Chapter I: Preface

It would be difficult to find a subject of more universal interest than that of dress, and hosts of books have been written which deal with the attire that has been adopted at different times and by various nations or social classes. The ornamental and artistic sides of the question have also received much consideration, but the volumes that have appeared serve chiefly as works of reference. The present book aims at being of more immediate interest and usefulness; it starts with things as they are, and is really a popular contribution to the natural history of man.

On all sides the advantages of observation and the need for the nature-study method in education are being rightly urged, but there is a tendency to narrow the purview. Anything in our environment is worthy of notice, and though attention is well directed towards that which is least artificial, we should not leave man and his works altogether on one side. There is material for observation, research, and deduction, even in a bowler hat and a cut-away coat.

One of the pleasantest features in connection with the making of this book has been the kind and ready help which I have received from all sides. Here and there throughout the text the names of friends and correspondents who have given their assistance have been mentioned. To these I offer my hearty thanks, as well as to the following, who with suggestions, information, or with material for illustrations, have contributed in no small way to the interest of the book: Messrs. Fownes Brothers & Company, Mr. Allan A. Hooke, Mr. W. S. Ward, Mr. Karl, of Messrs. Nathan & Company, Messrs. Tress & Company, Messrs. Lincoln & Bennett, Mr. M. D. Hill, the Rev. A. W. Upcott, Head Master of Christ's Hospital, Miss Clark, Miss Hodgson, the Rev. R. Ashington Bullen, Mr. Henry Miller, of the Church Association, Mr. Ravenscroft, of Messrs. Ede Sons & Ravenscroft, Mr. Paley Baildon, Mr. George Hertslet, of the Lord Chamberlain's Office, Messrs. Wilkinson & Company, Mr. C. M. Mühlberg, Mr. W. S. Parker, of Messrs. Debenhams, Ltd., Capt. H. Trench, Major J. W. Mallet, of the _Army and Navy Gazette_, Mr. Basil White, of Messrs. Hawkes & Company, Mr. W. H. Jesson, Messrs. Souter & Company, Mr. William Lawrence, Mr. Heather Bigg, Dr. J. Cantlie, and the Rt. Hon. Viscountess Harberton.

A glance at the bibliography, which is given on pages 363-7, will show the principal books and papers to which reference has been made.

In connection with the illustrations, special thanks must be given to Monsieur Maurice Sand, the Editor of the _Review of the University of Brussels_, for his kind permission to reproduce a number of the figures used to illustrate a translation of Sir George Darwin's article. These are Figures 14, 17, 18, 19, 21, 22, 23, 26, 27, 30, 31, 33, 46, 48, 62, 63, and 82. Acknowledgments are due to Mr. St. John Hope for Figures 86-8, to Messrs. A. & C. Black for Figures 123 and 124 and 132 and 133, and to Messrs. Prewett & Co. for Figures 111 and 112.

For the original of Plate II, I am indebted to the kindness of Captain R. Ford, of Plate III to Mr. Henry Stevens; Plate IV has been taken from a brass rubbing in Rugby School Museum, through the kind offices of Mr. J. M. Hardwich. I have to thank Mr. R. Bamber for the original of Plate VIII, which was obtained through his instrumentality. Figure B of Plate IX was kindly contributed by the Rev. A. W. Upcott, Head Master of Christ's Hospital, and Figures B and C on Plate X were copied from Moseley's "Voyage of the 'Challenger,'" by the kind permission of Mr. John Murray, while Figure D is due to the courtesy of General Robley. Plate XI is reprinted from _The Reliquary_, by the kind permission of Messrs. Bemrose and Sons, and the source of other illustrations is acknowledged beneath them, while the classic collection of pictures which were brought together by the late Mr. F. W. Fairholt to illustrate his "Costume in England" has proved, as will be seen, of the utmost service.

In conclusion, I have much pleasure in calling attention to the time and care which Mr. W. J. Webb has expended upon the figures, which are a feature of the book; and I must mention the willing help which I have been afforded in a number of details by Miss Amy Astbury and Mr. Bernard Weaver.

WILFRED MARK WEBB.

ODSTOCK, HANWELL,
_November, 1907_.

