Chapter IV: Part 4

The original paper of which this is a translation was given to me by Pwan-Suy-Lan, with a small canister of this famous tea; but on asking him if he considered it to have been originally planted by 'Joss,' he answered, he thought not, but that 'he own come'--that is to say, 'it sprang from the ground spontaneously.' It was known that the senior Hong merchant received the greatest quantity of it. As with Pwan-Suy-Lan and Pwankeiqua, Houqua's family had long been tea planters in the Bohea Hills, and were so when they first came to Canton, soon after foreign trade was confined to that port (as he frequently observed to me), about the year 1750.

Well-to-do Chinese drink black tea, but not usually _new_ tea. They keep it in closely-shut earthen jars for a couple of years before using it. This moderates the acrid or pungent quality which new tea possesses more or less, and renders it softer and more acceptable to the taste.

* * * * *

As if to make all things work comfortably, the setting in of the south-west monsoon brought foreign ships to Whampoa to receive cargoes of teas, which were meanwhile arriving from the interior, from August to November; and the north-east monsoon, as the ships loaded and left the port in succession, blew them down again. The only exceptions were known as 'out-of-season ships,' of which there were rarely over two yearly. These came east about _viâ_ Gilolo or Dampier's Straits, and they took away the last teas of a season. An occasional ship, trusting to good weatherly qualities, would take the Palawan passage _late_ in the year, beat up under the coast of Luconia to Cape Boleno, and then stretch across the China Sea; but it was dangerous from its numerous shoals, and a vessel would be dreadfully knocked about, even if successful. About 1830 or 1831 a bold and successful attempt to set the north-east monsoon at defiance was made by the _first_ opium clipper. She was called the 'Red Rover,' and was commanded by Captain Clifton, owned at, and from Calcutta. It was considered a most extraordinary performance.

The earliest shipments of a season were made from Whampoa by the East India Company, in November usually. They consisted of contracts made at the end of the previous year. They could be seen in large quantities stored in the Hongs, waiting the first ships to come in. These teas were currently known as 'winter teas,' and went to keep up the quantity of one year's supply which the Company was bound by its Charter to keep on hand in London at all times. Continuous shipments followed, so that by the end of the year or a little later their vessels were all away. To the United States green teas were exported almost solely until about 1828, when the first blacks were shipped; after that date they became a feature in the trade. Contracts were made for the new season's teas, either at fixed prices, or, if it was an object to get a ship off quickly, then the prices were governed by those of the opening of the market. The 'opening' of the tea season was eagerly looked forward to; and such was the contrast between the busy and the dull season that during the former we were repeatedly in the offices until two o'clock in the morning. The seasons of 1830 to 1838 were particularly active ones, and besides business with India, England, and the West Coast of America, our own house had frequently at Whampoa at one time ten to fifteen ships (in the year 1833 twenty-two), every one loading teas and silks for the United States, and, after 1833, vessels loading for England as well. It was during one of these years--I think 1834--that we despatched the _first_ English vessel from Whampoa that had yet carried a full cargo of free teas to New South Wales; she was named the 'Royal Saxon,' and was commanded by Captain Robert Towns.

The final loading of a ship consisted of all sorts of odds and ends reserved for the last moment, and shipped off by what was called the 'chow-chow chop.' More valuable cargo, not ready in time for the regular cargo boats, could also be sent to Whampoa by this conveyance. It was a great convenience, while all other shipping off was conducted on the strictness of the laws of the Medes and Persians, with documents without flaw.

When the market had been cleared of teas, the vessels despatched and the business of the season over, contracts were made with the Hong merchants for the next season. These contracts were often of great pecuniary value. They consisted of teas of certain qualities and kinds, in packages of chests and half-chests, sometimes at fixed prices, at others at the opening prices after they should have arrived, and deliverable at the customary time. No other record of these contracts was ever made than by each party booking them. No written agreements were drawn up and signed, nothing was sealed or attested. A wilful breach of contract never took place, and as regards quantity and quality, the Hong merchants fulfilled their part with scrupulous honesty and care. I am speaking of the first twenty years of my own personal experience.

Entire cargoes of teas were purchased and shipped from a few small canister musters, and were weighed by taking the average of a few chests from each 'chop.' A 'chop' of tea was always an uncertain quantity, blacks numbering 400 to 600 chests, sometimes more or less, and greens from 120 to 200 chests. The chest contained originally 100 catties, or 133-1/3 pounds, the halves and quarters in the same proportion, while boxes were locally packed with canisters of various sizes. The inconvenience of these larger packages, both in size and weight, caused a reduction to be made in them gradually until the chest averaged about eighty catties. Some of the packages shipped at this time have completely disappeared, and we hear no longer of five and ten-catty boxes, nor of one, two, or three-pound canisters.

Valuable invoices of silk piece goods were bought and shipped from an examination of only a piece or two taken at random from any box we might choose to have opened. They consisted of satins, crapes, sinshews, levantines, black handkerchiefs, sarsnetts, lutstrings, and pongees, besides great quantities of yellow nankins, almost all of which articles have now ceased to be exported.

As a natural consequence of the integrity of the Chinese merchants, we had neither receipt nor check-book. Payments were made by the Compradore of large amounts on simple scraps of paper signed with the initials of a firm. No promissory notes existed, and consequently there was no 'bill book.' There was no post office, there were no postages, and no copying machines.

