Chapter III: The Pantry (2)

As soon after breakfast as she conveniently can, the mistress of a house should repair to the kitchen; which ought to be swept, the fire-place cleaned, tea-kettles, coffee-pots, and anything else used in preparing the breakfast, put in their appropriate places, and the cook ready to receive her orders for the day. Without being parsimonious, the mistress should see, with her own eyes, every morning, whatever cold meat, remains of pastry, bread, butter, &c., &c., there may be in the larder, that she may be able to judge of the additional provision required. Having done that, she should proceed to the store-room, to give the cook, the housemaid, and others, such stores as they may require for the day. This will occupy but very little time, if done regularly every morning; and having done this, she should proceed to make her purchases at once, lest visitors, or any accidental circumstance, cause her to be late in her marketing, and so derange the regularity of the dinner hour, the servants' work, &c., &c. Many ladies, in consequence of their own ill health, or that of their children, are compelled to employ their servants to market for them; but when they can avoid doing so it is better. I do not say this from a suspicion that either tradespeople or servants are always likely to take advantage of an opportunity to impose upon their customers or their employers, but because this important part of household management ought to be conducted by some one of the family, who must necessarily be more interested in it than servants can be. Besides, more judgment is required in marketing than all servants possess. A servant, for instance, is sent to a fishmonger's for a certain quantity of fish, and she obeys the order given her and brings home the fish, but at a higher price, perhaps, than her mistress expected. Now if the lady had gone herself, and found that the weather, or any other circumstance, had raised the price of fish for that day, she would probably have made a less expensive one suit her purpose, or turned to the Butcher or Poulterer to supply her table. {42}Also it is a hindrance to a servant to be sent here and there during the early part of the day, not to mention the benefit which the lady of the house would derive by being compelled to be out of doors, and in exercise, for even a short time, every day.

Although I like French cookery, I am not sufficiently acquainted with the interior of French kitchens to know whether we should improve in the fitting up of ours by imitating our neighbours. When I was abroad, and had opportunities of informing myself upon this subject, I had not the present work in contemplation. And though it is the object of travellers in general to inquire into almost every thing while passing through a foreign country, it happened once to me to meet with so much discouragement, when prying into the culinary department of a large Hotel in the south of France, that I hesitated to enter a foreign kitchen again. I was then on the way to Italy, and from what was afterwards told me respecting the kitchens of the latter country, I have reason to think that my resolution was not unwise, since, had it been overcome by fresh curiosity, I might have been induced to starve from too intimate knowledge of the mode in which the dishes of our table were prepared. We had, at the hotel I am speaking of, fared sumptuously for three days. There were, among other things, the finest poultry and the most delicate pastry imaginable. But some chicken broth was wanted for an invalid of our party, and the landlord suggested that if Mademoiselle would herself give directions to the cook, the broth might, perhaps, be the better made; and he went, accordingly, to announce my intended visit to the important person who commanded in the kitchen. Upon receiving intimation that all was ready, I descended, and was introduced to the said cook, who met me at the door of a large, lofty, vaulted apartment, the walls of which were black, not from any effect of antiquity, but from those of modern smoke, and decorated with a variety of copper utensils, all nearly as black on their outsides as the walls on which they hung. Of what hue their insides might be I did not ascertain; and, at the moment, my attention was suddenly diverted by the cook, who, begging me to be seated, placed a chair by the side of a large, wild-looking fire-place. I had not expected to see a tall, thin and bony, or a short and {43}fat woman, like the cook of an English kitchen; I imagined a man, somewhat advanced in age, and retaining some traces of the _ancien regime_, with large features and a small body, with grizzly and half-powdered hair, and, perhaps, a pigtail; at all events, with slippers down at heel, hands unclean, and a large snuff-box. It was, therefore, not without surprise that I found the very contrary of this in the personage who, dressed in a white apron, white sleeves, and white night cap of unexceptionable cleanness, and bowing with a grace that would have done credit to the most accomplished _petit maître_ of the last century, proceeded to relate how he had been instructed in the art of making chicken broth by an English _Miledi_, who in passing into Italy for the benefit of her health, had staid some weeks at the Hotel de l'Europe. His detail of the process of broth-making was minute, and no doubt scientific, but unhappily for the narrator, it was interrupted by his producing a delicate white fowl, which he without ceremony laid on the kitchen table, which stood in the middle of the room, and rivalled the very walls themselves in blackness. I was assured, by the first glance at this table, by reason of the fragments of fish, fowl, and pastry, strewed over it, that the same piece of furniture served every purpose of _chopping-block_ and _paste-board_. When, therefore, under these circumstances, I saw the preparation for the broth just going to commence, the exclamation of "Dirty pigs!" was making its way to my lips, and I, in order to avoid outraging the ears of French politeness, in the spot of all France most famous for the romantic, made the best of my way out of the kitchen, and endeavoured, when the next dinner-time arrived, to forget that I had ever seen it. Whenever afterwards the figure of this black table appeared to my fancy, like a spectre rising to warn me against tasteful and delicate looking _entremets_, I strove to forget the reality; but I never recovered the feeling of perfect security in what I was about to eat until the sea again rolled between me and the kitchen of the Hotel de l'Europe, and I again actually saw the clear bright fire, the whitened hearth, the yellow-ochred walls, the polished tins, the clean-scrubbed tables and chairs, and the white dresser cloths, of the kitchen, such as I had always been used to see at my own home.

