twice in precisely the same manner.

A. B. Pearl nose rings. Baroda, India.

C. East Indian earring of strings of pearls and table diamonds.

Collection of Edmund Russell, Esq.

D. E. Grape pendants. Oriental pearls.
]

From long established custom, recognition is made of twelve classes into which the ten grades or sizes of pearls are divided with respect to shape and luster, the local names of these classes giving a fair indication of their respective characteristics. These names are:

1 _Ani_, “best”: perfect in sphericity and luster, the true orient
pearl.

2 _Anatári_, “follower”: failing slightly in sphericity and luster.

3 _Masanku_ or _Masaku_: badly colored pearls, usually gray,
symmetrical, and with luster.

4 _Kaiyéral_, “the clasp of a necklace”: a dark-colored treble pearl,
not quite round.

5 _Machchakai._

6 _Vadivu_, “beauty,” also “decreasing”: that which is strained or
sifted; found in the 100, 200, and 400 sieves. These small
pearls, regular in shape, and of good luster, are especially
favored in the East.

7 _Madanku_, “folded,” or “bent”: all pearls of _vadivu_ size that
are imperfect in form or color.

8 _Kǔrǔval_, “short”: deformed and double pearls; they may, however,
be of excellent luster. _Ani Kǔrǔval_: where two _áni_ are fused
together, but so formed that if separate they would be perfectly
spherical. _Písal Kǔrǔval_: where several pearls of good luster
and color are fused partially and irregularly together. _Pampara
Kǔrǔval_: a pearl grooved regularly, like a top.

9 _Kalippu_, “abundance,” or “rejected”: inferior to _Anatári_; a
good pearl, may be lens-shaped or elongated; usually flattened.

10 _Písal_, “torn”: a deformed pearl or cluster of small misshapen
pearls; of poor color and of little value.

11 _Kurál_: very misshapen and small.

12 _Túl_, “powder”: the seed-pearls, those retained by the 600, 800,
and 1000 sieves.

In addition to the above designations, the following are also used:

_Samadiam_: a pearl of a reddish hue; pear-shaped but of dull color.

_Nimelai_: a nose-pearl, perfect skinned, and pear- or egg-shaped.

_Sirippu_: a pearl grooved with irregular wrinkle-like furrows.

_Kodai_, “brown”: like a nut, with no nacreous luster; formed of
prismatic shell; may be large, is usually spherical, and includes
pearls of various colors. This name is also used for white pearls
with black or brown marks. _Van Kodai_: a _kodai_ pearl with one
side nacreous. _Karunk Kodai_: a black or blue-black slag-like
pearl.

_Masi-túl_, “ink-dust,” or “chalk-powder”: smaller than the 1000
sieve. Generally used for medicinal purposes, or burnt and eaten
with areca-nut and betel by the natives.

_Oddu_—or _Ottumuttu_, “shell-pearl”: an attached pearl or nacreous
excrescence on the outside of the shell.

Of the twelve classes named above, the first four are known as the _chevvǔ_, or superior classes; the next three as the _vadivu_, or beautiful classes; and the last five as the _kalan̄chǔ_, or inferior classes. The _chevvǔ_ pearls are found only in the first four sieves or baskets; and for this reason these are known as the _chevvǔ peddi_ or “chevvǔ baskets,” although they may also retain inferior pearls. A name used to indicate the class of pearls found in the first four sieves is _mel_ or _melmuttu_, “upper” or “superior pearl,” while _vadivu_ designates those retained by the next three and _túl_ those of the last three.

After the pearls have been graded according to size and classified according to quality, they are weighed. The unit of weight is the _manchádi_, the seed of _Abrus precatorius_, a small, red berry of practically uniform weight when ripe. H. W. Gillman of the Ceylon Civil Service reports the weight of the _man̄chádi_ to be 3.35 grains troy. Fractional parts of a unit are obtained by using a berry called _kundumani_, grains of rice, etc., whose weights have been determined beforehand. A brass weight—the _kalan̄chǔ_—is also employed; it equals 67 grains or 20 _man̄chádi_.

However, choice pearls—those of the superior classes—are not valued in this manner, but at so much per _chevvǔ_ of their weight, which is three fourths of the square of the weight in _man̄chádi_. Thus, to find the value of an _anatári_ pearl in the second sieve, if the weight be found to be three _man̄chádi_, three fourths of the square of three, or 6¾, is multiplied by the base value of the _anatári_ class.