We had no custom-house business to attend to; our inward cargoes were landed and stored, and our outward ones shipped off, by the Linguists, to whom we had but to intimate in which Hong the former should be landed or the ship to which the latter were to be sent. All merchandise was purchased at long price, and all sold at short price; this was the rule, and saved us an infinity of trouble. We were under no apprehension as to the outturn of the quality or weight of the teas and silks which we shipped. The ingenious process of augmenting the brilliancy of tea by a clever facing of 'Prussian blue' or 'Chinese yellow,' of adding to the bulk by an admixture of chopped willow or elm leaves, of increasing its weight by iron filings, was not yet practised by those 'heathen Chinee.' Possibly the absence of these 'industries' formed a very primitive mode of carrying on business!

On the other hand, we were obliged to make our own ink (out of powders from England), in which we resembled the Jews, who arrived in China and settled at Kae-Fung-Foo any time between B.C. 1122 and 249! Historians have not settled this point, but they have ascertained that, whenever it might have been, 'those people used split bamboos for pens, and at the Feast of Tabernacles made sufficient ink for the ensuing year'! Our letters and shipping documents were despatched under wafer or seal, as no such thing as envelopes yet existed (they had been in use in China for centuries!), nor did we enjoy the luxury of postage-stamps. Moreover every consignee of a ship was his own 'post office' for all letters brought out by her, and he delivered them to suit his own convenience. I have known cases in which outward letters were delivered when the vessel that brought them was outside the Bogue, homeward bound. This custom of not always delivering letters on the arrival of a ship from the United States was mutually understood, and considered as the privilege of any house. It can easily be imagined that a New York firm, in sending the 'Huntress' to a market 12,000 miles away for a valuable cargo, might suffer greatly in its interests if she carried letters from a rival house deliverable on arrival, informing its correspondent that it should despatch the 'Levant' shortly, give him particulars of her outward cargo and orders for a return one. Thus very reasonably, letters were detained until the agent of a ship had concluded his purchases--at least he had the privilege of detaining them. There was, of course, the chance of the passage out, and the difference that might result to the quickest ship.

* * * * *

When a ship had anchored at Whampoa, the pilot reported her arrival to the Hoppo through a branch Hoppo station at that place. This would be done, not by giving the name of the ship, but that of the captain. Two boats were then made fast to her, to see that no smuggling was carried on; they were attached one on each quarter. Meanwhile the agent would select a Hong merchant to become 'security' for her and a Linguist to transact her business with the Hoppo's office, to send boats to bring her cargo to Canton, and to take to Whampoa her outward cargo, and these were all the 'official' duties that the agent had to attend to.

Before she could open hatches, the formality of 'Cumsha and Measurement' had to be gone through. The first word signifies 'present,' and was a payment made by the earliest foreign vessels for the privilege of entering the port; and the second is equivalent to tonnage duties. On a day of which notice was given to the agent, a specially appointed mandarin from the Hoppo's office was sent on board, attended by pursers and numerous servants. He was always received with some ceremony, and regaled with wine and biscuit. As with all the officials, they were men of a good deal of dignity and ease of manner. The captain would receive him at the gangway, while all hands were rigged out in their 'Sunday suits.' After the ordinary salutations, enquiries as to the passage out, &c., the measurement would be made by one of the attendants attaching the end of a measured tape to the forward part of the rudder head and running it to the after part of the foremast, then calling out the length, which others would note in writing; the breadth was then taken amidships close abaft the mainmast, between the plankshears, which being booked, a calculation was made of the dimensions for duty. As the details were peculiar I give those of the ship 'Maria' (Captain Evans), of New York, whose tonnage was about 420 (Canton, June 1830).

Length, 67 covids; breadth 22; total
147-4/10 covids. Deducting one-fifth
according to the regulations for
second-class ships. Equal to taels[54] 842.2.8.5
Loss in converting into Sycee-silver 75.8.0.6
For work of converting, 1/5 per cent. 15.1.6.1
Cumsha 810.6.9.1
-----------
1,743.9.4.3

The Hoppo's 'opening barrier fee' 480.42.0
-----------
2,224.3.6.3
Transport to Pekin and weighing in
Government scales 150.1.4.5
To the Superintendent of the Treasury 116.42.4
Add 1-1/10 per cent. converting into
Sycee 1.2.8.0
-----------
2,492.2.1.2

Difference in weights between Canton and
Pekin, 7 per cent. 174.4.5.5
-----------
At 72 per dollar, are $5,092-59/100 Taels 3,666.6.6.7
===========

Vessels coming to Whampoa with rice only were subject to the modified port charges of $1,150 up to the year 1833, but in that year, owing to a great famine that existed, they were done away with. The Viceroy Loo then issued a lengthy proclamation, in which the Hong merchants were ordered to make known the cessation of those charges to 'all the foreign barbarians,' 'who would leap for joy, and go backward and forward in search of rice cargoes.'

The 'Cumsha and Measurement' having been duly disposed of, a permit was granted for 'opening hatches,' and the unloading went on uninterruptedly. The outward cargo was then shipped off, and the vessel ready for sea. Tea ships exclusively met with no great delay at Whampoa--on the average about three months--but if silks constituted her homeward lading, frequently six months passed before they were ready. It then happened that not a solitary foreign vessel remained at the anchorage; I have seen this to occur on several occasions.