{44}CHAPTER VI.

JOINTING, TRUSSING, AND CARVING.

Below will be found the figures of the five larger animals, followed by a reference to each, by which the reader, who is not already experienced, may observe the names of all the principal joints, as well as the part of the animal from which the joint is cut. No book that I am acquainted with, except that of MRS. RUNDELL, has taken any notice of this subject, though it is a matter of considerable importance, and one as to which many a young housekeeper often wishes for information.

_Venison._

1. Shoulder.
2. Neck.
3. Haunch.
4. Breast.
5. Scrag.

{45}_Beef._

1. Sirloin.
2. Rump.
3. Edge Bone.
4. Buttock.
5. Mouse Buttock.
6. Leg.
7. Thick Flank.
8. Veiny Piece.
9. Thin Flank.
10. Fore Rib: 7 Ribs.
11. Middle Rib: 4 Ribs.
12. Chuck Rib: 2 Ribs.
13. Brisket.
14. Shoulder, or Leg of Mutton Piece.
15. Clod.
16. Neck, or Sticking Piece.
17. Shin.
18. Cheek.

_Mutton._

1. Leg.
2. Shoulder.
3. Loin, Best End.
4. Loin, Chump End.
5. Neck, Best End.
6. Breast.
7. Neck, Scrag End.

_Note._ A Chine is two Loins; and a Saddle is two Loins, and two Necks of the Best End.

{46}_Veal._

1. Loin, Best End.
2. Fillet.
3. Loin, Chump End.
4. Hind Knuckle.
5. Neck, Best End.
6. Breast, Best End.
7. Blade Bone, or Oyster-part.
8. Fore Knuckle.
9. Breast, Brisket End.
10. Neck, Scrag End.

_Pork._

1. Leg.
2. Hind Loin.
3. Fore Loin.
4. Spare Rib.
5. Hand.
6. Belly or Spring.

{47}_Cod's Head._--FIG. 1.

_Cod's Head_ (_Fig. 1_) is a dish in carving which you have nothing to study beyond that preference for particular parts of the fish which some persons entertain. The solid parts are helped by cutting through with the fish trowel from _a_ to _b_ and from _c_ to _d_, and so on, from the jaw-bone to the further end of the shoulder. The _sound_ lies on the inside, and to obtain this, you must raise up the thin part of the fish, near the letter _e_.--This dish never looks so well as when served dry, and the fish on a napkin neatly folded, and garnished with sprigs of parsley.

_Haunch of Venison._--FIG. 2.

_Haunch of Venison_ is cut (as in _Fig. 2._) first in the line _a_ {48}to _b_. This first cut is the means of getting much of the gravy of the joint. Then turning the dish longwise towards him, the carver should put the knife in at _c_, and cut, as deep as the bone will allow, to _d_, and take out slices on either side of the line in this direction. The fat of venison becomes cold so very rapidly, that it is advisable, when convenient, to have some means of giving it renewed warmth after the joint comes to table. For this purpose, some use water plates, which have the effect of rendering the meat infinitely nicer than it would be in a half chilled state.

_Haunch of Mutton_ is carved in the same way as _Venison_.

_Saddle of Mutton._--FIG. 3.

_Saddle of Mutton._ This is prepared for roasting as in _Fig. 3_, the _tail_ being split in two, each half twisted back, and skewered, with one of the kidneys enclosed. You carve this by cutting, in straight lines, on each side of the backbone, as from _a_ to_ b_, from _c_ to _d_. If the saddle be a fine one, there will be fat on every part of it; but there is always more on the sides (_ee_) than in the centre.

{49}_Edge Bone of Beef._--FIG. 4.

_Edge Bone of Beef_, like the Round of Beef, is easily carved. But care should be taken, with both of these, to carve neatly; for if the meat be cut in thick slices or in pieces of awkward shape, the effect will be both to cause waste and to render the dish, while it lasts, uninviting. Cut slices, as thin as you please, from _a_ to _b_ (_Fig. 4_). The best part of the fat will be found on one side of the meat, from about _c_ to _d_. The most delicate is at _c_.

_Fore Quarter of Lamb._--FIG. 5.

_Fore Quarter of Lamb_ is first to be cut so as to divide the _shoulder_ from the rest of the quarter, which is called {50}the _target_. For this purpose, put the fork firmly into the shoulder joint, and then cut underneath the blade-bone beginning at _a_ (_Fig. 5_), and continue all round in the direction of a circular line, and pretty close to the under part of the blade-bone. Some people like to cut the shoulder large, while others take off no more meat with it than is barely necessary to remove the blade-bone. It is most convenient to place the shoulder on a separate dish. This is carved in the same way as the shoulder of mutton. (See _Fig. 7_.) When the shoulder is removed, a lemon may be squeezed over that part of the remainder of the joint where the knife had passed: this gives a flavour to the meat which is generally approved.--Then, proceed to cut completely through from _b_ to _c_, following the line across the bones as cracked by the butcher; and this will divide the ribs (_d_) from the brisket (_e_). Tastes vary in giving preference to the ribs or to the brisket.

