Chapter VI: Appendix: The A-B-Z of Cheese (6)

This is just one imitation of dozens of German caraway-seeded cheeses that roam the world. In Germany there is not only Kümmel loaf cheese but a loaf of caraway-seeded bread to go with it. Milwaukee has long made a good Kümmelkäse or hand cheese and it would take more than the fingers on both hands to enumerate all of the European originals, from Dutch Komynkaas through Danish King Christian IX and Norwegian Kuminost, Italian Freisa, Pomeranian Rinnen and Belgian Leyden, to Pennsylvania Pot.

Cardiga, Queijo da _Portugal_

Hard; sheep; oily; mild flavor. Named from cardo, cardoon in English, a kind of thistle used as a vegetable rennet in making several other cheeses, such as French Caillebottes curdled with chardonnette, wild artichoke seed. Only classical Greek sheep cheeses like Casera can compare with the superb ones from the Portuguese mountain districts. They are lusciously oily, but never rancidly so.

Carlsbad _Bohemia_

Semihard; sheep; white; slightly salted; expensive.

Carré Affiné _France_

Soft, delicate, in small square forms; similar to Petit Carré and Ancien Impérial (_see_).

Carré de l'Est _France_

Similar to Camembert, and imitated in the U.S.A.

Cascaval Penir _Turkey_

Cacciocavallo imitation consumed at home.

Caseralla _Greece_

Semisoft; sheep; mellow; creamy.

Casere _Greece_

Hard; sheep; brittle; gray and greasy. But wonderful! Sour-sweet tongue tickle. This classical though greasy Grecian is imitated with goat milk instead of sheep in Southern California.

Cashera _Armenia and Greece_

Hard; goat or cow's milk; brittle; sharp; nutty. Similar to Casere and high in quality.

Cashera _Turkey_

Semihard; sheep.

Casher Penner _see_ Kasher.

Cashkavallo _Syria_

Mellow but sharp imitation of the ubiquitous Italian Cacciocavallo.

Casigiolu, Panedda, Pera di vacca _Sardinia_

Plastic-curd cheese, made by the Caciocavallo method.

Caskcaval or Kaschcavallo _see_ Feta.

Caspian _Caucasus_

Semihard. Sheep or cow, milked directly into cone-shaped cloth bag to speed the making. Tastes tangy, sharp and biting.

Cassaro _Italy_

Locally consumed, seldom exported.

Castelmagno _Italy_

Blue-mold, Gorgonzola type.

Castelo Branco, White Castle _Portugal_

Semisoft; goat or goat and sheep; fermented. Similar to Serra da Estrella (_see_).

Castillon, or Fromage de Gascony _France_

Fresh cream cheese.

Castle, Schlosskäse _North Austria_

Limburger type.

Catanzaro _Italy_

Consumed locally, seldom exported.

Cat's Head _see_ Katzenkopf.

Celery _Norway_

Flavored mildly with celery seeds, instead of the usual caraway.

Cendrée, la _France--Orléanais, Blois & Aube_

Hard; sheep; round and flat. Other Cendrées are Champenois or Ricey, Brie, d'Aizy and Olivet

Cendré d'Aizy _Burgundy, France_

Available all year. _See_ la Cendrée.

Cendré de la Brie _Ile-de-France, France_

Fall and winter Brie cured under the ashes, season September to May.

Cendré Champenois or Cendré des Riceys _Aube & Marne, France_

Made and eaten from September to June, and ripened under the ashes.

Cendré Olivet _see_ Olivet.

Cenis _see_ Mont Cenis.

Certoso Stracchino _Italy, near Milan_

A variety of Stracchino named after the Carthusian friars who have made it for donkey's years. It is milder and softer and creamier than the Taleggio because it's made of cow instead of goat milk, but it has less distinction for the same reason.

Ceva _Italy_

Soft veteran of Roman times named from its town near Turin.

Chabichou _Poitou, France_

Soft; goat; fresh; sweet and tasty. A vintage cheese of the months from April to December, since such cheeses don't last long enough to be vintaged like wine by the year.

Chaingy _Orléans, France_

Season September to June.

Cham _Switzerland_

One of those eminent Emmentalers from Cham, the home town of Mister Pfister (_see_ Pfister).

Chamois milk

Aristotle said that the most savorous cheese came from the chamois. This small goatlike antelope feeds on wild mountain herbs not available to lumbering cows, less agile sheep or domesticated mountain goats, so it gives, in small quantity but high quality, the richest, most flavorsome of milk.

Champenois or Fromage des Riceys _Aube & Marne, France_

Season from September to June. The same as Cendré Champenois and des Riceys.

Champoléon de Queyras _Hautes-Alpes, France_.

Hard; skim-milker.

Chantelle _U.S.A._

Natural Port du Salut type described as "zesty" by some of the best purveyors of domestic cheeses. It has a sharp taste and little odor, perhaps to fill the demand for a "married man's Limburger."

Chantilly _see_ Hablé.

Chaource _Champagne, France_

Soft, nice to nibble with the bottled product of this same high-living Champagne Province. A kind of Camembert.

Chapelle _France_

Soft.

Charmey Fine _Switzerland_

Gruyère type.

Chaschol, or Chaschosis _Canton of Grisons, Switzerland_

Hard; skim; small wheels, eighteen to twenty-two inches in diameter by three to four inches high, weight twenty-two to forty pounds.

Chasteaux _see_ Petits Fromages.

Chateauroux _see_ Fromage de Chèvre.

Chaumont _Champagne, France_

Season November to May.

Chavignol _see_ Crottin.

Chechaluk _Armenia_

Soft; pot; flaky; creamy.

Cheddar _see_ Chapter 3.

Cheese bread _Russia and U.S.A._

For centuries Russia has excelled in making a salubrious cheese bread called Notruschki and the cheese that flavors it is Tworog. (_See both_.) Only recently Schrafft's in New York put out a yellow, soft and toothsome cheese bread that has become very popular for toasting. It takes heat to bring out its full cheesy savor. Good when overlaid with cheese butter of contrasting piquance, say one mixed with Sapsago.

Cheese butter

Equal parts of creamed butter and finely grated or soft cheese and mixtures thereof. The imported but still cheap green Sapsago is not to be forgotten when mixing your own cheese butter.

Cheese food _U.S.A._

"Any mixtures of various lots of cheese and other solids derived from milk with emulsifying agents, coloring matter, seasonings, condiments, relishes and water, heated or not, into a homogeneous mass." (A long and kind word for a homely, tasteless, heterogeneous mess.) From an advertisement.

Cheese hoppers _see_ Hoppers.

Cheese mites _see_ Mites.

Cheshire and Cheshire imitations _see_ with Cheddar in