Chapter XLII: Conclusion (1)

By way of ending, we would again point out that the account which we have given of survivals in dress and their history, shows that they in their development are governed by the same laws as those which act on the bodies and organs of living creatures, and we hope that what we have gathered together may be taken as a small contribution to "the proper study of mankind," which we have been told times out of number is nothing more nor less than "man."

BIBLIOGRAPHY

The small numbers given in the text correspond with those printed here.

NO. PAGE
1. "The Origin of Species," by Charles Darwin. (First edition
published 1859) 2

2. "Development in Dress," by George H. Darwin. _Macmillan's
Magazine_, September, 1872, page 410 3

3. "_Pithecanthropus erectus_, eine Menschenaehnliche
Uebergangsform aus Java," by Eug. Dubois, Batavia, 1894 7

4. "Journal during the voyage of H.M.S. Beagle," by Charles
Darwin. Minerva Library, 1889, page 154 11

5. "The Industrial Arts of Denmark," by J. J. A. Worsaae.
1882, page 48 18

6. See Number 2, page 412 30

7. Notice of Lecture given by Mr. Allan Poe Newcombe, in the
Sandwich Islands. Quoted from the _Honolulu Commercial
Advertiser_ in _The English Mechanic_, No. 1934 49

8. See Number 6 58

9. "The Human Beast of Burden," by Otis T. Mason. Smithsonian
Report of the United States National Museum, 1887, page
246 110

10. "Anthropology," by Edward B. Tylor. 1892, page 236 111

11. "The British Lake Dwellings near Glastonbury." 1896,
page 13 117

12.} "The Gem Cutter's Craft," by Leopold Claremont. 1906, 123
13.} pages 75 and 87 124

14.} "Some Suggestions as to the Origin of the Penannular
15.} Brooch," by Edward Lovett. _The Reliquary_, Vol. X,
1904, page 15 125

16. "Races of Man," by Oscar Peschel. English Translation,
1889, page 174 136

17. "The Cyclopædia of the British Costumes, from the
Metropolitan Repository of Fashions." 1826, page 196 145

18. A letter in _The Morning Post_ of November 12th, 1897,
from Messrs. André & Co. 153

19. "English Costume," painted and described by Dion Clayton
Calthrop. 1906, page 130 156

20. Article on "Cockades" in _The Sketch_ for March 9th, 1898 158

21. See Number 19 159

22. "Costume from Monumental Brasses," by Herbert Druitt. 1906 165

23. "Rational Dress _v._ Industrialism," _The Rational Dress
Gazette_, No. 88, by Dr. Alice Vickery, page 356 165

24. "Shoe-throwing at Weddings," by James E. Crombie, _Folk
Lore_, Vol. VI (1895), page 258 176

25. "Ecclesiastical Vestments, their Development and History,"
by R. A. S. Macalister. 1896, page 140 185

26. "Vestiarium Christianium: the Origin and Gradual
Development of the Dress of the Holy Ministry in the
Church," by the Rev. Wharton D. Marriott. 1861, page 48 188

27. See Number 25, page 21 189

28. A letter in _The Guardian_, by G. C. Coulton, August, 1907 194

29. Paedag. Lib. iii., page 300 205

30. See Number 22, page 122 210

31. "College Caps and Doctors' Hats," by Professor E. C.
Clark. _Archæological Journal_, Vol. LXI. 1894, page 36 213

32. See Number 22, page 224 216

33. "The Sacring of the English Kings," by J. Wickham Legg.
_Archæological Journal_, Vol. XLI. 1894, page 35 221

34. "History of the King's Body Guard of the Yeomen of the
Guard," by Colonel Sir Reginald Hennell. 1904, plate
facing page 32 225

{"Uniforms of our Fighting Forces, Regimental Survivals
35.{ and Peculiarities," by R. Caton Woodville. _Cassell's
36.{ Magazine_, 1906, page 524; and "Peculiarities of British
{ Army Dress," by Walter Wood. _Pall Mall Magazine_, Vol.
{ XI. 1897, page 527 238

37. "Yester Year," by A. Robida, English translation, page 83 253

38. A Lecture given by Mr. George Heppel before the
Hammersmith Literary and Scientific Society 253

39. "Naples in 1888," by Eustace Neville Rolffe 254

40. "Notes by a Naturalist on H.M.S. Challenger," by Professor
Moseley 272

41. See Number 40, page 423 273

42. "Costume in England," by F. W. Fairholt. Revised Edition,
1885, Vol. II, page 303 278

43. "The Whole Stock of a Coquette," by Helen C. Gordon.
_English Illustrated Magazine_, February, 1901, page 451 279

44. "Costume: Fanciful, Historical, and Theatrical," by Mrs.
Aria. 1906, page 199 281

45. "Curiosities of Literature," by Disraeli. Vol. I, page 186 283

46. See Number 19, page 20 287

47. See Number 42, page 240 289

48. "Suggested Moorish Origin of certain Amulets in use in
Great Britain," by Dr. Plowright. _The Reliquary,_ Vol.
XII, 1906, page 106 293

49. "Horse Brasses," by Lina Eckenstein. _The Reliquary,_ Vol.
XII, 1906, page 251 293

50. "Animal Artisans," by C. J. Cornish. 1906, page 251 300

51. Article by Mr. Yoxall in _The Journal of Gipsy Lore_, new
series, Vol. I, part I, 1907 306

52. Article by Mr. J. Chevasse. _Evening News_, April 5th,
1907 316

53. Article in _The Daily Mail_, September 4th, 1907 317

54. "Essays on Museums and other subjects connected with
Natural History," by Sir William Flower. 1898, page 350 324

55. See Number 37, page 91 325

56. "The History of the Corset," by Geraldine Vane and F. Glen
Walker. _Lady's Realm_ Summer Number, 1901 326

57. "Spinal Curvatures," by Heather Bigg. 1905 326

58. See Number 54, page 347 335

59. Article in _The Morning Leader_ of April 17th, 1906 339

60. "Physical Efficiency," by James Cantlie. 1906 355

61. Leaderette in _The Field_, August 29th, 1902, page 452 359

62. "Costume of Colonial Times," by Alice Morse Earle, page 28 359

63. "Why Won't They Alter It?" by Bernard O'Connor, _Rational
Dress Gazette_, No. 87, page 352 361

INDEX

NOTE.--_The numbers in heavy type refer to the pages on which figures will be found._

Abbesses, costume of, 198

Abergavenny, the Marquis of, wears badges, 91

Academical dress, 208
-- hoods, 210

Achievements, styles of, 87

Acrobat, dress of, 286
-- tights of, 286
-- trunk hose of, 286

Admiral, uniform of, worn by coxswains at Eton on the Fourth of
June, 171

Africa, the West Coast of, little clothing worn on, 8

Aggries, 113

Agilbert, Bishop of Paris, ring of, 114

Aiglets, 100

Aiguillettes, 101, =101=
-- Mr. Caton Woodville on, 240
-- of aides-de-camp, 240
-- -- footmen, 141, =141=, 240
-- -- Household Cavalry, 240
-- -- a Knight of the Bath, 231
-- -- -- Knight of St. Michael and St. George, 231

Ailette, 84

Albe, 198, 199
-- of James II, 221
-- originally a secular garment, 189
-- replaced by surplice, 185

Alhambra, 293

Almshouses, costumes of, 170

Almuce, 198, 199
-- forerunner of the tippet, 212

Ambassadors, cockade of Danish, 160
-- -- -- English, 160
-- -- -- Foreign, 160
-- -- -- French, 160

