Chapter II: Preface

In preparing this volume for the press, the author has followed very closely the plan adopted for "The Boy Travellers in the Far East," and also for his more recent work, "The Boy Travellers in South America." Accompanied by their versatile and accomplished mentor, Dr. Bronson, our young friends, Frank Bassett and Fred Bronson, journeyed from Vienna to Warsaw and St. Petersburg, and after an interesting sojourn in the latter city, proceeded to Moscow, the ancient capital of the Czars. From Moscow they went to Nijni Novgorod, to attend the great fair for which that city is famous, and thence descended the Volga to the Caspian Sea. On their way down the great river they visited the principal towns and cities along its banks, saw many strange people, and listened to numerous tales and legends concerning the races which make up the population of the great Muscovite Empire.

They visited the recently developed petroleum fields of the Caspian, and, after crossing that inland sea, made a journey in Central Asia to study certain phases of the "Eastern Question," and learn something about the difficulties that have arisen between England and Russia. Afterwards they travelled in the Caucasus, visited the Crimea, and bade farewell to the Empire as they steamed away from Odessa. Concerning the parts of Russia that they were unable to visit they gathered much information, and altogether their notes, letters, and memoranda would make a portly volume.

The author has been three times in the Russian Empire, and much of the country described by "The Boy Travellers" was seen and traversed by him. In his first journey he entered the Czar's dominions at Petropavlovsk in Kamtchatka, ascended the Amoor River through its entire navigable length, traversed Siberia from the Pacific Ocean to the Ural Mountains, and continuing thence to Kazan, Moscow, St. Petersburg, and Warsaw, left the protection of the Russian flag eleven thousand miles from where he first went beneath it. His second visit included the Crimea and other regions bordering the Black Sea, and his third was confined to Finland and other Baltic provinces.

In addition to his personal observations in Russia, the author has drawn upon the works of others. Many books of Russian travel and history have been examined; some of them have been mentioned in the text of the narrative, but it has not been practicable to refer to all. Indebtedness is hereby acknowledged to the following books: "Free Russia," by Hepworth Dixon; "Turkestan" and "Life of Peter the Great," by Hon. Eugene Schuyler; "A Ride to Khiva," by Col. Fred Burnaby; "Campaigning on the Oxus, and the Fall of Khiva," by J. A. Macgahan; "Life of Peter the Great" and "Life of Genghis Khan," by Jacob Abbott; "The Siberian Overland Route," by Alexander Michie; "Tent-life in Siberia," by George Kennan; "Reindeer, Dogs, and Snow-shoes," by Richard J. Bush; "The Invasion of the Crimea," by A. W. Kinglake; "Fred Markham in Russia," by W. H. G. Kingston; "The Knout and the Russians," by G. De Lagny; "The Russians at the Gates of Herat" and "The Region of the Eternal Fire," by Charles Marvin; "Travels in the Regions of the Upper and Lower Amoor" and "Oriental and Western Siberia," by Thomas W. Atkinson; and "The Russians at Home," by Sutherland Edwards. The author has also drawn upon several articles in _Harper's Magazine_, including his own series describing his journey through Siberia.

The publishers have kindly permitted the use of illustrations from their previous publications on the Russian Empire, in addition to those specially prepared for this book. As a result of their courtesy, the author has been able to present a "copiously illustrated" book, which is always a delight to the youthful eye.

T.W.K.

CONTENTS

CHAPTER I. PAGE

DEPARTURE FROM VIENNA.--FRANK'S LETTER.--A FAREWELL
PROMENADE.--FROM VIENNA TO CRACOW.--THE GREAT SALT-MINE OF
WIELICZKA, AND WHAT WAS SEEN THERE.--CHURCHES AND PALACES
UNDERGROUND.--VOYAGE ON A SUBTERRANEAN LAKE. 15

CHAPTER II.

