Chapter VI (4)

Towering to great heights from the coast-plain, the mountains of the Elba group are very conspicuous from long distances either on sea or on land when the air is clear. But often for weeks together they are so shrouded in mist as to be invisible even when one is fairly near to them. These very mists, which so often hinder the view being obtained, are the cause of much added beauty to the scene when the air is clear; for the moisture produces a rich vegetation, not only in the wadis, but along all clefts right up to the tops of the mountains, and furnishes in addition the largest and most important water sources in the Eastern Desert. So abundant is the vegetation in all the wadis draining from Elba, that it is impossible to approach the mountains very closely with loaded camels, owing to the closeness of the trees. Richest in water supply and in vegetation of all tracts in the Eastern Desert of Egypt, it is natural that the Elba district should also be the greatest centre of desert population, and there are considerable settlements of Bisharin Arabs round the feet of the mountains.

PLATE XIX.

Ball. Geography & Geology of South-Eastern Egypt.

Photo-Metal-Process. Survey Dept. Cairo 1910. (60-190)]

=Gebel Elba=,[111] the most northerly mountain of the main group, is cut off from the mountains to the south by the Wadis O Sir Hadal and Serimtai; there is a pass between the heads of these wadis, so that a complete circuit of the mountain can be made, although from almost any aspect Elba appears to be joined on to the other mountains of the group. In plan, Gebel Elba is nearly a square of about fifteen kilometres sides, with its diagonal in the meridian. It is a bristling mass of light-coloured granite peaks, flanked on the south and west by rugged hills of darker rocks. The highest point, the “high peak” of the Admiralty Chart, is in latitude 22° 10′ 3″, longitude 36° 21′ 52″, and 1,435 metres above sea; another peak, slightly lower, but more conspicuous and nearer the centre of the mass, was chosen for the site of the triangulation station. The beacon on this latter peak is 1,428 metres above sea, and has the position latitude 22° 11′ 27″, longitude 36° 20′ 52″. The peak which bears the triangulation station forms a centre from which drainage lines radiate in all directions. The principal of these drainage lines, which are all well wooded, are the Wadi Yahameib, which with its feeders Wadis Akau and Kansisrob drains the north faces of the mountain, and unites with Wadi Aideib, which drains the north-east flanks; Wadi Serimtai, which by its feeder the Wadi O Sir Eirab drains the south part of the mass and then curves round north-eastwards to the sea; and the Wadi Yoider, which drains the western parts of the mountain by its three main heads called respectively Wadi Akwamtra, Wadi Qeirat, and Wadi O Sir Hadal, and then courses northward to reach the sea.

The approach to Gebel Elba by the coast-plain from the north-west is said to be difficult, on account of having to cross an extensive tract of sand dunes, called I Hubal, which lies to the north and north-east of Gebel Sul Hamid. The survey expedition reached the mountain by marching eastward from Bir Meheriqa in the Wadi Di-ib. On this road the sand was not found a serious hindrance, though progress was rather slow through O Harbub, a sand-choked wadi which was entered on turning eastwards just after leaving Bir Meheriqa. Skirting the south side of Gebel Sul Hamid over a sandy plain, we continued eastward with a slight northerly bend till the jagged mass of Qash Amir came into view; then striking due east again we entered some low hills and dropped by an easy pass into Wadi Siamtit, a little feeder of Wadi Yoider; crossing the main channel of Yoider, we continued our course eastward across very sandy minor wadis, and turning a little southward we reached Bir Akwamtra, where we found a fairly large Bisharin camp, in a stony wadi full of trees.

I had hoped to ascend the mountain by way of Wadi Akwamtra, which heads right under the peak selected for the triangulation station. But on arriving at the well we were still more than six kilometres from the head of the wadi, and further progress for camels was very difficult owing to the closeness of the trees, and the bouldery nature of the wadi floor. Guides sent out to reconnoitre having reported that the ascent could be made with less difficulty from the Wadi Yahameib, we followed a very winding track leading over the Asut Duk pass into Yahameib, and then made our way southward over the sloping bouldery plain, thick with trees and scrub, until the camels could get no farther. The camp was pitched in a slight clearing at the foot of the mountain, three and a quarter kilometres north-west of the beacon, at an altitude of 343 metres above sea, or 1,085 metres below the beacon.

The climb to the summit was a long and tiring one, but very interesting. Starting at 6.30 a.m. on April 25, 1908, we first followed up the Wadi Yahameib to its head in a sort of neck between two peaks; this neck, which we reached at 10 a.m., is 1,093 metres above sea. About half way up to the neck, among some large granite blocks, there is a small spring of very pure water; it forms a pool holding about a gallon and a half, which fills as fast as it is emptied. Passing over the neck, we dropped down to a level of 984 metres in crossing the head of Wadi Akwamtra, and then, climbing up the opposite side, we reached the beacon (1,428 metres) at noon. Except the last 150 metres to the summit, which was bare steep granite, the whole climb was through a thick growth of trees, very green and fresh, with a tangled undergrowth of flowering shrubs and some mosses and lichens. The trees grow very near to the summit and give plenty of shady resting-places. Acacia (_sellim_) trees cease about 350 metres above sea, and new forms take their place. The most remarkable is a large tree called _Hohait_ by my Arabs; this tree, which I have not seen elsewhere in Egypt, grows in fair abundance to ten metres or more high, with thick woody looking trunk and branches, the foliage being great bunches of aloe-like leaves on the ends of the branches; according to my Arabs, it bears an edible fruit, of which they showed me the stone—a nearly spherical red one, about as big as a pea, very hard.[112]