American, dress of the, 318

Amethyst, supposed powers of the, 124

Amice, 200, 221

Amulet, arrow-head, 296

Amulets buried with the head of ancient Egyptians, 122
-- crescent-shaped, 293
-- heart-shaped, 295, 296
-- worn by Egyptian children, 123

Andaman Islanders, painting the body among, 276

André, Messrs., & Co., on cockades, 153

Anglo-Saxon, bandaged stocking of, 67, =67=

Animal actors, clothes of, 301

Animals, colour of, in connection with ceremonials, 303
-- curious variations of, produced under domestication, 302
-- spotted when young, 94
-- mutilation of, 302

Anklets, 9

Anne, apron of Queen, 150
-- Consort of James I, glove of, 98, =99=

Antiquities, Museum of, Copenhagen, 178

Apparel of chasuble called an orphrey, 196
-- on albe, possibly remains of clavi, 193

Appendix, vermiform, 3

Apron, 149
-- of barge-woman, milk-woman, and hospital nurse, 150
-- -- bishop, a vestige of the cassock, 200
-- -- housemaid, 149
-- -- Judy, 263, =263=
-- -- masons, 232
-- -- nuns, 202
-- -- Queen Anne, 150

Aprons, tiger skin, of Leicestershire Regiment, 249

Arab women, 122
-- -- ideas of modesty, 207

Arabs use folds of robes as pockets, 110

Archers, Scottish, coats of, 226

Aria, Mrs., on the ancestress of the straight-fronted specialité
corset, 337
-- -- on the unwritten laws that rule the wearing of a mask, 281

Armlets conferred on soldiers, 114
-- need for cooling, in some climates, 114

Armorial bearings on ladies' dresses, 84, =85=

Armour, 83
-- a development of dress, 12
-- of chargers, 292

Arms, coat of, 83
-- of England, 86
-- -- schools and colleges, 90
-- -- Thomas à Becket, =198=

Arran murder case, 178

Arrow-head amulets, 296

Arrow-heads, flint, as pendants, 123

Arts, gown of master of, 210
-- hood of bachelor of, 212

Atella, celebrated for Italian farces, 254

Athletic clubs, parti-coloured dress of, 313

Aurelian, distribution of oraria by, 192

Austria, Emperor of, 244

Austrian, dress of the, 318

Axe for killing wounded horses, 242

Ayahs, nose-rings of, 111

Babylon, finger-rings in, 114

Baby's glove without fingers, 94, =95=

Bachelor of Arts, hood of, 212

Badge and crest, difference between, 90
-- broad arrow, 91
-- of Black Prince, 88
-- -- Edward III, 91
-- -- the porters of the Inner Temple, 91

Badges, hereditary, 90
-- signs derived from royal, 91
-- regimental, 243, 245
-- of Gloucestershire regiment, 245
-- -- private firemen, 91

Badges of the Yeomen of the Guard, 224, =224=
-- -- Watermen, 91
-- worn by the Marquis of Abergavenny, 91

Bag-wig, vestige of the, 133, =134=, 143, =143=, 228, =229=

Baildon, Mr. Paley, on new garments put over old, 148
-- -- -- -- the coif, 216

Baldric, 106
-- modern use of, 106
-- ornamented with bells, 108, =108=

Ballrooms, bare necks in, 14

Band, black on arm as mourning, 182
-- chin, 202, =203=
-- hat, 52

Bandaged stockings of Anglo-Saxons, 67

Bandages, leg, 66, =66=, =67=

Bandbox, 46, =47=

Bandoleer, on baldric, 108

Bands, 44, =45=
-- of barristers, 44
-- -- blue-coat boys, 44, =45=
-- -- choristers at Jesus College, Cambridge, 45, =45=
-- -- Jan Steen, 46, =46=
-- -- John Pym, 46, =46=
-- -- Milton, 46
-- -- small boys, 47, =47=
-- -- the legal profession, 219
-- -- Winchester scholars, 169
-- on a lady's nightgown, 288, =289=
-- worn with a black Geneva gown, 44, 185

Bantams, booted, 303
-- frizzled, 303

Baptism, vestments used at, 164

Barbarians wore trousers, 77, =78=

Barge women, apron of, 150; Plate VIII facing page 150
-- -- costume of, 110
-- -- sun-bonnet of, 61; Plate VIII facing page 150

Barme-cloth (apron), 150

Barons of the Exchequer, robes of, 218

Barristers' bands, 44
-- gown, 218, =219=
-- wigs, 132

Basquine, 325

Baton of drum-major, 241
-- -- Field-Marshal, 223

Beadle, dress of, 147, =264=
-- in Punch and Judy, 147, 262, =264=

Beads as currencies, 113
-- blue popo, worth their weight in gold, 113
-- early used in England, 112
-- from Egypt, 113
-- of the prehistoric Egyptians, 112
-- still fashionable, 112

_Beagle_, H.M.S., voyage of, 11

Beard of Edward II, 130
-- -- -- III, 129

Beards, closely shaved by Normans, 129
-- -- -- in Edward IV's time, 130
-- cut by Romans, 129
-- parted or trimmed by Saxons, 129

Bedford, Duchess of, riding habit of, 251

Bedgown, woman executed in a, 290

Beefeaters, cap of, 168

Bells as ornaments, derived from flowers, 314

Belt of groom, =140=
-- -- -- origin of, 139

Belts, Dr. Cantlie on the use of, 356
-- worn by navvies, 329

Bernard, on blowing the nose on the chasuble, 195

Bhurtpore, battle of, 244

Bib, 150
-- of infant, 167

Bibliography, 363-7

Bigg, Mr. Heather, on the erect position of man, 330, 331
-- -- -- -- -- rapid loss of beauty in native girls, 328
-- -- -- -- -- use of stays, 326, 327

Billet, sign of the Crooked, 146

Binder of infant, 163

Biretta, evolution of, 213

Bishop, hat of, 214, =214=
-- method of buttoning trousers, 252
-- rochet, chimere, and lawn sleeves of, 199

Black as mourning, 181

Bloomer, Mrs., 81, 356
-- -- dress of, 361

Bloomers, Dr. Bernard O'Connor on, 361

Blouse, blue, of the butcher, 307, 320

Blue blouse of butcher, 307, 320
-- coat boys, 167
-- -- -- bands of, 44, =45=
-- favours, 307

Boadicea, dress of, 312

Boar, wild, spotted when young, 94

Bohemians, the King of the, wore no ostrich feathers, 91

Body, clothes used to alter the shape of, 337

Boiler cleaners, combination garments of, 320

Bone inserted into prehistoric skulls, 336
-- pin, 105

Boots, jack, 235
-- of bridegrooms removed by brides in Russia, 177
-- ornamentation of modern, 62, =63=
-- top, 65, =65=
-- -- upper parts now immovable, 66, =66=

Borough Councillors, robes of, 138

Bouquets carried by coxswains on the Fourth of June at Eton, 171

Bows inside ladies' hats, 57, =58=
-- of silk ribbon inside hat, 54, =55=

Boy catching an object in his lap, 341

Boys, blue-coat, 167
-- colour preferences of, 307
-- dressed as soldiers, 163
-- petticoats of, 165