The actual process of the calculation of value is as follows: owing to the small size of the pearls, many fractions enter into the computations; to preserve uniformity it is customary to increase all fractions so that each may have 320 as a denominator, this being a common multiple of those that ordinarily arise in _chevvǔ_ calculations. The weight in _man̄chádi_ of the pearls is increased to a fractional figure having 320 as a denominator. Three fourths of the square of the numerator of this fraction is divided by the number of pearls, and this quotient is divided twice consecutively by 320, giving the _chevvǔ_ of the weight. The market value then follows from the quoted price of the pearls per _chevvǔ_ at the time.

In actual practice, these computations are not made; but each merchant provides himself with sets of tables showing the calculations for different weights, analogous to the use of interest tables by bankers, or of tables of logarithms by surveyors. Some of the merchants commit these tables to memory, and at times may be heard reciting them quietly to themselves to refresh the memory.

If a pearl of a particular grade and class is of exceptional merit, the merchant adds somewhat to the money value computed by the above process. This applies especially to double pearls of the _kǔrǔval_ class, which sometimes consist of two fine bouton pearls suitable for setting, but not for stringing.

Pearls of one of the inferior or _kalan̄chǔ_ classes are valued by simple weight, at so much per _kalan̄chǔ_, the market price, of course, differing for pearls of the various classes. The weight having been ascertained, each in its class as before noted, the value is determined by multiplying that weight by the current market price per unit of such pearls, at so many rupees per _kalan̄chǔ_.

NECKLACE CONTAINING 126,000 SEED-PEARLS. LOUIS XVI PERIOD

Property of an American lady
]

The star pagoda is used in calculating the values. This small gold coin was current in south India in the early part of the last century. In the computations it is considered to be worth three and a half rupees, although its intrinsic value as a gold coin is about six rupees.

It is considered probable that the London syndicate,[400] which has lately leased the Ceylon pearl fisheries for a period of twenty years, will do away with the complicated calculations employed for so many generations, surviving all changes of administration, Portuguese, Dutch, and British. This is only one of the many instances showing the tendency of the British Government to abolish time-honored usages in India, without regard to the wishes of its population; and, unimportant as many of these changes may seem to us, they all serve to foster a spirit of discontent that may lead to serious trouble. This conduct on the part of Great Britain is all the stranger in view of the stubborn opposition of that country to the adoption of the scientific and logical metric system.

In Bombay, the weight of pearls in tanks is made the basis of their valuation; the tank equals 24 ratti or about 72 grains troy. The square of the number of tanks is multiplied by 330 and the quotient divided by the number of pearls; this gives the number of _chevvǔs_, or _chows_, as they are sometimes called, and the market price of the _chevvǔs_ for a given class of pearls shows their value. If, for instance, we have 56 pearls of a certain quality, weighing 5 tanks, and the _chevvǔs_ of these pearls is worth 14 rupees, the sum would be as follows:

5 × 5 × 330 × 14
———————————————— = 2062.5 rupees, or about $825.
56

In this case, as in the other system of weighing which we have mentioned, the _chevvǔs_ is only a nominal weight; but there is in India a real weight unit which bears this name.[401]

The high esteem in which the pearl was held by the Hindus is well illustrated by the following statement from an old treatise on gems: “A pearl weighing two kalan̄jas (about 180 grains) should not be worn even by kings. It is for the gods, it is without equal.”[402]

An interesting account of a great savant’s experience, in the early part of the sixteenth century, regarding the value of pearls, is given by Guillaume Budé[403] (1467–1540), the celebrated French Hellenist who lived during the reign of Francis I and who is regarded as the founder of the College de France. In his work entitled “De Asse,” he states that he once inquired of a gem dealer in Paris whether the latter could recall the weight of some remarkable pearl which had passed through his hands. The dealer replied that he had seen one weighing 30 carats (120 grains), whereupon another gem dealer, who was present, remarked that he had in his possession one of 40 carats (160 grains). This pearl was sold a few days later for 3000 gold crowns ($6750). On another occasion Budé was told that a pearl of exquisite beauty weighing 30 carats, had been sold to the Duchesse de Bourbon, daughter of Louis XI of France, for the sum of 4000 gold crowns ($9000).

