Chapter I: Part 1

Transcriber's Note

Italic text is indicated by _underscores_, and superscript by caret signs, e.g. 5^{th}.

The Table of Contents is located at the end of the text.

_THE HISTORY OF_

LAPLAND

_Wherein are shewed the
Original, Manners, Habits,
Marriages, Conjurations, &c.
of that People.
Written
by_
Iohn Shefferus
_Professor of Law & Rhetorrick
at Upsal in Sweden_.

_At the Theater in Oxon 1674._
]

THE
HISTORY
OF
LAPLAND

WHEREIN

Are shewed the Original, Manners, Habits, Marriages,
Conjurations, &c. of that People.

WRITTEN

_By_ JOHN SCHEFFER, _Professor of Law and Rhetoric
at_ Upsal _in_ Sweden.

At the THEATER in _OXFORD_.

M. DC. LXXIV.

Imprimatur

_R. A. BATHURST_,
Vice-Canc.

July 8. 1674.

THE

PREFACE.

_The Reader may please to take notice, that the diligent and learned Author of this History, (to the writing of which he was commanded, and therein assisted by the Chancellor of_ Sweden) _hath in the whole work taken care to justify what he relates, from the faith of authentic records, the testimony of Historians, and the Discourses of_ Laplanders _themselves, with whom he had ready opportunities of converse. And this he hath don so precisely, that having in the contexture of his work, given a full account of what he thought observable in the writings, or narratives to which he refers, he afterwards constantly puts down at length the very words of his Authors, a great part of which are in the Swedish Tongue. Now in this Edition we have spared our selves the labor of such repetition; which we hope will not be regretted by the Reader, who we suppose would not have bin much edified by them. As to the subject here discours’d of, twill not be needfull to give a character of it. Military Action, and those public murders in which other Histories triumph, have no share here. Hunger, cold and solitude are enemies that engage all the fortitude of this People: and where so much passive valor is necessary, we may dispense with the want of Active. Amidst the barbarity and darkness which reign in_ Lapland, _there appear strictures of light, which will entertain the eie of the most knowing observer; as the Stars are no less remarkable then is the Sun it self. However the Reader will not fail to meet here with what may gratify his curiosity. Warmer Climates having all the comforts and necessaries of life plentifully bestowed upon them, are but a more distant home; where we have little else talk’d of, then what we daily see among oar selves: but here it is indeed, where, rather then in_ America, _we have a new World discovered: and those extravagant falsehoods, which have commonly past in the narratives of these Northern Countries, are not so inexcusable for their being lies, as that they were told without temtation; the real truth being equally entertaining, and incredible_.

THE HISTORY

OF

LAPLAND

CHAP. I.

_Of the Name of_ Lapland.

This Country doth not every where pass by the same name. By some ’tis called _Lappia_, as _Johann. Magnus_ in the Preface of his history, and _Saxo Grammat._ in his 5^{th} book; by others _Lapponia_, as _Olaus Magnus_ in the explication of his Map of _Scandinavia_, and _Ziegler_ in his description of the Northern Countries, and before these _Ericus Versaliensis_, and after them _Andr. Buræus_. The _Swedes_ usually call the Country _Lapmarkia_, in whose language _Mark_ signifies Land; the _Danes_ and _Norwegians_, _Laplandia_, and also _Findmarkia_, as appears from _Petr. Claudus_ description of _Norway_: for no one can gather any thing else but an account of this Country, from his whole 38^{th} Chapt. which himself too seems to intimate, when he promises more about _Findmarkia_ in his description of _Lapland_. Of i’ts being call’d _Findmark_, I shall speak in another place; Now we will see why ’tis call’d _Lapponia_ and _Lappia_, the Etymology of which words is not yet agreed upon by the Learned. _Ziegler_ thinks they were named so by the _Germans_, from the dulness and stupidity of the people, which the word _Lappi_ signifies amongst them; but this seems improbable, since this Country is but of late known to the _Germans_, and none of their antient Writers make any mention of _Lappia_. Moreover, the _Finlanders_, _Swedes_ and _Russians_, who differ much in their language from one another, as well as from the _Germans_, call it all by the same name; and the _Germans_, who are so remote from _Lapland_, could not transmit this name to these more Northern Countries, especially when they had little or no commerce with them. Neither are the people so very dull and stupid; as _Ziegler_ himself afterwards acknowledges, when he confesses they are good at the needle, and make delicate embroidered clothes. Neither can I assent to _Wexionius_’s opinion, that the _Swedes_ gave them this name from their wearing of _Skins_; for _Lapper_ and _Skinlapper_ do not signify skins, but the same as the Greeks ῥάκοι (in English _Rags_) from whence _Ol. Petr. Nieuren_, who writ of _Lapland_ in _Gustavus Adolphus_’s time, derives their name from their coming into _Swedland_ every year with rags _lapt_ about them, which is the signification of _Lapp_ in that language. But they do not deserve that name, meerly for this reason, any more than the _Finlanders_ and others, for they are generally cloth’d in good woollen garments, as we shall shew hereafter. _Grotius_ thinks they are call’d _Lapps_ from running or _leaping_, but _Lœpa_, which in the Swedish language signifies to run, is writ with a single _P_, and the name of this Country with a double one; and these People naturally are no great runners, tho by an art they have of sliding over the frozen snow, they are very swift in their motions. Some think that the Inhabitants do not denominate the Country, but the Country the Inhabitants, as in the name of _Norwegians_ and others, which seems to be strengthned by this, because _Ol. Magnus_ calls them _Lappomanni_, after the manner of _Nordmanni_, _Westmanni_, and _Sudermanni_, in which words _Manni_ signifying _Men_, they were call’d _Lappomanni_, _i. e._ Men of _Lappia_.[1] Others fancy that the name of the Country is deriv’d from _Lappu_, which in the _Finnonick_ language is _furthermost_, because it lies in the farthest part of _Scandinavia_. There is yet another opinion which may seem no less plausible then any of the former, which agrees as well with the signification of the word _Lapp_ among the _Laplanders_ themselves, as the credit given to what has been matter of fact, _viz._ that ’twas call’d _Lappia_, not from its situation, or other such like accident, but from the _Lappi_ that inhabited it. So that I take _Lappi_ to signify no other than _banish’t_ persons, which is the genuine signification of _Lapp_ in the _Lapland_ language; for the _Laplanders_ were originally _Finlanders_, and from leaving their Country may be presum’d to have took their name; and that not of their own choosing, but the _Finlanders_[2] imposition, with whom to _Lapp_ signifies to run away: whence the compellation seeming something scandalous, no person of quality to this day will endure to be call’d by it, tho from the _Finlanders_ others Nations, as the _Germans_, _Swedes_ and _Moscovites_, have learnt to call them so. But they of _Lappia Umensis_ stile themselves _Sabmienladti_, and those of _Lappia Tornensis_, _Sameednan_, from the word _Sabmi_ or _Same_; the signification of which, and whence they had it, we shall see hereafter.

