Chapter V: Appendix: The A-B-Z of Cheese (5)

This toasted cheeser is so good it's positively sinful. The French, who outdo us in both cooking and sin, make one of their own in the form of fried fingers of stale bread doused in an 'arf and 'arf Welsh Rabbit and Fondue melting of Gruyère, that serves as a liaison to further sandwich the two.

Garlic is often used in place of chopped chives, and in contrast to this wild one there's a mild one made of Dutch cream cheese by the equally Dutch Pennsylvanians.

England, of course, together with Wales, holds all-time honors with such celebrated regional "toasting cheeses" as Devonshire and Dunlop. Even British Newfoundland is known for its simple version, that's quite as pleasing as its rich Prince Edward Island Oyster Stew.

Newfoundland Toasted Cheese Sandwich

1 pound grated Cheddar 1 egg, well beaten 1/2 cup milk 1 tablespoon butter

Heat together and pour over well-buttered toast.

_Chapter Eleven_

"Fit for Drink"

A country without a fit drink for cheese has no cheese fit for
drink.

Greece was the first country to prove its epicurean fitness, according to the old saying above, for it had wine to tipple and sheep's milk cheese to nibble. The classical Greek cheese has always been Feta, and no doubt this was the kind that Circe combined most suitably with wine to make a farewell drink for her lovers. She put further sweetness and body into the stirrup cup by stirring honey and barley meal into it. Today we might whip this up in an electric mixer to toast her memory.

While a land flowing with milk and honey is the ideal of many, France, Italy, Spain or Portugal, flowing with wine and honey, suit a lot of gourmets better. Indeed, in such vinous-caseous places cheese is on the house at all wine sales for prospective customers to snack upon and thus bring out the full flavor of the cellared vintages. But professional wine tasters are forbidden any cheese between sips. They may clear their palates with plain bread, but nary a crumb of Roquefort or cube of Gruyère in working hours, lest it give the wine a spurious nobility.

And, speaking of Roquefort, Romanée has the closest affinity for it. Such affinities are also found in Pont l'Evêque and Beaujolais, Brie and red champagne, Coulommiers and any good _vin rosé_. Heavenly marriages are made in Burgundy between red and white wines of both Côtes, de Nuits and de Baune, and Burgundian cheeses such as Epoisses, Soumaintarin and Saint-Florentin. Pommard and Port-Salut seem to be made for each other, as do Château Margaux and Camembert.

A great cheese for a great wine is the rule that brings together in the neighboring provinces such notables as Sainte Maure, Valençay, Vendôme and the Loire wines--Vouvray, Saumur and Anjou. Gruyère mates with Chablis, Camembert with St. Emilion; and any dry red wine, most commonly claret, is a fit drink for the hundreds of other fine French cheeses.

Every country has such happy marriages, an Italian standard being Provolone and Chianti. Then there is a most unusual pair, French Neufchâtel cheese and Swiss Neuchâtel wine from just across the border. Switzerland also has another cheese favorite at home--Trauben (grape cheese), named from the Neuchâtel wine in which it is aged.

One kind of French Neufchâtel cheese, Bondon, is also uniquely suited to the company of any good wine because it is made in the exact shape and size of a wine barrel bung. A similar relation is found in Brinzas (or Brindzas) that are packed in miniature wine barrels, strongly suggesting what should be drunk with such excellent cheeses: Hungarian Tokay. Other foreign cheeses go to market wrapped in vine leaves. The affinity has clearly been laid down in heaven.

Only the English seem to have a _fortissimo_ taste in the go-with wines, according to these matches registered by André Simon in _The Art of Good Living:_

Red Cheshire with Light Tawny Port White Cheshire with Oloroso Sherry Blue Leicester with Old Vintage Port Green Roquefort with New Vintage Port

To these we might add brittle chips of Greek Casere with nips of Amontillado, for an eloquent appetizer.

The English also pour port into Stilton, and sundry other wines and liquors into Cheddars and such. This doctoring leads to fraudulent imitation, however, for either port or stout is put into counterfeit Cheshire cheese to make up for the richness it lacks.

While some combinations of cheeses and wines may turn out palatable, we prefer taking ours straight. When something more fiery is needed we can twirl the flecks of pure gold in a chalice of Eau de Vie de Danzig and nibble on legitimate Danzig cheese unadulterated. _Goldwasser_, or Eau de Vie, was a favorite liqueur of cheese-loving Franklin Roosevelt, and we can be sure he took the two separately.

Another perfect combination, if you can take it, is imported kümmel with any caraway-seeded cheese, or cream cheese with a handy saucer of caraway seeds. In the section of France devoted to gin, the juniper berries that flavor the drink also go into a local cheese, Fromage Fort. This is further fortified with brandy, white wine and pepper. One regional tipple with such brutally strong cheese is black coffee laced with gin.

French la Jonchée is another potted thriller with not only coffee and rum mixed in during the making, but orange flower water, too. Then there is la Petafina, made with brandy and absinthe; Hazebrook with brandy alone; and la Cachat with white wine and brandy.

In Italy white Gorgonzola is also put up in crocks with brandy. In Oporto the sharp cheese of that name is enlivened by port, Cider and the greatest of applejacks, Calvados, seem made to go the regional Calvados cheese. This is also true of our native Jersey Lightning and hard cider with their accompanying New York State cheese. In the Auge Valley of France, farmers also drink homemade cider with their own Augelot, a piquant kind of Pont l'Evêque.

The English sip pear cider (perry) with almost any British cheese. Milk would seem to be redundant, but Sage cheese and buttermilk do go well together.

Wine and cheese have other things in common. Some wines and some cheeses are aged in caves, and there are vintage cheeses no less than vintage wines, as is the case with Stilton.

_Chapter Twelve_

Lazy Lou

Once, so goes the sad story, there was a cheesemonger unworthy of his heritage. He exported a shipload of inferior "Swiss" made somewhere in the U.S.A. Bad to begin with, it had worsened on the voyage. Rejected by the health authorities on the other side, it was shipped back, reaching home in the unhappy condition known as "cracked." To cut his losses the rascally cheesemonger had his cargo ground up and its flavor disguised with hot peppers and chili sauce. Thus there came into being the abortion known as the "cheese spread."

The cheese spread or "food" and its cousin, the processed cheese, are handy, cheap and nasty. They are available everywhere and some people even like them. So any cheese book is bound to take formal notice of their existence. I have done so--and now, an unfond farewell to them.

My academic cheese education began at the University of Wisconsin in 1904. I grew up with our great Midwest industry; I have read with profit hundreds of pamphlets put out by the learned Aggies of my Alma Mater. Mostly they treat of honest, natural cheeses: the making, keeping and enjoying of authentic Longhorn Cheddars, short Bricks and naturalized Limburgers.

