Chapter XXXVI

TO leave Selby for York, one must needs cross the Ouse bridge, one of thee few places where tolls still survive. Foot-passengers and cyclists are on an equality, paying one penny each.

Level-crossings again have their wicked will of the road, and are indeed its principal features, through Barlby and Riccall. We need some modern Rebeccaites for the abolition of these unpaid-for easements granted to the Railway Companies by an indulgent legislature, composed largely of Railway Directors, for the mingled danger and waste of public time caused by level-crossings over public roads constitute a scandal urgently in need of being removed. Yorkshire people might be recommended to see to it, as their forefathers saw to the abolition of turnpikes, collecting in armed and disguised bands and wrecking and burning the obnoxious gates for great distances. In May 1753 they assembled at Selby at the summons of the public crier’s bell, and proceeded at midnight to demolish all the gates in that neighbourhood. The military were called out to quell these Hampdens. They did not succeed in saving the gates, but shot and captured a number of the “rioters,” who were sent for trial to York Castle.

Riccall, near the confluence of the Ouse and the Derwent, looks an unlikely seaport in these times, now that those rivers and the confluent Foss, a mile or so nearer York, flow soberly in their channels and cease from spreading over the land. Eight hundred years ago, however, things were very different—as indeed they well might be in that tremendous space of time. So different, in fact, that when the invasion of the North, under Tostig and Harald Hardrada, took place in 1066, before that greater invasion in the South by William “the Conqueror,” whose success has overshadowed these operations, the invaders’ fleet sailed up the Humber and the Ouse and blockaded the waterways by anchoring at Riccall. From this base they advanced, defeating Earl Morcar at the battle of Fulford, and seized York; retiring on the approach of English Harold to what the Anglo-Saxon Chronicle calls “Staenfordesbryege,” on Derwent, east of the city. In this we find the original spelling of Stamford Bridge, where the great battle which ended in the utter defeat of the invaders was fought and their leaders, Tostig and the gigantic Norwegian king, both slain. A fortnight later, and the Duke of Normandy had landed at Pevensey, the battle of Hastings had been lost and won, and the victor of Stamford Bridge himself lay dead.

Riccall, and the country between it and York, should therefore be interesting, as the scene of the earlier of these invasions. Aside from the village flows the Ouse, deep in its channel and navigable for barges, than which the Norwegian ships were not much larger; but it could not in these days harbour a fleet, even of these primitive transports. The village itself bears nothing on its face telling of great events, and is of a placid dulness, a character shared by Escrick and Deighton, on the way to York; the road itself gradually becoming an abomination of desolate fields until the village of Gate Fulford is reached. The Great North Road is a businesslike highway. It goes as direct as may be to its destination, and gets there quite regardless of scenery or interest to right or left. Thus, although Escrick Park is reputed to be a demesne of great beauty, and the village of Naburn, lying hidden off the road, is a typical old English village actually boasting a maypole, all the traveller along the road perceives is an unromantic vista of cabbage-fields and other necessary but uninspiring domestic vegetables, through a haze of a particularly beastly kind of black dust peculiar to the last few miles of the way into York. Fulford itself is no fit herald of a cathedral city. A wide street, the terminus of a tramway, a mile-long row of cottages, a would-be Gothic church; here you have it. Before you, by degrees, York unfolds itself, past the military barracks and nondescript, but always disappointing, streets, until, emerging from Fishergate, the ancient city, free from suburban excrescences, opens out, with the grim castle in front, and the Ouse and Skeldergate Bridge to the left. The so-called “London Road” lies away beyond the Ouse, its name referring to the Doncaster, Ferrybridge, Sherburn, and Tadcaster route taken by some of the old-time coaches. By that route York is most romantically entered, across Knavesmire, where York’s martyrs, felons, and traitors were done to death in the old days, and where the racecourse now runs; coming to the walled city through Micklegate, the finest of all the mediæval defensible gateways which are York’s especial glory. By the Selby route, through Gate Fulford and along Fishergate, we seem to slink in by the back door; through Micklegate we follow in the steps of those who have marched with armed hosts at their heels, and have entered with the unquestioned right of conquerors. Thus came the young Duke of York at the head of his victorious army, after the crowning victory of Towton; the first thing to meet his gaze his father’s head, fixed on the topmost turret, and crowned in mockery with a paper crown by the fierce Lancastrians under whose swords he had fallen at the battle of Wakefield, three months before. Filial piety could not in those times rest content with removing the head from its shameful eminence, and so the Duke caused the Earl of Devon and three others among his prisoners to be immediately beheaded and their heads to be placed there instead. Of such, and still more sanguinary, incidents is the ancient city of York composed.

