Chapter VII: Part 7

KING _Charles_ I. design’d and endeavour’d the most compleat and absolute Reformation of any of his Predecessors; and at the Solemnity of St. _George_, held at _Windsor_ the 6th of _October_, in the 6th Year of his Reign, He commission’d Nine Knights-Companions, _viz._ the Earls of _Mulgrave_, _Pembroke_, _Montgomery_, _Arundel_, _Surry_, _Salisbury_, _Carlisle_, _Dorset_, _Holland_, _Berkshire_ and _Suffolk_, with command to assemble Four Times in a Year, to take into their Consideration the Affairs of the Order; all which, but the Earls of _Mulgrave_ and _Dorset_, met at _Whitehall_ the 2d of _January_ following, where some few Matters fell under their Consultation. This Commission was seconded by one of a larger extent about Three Months after, and directed to the said Knights-Companions, or to any Eight, Seven, Six, Five or Four of them, empowering them to meet and devise, and exactly preponderate all the Statutes and Ordinances of the Order, as well such as were established at the Foundation, as those that had been since made, by Explanation or Addition, and to weigh advisedly whether any Thing had been enacted, that had caused Doubt or Ambiguity, or stood in need of any Change or Amendment; and if upon mature Deliberation by them thus conven’d, there should appear any Contrariety or Defect, for want of plain Expression, or other Omission, fit to be supplied, tending to the Honour of the Order, That then the Sovereign might, upon Return of their Proceedings, resolve upon some general Declaration in Chapter, to reform and reduce into one Body all the Statutes and Ordinances thereof, that the same being compil’d and settled in one perfect Model, might be so consign’d to Posterity, free from all future Questions and Doubts.

NEVERTHELESS not any thing was done upon this Commission, tho’ it stood in force even from the 6th to the 13th Year of this King’s Reign; but where the Neglect lay History does not fully inform us, tho’ it may be conjectur’d by what follows.

AT the Feast of St. _George_, celebrated by Prorogation at _White-hall_, for the Year 1636. upon the 17th, 18th, and 19th Days of _April_, 1637. divers Petitions for Reformation, and reducing of Matters to their pristine Constitution, were presented to the Sovereign by the Chancellor, and read; some of which, more especially, tending to set off and encrease the Honour of the Order, were received and decreed by the Sovereign, and the rest referr’d to the said Knights-Commissioners. The first of those Decrees which at that time had its Sanction, was to revive and renew the Powers given in the former Commission; and thereupon a new one, dated the 7th of _May_ following, was issued under the Great Seal of the Order, and directed to the Earls of _Mulgrave_, _Darby_, _Pembroke_, and _Montgomery_, _Arundel_, and _Surry_, _Kelly_, _Salisbury_, _Dorset_, _Holland_, _Barkshire_, _Suffolk_, _Lyndsey_, _Exeter_, Marquiss _Hamilton_, Duke of _Lenox_, the Earls of _Darby_, _Moreton_, and _Northumberland_, or to Three or more of them, to meet and consult of any Matters contain’d in the Statutes, or for Honour of the Order. These Knights-Commissioners were endow’d with all the plenary Powers given in the foresaid Commission, dated 6 _Car._ I. unto which was granted a further Addition, for the better effecting the Sovereign’s Care: That Three or more of them should meet at the Sovereign’s Court, and begin to put the said Commission in execution in _Whitson_ Week next ensuing, attended and assisted by the Chancellor of the Order, and all, or any other Officers, or such of them as they should fix on, or find serviceable. And being assembled, to have free Liberty to hear, propound, and debate of whatsoever shall fall under their Cognisance, or that they should conceive conducible to the Honour and perfect Establishment of so Illustrious and Noble a Body. And to prepare all Matters of such their Resolutions and Debates to be laid before the Sovereign at the next Feast of St. _George_, and so successively at every Chapter so appointed by him, to receive his full Determination, Approbation, and Royal Assent, with further Power to adjourn from time to time, after the first Opening and Reading of the said Commission; their Meetings to be in such Places, and on such Days as should seem most convenient to them.

NOW who wou’d suppose, that after so Noble an Intention of the Sovereign, and his earnest Solicitude to issue forth a second Commission, his hearty recommending and exciting their Deligence for a speedy Dispatch, and lastly, his expecting an Account of their Transactions the next Feast, these honourable Persons, Companions of the Order, should need a Spur to accomplish so laudable a Design; but it was so.

FOR altho’ the Commission was opened at _White-hall_ the 30th of May following, in the Presence of the Earls of _Pembroke_ and _Montgomery_, _Salisbury_, _Holland_, Marquiss of _Hamilton_, and Duke of _Lenox_, Commissioners; yet Sir _Thomas Row_ Chancellor, in his Letter to Dr. _Christopher Wren_, dated the 4th of _June_, 1637. sadly complained, That it was much as he could do to draw together Five of the Knights-Companions, to open and read the Commission, and this _quasi in transitu_, was in Confusion and Hurry, and all that was transacted was to appoint another Convention at Court in _Midsummer_ Week then next ensuing, and charge the Chancellor to prepare Matter (for Propositions and Observations upon the Statutes) fit for their Consultations against that Appointment, according to the Tenor of the Commission. And in another Place writes, That he found such Difficulty to procure Meetings, and as certain _non Chalance_ in every one, as if it were but a ceremonious Affair, and so few hearty in it, that he feared he and the Officers should wait to little Purpose: And so indeed it fell out; for albeit he attended in _Midsummer_ Week, according to their Direction, yet there was nothing dispatch’d, save only the adjourning of their Meeting to _London_.

SOME little Progress was afterwards made in this Affair at _White-hall_ the 8th of _February_ following, where Three of them were present, _viz._ the Earls of _Berkshire_, _Lindsey_, and _Northumberland_, who order’d the Chancellor, Register, and Garter, to prepare an Abbreviation of the Statutes, and reduce every thing of one Head into an Act, to keep up to Method, and avoid Confusion.

THE 1st of _February_ after, another Assembly of Seven of the Knights-Commissioners was held at _White-hall_, in whose Presence a few Points were debated; but little or nothing concluded.

§ 4. AS concerning the Annals of the Order, or the Books wherein the several Resolutions and Decrees occasionally made in Chapters, and wherein other historical and ceremonial Matters relating to it are recorded, it will not be amiss to give some Account of them in this Place.

