Chapter XXVI: Section III

_Further Account of the modern palaces_, _and other notable mansions in this country_.—_Houghton—Holkham—Rainham—Narford—Narborough—Oxborough_.

Of all the fine houses that now exist in this vicinity, and even throughout all the eastern parts of England, the precedence, in point of size and magnificence at least, is allowed to be due to

HOUGHTON HALL, now the princely seat of the Earl of Cholmondeley, but formerly of the Earls of Orford, of the Walpole family, from which the present possessor is maternally descended. This Splendid Mansion was built by the memorable Sir Robert Walpole, while he was prime minister, and between the years 1722 and 1735. The whole extent of the building, including the Colonade and wings, which contain the offices, is four hundred and fifty feet: the main body of the house extends one hundred and sixty six feet. The whole building is of stone, and crowned with an entablature of the Ionic order, on which is a balustrade. At each corner is a Cupola, surmounted with a lanthorn. For a description of the inside of the house, the reader is referred to the Norfolk Tour and other printed accounts. It has been long distinguished for its noble _Collection of pictures_, by the best masters; but it is no longer there; it was sold in 1779 to the late Empress of Russia, for 45,500_l._ Its removal out of the kingdom has been, much regretted, as a very humiliating circumstance, and a national disgrace; and it has been thought that the legislature ought to have purchased it, rather than suffer it to be taken out of the kingdom. But it is unavailing now to lament: that celebrated collection is irrecoverably lost to Britain. Sometime before the removal of those pictures Lord Orford gave Mr Boydell permission to take drawings of them, which he proposed having engraved by the first artists, and published in fourteen numbers, at two guineas each, which has been since done.

The duke of Lorrain, afterward Emperor of Germany, and husband to Maria Theresa, was once entertained by Sir Robert Walpole, at Houghton, with more than British magnificence.—Relays of horses were, in the meantime, provided on the roads, to bring rarities thither from the remotest parts of the kingdom, with all possible speed: and this extraordinary expedient, it seems, was continued all the while that august guest staid at Houghton. Sir Robert’s expenses, in buildings and entertainments, must have been so very great, that one is apt to wonder how he could manage to bear them, but he was a prime minister, and prime ministers are supposed capable of doing great things in the pecuniary way, without embarrassing themselves. One of Sir Robert’s successors, however, a late prime minister, seems to have been an exception to that idea: with ample means, and without any great apparent outgoings, (except what his private revels, or midnight orgies, might cost him) he could by no means manage to live, or keep out of debt, and actually died insolvent!—Circumstances so dissimilar in the history of two men who stood in the same situation, must needs be deemed somewhat odd and remarkable.

The woods, or plantations, about Houghton are extensive, and thought very fine.

“In the road from Syderstone (says the Author of the _Norfolk Tour_)
they appear we think to the greatest advantage; they are seen to a
great extent, with openings left judiciously in many places, to let
in the view of more distant woods; which changes the shade, and gives
them that solemn brownness which has always a great effect. The
flatness of the country, however, is a circumstance which, instead of
setting them off, and making them appear larger than they really are,
gives them a diminutive air, in comparison to the number of acres
really planted. For were these vast plantations disposed upon ground
with great inequalities of surface, such as hills rising one above
another, or vast slopes stretching away to the right and left, they
would appear to be almost boundless, and shew twenty times the extent
they do at present. The woods which are seen from the south front of
the house, are planted with great judgment, to remedy the effect of
the country’s flatness; for they are so disposed as to appear one
beyond another, in different shades, and to a great extent.”

Next to Houghton (if that expression may be allowed) the very best house in all this part of the kingdom is

HOLKHAM HOUSE, the splendid Seat and residence of Thomas William Coke, Esq. the far-famed patron of the Norfolk agriculturists, and one of the representatives of the county in this and several of the preceding parliaments. Mr Coke is also a descendant of the famous Lord chief justice of that name, who was himself a Norfolk man. Holkham is not of so long standing as Houghton: it was begun in 1734 by the Earl of Leicester and completed by his dowager countess, in 1760.