At what time this Country and it’s inhabitants were first distinguish’t by these names _Lappia_ and _Lappi_, ’tis hard to prove: ’tis certain ’twas but of late, for the words are not found in any antient writer, neither in _Tacitus_, who mentions their neighbours and forefathers the _Finlanders_, nor in _Ptolomy_, _Solinus_, _Anton. Augustus_, _Rutilius_, or others, neither in Authors nearer home (not to name _Jornandes_, _Paul Warnefrid_, &c.) nor in those who have writ the actions of _Heraud_ and _Bosa_, or _Gætricus_ and _Rolfus_, or King _Olafus_ in the _Islandick_, _Norwegian_ or _Gothick_ language: we find nothing of them in _Adam Bremensis_, whose diligence in writing of the Northern Countries, his _Scandinavia_ sufficiently testifies; or in _Sturlisonius_, who writ very accuratly of these parts in his own language. Therefore I cannot be so easily persuaded with _Grotius_ to believe _Cluverius_, who says they were mention’d in the _Peutingerian_ Tables, the Author of which is thought to have liv’d at least before _Theodosius_’s time, _i. e._ 600 years before _Adam Bremensis_: how then could he, that was none of the best Geographers, if we may beleive _Welserus_, and very far distant from these parts, give us any account of them, since _Adam Bremensis_, who was so near a neighbour, and had commerce with those that lived there, could give us none? Besides, in that Table the _Sarmatians_ are called _Lupiones_, with whom the _Lappi_ were nothing concerned, neither doth any antient Author say they were seated so far Northward: wherefore the _Lupiones_ there described are any People rather then the _Laplanders_, for at that time, when the Author writ, they were not so much as known to any of their neighbours, the _Gothick_ _Norwegian_ or _Danish_ writers. The first that mentions _Lapland_ is _Saxo Gramat._ Hist. Dan. l. 5. who lived and wrote about _Ann._ 1190, and therefore was after _Adam Bremensis_ (who lived about 1077) near 130 years, in which interval this name must needs come first in use. For _Saxo_ making mention of such a Country a great while before, in the time of _Frotho_ the third contemporary to _Alricus_ King of Swedland (who they say lived before Christ) doth not prove that ’twas called so then, but that that Country might afterwards have had this appellation; and I am fully perswaded, that _Adam Bremensis_ would not have omitted this name if he had had any knowledge of it. Afterward _Er. Upsaliensis_ speaks of it about 1470 _i. e._ almost 300 years after _Saxo_, and 200 before this present time. After them _Jac. Ziegler_ made a large and learned description of it, by which it came to be known all over _Europe_. For however we may meet with the name _Lappia_ in _Saxo_, none but the _Swedes_ and _Finlanders_, before _Zieglers_ time, knew any thing of it. And so much for the names of _Lapland_.

FOOTNOTES:

[1] _Johann. Tornæus._

[2] _Ol. Petr. Nieuren._ _Plantin. jun. Præf._ MS. _Lexic. Lappon._

CHAP. II.

_Of the Situation of_ Lapland.