_Leg of Mutton._--FIG. 6.

_Leg of Mutton_, either boiled or roasted, is carved as in _Fig. 6_. You begin, by taking slices from the most meaty part, which is done by making cuts straight across the joint, and quite down to the bone (_a_, _b_), and thus continuing on towards the thick end, till you come to _c_, the _cramp-bone_ (or, as some call it, the _edge-bone_). Some {51}mutton is superfluously fat on every part of the leg. The most delicate fat, however, is always that which is attached to the outside, about the thick end. After cutting as above directed, turn the joint over, and cut longwise the leg, as with a haunch of venison (see _Fig. 1_). Some people like the _knuckle_, that part which lies to the right of _b_, though this is always the driest and the leanest. A few nice slices may be taken at _d_, by cutting across that end: these are not juicy, but the grain of the meat is fine; and here there is also some nice fat.

_Shoulder of Mutton._--FIG. 7.

_Shoulder of Mutton._--Cut first from _a_ to _b_ (_Fig. 7_) as deep as the bone will permit, and take out slices on each side of this line. Then cut in a line with and on both sides of the ridges of the blade-bone, which will be found running in the direction _c_ to _d_. The meat of this part is some of the most delicate, but there is not much of it. You may get some nice slices between _e_ and _f_, though these will sometimes be very fat. Turn the joint over, and take slices from the flat surface of the under part: these are the coarsest, yet some think the best.--In small families it is sometimes the practice to cut the under side while hot; this leaves the joint better looking for the next day.

{52}_Ham._--FIG. 8.

_Ham_ is generally cut by making a deep incision across the top of it, as from _a_ to _b_, and down to the bone. Those who like the _knuckle_ end, which is the most lean and dry, may cut towards _c_; but the prime part of the ham is that between _a_ and the thick end. Some prefer carving hams with a more slanting cut, beginning in a direction as from _a_ to _c_, and so continuing throughout to the thick end. The slanting mode is, however, apt to be very wasteful, unless the carver be careful not to take away too much fat in proportion to the lean.

_Sucking Pig_ should always be cut up by the cook; at least, the principal parts should be divided before the dish is served. First, take off the _head_ immediately behind the ears: then cut the body in two, by carrying the knife quite through from the neck to the tail. The _legs_ and the _shoulders_ must next be removed from the sides, and each of them cut in two at their respective joints. The _sides_ may either be sent to table whole, or cut up: if the latter, separate the whole length of each side into three or four pieces. The _head_ should be split in two, and the lower jaws divided from the upper part of it; let the _ears_ be cut off. In serving, a neat cook will take care to arrange the different parts thus separated so that they may appear, upon the dish, as little uneven and confused as possible. The sides, whether whole or in several pieces, should be laid parallel with each other; the legs and {53}shoulders on the outer side of these, and opposite to the parts to which they have respectively belonged; and the portions of the head, and the ears, may be placed, some at one end, and some at the other end, or, as taste may suggest, at the sides of the dish.

_Hare, or Rabbit, for Roasting._--FIG. 9.

_Hare, or Rabbit, for Roasting_, is prepared for the spit as in _Fig. 9_.--To carve: begin by cutting through near to the back-bone, from _a_ to _b_; then make a corresponding cut on the other side of the back-bone; leaving the _back_ and the _head_ in one distinct piece. Cut off the _legs_ at the hip joint (_e_), and take off the _wing_ nearly as you would the wing of a bird, carrying the knife round the circular line (_c_). The _ribs_ are of little importance, as they are bare of meat. Divide the _back_ into three or four portions, as pointed out by the letters _f g h_. The _head_ is then to be cut off, and the lower jaws divided from the upper. By splitting the upper part of the head in the middle you have the _brains_, which are prized by epicures. The comparative goodness of different parts of a hare, will depend much on the age, and also upon the cooking. The back and the legs are always the best. The wing of a young hare is nice; but this is not so good in an old one, and particularly if it be not thoroughly well done. The carving of a _rabbit_ is pretty much the same as that of a hare: there is much less difficulty, however, with the former; and it would always save a good deal of trouble, as well as delay, if hares which are not quite young were sent to table already cut up.

{54}_Rabbit, for Boiling._--FIG. 10.

_Rabbit, for Boiling_, should be trussed, according to the newest fashion, as in _Fig. 10_. Cut off the _ears_ close to the head, and cut off the _feet_ at the foot-joint. Cut off the _tail_. Then make an incision on each side of the backbone, at the _rump-end_, about an inch and a half long. This will enable you to stretch the legs further towards the head. Bring the _wings_ as close to the body as you can, and bring the legs close to the outside of the wings. The _head_ should be bent round to one side, in order that, by running one skewer through the legs, wings and mouth, you may thus secure all and have the rabbit completely and compactly trussed.

_Turkey, for Roasting._--FIG. 11.

_Turkey for Roasting_, is sometimes trussed with the _feet_ on; and it is sometimes brought to table with the _head_ as {55}well as the feet. But such trussing is exceedingly ugly, and altogether unworthy of a good cook. The manner here described (see _Fig. 11_) is the most approved. If the breast-bone be sharp, it should be beaten down, to make the bird appear as plump as possible.--See _Carving_, in observations on _Fig. 15_.