“The central part of this spacious mansion, built of white brick, is
accompanied by four wings, or pavilions, which are connected with it
by rectilinear corridors, or galleries: each of the two fronts
therefore display a centre and two wings. The south front presents
an air of lightness and elegance, arising from the justness of its
proportions. In the centre is a bold portico, with its entablature
supported by six corinthian columns. The north front is the grand or
principal entrance, and exhibits different, though handsome features.
The wings which partake of similar characteristics, have been thought
to diminish from the general magnificence of the building, by the
want of uniformity of style with the south front, and being too much
detached to be consistent with unity. The centre, which extends 345
feet in length, by 180 in depth, comprises the principal apartments:
each wing has its respective destination. One contains the kitchens,
servants’-hall, and some sleeping rooms. In the chapel wing is the
dairy, laundry, with more sleeping rooms. Another contains the suit
of family apartments; and the fourth, called the strangers’ wing, is
appropriated to visitors.

“This grand residence is rendered superior to most other great houses
in the kingdom, by its _convenience_ and appropriate arrangement.
The entrance _hall_, which forms a cube, has a gallery round it,
supported by twenty four Ionic columns. Next is the _saloon_, on
each side of which is a drawing room; and connected to this is the
_state dressing-room_ and _bed chamber_. Another _drawing room_
communicates with the _statue gallery_, which connects a number of
apartments in a most admirable manner; for one octagon opens into the
private wing, and the other into the strangers’, on one side, and
into the dining-room on the other. This dining-room is on one side
of the hall; and on the other is Mrs. Coke’s bed-room, dressing-room,
and closets. From the recess, in the dining-room, opens a door on
the stair case, which immediately leads to the offices; and in the
centre of the wings, by the saloon door, are invisible stair-cases,
which lead to all the rooms and respective offices. Thus here are
four general suits of apartments, all perfectly distinct from each
other, with no reciprocal thoroughfares; the state, Mrs Coke’s, the
late earl’s, and the strangers’. These severally open into what may
be called common rooms, the statue gallery, and saloon, all which
communicate with the dining room. There may be houses larger and
more magnificent, and in some more uniformity and justness of
proportion may be visible; but human genius could not contrive any
thing in which convenience could be more apparent than in this. The
fitting up of the interior is in the most splendid style, and, in
numerous instances with the most elegant taste. The ceilings of many
of the rooms are of curious gilt, fret, and mosaic work; the Venetian
windows are ornamented with handsome pillars, and also profusely
gilded. The marble chimney pieces are all handsome; but three are
peculiarly deserving attention, for their exquisite sculpture. Two
are in the dining-room, one ornamented with a sow and pigs, and a
wolf; the other has a bear and bee hives, finely sculptured in white
marble. A third, representing two pelicans, is exceedingly chaste
and beautiful. The marble side-boards, agate-tables, rich tapestry,
silk furniture, beds &c. are all in the same sumptuous style of
elegance.

“The _Statue Gallery_ consists of a central part and two octagonal
ends. The first is seventy feet long, by twenty two feet wide, and
each octagon, of twenty two feet in diameter, opens to the centre, by
an handsome arch. One end is furnished with books, and the other
with statues, &c. Among the latter, the figure of _Diana_ is
extremely fine. A _Venus_, clothed with wet drapery, is considered
exquisite. The Saloon is forty feet long, twenty eight wide, and
thirty two in height. This room, appropriated for paintings,
contains many by the most eminent masters; but they are not
exclusively preserved in this; a vast collection being distributed
over most of the apartments throughout the house.—In a brief
statement it will be impossible to give a just and adequate
delineation of the pleasure grounds and park, with the various
objects which environ and decorate this museum of taste and seat of
hospitality.” {168}