When finally loaded, application was made through the Linguist to the Hoppo for the 'Grand Chop.' This was at once delivered on ascertaining that all formalities had been fulfilled and duties collected. It was a large sheet having a broad border, on two sides of which was the figure of a Dragon (the symbol of the Celestial Empire). They were always the same in form, and printed from wooden blocks, with blank spaces to be filled in with the name of the captain, number of the crew, list of armament, and date of issue. The following is a translation of the grand chop of the ship 'Maria,' Captain Evans:--

Chung, filling the office of Hoppo by Imperial appointment,
issues this in obedience to his will. When Western Ocean ships
have been measured, paid their duties, and departed, should bad
winds and water drive them to the shores of another province
(not being within the accorded limits of trading), if it is
found that they possess this sealed discharge they must be
allowed to continue their voyage without delay or opposition.
Which is on record.

Now the foreign merchant ship 'Ewan' having loaded with
merchandise, goes to the Hwa-Ke[55] country, there to manage
her business. She has been measured, and duties incurred by her
have all been settled, as customary. As she is now departing,
this is given as a clearance into the hands of the said merchant
to grasp and hold fast, so that, should he meet with any other
custom-house, he must not be detained. Military stations to
which it may be shown must also let the said vessel pass without
interruption, and not induce her to remain and trade that they
may be benefited by any charges or duties. Should they act
otherwise, it will give rise to trouble and confusion.

According to old regulations, the guns and ammunition and
other arms she carries for her defence are herein enumerated.
An unnecessary quantity is not allowed, nor has she dared to
receive on board contraband articles. Should it have been
discovered that these rules were broken by her, this permission
to sail would assuredly not have been granted.

Respectfully examine this _and depart_.
(Hoppo's seal.)

Sailors 26
Great guns 4
Shot 100
Swords 10
Muskets 10
Fire-physic (powder) 200 catties

Taou-Kwang: 11th year, 10th moon, 12th sun.

* * * * *

The _Whampoa Compradores_ who attended upon American and other foreign ships received their licenses from the Hoppo's office. They were, like their Canton brethren, a notable class, and fulfilled for the ships the same offices as the latter did for the Factories. It was another illustration of the perfect system that existed, whereby all having business at the port were aided in every manner for their own convenience and security. The Whampoa Compradore for American vessels in eight cases out of ten was 'Boston Jack'. He was much considered by his countrymen on the island, and ever civil and obliging. He had once made a passage to Boston as steward, and returned to Whampoa, _viâ_ Cape Horn and the north-west coast of America, in a small schooner of about 200 tons called the 'Cossack,' on board of which was Mr. Oliver H. Gordon as supercargo. 'Boston Jack' was very fond of relating his experiences on board of the 'Cossack,' particularly off the Horn, where, as he would say, 'too muchee strong gale; sea all same high masthead--no can see sky, no can see water,' meaning that in the turmoil of the elements one could see nothing. By his countrymen he was looked upon as a very 'great gun;' he was a favourite with the Americans, and finally died at a good old age, 'universally regretted' and much missed!

The grand chop having been received from the Hoppo, the pilot was obtained at Whampoa. As the ship got under way, the Compradore's 'cumshas,'[56] according to 'olo custom,' were brought on board. They consisted of dried lychee, Nankin dates (the 'latest dates,' as they were christened), baskets of oranges, and preserved ginger; then, amidst a firing off of crackers attached to the end of a long pole from the Compradore's boat--'to awaken the gods to the vessel's departure,' that they might vouchsafe to her 'good wind and good water'--she departed. As in entering the river, she hove to off Anonghoy Fort at the Bogue, that the pilot could exhibit his pass. Sailing by Macao, this individual was cast off, and soon outside, she was rolling down the China Sea--homeward bound!

The English East India Company's ships were divided into two fleets, which came in alternate years. Each fleet consisted of about twenty vessels, a certain number of which were appointed for China _viâ_ Bombay, Madras, and Calcutta, while the remainder were direct ships.

They were splendid vessels of 1,800 to 2,000 tons. Some belonged to the Company, others were chartered usually for a certain number of voyages. Many of them were built in India of teak. In time of war they sailed under convoy; the gun-deck then carried a suitable armament, of which good use was made in several encounters--notably in the southern part of the China Sea, when, under Admiral Duckworth, a French squadron was beaten off, and on other occasions in the Bay of Bengal. They sailed under the flag of the Company, which resembled that of the United States in its alternate red and white stripes, having for its field the English Jack. The discipline on board was that of a man-of-war, and they differed in no respect from one except that they did not fly the pennant or carry a special body of marines. Besides the commander, the officers were six in number, several midshipmen, surgeons, and purser, together with the usual complement of warrant officers. Those of the fleet told off for India conveyed troops and munitions of war, for service in the Company's possessions there.

No finer sight of the kind could be seen in any part of the world than the Company's fleet collected at Whampoa, with their inward cargoes discharged, and every ship in beautiful order, waiting for teas. Those formidable vessels were not of the modern clipper model, but broad-backed, with swelling sides and full bows. On board everything was neat, everything indicated system, discipline, and force. The oldest captain (in date) daily hoisted his pennant as Commodore. Daily one of the ship's boats came to Canton in rotation, independently of others on individual service. The hospitality of the captains and officers was generous, and, as some of them had bands on board, it was a treat indeed to be included amongst the guests. The 'Vansittart's' band even came to Canton to play in the Factory on one occasion, and regaled the entire community by playing in the Square. The music attracted many Chinese also, it being to them a wonderful novelty. The bandsmen wore a uniform of red coats. We were all looking on and listening, when suddenly a Chinaman exclaimed, 'What for he makee so muchee noisee?' 'Noise!' said one of the barbarians; 'may Fo[57] run away with you--that no belong noise, belong music. You no likee?' 'Hae-yah![58] my how can likee, all make mixee--_my_ China music No. 1; _he_ too muchee foolo!' What he would have added we couldn't tell, but suddenly he darted off, crying out, 'What for you kick my?' and made the best of his way up Old China Street. Soon afterwards the crowd became so numerous and so noisy that to avoid further 'complications' the band was withdrawn inside the Company's Factory and the Square cleared, and not very quietly, as the Chinamen's bare heads resounded with the thwacks which were laid on them, but it took place with great celerity. That was the first and only time a foreign band of music was heard to play in the Square.

