Chapter VIII: Part 8

AS to the Cap, which was instituted to succeed the Hood; it hath been, and yet is, fashioned of black Velvet lin’d with Taffaty; but the Figure hath several Times varied; for _Temp. Henry_ VIII. it was flat, in Queen _Elizabeth_’s Reign it was a little raised in the Head; but in King _James_’s Time they were much more high-crown’d. This Cap hath been usually adorn’d with Plumes of White Feathers, and Spriggs, and bound about with a Band set thick with Diamonds; so was the Cap for the Installation of King _Charles_ II. and sometimes the Brims have been tack’d up with a large and costly Jewel.

THIS Custom of wearing Caps and Feathers at the Grand Solemnities of the Order, had, for some Time, about the Beginning of King _James_ I. Reign, been omitted, and thereupon, in a Chapter held the 13th of _April_, _Anno_ 10. _Jac._ I. this commendable Custom was re-establish’d.

TO these may be added the Cross of the Order encompass’d with a Garter, which by the Sovereign was ordain’d the 27th of _April_, 2 _Car._ I. to be worn upon the Left Side of the Cloaks, Coats, and riding Cassocks of the Sovereigns and Knights-Companions, of the Prelate and Chancellor at all Times, when they were not adorn’d with their Robes, and in all Places and Assemblies (but not embellish’d with Pearls and Stones) that the wearing thereof might be a sufficient Indication to the World, of that Height of Honour they arriv’d to from the said most Noble Order, instituted for Persons of the greatest Merit and Worth.

AND it was not long after e’er the Glory or Star, as it was usually call’d, having certain Beams of Silver, that shot out in Form of a Cross, was introduc’d and annex’d to it, in Imitation (as thought) of the _French_, who after the same manner wore the chief Ensign of the Order of the _Holy Ghost_, being the Representation of a Dove irradiated with such like Beams.

AND whereas some Painters affirm the Symbol of the Holy Ghost to be thus adorn’d congruous enough, yet censure it improper for a Garter, let them consider that King _Edw._ IV. erected his White Rose with the like Glory, whereof both the Stone Work and Wood Work of St. _George_’s Chapel in _Windsor_, manifestly illustrate, whose Antiquity makes a Precedent for it long before the Institution of the Order of the _Holy Ghost_; but this King assum’d this Device upon appearance of three Suns, which suddenly united together into one immediately, before his successful Victory at _Mortimer_’s-_Cross_, a happy _Æra_ he thought himself oblig’d to perpetuate. And they mistake who suppose it to be the Garter that is thus irradiated, whereas it is something else more worthy of the Glory, for from it, not the Garter, do the Rays diffuse, _viz._ the inclos’d Cross of the Order, celebrated as glorious, since it darted its bright Beams from Heaven, when it appear’d to _Constantine the Great_; as the same is represented on a Silver Medal: On the one Side whereof was a _Bust in profile_, or side Face of King _Charles_ I. and on the Reverse, this Badge of the Order, within a Garter, inscrib’d, _Honi_, &c. a Cross irradiated, dispersing its Beams in a Rhombular Form of Eight Angles, beyond the Orbit or bounding Lines of the said Garter, having for Circumscription, _Prisci decus Ordinis Auctum_, 1629.

§ 5. HAVING finish’d our Discourse concerning the Robes of the Order, we shall speak of the Robes and Hoods assign’d to the Queen, Knights-Companions Wives, and other great Ladies, by the Donation of the Sovereigns, set off and embellished with Minute Garters, and lin’d with Rich Furs, which Robes they were adorn’d with during the Solemnity of the Feast of St. _George_, a Custom almost as ancient as its Institution. The first Mention we find recorded of the Feminine Habit occurs, _Anno_ 7. _R._ II. when the Queen, the Sovereign’s Mother, the Dutchess of _Lancaster_, the Countesses of _Cambridge_, _Buckingham_, _Pembroke_, _Oxford_, and _Salisbury_, the Ladies _Philippa_ and _Catherine_, Daughters to the Duke of _Lancaster_, and the Lady _Mohun_ had such kind of Robes and Hoods provided for them. They were made of Cloth, Violet in Grain, like as the Sovereign and Knights-Companions that Year, the Robes lin’d with Fur, but the Hoods with Scarlet, and both embroidered over with little Garters, and the Proportion of Cloth, Furs, and Garters, were stated according to their several Ranks and Degrees; for the Queen had Eight Ells, and Half an Ell of Scarlet for the Lining of her Hood. The Sovereign’s Mother had allow’d her one whole Piece, and a double Proportion of Scarlet; but from the large Quantity it is conceiv’d she had Two Robes and Hoods made at this time: Besides, the particular Number are but Eleven Persons, and cannot else reach the Total of the Robes that were made up and expressly set down to be Twelve. The Dutchess of _Lancaster_ had the Allowance of Half a Piece, and Half an Ell of Scarlet; the Countess of _Cambridge_ Seven Ells of Cloth and Half an Ell of Scarlet, and the rest of the Ladies the same Proportion of Cloth with the Knights-Companions, _i. e._ each Five Ells a-piece, and Half an Ell of Scarlet. According to their Cloth was also their Proportion of Minever; the Queen’s Allowance was Two Furs, each containing Three Hundred Bellies of pure Minever; the Sovereign’s Mother had twice that Proportion, the Dutchess of _Lancaster_, and Countess of _Cambridge_ had the same Allowance as the Queen; but all the rest of the Ladies had only one Fur of Two Hundred Bellies. Besides the embroidered Garters to deck out the Twenty-four Surcoats of the Sovereign and Knights-Companions, and the Twelve Robes for the Queen, and other Ladies, amounted to the Number of 2900.

AGAINST the Feast of St. _George_, _Anno._ 11. _R._ II. there were prepared Fifteen Robes and Hoods for the Queen and other Ladies, of the same Livery and suit with the Sovereign and Knights-Companions, _viz._ White long Cloth, and Blue Cloth for the Lining of their Hoods, bearing the same Proportion in all Things as the former, _Anno_ 13. _Rich._ II. the Ladies Robes and Hoods were Sanguine Cloth, and the Lining of their Hoods Cloth in Grain. And in the 19th _Rich._ II. they were Blue Cloth, and long Cloth in Grain for Lining their Hoods. In both these Years we find the Dutchess of _Aquitaine_ had double the Proportion of Cloth allow’d her (as had also the Dutchess of _York_) _viz._ Fourteen Ells, (the Queen having then but the former Allowance of Eight Ells) and yet her Proportion of Lining, both for the Robe and Hood, was no more than allow’d the Queen.