The true and exact situation of this Country the Antients seem not to have sufficiently discovered. _Saxo_ makes it bordering upon _Jamtia_, extending its self as far, or rather lying as it were between _Helsingia_ and _Finland_, when in these words he says _the Provinces of the_ Helsingi, Iarnberi, Iemti, _with both the_ Lappia’s, _as likewise_ Finnia _and_ Estia _paid annual tribute to one Domarus_. _Ericus Upsaliensis_ seems to make it a part of _Finland_, mistaking it for a certain part of that Kingdome so called, on the one side adjoining to _Swedland_, on the other to _Russia_, giving it a place between _Carelia_ and _Nylandia_. _Ol. Mag._ in his Table, and so his brother _Johan. Magnus_ in the Preface of his History, place it higher then the western _Bothnia_, making neighbours to it _Scrikfinnia_ furthest towards the North, and _Biarmia_ towards the East; though some[3] think there is no such place as _Scrikfinnia_, as it is certain there is none in those parts at this day called by that name. But yet we must not slightly pass over the unanimous opinion of so many learned men, especially _Saxo_, not a little knowing in the Northern affairs, who have all not barely named it, but have described the humours of the Inhabitants, their manners, habits and fashion of their governments, with other matters belonging to them. Instead of the _Scrickfinni_ or _Scricfinni_ of _Johan._ and _Ol. Magn._ I would rather read it _Scritofinni_; and as for _Skidfinni_ as _Adr. Buræ_ would have it, all the Antients, what ever else they differ in, will agree in this, that there must be an _R_ in the word. _Jornandez_ calls them _Scretfennæ_, _Paul. Warnefrid._ and _Diacon._ _Scritobini_ changing _f_ in _b_ (of which and some other things of the like nature I will treat in due time and place) _Adam Bremensis_ _Scritefiani_: and the Greeks agree in this writing, so that we ought not to doubt of the Latines. _Procopius_ will have them sometimes Σκριθιφίκους, other times Σκριθιφίνους. Besides ’tis manifest since the _Scritefinni_ are the same with the _Finni_, whose Etymology in their own language is from leaping,[4] by an art they have, by which with crooked pieces of wood under their feet like a bow they hunt wild beasts; they could not therefore take their name from _Skidh_, signifying the wooden shoes themselves, but from their leaping, _i. e._ swift running with them, which doubtless antiently was meant by _Skriida_, and which the Author cited by _Warnius_ in the 46 page of his Lexicon confirms, where he relates the form of an oath made by _Hafur_, that he would preserve the peace _Quamdiu Finnur skriidar_, _i. e._ as long as the _Finlanders_ continued their manner of leaping. As for the Etymology that is there given, that it signifies their wandring up and down, ’tis altogether false, for _Skridsko_ at this day denotes those wooden shoes which they run upon the ice with; neither doth _Skirida_ signify any thing else among the Antients but to glide along the ground, for they do not take up one foot after the other, as in common running, but carrying themselves steady upon the frozen snow, they move forward stooping a little, as shall be shewn hereafter. And perhaps this is the onely cause that they are called _Himantopodes_,[5] People creeping upon their knees; which agrees exactly with these _Scritofinni_: for they hearing that _Skriida_ was to creep along, what could they fancy the _Scritofinni_ to be, but People not going like other men, but crawling forward like creeping animalls, but of this I shall speak more at large when I come to the _Laplanders_ gliding upon the ice. That which I would chiefly evince here, is, that there are such a people rightly called _Scritofinni_, and the Country which they inhabit is _Scritofinnia_ or _Scritfinnia_, and that there is no reason we should think there was no such place, since there are those who are called _Scritfinni_, _i. e._ _Finlanders_, who run upon the ice with wooden shoes, whose Country from thence may well be called _Scritofinnia_. And the same may be urged for _Biarmia_ against those that will not allow there is any such place. For first the antient Writers making frequent mention of it, as that Author of the History thereof, calls it often _Biarmaland_ in the old _Gothick_ or _Islandick_ language, who also calls the King of it _Hereker_ in Ch. 7. and his two Sons, the one _Rœrik_ the other _Siggeir_. _Saxo_ likewise in his 9^{th} book, speaks of a certain King of this place, who reigned in the time of _Regner_ King of the _Danes_, making it border upon _Finland_, when he says the King of _Biarmia_ fled for refuge to _Matullus_, who then reigned in _Finland_. But now granting there were antiently such names as _Biarmia_ and _Scritfinnia_, it remains doubtfull still whether they were distinct Countries or no. All Authors except _Johan._ and _Ol. Magn._ seem to make them the same, _Procop._ _Jornand._ _Paul. Warnfrid._ and _Adam Bremensis_ speak of _Scritfinnia_, but none of _Biarmia_, and the Northern writers do just contrary. _Saxo_ indeed mentions them both, but not at the same time: once in his Preface he names _Scritfinnia_, leaving out _Biarmia_, in other places he names _Biarmia_ omitting the other; from whence I am almost of opinion that ’tis the same Country called by native Writers _Biarmia_, by forreign _Scritfinnia_. We may add further that as _Adam Bremensis_ makes _Scritfinnia_ next to _Helsingia_, the Author of the History of _Heraud_ and _Bosa_ sets _Biarmia_ in the same place, speaking of some Woods in it, and Rivers that emty themselves into the _Sinus Bothnicus_ or bay of _Ganduia_ next to _Helsingia_. And moreover as the _Scritfinni_ are a People of _Finland_, which not onely their name, but an old Chorographick Table commended by _Grotius_ doth intimate, distinguishing the _Fenni_ into the _Scritfenni_ and _Redefenni_, so ’tis probable of the _Biarmians_ as well for their neighbourhood to _Helsingia_, of which before, as for their worshipping a God by the name of _Jomala_, which is a _Finland_ word, denoting God amongst them to this day. Moreover the _Biarmians_ have many other things like the _Finlanders_, as the Art of darting, of Magic, _&c._ So that _Biarmia_ may be a Colony of _Finland_, whose People were called by Strangers, from their _skirring_ along, or gliding upon the snow, _Scritofinni_. But now supposing all this true, and that the _Biarmia_ of the Ancients, and _Scritfinnia_ were the same, ’tis a question still whether _Lapland_ be distinct from them or not. _Joh._ and _Ol. Magnus_ in their Geographic Tables and descriptions, make them distinct Countries. But that cannot be; for if _Scritfinnia_ and _Biarmia_ reach one way to _Helsingia_ and _Jamtia_, on the other to _Finland_; if they lye so near these Provinces, and extend to the Bay of _Bothnia_ (both which have bin demonstrated before) I do not see where _Lapland_ can have any place at all. And the same Authors are also mistaken in putting it South of _Biarmia_ and _Scritfinnia_, whereas the Antients placed these beyond it. For that they mean’t only by _Biarmia_ that which the Swedes now call _Trennes_, appears to be false from what has bin said before: for where are any Rivers in _Trennes_ that run into the Bay of _Bothnia_? and how is it bordering upon _Finland_? Wherefore contrary to _Joh._ and _Ol. Magnus_, I think rather that _Lapland_ is the same that was first by the Inhabitants called _Biarmia_, by Strangers _Scritfinnia_, then changing the name for some of the reasons here produced, it came to be _Lappia_ or _Lapponia_; which beginning from _Jamtia_ and _Angermannia_, goes all about each _Bothnia_, and at length ends in the extremities of _Carelia_ and _Finland_, so as to comprehend all the whole tract from the North even to the main Ocean, the white Sea, and the Lake _Ladek_, which are the very bounds of old _Biarmia_ and _Scritfinnia_. But that it went as far as the Ocean, the Antients seem not to have so well understood; nor indeed _Johan._ and _Ol. Magnus_, who in those parts, have made _Scritfinnia_ and _Biarmia_ different Countries from _Lapland_. So also _Damianus Goes_, who, whatever he knew of _Lapland_, had it from them, says it extends it self to unknown Regions, because he knew not who lived further towards the North Sea. But the Antients have placed there, besides the _Scritfinni_, the _Cynocephali_, _Busii_, _Troglodytes_, _Pygmies_, _Cyclops’s_,: and some others, passing by the _Himantopodes_, of whom we have spoken before: tho in this age none doubts but the _Laplanders_ inhabit it all, and those who have sailed along those Coasts have met with none others but _Laplanders_. In fine _Charles_ the 9^{th} King of _Swedland_ in the year 1600, being desirous to know the truth of that Country, sent two famous Mathematicians, _M. Aron. Forsius_ a Swedish Professour, and _Hieronymus Birkholten_ a German, with instruments, and all necessaries to make what discoveries they could of _Lapland_; who at their return, did certify, and make it out, that beyond the Elevation of the Pole 73 degrees there was no Continent towards the North but the great frozen Sea, and that the farthest point was _Norcum_ or _Norcap_, not far from the Castle of _Wardhouse_. But of this distant _Lapland_ those that are curious may enquire at their leisure, we purpose to treat here only of that which is subject to the Government of the _Swedes_; and this is a vast Country, thought by _Paulinus_ in his history of the North, of equall extent almost with all _Swedland_ properly so called. _Andr. Buræus_ says it contains in length above 100 German miles, and in breadth 90. All this Country comes now under the name of _Lapland_, in which all agree that ever described it; and if we would take an account of the Climate of it by this vast compass of Earth, we must begin from the 64^{th} degree of latitude, and so to the 71; but in longitude it must extend at least to the 27^{th} Meridian, or more. Moreover if we will compute the longitude from journies that have bin made thither, all hitherto have unanimously put the beginning of it about the 38^{th} degree, and the end in the 65^{th}. And this may suffice partly for an account of the situation of _Lapland_ in general; and partly of that which is subject to the _Swedes_. _Dam. à Goes_, a Knight of Portugall, sets its bounds thus in his description of Spain: _Lapland is divided into the Eastern and Western part, the Bothnick Sea coming between. The extremity of it is Tornia. Eastward it reaches to the white Lake, towards the North comprehending diverse Provinces, and extends it self beyond all knowledge. On the West towards Island it joins to part of Norway, and on the other side of Norway ’tis bounded with Swedland, Finland, and both the Bothnia’s._ But _Ol. Petr. Nieuren_ confutes this of the _Bothnic_ Sea lying between; for so part of _Lapland_ would lie in _Finland_ or _Ostrobothnia_, part in _Westrobothnia_, which every one knows is false: and the very vulgar can tell so much, that the _Bothnic_ Sea comes not any where within 18 or 20 miles of _Lapland_: tho this ought not to pass beyond _Damianus_’s time, since _Nieurenius_ himself confesses in another place, that the _Laplanders_ had their seat about the _Bothnic_ Sea, but that afterwards they were driven out, of which I shall speak hereafter. I will only add here a Table of the latitudes and longitudes of the chiefest Places, as they were taken by _M. Aronis Forsius_ and _Hieronymus Birckholten_ Ann. 1600.