In regard to the manner of computing the value of pearls Budé writes: “I think the ratio of these prices can be calculated. When I asked a gem dealer what was the value of a pearl of four carats [sixteen grains], according to the formula, he replied: ‘I have seen such a pearl sell for thirty gold crowns [$67.50].’ Whereupon I asked: ‘How much would you estimate one weighing eight carats [thirty-two grains]?’ ‘At least two hundred gold crowns [$450],’ he answered; and as I continued to ply him with questions, gradually increasing the weight, he responded in such a way that I could understand that the increase of the price bore not a numerical, but a proportional relation to the weight; so that the above mentioned eight-carat pearl, having double the weight of a four-carat pearl, was valued at seven times as much. The same was true of a pearl weighing twelve carats, twenty carats, and so on; the price augmenting by a greater and greater increment as the weight increased.”

In the “Coronae Gemma Noblissima” of Wilhelmus Eo (1621, pp. 32, 33), an instance is given of the rapid changes that are possible in the worth of a pearl. A large and beautiful pearl was brought to Nuremberg by a merchant who had paid 500 florins for it; he soon found a purchaser among the merchants there, who was willing to pay him 800 florins. This latter merchant in his turn disposed of his gem for 1000 florins, and shortly after it again changed hands twice, the first time at an advance of 200 florins and the second at an advance of 300 florins. All this happened within a few days. The writer tells us that the last purchaser, who paid 1500 florins for the pearl, took it with him to Venice “where the wealthy dames wear a great treasure of beautiful pearls as necklaces upon their bare skin, and he will not have lost anything on his pearl there.”

In 1884, Mr. Edwin Streeter was asked by a member of a London syndicate to proceed to the East, to value a large quantity of jewels, as a heavy sum of money was about to be advanced to a certain Power, to provide the sinews of war. On his way he was requested to stop at one of the principal towns in Germany to purchase some jewels which had been valued for probate but were not easy of sale in that market. The valuation paper was shown to him, and after examining the ornaments, he agreed to take them at the prices named. Among them was an old gold brooch of Russian manufacture, valued at £4; in the center of this brooch was what appeared to be a piece of hematite, but was in reality a fine, round, black pearl, weighing 77 grains. The color had faded from exposure to the sun. This pearl was brought to London, and the outer layer was taken off, when a perfect black pearl of 67 grains was uncovered. This was sold to a manufacturing jeweler in London for £400; but, having heard that in Paris there was a pearl that would exactly match it, Mr. Streeter bought it back again for £600, and then sold it at a large profit to one of the Paris crown jewelers, who, in his turn, sold the pair to a rich iron merchant for 50,000 francs (£2000 or $10,000). Since then the sum of 100,000 francs (£4000 or $20,000) has been refused for this pair of matchless black pearls. At present values they may be worth double this sum.

At different times the values assigned to the different forms and colors of pearls have varied. For instance, in the French Encyclopédie of 1774 (Vol. XII, p. 385), it is stated that pear-shaped pearls, although they might be equally perfect and of the same weight as round pearls, were valued much less than these. Even in the case of well-matched pairs, their price was a third less than that of round pearls.

As early as the sixteenth century it was not uncommon that jewelers who had in their possession a fine pear-shaped pearl would have a replica of it molded in lead, and then send the casts to the large cities of Europe and the East. If a mate was found for it, the respective owners soon came to terms, for such pearls command a much higher price together than they do separately.

An interesting story is told of no less a collector than the Duke of Brunswick, who was so generous to the city of Geneva. For many years every pear-shaped pearl from every land had been submitted to him for examination. He always claimed the privilege of examining it alone for a moment or two and in every instance he returned it. At last a new pear-shaped pearl of marvelous size and beauty was heard of in a distant country. It was sent to Germany, where the duke was visiting at that time, to a local dealer who acted as agent for the owner. The price demanded for it seemed excessive, but the duke took the pearl, stepped aside for a moment, and said, quick as a flash, “The pearl is mine.” The next day he showed it with a mate he had owned for many years and that was a most faultless match. Through all the years of his search he had never informed any one of his intention to match the pearl he already owned.