Exports by 'country ships' to India consisted of tea, coarse porcelain, paper umbrellas, silks, and a multitude of 'chow-chow' articles, together with enormous quantities of silver and bar gold. For the latter a special chop, called 'money chop,' had to be obtained from the Hoppo. It was these repeated shipments of treasure that attracted the attention of the local authorities, and through whose reports in connection with the foreign commerce of the port they were made known to the Government at Pekin. As a natural result, Imperial edicts were sent down forbidding shipments of such quantities of money, as being for the purchase of 'foreign mud,' to be introduced by stealth into the 'Middle Kingdom,' against prohibitions successively issued, warning all engaged in the trade 'to desist and not to incur the Imperial displeasure,' while any Chinese co-operating in it were to be severely punished. But the immunity so long enjoyed, with the inherent weakness of the Chinese Government, caused foreigners to believe that any serious attempt to put a stop to the trade was simply impracticable. The Imperial edicts were considered as so much waste paper. Opium was imported and sold, while 'the oozing out of fine silver' went on as usual.

* * * * *

Of the 'Outside' Chinese Merchants several were of much consideration, and of an integrity and intelligence in business unsurpassed by the mercantile classes of any other country. Such men were Washing, Cumwa, Linchong, Wo-Yun, Yeeshing, Keet-Chong, and others. An incident in relation to Yeeshing, serving as an illustration both of his honesty and unselfishness, may be related.

On the occasion of the great fire in 1822, enormous quantities of private property and of merchandise were destroyed, and opportunities offered when, without the possibility of discovery, the latter, particularly, could have been concealed and reported as having been consumed by the flames. Mr. John P. Cushing, of the house of Perkins & Co., had placed with Yeeshing 5,000 pieces of crapes to be dyed, whose value was about $50,000. There was, of course, no insurance upon them, nothing of the kind existing at Canton. A day or two after the fire Yeeshing entered Mr. Cushing's office, exclaiming,'Hae-yah! Hae-yah!' 'Well, Yeeshing,' enquired Mr. C., 'how fashion?' To which he replied, 'My have loosum my house, my shop--alla finishy, too muchee trub.' Mr. C. began to express his sympathy, with the conviction that he too was involved in the loss, when Yeeshing continued, 'My alla finishy, only when my take out you crape (to save it) hav loosum 84 peecee, how can my, no too muchee trub?' He had saved Mr. Cushing's crapes, but had lost his own dwelling and its contents, with an important quantity of his own goods and chattels, in doing so.

Keet-Chong, named above, possessed an estate on French Island, on which his family had resided for more than 800 years. It was of moderate extent, the dwelling spacious, and, as he used to say, 'all thing no have changee.' He showed me on one occasion his genealogical tree (which Chinese families keep with scrupulous care), and which ascended, according to it, to the Sung Dynasty (967 to 1281 A.D.). This dynasty immediately preceded the Yuen, or Mongol Tartar, family, the first emperor of which was Kublai Khan, grandson of 'Jengis Khan.'

The custom exists among Chinese of not using their family names in business, either for firms or individuals. They assume certain designations by which they are known, are responsible, and recognised by the authorities. As examples, Houqua, whose family name was Woo (from which _How_), was known commercially as 'Ewo.' Pwantingqua, whose family name was Pwān, was known as 'Tung Foo,' and the family name of 'Washing' was Moo. The choice of these names is singularly diversified and sometimes very droll. In passing through any business street you see on a small sign attached to a pillar at the side of a door such firms as 'Peace and Quiet,' 'Current Gains,' 'Collective Justice,' 'Perfect Concord,' 'United Concord.' I have seen 'Tan-E' (which means literally 'Solitary Idea'), 'Perfect Record,' 'Three Unities.' Where something of a more imposing nature is chosen--as, for instance, 'George and Thomas Sandbank, Sons and Nephews'--a double name, such as 'The Record of Perpetual Harmony,' would be adopted. One is struck with the use of short inscriptions on narrow sheets of red paper over doorways, at the foot of stairs, over weights and measures, everywhere and on everything almost. On entering an outer door you observe above it, 'May the Five Happinesses enter the abode' (longevity, riches, posterity, love of virtue, and a natural death), while within may be seen, 'May wealth flow in abundantly;' and not a bad one, 'For idle persons there is no admittance.' 'As wheels revolve, so may supplies and sales continue;' 'Customers come in numbers, like the gathering of clouds;' 'Here are sold superior goods, in whose prices there is no change;' 'Rich customers are perpetually welcome;' 'Daily may there be weighed 10,000 taels' (May the transactions amount to that sum); 'From a single cash, may 10,000 be derived' (these last two may be seen over scales and weights); and so each object has its peculiar, if not appropriate, device. You read on each one of a pile of water-tubs, 'The bucket of superlative peace;' on chests, 'The box of great tranquillity;' over inner doors, 'May happiness attend the opening of the door;' and over shelves and drawers, 'When opened, may prosperity follow;' at the top of a stairway, 'May the going up or down be calm and peaceful.' On the sterns and bows of boats and junks you may read, 'Prosperous gales and smooth seas' (which in Canton jargon is simplified to the usual expression 'Good wind, good water'); 'Grant favourable breezes;' 'A fair wind is riches;' 'The moon's rays shine upon and enliven the waters;' 'The dragon's head produces horns of gold' (an allusion to the bows of a junk, which are supposed to represent the head with the large eyes of the dragon), signifying, 'May the voyage be successful.'