THE first, in Order of time, is an old Paper Book written in _French_, call’d _Registrum Chartaceum_, hitherto fortunately preserv’d in the Paper Office at _White-hall_, which probably was begun by _John Coningham_; for we find him, 1414. (a little before the Annals commenced) made Canon of _Windsor_, and Register of the Order, and in regard the same Hand-Writing is carry’d on from the Beginning of the Book down to 16 _Hen._ VI. inclusive, where follows an _Hiatus_ till _Anno_ 23 _Hen._ VI. that the Annals began to be set down with another Hand; and that he shortly after died in 1445. Henceforward these Annals are entred with promiscuous Hands, which may be presumed the proper Hand-Writings of the Registers of this Noble Order, as they succeeded each other in the Office.

AFTER we find _Richard Sidnor_ mention’d in the Register _Anno_ 16 _Hen._ VIII. (who subscribed his Name at the foot of every Leaf) the Annals were pen’d in one Hand until _Anno_ 26 _Hen._ VIII. that _Robert Aldrydge_, D. D. and one of the Canons of _Windsor_ succeeded him; and then ’tis evident the Writing also was changed to an old set _Roman_ Hand, which ran on to the End of 29 _Hen._ VIII. in which Year he was advanced to the Bishoprick of _Carlisle_; and this Book breaks off in the 31st of his Reign.

BESIDES this there is another Book that goes by the Name of the _Black Book_, wherein the Annals of the Order are transcribed in _Latin_, concerning which there pass’d a Decree, _Anno_ 3 _Hen._ VII. that it should be fairly copy’d out, and afterwards that the Sovereign should be put in Remembrance of it; but neither of these Decrees was put in execution, nor was this confirm’d till towards the End of the Reign of King _Henry_ VIII. This Book differs very little from the _Registrum Chartaceum_, for therein is nothing enrolled relating to the Order (except one of the Exemplars of the Founders Statutes, and a Catalogue of the first Twenty-five Knights-Companions) before the 4th Year of King _Henry_ V. the Annals of the Order, until that time, being entirely lost. It hath the same Hiatus or Intervals from 16 to 23 _Hen._ VI. from 7 to 10 of _Edw._ 4. from 4 to 7 _Hen._ VII. and from 10 to 14 _Hen._ 7. It also runs parallel therewith for the most part, and that it was compil’d by Dr. _Aldrydge_, whilst he continu’d Register, is collected from some Passages in the Preface of all the Sovereigns, ending with King _Henry_ VIII. The Transcription of this Book was finish’d _Anno_ 13 _Hen._ VIII. for so far is written, as also the Appendix, with one and the same Hand; (in a middle-siz’d Text) but _Anno_ 32 _Hen._ VIII. another Hand appears, which, with some Variation, is continu’d to the End of 5 _Edw._ VI. where this Book breaks off.

THE Register of the Order was oblig’d to provide Two Books, and therein to enter the Ordinances, Statutes, and Acts of this Noble Corporation, one to be lodg’d at the Chapter House at _Windsor_, and call’d, _Index Windesoriensis_, and the other being a Duplicate of the former, to remain in his own Custody, ready to expose to the View of the Sovereign, whensoever he should demand it; this latter was called _Aulæ Registrum_.

AS to the general Directions for Compiling these Books, and the Particulars they are to consist of, we are inform’d from the said Statutes and Constitutions; for besides the Entry of all the Scrutinies taken in Chapter and Elections made thereupon, it is his Office to record the Penalties inflicted on Knights-Companions, and the Reconciliation of all Delinquents with other Acts, and their Causes appertaining to the Order, all which are decreed to be recited before the Sovereign and Knights-Companions at the Beginning of the Chapter yearly, if Occasion be, to correct and reduce into Method. Moreover he is to record all the Policies in War, Exploits, Transactions, and memorable Atchievements, both of the Sovereign and Knights-Companions, according as he can best attain the Knowledge of them, by his own diligent Search, or the Assistance of Mr. Garter, which having consign’d to Writing from Year to Year, is to be perused at the next Chapter by the Knights-Companions, for their Approbation and Correction; and being reiterated the second time in the Chapter, he is to see that they be fairly engrossed in the said Book, for a perpetual Remembrance.

AND because the time perfix’d for Rehearsal of these Particulars in Chapter, had in succeeding Years been imploy’d in other Affairs. In one of those Articles which the Knights-Companions exhibited to King _Jac._ I. the 19th of _May, Anno Jac._ R. 20. and ratified the 22d of _May_ following, it was decreed that nothing of this Nature, or any other Act in Chapter, should be registred before it had been perus’d and pass’d the Consideration of the then Knights-Companions, or at least Four of them, who when they should set Times apart to consult of the Affairs of this Order (for which they were chiefly commission’d) might then also make Use of such Opportunities as should give this Business Dispatch with more Conveniency. Upon mature Consideration had of those Injunctions, the then Register at a Chapter held 19 _Nov._ 22 _Car._ II. presented the Continuation of the Annals of this Order, which he had ranged in order to register in the _Liber Carolinus_, and submitted them to the Approbation of the Knights-Companions, whom the Sovereign had commission’d to inspect the Affairs of the Order; which Tender, when they declin’d, he propos’d that it might pass the Examination of the Prelate; but they not giving their Assent to it, in regard the Register himself was under the Obligation of an Oath, to deal with the utmost Fidelity in his Reports, it was decreed, That the said Annals should be fairly recorded in the Book, without any further Inspection.

BESIDES the abovemention’d Particulars, there were Materials of another Nature, decreed to be collected by the Chancellor of the Order and Garter King of Arms, to be digested first, and after entred by the Register; for whereas one part of the Chancellor’s Duty was to make a Narration every Year in Chapter, at the Feast of St. _George_, of the illustrious Exploits of the Knights-Companions, as well as the Actions that tend to eclipse their Glory; so the Register was to note these, and record them from a perpetual Æra or Memorial of their Honour or Disgrace.

AND it is part of Garter’s Duty diligently to enquire after the Valiant, Fortunate, and Renown’d Acts, both of the Sovereign and the rest of the Knights-Companions, and relate them with all Exactness to the Register, for his Engrossing: But how sparingly these are put in execution, the Annals themselves bear witness. However, Sir _Edward Walker_ Garter-King has drawn up an Account of the shining Actions and Characters of the Knights-Companions, beginning with _Thomas_ Earl of _Strafford_, and continuing it down to his Son, which he deliver’d Dr. _Ryves_ the Register, for the Use afore-directed.