BUT _Anno_ 1 _Henry_ V. the same Quantities of Cloth, Minevers, and Garters, were the same to Ladies of all Degrees, and that was to each Five Ells of White Woollen Cloth, only the Queen-Mother had Eight Ells of White Cloth and Eight Ells of Black Cloth, a Fee containing Two Hundred Bellies of Minever, and an Hundred embroidered Garters, and 12 _Henry_ VI. the Master of the great Wardrobe was commanded to make ready the like Livery, both for Colour of Cloth, number of Ells, Bellies of Minever, and Garters, for the Countess of _Suffolk_, against the approaching Feast of St. _George_.

A plainer Narrative is made of these Liveries, _Anno_ 16 _Edw._ IV. when at the Feast of St. _George_ at _Windesor_, the Queen, the Lady _Elizabeth_, the King’s Daughter, and Dutchess of _Suffolk_, the King’s Sister, had for their Livery Murrey Gowns embroidered with Garters.

BESIDES these Robes worn by the Ladies at the Festivals of the Order, there seems to be some Imitation of wearing a Garter also on their Left Arms, as the Knights did on their Left Leg, as it is observ’d on the Countess of _Tankervile_’s Monument, where she is so pourtray’d.

AFTER a long Disuse of these Robes, _Anno_ 14 _Car._ I. there was an endeavour to restore it; for the Deputy Chancellor sollicited the Sovereign in Chapter, That the Ladies of the Knights-Companions might be granted the Privilege to wear a Garter of the Order about their Arms, and an upper Robe at Festival Times, according to ancient Usage, upon which Motion the Sovereign gave Order that the Queen’s Pleasure should be known herein, and the Affair left to the Ladies particular Request, and the Year ensuing, upon the Deputy Chancellor’s Report at another Chapter at _Windesor_, it was then left to a Chapter to be called by the Knights-Companions, to preponderate of every Circumstance, how it were fittest to be effected for the Honour and Lustre of the Order; which was appointed to be held at _London_ about _All-hollantide_ next; But the unhappy War breaking out, this Matter entirely broke off.

§ 6. THERE remains now the Collar and _George_, brought in by King _Henry_ VIII. And first, of Collars in general, which is an Ornament not of late, but ancient Invention, and the wonderful Consent of most Nations plead for it: Sacred Writ sets down the Collar of Gold for one of the Ornaments _Pharaoh_ conferr’d upon _Joseph_. The Images of _Isis_ and _Osiris_ were represented with such like Collars, in a manner, extending to their Shoulders, as _Kircher_ informs us. Their Workmanship seems wonderfully curious, being intersected with various Lines, and divided with Tablets and precious Stones. The Collar was of an illustrious Original among the _Romans_, and gave Denomination to the Family of _Torquati_, descended from _L. Manlius_, whom the Soldiers surnam’d _Torquatus_, because he fought with a Champion of the _Gauls_, _Anno V. C._ 392. and, having foil’d him in fight, cut off his Head, and then pluck’d off his Collar, bloody as it was, and put it about his own Neck. In further Memory of which Action were found several _Roman_ Coins referring to _L. Torquatus_, Consul with _L. Cotta_, _Anno V. C._ 688. And it’s remarkable that when one of another Tribe was adopted into this Family, he did also assume this Badge of Honour, as in the Coin of _D. Junius Silanus_, tho’ the Fashion of the Work somewhat differ’d from the former.

IN pristine Times none but Kings and Princes wore Collars, and therefore their Use seems of Dignity and Power, as is evident from _Daniel_, where the _Assyrian_ Kings used this Ornament. Afterwards Men famous for Wisdom and Council, had them as a distinguishing Badge, as in the Example of _Joseph_, and from the Proclamation of _Belshazzar_ King of _Babylon_, who proposed it as a Præmium to him that could interpret the Hand-Writing upon the Wall. And Men famous for Military Atchievements had it conferr’d upon them, in Recompence of their Merits; thus Collars were of the Number of the _Dona & Præmia Militaria_ among the _Romans_, and the Honour of receiving them thought worthy to be consign’d to Posterity in Marble Inscriptions. From them the later Emperors receiv’d it, and we read of investing a Knight of the _Holy Sepulchre_ with a Collar at his Creation; where, as soon as the Ceremony of his Ordination is over, the Padre Guardian Kisses the new Made Knight, and puts about his Neck (according to the mode of the Ancients) a Golden Collar, with a Cross hanging at it.

MOST aptly therefore have the Sovereigns of Military Orders annex’d this Ornament of the Collar to their Habit, and conferr’d it on the Fellows and Companions, many of whom have meritoriously deserv’d it for their great Wisdom and valorous Exploits, and for this reason it was instituted in additional Glory to the Ensigns of the Garter, compos’d in a peculiar manner, in Relation to the Name and Title; to the wearing of which the Sovereign oblig’d both himself and Knights-Companions, and his and their Successors.

THIS Collar was ordain’d to be of Gold Thirty Ounces Troy weight, but not to exceed it; howbeit that Collar sent to _Gustavus Adolphus_, King of _Sweden_, weigh’d Thirty-four Ounces and a Quarter, and that of King _Charles_ I. 35 Ounces and an Half; which, after his Sufferings, fell into the Hands of _Thomas Harrison_, one of _Oliver_’s Major-Generals, and was by him delivered to the Trustees for Sale of the King’s Goods: They, 1649. sent it to the _Mint_, with divers of the _Regalia_, to set the Stamp on work for the first Gold that the upstart Common-wealth coin’d.

IT was appointed by King _Henry_ VIII’s Statutes, that this Collar should be compos’d of Pieces of Gold in Fashion of Garters, the Ground enamelled Blue, and the Letters of the Motto Gold; in the midst of each Garter, Two Roses plac’d, the innermost enamelled Red, and the outermost White, contrarily in the next Garter, the innermost Rose enamelled White, and the outermost Red, and so alternately; but of later Times these Roses are wholly Red.