_Goose._--FIG. 12.

_Goose._--For Carving, see observations on _Fig. 15_.

_Fowls, for Roasting._

_Fowls, for Roasting._--The most modern way of trussing these is as in _Figs. 13_ and _14_. If it be but a chicken, or a small fowl, a single skewer through the wings, and the legs simply tied, as in _Fig. 14_, will be sufficient. But a large fowl is best kept in shape by the other method (_Fig. 13_).--See _Carving_, in observations on _Fig. 15_.

{56}_Turkey or Fowl for Boiling._--FIG. 15.

_Turkey or Fowl, for Boiling._--For boiling, turkeys and fowls should, according to the newest fashion, both be trussed in the same way. There is nothing peculiar in this way, excepting as to the legs, which are to be trussed _within the apron_. To do this, the cook must first cut off the feet, and then, putting her fingers into the inside of the fowl, separate the skin of the leg from the flesh, all the way to the extreme joint. The leg, being drawn back, will thus remain, as it were, in a bag, within the apron; and, if this be properly done, there need be no other break in the skin than what has been occasioned at the joint by cutting the feet. If it be a turkey, or a large fowl, the form may be better preserved, by putting a skewer through the legs as well as through the wings (_see Fig. 15_). But with small fowls there needs no skewer for the legs. All skewers used in trussing should be taken out before the dish comes to table. To carve fowls, turkeys, &c., see _Fig. 15_. Begin by taking off the _wings_, cutting from _a_ to _b_, _c_ to _d_. Next the _legs_, putting your knife in at _f f_. Then, if it be a large bird, you will help slices from the breast (_e e_). But with the smaller birds, as chickens, partridges, &c., a considerable portion of the breast should come off with the wing, and then there is not enough left to spare any thing more from the breast-bone. _The merry-thought_, situated at the point of the breast-bone, is taken off by cutting straight across at _h h_. In helping, recollect that the _liver-wing_ is {57}commonly thought more of than the other. The _breast-bone_ is divided from the back by simply cutting through the ribs on each side of the fowl. The _neck-bones_ are at _g g_; but for these see _Fig. 16_, and the directions for carving the _back_.

_Back of a Fowl._--FIG. 16.

Rest your knife firmly on the centre of the back, at the same time turning either end up with your fork, and this part will easily break in two at _a b_. The _side-bones_ are at _c d_; and to remove these, some people put the point of the knife in at midway the line, just opposite to _c d_; others at the rump end of the bones _e f_. The _neck-bones_ (at _g h_) are the most difficult part of the task. These must be taken off before the breast is divided from the back; they adhere very closely, and require the knife to be held firmly on the body of the fowl, while the fork is employed to twist them off.

_Duck._--FIG. 17.

_Duck._--This should be trussed as in _Fig. 17_. The _leg_ is {58}twisted at the joint, and the _feet_ (with the _claws_ only cut off) are turned over, and so brought to lie flat on the rump.--For _Carving_, see observations on _Fig. 15_.

_Pheasant._--FIG. 18.

_Partridge._--FIG. 19.

_Pheasant and Partridge._--These two are trussed nearly in one way, as in _Figs. 18_ and _19_, excepting, that the _legs_ of the partridge are raised, and tied together over the apron, crossing each other. For _Carving_, see observations on _Fig. 15_.

{59}CHAPTER VII.

BOILING.

THERE is no branch of cookery which requires more nicety than plain boiling, though, from its simplicity, some cooks think it does not. They think that to put a piece of meat into water, and to make that boil for a given length of time, is all that is needful; but it is not so. To boil a leg of mutton, or a fowl, properly, requires as much care as to compound a made dish. Meat which is poor and tough cannot be made tender and fine flavoured by boiling; but that which was, to all appearance, very fine meat before it was put into the pot, has often been taken out really good for nothing. And many a Butcher and Poulterer have been blamed, when the fault was not theirs.

Meat should be put into cold water, enough to keep it _well_ covered. The longer in reason it is coming to a boil, the better, as a gradual heating produces tenderness, and causes a separation from the meat of the grosser particles, which rise in the shape of scum to the surface, and which should be carefully taken off. The finest leg of mutton must be disgusting, if garnished with flakes of black scum. Care should be taken to watch the first moment of the scum's appearing in order to remove it, and then, by throwing in a little salt, the remainder will be caused to rise; and if the fast boiling of the water render the scumming difficult, pour in a very little cold water. The practice of boiling meat, such as poultry, veal, and lamb, in floured cloths, to keep it white, must have been the invention of lazy cooks, if not of tasteless and extravagant housewives; for the meat is rendered less juicy, and the liquor in which it has been boiled, so good for broth or gravy, must be lost.

When the pot has been well scummed, and no more scum to be seen, set in such a situation on, or by, the fire, that it may continue to boil _gently_ and _regularly_, for the time required; and see that it do not stop boiling {60}altogether at one time, and then be hurried to a wallop at another time, for this dries up the juices, hardens the meat, and tears it. A kettle of boiling water should be at hand, in order to replenish the pot, as the quantity diminishes, taking heed not to exceed the original quantity, namely, enough to _cover_ the meat, for the less water, the better the broth will be.