At the School of Agriculture the students still, I am told, keep their hand in by studying the classical layout on a cheese board. One booklet recommends the following for freshman contemplation:

CARAWAY BRICK SELECT BRICK EDAM
WISCONSIN SWISS LONGHORN AMERICAN SHEFFORD

These six sturdy samples of Wisconsin's best will stimulate any amount of classroom discussion. Does the Edam go better with German-American black bread or with Swedish Ry-Krisp? To butter or not to butter? And if to butter, with which cheese? Salt or sweet? How close do we come to the excellence of the genuine Alpine Swiss? Primary school stuff, but not unworthy of thought.

Pass on down the years. You are now ready to graduate. Your cheese board can stand a more sophisticated setup. Try two boards; play the teams against each other.

The All-American Champs

NEW YORK COON PHILADELPHIA CREAM OHIO LIEDERKRANZ
VERMONT SAGE KENTUCKY TRAPPIST WISCONSIN LIMBURGER
CALIFORNIA JACK PINEAPPLE
MINNESOTA BLUE
BRICK
TILLAMOOK

VS.

The European Giants

PORTUGUESE TRAZ- DUTCH GOUDA ITALIAN PARMESAN OS-MONTES FRENCH ROQUEFORT SWISS EMMENTALER YUGOSLAVIAN KACKAVALJ ENGLISH STILTON DANISH BLUE GERMAN MÜNSTER GREEK FETA HABLÉ

The postgraduate may play the game using as counters the great and distinctive cheeses of more than fifty countries. Your Scandinavian board alone, just to give an idea of the riches available, will shine with blues, yellows, whites, smoky browns, and chocolates representing Sweden, Norway, Denmark, Finland, Iceland and Lapland.

For the Britisher only blue-veined Stilton is worthy to crown the banquet. The Frenchman defends Roquefort, the Dane his own regal Blue; the Swiss sticks to Emmentaler before, during and after all three meals. You may prefer to finish with a delicate Brie, a smoky slice of Provolone, a bit of Baby Gouda, or some Liptauer Garniert, about which more later.

We load them all on Lazy Lou, Lazy Susan's big twin brother, a giant roulette wheel of cheese, every number a winner. A second Lazy Lou will bear the savories and go-withs. For these tidbits the English have a divine genius; think of the deviled shrimps, smoked oysters, herring roe on toast, snips of broiled sausage ... But we will make do with some olives and radishes, a few pickles, nuts, capers. With our two trusty Lazy Lous on hand plus wine or beer, we can easily dispense with the mere dinner itself.

Perhaps it is an Italian night. Then Lazy Lou is happily burdened with imported Latticini; Incanestrato, still bearing the imprint of its wicker basket; Pepato, which is but Incanestrato peppered; Mel Fina; deep-yellow, buttery Scanno with its slightly burned flavor; tangy Asiago; Caciocavallo, so called because the cheeses, tied in pairs and hung over a pole, look as though they were sitting in a saddle--cheese on horseback, or "_cacio a cavallo_." Then we ring in Lazy Lou's first assistant, an old, silver-plated, revolving Florentine magnum-holder. It's designed to spin a gigantic flask of Chianti. The flick of a finger and the bottle is before you. Gently pull it down and hold your glass to the spout.

True, imported wines and cheeses are expensive. But native American products and reasonably edible imitations of the real thing are available as substitutes. Anyway, protein for protein, a cheese party will cost less than a steak barbecue. And it can be more fun.

Encourage your guests to contribute their own latest discoveries. One may bring along as his ticket of admission a Primavera from Brazil; another some cubes of an Andean specialty just flown in from Colombia's mountain city, Mérida, and still wrapped in its aromatic leaves of _Frailejón Lanudo_; another a few wedges of savory sweet English Flower cheese, some flavored with rose petals, others with marigolds; another a tube of South American Kräuterkäse.

Provide your own assortment of breads and try to include some of those fat, flaky old-fashioned crackers that country stores in New England can still supply. Mustard? Sure, if you like it. If you want to be fancy, use a tricky little gadget put out by the Maille condiment-makers in France and available here in the food specialty shops. It's a miniature painter's palate holding five mustards of different shades and flavors and two mustard paddles. The mustards, in proper chromatic order, are: jonquil yellow "Strong Dijon"; "Green Herbs"; brownish "Tarragon"; golden "Ora"; crimson "Tomato-flavored."

And, just to keep things moving, we have restored an antique whirling cruet-holder to deliver Worcestershire sauce, soy sauce, A-1, Tap Sauce and Major Grey's Chutney. Salt shakers and pepper mills are handy, with a big-holed tin canister filled with crushed red-pepper pods, chili powder, Hungarian-paprika and such small matters. Butter, both sweet and salt, is on hand, together with, saucers or bowls of curry, capers, chives (sliced, not chopped), minced onion, fresh mint leaves, chopped pimientos, caraway, quartered lemons, parsley, fresh tarragon, tomato slices, red and white radishes, green and black olives, pearl onions and assorted nutmeats.

Some years ago, when I was collaborating with my mother, Cora, and my wife, Rose, in writing _10,000 Snacks_ (which, by the way, devotes nearly forty pages to cheeses), we staged a rather elaborate tasting party just for the three of us. It took a two-tiered Lazy Lou to twirl the load.

The eight wedges on the top round were English and French samples and the lower one carried the rest, as follows:

ENGLISH CHEDDAR CHESHIRE ENGLISH STILTON CANADIAN CHEDDAR
(rum flavored)

FRENCH MÜNSTER FRENCH BRIE FRENCH FRENCH
CAMEMBERT ROQUEFORT

SWISS SAPSAGO SWISS GRUYERE SWISS EDAM DUTCH GOUDA

ITALIAN CZECH ITALIAN NORWEGIAN
PROVOLONE OSTIEPKI GORGONZOLA GJETOST

HUNGARIAN LIPTAUER

The tasting began with familiar English Cheddars, Cheshires and Stiltons from the top row. We had cheese knives, scoops, graters, scrapers and a regulation wire saw, but for this line of crumbly Britishers fingers were best.

The Cheddar was a light, lemony-yellow, almost white, like our best domestic "bar cheese" of old.

The Cheshire was moldy and milky, with a slightly fermented flavor that brought up the musty dining room of Fleet Street's Cheshire cheese and called for draughts of beer. The Stilton was strong but mellow, as high in flavor as in price.

Only the rum-flavored Canadian Cheddar from Montreal (by courtesy English) let us down. It was done up as fancy as a bridegroom in waxed white paper and looked as smooth and glossy as a gardenia. But there its beauty ended. Either the rum that flavored it wasn't up to much or the mixture hadn't been allowed to ripen naturally.

The French Münster, however, was hearty, cheery, and better made than most German Münster, which at that time wasn't being exported much by the Nazis. The Brie was melting prime, the Camembert was so perfectly matured we ate every scrap of the crust, which can't be done with many American "Camemberts" or, indeed, with the dead, dry French ones sold out of season. Then came the Roquefort, a regal cheese we voted the best buy of the lot, even though it was the most expensive. A plump piece, pleasantly unctuous but not greasy, sharp in scent, stimulatingly bittersweet in taste--unbeatable. There is no American pretender to the Roquefort throne. Ours is invariably chalky and tasteless. That doesn't mean we have no good Blues. We have. But they are not Roquefort.