THE Number of these Garters are so many as be the ordain’d Number of the Sovereign and Knights-Companions; at the Institution they were Twenty-six, being fasten’d together with as many Knots of Gold, and this Mode hitherto has continu’d invariable; nor ought the Collar to be adorn’d or enrich’d with precious Stones, (as the _George_ may be) such being prohibited by the Law of the Order.

AT the Middle of the Collar before pendant, at the Table of one of the Garters in the Collar is to be fix’d the Image of St. _George_ arm’d sitting on Horseback, who having thrown the Dragon on his Back encounters him with a Tilting-Spear. This Jewel is not encompass’d with a Garter or Row of Diamonds, as in the lesser _George_; but in round Relief. It is allow’d to be beautified and sett off with Diamonds and other Enrichments, at the Pleasure of the Knight-Companion who possessed it, and upon that Score it hath been frequently adorn’d with Variety of costly Work, whereon the Diamonds, and other precious Stones, being set to that Advantage as might, upon its Motion and Agitation, dart forth a resplendent Lustre.

BEFORE the Establishment of this Article by King _Henry_ VIII. it appears that the Knights-Companions were invested with Collars at their Installations, for the Black Book makes mention of a Collar among the Ensigns of the Garter, wherewith _Philip_ King of _Castile_ was invested, _Anno_ 22 _Henry_ VII. but whether a Collar of SS’s, or of another Model, is not specifi’d: Nevertheless this Scruple is in part clear’d up by an old Memorial of the Ceremonies, at the Creating _Henry_ Lord _Stafford_ Earl of _Wiltshire_, 1 _Henry_ VIII. where it is said in the Annals, that after he was invested with the Robes of his State and Dignity, the Collar of the Garter was put about his Neck at constituting him a Knight of the Order. And to make it more conspicuous in a Vellum Book of the Statutes sent to _Maximilian_ the Emperor, sign’d 1508. by the Register _T. Rowthale_, and in another of _Edward Stanley_ Lord _Monteagle_, elected _ann._ 6. _Hen._ VIII. the Forty First Article, enjoins a Collar to be worn by each Knight-Companion expresly called the Collar of the Order, which tho’ it be not in all Respects consentient to that prescribed by King _Henry_ VIII’s Statutes, yet there is not much Variation, and ’tis reported to be a _Gold Collar coupled together by several Pieces of Links, in Fashion of Garters, with a Vermilion Rose, and the Image of St._ George _hung thereat_. The Reason of the Knights-Companions wearing it at the Times appointed, the License for putting it to mending, the Command not to enrich the Collar, but the _George_ only; and under a Penalty not to sell, pawn or alienate it upon any Necessity whatsoever, are wholly the same as was afterwards enjoyn’d by King _Henry_ VIII. So that he did but only annex to his Body of Statutes a Decree, which for the greatest part had been put in practise before. In the 11th _Hen._ VIII. upon Interpretation of the Eleventh Article of the Statutes, the Collar is there enumerated as part of the entire Robes that a Knight-Companion is oblig’d to wear, for a more convincing Proof, That the Collar of Garters was used before King _Henry_ VIII’s Reign, the Monument of Sir _Giles Daubeny_ plainly Delineates (who departed 22 _Henry_ VII.) in _Westminster-Abbey_, where his Portraicture in the Robes of the Order is adorned with such a Collar as King _Henry_ VIII’s Statutes do afterwards describe.

AS the Garter sent to _Gustavus Adolphus_ King of _Sweden_, so the great _George_ (pendant at his Collar weighing Seven Ounces) was set with large and resplendent Diamonds, to the Number of Eighty-Four.

IN what Regard this Noble Ensign of Honour the Collar, hath been with the Sovereigns and Knights-Companions, not only of the Order of the _Garter_, but other Military Orders, may be collected from the Pictures of some of them, as well as from their Seals, Coins, and Medals, for in these they have been pleased to exhibit their Effigies and Escutcheons of Arms; and omitting Foreign Examples, the Collars, both of the _Garter_ and _Thistle_, were express’d in the Coronation Medal of King _Charles_ I. in _Scotland_, 1633. tho’ in that of his Coronation at _Westminster_, and afterwards in that of King _Charles_ II. 1661. the Collar of the Order of the _Garter_ are only put over their Royal Robes.

THESE Ornaments of the Collars, have been affix’d sometimes encircling the Shields of their Arms; and in a Seal of _Charles the Bold_ Duke of _Burgundy_, Sovereign of the Order of the _Golden Fleece_, plac’d to an Instrument dated, 1470. it is worthy of Remark, that Collar adorns the Neck of the Lyon of _Flanders_; but the Sovereigns of the _Garter_ usually encompass’d their Arms, not within the Collar of the Order, but the Royal Garter, that being its principal Ensign; and sometimes, having no Shield of Arms, the void Space within the Garter, exhibits their Arms.

OBSERVABLE is the Seal of _Charles_ Count _Palatine_ of the _Rhine_, wherein is a Shield quarterly of the _Palatinate_ and _Bavaria_, obscuring the Lyon Guardant its Supporter, his Four SS’s only appearing quadrangularly, and his Head a top ensign’d with an Electoral Crown; this Shield is encircled both within the Garter and Collar of the Order, and is the first Example wherein both these Ensigns are jointly together. It is very frequent to express the Collars of different Orders together: Thus I have seen the Arms of _Robert Dudley_ Earl of _Leicester_, entour’d within the Garter, and a Collar of the Order of St. _Michael_, having been Knight of these Orders, and the Funeral Atchievement of the late _James Hamilton Douglas_ Duke of _Hamilton_, had the Garter and a Collar of the Thistle about it. And in a Plate under the Effigies of the Duke of _Aspernons_, a Shield of his Arms quarter’d, is encompass’d with the chiefest Ensigns of those Three Orders, whereof he was a Brother and Companion, _viz._ with the Garter and the Collars of St. _Michael_ and the _Holy Ghost_. And the older the Order is in the Roll of Antiquity, whose chief Ensign is there represented, the nearer ought it to be plac’d to the Escutcheon of Arms, being the more Honourable Post. A Mistake was committed in the marshalling these Collars, when the Duke of _Chevereux_ affixed it over his Stall at _Windsor_, the Collars of St. _Mithael_ and the _Holy Ghost_ are plac’d nearer to his Escutcheon than that of the Garter.