CONTENTS

I
THE THRALL OF DRESS PAGE
The principles of evolution applied to clothes 1

II
THE ORIGIN OF DRESS 6

III
DEVELOPMENT OF THE MODERN COAT
The ancestral shawl--Problematical buttons 15

IV
BUTTONS AS CHRONICLES
Episodes in the later history of the coat and cuffs 25

V
COLLARS AND BANDS
Nicks in coat lapels--The why and wherefore of the white shirt
front 41

VI
VESTIGES IN THE HAT
How hats were evolved--Why plumes are on the left side--The
growth of the busby--Helmets and cocked hats 49

VII
SHOES AND STOCKINGS
Early foot-gear--The origin of the clock--A modern imitation of
tattooing--Gaily coloured garters 62

VIII
PETTICOATS AND TROUSERS
The belted plaid and kilt--Early skirts--The antiquity of
trousers--Trouser stripes 72

IX
COATS OF ARMS
Signet rings--Armorial bearings--Escutcheons--Crests--Badges 83

X
GLOVES AND MITTENS
Origin of the baby's glove--Fourchettes--The "points" on the
backs of gloves 94

XI
TAGS, PINS, AND BALDRICS
Laces--The evolution and vagaries of the safety-pin--Primitive
methods of carrying burdens as illustrated by muff-chains,
baldrics, and yokes 100

XII
ORNAMENTS
Primitive necklaces--Finger rings--The origin of the hair
comb--Buttons--Studs--Flowers--Feathers--Amulets 111

XIII
HAIR DRESSING
Head shaving--Wigs that are still worn--Roman curls and fringes 126

XIV
SPECIAL DRESSES
Fashions kept up by ceremonies--Survivals in special
costume--Flowing garments 135

XV
SERVANTS' DRESS
The prototypes of liveries--Reminiscences of George II and
George III--Origin of the page-boy's buttons--The jockey
cap--Aprons 139

XVI
COCKADES
The cockade a degenerated chaperon--The varieties of the
cockade--Cockade wearers 152

XVII
CHILDREN'S DRESS
Survivals in children's dress--Special school costumes--The
blue-coat boy--Public school boys--Adoption of special dress
at girls' schools 162

XVIII
WEDDING GARMENTS
The veil--Bridesmaids and bribery--Old shoes--Orange blossom 175

XIX
MOURNING
Colours associated with mourning--Widows' weeds--Perennial
mourning 181

XX
COSTUME CONNECTED WITH RELIGION
The surplice and "the cloth"--The civil origin of
vestments--Fine vestments--Processional vestments, so
called--Nuns' dress--The choker 184

XXI
SUNDAY CLOTHES
The significance of Sunday clothes--The wearing of hats in
church by ladies 205

XXII
ACADEMICAL DRESS
Gowns and hanging sleeves--The forerunner of the hood--The
origin of the doctor's hat--The evolution of the mortar-board 208

XXIII
LEGAL DRESS
Vestiges of the coif--Hoods and gowns--Signs of mourning 215

XXIV
STATE AND COURT ATTIRE
Coronation dress--Parliamentary robes--Mistakes in Court
dress--Vestiges of the wig and of the chaperon--Court cards 221

XXV
SURVIVALS IN MILITARY UNIFORMS
Armour--Prickers for flint locks--Forage cords--Reminiscences
of gallantry--Regimental badges--Courtship colours 233

XXVI
NAVAL UNIFORM
Supposed survivals--Petticoats and wide breeches 251

XXVII
THE COSTUME OF PUPPETS
Punch and Judy--Fashion dolls--Dolls in swaddling clothes--The
Egyptian "shabbies" 253

XXVIII
THE CLOWN AND PAINTING THE BODY
The clown's dress--Savage painting and survivals of
it--Tattooing--Patches and false complexions--Masks 269

XXIX
STAGE COSTUMES
The harlequin, pantaloon, columbine, and acrobat 282

XXX
NIGHTDRESS
Bands on nightgowns--Nightcaps--Night attire worn in the
streets 287

XXXI
THE DRESS OF ANIMALS
Natural representatives of clothes--Horse trappings--Amulets on
harness--Dogs' disguises--Fashions in the form of animals 291

XXXII
COLOUR
Importance of colour--Instinctive love of bright
hues--Desirability of coloured clothes and gay scenes--Colour
and complexion 305

XXXIII
PATTERNS
Ancient designs--Checks and tartans--Parti-coloured
clothes--Evolution of ornamentation 311

XXXIV
IMPRESSIONS TO BE GAINED FROM DRESS
Clues from clothes--Individuality not disguised by them--Modern
dress of other countries--Significance of clothes 315

XXXV
THE EFFECT OF CLOTHES UPON THE INDIVIDUAL
The origin of stays--Tight lacing no new thing--Its
effects--Mr. Heather Bigg on the need for support--The ideal
foot--Skull deformities--Padding 322

XXXVI
FURTHER EFFECTS OF CLOTHES ON THE INDIVIDUAL
Mental effects of different clothes--Preferences of girls for
certain articles of dress--Movements that depend upon the
presence or absence of clothes 339

XXXVII
THE RISE AND FALL OF FASHIONS
Reason why fashions are followed--Gay clothes seen when periods
of depression are over--Condemnation of fashions by the
clergy--Quakers--Sumptuary laws--The killing of fashions 343

XXXVIII
DRESS REFORM
Clothes to be avoided--Need for warmer garments--"Rational"
dress for women 354