* * * * *

The first foreign newspaper published at Canton was in 1827; it was called the 'Canton Register,' and was printed on a small hand-press lent for the purpose by Mr. Alexander Matheson, of the then house of Magniac & Co.[59] Its size was but a little more than that of a large sheet of foolscap. The editor, who himself was the first compositor, was a young American gentleman named Wood, of Philadelphia, and son of the celebrated tragedian. He was a person of great versatility, mentally and materially; he abounded in wit, was well read, and of no fixed purpose. Having ceased to be connected with the 'Register,' he entered the office of Messrs. Russell & Co. about the same time with young Irving, a nephew of Washington Irving. One day, one of our Parsee friends, Nanabhoy Framjee, came in for bills on London 'in small pamphlets' (moderate amounts each), and it was Wood's business to fill them up. Our office, one of three, was the general rendezvous of Russell & Co.'s captains, and on the day in question five or six of them were present, talking over purchases in carpenter's square of camphor-wood trunks, lacquered ware boxes, writing desks, &c. The bills having been made out were left on Mr. Low's desk for signature. Suddenly from the 'Tai-Pan's' office we heard a great shout of laughter, and that gentleman appeared. 'Wood,' said he, handing him one of the bills, 'I doubt if Baring's will accept this, or even Nanabhoy take it; read it over.' Wood did so, and to his confusion saw that B. B. & Co. were requested to pay to the order of Nanabhoy Framjee, Esq., 'one hundred lacquered ware boxes,' which in his absence of mind he had caught up from the skippers. Not very long after, Wood took up his quarters in the French Factory, and established a second newspaper, called the 'Chinese Courier,' which had but a short existence. Amongst his other accomplishments was that of sketching, for which he had a remarkable talent, and he was, moreover, a maker of verses! One evening at dinner at his house, several being at table, the conversation ran upon poetry, and some impromptu verses having been made, something led to a challenge to Wood to parody Byron's 'Know'st thou the land,' confining the words entirely to local matters and things. He accepted the challenge, and when we again met he read after dinner the following, on which we congratulated him, as being _good_ for Canton!

Know'st thou the land where the nankin and tea-chest,
With cassia and rhubarb and camphor, abound?
Where oft in the Hongs, by the coolies' foul feet pressed,
They pack their Boheas in a way to astound?

Know'st thou the land where in vain you endeavour
To sell your fair longcloths or barter your yarn?
Where you fidget and fret, be you never so clever,
And find all your profits are going 'astarn'?

Know'st thou the land where the drug in its glory,
With cotton and betel-nut, govern the day?
Where Patna or Malwa's the theme of each story,
The life of each anecdote, solemn or gay?

Know'st thou the land where the fair, unprotected
By the lords of their destinies, wither alone?
Where woman's a slave, by her tyrants neglected,
And the only bright jewel they sigh not to own?

Where lips which were formed to breathe of devotion
To affectionate spouses or lovers provoke;
Instead of confessing their tender emotion,
Give forth all their sensitive feelings in _smoke_?

'Tis the land we now live in--the land that would shame
The world by its valour, invention, and worth;
Where the page of her history glows with the name
Of her sage,[60] and her warrior,[61] the pride of the earth;

Where tea is the potion great deeds to inspire,
And emperors deign (and if _they_, who will not?)
To watch the decoction, themselves, on the fire,
And write prosy odes to the 'pride of the pot.'

Tho' fairest Hwâ-Te[62] are thy gardens of flowers,
And sweet every blossom that flings to the breeze
Its perfume, decks with its tints thy gay bowers,
Or clings on its vine to thy moss-covered trees;

Yet fairer the lands we have all left behind us,
And gayer the flowers and purer the air.
Do we need in our exile this rhyme to remind us
Of the hearts that are glowing with love for us there?

Farewell then to tea-chests; the loosened sail flying
Expands to the breeze and chides our delay;
Now past is the parting, the 'chin-chin,' the sighing
Of all the poor 'devils'[63] who _can't_ get away!

Wood and a brother resident, an Irishman named Keating, had at one time a 'little difficulty.' Mr. Augustine Heard acted for him, and Mr. James Innes, an 'old school' and eccentric Scotchman, for the latter. Much correspondence took place between them as to where the question should be washed out in 'blood.' One side chose French Island, at Whampoa; the other Lintin, as being beyond the interference of the Chinese authorities in case of 'accident;' but through the good sense of the '_best_ men,' and to the gratification of common friends, the dispute was arranged--because, as Wood said, 'There was no abbey in which to lay a body.' After a residence of nearly ten years at Canton, Wood removed to Manila, and established himself on a coffee and sugar plantation at Jala-Jala. His letters from this new abode were full of wit and mirthful to a degree, even in describing bad crops caused by visits from Messrs. Taiphoon, Drought, & Co., or the destruction of his fences by wild buffaloes, while he never could get a night's sleep from the many snakes of preposterous dimensions which made themselves 'at home' in his bungalow, and pursued the most 'harmless' of rats across the ceiling, up and down posts, and across the floors 'under his very eyes.' At length he quitted Jala-Jala and joined the office of Messrs. Russell & Sturgis, at Manila. Under their generous auspices and considerate kindness he ever after found there a home.