Nor would such a delineation be very necessary for this work, as but few of its readers can be supposed altogether unacquainted with the premises.—After Holkham, the next place is due to

RAINHAM HALL, the venerable seat and residence of the late _marquis Townshend_. This house is of a much longer standing than either of the former; being built, as we are told, about 1630, by Sir Roger Townshend, bart. under the direction of that excellent and celebrated architect Inigo Jones. Its situation has been supposed the most delightful in the county. The house itself, though it has been greatly improved by the late marquis, is said to be in the style of an exceeding good habitable mansion rather than a magnificent one. The country around is rich, and charmingly cultivated. The park and woods are beautiful, and the lake below peculiarly striking. Extensive lawns, and opening views into the country, enrich the enlivening scene, and display the beauties and bounties of nature in their most enchanting and luxuriant pride. {169} Since the death of the late marquis this house has ceased to be the residence of the family.—To the preceding Mansions may be added

OXBOROUGH, or OXBURGH-HALL, the seat of the _Bedingfields_, which is said to present features of a striking kind, and to be a peculiar and interesting remnant of ancient domestic architecture. It was erected as long ago as the latter end of the fifteenth century, by Sir _Edmund Bedingfield_, who obtained a grant, or patent of Edward IV. in 1482, to build the manor house with towers, battlements, &c. It is built of brick, and was originally of a square form, environing a court, or quadrangle, one hundred and eighteen feet long, and ninety two broad; round which the apartments were ranged. The whole building resembles Queen’s College, in Cambridge; a structure of about the same period. The entrance is over a bridge, formerly a drawbridge, through an arched gate way, between two majestic towers, which are eighty feet high. In the western tower is a winding brick staircase beautifully turned, and lighted by quatrefoil ilet-holes. The other tower is divided into four stories; each consisting of an octagonal room, with arched ceilings, stone window frames, and stone fire places. Between the turrets is an arched entrance gateway, the roof of which is supported by numerous groins; and over this is a large handsome room, having one window to the north and two bow windows to the south. These windows, and the whole exterior of this part of the building appear to be in their original state. The floor of the great room is paved with small fine bricks, and the walls covered with very curious tapestry. This appears to be of the age of Henry VII. and is mentioned in several wills of the family. The apartment is called “the King’s room,” and is supposed to have been appropriated to the monarch just mentioned, when he visited Oxburgh. In the eastern turret is a curious small closet, called a _hiding place_, which appears to have been an original part of the structure: it is a cavity, or hollow in the solid wall, measuring six feet by five feet, and seven feet high, and is approached by a secret passage through the floor. A similar hiding place is said to have been destroyed in that part of the building which has been taken down. The great hall, which had an oaken roof, in the style of the justly admired one at Westminster Hall; and other rooms, which formed the south side of the court, were taken down in 1778, and the distribution of almost every apartment has been successively changed. The offices are now on the east side, and the dining parlour, drawing room, and library, on the west. The whole is surrounded by a moat, about fifty two feet broad, and ten feet deep, which is supplied with water from an adjacent rivulet. In the different apartments, which are both spacious and elegant, are preserved a few good pictures, by eminent painters, and a collection of ancient armoury. {171} This venerable seat is the property of Sir Richard Bedingfield, but at present the residence of Lord Mountjoy.