LEAVING CRACOW.--THE RUSSIAN FRONTIER.--THE POLICE AND THE
CUSTOM-HOUSE.--RUSSIAN CENSORSHIP OF BOOKS AND
PAPERS.--CATCHING A SMUGGLER.--FROM THE FRONTIER TO
WARSAW.--SIGHTS AND INCIDENTS IN THE CAPITAL OF POLAND.--FROM
WARSAW TO ST. PETERSBURG. 40

CHAPTER III.

IN THE STREETS OF ST. PETERSBURG.--ISVOSHCHIKS AND
DROSKIES.--COUNTING IN RUSSIAN.--PASSPORTS AND THEIR
USES.--ON THE NEVSKI PROSPECT.--VISITING THE CHURCH OF
KAZAN.--THE RUSSO-GREEK RELIGION.--UNFAVORABLE POSITION OF ST.
PETERSBURG.--DANGER OF DESTRUCTION.--GREAT INUNDATION OF
1824.--STATUE OF PETER THE GREAT.--ADMIRALTY SQUARE.--THE
SAILORS AND THE STATUE. 58

CHAPTER IV.

DINNER IN A RUSSIAN RESTAURANT.--CABBAGE SOUP, FISH PIES, AND
OTHER ODD DISHES.--THE "SAMOVAR" AND ITS USES.--RUSSIAN
TEA-DRINKERS.--"JOLTAI CHAI."--ALEXANDER'S COLUMN.--FORTRESS OF
STS. PETER AND PAUL.--IMPERIAL ASSASSINATIONS.--SKETCHES OF THE
PEOPLE.--RUSSIAN POLICE AND THEIR WAYS. 76

CHAPTER V.

NUMBER AND CHARACTER OF THE RUSSIAN PEOPLE.--PAN-SLAVIC UNION.--ST.
ISAAC'S CHURCH: ITS HISTORY AND DESCRIPTION.--THE WINTER PALACE AND
THE HERMITAGE.--SIGHTS IN THE PALACE.--CATHERINE'S RULES FOR HER
RECEPTIONS.--JOHN PAUL JONES IN RUSSIA.--THE CROWN JEWELS AND THE
ORLOFF DIAMOND.--ANECDOTES OF THE EMPEROR NICHOLAS.--RELICS OF PETER
THE GREAT.--FROM PALACE TO PRISON.--TOMBS OF RUSSIA'S EMPERORS.--A
MONUMENT AND AN ANECDOTE. 93

CHAPTER VI.

THE GOSTINNA DVOR: ITS EXTENT AND CHARACTER.--PECULIARITY OF
RUSSIAN SHOPPING.--CURIOUS CUSTOMS.--OLD-CLOTHES
MARKET.--HAY-MARKET.--PIGEONS IN RUSSIAN CITIES.--FROZEN
ANIMALS.--CHURCH AND MONASTERY OF ST. ALEXANDER NEVSKI.--A
PERSIAN TRAIN.--A COFFIN OF SOLID SILVER.--THE SUMMER
GARDEN.--SPEAKING TO THE EMPEROR.--KRILOFF AND HIS
FABLES.--VISIT TO A RUSSIAN THEATRE.--"A LIFE FOR THE CZAR."--A
RUSSIAN COMEDY. 110

CHAPTER VII.

NEWSPAPERS IN RUSSIA: THEIR NUMBER, CHARACTER, AND
INFLUENCE.--DIFFICULTIES OF EDITORIAL LIFE.--THE CENSORSHIP.--AN
EXCURSION TO PETERHOF, ORANIENBAUM, AND CRONSTADT.--SIGHTS IN
THE SUMMER PALACE.--CRONSTADT AND THE NAVAL STATION.--THE
RUSSIAN NAVY.--THE RUSSIAN ARMY: ITS COMPOSITION AND
NUMBERS.--THE COSSACKS.--ANECDOTES OF RUSSIAN MILITARY LIFE. 130

CHAPTER VIII.