Brace in which the straps are not united, 356

Bracelets, 9
-- need to be cooled in some climates, 114

Brandenburg, Albrect von, with two palls, 197

Brandon, John, brass to, 38

Brasses, 38, Plate IV, 86, =86=, 234, =234=
-- chrysome, 164

Brats, 300

Breast cloth of nun, 202, =203=
-- plate of horse, amulets on, 294

Breasts, bare, in Ancient Egypt, =74=, 75
-- -- in Korea, 75, =75=
-- -- in the time of James I, 76

Breeches, knee, 79
-- of Lord Darnley, 286
-- origin of the word, 311
-- petticoat, of sailors, 252
-- plush, 140, =141=
-- stuffed, 337
-- Venetian, of pantaloon, 284

Bridesmaids, origin of presents made to, by bridegroom, 175

Bristol, Red Maid School of, 168

Broad arrow badge, 91

Bronze Age chieftains, dress of, 18, =19=
-- -- people wore deerskin cloaks retaining horns, 117
-- pins, 105

Brooch, 122
-- safety-pin like an Etruscan, 102, =103=
-- the buckle, a, without hasp, 125

Brooches, pin ring, 125
-- to fasten tunic, 17, =17=

Buckle, 125

Bulgaria, shoe money in, 177

Burden, primitive method of carrying a, 106, =107=

Busbies, caricatures of, 247, 248

Busby, 238
-- development of, 59
-- of Rifle Brigade, 242
-- origin of the, Sir George Darwin on, 58, =59=
-- red flap on, 59, =59=

Buskins, 195

Bust, padding used to improve the, 338

Butcher's blue blouse, 320

Butterman, white clothes of, 320

Button, 118
-- covered with crape, 243
-- Mr. P. W. Reynolds on the survival of a, 248

Buttonholes, exaggerated on uniforms, 40
-- knotched, 146
-- laced, 146
-- on the backs of coats, 27, =27=, 28, =28=

Buttons, 24, 248
-- antiquity of, 120
-- as chronicles, 25
-- done up differently by men and women, 21, =23=
-- horizontal row of, on sleeve, 36, =36=
-- meaningless, on ladies' dresses, 120
-- numerous, on sleeve of undervest, 38; Plate IV, facing page 38
-- of brass on Dutch skeleton dress, 145, =145=
-- -- Legion of Honour, 158
-- -- man's coat on right side, 20, =20=
-- -- page boys, 144, =145=
-- -- woman's coat on left side, 20, =21=
-- on coats of Grenadier Guards, 29
-- -- cuffs, 35, =35=
-- -- overcoats of Commissionaires, 30
-- -- postilion's jackets, 38
-- -- sleeves of clergy, 36
-- -- the back of coats, 26, =26=, =27=, =28=, =29=, =31=, =32=,
=33=, =34=
-- -- the back of tramway driver's coats, 30, =31=
-- problematical, 15

Buttons replaced by knobs in the East, 20
-- vertical row on sleeve, =37=

Calthrop, Mr., on survivals of the chaperon, 158
-- -- -- the costume of Harlequin, 283
-- -- -- -- evolution of the cockade, 156
-- -- -- -- origin of the cockade, 159

Camels, cowry shells on the trappings of, 297, =299=

Cameron Erracht tartan, 242
-- tartan, 242

Canaries, yellow, 303

Cane of drill sergeant, 241

Canes, be-ribboned, 124
-- tasselled, 125

Cannibalism, probable origin of, 337

Canterbury Cathedral, shield, helmet, and surcoat of Black Prince
in, 87, =88=, =89=

Cantlie, Dr., on short jackets, 356
-- -- -- the effect of insufficient clothing, 355, =357=
-- -- -- -- use of belts, 356

Cap, college, 47, 169, 212, =214=
-- Hungarian, 238
-- judge's sentence, 217
-- line of Lancers, 241
-- livery, 146
-- of Beefeaters, 168
-- -- dignity, ecclesiastical, 213
-- -- housemaid, 149
-- -- Hungarian peasant, 59, =59=
-- -- nuns, 201, =203=, 204
-- -- the Lancers, a Polish head-dress, 239
-- Scotch, streamers of, 53, =54=
-- statute, 168, 348
-- Tudor flat, 214

Cape, combined with hood, =156=, 157

Caps not to be worn by married women, 350

Cards, playing, show Tudor dresses, 231

Carolines, haircombs of West, 118

Cases of brass for waiters' buttons, 144

Cassock, 200
-- of Benedictines, 198
-- once generally worn, 186

Casula, forerunner of the chasuble, 192

Cater cap, 212

Cattle, hornless, 303

Cavalryman, modern, compared with Cromwell's Ironsides, 237, =237=

Cave men, drawings of, 8, =9=, 10
-- -- painting of the body by, 270
-- -- wore ornaments but no clothing, 8

Ceremony, primitive dress worn on occasions of, 5, 135

Chaco of Highland Light Infantry, 241
-- -- Scottish Rifles, 241

Chain mail, 233, 234, =234=

Chains for the neck in Richard II's time, 113
-- of Mayors, origin of, 113

Chancellor of a University, robes of a, 210

Chapel keeper at Wellington Barracks, top hat of, 248

Chaperon, 152
-- development of, =156=, 157, =157=
-- of Richard II's time, 157
-- survival of, 228
-- vestige on gowns of City Livery Companies, 231
-- -- -- mantles of knights, 158, =230=

Chaplet of flowers used after baptism, 164

Charles I regulates clerical costume, 185
-- II, formation of Guards by, 246

Chasuble, 193, =194=
-- casula, the forerunner of, 192

Chauffeurs' cockades, 160

Checks, 311

Chemise, 288
-- gauze, of Merveilleuses, 346

Chevasse, Mr., on individuality shown by clothes, 316

Children carried on the left arm, 22
-- dressed like their parents, 162
-- sucking the left breast, 24

Chimere, 199

Chimpanzee, hair of, 6

China, painted pasteboard figures burnt at funerals in, 274
-- puppet-show in, 259
-- the use of paint by women in, 275

Chin band, 201, 202, =203=

Chinese women, stunted foot of, 335

Chinook Indians, deforming the heads of children, 335

Chiton, 187

Choker, 200

Choristers at Jesus College, Cambridge, bands of, 45, =45=

Chrism cloth, 164

Christians, dress of ancient, 187
-- early, wore the same costume at worship as at home, 189

Christ's Hospital, 167

Chrysalis, 163

Chrysolite as a detector of poison, 124

Chrysome, 164
-- brasses, 164

Chulos in bull fight, red rag of, 306

Churches, Gothic, compared with hennin-like head-dress, 50, =51=

Clans, tartans of Scotch, 312
-- with several tartans, 312

Claremont, Mr., on opals and bad luck, 124

Clark, Professor E. C., on college caps, 213

Clavi, 191

Clement, St., on special dress for worship, 205

Clergy, adoption of vestments by English High Church, 192
-- black habit of, 308
-- buttons on sleeves of, 36
-- condemnation of dress by, 344
-- criticized for gorgeous apparel, 345
-- in Holland, dresses of, 200
-- wear academical hood over surplice, 199, 212