Salted meat, if very salt, and all smoked meat, should be washed, and in some cases, _soaked_ before it is boiled. If too little salted, it must not be either washed or scraped, and may be put on to boil in water a little heated, because a slow process would help to freshen it.

No positive rule can be given for the time required to boil meat, any more than to roast, for much depends on its freshness, and a piece of _solid_ meat requires a longer time to boil than a joint of equal weight but of less thickness. Salted and smoked meat require longer boiling than fresh meat, veal longer than beef, mutton, or lamb; and pork, though ever so little salted, still longer than veal. A leg of mutton which has hung long will boil in less time than one which is quite or nearly fresh; but then the former ought not to be boiled at all, but roasted, for the fire takes away mustiness, and all the impurities with which the boiling water would only tend still more to impregnate the meat. A quarter of an hour, and a quart of water, to every pound of meat, is the rule of boiling, but practice must teach this, as well as many other important parts of culinary science. By a little care and attention, a cook will soon gain sufficient experience to preserve her from the risk of sending a joint to table too little, or too much done.

When meat is sufficiently boiled, take it up directly; and if it have to wait, stand it over the pot it was cooked in, to keep it hot; remaining in the water will sodden it.

The next thing for consideration, after that of cooking the meat properly, is the turning to account the liquor in which it is boiled. This, be the meat what it may, is good as a foundation for _Soups_ or _Gravies_ unless it be the liquor of ham or bacon, and that can only be used in small quantities, to flavour. The liquor of pork makes good pease soup. When such liquor is not wanted for the family, it may always, at a trifling expense, be converted {61}into wholesome and nourishing food for the poor. (_See cookery for the poor._)

_Round of Beef._

If too large a joint to dress whole, for a small family, or where cold meat is not liked, it may be cut into two or even three pieces, taking care to give to each piece a due portion of fat; skewer it up tightly, of a good shape, then bind it with strong coarse tape, or strips of linen. The vessel roomy, the beef placed on a fish drainer (as should all large joints), and care taken to keep it covered with water. Three hours for a piece of 12 lbs. About three hours and a half to 16 lbs., and so on, in proportion. Put in carrots and turnips two hours after the meat. See that there be no scum left on, before you send it to table. Garnish with sliced carrots, and serve mashed turnips or greens, in a separate dish. Also dumplings, if approved.

The whole round, if 30 lbs. weight, will require to boil five hours. But remember, that the _boiling_ should be only steady _simmering_. Place the vessel over the fire, that the water may come to a boil; then draw it to the side, and never let it cease to simmer. Have a kettle of boiling water by the side, to fill up with.

_Edge Bone of Beef._

One of 20 lbs. weight will require to boil three hours and a half. One of 10 lbs. weight will be done in two hours. The soft fat is best hot, the hard fat cold.

_Brisket of Beef._

This being a long, awkward joint, may be cut in two; it requires longer boiling than the edge bone; five hours not too much for a large piece. (See _Beef to Press._)

For _Bouilli_ and other ways of cooking beef, see the _Index_.

_Leg of Mutton._

This joint should be kept from two days to a week. Cut out the pipe, and carefully wipe the meat to clear it of all {62}mustiness. Chop but a very small piece off the shank. Boil carrots and turnips with it if you _like_, but the former will not improve the colour; and do not put them in before the pot has been carefully scummed. A leg of 9 lbs. will take three hours _slow_ boiling. Garnish with slices of carrot, or a rim of mashed turnip. Serve caper sauce in a boat. _Walnut_ also is good, in place of capers. If chickens or a fowl be wanted for the same dinner, they may boil in the same vessel with the mutton, but not with vegetables. The _broth_ will be better for this addition. If broth be wanted the same day, put into the water, as soon as it has been scummed, some barley or rice, and after it has boiled one hour and a half, lift out the mutton and place it by the fire, covered to keep warm; take the lid off the pot, and let it boil quickly till the liquor be reduced to the quantity you desire; put in turnips and carrots, in small pieces, a head of celery, and a little parsley; return the mutton, and boil it slowly half an hour.--A leg of mutton, if too large to cook at once, may be divided into two; roast the fillet and boil the shank. _Or_: you may take cutlets off the large end two days running, and then dress the shank.--Tongue is good with boiled mutton.

_Neck of Mutton._

Should be very much trimmed of its fat, and, if from 3 to 5 lbs. weight, boil _slowly_ two hours; it will likewise make very good broth, as the leg. Garnish and serve in the same way.--Some do not cut off any of the fat, until after it is cooked, then pare it off, and put it by: this, shred finely, makes light pudding crust.

_Leg of Lamb._

A delicate dish, if nicely boiled, served with parsley and butter, and garnished with sprigs of cauliflower, brocoli, or spinach. A dish of the latter should be served with it. (_See in the Index._) If small, the loin may be cut into steaks, fried, and placed round the leg, lightly garnished with crisped parsley; or they may be placed round mashed potatoes, in another dish. A leg of 5 lbs. should _simmer_ gently two hours, counting from the time it is first put on, in cold water.