§ 8. AND whereas we have spoke of another kind of Collar, call’d a Collar of SS’s, worn as Badges of lower and inferior Honour, it will not be amiss to inform our Judgment in other Affairs concerning them. _Wicelius_ informs us from a Book in the Library of _Fulda_, where (in the Life of the Two Brothers _Simplicius_ and _Faustinus_, both Senators, and suffer’d Martyrdom under _Dioclesian_) there is a Description of the Society of St. _Simplicius_, consisting of Noble Personages in their own Families, and describing the Collar wore as the Badge of it says, thus: _It was the Custom of those Persons to wear about their Necks Silver Collars, compos’d of double SS’s, which denote the Name of Saint_ Simplicius, _between these double SS’s. The Collar consisted of Twelve small Plates of Silver, in which were engraven the Twelve Articles of the Creed, together with a single Trefoil: The Image of St._ Simplicius _hung at the Collar, and from it Seven Plates, representing the Seven Gifts of the Holy Ghost. As to the manner of their Martyrdom, they were bound together by the Neck to a Stone, and thrown over the Bridge into the River_ Tyber.

AT what Time the Collar of SS’_s_ came into _England_ is not fully determin’d, but it will appear at least Three Hundred Years since, and worn as an Ornament for Women, as well as Men; for on a Monument in the Collegiate Church of _Warwick_, the Figure of _Margaret_, Wife to Sir _William Peito_ (said to be interr’d _Temp. Edw._ III.) hath a Collar of SS’_s_ drawn about, and set close to her Neck, which the Sculpture in _The Antiquities of_ Warwickshire, by mistake, represented like a Ruff. There was also a Collar of SS’_s_ about the Neck of Sir _Simon Burley_’s Statue in St. _Paul_’s _London_.

IN the ancient Creation of an Esquire in _England_, part of the Ceremony was the King’s putting about his Neck a Silver Collar of SS’_s_. And _Selden_, in his Titles of Honour contemns not the old Ballad, _The Tanner of_ Tamworth, to prove the Creation of Esquires in King _Edw._ IV’s Reign, by conferring such Collars on them. But that the Golden one was the undoubted Badge of a Knight, as may be instanc’d by many undeniable Examples, deduc’d from the Monuments of such Persons, _Temp. Hen._ VI. _Ed._ IV. _Hen._ VII. _Hen._ VIII. and since, and so legally appropriate thereto, that in the Act 24 _H._ VIII. made for Reformation of Apparel, there is a Proviso entred, That Knights, notwithstanding, might publickly wear a Gold Collar of SS’_s_, tho’ since it is grown obsolete and useless. _Favin_ tells us that our _Hen._ V. instituted an Order surnam’d Knights of the SS’_s_ on the Day of the Martyrs St. _Crispine_ and _Crispianus_; which tho’ he found nothing of it in our _English_ Historians, yet from the Chronicle of _Juvenal des Ursins_, where he treats of the Battle of _Agincourt_, he collected this following Relation.

“THE King of _England_ exhorted his Men, and commanded, That if any had trespass’d against another, they should be reconcil’d and confess’d to the Priests, otherwise no good Success wou’d accrew to them in their Attempts. He advis’d them to be civil in their March, and to do their Duty well, and agreed upon these Conditions, That those of their Company who were not of gentle Extraction he wou’d make so from the Fountain of Honour, and give them Warrants, that for the future they should enjoy the Privileges the Gentlemen of _England_ had; and to the End they might be distinguish’d from others, he granted them leave to wear a Collar powder’d with the Letter S.”

AMONG the Variety of Collars of SS’s now in vogue, there are these following: The Lord Mayor of _London_’s Collar is compos’d of Gold, having a Knot (like one of those that tye the Garters together in the great Collar of the Order) inserted between Two SS_s_, and they again situated between Two Roses, _viz._ a White Rose within a Red, and in the Middle before the Breast is a large Portcullis, whereat hangs a most rich Jewel sett with large Diamonds.

THE Collars of the Lords Chief Justices of both the Benches, and the chief Baron of the _Exchequer_, are (in Memory of the said St. _Simplicius_, a Senator, and consequently a Gownman) form’d of the Letter S, and a Knot alternately, having a Rose set in that part of it which falls out to be in the Middle of their Breasts, and another on their Backs; the Five Flowers of these Roses are constituted of Five large Pearls.

THOSE Collars, which appertain to the Kings and Heralds of Arms, as well as to Serjeants at Arms, having been bestow’d by former Kings, and renew’d to them by King _Charles_ II. to be worn upon Days of solemn Attendance, are compos’d of SS’s link’d together. In the Middle of the Breast is a Rose, at each of which hangs Three small Drops of Silver; but the SS’s in the Collars worn by the Kings of Arms are made somewhat larger than the other, and in that part lying on either Shoulder, is a Portcullis taken in between the SS’s, which are wanting in the rest.

THE general difference of the Collars appropriate to the before-named Degrees, is this; Knights have allow’d them Collars of Silver gilt, but Esquires only Silver; and therefore in the Creating of an Herald, in part of that Ceremony, he is made an Esquire, by putting on him a Collar of SS’s of Silver; and so is a Serjeant at Arms.

THE Kings of _England_ have sometimes been pictured with a Collar of SS’s about their Arms, in like manner as the Garter doth surround them, as appears from an Impression of King _Henry_ VIII’s Privy Signet; whereon his Royal Arms crown’d are encircled with a Collar of SS’s, to the lower End of which are affix’d Two Portcullisses.

§ 9. WE come now to the lesser _George_ of the Order; and we do not find that the Effigies of St. _George_ was at any time worn by the Sovereign or Knights-Companions, before the Breast or under the Arm, as now used till the 13th of _Henry_ VIII. But then that King decreed in a Chapter held at _Greenwich_, the Morrow after St. _George_’s Day, That every Knight should wear loosely before his Breast the Image of St. _George_ in a Gold Chain, or otherwise, in a Ribband, the same to be fasten’d within the ennobled Garter, for a manifest Distinction between the Knights-Companions, and others of the Nobility and Knights, who, according to the Mode of those Times, wore large Gold Chains, the ordinary Ensigns of Knighthood. And thus the wearing the Medal or Jewel, usually call’d the lesser _George_, to distinguish it from the other Work at the Collar of the Order, first receiv’d the Injunction, and hath since been frequently used.