The Sapsago or Kräuterkäse from Switzerland (it has been made in the Canton of Glarus for over five hundred years) was the least expensive of the lot. Well-cured and dry, it lent itself to grating and tasted fine on an old-fashioned buttered soda cracker. Sapsago has its own seduction, derived from the clover-leaf powder with which the curd is mixed and which gives it its haunting flavor and spring-like sage-green color.

Next came some truly great Swiss Gruyère, delicately rich, and nutty enough to make us think of the sharp white wines to be drunk with it at the source.

As for the Provolone, notable for the water-buffalo milk that makes it, there's an example of really grown-up milk. Perfumed as spring flowers drenched with a shower of Anjou, having a bouquet all its own and a trace of a winelike kick, it made us vow never to taste another American imitation. Only a smooth-cheeked, thick slab cut from a pedigreed Italian Provolone of medium girth, all in one piece and with no sign of a crack, satisfy the gourmet.

The second Italian classic was Gorgonzola, gorgeous Gorgonzola, as fruity as apples, peaches and pears sliced together. It smells so much like a ripe banana we often eat them together, plain or with the crumbly _formaggio_ lightly forked into the fruit, split lengthwise.

After that the Edam tasted too lipsticky, like the red-paint job on its rind, and the Gouda seemed only half-hearted. Both too obviously ready-made for commerce with nothing individual or custom-made about them, rolled or bounced over from Holland by the boat load.

The Ostiepki from Czechoslovakia might have been a link of smoked ostrich sausage put up in the skin of its own red neck. In spite of its pleasing lemon-yellow interior, we couldn't think of any use for it except maybe crumbling thirty or forty cents' worth into a ten-cent bowl of bean soup. But that seemed like a waste of money, so we set it aside to try in tiny chunks on crackers as an appetizer some other day, when it might be more appetizing.

We felt much the same about the chocolate-brown Norwegian Gjetost that looked like a slab of boarding-school fudge and which had the same cloying cling to the tongue. We were told by a native that our piece was entirely too young. That's what made it so insipid, undeveloped in texture and flavor. But the next piece we got turned out to be too old and decrepit, and so strong it would have taken a Paul Bunyan to stand up under it. When we complained to our expert about the shock to our palates, he only laughed, pointing to the nail on his little finger.

"You should take just a little bit, like that. A pill no bigger than a couple of aspirins or an Alka-Seltzer. It's only in the morning you take it when it's old and strong like this, for a pick-me-up, a cure for a hangover, you know, like a prairie oyster well soused in Worcestershire."

That made us think we might use it up to flavor a Welsh Rabbit, _instead_ of the Worcestershire sauce, but we couldn't melt it with anything less than a blowtorch.

To bring the party to a happy end, we went to town on the Hungarian Liptauer, garnishing that fine, granulating buttery base after mixing it well with some cream cheese. We mixed the mixed cheese with sardine and tuna mashed together in a little of the oil from the can. We juiced it with lemon, sluiced it with bottled sauces, worked in the leftovers, some tarragon, mint, spicy seeds, parsley, capers and chives. We peppered and paprikaed it, salted and spiced it, then spread it thicker than butter on pumpernickel and went to it. _That's_ Liptauer Garniert.

_Appendix_

The A-B-Z of Cheese

_Each cheese is listed by its name and country of origin, with any further information available. Unless otherwise indicated, the cheese is made of cow's milk._

A

Aberdeen _Scotland_

Soft; creamy mellow.

Abertam _Bohemia_ _(Made near Carlsbad_)

Hard; sheep; distinctive, with a savory smack all its own.

Absinthe _see_ Petafina.

Acidophilus _see_ Saint-Ivel.

Aettekees _Belgium_

November to May--winter-made and eaten.

Affiné, Carré _see_ Ancien Impérial.

Affumicata, Mozzarella _see_ Mozzarella.

After-dinner cheeses _see_ Chapter 8.

Agricultural school cheeses _see_ College-educated.

Aiguilles, Fromage d' _Alpine France_

Named "Cheese of the Needles" from the sharp Alpine peaks of the district where it is made.

Aizy, Cendrée d' _see_ Cendrée.

Ajacilo, Ajaccio _Corsica_

Semihard; piquant; nut-flavor. Named after the chief city of French Corsica where a cheese-lover, Napoleon, was born.

à la Crème _see_ Fromage, Fromage Blanc, Chevretons.

à la Main _see_ Vacherin.

à la Pie _see_ Fromage.

à la Rachette _see_ Bagnes.

Albini _Northern Italy_

Semihard; made of both goat and cow milk; white, mellow, pleasant-tasting table cheese.

Albula _Switzerland_

Rich with the flavor of cuds of green herbs chewed into creamy milk that makes tasty curds. Made in the fertile Swiss Valley of Albula whose proud name it bears.

Alderney _Channel Islands_

The French, who are fond of this special product of the very special breed of cattle named after the Channel Island of Alderney, translate it phonetically--Fromage d'Aurigny.

Alemtejo _Portugal_

Called in full Queijo de Alemtejo, cheese of Alemtejo, in the same way that so many French cheeses carry along the _fromage_ title. Soft; sheep and sometimes goat or cow; in cylinders of three sizes, weighing respectively about two ounces, one pound, and four pounds. The smaller sizes are the ones most often made with mixed goat and sheep milk. The method of curdling without the usual animal rennet is interesting and unusual. The milk is warmed and curdled with vegetable rennet made from the flowers of a local thistle, or cardoon, which is used in two other Portuguese cheeses--Queijo da Cardiga and Queijo da Serra da Estrella--and probably in many others not known beyond their locale. In France la Caillebotte is distinguished for being clabbered with _chardonnette_, wild artichoke seed. In Portugal, where there isn't so much separating of the sheep from the goats, it takes several weeks for Alemtejos to ripen, depending on the lactic content and difference in sizes.

Alfalfa _see_ Sage.

Alise Saint-Reine _France_

Soft; summer-made.

Allgäuer Bergkäse, Allgäuer Rundkäse, or Allgäuer Emmentaler _Bavaria_

Hard; Emmentaler type. The small district of Allgäu names a mountain of cheeses almost as fabulous as our "Rock-candy Mountain." There are two principal kinds, vintage Allgäuer Bergkäse and soft Allgäuer Rahmkäse, described below. This celebrated cheese section runs through rich pasture lands right down and into the Swiss Valley of the Emme that gives the name Emmentaler to one of the world's greatest. So it is no wonder that Allgäuer Bergkäse can compete with the best Swiss. Before the Russian revolution, in fact, all vintage cheeses of Allgäu were bought up by wealthy Russian noblemen and kept in their home caves in separate compartments for each year, as far back as the early 1900's. As with fine vintage wines, the price of the great years went up steadily. Such cheeses were shipped to their Russian owners only when the chief cheese-pluggers of Allgäu found they had reached their prime.