AMONG the Articles establish’d at the Feast of St. _George_, 21 _Jac._ I. the last is, That the then Register should compose a Book, wherein should be orderly transcribed the Form and Manner of all the Solemnities, Ceremonies, and Processions, at the Celebration of the Order; as also of taking down and offering the defunct Knight’s Atchievements, that the Knights-Companions might have free Recourse to it; but such Book never was extant.

For the Safety and Preservation of the _Annals_, the Knights-Commissioners determined the 22nd of _May, An. Jac._ I. 20. That a secure and convenient Place within the Castle of _Windsor_ should be appointed, in which all Acts concerning the Order should be reposed, and to which every Knight-Companion at all times might have access. And upon the Remove or Decease of the Register of the Order, the Book, containing the Account of all such Transactions, should be committed to one of the Knights of the Order.

The second of these Books is called the _Blue Book_, so call’d, being bound in Blue Velvet; it begins with the first Year of Queen _Mary_, and ends at the 18th of King _Jac._ I.

The third being bound in Red Velvet, is denominated the _Red Book_; it commences where the _Blue Book_ leaves off, and treats of the like Acts and Entries, and is carry’d down to 14 _Car._ I: having first given a full Account of the Installation of the Prince, afterwards King _Charles_ II. And as to great part of this Work, it was perform’d by the elegant and judicious Dr. _Matthew Wren_, Bishop of _Ely_, and Register of the Order, whose excellent Pattern his Brother and Successor Dr. _Christopher Wren_ hath copy’d in its following Tract. This Bishop compiled a MS. _A. D._ 1631. wherein, by way of Comment upon King _Henry_ VIII’s Statutes, he hath compendiously shewn what Alteration there hath passed in the Law of the Garter, a Work performed with great Judgment, and exceedingly useful to the Curious.

The fourth and last Book is, _Liber Carolinus_, and commences 1640. wherein the _Annals_ are brought down to the beginning of 1670. by _Ryves_, then Register. And in a Chapter conven’d at _Windsor_ the 16th of _April, Anno_ 13 _Car._ II. it was decreed, That there should be Two of these Books compiled, the one printed in _Latin_, in the Custos of the Register at _Windsor_; and the other in _English_, to be reserv’d at _Whitehall_, and call’d, _Registrum Aulicum_.

CAP. VII.

_The_ Habit _and_ Ensigns _of the Order_.

THE Habit and Ensigns of this most Noble Order are most eminently distinguishable and magnificent, and consist of these Particulars, _viz._ Garter, Mantle, Surcoat, Hood, George, and Collar; for as the _Romans_ were very exact and particular in assigning each Degree a peculiar Habit and Vesture, by which the Quality and Rank of their Citizens might be discernable, the Distinction of Apparel was afterwards taken up by divers other Nations, whence every Military, as well as Ecclesiastick Order of Knighthood, did appropriate to it self a peculiar Dress, Ensign, or Badge, as a Mark of Distinction one from another, to set off the Lustre and Honour of their several Societies.

The four first, _viz._ the Garter, Mantle, Surcoat, and Hood, were assigned the Knights Companions, by the Founder, and the George and Collar by King _Henry_ VIII. and all these together are called the whole Habit or Ensigns of the Order, which we shall treat of succinctly, beginning with the Garter.

The Royal Garter challengeth the Preheminence, for from it this famous Order receiv’d its Denomination: It is the first part of the Habit presented to Foreign Princes and Absent Knights, and that wherewith they, and all other elect Knights, are first adorn’d; and of so great Honour and Grandeur, that by the bare Investiture with this Noble Ensign, the Knights are esteem’d Companions of the greatest Military Order in the World.

The Materials whereof it was compos’d at first, is an _Arcanum_; nor is it described by any before _Polydore Virgil_, and he but in general: As to the ornamental Part of it, it was adorn’d with Gold and precious Stones, and had a Buckle of Gold at the End, to fasten it about the Leg; but there’s no doubt but it was wrought with rich Embroidery, and the Motto rais’d with Gold, Pearl, and sundry Sorts of Silk, as may be guess’d from the Garters anciently plac’d on the left side of the Knights-Companions Mantles, and those other little embroider’d Garters, wherewith their Surcoats and Hoods were heretofore embellish’d.

The present Habits, Ensigns and Badges, belonging to the Officers of the Garter.

_The Prelate & Chancellors Mantle._

_Registers, Garters & Black Rods Mantle._

_Garters Scepter._

_Black Rod_

_Chancellors Badge_

_Garters Badge_

_Black Rods Badge_
]

_Chancellors Badge_

_Garters Badge_

_Black Rods Badge_

_The Garter_

_The Sovereigns Mantle._

_Hood._ _Surcoat._

_The Collar and Great George_

_Ribbond & George_

_A Knight Companions Mantle._

_Cap and Feather._ ]

BUT of those wrought in the last Age, we have more particular Satisfaction; for we find the Garter sent to _Emanuel_ Duke of _Savoy_, _Anno_ 1 and 2 _Philip_ and _Mary_, was set with Letters of Goldsmith’s Work, the Buckle and Pendant of the same, and on the Pendant a Ruby, and a Pearl hanging at the End. The Garter made for _Francis_ II. _Anno_ 6 _Elizabeth_, was richly wrought with Letters of Gold, set off and garnish’d with Stones, the Buckle and Pendant weighing Three Ounces and an half-quarter, was richly set with Rubies and Diamonds. The _French_ King _Henry_ IV. had a Garter of Purple Velvet embroider’d with Letters of Gold, and deck’d out with Diamonds and Rubies. And the Garter of _Christian_ IV. King of _Denmark_, was embroider’d with Gold and Pearls: But that Garter sent to _Gustavus Adolphus_ King of _Sweden_, outvied all others conferr’d by former Sovereigns, each Letter of the Motto being compos’d of small Diamonds; and for every Stop, a Diamond within a Range of Diamonds, above and below, on the sides of the Garter, and besides other Diamonds on the Buckle, and about the same, to the Number in all of 411.

THE Garter which King _Charles_ I. wore upon his Leg at the Time of his Martyrdom, had the Letters of the Motto compos’d likewise of Diamonds, which amounted to the Number of 412. It came to the Hands of Captain _Preston_ (one of the Usurper’s Captains) from whom the Trustees, for Sale of the King’s Goods, receiv’d it, and sold it to _Ireton_, sometimes Lord Mayor of _London_, for 205 _l._ But after the Restoration, the King’s Attorney-General proceeding upon an Action of _Trover_ and _Conversion_, Verdict was given for the King against him for 205 _l._ and 10 _l._ costs of Suits, in _Trinity_ Term, 16 _Car._ II.