VISITING THE UNIVERSITY OF ST. PETERSBURG.--EDUCATION IN
RUSSIA.--PRIMARY AND OTHER SCHOOLS.--THE SYSTEM OF
INSTRUCTION.--RECENT PROGRESS IN EDUCATIONAL MATTERS.--UNIVERSITIES
IN THE EMPIRE: THEIR NUMBER AND LOCATION.--RELIGIOUS
LIBERTY.--TREATMENT OF THE JEWS.--THE ISLANDS OF THE NEVA, AND
WHAT WAS SEEN THERE.--IN A "TRAKTIR."--BRIBERY AMONG RUSSIAN
OFFICIALS. 150

CHAPTER IX.

STUDIES OF ST. PETERSBURG.--MUJIKS.--"THE IMPERIAL NOSEGAY."--A
SHORT HISTORY OF RUSSIAN SERFDOM: ITS ORIGIN, GROWTH, AND
ABUSES.--EMANCIPATION OF THE SERFS.--PRESENT CONDITION OF THE
PEASANT CLASS.--SEEING THE EMPEROR.--HOW THE CZAR APPEARS IN
PUBLIC.--PUBLIC AND SECRET POLICE: THEIR EXTRAORDINARY
POWERS.--ANECDOTES OF POLICE SEVERITY.--RUSSIAN COURTS OF LAW. 172

CHAPTER X.

WINTER IN RUSSIA.--FASHIONABLE AND OTHER FURS.--SLEIGHS AND
SLEDGES.--NO SLEIGH-BELLS IN RUSSIAN CITIES.--OFFICIAL OPENING
OF THE NEVA.--RUSSIAN ICE-HILLS.--"BUTTER-WEEK."--KISSING AT
EASTER.--AN ACTIVE KISSING-TIME.--RUSSIAN STOVES AND
BATHS.--EFFECTS OF SEVERE COLD.--THE STORY OF THE FROZEN
NOSE.--HOW MEN ARE FROZEN TO DEATH. 193

CHAPTER XI.

LEAVING ST. PETERSBURG.--NOVGOROD THE GREAT: ITS HISTORY AND
TRADITIONS.--RURIK AND HIS SUCCESSORS.--BARBARITIES OF JOHN THE
TERRIBLE.--EARLY HISTORY OF RUSSIA.--AN IMPERIAL
BEAR-HUNT.--ORIGIN OF THE HOUSE OF ROMANOFF.--"A LIFE FOR THE
CZAR."--RAILWAYS IN RUSSIA FROM NOVGOROD TO MOSCOW. 211

CHAPTER XII

FIRST IMPRESSIONS OF MOSCOW.--UNDULATIONS OF THE
GROUND.--IRREGULARITY OF THE BUILDINGS, AND THE CAUSE
THEREOF.--NAPOLEON'S CAMPAIGN IN RUSSIA.--DISASTER AND
RETREAT.--THE BURNING OF MOSCOW.--THE KREMLIN: ITS CHURCHES,
TREASURES, AND HISTORICAL ASSOCIATIONS.--ANECDOTES OF RUSSIAN
LIFE.--THE CHURCH OF ST. BASIL. 230

CHAPTER XIII.

THE GREAT THEATRE OF MOSCOW.--OPERATIC PERFORMANCES.--THE KITAI
GOROD AND GOSTINNA DVOR.--ROMANOFF HOUSE AND THE ROMANOFF
FAMILY.--SKETCH OF THE RULERS OF RUSSIA.--ANECDOTES OF PETER THE
GREAT AND OTHERS.--CHURCH OF THE SAVIOUR.--MOSQUES AND
PAGODAS.--THE MUSEUM.--RIDING-SCHOOL.--SUHAREFF
TOWER.--TRAKTIRS.--OLD BELIEVERS.--THE SPARROW HILLS AND THE
SIMONOFF MONASTERY. 252

CHAPTER XIV.

