Chapter XXX

MUTINY AT SANDY POINT.--TIERRA DEL FUEGO.--MISSIONARY
ENTERPRISES THERE.--CAPTAIN GARDINER.--CRUISE OF THE
"WATEREE."--SIDE-WHEEL DUCKS.--UP THE PACIFIC COAST.--THE
MEETING AT VALPARAISO.--THE END. 498

ILLUSTRATIONS.

At the Foot of the Andes _Frontispiece._
On the Sea Again 13
The Fog Clearing away 14
Sandy Hook Light-ship 15
A Stranded Ship 17
Weighing Baggage 18
The Shipworm and his Work 19
The Donkey's Descent 21
The Wharf at Aspinwall 22
Departure for Panama 23
Native Market, Aspinwall 25
Preparing for a Boat Excursion 26
Balboa taking Possession of the Pacific 28
The Isthmus of Darien 29
Rescue of the Survivors of Strain's Expedition 30
Strain's Arrival at the Coast 31
View on the Chagres River 32
Beach near Aspinwall 34
In the Rainy Season 35
A Hand-car Journey on the Panama Railway 36
Surveying under Difficulties 37
Native Village on the Isthmus 38
Native Idea of the Locomotive 39
The Espiritu Santo Flower 40
Gatun Station 41
A Tropical Harbor 42
Map of the Panama Railway 43
Crossing the Isthmus in 1849 45
A Bongo 46
Bridge Across the Chagres River at Barbacoas 47
Meeting a Train 48
The Humming-bird at Work 49
The Singing Hummer 49
The Iguana 49
A Centipede 50
A Scorpion 50
Exhibiting a Tarantula 51
Hills near the Railway 52
Map Showing how Ocean Routes are Shortened by the Panama Canal 53
Basaltic Cliff 55
Panama in the Distance 56
Station at Panama 57
Cathedral at Panama 58
Ramparts, with Old Cannon 59
Water-carrier and Native Woman 60
Gate of the Monks 61
Ruins of Church of San Domingo 62
A Remarkable Archway 63
Ruined Church 64
View from the Ramparts at Panama 65
On the Northeastern Beach 66
Watch-tower of San Jerome 68
A Hermit at Home 70
Making Chichi 71
Bridge at Old Panama 72
Slaughter of Priests by Buccaneers 74
Pirates' Rendezvous 75
Buccaneers Embarking on an Expedition 76
Morgan's Reception at Chagres 78
Morgan's Men Dining on Leather 79
Death of the Indian Chief 80
Moving Through the Forest 81
Capture of Old Panama by Morgan. (Fac-simile of an old print) 83
The Lucky Arrow 84
Bay of Panama, from the Southeastern Rampart 85
Coast Scene Below Panama 86
Cave Near Limon River 87
Vasco Nunez De Balboa 89
Balboa Carried on Shipboard 90
Balboa Makes his Appearance 91
Village on a River of Darien 93
Balboa and the Indian Princess 94
Quarrel for the Gold 95
Marching Through the Forest 97
Discovery of the Pacific 98
Cutting Timber for the Ships 99
Death of Balboa 100
Cathedral of Guayaquil 102
Street Scene and Ruins 103
In the Land of the Earthquake 104
The Central Part of Ecuador 106
Las Bodegas, Guayas River 107
A House in the Tropics 108
Cacao 109
Arriero and Traveller 110
In Holiday Costume 111
A Pack-train Under Way 112
A Mountain Cascade 115
Baron von Humboldt in 1802 116
Native Huts Near Guaranda 117
Among the Lava Beds 118
View of Cotopaxi 119
View of Quito and the Volcano of Pichincha 120
Inca Gateway and Fortress in the Andes 121
Crossing the Mountains 122
A Street in Quito 123
Palacio de Gobierno (Government House), Quito 124
Water-carriers 125
Priests and Monks 126
Laundresses of Quito 128
Balcony View of the Andes 130
The Crater of Pichincha 131
El Altar, Volcano, Ecuador 133
View of Ibarra, Ecuador 135
Napo Indian Porter 137
Descending the Napo 138
Mountain Pass in the Andes 139
