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Chapter XXIII

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BAKU TO TIFLIS.--THE CAPITAL OF THE CAUCASUS.--MOUNTAIN
TRAVELLING.--CROSSING THE RANGE.--PETROLEUM LOCOMOTIVES.--BATOUM
AND ITS IMPORTANCE.--TREBIZOND AND ERZEROOM.--SEBASTOPOL AND
THE CRIMEA.--SHORT HISTORY OF THE CRIMEAN WAR.--RUSSO-TURKISH
WAR OF 1877-78.--BATTLES IN THE CRIMEA AND SIEGE OF
SEBASTOPOL.--VISITING THE MALAKOFF AND REDAN FORTS.--VIEW OF
THE BATTLE-FIELDS.--CHARGE OF THE LIGHT BRIGADE AT
BALAKLAVA.--PRESENT CONDITION OF SEBASTOPOL.--ODESSA.--ARRIVAL
AT CONSTANTINOPLE.--FRANK'S DREAM.--THE END. 480

ILLUSTRATIONS.

Winter Scene in Russia _Frontispiece._
Fred's Reminder 15
St. Stephen's Cathedral, Vienna 16
View of the Palace of Cracow 17
Kosciusko, 1777 18
Kosciusko, 1817 19
Church of St Mary, Cracow 20
Polish Jew of high Rank 21
Polish Jews of the Middle Class 22
Our Guide in Costume 23
The Inspector-general 24
The Shaft 26
Descending the Shaft 27
Lamp-bearers 28
A Foot-path 29
An Underground Chapel 31
Men Cutting Salt in the Mine 32
Finishing the Columns 33
Subterranean Stables 34
A Mining Singer 35
"Glück-auf!" 36
Fête in the Grand Saloon of Entertainment 37
A Retired Director 38
Outer Wall of Cracow 40
Custom-house Formalities 41
Passport not Correct 42
In the Passport Bureau 43
Way Station on the Railway 45
Before Examination 46
After Examination 47
Scene on the Railway 48
Shutes for loading Coal on the Railway 49
Polish National Costumes 50
Peasant's Farm-house 51
Royal Palace at Warsaw 52
Shrine at a Gate-way 53
Lake in the Park 54
A Business Man of Warsaw 55
In St. Petersburg 56
Isvoshchiks in Winter 59
Drosky Drivers 60
Sledge of a high Official 63
Russian Workmen on their way Home 65
Russian Officer with Decorations 66
A Russian Priest 68
Convent of Solovetsk in the Frozen Sea 71
The Inundation of 1824 72
Statue of Peter the Great 73
Improvising a Statue 75
Tea-sellers in the Streets 77
Russian Restaurant at the Paris Exposition 78
An Out-door Tea-party 79
Russian Mujiks drinking Tea 81
Plant from which Yellow Tea is made 82
Column in Memory of Alexander I. 83
Peter the Great 85
Assassination of Peter III. 87
Paul I. 88
Russian and Finn 89
Dvornik and Postman 90
Lodgings at the Frontier 91
Ordered to leave Russia 92
Finland Peasants in Holiday Costume 94
Inhabitants of Southern Russia 95
St. Isaac's Church and Admiralty Square 96
Priest of the Church of St. Isaac 98
Catherine II. of Russia 99
Reception of John Paul Jones by the Empress Catherine 101
Russian Attack on the Turkish Galley 103
The Orloff Diamond 104
Nicholas I. 105
Peter III. 106
Circassian Arms as Trophies of Battle 107
Statue of Nicholas I. 108
Politeness in the Market-place 111
Importuning a Visitor 113
Frozen Animals in the Market 114
Market for old Clothes 116
Pigeons in a Russian City 118
Persian Horses presented by the Shah 119
Russian Peasant Girl 120
Russian Nurse-maid and Children 121
Some of Kriloff's Friends 122
Kriloff's Characters in Convention 123
The Fox as a Law-giver 126
One of Kriloff's Characters 127
Closing Scene in a Russian Play 128
Kriloff's Statue in the Summer Garden, St. Petersburg 129
Press-room of a Daily Newspaper 131
Interviewing an Editor 132
Prince Gortchakoff 133
Cabinet and Chair in the Palace 135
Illumination in a Russian Park 136
Tapestry and Fire Utensils at Peterhof 137
Door-way of Peter's House at Zaandam, Holland 138
A Student of Navigation 139
Steam Frigate near Cronstadt 140
Frigate under Sail and Steam 141
The _Dreadnought_--type of the _Peter the Great_ 142
The Russian Army--Regular Troops 143
Cossack Lancers and Russian Guard-house 144
The Russian Army--Irregular Troops 146
Grand-duke Michael 148
Iron-clad Steamer of the Baltic Fleet 149
Little Folks at School 151
Learning to Weave 152
Mineral Cabinet in the University 153
Parlor in a High-school for Women 155
Private Room of a wealthy Student 156
Lower Recitation-room 157
One of the Professors 158
Descending a Shaft 159
Galleries in a Mine 160
In the Library 161
A College Dormitory 162
Jewish Burial-ground 163
Clothes-dealer of Moscow 164
A Russian Troika 165