Cloaks, deer skin, of Bronze Age people, retaining horns, 117

Clock, meaning a gusset, 68, =68=
-- origin of, 68

Clocks of clowns, 269

Cloth, breast, 202, =203=
-- chrism, 164
-- pied, 313
-- parti-coloured, 313

Clothes, adopted for æsthetic reasons, 14
-- -- -- reasons of coquetry, 14
-- adoption of, for ornamentation, 8
-- -- -- -- reasons of modesty, 8
-- -- -- -- warmth, 8
-- dispensed with on ceremonial occasions, 136
-- distortions caused by, 322
-- effect upon action, 341
-- -- of, upon the outsider, 315
-- everyday, worn at night, 287
-- first worn by women, 12
-- in their development subject to the same laws that act upon the
bodies of animals, 362
-- made from the bark of trees, 11
-- mental effect of, 339
-- minimum of, worn at sports, 6
-- not necessarily worn in cold climates, 11
-- -- worn at night, 287
-- of animal actors, 301
-- -- dolls, 137
-- -- monkeys, 301
-- -- Punch, origin of, 257
-- represented among animals, 291
-- Sunday, 205
-- swaddling, 163
-- the principles of evolution applied to, 1
-- used to alter the shape of the body, 337
-- useful characters always retained, 15
-- why worn, 8
-- worn at executions, become unfashionable, 353
(See also under the headings of _Costume_ and _Dress_)

Clothing, not worn by cave men, 8
-- preferences of girls for different articles of, 340, 341

Clown, 283
-- clocks of, 269

Clowns, painting of, likened to that once in vogue in China and
Japan, 276
-- paint of face of, 269

Clubbed hair, 134

Coachman, coat of, 142, =142=
-- Lord Mayor's, wig-bag of, 143, =143=
-- origin of dress, 139
-- red coat of royal, 235
-- wig of, 132, 142, =142=

Coastguard, revers of, buttoned back, =39=

Coat, blue in sixteenth century, 168
-- buff, 235
-- development of the modern, 15
-- evolved from the shawl, 16
-- lapels, nicks in, 41, =41=, =42=
-- patched, of harlequin, 283
-- pouter, 141, =141=
-- red, a best, 235
-- -- origin of, 249
-- -- survived for a long time in Cornwall, 235
-- skirts buttoned back for riding, =33=
-- swallow-tail, evolution of, 33, =34=

Coats at Harrow, 169
-- -- Westminster, 169
-- of arms, 83
-- -- Scottish Archers, 226

Coats, waterproof of, lambs, 300

Cobbett, criticisms on Quakers, 119

Cock of a hat, 61

Cockade, 61, 152, =152=
-- black, 153
-- bow of ribbon on, 156
-- evolution of, 153, =156=, =157=
-- for mourning, 154, =154=, 159
-- jagged edges of, 158
-- material of, 154
-- of Chelsea pensioners, =155=, 156
-- -- Danish ambassadors, 160
-- -- French ambassadors, 160
-- -- of various colours, 158
-- regent, =155=, 156, 159
-- royal, 154, 155, =155=, 159
-- treble, =152=, 156

Cockades, not under the jurisdiction of Heralds' College or Lord
Chamberlain, 153
-- of foreign ambassadors, 160
-- -- chauffeurs, 160
-- those entitled to use, 153, =159=
-- worn by gentlemen, 152

Cocking, 200

Coffins, Bronze Age, 18

Coif of Serjeant-at-law, 216
-- Order of the, 215
-- vestige of, 215, =217=

Coin, custom of breaking, upon engagement, 115

Coldstream Regiment, motto of, 246

Collar, broad lace, at Eton, 169
-- silver worn by additional drummer, 244

Collars, high, keep the head at a wrong angle, 356
-- metal of Padaung women, =114=; Plate VI, facing page 114
-- of Court ushers and vergers, 218
-- -- ladies' mantles standing up, 48
-- -- nuns, 202
-- worn by pet animals, 298

_Colobium sindonis_, 221

Colonial, dress of the, 319

Colour, craving for, shown by the gorgeous dress of Masons, 308
-- -- -- -- -- green scarfs of the Foresters, 308
-- -- -- -- -- pageants, 306
-- of academical dress, 309

Colours, 192
-- gay uniforms come under the category of courtship, 250
-- heraldic, derived from flags, still worn, 308
-- house, 171
-- of ancient drawings due to caprice of artists, 131
-- -- Naval uniform, 251
-- -- regiments, 309

Columbine, ballet dress of, 285

Comb as an ornament, 117, =118=

Combs, hair, 118, =118=
-- loom, the origin of the ornamental comb, 117, =118=

Combination garments of boiler cleaners, 320
-- -- -- Normans, 320

Coombe Hill School, Westerham, dress worn by girls at, 172, =172=

Commissionaires, buttons on overcoats of, 30

Companies, Livery, robes of, 138

Complexions, false, of Roman ladies, 278

Convicts' dress, 91

Cope, 197, 199
-- of fifteenth century, 212

Cornish, Mr. C. J., on animals' clothes, 300

Corps piqué, Montaigne and Ambrose Paré on the suffering caused by
the, 325

Corroboree, paint used at a, 272

Corset, misspelling of the word, 323
-- of Greece, 328
-- -- Rome, 328

Corsets, crusade against, 325

Cosmetics used by Roman ladies, 278

Costermongers, dress of, 319
-- trousers of, show progress of wearer's courtship, 347

Costume, clerical, regulated by Charles I, 185
-- connected with religion, 184
-- ecclesiastical, similar to civil in early times, =188=
-- of barge-women, 110
-- -- the clown, Elizabethan, 269, =270=
-- -- dolls, 267
-- -- milk-women, 110
-- -- nuns and abbesses resembled that of widows, 198
-- -- servants', derived from that of masters, 139
-- indicating the profession of the wearer, 316

Costumes adopted in girls' schools, 171
-- of hospitals for pensioners, 170
-- ugliness of bloomers, 81, 360
(See also under the headings of _Clothes_ and _Dress_)

Coulton, Mr. G. C., on the evolution of the maniple from a
pocket-handkerchief, 194

Courier bags carried on a baldric, 106, =107=

Court dress, mistakes made in, 227
-- ushers, collars of, 218

Coventry, Lady, death due to painting the face, 279

Cowboy's long hair, 127

Cows, clothing of, 300
-- rainproof jackets of, 300

Cradle of American Indian papoose, 164

Cranmer, hat of, =214=

Crescent as an amulet among the Romans, 293
-- made by joining two boars' tusks, 294
-- worn on a special strap by German horses, 295

Crest and badge, difference between, 90
-- -- surcoat of Henry Duke of Lancaster, 86, =86=
-- on helmet, 83
-- -- signet ring, 85
-- worn upon cap of Lord Mayor's postilion, 92, =92=

Creel carried on a baldric, 106

Crinoline, 337
-- devised to hide the shape of a princess, 344
-- of the young women of Otaheite, 338

Croft School, Betley, dress worn by girls at, 173, =173=

Crombie, Mr. James, on superstitions connected with weddings, 176

Crook, shepherd's, 195

Crosier, 221

Cross of nuns, 202
-- older than Christianity, 122

Cross-belt of Rifle Brigade, 242

Crown, 158, 221
-- bridal, 180
-- Tudor, superseded that of St. Edward, 224, =224=

Crusaders, 344

Cuff, turned back, 35, =36=, =37=, 38

Cuffs, 35
-- of widow, 183
-- white lawn, used as mourning by King's Counsel, 220
-- worn by the legal profession as part of mourning, 183

Cuirass of Household troops, 233

Culloden, battle of, 249

Currencies carried on the person, 113
-- ornaments as, 112

Cussan's "Handbook of Heraldry," 159

Custom of breaking a coin upon engagement, 115

Dalmatic, 190, 195, 221
-- compared with a shirt, 288
-- of Bishop, fringes on, 190
-- -- deacon, fringes on left side only, 191
-- symbolism of fringes, 191