Rapids in a Mountain Stream of South America 140
Water-carrier and Donkeys 141
Desert Scene 142
A Wolf Emigrating 143
Ships in a Fog 145
A Garden on the Rimac 147
A Claimant for the Sidewalk 148
View of Lima from the Steps of the Cathedral 149
Lima and the Surrounding Country 150
Wearing the "Saya y Manto" 151
A Lady of Lima 152
Interior Court, Lima 154
Bridge over the Rimac, Lima 155
One Use for Chickens 156
Ladies of Lima at Home 157
Peruvian Infantry and Cavalry 158
A Passage of Politeness 159
A Peruvian Cavalier 160
Horse-breakers at Work 161
Native Women of Lima 163
Ruins of Pachacamac 164
Head of Peruvian Statue 165
Terraced Space on a Hill-top 165
Peruvian Mummies 166
Sepulchral Tower 167
Golden Vase Found in a Tomb 167
Silver Vase 168
Peruvian Idol 168
Peruvian Copper Knives 169
Ruins on Titicaca Island 169
Part of Temple of the Sun, Cuzco 170
Outer Wall of Fortress of Cuzco 171
Stones in the Wall of Cuzco 171
Part of Wall of Fortress 172
Peruvian Vases 173
Ornaments of Peruvian Walls 174
Ancient Palace at Huanco 175
Doorway Cut Through a Single Stone 175
Central Figure over Doorway 176
Deep Cutting on a Railway 177
Among the Foot-hills 178
Guano Islands 181
Sea-birds at Home 182
Scene on a Coolie Ship 183
On the Edge of the Desert 185
Indians of Arequipa 186
Arequipa, and the Volcano of Misti 187
The Old Way of Travel 189
View of Lake Titicaca 190
The Nevada de Sorata, Crown of the Andes 191
View on Lake Titicaca 193
Peruvian Heads, Ancient and Modern 194
Cathedral of Puno 195
Quichua Woman (from a photograph) 196
Coca Plant 197
Llama 199
Ancient Gateway near Puno 200
The Vicuna 201
Indians and Llama Among the Ruins 202
Cattle Feeding on Rushes, Lake Titicaca 203
Tortora Bridge Over the Outlet of Lake Titicaca 204
Head-dress of Aymara Women 205
Aymara Men, Puno 205
Aymara Woman, Puno 206
A Ride on a Balsa, Lake Titicaca 207
Closed Doorway, Titicaca Island 207
Palace of the Inca 208
Bath of the Inca 209
Room in the Inca's Palace 210
The Sacred Rock of Manco Capac 210
Ground-plan of "Palace of the Inca," Titicaca Island 211
Bridge and Custom-house at the Frontier 212
Ruins on Coati Island 213
Indians Celebrating the Chuno, or Potato Festival 214
Head-dress of Indian Female Dancers 215
Plan of Part of Ruins of Tiahuanaco 216
The American Stonehenge 216
Front View of Monolithic Doorway 217
Symbolical Slab 218
Terrace Walls and Scattered Blocks of Stone 219
Remains of Palace at Cuzco 220
Inca Doorway, Cuzco 221
Old Bridge at Cuzco 221
Court of Convent, with Ancient Fountain 222
Church and Convent of Santo Domingo, Cuzco 223
Terra-cotta Figures, Cuzco 224
Ancient Stone Sculpture, Cuzco 224
Section of Walls of the Fortress 225
Salient Angle of Fortress 225
Road Leading to Fortified Hill 226
Ancient Dwelling-house 227
Specimen of Cyclopean Wall 227
Ancient Sun Circle, Sillustani, Peru 228
Tanatero (ore-carrier) 229
Section of a Silver Mine 230
A Primitive Mill 231
Arastra, with Mule-power 232
Breaking Ore 233
Indians Extracting Silver from Ore 234
Galleries in a Silver Mine 235
Caving in 236
Wild Indian of Bolivia 237
Limited Accommodations 239
Aymara Skull 240
Turf House near Lake Titicaca 241
Chulpas, or Burial-towers 241
Ancient Sepulchre 242
Manuel 243
Loading the Mules 244
The Start 245
A Mountain Trail 247
Hacienda among the Mountains 248