_Longit._ _Latit._

Uma 38, 0. 65, 11.
Pitha 40, 0. 66, 14.
Lula 40, 30. 66, 30.
Tœrna 42, 27. 67, 0.
Kimi 42, 20. 67, 1.
Lappijærf 42, 33. 70, 9.
Antoware 44, 4. 70, 26.
Tenokijle 46, 0. 70, 50.
Porsanger 44, 2. 71, 42.
Porsanger 43, 35. 71, 35.
Lingen 37, 30. 70, 30.
Trænees 32, 30. 70, 25.
Euvenes 33, 35. 70, 0.
Titisare 37, 55. 69, 40.
Piala 41, 40. 60, 15.
Siguar 38, 35. 68, 59.
Tingwar 38, 0. 69, 40.
Rounula 39, 30. 69, 47.
Koutokrine 42, 0. 69, 17.
Waranger 45, 0. 71, 35.
Lanzord 45, 35. 71, 26.
Hwalsund 42, 40. 71, 12.
Skrisæ 38, 50. 71, 18.
Trumsæ 35, 52. 70, 55.
Andaces 32, 0. 70, 30.
Serghen 32, 20. 69, 3.
Wardhus 52, 0. 71, 55.
Norkaap. 45, 30. 72, 30.

I proceed next to the disposition and nature of the Country, having first given you a Map of it.

FOOTNOTES:

[3] Buræus _in his descr. of Swedland_.

[4] _Paul. Warnefrid._

[5]_Ad. Brem._ _Solin. c. 44._

CHAP. III.

_Of the temperature of the Air, and soil of_ Lapland.