In 1879, at the time of the death of the father of Sultan Buderuddin of the Sulu Islands, a box of large and fine pearls was among the treasures he left behind him. Many of these disappeared, but some of them came into the hands of Sultan Buderuddin and his mother. The former sold those which he had inherited, in order to defray the expenses of a pilgrimage to Mecca, in 1882. His mother, who exerted a great influence over the conduct of affairs, retained a number of the pearls, and it was always difficult to induce her to part with any of them. When, as very rarely happened, she was persuaded to do so, she invariably got a higher price for them than they would have commanded in London, because she was never anxious to sell, and always said: “Why should I sell my pearls? If the Spaniards come to attack us, I can put them in a handkerchief and go into the hills; but if I had dollars I should need a number of men to carry them.” We do not yet know what became of the stolen pearls.

Many times has a dealer put nearly all that he possessed into a fine pearl or necklace, frequently without a reward; often gradually buying more and more, hoping for some great patron to relieve him. When the client appears, there is happiness, but when he does not, there is woe. This instance is well illustrated when Philip IV of Spain asked of the merchant Gogibus: “How have you ventured to put all your fortune into such a small object?” “Because I knew there was a king of Spain to buy it of me,” was the quick reply. And Philip rewarded the faith of the jeweler by purchasing the pearl.

Caire and Dufie[404] state:

We need have no fear that either the price or the use of pearls will
diminish when we consider the great demand for them both on account
of luxury and superstition. There is no Hindu who does not regard it
as a matter of religion that he should pierce at least one pearl on
the occasion of his marriage. This must be a new pearl which has
never been perforated. Whatever may be the mysterious signification,
this very ancient usage is, at least, very useful for the commerce
of pearls.

In 1898, one of the writers had a long talk with his late chief, who had, at that time, devoted sixty years of his life to the jewelry profession. In the course of the conversation the latter remarked: “It seems to me that pearls are too dear”; to which the writer rejoined: “Have pearls ever gone down in price during your entire connection with the jewelry profession?” The answer was: “No, they have always advanced.” Whereupon the writer said: “I can give you statistics for two hundred years preceding your earliest experience, which prove that pearls constantly advanced in value during that period.”

The following are the names given to the different kinds of pearls, according to their origin.

The term “oriental” designates those pearls that are found in the true pearl-oyster, and have a marine or salt-water origin, being found either in the ocean or one of its adjacent tributaries, and belonging to one of the numerous species of the Margaritiferæ.

The term “fresh-water” is given to those pearls that are found in the fresh-water brooks, rivulets, rivers, or fresh-water lakes, and not in salt water, and which belong to the Unionidæ.

The term “conch” is applied to that variety of pearl which is usually pink, or yellow, in color, and that is either found in the univalve shell, known as the common conch (_Strombus gigas_), or in the yellow shell (_Cassis madagascarensis_).

The word “clam pearl” is used to designate those pearls that are found in the common clam of the Atlantic coast, and are either black, dark purple, purple, or mixed with white, more especially if they are boiled.

“Placuna pearl” designates those pearls that are found in the Placuna, or window-glass shell, in the East. They have a micaceous luster, are rarely of much value, and are sold entirely in the Orient, almost exclusively for medicinal purposes.

“Oyster pearl” signifies those concretions that are found in the common edible oyster (Ostrea). They are generally black, purple, or with a mixture of black and white, or purple and white. They are devoid of nacreous luster and possess neither beauty nor value.

“Coque de perle” designates the globuse walls of the nautilus and possibly other shells that have a pearly nacre; they are almost hemispherical and are either round or long, having a pearly effect.

“Abalone”: a name applied to those pearls that are found in the univalve “ear-shell” or _awabi_, as it is called in Japan. They are generally green, blue-green, or fawn-yellow, and have an intense red, flame-like iridescence. They are rarely round, generally flat, or irregular, and are occasionally worth several hundreds of dollars each.

“Pinna pearls”: those pearls that are found in the Pinna, or wing-shells of the Mediterranean and adjacent seas. These possess no orient, but are more highly crystalline than any other pearls. They are almost translucent and have a peculiar red or yellow color, and are of little value except locally.

“Cocoanut pearl”: this name is given to those pearls that are found in the giant oyster or clam of the vicinity of Singapore; they are erroneously called cocoanut pearls because they have the appearance of the meat of the cocoanut. They are often of great size, but have no commercial value.