Allgäuer Rahmkäse _Bavaria_

Full cream, similar to Romadur and Limburger, but milder than both. This sets a high grade for similar cheeses made in the Bavarian mountains, in monasteries such as Andechs. It goes exquisitely with the rich dark Bavarian beer. Some of it is as slippery as the stronger, smellier Bierkäse, or the old-time Slipcote of England. Like so many North Europeans, it is often flavored with caraway. Although entirely different from its big brother, vintage Bergkäse, Rahmkäse can stand proudly at its side as one of the finest cheeses in Germany.

Alpe _see_ Fiore di Alpe.

Al Pepe _Italy_

Hard and peppery, like its name. Similar to Pepato (_see_).

Alpes _France_

Similar to Bel Paese.

Alpestra _Austria_

A smoked cheese that tastes, smells and inhales like whatever fish it was smoked with. The French Alps has a different Alpestre; Italy spells hers Alpestro.

Alpestre, Alpin, or Fromage de Briançon _France_

Hard; goat; dry; small; lightly salted. Made at Briançon and Gap.

Alpestro _Italy_

Semisoft; goat; dry; lightly salted.

Alpin or Clérimbert _Alpine France_

The milk is coagulated with rennet at 80° F. in two hours. The curd is dipped into molds three to four inches in diameter and two and a half inches in height, allowed to drain, turned several times for one day only, then salted and ripened one to two weeks.

Altenburg, or Altenburger Ziegenkäse _Germany_

Soft; goat; small and flat--one to two inches thick, eight inches in diameter, weight two pounds.

Alt Kuhkäse Old Cow Cheese _Germany_

Hard; well-aged, as its simple name suggests.

Altsohl _see_ Brinza.

Ambert, or Fourme d'Ambert _Limagne, Auvergne, France_

A kind of Cheddar made from November to May and belonging to the Cantal--Fourme-La Tome tribe.

American, American Cheddar _U.S.A._

Described under their home states and distinctive names are a dozen fine American Cheddars, such as Coon, Wisconsin, Herkimer County and Tillamook, to name only a few. They come in as many different shapes, with traditional names such as Daisies, Flats, Longhorns, Midgets, Picnics, Prints and Twins. The ones simply called Cheddars weigh about sixty pounds. All are made and pressed and ripened in about the same way, although they differ greatly in flavor and quality. They are ripened anywhere from two months to two years and become sharper, richer and more flavorsome, as well as more expensive, with the passing of time. _See_ Cheddar states and Cheddar types in Chapter 4.

Americano Romano _U.S.A._

Hard; brittle; sharp.

Amou _Béarn, France_

Winter cheese, October to May.

Anatolian _Turkey_

Hard; sharp.

Anchovy Links _U.S.A._

American processed cheese that can be mixed up with anchovies or any fish from whitebait to whale, made like a sausage and sold in handy links.

Ancien Impérial _Normandy, France_

Soft; fresh cream; white, mellow and creamy like Neufchâtel and made in the same way. Tiny bricks packaged in tin foil, two inches square, one-half inch thick, weighing three ounces. Eaten both fresh and when ripe. It is also called Carré and has separate names for the new and the old: (a) Petit Carré when newly made; (b) Carré Affiné, when it has reached a ripe old age, which doesn't take long--about the same time as Neufchâtel.

Ancona _see_ Pecorino.

Andean _Venezuela_

A cow's-milker made in the Andes near Mérida. It is formed into rough cubes and wrapped in the pungent, aromatic leaves of _Frailejón Lanudo_ (_Espeletia Schultzii_) which imparts to it a characteristic flavor. (Description given in _Buen Provecho!_ by Dorothy Kamen-Kaye.)

Andechs _Bavaria_

A lusty Allgäuer type. Monk-made on the monastery hill at Andechs on Ammersee. A superb snack with equally monkish dark beer, black bread and blacker radishes, served by the brothers in dark brown robes.

Antwerp _Belgium_

Semihard; nut-flavored; named after its place of origin.

Appenzeller _Switzerland, Bavaria and Baden_

Semisoft Emmentaler type made in a small twenty-pound wheel--a pony-cart wheel in comparison to the big Swiss. There are two qualities: (a) Common, made of skim milk and cured in brine for a year; (b) Festive, full milk, steeped in brine with wine, plus white wine lees and pepper. The only cheese we know of that is ripened with lees of wine.

Appetitost _Denmark_

Semisoft; sour milk; nutlike flavor. It's an appetizer that lives up to its name, eaten fresh on the spot, from the loose bottom pans in which it is made.

Appetost _Denmark_

Sour buttermilk, similar to Primula, with caraway seeds added for snap. Imitated in U.S.A.

Apple _U.S.A._

A small New York State Cheddar put up in the form of a red-cheeked apple for New York City trade. Inspired by the pear-shaped Provolone and Baby Gouda, no doubt.

Arber _Bohemia_

Semihard; sour milk; yellow; mellow and creamy. Made in mountains between Bohemia and Silesia.

Argentine _Argentina_

Argentina is specially noted for fine reproductions of classical Italian hard-grating cheeses such as Parmesan and Romano, rich and fruity because of the lush pampas-grass feeding.

Armavir _Western Caucasus_

Soft; whole sour sheep milk; a hand cheese made by stirring cold, sour buttermilk or whey into heated milk, pressing in forms and ripening in a warm place. Similar to Hand cheese.

Arnauten _see_ Travnik.

Arovature _Italy_

Water-buffalo milk.

Arras, Coeurs d' _see_ Coeurs.

Arrigny _Champagne, France_

Made only in winter, November to May. Since gourmet products of the same province often have a special affinity, Arrigny and champagne are specially well suited to one another.

Artichoke, Cardoon or Thistle for Rennet _see_ Caillebotte.

Artificial Dessert Cheese

In the lavish days of olde England Artificial Dessert Cheese was made by mixing one quart of cream with two of milk and spiking it with powdered cinnamon, nutmeg and mace. Four beaten eggs were then stirred in with one-half cup of white vinegar and the mixture boiled to a curd. It was then poured into a cheesecloth and hung up to drain six to eight hours. When taken out of the cloth it was further flavored with rose water, sweetened with castor sugar, left to ripen for an hour or two and finally served up with more cream.

Asadero, or Oaxaca _Jalisco and Oaxaca, Mexico_

White; whole-milk. Curd is heated, and hot curd is cut and braided or kneaded into loaves from eight ounces to eleven pounds in weight Asadero means "suitable for roasting."

Asco _Corsica, France_

Made only in the winter season, October to May.