[Picture: Micklegate Bar. (From an old Print)]

Micklegate, like the other “bars” of York, had its barbican, and equally with them, lost that martial outwork at the dawning of the nineteenth century. Its appearance then and now may with advantage be compared in the old print and the modern drawing, reproduced here, which also serve to show the difference between the road-surface of these times and of a century ago.

[Picture: Micklegate Bar: present day]

INDEX

Alconbury, 2

Alconbury Hill, 2, 121

Askerne, 236

Ayot Green, 87

Austerfield, 225

* * * * *

Balderton, 193

Baldock, 105

Barlby, 242

Barnby Moor, 209, 212–216

Barnet, 11, 75–79, 171

Barnet, Battle of, 80

Bawtry, 223–225

Bedford, Dukes of, 136

Beeston Green, 108

Bell Bar, 84

Bentley, 236

Biggleswade, 2, 107

Bloody Oaks, 157

Boulter, Edmund, 135

Bradford, William, 219, 225

Brampton, 105, 117

Brayton, 237

Brewster, William, 218–220

Brickwall, 87

Broadwater, 93

Brown’s Wells, 69

Buckden, 2, 114–117

Burghley House, 141–145, 149

* * * * *

Cantley, 226

Carlton-upon-Trent, 205

Chicken Hill, 113

Coaches—

“Amity,” Doncaster and Stamford, 212

“Courier,” Leeds, 41

“Edinburgh Mails” 15, 29–33, 184

“Edinburgh Express” 15, 114

“Edinburgh Stage” 34

“Express,” Leeds, 41

“Express,” York, 114

“Highflyer,” London and York, 76

“Highflyer,” London, York, and Edinburgh, 154

“Lord Nelson,” London and Edinburgh, 22, 233, 234

Mail Coaches, 30–33

“Nelson,” Wakefield and Lincoln, 232

“Post,” London and Carlisle, 22

“Royal Forester,” Doncaster and Nottingham, 232

“Royal Union,” London and Newcastle, 231

Stage Coaches, 33–49

“Stamford Regent” 18–21, 76, 107, 109, 138

“Stamford and Retford Auxiliary Mail” 212

“Union,” Leeds, 15, 41

“Wellington,” London and Newcastle, 15, 234

“York Four-Days Stage” 35

Coaching Accidents, 41

Coaching Notabilities—

Barclay of Ury, 169

Barker, of Welwyn, 88–90

Barker, John, 138

Cartwright, of Buckden, 114

Chaplin, William, 16–18, 73

Clark, George, 212, 214,

Dennetts, The, of Retford, 211

Hennesy, Tom, 88–90

Herring, J. F., 231–234

Horne, B. W., 17, 66

Mountain, Mrs., 18, 22–25

Nelson, Mrs., 18, 25

Percivals, The, of Wansford and Greetham, 138, 158, 211

Sherman, Edward, 14

Waterhouse, William, 16

Whincup, of Stamford, 149

Wood, Richard, 231, 232, 233

Colsterworth, 176

Cromwell, 205

Cromwell, Oliver, 188

Cross Hall, 113

Crow Park, 206

Cycling Notabilities—

Badlake, F. T., 112

Butterfield, W. J. H., 112

Edge, T. A., 111

Edge, S. F., 111

Fontaine, C. C., 112

Goodwin, F. R., 112

Hobson, T., 112

Holbein, M. A., 112

Hunt, G., 112

James, J. M., 111

Keith-Falconer, Hon. Ian, 111

Mills, G. P., 112, 113

Oxborrow, E., 113

Pope, H. R., 111

Sansom, H. H., 113

Shirley, R., 113

Shorland, F. W., 112

Thorpe, J. H. Stanley, 111

Wheaton, C, 111

Wilson, H. E., 112

Cycling Records, 110–113

* * * * *

_Dead Drummer_, _The_, 120

De Foe, Daniel, 135, 188

Deighton, 243

De Quincey, Thos., 25, 30, 101

Diddington, 113, 120

Digswell Hill, 87

Doncaster, 226–235

* * * * *

East End, Finchley, 65

East Markham, 208

Eaton, 210

Eaton Socon, 110, 113

Elkisley, 209

Empingham, 157

Escrick, 243

* * * * *

Finchley, 65

Finchley Common, 66–72, 171

Foston, 193

Fulford, 243

* * * * *

Gamston, 208

Ganwick Corner, 80

Gate Fulford, 243

General Post Office, 2, 25–33, 241

Girtford, 109

Gonerby Hill, 189–193

Grantham, 176, 180–188, 197

Graveley, 105

Great Casterton, 154

Great Gonerby, 189

Great Ponton, 178–180

Greenhill Cross, 73

Greetham, 158

* * * * *

Hadley Green, 2, 80

Hadley Highstone, 80

Hardwick, 117

Hatfield, 2, 84–87

_Heart of Midlothian_, 189–193

Herring, J. F., 231–234

Hicks’s Hall, 2, 49

Highgate, 2, 51–65

Highgate Archway, 63–65, 111

Highgate Hill, 57–62

Highway Acts, 9

Highwaymen, 62, 69–72, 124, 175

Bowland, John, 158

Everett and Williams, 69

Sheppard, Jack, 70

Spiggott, — 68

Turpin, Dick, 70, 193

Holloway, 2, 52

Horn Lane, 157

* * * * *

Inns (mentioned at length)