We have seen how _Lapland_ is situate; let us next proceed to other particularities of it. That ’tis very near the Pole appears from its latitude, insomuch that for some months in the Summer the Sun here never sets, and on the contrary in the Winter it never rises; which _Herbersten_ says is but forty days, and tho three hours in the night the body of it is something darkned, so that his raies appear not, yet there is so much light, that they continue their work all the while. Indeed the same account is not to be taken of the whole Country, since part of it lies nearer, and part further distant from the Pole; and of these too some parts are more East, and some more to the West, from whence ’tis that with some of them the Sun is scarce above the Horizon for so many daies as he pretends. And altho in the Summer it never sets and goes below the Earth, yet neither does it rise much above it, but as it were kisses and gently glides along the Horizon for the most part; as likewise in the Winter when lowest it is not much beneath it: which is the reason that tho they have one continued night for some months, yet every day the Sun comes so near, that it makes a kind of twilight. _Joh. Magnus_ saies that in the absence of the Sun there are two twilights, one in the morning, the other in the evening, in which those poor remainders of day provide that the night should not be utterly destructive. And by how much the Sun is farther absent, the light of the Moon is clearer. Hence _Petr. Claud._ saies that when the Moon shines they go a fishing, and dispatch all other necessaries that are to be done without doors; and when it does not, if the air be clear, even the light of the Stars so much abates the darkness, that the horrour of the night is much lessened, and there is light enough for the dispatch of severall businesses, which is farther assisted by the whiteness of the Snow. The Air of _Lapland_ is cold, but fresh and clear, and consequently very wholesome, being much purified by the winds which are here very frequent and violent. It has bin attested to me by eye-witnesses, that there rises a certain wind out of the Sea, which beginning to blow raises presently such thick and dark clouds even in the midst of Summer, that they utterly hinder the sight, and in the Winter drives the snow with such force and quantity, that if any person be surprised abroad, he hath no other remedy but to throw himself on the ground with some garment over him, suffering himself to be quite buried in snow till the storm is past, which don, he rises up, and betakes himself to the next Cottage he can meet, all paths and roads being hid in the snow. But the strongest and most irresistible winds are upon the Mountains, where they throw down all things they meet with, and carry them away by their violence into far distant places, where they are never seen or heard of afterwards. Their only help against these is to convey themselves into dens and caves. Here is rain as in other places, sometimes more, and sometimes less, but in the midst of Summer, this as likewise the neighbouring Countries have very seldom any at all. Snow they have more often, and so much that in the Winter it covers all the Country, of which they make this advantage, that they can travel the more securely in the night; for the light of the Moon reflected from the snow, enlightens all the fields, that they can discern and avoid any pits, precipices and wild Beasts, that would otherwise annoy them: so convenient are the wayes for any journy, that two rein deer will draw a greater load over the trodden snow, then a Cart and ten Horses can in the fields at other times. These snows in some places, as on the tops of their highest hills, remain perpetually, and are never melted by the strongest heat of the Sun. In the upper part of _Lapland_ there are Mountains rising to such a vast hight, that the snow continues upon them Summer and Winter, and is never dissolved, but in other places the Land is every year over-flown with floods of melted snow. They have also very great frosts and mists, and good store of them, which sometimes so thicken the air, that the sight is quite obstructed, and Passengers cann’t distinguish one man from another to salute or avoid him, tho he be come close up to them. It is so extreme cold here in the Winter, that ’tis not to be endured but by those who have bin bred up in it. The swiftest Rivers are sometimes frozen so hard, that the ice is more than three or four cubits thick; and their greatest Lakes and deepest Seas bear any burdens whatever. Nor is the Summer, which to some may seem incredible, more moderately hot. For tho the Sun be very low, and his raies oblique, yet lying upon them so long together, their force is strangely increast; the only allay being from the vapors rising out of the neighbouring Sea, and from the snows, which as well in Summer as Winter continue undissolv’d in hollow places between the hills. As for Spring and Autumn they know neither, there being so very little space between the extremity of cold in the Winter, and heat in Summer, that by Strangers ’tis look’t upon as a miracle to see every thing springing fresh and green, when but a week before all things were overwhelm’d with frost and snow. _Ol. Petr. Nieuren._ has observed it as a memorable thing, and which he would not have believ’d from any one had he not seen it himself, that in the year 1616, June 24, going to the Church of _Thor_, he saw the trees budding, and the grass coming up green out of the ground, and within a fortnight after he saw the Plants full blown, and the leaves of the trees at their perfection, as if they had known how short the Summer was to be, and therefore made such hast to enjoy it. Their soil is generally neither very fertile nor barren, but between both, full of flints, stones and rocks, every where appearing high, by whose unevenness and roughness the rest of the ground about is useless. The ground is generally very soft and flabby, by reason of the many Lakes and Rivers overflowing, yet would it be fit either for tillage or pasture if any would be at the pains and charge of draining it. _Ol. Petrus_ saies of the Southern part, lying under the same climate and influence of the Heavens with _Bothnia_, that ’tis as apt to bear any grain as the Western _Bothnia_ it self, but this is not without a concurrence and aptitude likewise of the soil: and he himself confesses in Chap. 12^{th}, that the Land is stony, sandy, uneven, overrun in some places with briars and thornes, and in others nothing but hills, moores, fennes and standing waters, which are not the qualities that usually commend Land for agriculture. Then as to his urging its verdant and rich pastures, it doth not follow that all Land which yields much grass should be equally capable of bearing good corn. Yet doth the Land afford plenty of grass, and that so good that their Cattel are fatned much cheaper and sooner with it than any other thing, as also divers hearbs, but particularly ’tis happy in all kind of pot-hearbs. There are many large Woods and Forests, especially towards _Norway_, but not very thick; likewise steep rocks and high mountaines called _Doffrini_; upon whose naked tops, by reason of the violence of the winds to which they are exposed, never yet grew tree. Below these hills lie most pleasant Vallies, in which are clear fountaines and rivulets innumerable, which emtying themselves into the rivers, at length are carried into the _Bothnic_ Sea. Their water is clear, sweet and wholesome, only their Forests abound with stinking and standing Pools. This Country Winter and Summer hath an incredible number of all kinds of wild beasts, especially the lesser sorts, which suffice not only for their own use, but to drive a great trade with their neighbours. They have Birds also of all sorts very many, but Fish in such abundance that a great part of the Natives are entirely fed by them. But of all these we shall speak in their proper places, I will add no more here but this, that the Description of old _Finland_ or _Scritofinnia_ by the Ancients is the same which hath bin given here of _Lapland_; to confirm what I said before that these Countries differ only in name, and not in nature and situation. We come now to its Division.

CHAP. IV.

_Of the Division of_ Lapland.

Those who have writ of _Lapland_, mention different divisions of it. _Saxo_ in his 5^{th} Book, and elswhere, speaks of two _Laplands_, and after him _Johannes Magnus_ tells us, _that both the_ Laplands _are joined together Southward_. I suppose in that division they had respect to their situation, and meant the Eastern and the Western _Lapland_: for so _Damianus Goes_, who seems to borrow from _Joh. Magnus_, expresses it. _Lapland_, saith he, _is divided into the Eastern and the Western, separated from each other by the Bothnic Sea_. From whence we may gather that that part of the Country which lies on one side of the _Bothnia_, was called the Eastern _Lapland_, and that which lies on the other, the Western.