THIS _George_ was, for the most part, pure Gold curiously wrought, but divers of them were exquisitely graved in Onyx’s and Agats, and with such a happy Collection of the Stones, that heightned and received their Beauty by the Skill of the Artificer, in contriving the Figures and History, the natural Tincture of the Stones have so fitted them with Colours for Flesh, Hair, and every thing else, even to Surprize and Admiration. In this Jewel is St. _George_ represented in a Riding Posture encountring the Dragon with his drawn Sword.

BY the last Article of King _Henry_ VIII’s. Statutes, it was allowed to be enriched at the Pleasure of the Possessor, (as is the great George) which for the most Part hath been curiously enamell’d, and the Garter about it sett with Diamonds. And of what weight and bigness these lesser _George_’s were, may be gather’d from that sent to the French King _Charles_ IX. being an Ounce and an half and half quarter Weight. The Variety of Workmanship in those Gold Chains whereat this Jewel hung, was usually great, according to the Fancy and Pleasure of the Persons for whom they were wrought. But within a short Space, wearing the lesser George in Silk-Ribbands, as well as Gold-Chains, was promiscuously us’d and _ad Libitum_. (So were the Symbols of Foreign Orders, as divers Coins and Medals declare.) But the Colour of these Ribbands when they came first to be wore, was black. _John Dudley_ Viscount _Lisle_, the Lords St. _John_ and _Parr_, so used them at their Investiture, 35 _Henry_ VIII. and several Pictures of other Knights-Companions about that time confirm the same. That small Chain whereat hung the lesser _George_ transmitted to _Emanuel_ of _Savoy_, _Ann._ 1 & 2 _Ph._ & _Mar._ was formed of twelve Pieces of Gold, in every of which was sett three small Diamonds, and of twelve other like Pieces, wherein were three Rubies and twenty four Pearls.

IT appears by a Letter of Sir _Richard_ St. _George_, Kt. _Clarencieux_, dated _July_ 10th, 1627. that the blue Ribband had some Years before been additional to the Ornament of the Order; and ’tis reported, that _Robert_ Earl of _Essex_ observing in _France_ the Jewels of the Order of St. _Michael_ and St. _Esprit_ worn in blue Ribbands, upon his return was the principal motive those Ribbands whereat the _George_ hung, were exchanged into that Colour. And in a Picture of Queen _Elizabeth_, drawn towards the Declension of her Reign, her lesser George is represented hanging before her Breast in a blue Ribband. And this Colour was more caressed, and grew in great repute, by reason it was the Ground of the Garter, and nearest the Colour of the Mantle of the Order: So that toward the latter End of the Reign of King _James_ I. because the dye of the Ribband had not been peculiarly express’d in any Statute, and the blue and azure accustomed for some Years past, it was decreed, That for the future it should be always of blue, and no other; nor in time of Mourning it self, should be changed.

THE Manner of wearing this Ribband in time of Peace, was of later Times pendant about the Neck, down to the Middle of the Breast, where the lesser George hung; but since, for the more Conveniency of Riding or Action, the same is spread over the left Shoulder, and brought under the right Arm where the Jewel hangs.

BUT where the Pictures of the Sovereign and Knights-Companions are drawn in Armour, there even to this Day the George is represented as fix’d to a Gold Chain instead of a blue Ribband, and worn about the Neck, not brought under the right Arm, as exhibited on the three Pound Pieces of Gold stamped at _Oxford_ by King _Charles_ I. 1643. and a Medal of _Charles_ Count Palatine of the _Rhine_, dated 1645.

AMONG the invaluable Jewels and other Curiosities of King _Charles_ I. which came to the Hands of the Trustees appointed for Sale of his Goods, were these,

_l. s. d._

A George containing 161 Diamonds, Sold for 71 2 0

A George cut in Onyx, with 41 Diamonds }
in the Garnish, } 37 0 0

A small George with a few Diamonds 9 0 0

A George with 5 Rubies and 3 Diamonds, }
and 11 Diamonds in a Box } 11 0 0

A George cut in a Garnet 8 0 0
-------
Total 136 2 0
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THE George King _Charles_ I. had at his Martyrdom, was curiously Engraved in an Onyx set about with twenty One large Table-Diamonds in the Fashion of a Garter. On the reverse of the said George was the Picture of the Queen set in a Case of Gold, the Lid neatly enamell’d with Goldsmith’s Work, and surrounded with another Garter adorned with an equal Number of Diamonds, as was that of King _Charles_ II. also sett with fair Diamonds; and after the Defeat given to the _Scotch_ Forces at _Worcester_, 4 _Car._ II. was strangely preserved by Colonel _Blague_, one of that King’s dispersed Attendants, who resigned it for safety to the Wife of Mr. _Barlow_ of _Blare-Pipe-House_ in _Stafford-shire_, where he took Sanctuary; from whom _Robert Milward_ Esq; receiv’d and gave it into the Hands of Mr. _Isaac Walton_, (all Loyalists.) It came again to _Blague_’s Possession, then Prisoner in the Tower; whence making his escape, he restor’d it to King _Charles_ II.

IT is worthy of Remark, that besides the Sovereign of the most Noble Order of the Garter, other Princes of Christendom have assumed the bearing St. _George_ encountring the Dragon in like Posture, tho’ not so anciently, nor upon the same Grounds and Foundation as they; probably having elected him Patron and Guardian of their Countries or Families; such as the Emperors of _Russia_, the Dukes of _Mantua_, and the Counts _Mansfield_ in _Germany_, as their Seals and Coins plainly demonstrate.