“Angel,” Grantham, 182

“Angel,” Islington, 49, 50

“Angel,” Stilton, 125

“Bald-faced Stag,” Finchley, 65

“Beehive,” Grantham, 188

“Bell,” Barnby Moor, 212–216

“Bell,” Stilton, 125–128

“Black Bull,” Witham Common, 158, 161

“Black Lion,” Scarthing Moor, 206

“Black Swan,” Holborn, 35

“Black Swan,” York, 35

“Blue Bell,” Barnby Moor, 212–216

“Blue Bull,” Witham Common, 161

“Blue Horse,” Great Ponton, 180

“Brampton Hut” 117

“Brown Cow,” Doncaster, 232–233

“Bull and Mouth,” St. Martin’-le-Grand, 13–15

“Clinton Arms,” Newark, 198, 200

“Crown,” Bawtry, 223

“Crown,” Selby, 241

“Crown and Woolpack,” nr Stilton, 124

“Dirt House,” Finchley, 66

“Duke of York,” Ganwick Corner, 80

“Gatehouse Tavern,” Highgate, 59

“George,” Buckden, 114

“George,” Grantham, 182–184

“George,” Stamford, 146

“George and Blue Boar,” Holborn, 18

“Green Man,” Barnet, 76–79

“Green Man,” Brown’s Wells, 69

“Green Man and Still,” Oxford Street, 13, 18

“Greetham Inn” 158, 211

“Griffin” Whetstone, 72

“Haycock,” Wansford, 136–140, 211

“Jockey House” 209

“Kate’s Cabin, 132

“Lord Kitchener,” Stevenage, 105

“Markham Moor” 208

“Newcastle Arms,” Tuxford, 207

“Norman Cross” 129

“Old Castle,” Stevenage, 101

“Old Red Lion,” Barnet, 79

“Old White Lion,” Finchley, 66

“Our Mutual Friend,” 104

“Peacock,” Islington, 49

“Ram,” Doncaster, 231

“Ram,” Newark, 203

“Ram Jam,” Stretton, 158–161

“Red Lion,” Barnet, 76–79

“Salutation,” Doncaster, 231

“Saracen’s Head,” Snow Hill, 21–25

“Saracen’s Head,” Newark, 191, 198

“Scrooby” 216

“Spread Eagle,” Gracechurch Street, 13, 18

“Swan,” Stevenage, 96

“Swan-with-two-Necks,” Gresham Street, 13–17

“Volunteer,” Doncaster, 235

“Waggon and Horses,” Stamford, 152

“Wellington,” Welwyn, 90

“Wheatsheaf,” Alconbury Hill, 121

“White Hart,” Retford, 211–213

“White Hart,” Welwyn, 88

“White Horse,” Eaton Socon, 110

“White Swan,” Biggleswade, 107

“Whittington Stone Tavern,” 56

Islington, 2, 49–51

* * * * *

Jeanie Deans, 190–192, 198, 204

Jockey House, 209

* * * * *

Kate’s Cabin, 132

Knavesmire, 244

Knebworth, 92

* * * * *

Lambert, Daniel, 152

Lannock Hill, 105

Lemsford Mills, 87

Letchworth, 103, 106

Little Heath, 82

Long Bennington, 193

Lord of Burleigh, Tennyson’s, 141–145

Lower Codicote, 108

Lytton family, Earls Lytton, 92

* * * * *

Macadam, J. L., 6, 10, 12, 31

Mace, Thos, 6–8

Markham Moor, 208

Marston, 193

Matcham’s Bridge, 120

Metcalf, John, 10

Morison, Fynes, 97

Morpeth, 32

* * * * *

Newark-upon-Trent, 193–204

Newton, Sir Isaac, 176

_Nicholas Nickleby_, 22, 110, 184

Norman Cross, 129–133

North Finchley, 66

North Muskham, 205

North Road Cycling Club, 110, 113, 114

* * * * *

Old-time Travellers—

Bacon, Francis Viscount Verulam, 61

Barclay of Ury, 169

Burke, Edmund, 69

Calderwood of Coltness, Mrs., 128, 171