Damascus, damask takes its name from, 313

Damask takes its name from Damascus, 313

Dane, dress of the, 319

Darnley, Lord, breeches of, 286

Darwin, Charles, on the loss of hair by man, 7
-- -- theory of evolution, 2
-- Sir George, on buttons, 30
-- -- -- -- evolution in dress, 3
-- -- -- -- the origin of busbies, 58, =59=
-- -- -- -- top boots, 65, =65=
-- -- -- -- why plumes are on the left side, 58, =58=

D'Aubernoun, Sir John, brass of, showing chain-mail, 234

David, shield of, 293

Dawkins, Professor Boyd, on the origin of the hair comb, 117

Deacons, stoles of, 192

Deaths due to painting the face, 279

Decoys, dogs dressed as duck, 301

Deformities caused by bandaging infants, 164

Demeter, 297

Denmark, dress of Bronze Age chieftains, 18, =19=

Depression in a judge's wig, 215, =216=

Diamond, supposed powers of the, 124

Diamonds, always fashionable, 123

Diaper appeared in reign of Henry II, 313
-- derived from D'Ypres, 313

Dinners, handkerchief used for wrapping, 195

Diodorus on the plaid of, 312

Distortion of the head, 336

Divorce, Bedouin form of, 178

Djibah, =172=, 173

Doctor in the Punch and Judy show, 263, =264=
-- of Divinity, scarf of, 192
-- round cap of, 213

Dogs, dress of, as duck decoys, 301
-- hairless, 303

Dolls, clothes of, 137
-- costume, 267
-- in swaddling clothes, Mr. Edward Lovett on, 268

Dolman of the Hussars, =81=, 239

Donkeys, cowry shells on trappings of, 297

Drawings of cave men, 8, =9=, 10

Dress, academical, 208
-- -- Druitt on, 210
-- bridal, 175
-- characteristic of trades, 320
-- children's, Dr. Alice Vickery on, 165
-- colour in academical, 309
-- condemnation of, by the clergy, =344=
-- Court, 226
-- -- mistakes made in, 227
-- does not usually show rank, 319
-- Dutch skeleton, 145, =145=
-- evening, black and white, 308
-- -- suggests correct behaviour, 340
-- Highland, 162
-- League, Rational, 354
-- monastic, 198
-- more primitive, worn on occasions of ceremony, 135
-- naval, supposed survivals in, 252
-- of acrobats, 286
-- -- ancient Christians, 187
-- -- animals, 291
-- -- beadles, 147, 262, =264=
-- -- coachmen, origin of, 139
-- -- convicts, 91
-- -- costermongers, 319
-- -- footmen, origin of, 139
-- -- girls at Coombe Hill School, Westerham, 171, =172=
-- -- -- -- the Croft School, Betley, 173, =173=
-- -- grooms, origin of, 139
-- -- harlequins, 283
-- -- heads of churches in Scotland, 200
-- -- jockeys, coloured, 147
-- -- King's Counsel, 218
-- -- Knights of St. John of Jerusalem, 321
-- -- monks, 201
-- -- Mrs. Bloomer, 81, 361

Dress of Norwegian bride, 180
-- -- nuns, 201, =203=
-- -- particular trades, 149
-- -- peasants, gay, 309
-- -- Punch and Judy, 137, 253
-- -- Romans, 187
-- -- servants, 139
-- -- the American, 318
-- -- -- Austrian, 318
-- -- -- Colonial, 319
-- -- -- Dane, 319
-- -- -- Frenchman, 318
-- -- -- German, 318
-- -- -- Hungarian, 318
-- -- -- Norwegian, 319
-- -- -- Spaniard, 318
-- -- St. Nicholas, 137
-- -- soldiers previous to the Restoration, 236
-- -- Yeomen of the Guard, 223, =225=
-- once indicated rank, 319
-- origin of, 6
-- parti-coloured, came into fashion in Edward II's time, 313
-- profession often not indicated by, 315
-- rank indicated in certain professions by, 320
-- rational, 81, 361
-- reform, 354
-- simplification of Court, 226
-- special, for worship, 205
-- tax on elegant, 350
-- to be according to station, 350
-- ugliness of evening, 208
-- Union, Healthy and Artistic, 354
-- used in special occupations, 320

Dresses, bridal, often survivals, 180
-- special school, 168
-- with trains to be kept for ceremonial occasions, 358

Dressing-gowns, 138, 358

Drops for ears, 112

Druitt, Mr., on academical dress, 210
-- -- -- boys dressed in petticoats, 165
-- -- -- the coif, 216

Drummer, extra of Third Hussars, 244

Dutch settler's wife, Miss Alice Morse Earle on the dress of, 359
-- skeleton dress, 145, =145=, 272

Dyes for tartans obtained from native plants, 313

Eagles on coronation robe, 222

Ear drops, 112

Ears, perforated for rings, 112

Earle, Miss Alice Morse, on the costume of the wife of a Dutch
settler, 359

Eckenstein, Miss Lina, on horse brasses, 293

Edward II, beard of, 130
-- III, badge of, 91
-- -- beard of, 129
-- IV, beard of, closely shaven, 130
-- VII, robes worn at the coronation of, 222

Egypt, finger rings in, 114

Egyptian graves, models of servants put into, 268
-- pins, 105
-- rings of blue pottery, 116

Egyptians, ancient, bury amulets with their dead, 122
-- blackening eyelids, 270
-- early, tattooing practised by, 277
-- modern, tattooing practised by, 277
-- prehistoric, beads of, 112

Elizabeth, statute cap of, 168
-- Queen, stocking of, 68

Elizabeth's coronation glove, stitching carried on to the back
of, =97=, 98
-- reign, ruffs of, 48

Elsyng, brass in church at, 86, =86=

Elves' arrows as pendants, 123

Elworthy, Mr., on horns of honour, 117

Embroidery carried on to the backs of gloves, 98, =99=

Emeralds always fashionable, 123

Epaulettes, 238
-- worn by the Gentlemen-at-Arms, 238
-- -- -- officers of the Yeomen of the Guard, 238
-- -- -- the Lords-Lieutenant of Counties, 238
-- -- in the Navy, 238

Ermine, 222
-- bands of, indicate rank, 223

Eskimos descendants of the cave men, 10
-- shoes, piece of old, worn by, to ensure fruitfulness, 178

Essex, fish-hooks made of thorns in, 125

Eton, gowns worn by scholars at, 169
-- jacket, 169
-- white tie at, 169

Etruscan brooch, safety-pin like an, 102, =103=

Eutropius, St., ceremony of garters, 71

Evolution, the principles applied to clothes, 1

Ewart, Sergeant, captures a French eagle, 245

Eyelashes, removal of, 128
-- lid, blackening of, by Egyptians, 270
-- sacred on rings, 117
-- stone or opal, 124
-- third in slow worm, 3

Executions, clothes worn at, become unfashionable, 353

Face plate of horse, amulets on, 294
-- sooty, of harlequin, 283

Facings, regimental, abolished in 1881, 238
-- why a different colour from that of the coat, 34

Fairholt on bandaged stockings, 67, =67=
-- -- the origin of the mortar-board, 214

Fans called sunshades, 280
-- for blowing up a fire, 280
-- origin of, 280

Farces, Atella, celebrated for Italian, 254

Farthingale, 337

Fashion determines the amount of the body which is to be covered, 14

Fashions due to royal peculiarities, 131
-- gay, follow periods of depression, 345
-- in hair arrangement, 126
-- kept up by superstitions, 349
-- origin of, difficult to trace, 354
-- the killing of, 352