IN the Great Seal of _Borice Feodorwicke_, Emperour of _Russia_ affixed to his Letter sent to Queen _Elizabeth_, dated at _Mosco_, _June_ 12th, 1602, was a double Headed Eagle displaid, having each Head crowned, and bearing an Eschutcheon with the Representation of St. _George_ upon its Breast. There is another of this Emperour’s Great Seals, fixed to his Letter, dated _May_ 31st. 1594. which he also sent to Queen _Elizabeth_. On one side is the above-said Eagle, having on his Breast an Escutcheon charged with an Horse currant; the Reverse the Figure of St. _George_ encountring the Dragon with his Spear. The Great Seal of _Alexie Michaelowich_, Emperour of _Russia_, affixed to his Letters sent King _Charles_ II. 1660. hath a like Eagle with a third Crown situated between the two Heads, and bearing in a Cartouch-Compartment upon his Breast, the Figure of St. _George_: Which Representation of St. _George_ and the Dragon, we find assigned for Arms, to _Anne de Russie_, Daughter to _Jarislaus_ King of _Russia_ and _Muscovia_, given in Espousal to _Henry_ I. King of _France_, 1051. and thus Blazon’d, _D’in St._ Marthe _de Gueules, a un homme a Cheval, d’argent, tenant une Lance en la main, qu’il darde en la gueule d’un Dragon renverse_.

THE Counts of _Mansfield_ have frequently stamp’d it on their Coin. On one side is St. _George_ encountring the Dragon with his Sword, with this Circumscription, _Sanct. Geo. Co. do. de Man._ on the reverse, his Arms circumscribed, _Mon. de Arc. Co. do. de Man._ Of those of the Dukes of _Mantua_, we may see one of _Vincentius_ Duke of _Mantua_ and _Montferat_, a Knight of the Order of the _Golden Fleece_, wherein is his Effigies to the Breast, _Vinc. D. G. Dux MANT._ III. _MONTFERU._ on the Reverse St. _George_ and the Dragon, Motto, _Protector nostra aspic._ 1591. and _Casal_ at the Bottom.

§ 10. _When the Habit or part of it ought to be worn is the next thing we shall speak of._

THE more solemn Days and Occasions which require a fuller conformity, and the wearing the whole Habit, _i. e._ the Garter, Mantle, Surcoat, Hood, Collar, Great George, and Cap, are first, The High Festival of the Order, commonly called St. _George_’s Feast, whether it be solemnized on the 22d, 23d or 24th of _April_, annually, or any other Days within the Year by Prorogation, as is apparent by all the Bodies of the Statutes.

FOR, First it is ordained, That the Knights-Companions should be Arrayed in the whole Habit on the Eve of St. _George_, before the Sovereign proceeded to the Chapter to hear Divine Service, and being so Robed, should attend on the Sovereign to the Chapter-House, thence to the Chapel, and return with him back in the same manner, until after Supper, as well those that minded to Sup, as those that should not Sup; nor might they disrobe, until the Sovereign or his Deputy had put off his, or declar’d it seasonable for his or their doing so.

BY the same Statute they were enjoined to wear the whole Habit on the Feast of St. _George_, both at their Progression in the Morning to the Chapter-House or Chapel, at their return to Dinner from thence to the Second Vespers, and back to Supper, as also till Supper was over, and until the Sovereign or his Lieutenant took leave of the rest of the Knights-Companions.

_Secondly_, IT is manifest from King _Henry_ VIII’s Statutes, That the Eve, the Day of St. _George_, and Morrow following, were to be observed with solemn Service, and holding of Chapters wheresoever the Sovereign was resident; tho’ the Grand Feast were Prorogued to a longer Duration; and when by reason of such Prorogation, they should convene in any Place besides _Windsor_ to attend the Sovereign for the Solemnization of St. _George_’s Day, they then must Adorn themselves with the whole Habit from beginning of the first Vespers, until the last Evening Service of the same Day.

_Thirdly_, ON such other Days of the Year whereon the Grand Feast is held by Prorogation, and during such Part of the Eve and Day of the Feast, as is before appointed when it is held on its proper Day.

_Fourthly_, BY absent Knights, whensoever the Grand Feast of St. _George_ should be celebrated, and wheresoever they should happen at that time to reside, (if at Liberty, and not under restraint) to keep it in like manner as if then present with the Sovereign, or his Deputy in the Place where he should Celebrate the Feast. The time of wearing the whole Habit in this Point extends but to the End of the second Vespers, as in the second Instance above.

_Fifthly_, THE Knights-Companions are to wear the entire Habit at the Feasts of Installation when they assist at that Ceremony; where, if it commence in the Evening, they are not to disrobe themselves till after Supper; and being the next Morning habited as before, then to proceed to the Chapter-House or Chapel, and not to devest themselves till Dinner is ended.

THE less solemn Occasions are those, which require the wearing the Mantle or Collar of the Order only.

AND they are first, upon the Morrow after the Grand Feast-Day, when the Sovereign and Knights-Companions proceed to the Chapel, and make their Offering; then it sufficeth, that they barely put on the Mantle, which, Service being Finished, they were wont to leave it at the Chapter-House-Door as they retired out of the Chapel.

_Secondly_, AS often as Chapters are called, and in what Place soever assembled, either for Elections, or other Causes, as it shall please the Sovereign to nominate: And as often as it is requisite for the Sovereign, or any of the Knights-Companions to enter into the Chapel of St. _George_ at _Windsor_; and in reference hereunto, is the Article 15 _E._ 3. was that their Mantles should remain in the Vestry at _Windsor_, that upon any sudden emergency, they might be in readiness: for in the Inventory of the Chapel taken 8 _R._ 2. we find remaining at that time in the Vestry, a Mantle appertaining to the Sovereign, another to _John_ Duke of _Britain_, a third to _John Holland_ Earl of _Huntington_, another to _Edmund Langley_ Earl of _Cambridge_, and one to _Thomas Holland_, Earl of _Kent_, all of them then surviving: And by a Decree past at the Grand Feast 1 _H._ 6. the Mantle of the young Sovereign was appointed to be left at _Windsor_, as the Statutes required; and this Article was confirmed by King _Henry_ VIII. by Virtue whereof, the Mantles of the Emperor _Charles_ V. and _Anna_ Duke of _Montmorency_, were left in the Custody of the Dean and Canons of _Windsor_. And heretofore in the Bill of drawing up Matters necessary for the Installation of a Knight-Companion, there were usually two Mantles set down; one expressed to be left in the College, and the other for all other Occasions that might intervene.