Campbell, Lord Chancellor, 173

Cary, Sir Robert, 166

Charles I., 105, 149

Eldon, Earl of, 172

George III., 165

George IV., 165

Gladstone, W. E., 200

James I., 165, 194

Jeffrey, Lord, 184

Jonson, Ben, 166

Lepton, John, 166

Londonderry, Marquis of, 170

Mansfield, Earl of, 171

Minto, Earl of, 71

Misson, Henri, 51

Monboddo, Lord, 170

Pepys, Samuel, 73, 79, 105, 117

Perlin, Estienne, 146

Powell, Foster, 167

Skene, Dr., 171

Sterne, Rev. Laurence, 214

Thoresby, Ralph, 124, 175

Thornhill, Cooper, 126, 167

Tucker, Henry St. George, 185

Twining, Rev. Thomas, 146, 189, 214

Wharton, Sir Ralph, 175

Woulfe, Peter, 172

Old-time Travelling, 3–8, 11, 36–47, 96–101, 164–175, 184–186, 204–206, 214

* * * * *

Palmer, John, 30

Pedestrian Records, 166–169

Pilgrim Fathers, The, 218–220, 225

Posting, 98–101

Potter’s Bar, 80–82

Powell, Foster, 167

Prickler’s Hill, 74

* * * * *

Railways—37, 46, 75, 82, 93, 125, 174, 228, 234, 236

Great Northern, 174, 228, 236

London and Birmingham (now London and North-Western) 75

Midland, 234

North Eastern, 236

Ranskill, 216

Retford, 208, 210–213

Riccall, 242

Roman Roads, 2–4

Rossington Bridge, 226

* * * * *

St. Martin’-le-Grand, 2, 14, 25–27

Sandy, 108

Sawtry St. Andrews, 124, 176

Sawtry Abbey, 124

Scarthing Moor, 205–207

Scott, Sir Walter, 51, 162, 164, 190, 192, 198, 204

Scrooby, 216–220

Selby, 238–242

Shaftholme Junction, 236

Sibson, 136

“Six Hills,” The, Stevenage, 94–96

South Muskham, 203, 205

Stamford, 140, 145–153

Stanborough, 87

Stangate Hill, 124

Statute Labour, 9

Stevenage, 2 93–96, 101–105

Stibbington, 136

Stilton, 9, 124–128

Stoke Rochford, 178

Stonegate Hole, 176

Stretton, 154, 161

Sutton-upon-Trent, 205

* * * * *

“Tally-ho Corner” 66

Telford, James, 10, 13, 31

Tempsford, 109

Thornhaugh, 140

Tickencote, 154

“Tingey’s Corner,” 108

Tophall, 226

Toplar’s Hill, 107

Torworth, 216

Trent, River, 203–205

Turnpike Acts, 9

Turnpike Gates, 10, 58, 59, 73–75, 82, 87, 105, 209, 218, 242

Turpin’s Oak, 70

Tuxford, 205–208

* * * * *

Wansford, 134

Water Newton, 133–140

Welwyn, 2, 88–91, 116

West Markham, 208

Weston, 206

Whetstone, 72

Whittington, Sir Richard, 53–56

Witham Common, 158, 161, 175

Woolmer Green, 93

Woolsthorpe Manor-House, 176

Wyboston, 109

Yaxley Barracks, 129–132

York, 244–246

Yorkshire, 220–223

Young, Revd. Edward, 90

FOOTNOTES.

{40} These are pre-war (1914–18) prices.

{117} He was baptised in the church of St. Bride, Fleet Street, according to a discovery more recently made; and he would thus appear really to have been a Londoner.

{165} Tokens in imitation of the old guineas, which bore on their reverse the George and Dragon device now used on our modern sovereigns. The token represented the king on horseback (the Hanoverian White Horse), with the legend “To Hanover.”