Travelling by Silla 250
Dead Whale on Shore 251
Shot at a Condor 252
Puma, Cougar, or American Lion 252
Capybara 253
Jaguar 254
Game for the Jaguar 255
Steamer Leaving Para 256
Head of Navigation 257
A Chance Acquaintance 258
A Landing-place 260
Humming-birds of the Andes 261
Humming-bird's Nest 262
Pair of Toucans and their Nest 263
Tanagers and Nest 264
Toucan 265
Parrots 265
An Amazonian Dwelling 266
Near the Village 267
Agave, or Sisal Hemp 269
Hunting with the Blow-gun 271
A Giant of the Forest 272
Turtle-shooting in South America 273
Turtle-turning 274
South American River Scene 276
South American Monkey with Prehensile Tail 277
Howling Monkey 278
A Monkey Robbing Birds'-nests 279
Hunting the Monkey 280
Amazonian Mosquitoes at Home 282
An Indian of Northern Bolivia 283
Breakfast Scene on the River Bank 285
Plaza and Church at Exaltacion 287
Mojos Indians Celebrating Mass 288
The Cherimbita 289
A Mojos Indian 289
The Agouti 290
Hunting the Tapir 292
Water-snakes at Home 294
Rattlesnake Disturbed by a Wildcat 295
Visiting the Caripunas 296
A Caripuna Indian 298
A Walk in the Forest 299
Branch of the India-rubber Tree 300
India-rubber Making on the Madeira 301
Leaves, Fruit, and Flowers of the Cow-tree 303
Milking the Cow-tree 304
Dragging a Boat Around Teotonio 307
Inscriptions on the Rocks at Ribeirao 308
Cuttings on Stones near the Rapids 308
Buried in the Tropical Forest 310
Banana in Blossom 311
Rubber Tree and Parasites 312
Station of a Rubber Collector 313
A River Town 315
Pira-rucu, a Fish of the Amazon 317
Deposits in the Amazon Valley 318
Wasp-nest, Showing Interior Construction 319
Leaves, Nut, and Flowers of Sapucaya, an Amazon Tree 320
Ferns, Trees, and Creepers 321
Natives on the Middle Amazon 323
In an Igaripe 325
Fruit Pedlers 326
Arrival at Manaos 327
Giant Fig-tree 328
Natives of the Banks of the Ucayali 329
A Brazilian Landing-place 331
The Ant-eater Asleep 334
The Mouths of the Amazon 335
Para, from the River 336
Environs of Para 337
A Tropical Plant 338
A Dealer in Monkeys 339
Street in Para with Silk-cotton Trees 340
Nazareth Square, Para 341
A Para Belle 342
The Market at Para 343
Theatre of Our Lady of the Peace 344
The Government Palace at Para 345
Sourre and Salvaterra 347
A Snake Merchant 348
Going Ashore in a Jaganda 349
Street Scene in Pernambuco 350
Pernambuco 351
Pack Horses Laden with Sugar 352
Ox-cart 353
View of Bahia 354
Diamond-washing in Brazil 355
"Star of the South" 356
Porters Asleep 357
Brazilian Humming-birds 358
Market Scene, Bahia 359
Porters and Cask 359
Sedan Chair 360
Frame of Sedan 360
Entrance to the Harbor of Rio 361
View of Rio Janeiro from the Sea 362
Front View of the City 364
Coffee-carriers 365
Coal-carriers 366
Modern Innovations 366
Pedlers of Dry-goods 367
Poultry Dealer 367
Fruit Vender 368
View in the Bay of Rio de Janeiro 369
An Imperial Palace 370
Statue of Pedro I. 371
Scene in a Brazilian Suburb 372
Votive Offerings in a Church at Rio 374
View in the Bay 374
Alms-box 375
Religious Festival in Front of a Church 376
Monk in a Procession 377
The Aqueduct 378
A Brazilian Forest, with Characteristic Mammalia 379
Coffin Closed 380
Coffin Opened 380
Cemetry of the Paula Church 381
View of Rio from Boa Vista 382
Hotel at Tijuca, near Rio 383
Cascade at Tijuca 385