THE Motto of King _Charles_ II. was set with Diamonds upon Blue Velvet, and the Borders wrought with fine Gold Wire; the Diamonds which framed the Letters of the Motto, were Rose Diamonds, much of a Size or Proportion; but those which framed the Stops, Table-Diamonds; the Total which set each Letter, compos’d the Stops, Ilot Holes, and adorn’d the Buckle; the Table was Two Hundred and Fifty; the Hinge of the Buckle was pure Gold, and on it the Sovereign’s Picture to the Breast, curiously cut in Flat-stitch, crown’d with a Laurel and the military Garb of the first _Roman_ Emperors; the Table or Pendant was Gold, and on the back-side thereof engrav’d St. _George_ on Horse-back encountring the Dragon.

THIS noble Ensign, the Garter, was at the Erection of the Order appointed to be wore on the left Leg, a little beneath the Knee, which Usage still presides: And the placing it thus, on the Sepulchral Portraictures of Knights-Companions, was an early Custom; for on the Alabaster Monument of Sir _William Fitz-warin_, who was interr’d in the North-side of the Chancel at _Wantage_ in _Com. Berks_, 35 _Edw._ III. he lies there with his Surcoat of Arms upon his Breast, and the Representation of a Garter (but without Motto) carv’d upon his left Leg. In the same Posture lies Sir _Richard Pembridge_, elected a Knight-Companion, _temp. Edw._ III. and is portraicted on his Monument in the South-side of the Cathedral of _Hereford_, below the Pulpit, and encompass’d with a Rail of Iron-Spikes.

THE next Monument whereon the Garter was depicted, was that erected for Sir _Simon Burley_, (beheaded _A. D._ 1388.) and rear’d in the North-Wall near the Choir of St. _Paul_’s, _London_. Thence-forward the Practice became more frequent, and then the Motto began to be cut thereon; insomuch that it is now the constant and just Practice to do it, whensoever the Knights-Companions are exhibited in Effigies.

AND altho’ this Ensign was first design’d in Ornament to the left Leg, yet it was not confin’d so solely thereto, but was anciently us’d to incircle the Escutcheon of St. _George_’s Arms, worn by the Sovereign and Knights-Companions on their Mantles, who within a small space after us’d it to surround their own proper Coat of Arms, which their Successors have retain’d as their peculiar Privilege, permitting it to none but to their principal Officer, the Prelate of the Order.

THE first Example that occurs, is the before-mention’d of Sir _Francis Burley_, where, on the Front, towards the Head, is his own Arms empaling his first Wife’s, set within a Garter, (wanting the Impress;) but another having the same Empalement, (plac’d below the Feet) is surrounded with a Collar of SS. of the same Form with that about his Neck.

THE Monument also of _Joan_, Wife of _Ralph Nevil_, Earl of _Westmoreland_, on the South-side of the Choir, in the Cathedral of _Lincoln_, bears the Arms of _Nevil_, empaling those of _Joan_, his Wife, (who dy’d _A. D._ 1410.) Incircled within a Garter, and fix’d on this Lady’s Monument, Daughter to _John_ of _Gaunt_, Duke of _Lancaster_, is there such a Collar of SS. placed about a Square; but the Paint being faded, was render’d unintelligible.

ANOTHER antique Instance is that Escutcheon, _Sable, Three Ostrich Feathers Argent_, surrounded with the Garter, affix’d in the Glass-Windows of _Greenwich_-Church in _Kent_, by _Humfrey_, Duke of _Glocester_, and Supported with a Greyhound and an Antelope. It is reported, these Three Feathers were the Ensign of King _Henry_ IV. which were conferr’d by _John_ of _Gaunt_, his Father, who bore them for his Device, and placed in a _Field Sable_, as here, but the Pens were powder’d with _Ermin_, for a difference from the Black Prince’s Feather, which were _Argent_, as the King’s Pen was _Or_, and the Duke of _Somerset_’s Compony _Argent_ and _Azure_.

THE Arms of Sir _Lewis Robessart_, Lord _Bourchier_, Knight-Companion, _temp. Hen._ V. we find encompass’d with a Garter on each side his Monument, in _Westminster-Abbey_.

AT the Interment of _Richard_ Duke of _York_, Father to King _Edw._ IV. at every Corner of the Majesty-Escutcheon (set over the Image of the Defunct) was an Escutcheon of the Arms of _France_ and _England quarterly_, and _Four Angels Gold_, holding the same within a Garter. And so some of the Funeral Escutcheons of _John_ Viscount _Wells_, (who dy’d 14 _Hen._ VII.) were surrounded with the Garter, as others bearing his Lady’s Arms.

AT the Interment of _Thomas_ Duke of _Norfolk_, in _Thetford-Abbey_, (who dy’d 16 _Hen._ VIII.) there was provided a Shield of his Arms within a Garter, and a Coronet affix’d over it; a Target also of the Arms of _George_, Earl of _Shrewsbury_, within a Garter, was born at his Funural, _Anno_ 33 _Hen._ VIII.

IT was the Custom, (begun about the Reign of _Hen._ VII.) when the Obsequies of any Foreign Prince were celebrated in _England_, to paint an Escutcheon of such Prince’s Arms within the Collar of the Order, whereof he was Sovereign or a Fellow-Companion; as those of the _French_ King, _Charles_ VIII. celebrated at St. _Paul_’s, _London_, had Escutcheons of the Arms of _France_, within the Collar of the Order of St. _Michael_, at each End of the Hearse; and when the Obsequies of _John_ King of _Portugal_ were solemniz’d at St. _Paul_’s, there was, among others, one large Escutcheon of his Arms within the Collar of the _Golden Fleece_. The Funeral Rites of the Emperor _Charles_ V. being perform’d in _Westminster-Abbey_, 22 and 23 _Dec._ 1558. there were Ten great Escutcheons compass’d with Garters, to shew he was a Fellow of this Order: And upon the same Account, where Princes were Sovereigns of one, and Companions of another Order, their Hearses were hung with Escutcheons of their Arms, surrounded with the Collars or principal Badges of both those Orders; as at the Interment of _Francis_ I. the _French_ King, celebrated at St. _Paul_’s, _London_, 1 _Edw._ VI. the Escutcheons were the Arms of _France_, encompass’d within the Garter of St. _George_, and Collar of St. _Michael_. At the Obsequies of _Hen._ II. of _France_, _Anno_ 1 _Eliz._ at St. _Paul_’s also, there were some Escutcheons of his Arms, incircled both with the Garter and Collar of the _Golden Fleece_, having been a Knight-Companion of both these Orders: Under the Joysts was a Majesty Escutcheon of Black Taffaty of this King’s Arms, within a Garter crown’d with an Imperial Crown, and in several Places of the Hearse were fasten’d other Escutcheons of his Arms within this principal Ensign of the Garter.