THESE Mantles thus ordered to be reposed in the College upon emergent Occasions, were anciently committed to the Custody of the Black-Rod, as granted by Letters Patent with the Office 1 _H._ 5. And after the Death of the Owners, devolved to the Dean and Canons of _Windsor_, either for the publick Use of the Knights-Companions when they casually came to _Windsor_, or else sold sometimes to the Heirs of the Deceased, or others who succeeded in the Order, as that of _Charles_ V. was to the Earl of _Bedford_, and that of the Constable of _France_ lent to the Earl of _Warwick_, _Ann._ 7 _Eliz._ which appears from the Accounts of the Chanter of the College, _temp. H._ 4. _H._ 5. _H._ 8. Q. _Eliz._ and _Jac._ 1. who in all times answered the full Benefit thereof to the College, as being a certain Perquisite to the Dean and Canons, which they accordingly had and enjoyed.

AND yet we find some of the College made over-bold with the Robe of _Sigismond_ the Emperour, and sold it while he surviv’d. But the Archbishop of _York_, who, as Chancellor of _England_, visited the College, 1431. secured the Money from being distributed among those that sold it, and reserved the Dividend to the Dean and Chapter that should chance to be living at that Emperour’s Expiration; and commanded for the Future under Pain of Excommunication, That no Dean and Canon should imbezil or aliene any Knights-Companion’s Mantle while he was alive, but the same should be decently and faithfully kept and preserved. But we are informed, that this Statute was altered, _Ann._ 9 _Eliz._ and one drawn up to this effect, _That the Knights-Companions should be bound by Oath to take care by their Wills, that after their Decease, all the Ornaments which they had received should be restored, the Robes to the College, and the Jewels to the Sovereign that gave them_.

IN the last Place, the Times of wearing the Collar of the Order, with the Great _George_ appendant, which is not only enjoined to be worn (as part of the Habit) at the grand Feasts and Feasts of Installation, but also at other times when not any of the rest of the Habit is ordered (saving the Garter) is to be worn, as in special, _at the principal and solemn Feasts of the Year_, and other Feast-Days: To which a particular Order in Chapter, _Ann._ 4 _Eliz._ thus directs,

The Holy-days and Sundays within the twelve Days.
St. _Matthias_ Day.
Holydays in _Easter_-Week.
St. _Mark_’s Day.
St. _Philip_ and _Jacob_’s Day.
Holy-days in _Whitsun_-Week.
St. _Peter_’s Day.
St. _James_’s Day.
St. _Bartholomew_.
St. _Matthew_.
St. _Luke_.
St. _Simon_ and _Jude_.
St. _Andrew_.
St. _Thomas_.

BESIDES these, the Sovereigns and Knights-Companions have been accustomed to wear this Ensign upon the Anniversary of the Sovereign’s Coronation, of the _Gun-Powder Treason_, and, of later Times, on the Sovereign’s Birth-day: So formerly upon some occasional Ceremonies not relative to the Order; as when a Knight-Companion hath been created into Titles of Dignity and Honour, he had the Collar of the Garter added to his Investiture, as appears in the Case of _Henry Stafford_, created Earl of _Wiltshire_, _Ann._ 1 _Hen._ 8. And at a Chapter held _May_ 22d. 1622. That such Knights-Companions as should afterwards assist at the Funeral of any Knight-Companion, should wear the Collar _apert_ at the said Funeral. And it was so observed by the Dukes of _Ormond_ and _Richmond_, the Earls of _Manchester_ and _Sandwich_, at the Obsequies of _George Monk_ Duke of _Albemarle_.

Howbeit, the Custom is otherwise as to wearing the Garter, the principal Ensign of the Order; for tho’ it be injoyned to be wore at the grand Festivals, _&c._ yet it does not imply that it might be left off: For indeed it ought daily to be worn both by the Sovereign and Knights Companions. And therefore was it decreed even in its Institution, That if any Knight-Companion should in publick be found without one buckled about his Leg, upon Challenge he should be mulct a Noble to the Dean and College of _Windsor_. By King _Henry_ VIII. the Fine was raised a Mark, payable as before to any of the five Officers of the Order, or to the Dean; besides which Fine, the Knight lies liable to a Check. But to alleviate the Strictness, and obviating other Inconveniencies, King _Henry_ V. admitted of a Qualification; and in case of riding with Boots, ordained, That it might suffice if the Knight-Companion wore some Ribband or Silk-Lace to represent the Garter; tho’ in this very Article there is a Proviso, That no Knight-Companion should enter into Chapter, without his Garter buckled about the Leg.

In short, King _Henry_ VIII. ordained, That the Gold-Chain whereat the lesser _George_ (in that Age) hung, should be worn all other days in the Year, except the Principal and Solemn Feasts, whereon the great Collar was ordained to be worn, and except in time of War, Sickness, or long Voyage, in any of which Cases, a Silk-Lace or Ribband, with the Image of St. _George_ thereat, was sufficient; and the blue Ribband having since succeeded in Place of the Gold Chain, the Injunction of this Statute extends to it in all particulars.

CAP. VIII.

§ 1. CONCERNING the Officers appointed for the service of the Order, to give it a greater degree and augmentation of Honour, the Founder constituted a _Prelate_, _Register_ and _Usher_, assigning them several Duties. Some of his Successors added the _Chanchellor_ and _Garter_, and all of them Sworn to be of the Council of the Order; among these the _Prelate_ and _Chanchellor_ are usually nominated the Principal, the other three the inferiour Officers of the Order.

IN this Chapter we shall give some account of their Institution, Oath, Habit, Ensigns, Privileges and Pensions; for as to the nature of their Offices and their Duties, they are for the general, Recorded in the Black Book, under the Title _Constutiones ad Officiales Ordinis [Garterij] peculiariter attinentes_, &c. Upon the Establishment, _Anno_ 13. _Hen._ VIII. 1521. and annex’d to his Statutes, and more particularly their Duties, will occur in several places of the ensuing Discourse, where they properly fall in to be Treated of, as follows;

THE Prelate is the first and primier Officer, and in the Founders Statutes, call’d _Prælatus Ordinis_; and that the then Bishop of _Winchester_, _William de Edyngton_ was the first Prelate is very obvious from thence; he is an Officer of Honour only, and hath neither Pension nor Fees allowed him by the said Constitutions; this Office is vested in the Bishop of _Winchester_, for the time being; and from the Annals of the Order it’s manifest his Successors have continued Prelates to this Day, except the interruption only of a few Months, _Anno_ 7. _Ed._ 6. immediately after the publishing this King’s Statutes; wherein the other Four Officers were constituted anew, to attend the Order, but the Prelate wholly laid by.