The top of the mountain is narrow and very rough, but narrow sleeping places can be found on ledges. The view from the summit in clear weather is very fine and extensive; the subjoined figure is from a careful sketch which I made of the outlook southwards from the beacon. But, as already remarked, the mountain is frequently shrouded in cloud, and of the ten days I remained on the summit in April and May 1908 only three were clear.

The phenomenon of “glories,” or rainbow-coloured rings round the shadow of one’s head cast on to clouds below when the summit was clear, was well observed in the mornings. Three rings were specially distinct and vividly coloured on April 26, and I was able to measure the diameters with an improvised subtense apparatus; measuring to the middle of the yellow in each case, I found the diameters of the rings to be 4½°, 8¾°, and 13°, so that the diameters increase in arithmetical progression. The shadow cast by one’s head and body was most distinct when the cloud-bank was most opaque; the rings, on the other hand, were most brilliant when there was only a thin film of cloud.

The temperatures experienced on the summit were remarkable for their range. On April 25, 26, and 27, 1908, the air was still and full of wet mist, and the days were oppressively hot, while the nights were also warm and damp. On April 28, a cold north-west wind set in, which soon cleared the air; but with the clearness came such a chilling of the air that it was impossible to stand up to the instruments for observations for more than a few minutes at a time; one was glad to take shelter behind rocks from the biting blast, and though we were well within the tropics and the spring was far advanced, we sat shivering with blankets round us even in the sunniest and most sheltered spots we could find. The cold lasted till May 4, when we descended the mountain to be half roasted in the plains below.

As already remarked, Gebel Elba is well supplied with water sources. The two chief are Bir Akwamtra and Bir Kansisrob, both situated on the north side of the mountain. Between them is a small spring called Megwel Akau. On the south side of the mountain are two other wells called Bir Salalat O Sir, and Bir Sararat Serimtai. In times of rainfall there must be scores of rock pools along every drainage line.

=Karam Elba= is a granite hill rising to 586 metres above sea, close to the north-east foot of Gebel Elba, from which it is separated by a narrow wadi. Close north of Karam Elba are some low granite hills called =Takrat Riba=, while on the south side is another small granite hill called =Mikeriba=.

To the east of Karam Elba are some granite hills which, though of no great height, are conspicuous owing to their position on the coast-plain, and being used as landmarks by the local Arabs they bear special names. These are: =Alafot=, =Taar Ara=, =Kreishim=, =Abai Sis=, and =O Wota=, the last-named being the largest of them all. Some low banks north of Alafot are called =Alafot Onqwab=.

=Qash Amir= (“Scragged Hill” of the Admiralty Charts) is an isolated hill rising abruptly from a sandy plain at the head of Wadi Eikwan, about fifteen kilometres west-north-west of Gebel Elba. Qash Amir well deserves the title given to it by the Admiralty surveyors, for it is a mass of sharp granite spikes which my best guides, skilled climbers though they were, could only ascend with the greatest difficulty. Its top, marked by a beacon, is 724 metres above sea-level and has the position latitude 22° 14′ 31″, longitude 36° 12′ 20″. I had intended to occupy the summit as a main station, but the guides who were sent to erect the beacon reported that the summit was so sharp a spike that there was barely room for a beacon to be built, and that it would be impossible to set up a theodolite tripod on it, while there was not even a narrow ledge where one could sleep within several hundred metres of the summit.

=Gebel el Sela= is a straggling group of high rugged granite hills rising from the sandy plain to the north-east of Qash Amir. The highest of its peaks reaches to 560 metres above sea-level.

=Gebel Sul Hamid= is an extensive tract of low dark hills, covering some hundred square kilometres or so to the west of Qash Amir. Its highest peak is 572 metres above sea. The north part of the tract is drained by the Wadi Di-it, the eastern part by the Wadi Eikwan, while the southern drainages pass into a very shallow channel which courses westward over a sandy plain towards Wadi Di-ib, but becomes choked with sand at O Harbub before reaching that great trunk wadi.

=Gebel Balatitda= is a group of high hills lying between Gebel Sul Hamid and the Wadi Di-ib. Its highest point is 592 metres above sea-level. Bir Meheriqa is situated at the south-west of the mass, on the east side of Wadi Di-ib. The north flanks of Gebel Balatitda are swathed in blown sand.

=Gebel O Sir Eirab= is really the south part of Gebel Elba; its highest point is 842 metres above sea. Though its name Eirab means “white,” the mountain is composed of dark-coloured rocks. The explanation is that the Arabs always give the names to the wadis first, and the adjacent Wadi O Sir Eirab has a white sandy floor because it drains from the granite mass of Elba; the mountain is called after the wadi near it.