A VISIT TO THE TROITSKA MONASTERY, AND WHAT WAS SEEN
THERE.--CURIOUS LEGENDS.--MONKS AT DINNER.--EUROPEAN
FAIRS.--THE GREAT FAIR AT NIJNI NOVGOROD.--SIGHTS AND
SCENES.--MININ'S TOMB AND TOWER.--DOWN THE VOLGA BY
STEAMBOAT.--STEAM NAVIGATION ON THE GREAT RIVER.--KAZAN, AND
WHAT WAS SEEN THERE.--THE ROUTE TO SIBERIA. 271

CHAPTER XV.

AVATCHA BAY, IN KAMTCHATKA.--ATTACK UPON PETROPAVLOVSK BY THE
ALLIED FLEET.--DOGS AND DOG-DRIVING.--RAPID TRAVELLING WITH A
DOG-TEAM.--POPULATION AND RESOURCES OF KAMTCHATKA.--REINDEER
AND THEIR USES.--THE AMOOR RIVER.--NATIVE TRIBES AND CURIOUS
CUSTOMS.--TIGERS IN SIBERIA.--NAVIGATION OF THE AMOOR.--OVERLAND
TRAVELLING IN SIBERIA.--RIDING IN A TARANTASSE.--A ROUGH
ROAD.--AN AMUSING MISTAKE.--FROM STRATENSK TO
NERTCHINSK.--GOLD-MINING IN SIBERIA. 289

CHAPTER XVI.

THE EXILES OF SIBERIA.--THE DECEMBRISTS AND THEIR
EXPERIENCE.--SOCIAL POSITION OF EXILES.--DIFFERENT CLASSES OF
EXILES AND THEIR SENTENCES.--CRIMINALS AND POLITICALS.--DEGREES
OF PUNISHMENT.--PERPETUAL COLONISTS.--HOW EXILES
TRAVEL.--LODGING-HOUSES AND PRISONS.--CONVOYS.--THRILLING STORY
OF AN ESCAPE FROM SIBERIA.--SECRET ROADS.--HOW PEASANTS TREAT
THE EXILES.--PRISONERS IN CHAINS. 313

CHAPTER XVII.

CHARACTER OF THE SIBERIAN POPULATION.--ABSENCE OF SERFDOM, AND
ITS EFFECT.--A RUSSIAN FÊTE.--AMUSEMENTS OF THE
PEASANTRY.--COURTSHIP AND MARRIAGE.--CURIOUS CUSTOMS.--WHIPPING
A WIFE.--OVERLAND THROUGH SIBERIA AGAIN.--CHETAH AND THE
BOURIATS.--IN A BOURIAT VILLAGE.--VERCKNE UDINSK.--SIBERIAN
ROBBERS.--TEA-TRAINS AND TEA-TRADE.--KIACHTA.--LODGED BY THE
POLICE.--TRADE BETWEEN RUSSIA AND CHINA. 334

CHAPTER XVIII.

GENERAL ASPECTS OF MAI-MAI-CHIN.--DINNER WITH A CHINESE
GOVERNOR.--A THEATRICAL PERFORMANCE.--LAKE BAIKAL: ITS
REMARKABLE FEATURES.--A WONDERFUL RIDE.--IRKUTSK: ITS
POPULATION, SIZE, AND PECULIARITIES.--SOCIAL
GAYETIES.--PREPARATIONS FOR A LONG SLEIGH-RIDE.--LIST OF
GARMENTS.--VARIETIES OF SLEIGHS.--FAREWELL TO
IRKUTSK.--SLEIGHING INCIDENTS.--FOOD ON THE ROAD.--SIBERIAN
MAILS.--ADVANTAGES OF WINTER TRAVELLING.--SLEIGHING ON BARE
GROUND.--A SNOWLESS REGION.--KRASNOYARSK. 354

CHAPTER XIX.