WHAT high reputation this See hath been favour’d with, may be collected from an Act of Parliament, 31. _Hen._ VIII. concerning the Placing of the Lords in Parliament Chamber, and other Assemblies and Conferences of Council, whereby this Bishop had Place assigned him next to the Bishop of _Durham_, who hath place by that Act, next the Archbishop of _York_; tho’ before in respect of the prehemenence of this noble Order, he had precedence and Place granted above all Bishops, and next unto the Arch-Bishops. At that Officers admittance he is oblig’d to take an Oath in the presence of the Soveraign or his Lieutenant, which consists of these particulars.

1. _To be present in all Chapters, whereunto he is Summoned._

2. _To report all things truly without Favour or Fear._

3. _To take the Scrutiny faithfully, and present it to the Sovereign._

4. _To keep secret, and not disclose the Councils of the Order._

5. _To promote and maintain the Honour of it._

6. _To withstand and reveal what is designed to the contrary._

THIS Oath is read in Chapter, by the Register of the Order, the Gentleman-Usher of the Black-Rod, holding the Book, whilst the Prelate Kneels between the Sovereign’s Knees.

Of the ROBE.

AS the Knights-Companions had their Surcoats bestowed on them, at the Sovereigns charge, and therefore called the Kings Livery, so had the Officers of the Order their Liveries or Robes out of the Sovereign’s Wardrobe, and in particular the Prelate of the Order: For in the Rolls of the great Wardrobe, we find that _William de Edyngton_ had allow’d him for his Robe of the Sovereign’s Livery, against the Feast of St. _George_, Anno 37. _Ed._ III. one Cloth of Sanguine grain, and a large quantity of Furs for trimming it up: And we find this Robe so assigned the Prelate to be of the sute or colour of the Knights-Companions Surcoats the same Year, _viz._ Sanguine in grain, and that he had a great allowance of Furr; for his being a Mantle was larger than any of the Knights Surcoats, tho’ they are both call’d by the same name _Roba_ in the Rolls of the Wardrobe, _Anno_ 7. _Rich._ II. _William de Wyckham_ then Prelate had the same allowance, one Cloth of Violet in grain and other Materials. But the Discrimination was in the Bellies of Minevers, whose Number was now much encreased, and that the same allowance was bestowed on him in the 11th and 19th Years of the said King. But in these three Instances the Colour of the Cloth was different, and suitable to the Knights-Companions Surcoats, those very Years, _viz._ Violet in grain, White and Blue, and _Anno_ 12. _Hen._ VI. the Robe of _Henry Beaufort_, Cardinal and Prelate was White, as then were the Surcoats of the Knights-Companions, whence it is evident the Livery formerly allowed the Prelate annually varied in Colour, as did the Knights-Companions Surcoats.

IN that ancient Precedent of the Liveries of the Garter, remaining in the great Wardrobe, wherein the Surcoats of the Knights-Companions are reduced to a Stated proportion in the measure of the Cloth, number of Furs and Garters, modeled out according to their state degrees, there the Prelate hath the following allowance for his Livery,

24 Yards of Woollen Cloth.
18 Timber pur } Minever.
18 Timber gross.}
3 Timber de Biss.

BY all which it is manifest what Materials and colour the Prelate’s Robe was of at the institution of the Order, and for a long time after, nor do we find any variation until the Reign of King _Hen._ VIII. and then this Habit was ordained to be Crimson Velvet, lin’d with white Taffaty, faced with blue, and thereon down the opening before upon the bordures, sundry Royal cognizances on the right side, the Rose of _England_ Crowned, on the left side opposite one of King _Edw._ IV’s. Badges, _viz._ a Rose within the Sun Beams Crowned; and then the aforesaid Badges again _vice versa_, with more Damaskings; on the right side the Flower de luce of _France_ Crowned, and on the left side King _Edw._ III’s. peculiar Badge, _viz._ The Sun Beams issuing out of a Cloud, and those Badges repeated in alternate situations; every Badge interpolated with an Area of Embroidered Damasking; Forty of these Clouds wrought of Gold, Silver and Silk, having in the middle the _Saxon_ Letter _E_ of Gold, were provided to him several Garments made for that King 21 _Edw._ III. and Embellished with Stars. As the left Shoulder of a Knight Companions Mantle, so the right Shoulder of the Prelates Robe is injoyned to be Embroidred with a Scutcheon of St. _George_’s Arms, encompassed with a Garter, and adorned with Cordons of blue Silk mingled with Gold. After a while the colour of this Robe became changed to Murray. The allowance of Velvet 16 Yards, of white Sarcenet for Lining 12 Yards, and a Garter for the Shoulder, Embroidred with Purls of Damask Gold. But 23 _Eliz._ for the Livery of Bishop _Watson_ then newly admitted, the quantity of Velvet was encreased to 18 Yards; but the Lining and Garter remained as it was, so also the Cordon, having Buttons and Tassels of blue Silk, and _Venice_ Gold; the like Robe in all particulars were made for Bishop _Cooper_, and Bishop _Bilson_, his Successars, _Temp. Eliz._

ABOUT 12 _Car._ I. the Prelate and Chancellor Petition’d the Sovereign to restore them their ancient Rights and Privileges of Honour, in relation to their Ensigns and Robes upon their outward Garments, whereupon 13 _Car._ I. it was Ordered in Chapter, that the Knights-Commissioners (newly Established by that Chapter) should take into their consideration the Robes the Prelate and Chancellor were to be invested with, and certify the Sovereign the ancient Colour and Fashion; but nothing was effected untill after the Restoration, and then by Warrant under the Signet of the Order, Dated _February_ 19. 13. _Car._ II. the Prelate had assigned him for his Livery of the Order, one Robe of Purple Velvet, containing 18 Yards, and 10 Yards of white Taffaty for Lining, as also the Arms of St. _George_ within a Garter, wrought with Letters, and Purls of Damask, Gold and Pearls, having Laces, Buttons and Tassels of purple Silk, and _Venice_ Gold; but what inducements the Sovereign had for so changing the Murray Colour for Purple, has not reached our Intelligence. The time he is obliged to Wear this Robe, is in express text of the Constitutions, to be Yearly on the Vigil and Day of St. _George_, wheresoever he is at liberty, whether it be in Parliament, or any other solemn Occasion, or Festival whatsoever.