He was the first person to introduce the art of photography in Manila, and through his teaching many Mestizos[64] became proficients, and practise it now as a profession. He made one short visit to Europe, from which he returned delighted, and one to myself at Macao (thirty years after we first met at Canton). At length for poor Wood the 'tolling of the bell' was heard; he died, full of years, after an extraordinary life of great personal worth, great unsteadiness of purpose, and, as far as worldly success went, a great unsuccess.

* * * * *

Under certain circumstances foreign residents could 'offer up' petitions at the city gates! It was a privilege that had its origin a long while ago. At the same time it was discouraged by the authorities, while strict orders were given to the guards at the gates to keep a sharp look-out and close them if any number of barbarians were known to be approaching. This old custom originated in some question, such as praying for a diminution of duties (all duties being more or less arbitrary), or for permission to ship off an extra weight of silks, which was fixed at a certain number of piculs per vessel,[65] and called the 'silk privilege,' or on some matter affecting their personal comfort. The Co-Hong frequently co-operated with us, recommended our petitioning, and even themselves made a draft paper. Answers to these petitions were invariably received, when the Hong merchants would prepare for us a rejoinder, if necessary.

Great precautions were taken to keep the intention as quiet as possible, consequently all who were disposed to join a party in presenting a petition were advised in time. None were more anxious to accompany it than the younger members of the community, who considered it great fun! To refer to a particular case, directly in front of the American Factory, at the river side, there existed a huge mound of earth and rubbish that had its origin with the great fire of 1822. While the new Factories were going up and the damaged ones being repaired the workmen and coolies threw all sorts of rubbish on the spot. Subsequently it became a depository of refuse of all sorts, and finally a resort of loathsome beggars, of whom many died on it; but beyond obtaining the carrying away of the dead bodies, all efforts by the foreigners to get the whole thing removed had proved ineffectual.

The Hong merchants now and then sent a number of coolies, but they made small impression upon it; and at length, mostly at their suggestion that it was 'Mandarin pigeon,' it was resolved to present a petition at the city gates, which they themselves prepared and we copied.

On the day agreed upon, therefore, the party going were quietly advised and informed at which gate to meet. Taking different streets in small numbers of three or four, all drew towards the 'petition gate,' as we called it, and suddenly with a rush entered it. The surprise of the guards was complete. They hastily closed the ponderous outer gate to prevent the Chinese entering and possibly creating a row. Seeing the petition on red paper held up above our heads, they knew from experience the object of our visit, and forthwith despatched a messenger to the Hoppo's 'Ya-Mun.'[66] Any annoyance caused us by Chinese lookers-on or by any who tried to crowd about us called for prompt 'whipping' by the soldiers, as was always the case, letting foreigners have their own way, and laying it well over the shoulders of their own countrymen who attempted any interference or who did not 'move on' fast enough. It happened that on a previous occasion of petitioning an unpleasant incident occurred, which arose from a fancied insult; blows had been exchanged, and certain words used by an excited member of the foreign party in reference to the soldiers became a tradition, 'Knock them down, friend Olyphant, they are only tea and rice,' and the best of the joke was that the speaker was a Quaker and Mr. Olyphant one of the quietest men in the world, and the last person to strike any one.

Such exhibitions were much to be deplored as encouraging the belief that foreigners were indeed 'unruly devils'--a pugnacious, wild, boisterous people. Presently we heard the sound of the gong and the loud cries of lictors preceding the Mandarin calling out his rank and office as well as keeping the street clear. The space between the large outer and inner gate is the thickness of the wall, about thirty feet, and twelve to eighteen feet broad, the quarters of the guard, about twenty or twenty-five in number, being in recesses on either side, and in this space petitions are received. The Ta-Yin[67] (great man) having entered with other Mandarins and attendants, after salutations and surprise at seeing so many foreigners, they seated themselves on chairs brought by their followers. He then commenced by telling us of the extreme impropriety of entering the gates in opposition to the will of the 'Son of Heaven,' cautioned us to be wary how we did the like again, lest we might check the flow of Imperial benevolence towards all coming from a distance, &c. &c., which was the usual opening formula, when a Linguist being found cut and dried on the spot (sent privately by the Hong merchants), stepped forward, knelt on both knees, and 'handed up' the petition. In the meantime it was a strange sight to see the houses, shop doors, and windows inside the city full to overflow of Chinese, intently looking on in profound stillness and curiosity.

His Excellency, having read the paper, said in placing it in the hands of an officer that a communication would be sent to the Hong merchants, 'that we must return to our Factories, be henceforth reverently obedient, when all would be well, otherwise His Sacred Majesty, Ruler of all under the Sun, notwithstanding that he was the incarnation of consideration for all beyond the Western Ocean, might be provoked to withdraw his beneficent,' &c. &c. 'That the laws of the Celestial Empire must be obeyed,' and this was the closing formula.