Favours, 192

Fawkes, Guy, 225

Feathers, objections to the wearing of, 121
-- of birds of paradise, 121
-- -- ostriches, 122
-- peacocks', unlucky because of eyes, 124
-- wearing of, 121

Ficorroni, 258

Field-Marshal's baton, 223

Fillet, 175
-- forerunner of the hatband, 52, =52=
-- head, 149
-- vestiges of, 52, =52=

Finn, Huckleberry, 341
-- Mrs., on bells derived from flowers, 314

Fireman, helmet of, 60, =60=
-- private, badge of, 91

Fisher folk, barefooted, 334

Fish, gold, with several tails, 303
-- hook made of a thorn in Essex, 125

Fitzroy, General, 244

Flaccus, Dr. Louis W., on the effect of clothes on the minds of
school-girls, 339, 340
-- -- -- -- -- -- preference of girls for different articles of
clothing, 340, 341

Flags, heraldic colours of, still worn as favours, 308

Flap, red, on busby, 59, =59=

Flash on Court dress, 228, =229=
-- of Welsh Fusiliers, 133, =134=, 241

Fleshings, pink, of Merveilleuses, 346

Fleur-de-lys, 222, 293
-- on braid of drummers of the Guards, 246
-- removed from royal arms, 246

Flower, Sir William, on deforming of the foot, 334
-- -- -- -- injuries caused by tight lacing, 324
-- -- -- -- the most highly evolved foot, 333

Flowers, chaplet of, used after baptism, 164
-- wearing of, 121
-- worn at Eton on Fourth of June, 171
-- -- by a bride, 175

Folds of robes used as pockets by Arabs, 110

Foot, deforming of the, 334
-- gear, early, 62
-- Guards, drum-major's livery cap, 146
-- Sir William Flower on deforming of the, 334
-- -- -- -- -- the most highly evolved, 333
-- stunted, of Chinese woman, 335
-- the ideal in art, 333, 334

Footman, 140, =141=, 149
-- origin of dress, 139

Footmen, aiguillettes worn by, 240
-- flaps of, 32, =33=
-- wig of, 132
-- with powdered hair, 131

Fourchettes of gloves, =97=, 98

Fourragère, 241

Fowls, top-knotted, 303

Fox-hunters, red coat of, 235

Frenchman, dress of, 318

Frills, 227

Fringe of a shawl, origin of, 16

Fringes, Mr. Macalister on symbolism of, on dalmatics, 191

Frock coat, 148

Frontal of nun, =203=, 204

Fruitfulness, superstitious practices to ensure, 179, 180

Funerals, horse trappings still used at, 292
-- painted pasteboard figures burnt in China at, 274

Fur, 11
-- use of, in the army, 247

Fusiliers, Welsh, flash of, 133, =134=

Fylfot, 122; see Plate VII, Fig. F, facing page 129

Gagging, art of, not modern, 254

Gaiters, 70

Garlands, wearing of, signifies virginity, 180

Garment, new, put on over old, 148

Garments, dislike of divided, 359
-- flowing, give an elegant effect, 137, 357
-- -- -- dignity, 187, 357
-- long, of Noah's Ark figures, 268

Garter, 158

Garters as insignia, 71
-- golden, of Merveilleuses, 346
-- of girls, annual ceremony in Haute-Vienne, 71
-- ornamental, 71

Gatty, Sir Alfred Scott, on cockades, 153

Gauntlets worn by masons, 232

Gentleman of George III's time, 141, 143

George II's reign, coachman, coat of, 142, =142=
-- -- on naval uniform, 251
-- III, black coats at Eton, mourning for, 169
-- -- gentleman's dress, 141, 143
-- III's reign, the pouter coat of, 141

German, dress of the, 318

Germs of disease disseminated by trailing skirts, 358

Giangurgolo, Calabrian, 1731, 257, =257=

Gimmal rings, 115

Girdle, 73
-- of judge, 217

Girl catching an object in her lap, 341

Girls, colour preferences of, 307
-- in factories, barefooted, 334
-- wearing their hair down, 166

Gladstone, Mr., abolished the serjeants-at-law, 217

Gloucestershire regiment, badges of, 245

Glove of Anne, Consort of James I, 98, =99=
-- stitching carried on to the back of Elizabeth's coronation,
=97=, 98
-- -- -- down the back of, =97=, 98

Gloves, 94, 195
-- early, without fingers, 94
-- embroidery carried on to the backs of, 98, =99=
-- fourchettes of, =97=, 98
-- not worn by nuns, 204
-- points on, =96=, 98
-- with two thumbs in Iceland, 95

God, solar, of Egypt, 123

Gold dust put on the head, 131

Golfers, red coat of, 235

Gordon, Miss Helen, on painting used in the time of Queen Anne, 279

Gorget the badge of an officer on duty, 235

Gorilla, hair of, 6

Gown, 18
-- black, 185
-- Geneva, bands worn with, 44
-- of judge, 217
-- -- King's Counsel, 218
-- -- Master of Arts, 210
-- -- Oxford Undergraduates, 210

Gowns, black, legal mourning for Queen Mary II, 218
-- worn by scholars at Eton, 169

Greek betrothal rings, 115

Gremial, 202

Grenadier, caps of Scots Greys, 244

Greys, Scots, 245

Grenadier Guards, 248

Groom, =140=
-- origin of belt, 139
-- -- -- dress, 139

Guards, drummers of, fleur-de-lys on braid of, 246
-- formation of, by Charles II, 246
-- Grenadier, 248
-- -- buttons on coats of, 29
-- Irish, 248
-- Life and Horse, survival of cord for priming powder horn, 108
-- Scots, 248
-- white jackets of, 243

Guignol, 255
-- French punch, 257
-- the name derived from Giangurgolo, 257

Guild liveries, 232

Guinea, New, women wear no clothes, 9

Habit, black of clergy, 308

Habits, monastic, 198

Hackle feathers of Northumberland Fusiliers, 244

Hair, clubbed, 134
-- curly, imitated, 130
-- dedication of, 128
-- dishevelling of, as mourning, 181
-- down, girls wearing their, 166
-- early man covered with, 6
-- great value attached to a profuse head of, 128
-- long, not necessarily effeminate, 127
-- not correlated with cold climate, 6
-- of women dressed differently from that of men, 128
-- powder, 131
-- -- coloured, 131
-- putting up of, by girls, 166
-- queued, 134
-- Roman modes of doing the, 132; Plate VII, facing page 129
-- use of others, 130

Halberds of Yeomen of the Guard, 225

Handkerchief in general use in Henry VIII's time, 195
-- used for wrapping up dinners, 195
-- -- -- -- -- presents, 195

Hanover, cockade of House of, 153

Harem, 13

Harlequin, 261, 267
-- coat of, worn by the Lord of Montbron, 283
-- modern dress of, 283, =284=
-- origin of the character, 282
-- patched coat of, 283
-- shaven head of, 283
-- sooty face of, 283
-- wand of, 283

Harlequinade, 269, 282

Harlequinne, 285

Harrow, coats at, 169
-- swallow tails at, 170

Hat band, 52
-- -- origin of, 52
-- cocked, development of, 60, =60=
-- Cranmer's, 214, =214=
-- for hunting with lacing, 56, =56=
-- how made from a disc of material 57, =57=
-- of a bishop of the Stuart period, 214, =214=
-- sailor, streamers of, 53, =53=
-- tall, used in the Army, 248