{63}_Calf's Head._

Wash it well in several waters, and soak it in warm water for a quarter of an hour, but first take the brains out, and having well washed, let them soak in cold water with a little salt for an hour. _Half_ the head (without the skin), will require _gentle_ boiling two hours; with the skin, another hour. Put it on in cold water. Boil 8 or 10 sage leaves, and the same quantity in bulk of parsley, half an hour, then drain, chop very fine, and spread them on a plate. Scald and peel the skin off the brains, put them into a saucepan with plenty of cold water: when it boils, carefully scum it, and let it boil gently fifteen minutes; chop the brains, but not very fine, and put them into a small saucepan with the parsley and sage, also 2 table-spoonsful of thin melted butter, a little salt, and, if you like, cayenne and lemon juice. Take the tongue out of the head, trim off the roots, skin and place it in the middle of a dish, the brains round it. Pour parsley and butter over the head, garnish with broiled rashers of bacon. Serve ham, bacon, or pork, and greens. Save a quart of the liquor to make sauce for the hash (_which see_). A very good sauce for this, eaten in France, is as follows: 2 table-spoonsful of chopped eschalots, 1 of parsley, 1 of tarragon and chervil, 1 of salt, a little pepper, 6 table-spoonsful of salad oil, 1 of vinegar: mix well together and serve cold.

_Veal._

In some parts of England a boiled fillet is considered a delicacy. It should not be large. Stuff it the same as for roasting (_which see_), or with the forcemeat directed for boiled turkey. Serve white sauce, and garnish with slices of lemon and barberries.--The neck is good boiled, and eaten with parsley and butter.

_Pork._

This must be exceedingly well done. Wash and scrape a leg, and let it lie in cold water a quarter of an hour to whiten; put it on to boil in cold water; do not let it boil fast, because the knuckle will be broken to pieces, before the thick part of the meat is done. Be careful to {64}take off all the scum, and let a leg of 7 lbs. weight simmer three hours. If to eat cold, do not cut it in the middle, because that will allow too much gravy to be lost, but cut from the knuckle, and it will eat more tender. Peas pudding with leg of pork, also parsnips, carrots, turnips or greens, and mashed potatoes.

_Petit-Toes._

Put a thin slice of bacon at the bottom of a stew-pan, with a little broth or thin melted butter, a blade of mace, a few peppercorns, and a sprig of thyme; in this boil the feet, the heart, liver and lights, till tender; the three latter will be done first; take them out and mince them fine: put this mince and the feet into another saucepan with some good gravy thickened with butter rolled in flour, season with pepper, salt, and a small quantity of walnut and mushroom catsup; let it simmer five minutes. While this is cooking prepare some sippets of toasted bread, lay them round a dish, pour the mince and sauce into the middle, and having split the feet, lay them lightly on the top.--A little cream may be added. (_See to fry._)

_Poultry._

Be careful in picking, that the skin be not broken. Some cooks wash poultry, but if wiping will be sufficient, it is best not washed. Chickens and fowls will keep two or three days, except in very hot weather. A fowl put on in cold water, should simmer by the side of the fire, from twenty-five minutes to half an hour. Some cooks boil a little fresh suet sliced, and also slices of lemon peel, with fowl. Some boil them in milk and water. The water must be well scummed.

_Boiled Fowls_ with white sauce, or mushroom, oyster, celery, liver, or lemon sauce, or parsley and butter. A pretty remove of fish or soup, is, a small tongue in the centre, a boiled chicken on each side, and small heads of brocoli, with a few asparagus and French beans to fill the spaces. Serve any of the above sauces.--Always ham, bacon or tongue, and some sort of green vegetable, with fowl and turkey; chine with the latter. Garnish with slices of lemon.

{65}_Ducks._

Choose fine fat ones. Some persons salt them slightly, for two days, others boil them without. Smother them with onions, or serve onion sauce.

_Turkey._

Let it hang four days, and take care not to blacken it in singeing. It is usual to fill the crop of a turkey with forcemeat (_see forcemeats_), or with a stuffing of bread-crumbs, suet shred fine, a little parsley, thyme, and lemon peel, chopped fine, nutmeg, pepper, and salt, the whole mixed together by an egg. In America it is the practice to stuff turkeys with oysters chopped and mixed with bread-crumbs. About 4 would be sufficient. A large turkey, with the crop filled, requires two hours _slow_ boiling; not filled, half an hour less; and a small hen turkey an hour. Serve with oyster or celery sauce, and either chine, bacon or tongue. The forcemeat may be enriched by grated tongue or ham, chopped veal, an anchovy and a little bit of eschalot. (_See to hash, also grill._)

_Rabbits._

A full-sized one will boil in half an hour; an old one above an hour. Some use _milk_ and water. Serve with onion sauce poured over; or a sauce made of melted butter, and the livers, previously boiled, and minced small, with a little parsley. Lay slices of lemon round the dish. Ham or Bacon.

_Bacon_

Should be well washed and scraped, and old bacon soaked in cold water. After coming slowly to a boil, let a piece of 4 lbs. simmer by the fire two hours, if young and fresh cured, less time. Some cooks put fat bacon into hot water, and lean into cold. Take off the rind and set it before the fire to dry up the oozing fat. Strew bread-raspings over.