KING _Hen._ VIII. was the first that introduc’d into his Great Seal the Eschutcheon of his Arms incircled within a Garter, as may be seen placed on either side his Portraiture sitting on his Royal Throne; since him, all succeeding Sovereigns have born their Arms after that Manner, not only in their great and Privy-Seals, but in those other appertaining to their Courts of Justice, and generally in all Matters where their Arms were visible (except Coins); in Imitation of whom, the Knight-Companions have done the like.

BUT there were _An._ 21 _Car._ 1. certain Half Crowns stamp’d in the West of _England_, containing the Sovereigns Arms, so encompassed, regally crowned and supported; and this was the first Money whereon the Royal Garter appeared. After him King _Charles_ II. having an Eye to the Advancement of the Honour of this Order, caused the irradicated Cross of St. _George_ encompass’d about with the Royal Garter to be publickly stamp’d in the Center of his Silver Coin, struck upon the Recoinage of it, _Anno_ 14. _Car._ 2.

THERE were other Medals heretofore stamp’d upon several Occasions, wherein the Garter was designedly express’d, and enclosing Shields of their Arms; as that in the Year 1619. _Frederick_ Prince _Palatine_ of the _Rhine_, was crowned King of _Bohemia_, and _Robert Cecil_ Earl of _Salisbury_ created Lord Treasurer, both Knights Companions of this Noble Order: Moreover, Gold Rings have been cast into the Figures of Garters; the Ground on the outside enamell’d with a deep Blue, through which the golden Letters of the Motto appearing, set them off with an admirable Beauty. And it seems such Rings were in vogue since the Preface to the black Book of the Order makes mention of wearing the Garter on the Leg and Shoulder, and sometimes likewise subjoins the Thumb, _interdum Pollice gestare_; by which we may naturally conjecture, that Gold Rings were formed into the Fashion of Garters, and bestowed by some new installed Knights upon their Relations and Friends to wear in Memorial of so great an Honour conferred upon them.

AMONG the Officers belonging to the Order the Prelate is permitted to bear his proper Arms (impaled with those of his See) within the Garter, and the rest only to wear the Badges of their Offices, surrounded with the same to express their peculiar Relation.

BESIDES the Manner of bearing Arms, within the Garter of this Order, the Garter either in whole or part, hath been by Way of Armory, but without the Motto; as in the Seal belonging to the Office of Garter King of Arms, where the Garter (enclosing a Crown) is placed on a Chief, between a _Lyon_ of _England_ and a _Flower de Lys_ of _France_. And to instance in Family, we find Argent Three _Demy-Garters Azure_, buckled and garnished, _Or_, granted by King _Hen._ VII. to his Servant _Peter Nerborne_, and sable a Garter, _Or_, between Three Buckles of the Second, to be born by _Buckland_ or _Bowland in Com. Northampton_.

§. 2. THE second Ensign of the Order is the _Mantle_, which is the Chief of those Vestments which the Sovereign and Knights-Companions make use of upon all solemn Occasions relating to the Order. That this Pattern was derived to us from the ancient _Greeks_ and _Romans_, is not at all to be disputed, since it so little varies in Fashion from their _Pallium_ or _Toga_; for the _Grecian_ Pallium was a sort of long Cloak, which only wanted a Collar or Cape, and the _Roman Toga_ as proper to them, as the _Pallium_ to the _Grecians_, and the Custom as Antique as _Romulus_ himself; for he is recited by _Plutarch_ to have worn it. The Pallium is more fully described to be a kind of upper Robe that covered the whole Body, made fast on the right Shoulder with a Fibula or Clasp. It was usually worn over the Tunica or short Coat, whence the Proverb _Tunica Pallio propior_, and is more particularly observed to have been a Garment fashioned without Sleeves, that reached down to the Ancles.

IN describing this upper Robe, called the _Mantle_, (the Sovereigns being distinguished from the Knights-Companions, only by a long Train) we shall first set down its various Appellations it is mentioned by in the Records of the Order; Secondly, the Materials whereof it consists; Thirdly, the Colour; Fourthly, the Quantity; and last of all the Ornamental Trimmings, that nothing be omitted to satisfy any curious Enquirer.

NAME.

IN the Founder’s Statutes it is called _Mantellum_, and in _Hen._ V. _Manteau_, both which we render _Mantle_. But the Exemplar of the Founder’s Statutes entred in the black Book, and the Statutes of King _Henry_ VIII. call it _Trabea_, which _Rosinus_ reckons among the different Kinds of _Mantles_ or _Gowns_. And in 20 _Art._ of King _Hen._ VIIIth’s Statutes, it is applied both to the _Mantle_ and _Surcoat_; sometime it is stiled _Chlamyda_; sometime _Stola_; but in other Places more pertinently, _Pallium_ and _Toga_.

MATERIALS.

THAT Mantle prepared for the Founder against the first Feast of this Order, appears to be fine Woollen Cloth, and it is not improbable this Material was chosen, rather than any other richer, to the Intent the Founder might give the Preference to our native Commodity, altho’ there’s permitted in the Statutes of Institution a permission for the Proxies of Foreign Princes to bring over with them Mantles of Silk and Velvet when they came to receive possession of their Principal Stalls, either because other Countries were better stored with such Commodities than our _English_ Cloth, or that it might be more agreeable to represent the State and Grandeur of Foreign Princes, as accounting Silk or Velvet the nobler Representation.

WHAT Duration the wearing Cloth had, is not directly set down, but the first time we discover their Mantles to be of Velvet, is about the beginning of the Reign of King _Hen._ VI. which Sort of Silk hath thence remained until this Day. About this Period, ’tis observed, that the Mantles of Foreign Princes were made here of Velvet, for so was that transmitted to the King of _Portugal_, elected _Anno_ 1346. Concerning the Mantles of the Knights-Companions, there is no doubt but they were of the same Materials with those made for the Sovereign, _viz._ at first of fine Woollen Cloth, and when the Sovereign exchanged it for Velvet, they followed his Example; but we cannot meet with equal Satisfaction in this Point, because the Knights-Companions provided this Robe at their own Expence; and their private Accounts herein passing thro’ so many Contingences, were of no great Durability. But their Surcoats were of the Sovereigns Donation, and consequently the Particulars of them remain on Record in the Rolls and Accounts of the great Wardrobe.