Asiago I, II and III _Vicenza, Italy_

Sometimes classed as medium and mild, depending mostly on age. Loaves weigh about eighteen pounds each and look like American Cheddar but have a taste all their own.

I. Mild, nutty and sharp, used for table slicing and eating.

II. Medium, semihard and tangy, also used for slicing until nine months old.

III. Hard, old, dry, sharp, brittle. When over nine months old, it's fine for grating.

Asin, or Water cheese _Northern Italy_

Sour-milk; washed-curd; whitish; soft; buttery. Made mostly in spring and eaten in summer and autumn. Dessert cheese, frequently eaten with honey and fruit.

Au Cumin _see_ Münster.

Au Fenouil _see_ Tome de Savoie.

Au Foin and de Foin

A style of ripening "on the hay." _See_ Pithiviers au Foin and Fromage de Foin.

Augelot _Valée d'Auge, Normandy, France_

Soft; tangy; piquant Pont l'Evêque type.

d'Auray _see_ Sainte-Anne.

Aurigny, Fromage d' _see_ Alderney.

Aurillac _see_ Bleu d'Auvergne.

Aurore and Triple Aurore _Normandy, France_

Made and eaten all year.

Australian and New Zealand _Australia and New Zealand_

Enough cheese is produced for local consumption, chiefly Cheddar; some Gruyère, but unfortunately mostly processed.

Autun _Nivernais, France_

Produced and eaten all year. Fromage de Vache is another name for it and this is of special interest in a province where the chief competitors are made of goat's milk.

Auvergne, Bleu d' _see_ Bleu.

Au Vin Blanc, Confits _see_ Epoisses.

Avesnes, Boulette d' _see_ Boulette.

Aydes, les _Orléanais, France_

Not eaten during July, August or September. Season, October to June.

Azeitão, Queijo do _Portugal_

Soft, sheep, sapid and extremely oily as the superlative _ão_ implies. There are no finer, fatter cheeses in the world than those made of rich sheep milk in the mountains of Portugal and named for them.

Azeitoso _Portugal_

Soft; mellow, zestful and as oily as it is named.

Azuldoch Mountain _Turkey_

Mild and mellow mountain product.

B

Backsteiner _Bavaria_

Resembles Limburger, but smaller, and translates Brick, from the shape. It is aromatic and piquant and not very much like the U.S. Brick.

Bagnes, or Fromage à la Raclette _Switzerland_

Not only hard but very hard, named from _racler_, French for "scrape." A thick, one-half-inch slice is cut across the whole cheese and toasted until runny. It is then scraped off the pan it's toasted in with a flexible knife, spread on bread and eaten like an open-faced Welsh Rabbit sandwich.

Bagozzo, Grana Bagozzo, Bresciano _Italy_

Hard; yellow; sharp. Surface often colored red. Parmesan type.

Bakers' cheese

Skim milk, similar to cottage cheese, but softer and finer grained. Used in making bakery products such as cheese cake, pie, and pastries, but may also be eaten like creamed cottage cheese.

Ball _U.S.A._

Made from thick sour milk in Pennsylvania in the style of the original Pennsylvania Dutch settlers.

Ballakäse or Womelsdorf

Similar to Ball.

Balls, Dutch Red

English name for Edam.

Banbury _England_

Soft, rich cylinder about one inch thick made in the town of Banbury, famous for its spicy, citrus-peel buns and its equestrienne. Banbury cheese with Banbury buns made a sensational snack in the early nineteenth century, but both are getting scarce today.

Banick _Armenia_

White and sweet.

Banjaluka _Bosnia_

Port-Salut type from its Trappist monastery.

Banon, or les Petits Banons _Provence, France,_

Small, dried, sheep-milker, made in the foothills of the Alps and exported through Marseilles in season, May to November. This sprightly summer cheese is generously sprinkled with the local brandy and festively wrapped in fresh green leaves.

Bar cheese _U.S.A._

Any saloon Cheddar, formerly served on every free-lunch counter in the U.S. Before Prohibition, free-lunch cheese was the backbone of America's cheese industry.

Barbacena _Minas Geraes, Brazil_

Hard, white, sometimes chalky. Named from its home city in the leading cheese state of Brazil.

Barberey, or Fromage de Troyes _Champagne, France_

Soft, creamy and smooth, resembling Camembert, five to six inches in diameter and 1-1/4 inches thick. Named from its home town, Barberey, near Troyes, whose name it also bears. Fresh, warm milk is coagulated by rennet in four hours. Uncut curd then goes into a wooden mold with a perforated bottom, to drain three hours, before being finished off in an earthenware mold. The cheeses are salted, dried and ripened three weeks in a cave. The season is from November to May and when made in summer they are often sold fresh.

Barboux _France_

Soft.

Baronet _U.S.A._

A natural product, mild and mellow.

Barron _France_

Soft.

Bassillac _see_ Bleu.

Bath _England_

Gently made, lightly salted, drained on a straw mat in the historic resort town of Bath. Ripened in two weeks and eaten only when covered with a refined fuzzy mold that's also eminently edible. It is the most delicate of English-speaking cheeses.

Battelmatt _Switzerland, St. Gothard Alps, northern Italy, and western Austria_

An Emmentaler made small where milk is not plentiful. The "wheel" is only sixteen inches in diameter and four inches high, weighing forty to eighty pounds. The cooking of the curd is done at a little lower temperature than Emmentaler, it ripens more rapidly--in four months --and is somewhat softer, but has the same holes and creamy though sharp, full nutty flavor.

Bauden (_see also_ Koppen) _Germany, Austria, Bohemia and Silesia_

Semisoft, sour milk, hand type, made in herders' mountain huts in about the same way as Harzkäse, though it is bigger. In two forms, one cup shape (called Koppen), the other a cylinder. Strong and aromatic, whether made with or without caraway.

Bavarian Beer cheese _see_ Bayrischer Bierkäse.

Bavarian Cream _German_

Very soft; smooth and creamy. Made in the Bavarian mountains. Especially good with sweet wines and sweet sauces.

Bavarois à la Vanille _see_ Fromage Bavarois.

Bayonne _see_ Fromage de Bayonne.

Bayrischer Bierkäse _Bavaria_

Bavarian beer cheese from the Tyrol is made not only to eat with beer, but to dunk in it.

Beads of cheese _Tibet_

Beads of hard cheese, two inches in diameter, are strung like a necklace of cowrie shells or a rosary, fifty to a hundred on a string. _Also see_ Money Made of Cheese.

Beagues _see_ Tome de Savoie.

Bean Cake, Tao-foo, or Tofu _China, Japan, the Orient_

Soy bean cheese imported from Shanghai and other oriental ports, and also imitated in every Chinatown around the world. Made from the milk of beans and curdled with its own vegetable rennet.

Beaujolais _see_ Chevretons.

Beaumont, or Tome de Beaumont _Savoy, France_

A more or less successful imitation of Trappist Tamie, a trade-secret triumph of Savoy. At its best from October to June.