POSITION AND CHARACTER OF KRASNOYARSK.--A LESSON IN RUSSIAN
PRONUNCIATION.--MARKET SCENE.--SIBERIAN TREES.--THE
"OUKHABA."--A NEW SENSATION.--ROAD-FEVER AND ITS CAUSE.--AN
EXCITING ADVENTURE WITH WOLVES.--HOW WOLVES ARE HUNTED.--FROM
KRASNOYARSK TO TOMSK.--STEAM NAVIGATION IN
SIBERIA.--BARNAOOL.--MINES OF THE ALTAI.--TIGERS AND TIGER
STORIES.--THE "BOURAN."--ACROSS THE BARABA STEPPE.--TUMEN AND
EKATERINEBURG.--FROM EUROPE TO ASIA.--PERM, KAZAN, AND NIJNI
NOVGOROD.--END OF THE SLEIGH-RIDE. 377

CHAPTER XX.

DOWN THE VOLGA AGAIN.--RUSSIAN RECEPTION CEREMONY.--SIMBIRSK,
SAMARA, AND SARATOV.--GERMAN SETTLERS ON THE VOLGA.--DON
COSSACKS.--ASTRACHAN.--CURIOUS POPULATION.--VOYAGE ON THE CASPIAN
SEA.--THE CASPIAN PETROLEUM REGION.--TANK-STEAMERS.--INTERESTING
FACTS AND FIGURES OF THE NEW PETROLIA.--PRESENT PRODUCT OF THE
BAKU OIL-FIELDS.--EXCURSION TO BALAKHANI, AND VISIT TO THE
OIL-WELLS.--TEMPLES OF THE FIRE-WORSHIPPERS.--ANTIQUITY OF THE
CASPIAN PETROLEUM REGION.--MARCO POLO AND OTHER AUTHORITIES. 403

CHAPTER XXI.

A GLANCE AT CENTRAL ASIA.--RUSSIAN CONQUEST IN TURKESTAN.--WAR
AND DIPLOMACY AMONG THE KIRGHESE TRIBES.--RUSSIAN TAXES AND
THEIR COLLECTION.--TURCOMAN AND KIRGHESE RAIDS.--PRISONERS
SOLD INTO SLAVERY.--FORTIFIED VILLAGES AND TOWERS OF
REFUGE.--COMMERCE IN TURKESTAN.--JEALOUSY OF
FOREIGNERS.--TRAVELS OF VÁMBÉRY AND OTHERS.--VÁMBÉRY'S NARROW
ESCAPE.--TURCOMAN CHARACTER.--PAYMENTS FOR HUMAN HEADS.--MARRIAGE
CUSTOMS AMONG THE TURCOMANS.--EXTENT AND POPULATION OF CENTRAL
ASIA. 428

CHAPTER XXII.

FRANK AND FRED IN THE TURCOMAN COUNTRY.--THE TRANS-CASPIAN
RAILWAY.--SKOBELEFF'S CAMPAIGN, AND THE CAPTURE OF GEOK
TEPÉ.--ENGLISH JEALOUSY OF RUSSIAN ADVANCES.--RIVERS OF
CENTRAL ASIA.--THE OXUS AND JAXARTES.--AGRICULTURE BY
IRRIGATION.--KHIVA, SAMARCAND, AND BOKHARA.--A RIDE ON THE
TRANS-CASPIAN RAILWAY.--STATISTICS OF THE LINE.--KIZIL ARVAT,
ASKABAD, AND SARAKHS.--ROUTE TO HERAT AND INDIA.--TURCOMAN
DEVASTATION.--THE AFGHAN BOUNDARY QUESTION.--HOW MERV WAS
CAPTURED.--O'DONOVAN AND MACGAHAN: THEIR REMARKABLE
JOURNEYS.--RAILWAY ROUTE FROM ENGLAND TO INDIA.--RETURN TO BAKU. 451