A Villa on the Island 166
A Russian Family 167
Culprit Street-sweepers 169
A Business Transaction 170
Peter the Great dressed for Battle 171
An Imperial Nosegay 173
Mujiks playing Cards 174
Peasant's House in Southern Russia 176
Peasants' Huts 178
Esthonian Peasants 179
Alexander II., the Liberator of the Serfs 181
Alexander III., Emperor of Russia 182
Battle between Russians and Circassians 184
Schamyl's Village in the Caucasus 185
The Empress Marie Féodorovna, Wife of Alexander III. 186
Russian Peasants at their Recreation 187
"Who is the Spy?" 189
Officers sitting in Judgment 191
Russian Grand-duke and Grand-duchess 192
Fur-bearing Seals 194
Sea-otter 195
The Beaver 195
The Ermine 196
The Raccoon 196
Russian Ice-hills 198
Soldiers off Duty--Butter-week 199
The Easter Kiss--agreeable 200
The Easter Kiss--in the Family 200
The Easter Kiss--difficult 201
The Easter Kiss--disagreeable 201
The Emperor's Easter Kiss 203
Peasant Girl in Winter Dress 204
A Bath in the East 206
Russian Street Scene in Winter 208
Lost in a Snow-storm 210
Workmen of Novgorod--Glazier, Painter, and Carpenters 212
An Old Norse Chief 213
View on the Steppe 216
Ivan the Terrible 217
Alexis Michailovitch, Father of Peter the Great 219
Michael Feodorovitch, First Czar of the Romanoff Family 220
Too near to be pleasant 221
Wolf attacking its Hunters 222
Old Picture in the Church 224
A Bishop of the Greek Church 225
Millennial Monument at Novgorod 227
Russian Boats 228
Portrait of Catherine II. in the Kremlin Collection 229
Street Scene in Moscow 231
Bivouacking in the Snow 232
Battle between French and Russians 233
Napoleon Retreating from Moscow 235
Alexander I. 236
View in the Kremlin 237
A Prisoner ordered to Execution 238
The Kremlin of Moscow 239
The Great Bell underground 240
Visiting the Great Bell 241
Empress Anne 242
The Empress Elizabeth 243
Coronation of Alexander III. 245
Peter II. 246
Bishop in his Robes 247
Great Gun at Moscow 249
The Cathedral at Moscow 250
Napoleon's Retreat from Moscow 251
Dress of Peasants--Scene from a Russian Opera 253
A Dressing-room of the Opera-house 254
Working the Ship in "L'Africaine" 255
Minin-Pojarsky Monument 257
Peter's Escape from Assassination 258
Peter the Great as Executioner 260
Catherine I. 261
Catherine II. 263
Grand-duke Nicholas Alexandrovitch 264
Skinned and Stuffed Man 266
Russian Beggars 267
Tartar Coffee-house in Southern Russia 269
Gallery in the Palace 270
Copy of Picture in the Monastery 272
Window in Church of the Trinity 273
Pity the Poor 274
Curious Agate at Troitska 275
Paper-knife from Troitska--St. Sergius and the Bear 276
Specimens of Ecclesiastical Painting on Glass 277
Russian Cooper's Shop and Dwelling 278
Nijni Novgorod during the Fair 280
Nijni Novgorod after the Fair 281
Tartar Merchant 282
Returning from the Fair 283
Launching a Russian Barge 285
Tartar Village near the Volga 286
Tartar Baker's Shop 287
A Siberian Village 289
Petropavlovsk, Kamtchatka.--Mount Avatcha in Background 290
A Herd of Reindeer 291
Dog teams and Reindeer 293
Light-house at Ghijigha 294
Ermine-trap 295
Interior of a Native House 295
The Reindeer 296
Fish-market at Nicolayevsk 297
Scenery on the Amoor 298
Gilyak Woman 299
Gilyak Man 299
Native Boat--Amoor River 300
Goldee Children 300
A Goldee Man and Woman 301
Inauguration of Genghis Khan 302
Junction of the Argoon and Shilka to form the Amoor 303
Scene in a Posting Station 304
A Tarantasse 306
Changing Horses at a Siberian Station 307
The Right of Way in Russia 309
Getting out of Difficulty 310
Valley of the Amoor above Ouk-se-me 312
Interior of an Exile's Hut 314
Exiles passing through a Village 315
A Town built by Exiles 317
Banished for Five Years 318
Banished for Three Years 318
Colonist's Village in Winter 319
Exiles leaving Moscow 321
Tagilsk, centre of Iron-mines of Siberia 322
A Siberian Valley 323
Two Exiled Friends Meeting 325
Escaping Exiles crossing a Stream 326
Ivanoff's Cave 327
Exiles among the Mountains 329
Siberian Peasants 331
Siberian Milk-women 332
Siberia in Summer 333
An Exile Peasant and his Friends 335
A Siberian Landscape 336
Girls Playing at Skakiet 337
A Village Festival 338
Russian Peasant Women 340