Business being thus ended, a disposition was shown for a little conversation. Acting as interpreter, I was invited to speak of the distance of our countries from the 'Celestial Flowery Land,' how many moons it took to come and to return; all which was done in laying great stress upon the clear light of day into which we emerged as we left our own gloomy shores and approached the 'Middle Kingdom'! Questions were asked as to our respective nationalities, our names also; and in their attempts to repeat such as Zacharia, Krieroffski, Burr, and Brown, they turned to one another and laughed heartily at their unsuccessful efforts. The teapot and servants to prepare the infusion being indispensable in the suite of Mandarins (as well as pipe-bearers), tea was presently offered to us; we in exchange 'offered up' Manila cheroots. No one exhibited the slightest impatience, no matter how many hundreds of Chinese were obliged, outside or inside, to make great détours to reach other gates.

The Mandarins being provided with two watches each, next began a comparison of time; they asked our ages, how long we had lived within the benign sway of that 'Almighty Ruler' under whose protecting wings we found ourselves; and being assured, in reply to other enquiries, that in our distant countries now and then a sun, very occasionally two or three moons, with a rare glimmer of a star, might be seen, they rose from their seats, took leave, and were soon out of sight. The great gate was then opened after a violent effort, with a loud grating of its enormous hinges, and the 'foreign devils' returned to the Factories, after an hour or two agreeably passed. The petition in question resulted in the Hong merchants receiving orders for the immediate removal of the unsightly mound, of course at their expense. They were effectually carried out and the ground was levelled off. It then became the favourite resort of the Indian servants of Parsee and Moormen residents.

* * * * *

Until the summer of 1829 the most important of the American houses was that of Perkins & Co. It was the oldest one existing, without change of name, of all the foreign firms, having been established soon after a visit made by Mr. Thomas H. Perkins with two vessels to Canton in 1798. The house was represented until 1807 by Mr. Bumstead, who was then succeeded by Mr. Cushing. For comparison with the size of merchant ships at the present day, it may be noted that this gentleman came out in the ship 'Levant' (Captain Proctor), of 264 tons! Mr. Cushing became a partner in the Boston firm of J. and T. H. Perkins, and managed that of Perkins & Co., of which he was also a partner continuously until 1828, without leaving Canton, when he returned to Boston in the ship 'Milo,' arriving there on September 17.

To Mr. Cushing succeeded Mr. Thomas T. Forbes, who, on returning from a visit to Macao in his yacht, was unfortunately drowned in a taiphoon on August 9, 1829, together with Mr. S. H. Monson, the book-keeper of Russell & Co. On this sad event taking place, amongst his papers was found a sealed letter addressed to Russell & Co. It requested them, in case of accident to himself, to take charge of the local business of his own firm, as well as that of J. and T. H. Perkins. They did so, and naturally came with it that of Houqua, who had been the intimate personal friend of Mr. Cushing during his unbroken residence of over twenty years in Canton.

When the news of Mr. Forbes's death reached him, Mr. Cushing was in England, where the 'Bashaw' (Captain Pearson), one of the ships of his Boston firm, was loading for Whampoa. He returned to Canton in her, arriving in the month of August 1830. Arrangements were then definitely concluded by which Russell & Co. were officially appointed sole agents for the Boston house, that of Perkins & Co. being wound up, while the important foreign business of Houqua was then also definitely secured to them.

Towards the close of 'ante-treaty' days, the house met with a serious loss in the violent death of another book-keeper, Mr. George C. Perkins, of Boston. He entered the office as assistant book-keeper,[68] and subsequently took charge of that important branch of the business. He was about thirty years of age, very systematic and methodical, a well-read man, and of most agreeable manners. He left Macao on a visit to the United States, and was returning by the way of San Francisco to resume the duties of his office. Having arrived near Hong Kong, he left the ship in which he had crossed the Pacific, for Macao in a fast boat with all his baggage. Supposing it to contain gold, coming from the 'Gold Hills' (by which name California is known to the Chinese), the cupidity of the boatmen was excited. They threw Perkins overboard in the Lantao Channel, and he was drowned. On the event being made known to the Canton authorities, their search for the boatmen was so energetic that they were soon discovered in the midst of a number of fast boats anchored in Anson's Bay, and beheaded.

* * * * *

The year 1830 was an unprecedented one in the annals of foreign life at Canton, by reason of the coming to the Factories of several English and American ladies from Macao, in 'direct opposition to old regulations.' The Mandarins were thoroughly at their wits' ends by so extraordinary an occurrence. 'Chops' began to circulate freely. The ladies were ordered to leave forthwith, and without one moment's delay, otherwise the 'Son of Heaven,' 'so considerate for all beyond the sea,' would withdraw his compassion, and, and--in fact, had the world been coming to an end, the authorities could not have been more thoroughly alarmed. In a letter written at the time, I find the following, dated April 8, 1830:--

Went in the morning to the 'Company's' chapel with several
Americans to hear the Rev. Mr. Vachell preach, and to see the
'foreign devil females,' as the Chinamen call them. They were
Mrs. Baynes, wife of the Chief of the Factory, Mrs. Robinson,
and Mrs. Fearon, but _she_ is the beauty of the party! Mrs. B.
was dressed in true London style, which, much admired by us, is
considered 'frightful' by the Chinese. It was quite a strange
thing to see foreign ladies in the 'Celestial Empire,' an
occurrence which had never before taken place! After a few days
they left, but not until the mandarins threatened to stop all
trade!