THE Colour of these Mantles is appointed by the Statutes to be Blue, and of this Colour was the Founders; by which, as by the Ground-work of the Royal Garter, it is not improbable he alluded to the Colour of the Field in the _French_ Arms, which a few Years before he began to Quarter with those of _England_. But the Colour of the Surcoat was changed every Year, as will appear by and by. Of the same Colour were the Velvet Mantles, made _temp. Hen._ VI. who tho’ he altered the Stuff, did not vary the Dye. It is apparent, that the blue Colour was retained to King _Edw._ IVth’s Reign, for when this Sovereign transmitted the Habit and Ensigns of the Order to _Julian de Medicis_, the Mantle was of blue Velvet.

BUT in King _Hen._ VIIIth’s Statutes there’s no mention at all of the Colour of this upper Robe, save only of the _Mantle_, which the Proxy of a Foreign Prince was enjoined to bring with him when he came to assume the Stall of his Principal; which, tho’ it does not come directly up to the Point, yet it is to be observed to be of blue Velvet. And it’s highly probable that the blue Colour remained still to be used; for within a few Months after the compiling the said Statutes, it’s plain, the Mantle sent to _James_ King of _Scotland_, was of blue Velvet, and in the ancient Form of Admonition and Signification appointed to be spoke at the Investiture of Foreign Princes, and then in Plea it is called _the Mantle of celestial Colour_. Likewise the Mantle sent to _Emanuel_ Duke of _Savoy_, 1 and 2 _Ph._ and _Mar._ was of the same Composure.

IN Queen _Elizabeth_’s Reign, upon what Ground History is silent, the Colour of Foreign Prince’s Mantles was changed from Blue to Purple, for of that Colour were the Mantles sent to the _French_ Kings, _Charles_ IX. _Anno._ 6 _Eliz._ and _Hen._ III. _Ann._ 27 _Eliz._ So also to the Emperor _Maximilian_ 9 _Elizabeth_, to _Fredrick_ II. King of _Denmark_, _An._ 24 _Eliz._ to _Joh. Casimire_ Count Palatine of the _Rhine_, _Anno_ 21 _Eliz._ to _Christiern_ IV. King of _Denmark_, _An. J. R._ IV. But that sent to _Frederick_ Duke of _Wirtemberg_ in the same Year, was a mix’d Colour of Purple and Violet.

THUS the Purple Colour came in Request, and continued till about the 12 of King _Charles_ I. when he determining to restore the Colour of the Mantle to the primitive Institution, gave Directions to Mr. _Peter Richaut_, Merchant, to provide himself with a Quantity of rich blue Velvets from _Genoa_; and upon their arrival into _England_, signify’d his Pleasure by Sir _Thomas Rowe_ the Chancellor, That all Knights-Companions should purchase as much of the said Velvet as would furnish them with new Robes against St. _George_’s-Day next ensuing; compliance to whose Will, all the Knights paid Obedience, at the Rate of Thirty seven Shillings a Yard, being the Price the Sovereign paid to Mr. _Richaut_ for the Velvet of his own Robes. And the first Essay of these Mantles was to honour the Installation of the Prince, afterwards King _Charles_ II.

AND because there were many Knights-elect to be installed after the Restoration, it was ordained at the Chapter held at _Whitehall_ the _14th_ of _Jan. Anno_ 12. _Car._ 2. (called to consider of the Preparations of the grand Feast then at hand), That Directions should be given to the Master of the Wardrobe to negotiate Abroad for excellent Velvets of Skie Colour, and Crimson, and other Materials agreeable for the Mantles and Surcoats, both of the old Knights-Companions, and those that were then to be installed; which was accordingly effected, and they were transmitted in time to accommodate them at the said Feast.

THO’ the just Number of Ells of Cloth for the Sovereigns Mantle at the first Institution are not set down, yet in the Total for his Mantle, Hood, and Surcoat, there was allowed ten Ells of long Cloth. The Mantle of King _Henry_ VI. took up one Piece, five Ells and three Quarters of blue Velvet; and those sent to _Frederick_ II. and _Christian_ IV. Kings of _Denmark_; and to the _French_ King, _Henry_ III. contained each twenty Yards of Velvet.

THIS we find to be the Allowance for Foreign Princes, and are the more full and extensive, by reason of their long Train, which being more scanty in the Mantles of Knights-Subjects, eighteen Yards was sufficient to make one of them. The full Length of King _Charles_ II. from the Collar behind to the end of the Train, was three Yards the Length of the foreside, one Yard and three Quarters from the Foot along the bottom to the fixing on of the Train, was two Yards, and from thence the Length or Compass of the Train, two Yards.

THE left Shoulder of each of these Mantles have from the Institution been adorned with a large fair Garter, containing this Motto, _Honi soit qui mal y pense_. These were distinguished from the lesser Garters, anciently embroider’d upon the Surcoats and Hoods of the Sovereigns and Knights-Companions, by the Name of _Garters Gross_.

WITHIN this Garter was the Arms of St. _George_, _viz._ Argent a _Cross Gules_, and was heretofore wrought in Sattin, with Gold, Silver and Silk; but in descending Times greater Expence and Magnificence became the Practice of the Order, for it was embordered upon Velvet with Damask, Gold, and sundry Sorts of Purls, Plates, _Venice_ Twists and Silks, and the Letters of the Motto and Borders of the Garter composed of fair Oriental Pearl. The Garter fix’d upon the Mantle of King _Charles_ II. was encircled with large Oriental Pearl, so were the Letters of the Motto and the Cross within the Garter, the Diameter of which was seven Inches, but the Depth from the upper Part to the end of the Pendant, ten Inches.

_Temp. Hen._ VI. it seems to have been the Mode to embellish the Mantle with three or four Velts drawn down the sides, and round the bottom, as it appears by the Monument of _John Talbot_ Earl of _Shrewsbury_ in the South-wall of the Chancel of _Whitechurch in Com. Salop_.

ABOUT that Time the Lining of this Robe was white Damask, and afterwards white Sattin; but of later Date it was lined with white Taffaty, which continues yet in vogue.

FOR exemplary Ornament, the Mantle had fixed to its Collar a pair of long Strings, anciently woven of blue Silk only (called _Cordons_, Robe-strings or Laces); but of later Days, twisted round and made of _Venice_ Gold and Silk of the Colour of the Robe, at each end of which hung a great Knob or Button, wrought over and raised with a rich Caul of Gold, and Tassels thereunto of like Silk and Gold.