Besides this division of _Lapland_, there is another taken from the places most frequented by the Inhabitants. For one part thereof, lying along the Coasts of the Ocean, is from thence called _Siœfindmarken_, that is _the maritime Lapland_; the other lying higher on the Continent, _Fiœldmarken_, that is, _inland Lapland_: tho by some they are called simply _Findmarken_ and _Lappmarken_. This last division _Pet. Claud._ gives us in his 27^{th} Chapter. _All the Sea Coasts_, saith he, _Northward and Eastward as far as_ Findmarkia _reaches, are possest by the_ Siæfinni, _or maritime Finlanders, but the mountainous and champaign Country, by the Lapfinni, from thence named Lapmarkia or Wildfindlandia, that is wild or savage Findland_. Where he calls one part of the Country _Lapmarckia_, the other _Findmarckia_, the one lying along the shore, and bordering on the Sea, the other mountainous, woody, and savage, upon the _Terra firma_. And this too may be worth our notice, that _Wildfinland_ with him is that which others call _Lappmarkia_: I suppose, because the Natives live by hunting, as those of the other do by fishing. For he presently adds, _There are many thousands in that place that feed on nothing but the flesh of wild Beasts_. And indeed some there are with whom those only pass for the true _Laplanders_: as _Samuel Rheen_, who in his 2^d Chapter of his forementioned Book, tells us, _that besides the Scrickfinni_ (so he calls them that with _Pet. Claud._ are _Siœfinnes_) _there are other true_ Laplanders, _that live on nothing but rain deer_. And so from the Natives feeding on wild Beasts, _Lapland_ properly so called, is also stiled _Wildfindland_, in opposition to _Findmarkia_, whose Inhabitants live both on Fish and Cattel. And yet there may be given another reason for the imposition of this name, from the many woods of that Country. _Olaus Magnus_ in more places then one calls the natives, men that dwell in woods, or _Savages_: as in the title of his 3^d Chapt. of his 4^{th} Book, which is, _Concerning the fierceness of the_ Savages, _or those that dwell in woods_, in which Chapter he describes the _Laplanders_. And in the following Chapter he says, _that the wild_ Laplanders _are clothed with rich skins of several Beasts_. The Baron _Herberstenius_ also in his History of _Moscovy_, calls them _Savage Laplanders, who tho they dwell_, says he, _on the Sea Coast in little Cottages, and lead a brutish kind of life, are yet more civilized then the Savages of Lapland_: whence ’tis plain, that by the _Findlanders_ living near the Sea, he means those that others call _Siœfinnes_, and by the _Savage Laplanders_ those that possess the inland Country, who he thinks were so called from their wildness and barbarity. And by and by he adds, _that by converse with Strangers, who come thither to trade, they begin to lay aside their Savage nature, and become a little more civilized_. Afterwards he calls them _Diki Loppi_, which name the _Moscovites_ give them at this time, as hath been shewed elswhere.

There is also a 3^d Division of _Lapland_, that respects the several Princes to whom the Country is in subjection. And this _Andr. Buræus_ intends, when he tells us, _The greatest part of_ Lapland, viz. _the Southern and inland Country, belongs all to the Kingdom of Sweden: The maritime tract, that lies on the Ocean, and is called Findmark (whose Inhabitants the_ Siœfinni, _or maritime Findlanders, are so named from their living by fishing) to Norway: The rest of them that dwell from the_ Castle of Warhuus _to the mouth of the_ white Sea, _are subject to the Russians, which part the Swedes call Trennes, the Natives Pyhinienni, and the Russians Tarchana voloch_. Of their subjection to these severall Princes, we shall speak when we come to treat of their Government; and also of those parts that belong to _Norway_ or _Denmark_, and _Russia_. At present we shall only mention the division of that part which is under the _Swedes_, and is named by _Buræus_, the Southern and inland _Lapland_, and by _Petr. Claud._ _Lappmarkia_ properly so called. This is divided into six lesser parts called _marker_, or _lands_, tho _Buræus_ chuses to render them Territories or Provinces. Each of these have their distinct names, and are called _Aongermandlandslapmark_, _Umalappmark_, _Pithalappmark_, _Lulalapmark_, _Tornalapmark_, _Kiemilapmark_. So _Samuel Rheen_ in his first Chapter, _That part of_ Lapland _which belongs to Sweden is divided into the Kiemensian, Tornensian, Lulensian, Pithensian, Umensian, and Angermanlandensian Lapmark_. _Buræus_ mentions but five of these Provinces, viz. _Umalappmark_, _Pithalappmark_, _Lulalapmark_, _Tornelapmark_, and _Kimilapmark_, comprehending _Angermandlandslapmark_ under _Umalapmark_, not that they are one and the same Province, but because they are both governed by one Lieutenant. Each of these Provinces take their name from Rivers that run thro the midst of them, as _Wexionius_ in his description of _Swedland_ assures us. As for their situation, _Angermanlandslapmark_ borders upon _Andermannia_ and _Jemtia_, to this joins _Umalapmark_, next to that is _Pithalapmark_, and then _Lulelapmark_, all of them lying Westward, reaching on one side to that ridg of Hills that divides _Swedland_ from _Norway_, and on the other side to the Western _Bothnia_. Northward of them lies _Tornelapmark_, and extends it self from the fartheh corner of the _Bay of Bothnia_ all along the North Sea, called by Seamen _Cape Noort_. Next to this lies _Kimilapmark_, winding from the North toward the East, and bounded on one side by the Eastern _Bothnia_, on another side by that part of _Lapland_ that belongs to _Russia_, and on a third side by _Cajania_ and _Carelia_.