On November 12 of the same year I find the following:--

What will Canton turn into, and where will bachelors find
rest? Nowhere. Mrs. and Miss Low and other ladies are at this
moment here! The second day after they arrived several old
codgers were seen in immense coats, which had been stowed away
in camphor trunks for ten or fifteen years, and with huge
cravats on, and with what once were gloves, on their way to make
visits!

_13th._--Called on the Tai-Pan's wife and niece, and
entertained them with descriptions of local worthies such as
'Houqua,' 'Mouqua,' and 'Gowqua,' 'Man-Hop,' 'Wa-Hop,' and
'Tung-Hop'--a jumble they had never heard of, and names that
amused them immensely.

_22nd._--Evening Church service at Talbot's, the Consul,
at No. 1 American Hong. The ladies and a good number of
gentlemen present. At half-past nine we accompanied the former
to show our fashionable street, Old China Street, its shops
shut at that hour; but some Chinamen passing began to cry out,
'Foreign devil women!' when instantly every door was opened and
lanterns appeared. In less than ten minutes we were completely
surrounded, and had to beat a hasty retreat. We were not at all
molested; it was simply surprise and curiosity; and on arriving
at the gate of the Hong everyone quietly dispersed.

_24th._--The Chinese are not so far out in calling us
barbarians. Two or three from No. 2 Suy-Hong called on the
ladies. Coats, gloves, and cravats--such cravats! I heard one
say when he returned, 'Thank God that is over!' and then call
for jacket and black neck-ribbon! He next lighted a cheroot, and
looked as if a great burthen were off his mind. In the evening
dined at Charles N. Talbot's; all bachelors, of course! A fine
little party; but I dissipated too much, and the sooner bedtime
comes the better. Bad habit of dining out in this country; I
think I shall swear off, no getting home without being observed!
I hope the ladies in No. 1 did not see me come in!

_30th._--The ladies took their departure this evening. They
went on board the boat that was to convey them, escorted by all
the American gentlemen. While returning from Jackass Point an
inveterate bachelor said, 'I hope we shall never be _bothered_
with ladies in Canton again!' but he was a notoriously crusty
old fellow.

* * * * *

Having lost a fine retriever named Rover, and an English friend a small pug named Bop, I caused a 'reward-card' to be posted on the walls of Chungqua's Hong. As these 'cards' have a peculiar phraseology, I give a translation of the one in question:--

On the 10th day of the 1st moon of the present year two
foreign dogs strayed, one from the Suy-Hong and one from the
Dutch Hong, and have not been seen to return. Long ears and
a long tail adorned the one, which had also a brown star on
its breast, the body being of the colour of 'fragrant ink.'
The other was a small dog, with cropped ears and a tail of no
length. His body was spotted in variegated colours of brown and
white. The larger dog was named 'Lo-Wā,' and the smaller 'Pŏ-Pā.'

This is to give notice that should any 'superior man'
know where they are, or if they have been 'misled,' and will
inform, he shall be rewarded with _flowered red money--two great
rounds_[69] for the big one, and one great round for the little
one. Even should they have been _stolen_ (_an inconceivable
thing!_), if the person who took them will bring them to
Suy-Hong No. 2 he Shall still be rewarded, and clemency used
towards him. This placard is real; its words will not be eaten.

Taou-Kwang: 14th year, 15th day, 1st moon.

The poor dogs were never found, and the Compradore insisted upon it that 'some man hav chow-chow he,'[70] and we supposed so too.

* * * * *

On February 27, 1831, Mr. Russell and Mr. Cushing took their final leave of Canton in the 'Bashaw' (Captain Pearson), for Boston, the former with the satisfaction of having founded a house in that distant port which, under his sagacious management, had secured the confidence and consideration of the entire foreign and Chinese mercantile community, as well as of its numerous foreign correspondents in all quarters of the world. Its present world-wide reputation renders it needless to say that it still exists, and has become one of the oldest, if not _the_ oldest firm whose style has undergone no change eastward of the Cape of Good Hope. Mr. Russell was a native of Middletown, Connecticut, a person of singularly gentle and benevolent disposition. There was about him a suavity and charm of manner which under no circumstances ever deserted him. Throughout a long life he enlisted the esteem and respect of all who knew him. Of his considerate forbearance under great provocation I can vouch from personal experience. From my first entrance in the office he was desirous that I should make myself acquainted with book-keeping. Its mysteries he first taught me. However incorrectly the tyro appreciated the relative bearing of successive transactions or bungled in recording them, he was corrected with a patience and kindliness of manner that knew no bounds, and the encouragement he thus received at length led him to a clear idea of the respective value of debit and credit, as well as to the knowledge that they were 'the two factors which formed the base of all mercantile transactions.'

The younger members of the office, as a slight testimony to the paternal kindness which they had received from their worthy 'Tae-pan,' invited him to dine with them, to consider himself as their guest, at a 'parting dinner.' He graciously accepted, and seemed pleased at the idea. We invited Mr. Cushing and his old friend Houqua. The latter could not be present, but sent us a very choice bird's-nest soup for the occasion. We sent to Manila for a _fine_ turkey, and on its arrival put it out to board on Honam, with injunctions that it should be well fed. The turkey was a very rare bird at Canton and supplies came from Manila. Ours looked rather haggard on arrival, and the Compradore attributed it to its being 'very tired,' but added that it would be No. 1 when killed, fat and presentable. The day came, and with it the dinner. At the proper moment a great dish was placed upon the table and the cover removed in a triumphant way, only to exhibit, to our horror, a lot of legs and wings of the turkey, but as to body next to nothing!