Of the other modern mansions in these parts, mentioned at the close of the first section of this chapter, it seems needless here to give any further account, except those of _Narford_ and _Narborough_. These, it must be allowed, deserve a more particular attention; not on account of the structures themselves, but of the curious and valuable articles they contain—or lately did contain; for what did once so much distinguish NARBOROUGH HALL, is no longer there.—It was a _noble collection_ of _coins_ and _medals_, ancient and modern; and the most valuable private collection, perhaps, in Britain, if not in Europe. Its possessor, the late Mr. Tyssen, assured this writer, that it had cost him, from first to last, above 20,000_l._ though he had been fortunate enough to purchase many of the most valuable articles much under the prices they usually fetch. In this collection were coins of the Grecian states and cities; a regular series of those of Philip and Alexander, of Alexander’s successors, of the Ptolemies, and the Cæsars—all in gold, in the highest state of preservation, and of most exquisite workmanship, (all but those of the former part of Philip’s reign, before he had become master of Greece, and could command the service of its artists,) and far exceeding the best of modern productions, except, perhaps, those of _Thomas Simon_, and _Dossier_, which come the nighest to the ancients. Many other curiosities were to be found at Narborough, and not the least among them was a MS. copy of the _Eikon Bazilike_, one of the most perfect specimens of fine penmanship extant, perhaps, on so large a scale. The pages, the lines, and the letters, were uniform, and exquisitely neat throughput. It was a quarto volume, and said to be written, or transcribed by I. THOMASEN, schoolmaster, at Tarvin, in the county palatine of Chester. He was said to have written three different copies, all in nearly equal perfection: of the other two, one is deposited in the King’s library, and the other in the British Museum; but this was said to be the best the three. To the best of this writer’s recollection, Mr. Tyssen said, that it cost him a hundred guineas, nor did he seem to repent of his bargain. The price it fetched at the sale, however, fell greatly short of that sum.—An ancient shield, denoting and commemorating the taking of Carthage, was another of the late curiosities of Narborough: it represented one of the fair damsels of that devoted city, bearing the keys, and delivering them to Scipio, followed by a long train of the principal inhabitants, whose dejected and woeful looks, bespoke the grief and anguish that had then overwhelmed the Carthaginian nation.—Close to Narborough Hall is an old fortification, the remains of an ancient encampment, called the burgh; from whence to Oxburgh and Eastmore-fen, extends a large foss and rampart, whose original designation seems not very easy to discover.—In making a garden near the burgh, in 1600, several human and pieces of armour were found. This place is said to be peculiarly interesting to the antiquary; and it is supposed that a small Roman station was once established here. John Brame, a monkish writer, in a manuscript history, quoted by Spelman in his Icenia, says, that Narborough was a British city, governed by an earl _Okenard_, about the year 500, when it stood a seven months siege against a king _Waldy_: but little reliance, however, can be placed on such authority. In the adjoining parish of _Narford_, numerous Roman bricks and other relics, are said to have been found: also a large brass vase, or urn, was dug up in the court yard of the manor house,

NARFORD HALL, the seat of Andrew Fountaine Esq. It was erected in the reign of George I. by the late Sir Andrew Fountaine, Knt. of whom some account will be given in the next section. He was a great collector of rarities, and made his house the repository of works of art and learning. At present it is said to display a choice collection of pictures, ancient painted earthenware, some bronzes, coins, and a fine library of books, supposed to be the best in the whole county. The room, in which these books are deposited, is forty feet by twenty one; and contains, beside the books, several Roman and Egyptian Vases, and portraits of eminent men. This library seems not to have been collected for mere ostentation. The original collector is said to have been a man of letters, as well as a connoiseur and virtuoso, and one, at least, of his successors has been reputed a literary character, and a proficient in some branches, especially _Spanish_ literature; in which language the said library contains many rare and valuable articles, one of which he sometime ago translated into English, and it has since made its appearance from the Swaffham Press.

Several springs of mineral water, of the chalybeate kind, are to be found in the neighbourhood of Lynn, on this eastern side; of which one is at Riffley, and another on Gaywood common, both within two miles of the town. There is also another beyond Setchey, on the Downham road. There are others in East Winch parish, one of which is much more strongly impregnated than any of the rest, and might, perhaps, be ranked, in point of medicinal virtue, with some of those springs that have acquired so much celebrity as to become places of considerable resort. This Spring is said to be strongly impregnated with what chymists and mineralogists call sulphate of iron.