=Gebel Hanquf= is a range of mountains some twenty kilometres in length, stretching in a south-easterly direction to the south of Gebel Elba and separating that mountain from Gebel Shendib. Its south-eastern portion, containing the highest peaks, is of granite, while the north-western portion consists of dark rocks. Its highest point is the northerly one of two remarkable peaks near the south end of the range, and rises to 1,465 metres, while another summit near the middle of the range reaches 1,397 metres. The northern part of Gebel Hanquf is drained by the Wadi O Sir Hadal, a tributary of Wadi Yoider; its eastern flanks by the Wadi Serimtai; while the western drainage is to the Wadi Hareitra, which courses from between Gebel Hanquf and Gebel Shendib westwards to join the Wadi Di-ib.

=Gebel Shendib=, which lies close south-west of Gebel Hanquf, is a great mass of very high light-coloured peaks flanked on the west by a tract of moderately high hills of dark colour. The beacon which marks the highest point, 1,912 metres above sea, is in latitude 22° 0′ 48″, longitude 36° 16′ 30″. Shendib is the third highest mountain in Egypt proper, being surpassed in altitude only by El Shayeb and Hamata. Besides the main peak, there are numerous others exceeding 1,600 metres in height; one of these, some two kilometres south-east of the principal summit, reaches to 1,863 metres and marks very nearly the Sudan frontier; its latitude is 21° 59′ 56″, so that it is only some 120 metres south of the 22nd parallel.

The north portion of Shendib is drained by the Wadi Hareitra, the south part by Wadi Shendib, both these being tributaries of Wadi Di-ib.

=Gebel Shendodai= (“Castle Hill” of the Admiralty Charts) is a high mountain mass lying east of Gebel Hanquf, from which it is separated by the Wadi Serimtai. Its highest point, a well-marked peak, is in latitude 22° 3′ 1″, longitude 36° 25′ 31″, and rises to 1,529 metres above sea-level. Gebel Shendodai is drained by the Wadis Um Seyal (a tributary of Wadi Serimtai), Mera Kwan, and Shellal.

=Gebel Shellal=, situated close south-east of Gebel Shendodai on the Sudan frontier, is a group of mountains of slightly lower altitude than the foregoing, its highest peak being 1,409 metres above sea-level. Gebel Shellal is drained by the Wadis Shellal and Aqilhoq, the latter containing a good well, called Bir Frukit. A tract of low foot-hills, some twelve kilometres broad, fronts Gebels Shendodai and Shellal seawards, leaving a breadth of some twelve kilometres of gently sloping coast-plain between them and the shore. One of the foot-hills of Gebel Shellal, a conspicuous high dark-coloured ridge near Bir Frukit, bears the name of =Gebel Balatitda=. (It will be noticed that another hill group west of Gebel Elba bears the same name).

=Gebel Hadarba= is a little range of felsite hills with many peaks rising from the coast-plain close to Ras Hadarba (Cape Elba of the Admiralty Charts). A triangulation beacon on one of the highest points is in latitude 22° 2′ 53″, longitude 36° 47′ 23″, at an altitude of 217 metres above sea. Gebel Hadarba is drained by a number of small wadis, most of which empty themselves into the quicksands of Kuatianai which cover the projection of Cape Elba. A high hill at the south-west end of the Hadarba range bears the special name of =Wiekorei=, while a tract of low red hills on the Sudan frontier a few kilometres south of the Hadarba range, is called =Timaiakwaia=; this latter tract is chiefly drained by the Wadi Qabatit.

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[Footnote 106: The exception is El Shayeb, in latitude 26° 58′, which attains a height of 2,184 metres. _See_ BARRON and HUME, Topog. and Geology of the Eastern Desert of Egypt (Central Portion). Cairo, 1902. p. 40.]

[Footnote 107: Each of the last three vowels is pronounced separately, so that the word has four syllables, with the accent on the penultimate.]

[Footnote 108: The position of this cairn is latitude 23° 57′ 46″, longitude 35° 12′ 10″.]

[Footnote 109: The position of the cairn is latitude 24° 4′ 41″, longitude 35° 15′ 34″.]

[Footnote 110: By measurement with the theodolite I found the average slopes of the mountain to be 35°, and many parts have double this inclination. The vertical angle from my camp to the summit was over 23°.]

[Footnote 111: The word _Elba_ (Bishari) means “white mountain.” The designation “Gebel” is thus strictly speaking superfluous, but is convenient as the Bishari tongue is so little known.]

[Footnote 112: Prof. Schweinfurth informs me that the tree is the dragon’s-blood tree, _Dracaena ombet_ v. _Heuglin_; he himself did not see it in the Elba neighbourhood, and its occurrence has not hitherto been recorded further north than the Erkowit district of the Sudan (latitude about 19°), where the native name for the tree is _to-omba_ or _t’ombet_. See _Bollettino della Società Africana d’Italia_: Naples, 1891.]