_Ham._

The main thing to be attended to is the previous soaking, and the requisite time must be left to the discretion of the cook, for, whereas one night would be sufficient for a small {66}and tender ham, if very old and dry, less than four days and four nights will scarcely be enough. The water should be changed every day, and the night before it is boiled, scrape well, pour warm water over it, and trim off all the rusty, ill-looking, bits, then lay it in the water again. Scum the pot, and let the ham _simmer from three to five_ hours, according to its weight. When done, take the skin off gently, and after covering the ham with bread-raspings, set it before the fire, to crisp it. Twist writing paper round the shank, and garnish with greens, or little heaps of bread-raspings. The liquor, if well scummed at first, may be strained or put by, and if you boil fowls or veal on the following day, you may put the two liquors together, boil them rapidly down; add pepper, mace, eschalot, and a faggot of herbs, and you will have a highly relishing gravy. Some persons contend that the practice of boiling a ham until half cooked, and then finishing by _baking_ it, improves the flavour. (_See to bake meat._)

_Tongue._

If you buy it salted, learn how long it has been in pickle, for according to that it must soak. If old and hard, twenty-four hours will not be too much. Have plenty of water, and let it be a full hour in coming to a boil; then _simmer gently_ for three hours; longer if very large. The root is an excellent ingredient for peas soup.

_Tripe._

Cut in cutlets, or not, as you choose, and simmer it in milk and water till quite tender. Peel and boil a dozen button onions, put the tripe in a deep dish with some of the sauce, and the onions on the top; or you may boil it in plain water. Mustard sauce is good.--As all persons would not choose onions, you may serve onion sauce as directed for rabbits (_which see_). Serve rashers of bacon, if approved.

_Cow-Heel._

When well boiled, cut into nice pieces, egg, bread crumb, and fry them of a light brown, and serve with fried onions or any piquant sauce. Is very good only boiled, and served with parsley and butter.

{67}CHAPTER VIII.

ROASTING.

FOR roasting, meat should be kept longer than for boiling, or it will not, though ever so good, eat well. The proper length of time depends upon the state of the weather, and the age of the animal when killed, for young meat bears keeping less time than old meat. Two days of hot weather will do as much to render meat fit for the spit, as a week of cold weather.

Next after the state of the meat, the thing of most consequence is preparing the fire, which ought to be made up (of the size required by the length and breadth of the joint) half an hour before the meat is put down. It should not at first be exposed to a fierce fire. Let there be a backing of wetted cinders or small coals: this tends to throw the heat in front; lay large coals on the top, smaller ones between the bars, give the fire time to draw, and it will be clear. Before you put down the meat, stir the fire, clear it at the bottom, and see that it be free from smoke in front.

Some cooks make a practice of washing meat, with salt and water, then wiping it dry, before it is roasted. Where there is mustiness, or slimy appearance, it should be wiped off with a wet cloth, otherwise much washing is neither necessary nor beneficial. See that it be properly jointed; if there be too much fat, cut it off (it is better for puddings, in the shape of suet, than dripping); cover the meat with kitchen paper, _tied_ on with twine, and not fastened by _pins_; see also, that the spit be bright and clean, and take care to run it through the meat, in the right place, at once, for the more the meat is perforated, the greater chance will be given for the escape of the gravy. Great nicety is required in spitting, that the joint may be accurately balanced. In the absence of spits and smoke-jacks, a bottle-jack, or a stout nail with a strong string or skein of worsted, will {68}dangle a joint, and if the fire be made proportionably high to the length of the joint, there is no better mode of roasting. A strong skewer must be run in, at each end of the joint, in order to turn it.

The larger the joint the greater distance it should, at first, be from the fire, that the outside may not be shrivelled up before the middle is warmed. A quarter of an hour to a pound of meat, is the rule for roasting, and it admits of the same exceptions as in the case of boiling, with this addition, that fat meat takes longer than lean meat, as do pork and veal longer than any other kind. Fillets and legs, on account of their solidness, longer than loins and breasts. Much depends upon the situation of the fire-place, and whether the joint be exposed to draughts of cold air, or whether it be preserved from them, and the fire assisted, by a meat screen. Where there is none, a contrivance must be resorted to, by way of substitute, such as small wooden horses, or chairs, with cloths hung over them; these will keep off the cold, but a meat screen, lined with tin, keeps in the heat, and acts as a reflector.--Twice, or if the roast be large, oftener, remove the pan, pour off the dripping (it ought to be strained), draw the spit to a distance, and stir the fire, bring forward the hot coals, and put fresh at the back. Be careful that cinders do not reach the dripping-pan, for the smoke which they cause to rise from the fat, gives a disagreeable flavour to the meat, besides the injury to the dripping. (_See Dripping._)--When the meat is nearly done, the steams will draw towards the fire; take the paper off, and move the joint nearer to the fire, particularly the ends, if they want more cooking; sprinkle salt lightly over the roast; then pour off all the remaining dripping, dredge flour _very lightly_ over the joint, and baste with a very little fresh butter, which will not injure the gravy in the pan, but give a delicate froth to the meat. To the gravy now flowing from the meat, the best addition is a teacupful of boiling water. (_See Gravies._)

With a clear strong fire (and meat cannot be well roasted without a strong fire), time allowed for gradual cooking, a cook may ensure for her roasts that fine pale brown colour, to produce which is esteemed one of the greatest proofs of a cook's skill.