Moreover these Provinces we are speaking of, are subdivided into lesser parts, called by the _Swedes_ _Byar_, as _Samuel Rheen_ tells us, and are equivalent to our _Shires_, and the _Pagi_ of the Ancients. So in _Cæsar_ we meet with _Pagus Tigurinus_, and _Pagi Suevorum_, which were not Villages or Country Towns, but large parts of a Country, such as the _Greeks_ called νόμοι, used in ancient times in the division of Ægypt. Hence the _Glossary_ renders the ancient _Toparchiæ_, _Pagus_, τοπαρχία, χώρα, νόμος. There are several of these _Pagi_ or _Shires_ in each Province, except _Angermanlandslapmark_, which makes but one _Pagus_, vulgarly called _Aosahla_. _Umalapmark_ hath four, _Uma_, _Lais_ or _Raanby_, _Granby_, and _Vapsteen_. _Pithalapmark_ seven, _Graotreskby_, _Arfwejerfsby_, _Lochteby_, _Arrieplogsby_, _Wisierfby_, _Norrvesterby_, _Westerby_. _Lulalapmark_ five, _Jochmoch_, _Sochjoch_, _Torpinjaur_, _Zerkislocht_, and _Rautomjaur_. _Tornelapmark_ eight, _Tingawaara_, _Siggewaara_, _Sondewara_, _Ronolaby_, _Pellejerf_, _Kiedkajerf_, _Mansialka_, _Saodankyla_, _Kithilaby_. So that all the Territories or Provinces are divided into 33 _Byars_. In each of these there are several _Clans_ or Families, which the _Swedes_ call _rakar_, each of which have a certain allotment of ground assign’d them for the maintenance of themselves and their Cattel; not in the nature of a Country Farm with us, but of a very great length and bredth, so as to include Rivers, Lakes, Woods, and the like, which all belong to one _Clan_ or family. In every _Biar_ there are as many allotments as there are families that can live of themselves, and are not forced by poverty to serve others. In the _Byar_ called _Aosahla_ there are about 30 of these _Clans_, or families, in others more or less according as they are in bigness, which all have their several names, tho ’tis not worth while to repeat them. And thus much shall suffice of the third division of _Lapland_, not lately made (except that under _Charles IX_ some _Clans_ had certain allotments assign’d them) but derived from very ancient time; as appears from hence that neither the _Laplanders_ have known, nor the _Swedes_ given them any other, since the Country hath bin under their subjection. Nor are the words modern, or taken from any thing that may give any cause to suspect them of novelty: which I the rather observe, that from hence the native simplicity, agreable to the antiquity of the Nation, may appear.

CHAP. V.

_Of the_ Laplanders _in reference to the inclinations, temper and habit, of their minds and bodies_.

It is almost peculiar to this People to be all of them of low stature, which is attested by the general suffrage of those Writers who have described this Country. Hence the learned _Isaac Vossius_ observes, that _Pygmies_ are said to inhabit here; and adds that they are a deformed People: but in truth their feature and proportion is good enough, and that they are not distorted sufficiently appears from their great agility of body, and fitness for active emploiment. Nor need we dispute of this, since in _Sweden_, we see them every day among us, and can observe no defect in any kind, or deformity, by _Lomenius_ unjustly ascribed to them. _Ol. Mag._ and _Tornæus_ esteem their young women indifferently handsome, and of a clear skin, which I have often seen my self; for they take great care to preserve their natural beauty, which the men neglect to do: and therefore if they are less amiable then the other Sex, it is to be imputed to their choice, not nature. To which we may add the length of their frosts, and the bitterness of the Air, against which they neither arm themselves sufficiently with clothes, nor know how to do so: besides the smoak which continually fills their cottages empairs very much their natural complexion, which is the reason why most of the men also are so swarthy. And as they are generally short, they are also very lean, and ’tis rare to see a fat man amongst them, for the cold that prevents their growing tall, dries up likewise their moisture, and makes them apt to be slender. They are also very light in respect of their bulk and stature, which comes from their not eating any Salt, if we will believe _Ol. Petr._ And thus much may be said in general of the frame and condition of their bodies. As for their particular parts they have thick heads, prominent foreheads, hollow and blear eyes, short flat noses, and wide mouths. Their hair is thin, short and flaggy, their beard stragling, and scarce covers their chins. The hair of both Sexes is generally black and hard, very seldom yellow, their breasts broad, slender wasts, spindle shanks, and swift of foot. They are very strong in their limbs, so that in a bow which a _Norwegian_ can scarce half bend, they will draw an arrow up to the head. Their strength is accompanied with such activity withall, that with their bows and quivers at their backs they will throw themselves thro a hoop of but a cubit in diameter. But this seems to be spoken only of some Tumblers, for the People are generally ignorant of such sports; their usual exercises being running races, climbing inaccessible rocks and high trees. Tho they are thus nimble and strong, yet they never go upright, but stooping, which habit they get by frequent fitting in their cottages on the ground.