AND at the Collar was usually fixed an Hook and Eye of Gold for its firmer affixing of it to the Shoulders.

§. 3. THE Third Ensign of the Order is the _Surcoat_ or _Kirtle_, which altho’ we find no Place for it in the Founder’s Statutes, is nevertheless as ancient as the Mantle or upper Robe, that is only taken Notice of there, for such a Vesture King _Edward_ III. then made, together with his Mantle and a Hood to celebrate the first Feast of the Order in.

ITS Original it owes to the _Greeks_ and _Romans_; amongst whom this Garment had its determinated _Tunica_, and was worn next under the _Toga_, but amongst them was both narrower and shorter; it was girt close to the Body with a Girdle, and so fitted, that the Hem of it reached a little below the Knee, or to the middle of the Ham. It was the proper Mode of the _Roman_ Citizens, and by its trimming were the three Degrees among them known; for the Senators Tunicks were embroidered or purfled over with broad purple Studs, the Knights with narrow ones, and the Plebeians plain.

IN setting forth the Surcoat, which was heretofore annually bestowed by the Sovereign or the Knights-Companions, and therefore called his _Livery_, we shall, as in the Description of the Mantle, treat somewhat of the Name, Materials, Colour, Quantity and Garnishing of it.

AS to the Name in the old Rolls of the great Wardrobe, it is stiled _Roba_, but more properly as the Founder’s first Surcoat is called _Tunica_, which Name it bears in the red Book of the Order. In _English_ it is rendred _Gown_, _Kirtle_, _Surcoat_, _Undercoat_ and _Robe_. The Appellation of _Gown_ is attributed to _Surcoats_ of the Sovereigns and Foreign Princes, _Temp. Hen._ VI. _Edw._ IV. and _Hen._ VII. But since, and very lately, it hath been bestowed also on the Surcoats of Knights-Companions; and that of _Kirtle_ sometimes given to those sent to Foreign Princes, as appears by the Books of Warrants in the great Wardrobe, but the rest are Terms of a later Date: As the first Mantles, so the first Surcoats were composed of Woollen Cloth, and tho’ the Cloth of the Mantles was in some space after changed for Velvet, yet the Surcoats continued afterwards to be of Cloth, at least till after the Office of Chancellor of the Garter was erected by King _Edward_ IV. as is manifest by the Precedent of this Livery in the Sovereigns great Wardrobe; but in process of Time they became Velvet, which sort of Silk is yet retained.

THE Colour of this Vesture was anciently changed every Year, commonly into Blue, Scarlet, Sanguine in Grain, or White. But the Colour of the Mantles remained the same as at the Institution, until Queen _Elizabeth_’s Reign, and then it commenced Blue: And ’tis remarkable, that the Surcoats of the Knights-Companions, were always of the same Colour with the Sovereigns.

THE Founder’s first Surcoat was of the same Cloth and Colour with the Mantle, _viz._ Blue, but in the 34th Year of his Reign he altered it to Black, and of the same Colour were those he conferred that Year upon these following Knights-Companions, _viz._ the Black Prince, the Earls of _Ulster_, _Richmond_ and _Salisbury_, _Edmund_ of _Langly_, Sir _Richard la Vach_, Sir _Hugh Wrotesly_, Sir _Reginald Cobham_, Sir _Bartholomew Burghest_, the Lord _Mohun_, Sir _Walter Manney_, Sir _Nele Loring_, Sir _Walter Paveley_, Sir _William Fitz Warin_, Sir _Miles Stapleton_, the Earls of _Stafford_, _Warwick_ and _Suffolk_, and Sir _Thomas Ughtred_: The Motive that induced him to pitch upon this sable Colour, was conceived to be a kind of Humiliation, because the Pestilence began again to spread its Malevolence, which had furiously raged Eleven Years before. The Surcoats which the Sovereign gave the Dukes of _Lancaster_ and _Clarence_, and Fourteen other Knights, _Anno_ 37. _Edward_ III. were of Cloth, Sanguine in Grain. Those Twenty four provided for the Feast of St. _George_, _Anno_ 7 _Richard_ II. were Violet in Grain, whereof one was for the Sovereign, the other Twenty three for the Knights-Companions, following _John_ King of _Castile_, and _Leonard_ Duke of _Lancaster_, the Earls of _Cambridge_, _Buckingham_, _Derby_, _Kent_, _Warwick_, _Stafford_, _Salisbury_, _Northumberland_ and _Nottingham_, the Lords _Nevil_, _Basset_, and _John Holland_, Sir _Guy Bryan_, Sir _William Beauchamp_, Sir _Thomas Percy_, Sir _Nele Loring_, Sir _John Sulby_, Sir _Lodowick Clifford_, Sir _Simon Burley_, Sir _Richard Burley_, Sir _Bryan Stapleton_ and Sir _Soldan de la Trane_.

_Anno_ 11 _Richard_ II. there were ordered against St. _George_’s Feast Twenty three Surcoats of white Cloth for the Sovereign, and Twenty two Knights-Companions; and the 12 and 19 Year of the same King, the Sovereign bestowed on the same Persons Surcoats of long blue Cloth, after the Original Model. The Twenty two Surcoats made up for the Feast of St. _George_, _Anno_ 1 _Henry_ V. were of white Cloth; _Anno_ —— _Henry_ VI. the Sovereigns Gown or Surcoat was of Scarlet, as was that sent to the King of _Portugal_ in the 13th Year of the same King. _Anno_ —— _Henry_ VI. the Sovereign had white Cloth; and so were the Surcoats given to Twenty Knights-Companions more in the —— Year of his Reign. Afterwards the beforementioned Four Colours began to be disused, for the Surcoat presented to _Julian de Medicis_, _temp. Edward_ IV. was purple Velvet, and towards the latter end of the Reign of King _Henry_ VIII. and since, it is upon Record, the Surcoats of the Sovereign and all the Knights-Companions were Crimson Velvet, nor did the Colour suffer a Mutation in the Surcoat, tho’ King _Charles_ I. restored the Mantle to its first primitive Colour, _Anno_ 12 _Regni sui_.