Beaupré de Roybon _Dauphiné, France_

A winter specialty made from November to April.

Beckenried _Switzerland_

A good mountain cheese from goat milk.

Beer cheese _U.S.A._

While our beer cheese came from Germany and the word is merely a translation of Bierkäse, we use it chiefly for a type of strong Limburger made mostly in Milwaukee. This fine, aromatic cheese is considered by many as the very best to eat while drinking beer. But in Germany Bierkäse is more apt to be dissolved in a glass or stein of beer, much as we mix malted powder in milk, and drunk with it, rather than eaten.

Beer-Regis _Dorsetshire, England_

This sounds like another beer cheese, but it's only a mild Cheddar named after its hometown in Dorsetshire.

Beist-Cheese _Scotland_

A curiosity of the old days. "The first milk after a calving, boiled or baked to a thick consistency, the result somewhat resembling new-made cheese, though this is clearly not a true cheese." (MacNeill)

Belarno _Italy_

Hard; goat; creamy dessert cheese.

Belgian Cooked _Belgium_

The milk, which has been allowed to curdle spontaneously, is skimmed and allowed to drain. When dry it is thoroughly kneaded by hand and is allowed to undergo fermentation, which takes ordinarily from ten to fourteen days in winter and six to eight days in summer. When the fermentation is complete, cream and salt are added and the mixture is heated slowly and stirred until homogeneous, when it is put into molds and allowed to ripen for eight days longer. A cheese ordinarily weighs about three-and-a-half pounds. It is not essentially different from other forms of cooked cheese.

Beli Sir _see_ Domaci.

Bellelay, Tête de Moine, or Monk's Head _Switzerland_

Soft, buttery, semisharp spread. Sweet milk is coagulated with rennet in twenty to thirty minutes, the curd cut fairly fine and cooked not so firm as Emmentaler, but firmer than Limburger. After being pressed, the cheeses are wrapped in bark for a couple of weeks until they can stand alone. Since no eyes are desired in the cheeses, they are ripened in a moist cellar at a lowish temperature. They take a year to ripen and will keep three or four years. The diameter is seven inches, the weight nine to fifteen pounds. The monk's head after cutting is kept wrapped in a napkin soaked in white wine and the soft, creamy spread is scraped out to "butter" bread and snacks that go with more white wine. Such combinations of old wine and old cheese suggest monkish influence, which began here in the fifteenth century with the jolly friars of the Canton of Bern. There it is still made exclusively and not exported, for there's never quite enough to go around.

Bel Paese _Italy_

_See under_ Foreign Greats, Chapter 3. _Also see_ Mel Fino, a blend, and Bel Paese types--French Boudanne and German Saint Stefano. The American imitation is not nearly so good as the Italian original.

Bel Paesino _U.S.A._

A play on the Bel Paese name and fame. Weight one pound and diminutive in every other way.

Bergkäse _see_ Allgäuer.

Bergquara _Sweden_

Semihard, fat, resembles Dutch Gouda. Tangy, pleasant taste. Gets sharper with age, as they all do. Molded in cylinders of fifteen to forty pounds. Popular in Sweden since the eighteenth century.

Berkeley _England_

Named after its home town in Gloucester, England.

Berliner Kuhkäse _Berlin, Germany_

Cow cheese, pet-named turkey cock cheese by Berlin students. Typical German hand cheese, soft; aromatic with caraway seeds, and that's about the only difference between it and Alt Kuhkäse, without caraway.

Bernarde, Formagelle Bernarde _Italy_

Cow's whole milk, to which about 10% of goat's milk is added for flavor. Cured for two months.

Berques _France_

Made of skim milk.

Berry Rennet _see_ Withania.

Bessay, le _Bourbonnais, France_

Soft, mild, and creamy.

Bexhill _England_

Cream cheeses, small, flat, round. Excellent munching.

Bierkäse _Germany_

There are several of these unique beer cheeses that are actually dissolved in a stein of beer and drunk down with it in the Bierstubes, notably Bayrischer, Dresdener, and Olmützer. Semisoft; aromatic; sharp. Well imitated in _echt Deutsche_ American spots such as Milwaukee and Hoboken.

Bifrost _Norway_

Goat; white; mildly salt. Imitated in a process spread in 4-1/4-ounce package.

Binn _Wallis, Switzerland_

Exceptionally fine Swiss from the great cheese canton of Wallis.

Bitto _Northern Italy_

Hard Emmentaler type made in the Valtellina. It is really two cheeses in one. When eaten fresh, it is smooth, sapid, big-eyed Swiss. When eaten after two years of ripening, it is very hard and sharp and has small eyes.

Blanc à la crème _see_ Fromage Blanc.

Blanc _see_ Fromage Blanc I and II.

Bleu _France_

Brittle; blue-veined; smooth; biting.

Bleu d'Auvergne or Fromage Bleu _Auvergne, France_

Hard; sheep or mixed sheep, goat or cow; from Pontgibaud and Laqueuille ripening caves. Similar to better-known Cantal of the same province. Akin to Roquefort and Stilton, and to Bleu de Laqueuille.

Bleu de Bassillac _Limousin, France_

Blue mold of Roquefort type that's prime from November to May.

Bleu de Laqueuille _France_

Similar to Bleu d'Auvergne, but with a different savor. Named for its originator, Antoine Roussel-Laqueuille, who first made it a century ago, in 1854.

Bleu de Limousin, Fromage _Lower Limousin_

Practically the same as Bleu de Bassillac, from Lower Limousin.

Bleu de Salers _France_

A variety of Bleu d'Auvergne from the same province distinguished for its blues that are green. With the majority, this is at its best only in the winter months, from November to May.

Bleu, Fromage _see_ Bleu d'Auvergne.

Bleu-Olivet _see_ Olivet.

Blind

The name for cheeses lacking the usual holes of the type they belong to, such as blind Swiss.

Block Edam _U.S.A._

U.S. imitation of the classical Dutch cheese named after the town of Edam.

Block, Smoked _Austria_

The name is self-explanatory and suggests a well-colored meerschaum.

Bloder, or Schlicker Milch _Switzerland_

Sour-milker.

Blue Cheddar _see_ Cheshire-Stilton.

Blue, Danish _see_ Danish Blue.

Blue Dorset _see_ Dorset.

Blue, Jura _see_ Jura Bleu and Septmoncel.

Blue, and Blue with Port Links _U.S.A._

One of the modern American process sausages.

Blue, Minnesota _see_ Minnesota.

Blue Moon _U.S.A._

A process product.

Blue Vinny, Blue Vinid, Blue-veined Dorset, or Double Dorset _Dorsetshire, England_

A unique Blue that actually isn't green-veined. Farmers make it for private consumption, because it dries up too easily to market. An epicurean esoteric match for Truckles No. 1 of Wiltshire. It comes in a flat form, chalk-white, crumbly and sharply flavored, with a "royal Blue" vein running right through horizontally. The Vinny mold, from which it was named, is different from all other cheese molds and has a different action.