{69}_Sirloin of Beef._

After reading the foregoing observations, the cook must gain, by observation and practice, that experience which will enable her to send this very best of joints to table, done enough, yet not overdone. A piece of 15 lbs. weight will require nearly four hours to cook it well: cover it with two half sheets of foolscap paper, and put it near to the fire for a few minutes; then rub it well over with butter, and draw it back to a distance (provided always that there is a very _good, steady_ fire); and in this case do not baste at all, but put some boiling water into the dripping-pan when you first put the meat down, and this, by the time the meat is done, will be good gravy, after you have poured the fat off. The older fashion is to baste with dripping as soon as you put it down, and continue the basting every quarter of an hour; but I think the other method gives the meat the most delicate taste and appearance. However, a cook should try both ways, and afterwards follow the one which best suits the taste of her employers.

The old fashion of Yorkshire pudding with roast beef is too good a one to be abandoned, though its substitute of potatoe pudding is not to be rejected. Garnish with finely scraped horseradish.--Where cold roast beef is not liked, or if too underdone to eat cold, slices may be gently simmered over the fire in gravy or broth, or a very little water, and a little pepper and salt, eschalot vinegar, or some sort of catsup. The sirloin always came to table whole in the house in which I was brought up; therefore, I am able to give instructions for cooking it. No spit will carry round a whole sirloin; it must be _dangled_, and one which weighs (after great part of the suet has been taken out) 40 lbs. will roast in five hours, for it is no thicker than a piece of 10 lbs. weight. The fire must be large and high, the heat, of course, very great. Many a cook's complexion, to say nothing of her temper, has suffered in the cause of our "noble sirloins." If the inside, or tender-loin, be taken out leaving all the fat to roast with the joint, this part may be cooked to resemble hare. For this purpose, spread some hare stuffing over the beef, roll that up tightly with tape, and tie it on the spit. Send this to table with the sauces for roast hare. When the whole joint is roasted, the inside {70}will be sufficiently underdone to make hashes. If only a part of the sirloin be cooked, the inside is best eaten hot, as it is not so good cold as the upper side.--Roast beef bones should be taken care of, for soup and gravy, and used before they become musty.

_Rump of Beef._

Roast in the same manner. _Half_ of this joint makes a nice family dish. Parboiled potatoes, browned in the dripping-pan are good.

_Ribs of Beef._

Roasted the same as the sirloin. But it requires to be basted. Is a better joint to eat cold than sirloin. 15 or 20 lbs. weight, three hours or more, according to the size. Paper the fat and the thin part. Another way is to take out the bones, lay the meat flat, and beat it with a rolling pin; soak it in two thirds of vinegar and one of water, or, better still, white wine in place of vinegar, a night; next day cover it with a rich forcemeat, of veal, suet, grated ham, lemon peel, and mixed spices. Roll it tightly up, fasten with small skewers and tape, and roast it, basting constantly with butter, and serve with venison sauce.--_Or:_ you may take out the bones, roll the meat up like a fillet of veal, lard it, then roast and serve with tomata sauce.

_Leg, Loin, Haunch, Saddle, and Shoulder of Mutton._

Cut out the pipe that runs along the back bone, wipe off all mustiness. Rather a _quick_ fire is required for mutton, particularly if it have been kept. Roast in the same manner as beef. Paper it, and baste every twenty minutes till the last half hour, when lightly sprinkle with salt, baste with _butter_, and dredge flour lightly over, and as soon as the froth rises, take it up. Onion, sweet sauce, or currant jelly, are eaten with mutton. Some think it an improvement to the _haunch_ and _saddle_ to take the skin off; to do this you must beat it well with a rolling pin, slip the skin with a sharp knife from the meat, and with a cloth pull it off nearly to the shank. Some put a thin paste over, as directed for venison, others paper only, and the latter is sufficient, if the cook baste enough, and do not let {71}it burn.--A good sauce for roast mutton is made by putting 2 glasses of port wine, 1 of Reading sauce, and a tea-spoonful of garlic vinegar into a small saucepan, and pouring the contents hot over the joint just before serving it.

_Haunch of Mutton._

_To dress as Venison._--Keep it as long as you can, then rub with the following, and let it lie in it, thirty-six hours. Mix 2 oz. of coarse sugar, 1 oz. of salt, and ½ oz. of saltpetre. A taste somewhat peculiar to our house, and of American growth, is stewed cranberries, as sauce with roast mutton, and I recommend the trial to all who can procure good cranberries. Tomata sauce is also good with roast mutton.

_Bullock's Heart._

Soak it well in lukewarm water to disgorge, dry and stuff the interior with a veal stuffing, and roast it two hours. _Calves'_ and _Sheep's_ heart the same.

_Tongue._

Stick a fresh tongue all over with cloves, roast it, baste with butter, and serve with port wine sauce, and currant jelly.

_Sucking Pig._