THERE has been some disproportion in the Quantity of the Cloth allowed in the Provision against one and the same Feast, for _Anno_ 34 _Edward_ III. the Earls of _Stafford_, _Warwick_, and _Suffolk_, as also Sir _Thomas Ughtred_ had then for each of their Surcoats six Ells of Cloth (perhaps the tallness of their Stature required it) when the other Fifteen Knights were allowed but five Ells, being the same Quantity the Sovereign’s Surcoat had contained in it at the same time.

THE Dukes of _Holland_ and _Clarence_, _Anno_ 1 _Henry_ V. with the Earls of _Arundel_, were allowed Eight Ells a-piece, the Dukes of _Bedford_, _Gloucester_ and _York_, the Earls of _Westmorland_ and _Warwick_, the Lords _Grey_, _Fitz Hugh_ and _Roos_, six Ells apiece; the Earls of _Dorset_, with six Barons and five Knights Batchelors, but five Ells apiece. Afterwards, when the Number of Ells of Cloth, Garters and Furrs came to be ascertained for each Degree, all the Knights-Companions (even the Prince of _Wales_) were not to exceed five Ells: But since Velvet came in Plea, the Allowance for Surcoat and Hood hath been eighteen Yards, when the Surcoat reached down to the Feet; but now it being the Fashion to wear it shorter, the Allowance is stinted to Ten. The Length of King _Charles_ II’s Surcoat was one Yard and an half, and of the Sleeve one Yard wanting a Nail.

THE Ornamental Trimmings of these Garments are next worthy of Note, especially at the Time of Instituting this Order, for they were then, and a long time after, powdered all over with little Garters, embroidered with Silk and Gold-Plate, in each of which was neatly wrought the Motto, _Honi soit, &c._ Besides, the Buckles and Pendants to those small Garters, were Silver gilt; of these Garters there were no less than 160 upon the first Surcoat and Hood made for the Founder.

IN King _Richard_ II’s Reign, the little Garters that adorned the Surcoats of the Sovereign, and the other Knights were wrought in Embroidery upon blue Taffaty with Cyprus, and Soldat Gold and Silk of divers Colours, and the Letters Gold. And as the Sovereign was not limited in the Proportion of Cloth or Velvet for his Surcoat, no more was he confined to the Number of Garters, wherewith to adorn it; nor do I find that any of the Knights-Companions were, until the Precedent of the Livery of the Garter was settled, for _Anno_ 1 _Henry_ V. the Dukes of _Holland_ and _Clarence_, the Earl of _Arundel_, the Dukes of _Bedford_ and _Gloucester_ had each of their Surcoats adorned with 120 Garters, but the Duke of _York_, and the rest wore but 100. The Settlement in the Precedent of the Livery was, in relation to Degrees of Honour, a greater or less Number of Garters: Thus,

A Duke 120 }
A Marquis 110 }
An Earl 100 }
A Viscount 90 } Garters.
A Baron 80 }
A Baronet 70 }
A Knight-Batchelor 60 }

ABOUT the Reign of King _Henry_ VI. the Sovereigns Number of Garters did not much exceed those which the Founder allow’d to himself at the Institution; for the Surcoat and Hood of the said King consisted of 173; and the King of _Portugal_, _Anno_ 13 _Henry_ VI. 120 Garters. But this Drapery of their Robes became at length quite obsolete, perhaps when Cloth was altered to Velvet, and the plain Surcoat hath to this Day continued in Use.

WHILE these Surcoats remained of Cloth, they were lined with Bellies of pure Minever Fur, only the Sovereigns was purfled with Ermin; and of these, it seems, a like Proportion was at first stated to all the Knights-Companions, _viz._ 200 Bellies. Yet in the Reign of King _Richard_ II. some Difference began in the Allowance to the Knights-Companions, for a Baron, and all Degrees upward had 200 Bellies; but under a Baron 120 only. However, _Anno_ 1. _Henry_ V. the Barons were tantamount to the Knights-Batchelors, for all Degrees above a Baron were allow’d, a Fur of 200 Bellies. But the Barons and Knights-Batchelors Furs were only 120 Bellies.

AFTERWARDS, by the Precedent of the Garter, there was another Proportion limited, the Prince, a Duke, a Marquis, an Earl, had each of them Five Timber of pure Minever allowed to a Surcoat; but the Viscount, Baron, Baronet and Batchelor-Knights but Three Timber apiece. In time these Furs were disused, and the Surcoats came to be lined with white Sarcenet, to which, _temp. Eliz._ white Taffaty succeeded, and that still continues.

WHAT became of the old Surcoats, since the Knights-Companions had new ones every Year, the Black Book of the Order informs us, That on the Eve of the Feast of St. _George_, the Knights wore to Vespers, the Sovereigns Livery or Surcoats, used by them the preceding Year, which after that Night they threw off, (for the new Surcoats were worn on the Feast-Day); but the Ensigns and Ornaments of this Kind were disposed of to the Use of the Colledge.

THE Hood and Cap comes in the next Place to be spoken of, which Hood in King _Henry_ VIII’s Statutes, and the Black Book of the Order is called _Humerale_; but in the Rolls of the Great Wardrobe, _Capucium_. In the _French_ it is _Chaperon_, a Word used in the Statute, _Anno_ 1. _Richard_ II. _C._ 7. and also retained in the Old _English_ Copy of _Henry_ VIII’s Statutes made of his Reign, and annexed to this Treatise. They were anciently wore for Defence of the Head against the Inclemencies of Weather, but of later Times Caps and Hats have supplied their place. How they sat upon the Head, may be observed in the Portraitures of the first Founders; as also with some Variety of Fashion in succeeding Ages: Yet is not the Hood quite thrown by, since ’tis still kept reclining upon the Back, almost like a Pilgrim’s Hat.

THIS Hood was ordained, and is yet retained as part of the Habit of this most Noble Order. And tho’ neither it nor the Surcoat is mentioned in the Statutes of Institution, or in either its Exemplars, nor doth King _Henry_ V. lay any Stress upon it, yet it is of equal Antiquity with the rest, as appears from the Rolls of the great Wardrobe, and _Henry_ VIII’s Statutes have made remarkable Observation of it, for the Mantle, Surcoat, Hood, and Collar are called the Habit of the Order: And in the Black Book, _Anno_ 22. _Henry_ VII. at the Investiture of _Philip_ King of _Castile_, the Mantle, Kirtle, Hood and Collar are expresly called _Whole Habit_.

IT was heretofore, and now is generally made of the same Materials as the Surcoat, and was anciently trimmed and set off with a small Proportion of Garters lined with Cloth of a different Colour, and such as would best strike the Sight; but now with Taffaty, as is the Lining of the Surcoat.