Bocconi Geganti _Italy_

Sharp and smoky specialty.

Bocconi Provoloni _see_ Provolone.

Boîte _see_ Fromage de Boîte.

Bombay _India_

Hard; goat; dry; sharp. Good to crunch with a Bombay Duck in place of a cracker.

Bondes _see_ Bondon de Neufchâtel.

Bondon de Neufchâtel, or Bondes _Normandy, France_

Nicknamed _Bonde à tout bien_, from resemblance to the bung in a barrel of Neuchâtel wine. Soft, small loaf rolls, fresh and mild. Similar to Gournay, but sweeter because of 2% added sugar.

Bondon de Rouen _France_

A fresh Neufchâtel, similar to Petit Suisse, but slightly salted, to last up to ten days.

Bondost _Sweden_

When caraway seed is added this is called Kommenost, spelled Kuminost in Norway.

Bond Ost _U.S.A._

Imitation of Scandinavian cheese, with small production in Wisconsin.

Bon Larron _France_

Romantically named "the penitent thief."

Borden's _U.S.A._

A full line of processed and naturals, of which Liederkranz is the leader.

Borelli _Italy_

A small water-buffalo cheese.

Bossons Maceres _Provence, France_

A winter product, December, January, February and March only.

Boudanne _France_

Whole or skimmed cow's milk, ripens in two to three months.

Boudes, Boudon _Normandy, France_

Soft, fresh, smooth, creamy, mild child of the Neufchâtel family.

Bougon Lamothe _see_ Lamothe.

Bouillé, la _Normandy France_

One of this most prolific province's thirty different notables. In season October to May.

Boule de Lille _France_

Name given to Belgian Oude Kaas by the French who enjoy it.

Boulette d'Avesnes, or Boulette de Cambrai _Flanders, France_

Made from November to May, eaten all year.

Bourgain _France_

Type of fresh Neufchâtel made in France. Perishable and consumed locally.

Bourgognes _see_ Petits Bourgognes.

Box _Württemberg, Germany_

Similar to U.S. Brick. It comes in two styles; firm, and soft:

I. Also known as Schachtelkäse, Boxed Cheese; and Hohenheim, where it is made. A rather unimportant variety. Made in a copper kettle, with partially skim milk, colored with saffron and spiked with caraway, a handful to every two hundred pounds. Salted and ripened for three months and shipped in wooden boxes.

II. Also known by names of localities where made: Hohenburg, Mondess and Weihenstephan. Made of whole milk. Mild but piquant.

Bra No. I _Piedmont, Italy_

Hard, round form, twelve inches in diameter, three inches high, weight twelve pounds. A somewhat romantic cheese, made by nomads who wander with their herds from pasture to pasture in the region of Bra.

Bra No. II _Turin and Cuneo, Italy_

Soft, creamy, small, round and mild although cured in brine.

Brand or Brandkäse _Germany_

Soft, sour-milk hand cheese, weighing one-third of a pound. The curd is cooked at a high temperature, then salted and set to ferment for a day. Butter is then mixed into it before pressing into small bricks. After drying it is put in used beer kegs to ripen and is frequently moistened with beer while curing.

Brandy _see_ Caledonian, Cream.

Branja de Brailia _Rumania_

Hard; sheep; extra salty because always kept in brine.

Branja de Cosulet _Rumania_

Described by Richard Wyndham in _Wine and Food_ (Winter, 1937): A creamy sheep's cheese which is encased in pine bark. My only criticism of this most excellent cheese is that the center must always remain a gastronomical second best. It is no more interesting than a good English Cheddar, while the outer crust has a scented, resinous flavor which must be unique among cheeses.

Bratkäse _Switzerland_

Strong; specially made to roast in slices over coal. Fine, grilled on toast.

Breakfast, Frühstück, Lunch, Delikat, and other names _Germany_

Soft and delicate, but with a strong tang. Small round, for spreading. Lauterbach is a well-known breakfast cheese in Germany, while in Switzerland Emmentaler is eaten at all three meals.

Breakstone _U.S.A._

Like Borden and other leading American cheesemongers and manufacturers, Breakstone offer a full line, of which their cream cheese is an American product to be proud of.

Brésegaut _Savoy, France_

Soft, white.

Breslau _Germany_

A proud Prussian dessert cheese.

Bressans _see_ les Petits.

Bresse _France_

Lightly cooked.

Bretagne _see_ Montauban.

Brevine _Switzerland_

Emmentaler type.

Briançon _see_ Alpin.

Brick _see_ Chapter 4.

Brickbat _Wiltshire, England_

A traditional Wiltshire product since early in the eighteenth century. Made with fresh milk and some cream, to ripen for one year before "it's fit to eat." The French call it Briqueton.

Bricotta _Corsica_

Semisoft, sour sheep, sometimes mixed with sugar and rum and made into small luscious cakes.

Brie _see_ Chapter 3; _also see_ Cendré and Coulommiers.

Brie Façon _France_

The name of imitation Brie or Brie type made in all parts of France. Often it is dry, chalky, and far inferior to the finest Brie _véritable_ that is still made best in its original home, formerly called La Brie, now Seine et Marne, or Ile-de-France.

_see_ Nivernais Decize, Le Mont d'Or, and Ile-de-France.

Brie de Meaux _France_

This genuine Brie from the Meaux region has an excellent reputation for high quality. It is made only from November to May.

Brie de Melun _France_

This Brie _véritable_ is made not only in the seasonal months, from November to May, but practically all the year around. It is not always prime. Summer Brie, called Maigre, is notably poor and thin. Spring Brie is merely Migras, half-fat, as against the fat autumn Gras that ripens until May.

Brillat-Savarin _Normandy, France_

Soft, and available all year. Although the author of _Physiologie du Goût_ was not noted as a caseophile and wrote little on the subject beyond _Le Fondue_ (_see_ Chapter 6), this savory Normandy produce is named in his everlasting praise.

Brina Dubreala _Rumania_

Semisoft, sheep, done in brine.

Brindza _U.S.A._

Our imitation of this creamy sort of fresh, white Roquefort is as popular in foreign colonies in America as back in its Hungarian and Greek homelands. On New York's East Side several stores advertise "Brindza fresh daily," with an extra "d" crowded into the original Brinza.

Brine _see_ Italian Bra, Caucasian Ekiwani, Brina Dubreala, Briney.

Briney, or Brined _Syria_

Semisoft, salty, sharp. So-called from being processed in brine. Turkish Tullum Penney is of the same salt-soaked type.

Brinza, or Brinsen _Hungary, Rumania, Carpathian Mountains_

Goes by many local names: Altsohl, Klencz, Landoch, Liptauer, Neusohl, Siebenburgen and Zips. Soft, sheep milk or sheep and goat; crumbly, sharp and biting, but creamy. Made in small lots and cured in a tub with beech shavings. Ftinoporino is its opposite number in Macedonia.