Making Calls after a Wedding 342
Ceremony after a Peasant's Wedding 343
The Mountains near Chetah 345
A Bouriat Village 346
A Wandering Priest 347
Crossing the Selenga 349
Finding Lodgings at Kiachta 351
Chinese Cash from Mai-mai-chin 352
Articles of Russian Manufacture 353
Scene in a Chinese Temple 354
Theatre at Mai-mai-chin 355
The Tiger 356
A Natural Arch on Lake Baikal 357
Caverns on Lake Baikal 358
Part of Irkutsk 359
View of the Principal Square in Irkutsk 360
Dressed for the Road 362
A Vashok 363
My Kibitka 364
Farewell to Irkutsk 365
Work of the Frost-king 367
Interior of a Russian Inn 369
Mail-driver and Guard 370
Distant View of a Siberian Village 371
Soldiers in Siberian Ferry-boats 373
View of Krasnoyarsk from the opposite Bank of the Yenisei 374
A Dangerous Ride 376
Beggar at a Siberian Station 378
Policeman at Krasnoyarsk 380
Hills near a Siberian River 381
Jumping an "Oukhaba" 382
Wolves Attacking a Buffalo 384
A Siberian Wolf 385
Summer and Winter in Russia 386
Village on a Russian Estate 388
A Slight Mishap 389
Summer View near Barnaool 391
Attacked by a Tiger 393
Bearcoots and Wolves 394
The Steppe in Summer 395
Specimen of Rock-crystal 397
Monument at the Boundary 397
Western Slope of the Ural Mountains 398
Descending a Hill-side Road 400
Baptizing through the Ice 401
End of the Sleigh-ride 402
Offering of the Villagers 404
Shoeing an Ox 406
Knife-whip 407
Armenian Bishop of Astrachan 408
A Tartar Khan 409
Tartar Postilions 410
Tartar Palaces in Southern Russia 411
Gypsy Family at Astrachan 412
An Oil-steamer on the Caspian Sea 413
Tanks at a Storage Depot 413
View in an Oil Region 414
Bits for Drilling Wells 415
A Spouting Well 416
Derrick and Tanks in the American Oil Region 417
An Oil Refinery with Tank Cars 419
Tartar Camel-cart at Baku 420
Ancient Mound near the Caspian Sea 421
Curious Rock Formations 422
Modern Fire-worshippers--Parsee Lady and Daughter 423
A Burning Tank 425
A Fall in Oil 426
A Rise in Oil 426
Camp Scene near the Altai Mountains 429
A Kalmuck Priest 430
Scene on the Edge of the Kirghese Steppe 431
Kirghese Group 432
Kirghese Chief and Family 433
Caravan in Russian Territory 434
Kirghese Raid on a Hostile Tribe 436
Lasgird--A Fortified Village in Northern Persia 438
Tower of Refuge 439
Framework of Turcoman Tent 440
The Tent Covered 440
Interior of Tent 441
Vámbéry's Reception by Turcoman Chief on the Caspian Shore 442
Receiving Payment for Human Heads--Khiva 443
Turcoman Trophy--A Russian Head 445
Kökbüri--A Race for a Bride 447
View of the Citadel of Khiva 448
An Ozbek Head 449
Map showing the Relations of Russia and England in the East 451
Sand-storm in the Desert 452
Turcoman Court of Justice 453
Kirghese Tomb 454
Charge of Russian Cavalry against Turcomans 455
Russian Army on the Turcoman Steppes 457
Winter Camp in Turcomania 459
Turcoman Irrigating Wheel 460
Scene at a Ferry on the Oxus 461
Map of the Russo-Afghan Region 462
Turcoman Woman Spinning 464
Village of Turcoman Tents 465
The New Russo-Afghan Frontier 466
Old Sarakhs 468
Sarik Turcoman Woman 469
Pul-i-Khisti and Ak Tapa 470
Penjdeh 471
Colonel Alikhanoff 472
The Great Highway of Central Asia 473
Turcoman Farm-yard 475
Map of Turkestan, showing Route of Trans-Caspian Railway 476
Crossing a River in Central Asia 478
A Native Traveller 479
Looking down on the Steppe 481
View of Tiflis 483
The Pass of Dariel, Caucasus 485
Governor-general of the Caucasus 486
Ruined Fortress in the Caucasus 487
Ruined Church near Batoum 488
Quarantine Harbor, Trebizond 489
View of Erzeroom 490
Turkish Authority 492
View of Sebastopol 495
Ruins of the Malakoff, Sebastopol 496
Russian Carpenters at Work 498
Cossacks and Chasseurs 499
British Soldiers in Camp 501
Alfred Tennyson 502
A Broken Tarantasse 503
The Bosporus 504
Map to accompany the Boy Travellers in the
Russian Empire _Front Cover._
Map showing the Russian Empire Routes as
Described by the Boy Travellers _Back Cover._

THE BOY TRAVELLERS

IN THE

RUSSIAN EMPIRE.

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The Boy Travellers in The Russian EmpireChapter XXIII

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