Hats with the underside painted green, 271
-- women in church without, 206

Haweis, Mrs., dressing to suit her surroundings, 310

Hawaiian Islands, hut of, 49

Haybands forerunners of leg bandages, 67

Head, distortion of, 336

Head-dress of French lawyer, 158
-- -- -- Henry II's reign surviving in that of nuns, 201, =203=
-- -- shawl as a, 61
-- -- Siamese, compared with a Votive Spire, 50, =51=
-- shaven, of harlequin, 283
-- shaving, 127
-- strap, =203=

Heads, deforming of children's, by Chinook Indians, 335

Hearse cloths, 232

Heart-shaped amulets, 295, 296, =296=

Hector the horse extinct in Punch and Judy show, 267

Helmet of Black Prince, 87, =88=
-- fireman's, 60, =60=
-- plate, 158

Helmets, metal, 60

Henna used for staining fingers and toes by Egyptians, 271

Henry VIII's reign, handkerchief came into general use in, 195

Heppel, Mr. George, on Punch and Judy, 253
-- -- -- -- figures worked by wires, 255

Heraldry, Handbook of, by Cussan, 159

Heralds, tabards of, 83

Hereditary badges, 90

Hide, raw, shoe made of, 64, =64=

Highland corps, white jackets of, 243
-- dress, 162

Hindu ayahs, nose rings of, 111
-- women, painting of the feet scarlet by, 273
-- -- teeth blackened by, 273

Hodgson, Miss, uses a doll to show costume, 174

Hogarth's engravings of children, 162

Holland, dress of clergy in, 200

Holy Land, swaddling clothes persist in, 163, 333

Hood, 198
-- academical, 210
-- -- wearing of, by clergymen, 199, 212
-- combined with cape, 156, =156=, 157
-- enlargement of the peak, =156=, 157
-- of a Knight of the Garter, 229, =230=
-- -- Bachelor of Arts, 212
-- -- nuns, 202, =203=
-- -- the Order of the Thistle, 230
-- -- -- -- -- St. Patrick, 230
-- -- undergraduates, liripipe of, 211
-- peak of prolonged, to form liripipe, 157
-- tiny, on barrister's gown, 218, =219=

Horn for priming powder, survival of cords for suspending, 108

Horns of honour, 117

Horse amulets, 293, 294, =294=, 295, =296=
-- clothing, 292
-- brass, crescent shaped, derived from boar's tusks, 294, =294=
-- brasses, English, the counterpart of those shown on Trajan's
column, 295
-- -- Dr. Plowright on the origin of some, 293
-- -- Miss Lina Eckenstein on, 293
-- -- heraldic, 295
-- identified as a corn spirit, 297
-- trappings, 292
-- -- still used at funerals, 292
-- white, of Hanover, 243

Horses, black, used at funerals, 303
-- circus, 303
-- grey, carry the kettledrums, 303
-- hats of, 300
-- killing of, at harvest time, 297
-- sun-bonnets, 300
-- white carry the kettledrums, 303

Hose, Florentine, 70, 286
-- tights, a survival of Florentine, 286
-- trunk, 269
-- -- of acrobat, 286
-- -- -- clown, 269
-- -- -- knights, 231

Household cavalry, bandsmen's livery caps, 146

Housemaid, apron of, 149
-- cap of, 149

Hounds, Dalmatian, as carriage dogs, 303

Howard of Effingham, hat of Lord, 248

Hump of Punch, back, 262, =263=
-- -- -- front, origin of, 253

Hungarian, dress of the, 318
-- peasant's cap, 59, =59=

Huntsman, livery cap of, 146

Hussars, 59
-- cowry shells on trappings of horses of, 297, =298=
-- dolman of, 81, 239
-- Eighth, wear sword-belts over their shoulders, 243
-- Eleventh, wear ivory-hilted swords, 244
-- Fifteenth, wear Austrian imperial lace, 244
-- lacing of, 146
-- prickers on shoulder belt of, 239, =239=
-- sling jacket of, 81, 239
-- Third, extra drummer of, 244
-- uniform of, 272

Hut of Hawaiian Islands, 49

Iceland, glove with two thumbs, 95

India, lotus flowers on king's mantle, symbolical of, 222

Indian Army, puttees of, 66

Infant, bib of, 167
-- binder of, 163

Infants, deformities caused by bandaging, 164
-- powdered, 162
-- patched, 162

Inner Temple, badge of the porters of, 91

Ireland, pin-ring brooches in, 125

Irish Guards, 248

Ironside of Cromwell compared with a modern cavalryman, 237, =237=

Italian women age rapidly, 329

Jacket, Cardigan, 18
-- Eton, 169
-- smoking, suggests relaxation, 340

Jackets, rainproof, for cows, 300
-- white, of Guards, 243
-- -- -- Highland corps, 243

Japan, use of paint by women in, 275

Japanese actors paint the face, 273
-- children, painting the face of, 273
-- women, teeth blackened by, on marriage, 273

Java, earliest man in, 7. See Frontispiece

Jerome, St., on special dress for worship, 205

Jesson, Mr. W. H., a performer of Punch and Judy, 262

Jesus College, Cambridge, choristers' bands, 45, =45=

Jewesses shave their heads, 127

Jews, 205
-- rending their garments, 42
-- tattooing practised by, 277

Joan the old name of Judy, 266

Jockey, livery cap of, 147
-- parti-coloured dress of, 147, 313

Johanna, 301

Judge, girdle of, 217
-- gown of, 217
-- sentence cap of, 217
-- wig of, 132, 216, =216=

Judith, 267

Judy, dress of, =263=
-- apron of, =263=
-- mob cap of, 262, =263=
-- once known as Joan, 266
-- origin of the name, 266

Kamarband worn by officers, 249

Kayans of Borneo, clothes of bark worn by, as mourning, 181

Kefiyeh fastened with a fillet of camel's hair, 53

Kersey, 351

Kettledrums, silver, 244

Kilburn Sisters, 201, 202

Kilt of sailors, 252
-- short, 76, =76=

Kimono brought from Japan, 344

King's Counsel, dress of, 218
-- -- gown of, 218
-- -- white lawn cuffs used as mourning by, 220
-- footmen, red coats of, 235

Kirkudbrightshire, pin-ring brooches of blacksmiths in, 125

Knee-breeches worn when speeches are made at Eton, 170

Knickerbocker suits, jersey, 165

Knickerbockers, 80
-- of blue-coat boys, 167
-- a recognized feature of children's costume, 163

Knights of the Garter, 229
-- -- -- -- chaperon on robes of, 158
-- -- St. Patrick, 229
-- -- the Thistle, 229

Knobs in the East take the place of buttons, 20

Kohl, 271

Label to difference arms, 86, =86=, 88

Labourers' method of buttoning trousers, 252

Lace, Austrian imperial, worn by Fifteenth Hussars, 244

Lacedæmonian girls, tunics of, slit down the sides, 346

Lacerna, 198

Laces, 100, =101=

Lacing inside a hat, =55=
-- of Hussars, 146
-- tight, banned by Charles IV and Henry III, 326
-- -- in England, 326
-- -- made compulsory by Catherine de Medici, 326

Ladies, armorial bearings on dresses of, 84, =85=
-- married with flowing tresses, 166
-- wear pyjamas, 288