Brioler _see_ Westphalia.

Briquebec _see_ Providence

Briqueton _England_

The French name for English Wiltshire Brickbat, one of the very few cheeses imported into France. Known in France in the eighteenth century, it may have influenced the making of Trappist Port-Salut at the Bricquebec Monastery in Manche.

Brittle _see_ Greek Cashera, Italian Ricotta, Turkish Rarush Durmar, and U.S. Hopi.

Brizecon _Savoy, France_

Imitation Reblochon made in the same Savoy province.

Broccio, or le Brocconis _Corsica, France_

Soft, sour sheep milk or goat, like Bricotta and a first cousin to Italian Chiavari. Cream white, slightly salty; eaten fresh in Paris, where it is as popular as on its home island. Sometimes salted and half-dried, or made into little cakes with rum and sugar. Made and eaten all year.

Broodkaas _Holland_

Hard, flat, nutty.

Brousses de la Vézubie, les _Nice, France_

Small; sheep; long narrow bar shape, served either with powdered sugar or salt, pepper and chopped chives. Made in Vézubie.

Brussels or Bruxelles _Belgium_

Soft, washed skim milk, fermented, semisharp, from Louvain and Hal districts.

Budapest _Hungary_

Soft, fresh, creamy and mellow, a favorite at home in Budapest and abroad in Vienna.

Buderich _Germany_

A specialty in Dusseldorf.

Bulle _Switzerland_

A Swiss-Gruyère.

Bundost _Sweden_

Semihard; mellow; tangy.

Burgundy _France_

Named after the province, not the wine, but they go wonderfully together.

Bushman _Australia_

Semihard; yellow; tangy.

Butter and Cheese _see_ Chapter 8.

"Butter," Serbian _see_ Kajmar.

Buttermilk _U.S. & Europe_

Resembles cottage cheese, but of finer grain.

C

Cabeçou, le _Auvergne, France_

Small; goat; from Maurs.

Cabrillon _Auvergne, France_

So much like the Cabreçon they might be called sister nannies under the rind.

Cachet d'Entrechaux, le, or Fromage Fort du Ventoux

_Provence Mountains, France_

Semihard; sheep; mixed with brandy, dry white wine and sundry seasonings. Well marinated and extremely strong. Season May to November.

Caciocavallo _Italy_

"Horse Cheese." The ubiquitous cheese of classical greats, imitated all around the world and back to Italy again. _See_ Chapter 3.

Caciocavallo Siciliano _Sicily, also in U.S.A._

Essentially a pressed Provolone. Usually from cow's whole milk, but sometimes from goat's milk or a mixture of the two. Weight between 17-1/2 and 26 pounds. Used for both table cheese and grating.

Cacio Fiore, or Caciotta _Italy_

Soft as butter; sheep; in four-pound square frames; sweetish; eaten fresh.

Cacio Pecorino Romano _see_ Pecorino.

Cacio Romano _see_ Chiavari.

Caerphilly _Wales and England--Devon, Dorset, Somerset & Wilshire_

Semihard; whole fresh milk; takes three weeks to ripen. Also sold "green," young and innocent, at the age of ten to eleven days when weighing about that many pounds. Since it has little keeping qualities it should be eaten quickly. Welsh miners eat a lot of it, think it specially suited to their needs, because it is easily digested and does not produce so much heat in the body as long-keeping cheeses.

Caillebottes (Curds) _France--Anjou, Poitou, Saintonge & Vendée_

Soft, creamy, sweetened fresh or sour milk clabbered with chardonnette, wild artichoke seed, over slow fire. Cut in lozenges and served cold not two hours after cooking. Smooth, mellow and aromatic. A high type of this unusual cheese is Jonchée (_see_). Other cheeses are made with vegetable rennet, some from similar thistle or cardoon juice, especially in Portugal.

Caille de Poitiers _see_ Petits pots.

Caille de Habas _Gascony, France_

Clabbered or clotted sheep milk.

Cajassou _Périgord, France_

A notable goat cheese made in Cubjac.

Calabrian _Italy_

The Calabrians make good sheep cheese, such as this and Caciocavallo.

Calcagno _Sicily_

Hard; ewe's milk. Suitable for grating.

Caledonian Cream _Scotland_

More of a dessert than a true cheese. We read in _Scotland's Inner Man_: "A sort of fresh cream cheese, flavored with chopped orange marmalade, sugar brandy and lemon juice. It is whisked for about half an hour. Otherwise, if put into a freezer, it would be good ice-pudding."

Calvados _France_

Medium-hard; tangy. Perfect with Calvados applejack from the same province.

Calvenzano _Italy_

Similar to Gorgonzola, made in Bergamo.

Cambrai _see_ Boulette.

Cambridge, or York _England_

Soft; fresh; creamy; tangy. The curd is quickly made in one hour and dipped into molds without cutting to ripen for eating in thirty hours.

Camembert _see_ Chapter 3.

"Camembert" _Germany, U.S. & elsewhere_

A West German imitation that comes in a cute little heart-shaped box which nevertheless doesn't make it any more like the Camembert _véritable_ of Normandy.

Camosun _U.S.A._

Semisoft; open-textured, resembling Monterey. Drained curd is pressed in hoops, cheese is salted in brine for thirty hours, then coated with paraffin and cured for one to three months in humid room at 50° to 60° F.

Canadian Club _see_ Cheddar Club.

Cancoillotte, Cancaillotte, Canquoillotte, Quincoillotte, Cancoiade, Fromagère, Tempête and "Purée" de fromage tres fort _Franche-Comté, France_

Soft; sour milk; sharp and aromatic; with added eggs and butter and sometimes brandy or dry white wine. Sold in attractive small molds and pots. Other sharp seasonings besides the brandy or wine make this one of the strongest of French strong cheeses, similar to Fromage Fort.

Canestrato _Sicily, Italy_

Hard; mixed goat and sheep; yellow and strong. Takes one year to mature and is very popular both in Sicily where it is made to perfection and in Southern Colorado where it is imitated by and for Italian settlers.

Cantal, Fromage de Cantal, Auvergne or Auvergne Bleu; also Fourme and La Tome. _Auvergne, France_

Semihard; smooth; mellow; a kind of Cheddar, lightly colored lemon; yellow; strong, sharp taste but hardly any smell. Forty to a hundred-twenty pound cylinders. The rich milk from highland pastures is more or less skimmed and, being a very old variety, it is still made most primitively. Cured six weeks or six months, and when very old it's very hard and very sharp. A Cantal type is Laguiole or Guiole.

Capitanata _Italy_

Sheep.

Caprian _Capri, Italy_

Made from milk of goats that still overrun the original Goat Island, and tangy as a buck.

Caprino (Little Goat) _Argentina_

Semihard; goat; sharp; table cheese.

Caraway Loaf _U.S.A._