The Armadillo 386
Road over the Serra, near Petropolis 387
The Palace at Petropolis 388
Religious Procession in Brazil 389
Negro Hut near the Railway 391
Entrance to a Coffee Plantation 392
Victims of the Famine 394
Dying for Lack of Food 395
A Tropical Railway Station 396
Mandioca Plant 397
Plantation Negro 398
Punishment 399
In the Fields 400
Slaves with Collars 400
Slave with Mask 401
Mask 401
Shackles 401
Household Servant 402
Slaves Gathering Sugar-cane 403
At Home with the Sugar-cane 404
Intrudo Sports Thirty Years Ago 406
Intrudo Balls and Bottles 407
Wooden Cannon 407
The Condor and the Bull 408
Embalmed Head 408
Ancient Musical Instruments 409
Ancient Comb 409
Brazilian Basin 409
Montevideo from the Sea 410
View in the Capital of Uruguay 411
Ox-cart of Buenos Ayres 412
Soldiers of the Argentine Republic 413
A Guacho 414
A Guacho on Horseback 415
Post-station on the Pampas 417
A Steamer on the River Plate 418
A Refuge from Mosquitoes 419
Branding Cattle on an Estancia 421
Use of the Lasso and Bolas 422
Costumes of Paraguay 424
Indians of the "Gran Chaco" 425
Battle with Chaco Indians 427
Indians of the Lenqua, River Plate 428
Indians Shooting Fishes 429
A River Port during the War 430
Headquarters of General Lopez 431
Paraguayan Mother and Daughters 432
A Landed Proprietor 433
Cups and Tubes for Mate 434
Paraguayan Cart 435
Carlo Antonio Lopez, former President of Paraguay 436
Olive Branch from the Banks of the Parana 437
Map of Chili, Argentine Confederation, and Uruguay 439
In the Strait of Magellan 440
Arrival of Travellers at a Guacho Village 442
A Dance at San Luis de la Punta 444
The Police-office at Mendoza 446
The Birlocha 448
The Pampa Coach 449
Ox-carts near Mendoza 450
Coming to Town 451
Exercising the Mules 452
A Start under Disadvantages 454
Pass of Uspallata 455
Near the Base of the Andes 457
A Dangerous Road in the Mountains 459
Peons at Rest 460
A Mountain Canon 462
Snow-slide on the Trail 463
Hanging Bridge in the Andes 465
Deep Chasm in the Mountains 466
A Victim of the Storm 467
A Chilian Ox-cart 468
The Condor 469
Travelling in the Snow 470
A Natural Highway 471
Cutting Steps Along the Mountain 472
Bridge of the Apurimac 474
Looking Across the Bridge 475
By the Roadside 476
Court-yard of the Posada 477
A Pedler of Forage 478
The Alameda 480
A Street Scene 481
Customs Guard-house, Valparaiso 483
Spanish-American Costumes 484
Seal of the Falkland Islands 486
Patagonia and Tierra del Fuego 487
The Penguin 488
The Home of the Sea-birds 489
The Cormorant 489
A Steamer Entering the Strait of Magellan 490
Chilian Settlement at Sandy Point 491
Patagonian Dress 492
A Patagonian Belle 493
The Guanaco 494
Seeking Safety 495
The Ostrich and his Hunters 496
Skeleton of the Ostrich 497
Captain Smiley 498
Mountains and Glaciers in Magellan's Strait 499
Jemmy Button's Sound 500
Fuegians Visiting a War Steamer 501
The "Allen Gardiner" at Banner Cove 502
Starvation Beach 503
A Fuegian and his Food 504
A Fuegian Feast 505
Ruins at Port Famine 506
Borgia Bay 507
Inscriptions at Borgia Bay 507
"H" Cliff, Wateree Bay 508
The Yankee Wood-dealer 509
Near the Coast of Patagonia 509
Map of South America, with Route of the Boy Travellers _Front Cover._
Physical Map of South America _Back Cover._

THE BOY TRAVELLERS IN SOUTH AMERICA.