Lady gardeners at Kew wear trousers, 358

Lake dwellings, pins found in Swiss, 105

Lamb, Persian, used for making spots on miniver, 222

Lambs that supply the wool for the pallium, 196
-- waterproof coats of, 300

Lancaster, Henry Duke of, crest and surcoat of, 86, =86=

Lancers, 39

Lap, boys and girls catching objects in their, 341

Lawn sleeves of a bishop, 199

Laws for the good of trade, 348

Lawyer, head-dress of French, 158

Leech, caricatures the busbies of the Guards, 247

Leg bandages, 66, =66=, =67=
-- -- derived from haybands, 67
-- -- of pfiferari, 68

Leggings, survival of the wearing of skins, 70

Legion of Honour, buttons of, 158

Leicestershire Regiment, tiger-skin aprons of, 249

Leopards on Arms of England, 86

Life Guards, black plumes of farriers of, 242
-- -- -- tunics of farriers of, 242

Light Infantry, Duke of Cornwall's puggaree of, 243

Lindley, Lord, last surviving serjeant-at-law, 217

Linen, strip of, round head as mourning in Egypt, 182
-- the showing of, 44

Lion spotted when young, 94

Lions on Arms of England, 86

Liripipe, =156=, 157, =157=, 210, 230
-- of undergraduates' hoods, 211
-- peak of hood prolonged to form, 156, =156=

Lip plugs, 111

Liveries of the City Companies, 231

Livery cap, 146
-- -- of bandsmen of the Household Cavalry, 146
-- -- -- drum-major of the Foot Guards, 146
-- -- -- jockeys, 147
-- -- -- huntsmen, 146
-- Companies, chaperon, vestige on gowns of, 231
-- of page-boy, 145, =145=
-- -- porters, 148

Locket, 122

Loom combs, 117, =118=

Lord Mayor's coachman, wig-bag of, 134, 143, =143=
-- -- postilion, crest worn upon cap of, 92, =92=

Lotus flowers symbolical of India, on Edward VII's mantle, 222

Louis XVI, hair of, gave rise to wigs, 131

Louterell, Sir Geoffrey, figure showing armorial bearings, 84, =85=

Lovett, Mr. Edward, on dolls in swaddling clothes, 268
-- -- -- -- origin of pin-ring brooches, 125
-- -- -- -- patterns derived from tattooing, 278

Lyman, Dr., explanation of buttons being differently arranged on
the clothes of the two sexes, 22

Macalister, Mr., on fashions, 189
-- -- -- symbolism of the fringes on dalmatics, 191
-- -- -- the pallium, 196
-- -- -- -- surplice, 185
-- -- -- there being no distinctive garments for the ministers,
among early Christians, 190

Macphersons, tartan of the, 312

Magnin, M., on the origin of Punch's hump, 261

Mail, chain, vestige of, on shoulder of Imperial Yeoman, 233, =233=
-- plate, 235

Malachite used for painting by prehistoric Egyptians, 271

Man cook, white clothes of, 320
-- Isle of, triskele in the coat-of-arms of, 119
-- once hairy, 7. Frontispiece
-- skin of, originally reddish, 13
-- primitive, 5

Manche, 146

Maniple, 221
-- once a napkin, 194

Manning, Mrs., hung in a black satin dress, 353

Manservant, modern, 143

Mantle, imperial, 221
-- of Edward VII, lotus flowers on, 222
-- -- Queen Victoria, roses on, 222

Mantles of ladies, collars standing up, 48

Maoris, tattooing of, 277

Mare, the last uncut ears of corn, 297

Marken, women of, floral designs on the bodice, 278

Market woman, sun-bonnet of, 61

Marines, Royal, mourning of, 243

Marionettes, 255

Marriage by capture, 175

Marriott, Mr., on the colour of early vestments, 190

Martingale of horse, amulets on, 294

Mask, unwritten laws that rule the wearing of, 281

Masks of the 5th of November a reminder of primitive
face-painting, 280
-- worn by savages, 280

Mason, Mr. Otis T., on pockets, 110

Masons, aprons of, 232
-- insignia of, 231

Master, clothing of, becomes that of servant, 5, 152

Maud, 20

Maundy Thursday, 226

Mayhew, Mr. Henry, on Punch and Judy, 265

Medical officers, volunteer, wear cocked hats, 247

Men, colour preferences of, 307

Merveilleuses, 345, =345=

Mess jacket of Somersetshire Light Infantry, 242

Meyer, Dr., on the padding of sleeves above the shoulder to
prevent weapons from slipping off, 338

Mice, piebald, 302

Milk-women, apron of, 150
-- -- costume of, 110
-- -- with yokes, 110

Milton, bands of, 46

Mimes, Roman, 183, 282, 283

Mimi, 282

Miniver, 222
-- rows of black spots on, indicate rank, 223

Mitten, open work, 99

Mittens and tattooing, 99

Mitre, 221
-- strings of, 54, =54=

Mizpah rings, 116

Mob cap worn by Judy, 262, =263=

Modesty a habit, 12
-- different ideas of, in various regions, 12
-- ideas of, Arab women, 207

Molière introduces Punch into _Le Malade Imaginaire_, 261

Monk, General, 246

Monkeys, clothes of, 301

Monk, dress of, 201
-- scapular of, 201
-- tunic of, 201

Montbron, Lord of, harlequin's coat worn by, 283

Montaigne on the sufferings caused by the corps piqué, 325

Montagu, Lady Mary Wortley, and painting, 279

Montem at Eton, 171

Moore, Sir John, black worm as mourning for, 242

Mortar-board, 47, 169, 212, =214=

Moseley, Professor, on face-painting in China, 273, 274, 275;
see Plate X, fig. C facing p. 270
-- -- -- painting the body, 272
-- -- -- the use of paint by women in Japan, 275

Mosque-like turban, 50, =50=

Mourning bands of barristers, 219
-- black as, 181
-- black band on arm for, 182
-- -- worm for Sir John Moore as, 242
-- clothes of bark worn by Kayans of Borneo as, 181
-- cuffs worn by the legal profession as part of, 183
-- dishevelling of hair as, 181
-- for death of Nelson, 252
-- -- General Wolfe, black worm as, 242
-- of Royal Marines, 243
-- purple as, 182
-- sackcloth as, 181
-- strip of linen round head in Egypt as, 182
-- white as, 182
-- white lawn cuffs used by King's Counsel as, 220
-- yellow as, 182

Moustache, 129

Mules, cowry shells on trappings of, 297, =299=

Mutes at children's funerals, 182

Nail, horseshoe, as part of a pin-ring brooch, 125

Nakedness, effect of, destroyed by tattooing even in Europeans, 277

Napkin, 194, 195

Naval uniforms, 251

Navvies wear belts, 329

Neapolitan, the, as an actor, 254

Neck chains, 113
-- -- of Richard II's time, 113

Nelson, mourning for death of, 252

Neuville, M. Lemercier de, on Punch's stick, 260

Newcombe, Allan Poe, on hats and habitations, 49

Nicks in coat lapels, 41, =41=, =42=

Nightcap of man, 290, =290=
-- -- woman, 289, =290=

Nightcaps, elaboration of, restricted in the reign of Mary, 290
-- of Tudors, 289
-- still worn, 289

Night-dresses worn by ladies in the street in Anne's reign, 290

Nightgown, the bands on a lady's, 288, =289=

Night rails, 290

Nightshirt cut like a day shirt, 288

Noah's Ark figures, long garments of, 268

Norman chin-band, 201, =203=

Normans closely shaved their beards, 129
-- combination garments of, 320
-- wore trousers, 79

Northumberland Fusiliers, hackle feathers of, 244
-- -- wear roses, 245

Norwegian, dress of the, 319

Nose rings of Hindu ayahs, 111

Novice, veil of, 202