We come now to the habits of their mind, in which ’tis first observable that they are much given to superstition, which is no wonder while they live in Woods among wild Beasts, and maintain little correspondence one with another: but of their superstition we shall treat elswhere. Furthermore they are beyond all imagination fearfull and mean spirited, being frighted at the very sight of a strange man, or ship; above all things dreading War: the reason of all this being the cold to which they are condemn’d, and the meanness of their diet, which cannot supply good blood and spirits; wherefore they are useless in war, and the _Swedes_ who raise men in all the other Provinces, find none in this, as it appears from the ancient Records and Catalogues of all the Souldiers that ever were listed by former Kings. So that ’tis fictitious, and rather an abuse than history, which some have reported, that _Gust. Adolphus_ had several Companies of _Laplanders_ in his Armies; but they were forc’t to find out some excuse for those many defeats, which to the wonder of the World that most victorious Prince gave his powerfull and numerous Enemies; and pretend that those Victories were obtained by the help of the _Laplanders_ and Magic. Wherefore I conclude as I said before, that this opinion is absurd and contradictory, not only to the nature of the People, but to public testimonies and writings. To which we may add that they cannot well live out of their own Country, but fall into diseases and die, being no more able to endure a milder air, or feed upon salt, bread, and boiled meats, than we could upon their raw flesh and fish dried by the Sun: for it has bin often found by experience that they are hardly temted by any reward to come even into these parts, or if they do they die suddenly afterwards, much less would they be induced to march into any more remote Countries. _Olaus Magnus_ gives us an instance of six _Rain-deers_ sent to _Frederick_ Duke of _Holsatia_ by _Steno Sture_ junior Prince of _Swedland_, with two _Laplanders_, a man and woman to be their keepers, and that both they and the beasts wanting their accustom’d manner of living, died all together in a short time. _Ziegler_ indeed on the other side saies they are a valiant People, and that they were a long time free, resisting the Arms both of _Norway_ and _Swedland_; and _Scaliger_ after him saies that against their enemies they were couragious: and _Petr. Claud._ reports they had a King of their own called _Motle_, and that _Haraldus Pulcricomus_, tho he had conquered the Countries round about, could not subdue them; but all this doth not evince their courage: for whatsoever is said of this Prince _Motle_ is nothing at all to the purpose, being all taken out of the history of _Snorro_, which speaking of _Motle_, and something of his skill in Magick, has not a word of his or his Peoples courage. And ’tis manifest that _Ziegler_ could have no ground for what he said, unless from such histories as that of _Snorro_, which therefore only seem’d true because there were none extant more likely; for in his time the _Laplanders_ were subject to the _Swedes_: unless we had rather believe that he took the _Laplanders_ and the _Biarmians_ to be the same, ascribing to the one People, what was said of the other. There is indeed mention in _Saxo_, of severall Wars of the _Biarmians_, but those not managed by courage, but Magick and Enchantments: so that it no way follows, that because they continued for many Ages a free People, that therefore they were valiant. But whatever becomes of the _Biarmians_, ’tis sure enough that the _Laplanders_ are far from being stout or warlike, who must first fight against their nature, before they can resist an enemy. Besides their innate cowardise, they are strangely prone to suspicion and jealousy, being conscious of their own weakness, and so exposed to all attemts upon them: a consequent whereof is that they are also revengefull; endeavouring to prevent those mischeifs which upon the slightest occasions seem to threaten them, by the death and ruine of the Persons that caused their suspicion, helping themselves herein, by conjuration and magick. Of this _Pet. Claud._ gives us a memorable instance, in one, that having attemted to mischeif his enemy, who was secured by countercharms, after long attendance surpriz’d him asleep under a great stone, which by a spell he made break to pieces, and kill him. The women, especially when grown old, cannot brook any suddain provocation, but upon the least indignity offered fly out into passion, and are hurried to the most wild transports that madness can dictate. The _Laplanders_ besides are very notorious cheats, and industrious to over-reach each other in bargaining: tho heretofore they had the reputation of plain dealing and honesty. So that ’tis probable that they took up their present practice, having bin first cheated by those Strangers with whom they dealt, and now think it best to be before hand with one another. It is farther observable that they take great plesure, if they happen to outwit any one; imagining that tho they are hopeless to overcome by manhood and courage, they have a nobler triumph over the minds of those whom they circumvent. They are also noted to be of a censorious and detracting humor, so as to make it a chief ingredient of their familiar converse, to reproch and despise others: and this they do especially to Strangers, of what Country soever. So fond admirers are all men of themselves, that even the _Laplanders_ will not exchange their interests with the Inhabitants of the most happy Climate, and however barbarous they are, doubt not to prefer themselves in point of wisdom, to those that are most ingenuously educated in Arts and Letters. They are likewise exceedingly covetous, it being a part of their cowardize to dread poverty; yet are they very lazy withall: and hereupon _Olaus Peters_ observes, that tho their Country in several parts of it be capable of emprovement by husbandry, yet ’tis suffer’d to lye wast: nay so unwilling are they to take pains, that till they are compelled by necessity, they hardly perswade themselves to hunt or fish. From this their covetousness and sloth arises an ill consequent, their undutifulness to their Parents when grown old; not only to contemn and neglect, but even hate and abhor them; thinking it either long before they possess what they have, or thinking it grievous to provide for those from whom they can hope for no advantage.

Their last good quality is their immoderate lust, which _Herberstein_ takes to be the more strange, considering their diet, that they have neither bread nor salt, nor any other incentive of gluttony: but their promiscuous and continual lying together in the same Hut, without any difference of age, sex, or condition, seems to occasion this effect. _Tornæus_ indeed saies of his Country-men, the _Lappi Tornenses_, who possibly are reclaimed by more civill education, that they are very chast, insomuch that among them scarce one bastard is Christned in a whole year, which is the less to be wonder’d at, the women being naturally barren.

Having given this account of the _Laplanders_ ill qualities, it will now be justice to recount their vertues, as first their veneration and due esteem of Marriage, which they more seldom violate, then many who pretend to be much better Christians. They also abhor theft; so that the Merchants only cover their goods so as to secure them against the weather, when they have occasion to leave them, and at their return are sure to find them safe, and untoucht; which is the more commendable, for that in _Lapland_ there are no Towns, or store-houses, and no man could be sure of any thing, if the People were inclined to thievery. They are likewise (those I mean of the better sort) charitable to the poor, not only by receiving those that are destitute into their Huts; but supplying them with stock whereon to live. In proof of this _Tornæus_ and _Sam. Rheen_, say that ’tis usual with them to lend _gratis_, for a considerable time, ten or twenty Rain-deers. Farther they are civil and hospitable to Strangers, whom they with much kindness invite to their Huts, and there treat with the best provisions they have. And of this there are severall instances, when any have happened to be cast upon their Coast by shipwrack, or else in the snow, or on the mountains have lost their way. Moreover they are thus far cleanly as often to wash their hands and face; tho notwithstanding _Tornæus_ tells us, they are nasty and scabby, and use not to comb their heads. Lastly they are sufficiently ingenious, making for themselves all sorts of tools and implements for their fishing and hunting; and also for severall manufactures, some of which they do very artificially, as shall be shewn hereafter in its proper place.

CHAP. VI.

_Of the Originall of the_ Laplanders.