The following are special designations of the different varieties of pearls according to their forms and appearance:

Paragon: this term was formerly used to designate large and exceptionally perfect or beautiful pearls, usually weighing over one hundred grains.

Round: when the pearl is absolutely spherical, as if turned on a lathe, without any flattening or any indentations on the sides.

Button or Bouton: if the pearl is domed on top and has either a flat or slightly convex back.

Pear-shaped: when the pearl is formed like a pear, terminating in a point, and is either flat at the lower end or rounded.

Drop-shaped: when the pearl is elongated like a pear, but is larger at the lower end than a pear-shaped pearl.

Egg-shaped: when ovate in form, rounded more or less at each end, or formed like an egg.

Cone-shaped: applied to pearls that are elongated and rounded with one flat end, and have the form of a cone.

Top-shaped: a name given to those pearls that are broad, flattened at the top and rounded on the sides, terminating in a point, like a top.

Seed-pearls is a name given to pearls that are round or irregular, and weigh one fourth grain or even less. They are frequently so small that 18,000 are contained in a single ounce, and they are often sent from the East in bunches of about a dozen or so of strings.

Dust-pearls. When seed-pearls are very small they are known as “dust-pearls”; they are really as fine as dust and have very little value; still, their form is in many cases wonderfully perfect.

Petal pearls are those which are somewhat flat, frequently more pointed at one end than at the other, and have the appearance of a petal or leaf.

Hinge pearls are those pearls that are long, generally pointed at either or both ends, and are found near the hinge part of the shell. They are divided into two distinct forms, namely dog-tooth, and wing-shaped.

Wing pearls: those that are elongated or irregular, resembling a wing or part of a wing.

Dog-tooth: applied to pearls with pointed ears, elongated, and which are narrower than the wing pearls.

Slugs: a name used for the very irregular, distorted pearls, frequently made up of masses or groups of small pearls; usually without luster or form, and of little value except for medicinal purposes.

Nuggets: when the pearls are somewhat round, but are indented or slightly irregular.

Haystacks: when the pearls are either round or oval, with the top considerably elevated.

Turtlebacks: when the pearls are a trifle longer than they are wide, with a domed surface not much elevated. This form is quite prevalent among American pearls.

Strawberry pearls: those that are round or elongated and entirely covered with prickly points, somewhat resembling a strawberry or pickle. It is believed that these irregular marks are frequently produced by minute pearls.

“Blister” and “Chicot” are names applied to those pearls that are found embedded within a nacreous coating, often containing mud, water, or imperfect mother-of-pearl. After these “blisters,” as they are termed, are broken, and layer after layer has been removed from the contents, very fine pearls have frequently been found.

Peelers: a term applied to pearls having imperfect surfaces or skins that may have some inner layers which are perfect. Pearls having opaque bands or rings are rarely peeled with much success as this opaque layer frequently extends to some depth.

Cylindrical pearls: for pearls that have the form of a cylinder, being elongated and flattened at each end.

Hammer pearls: when pearls are long and somewhat rounded and assume the shape of a hammer or barrel. These are rounded or domed at the side and flattened at the ends.

Baroque (Wart pearls in German): when pearls are not of any perfect form such as round, pear, ovate, or any regular form, they are termed baroque, and this term covers a large class of varieties, such as all that follow (except seed- and half-pearls).

Double, triple, or twin pearls are those that are made up of two or more pearls united together in a single nacreous coating, showing, however, that they are still separate pearls.

Monster pearls: this name was formerly applied to very large, irregular, pearly masses which either resembled some animal or were adapted to form the head, trunk, or other part of an animal: these are also occasionally called “Paragons.”

Bird’s-eye: a name used for a pearl that has dull spots, giving it the appearance of a bird’s-eye.

“Ring-a-round” is a term applied to such pearls as are black, brown, pink, or white, and have a circle running around the pearl itself of some distinctive contrasting color, as white on black, pink on brown or black on white.

Embedded pearls are those that are partly or entirely surrounded by mother-of-pearl, having been enveloped and passed outward from the interior of the shell by the mollusk so that in time the pearl would have been lost on the outside of the shell. These embedded pearls are occasionally found in the manufacture of mother-of-pearl articles. When the mother-of-pearl is split, the pearl will fall out from between the layers.