Chapter I: Part 1

THE “KEYSTONE”
JACKET AND DRESS CUTTER.
A TREATISE ON JACKETS, DRESSES AND OTHER GARMENTS FOR WOMEN.
SPECIALLY DESIGNED FOR SELF-INSTRUCTION.

BY CHAS. HECKLINGER.

NEW YORK:
THE HERALD OF FASHION CO.,
15 West 27th Street.

1895.

ENTERED ACCORDING TO ACT OF CONGRESS, IN THE YEAR 1895, BY

THE HERALD OF FASHION CO.,

IN THE OFFICE OF THE LIBRARIAN OF CONGRESS AT WASHINGTON, D. C.

INDEX.

PAGE
Title 1
Preface 6
Introduction 7
The Measures 8
Drafting the Waist 12
Large Form with Extra Length of Waist 18
Stout Form 20
Erect Form 22
Stooping Form 24
The Eton Jacket 26
The Bolero or Zouave Jacket 28
The Darts in the Forepart 29
The Dart for a Very Narrow Front 30
Darts for Small-waisted Forms 31
Low-neck Waist 32
Jackets 33
Jackets with Full Skirts 36
Short Jacket with Plaited Skirt 40
Cutaway Jackets 41
Covert Jacket 42
Frock Coat 44
Cutaway Frock Jacket 46
Riding Jacket, Double-breasted 48
Riding Jacket, Single-breasted 50
Shirt Waists 52
Shirt Waist with Yoke 54
The Plain Sleeve 56
Changes from the Plain Sleeve 58
Large Sleeve Head 60
A Very Full Sleeve 62
Sleeve for Shirt Waist 64
Single-breasted Vests 66
Double-breasted Vests 70
Collars 72
Broad Collars 75
Full Round Collar 76
Three-quarter Cape 76
Plain Cape 78
Wrap-shaped Cape 78
The Ulster 80
Dress Skirts 82
The Full Dress Skirt 84
Riding Skirt 86
Trousers 90
Breeches 92

PREFACE.

In preparing this work an endeavor has been made to do three things: First, to make the systems the simplest and most reliable ever offered to the trade; second, to illustrate and explain them so clearly and fully that to study and not understand them will be impossible; and third, to consider and exhaustively treat every style of garment made for women by tailors and dressmakers. That the success attained may be considered commensurate with the intention, study and labor the work represents, is the earnest hope of the

AUTHOR.

INTRODUCTION.

Recognizing the great and growing need of a reliable and comprehensive text book on ladies’ tailoring, and in response to the innumerable inquiries for such a work that have come to the writer during the past few years, the systems and technical information given in these pages were made and compiled. The systems are the outgrowth of the practical experience of the author and of many others who are expert in ladies’ tailoring, and combine simplicity and accuracy as they were never before combined in the systematic delineation of ladies’ garments.

They are essentially the same as those published by the same author some years ago, the principles of which have been demonstrated to be sound by severe and long continued tests under every variety of condition; but they have been so improved as scarcely to be recognized and are, for all practical purposes, new systems. That this work contains a larger amount of valuable information about ladies’ tailoring than is contained in all other works on the subject ever published, will be cheerfully admitted, we are sure, by any one who carefully studies it.

THE MEASURES.

The greatest possible care should be taken in measuring to obtain correct lengths and widths, as only right measures will enable us, in drafting, to define the size and position or attitude of the form measured.

We must, therefore, take the measures from and to accurately located points.

The height of the neck can be easily and correctly located by the eye, and the front and bottom of the arm by the use of a small square; but the waist line, which is a measuring station of the greatest importance, must be defined as follows:

Place an elastic band around the waist, just above the hips, and adjust it so that it is perfectly level.

_Whether the waist is to be long or short, the band must be placed as directed; the actual waist length can then be increased or diminished according to style or taste._

As the measures that terminate at the belt govern the balance of the garment and indicate attitude, the importance of adjusting it accurately _and always over the same part of the waist will be apparent_.

Having adjusted the belt, proceed as follows:

THE BACK LENGTH.

Apply the measuring tape to the socket bone at the neck as marked by A, Figure 1, and measure down to the lower edge of the belt, which gives the actual length of the back.

Should we desire to make the waist longer or make it appear so, because taste or style requires it, take what extra length may be suggested before removing the tape from the neck.

For a jacket we continue down to the point where the bottom should be, and for a long ulster, to the floor, as to D and E.

FRONT LENGTH.

Placing the tape to the same point at neck, carry it along the neck, and let it fall over the shoulder past the front of the arm. It should not be drawn down close against the arm but should pass from 1 to 1½ inch in front of it, but not over the bust, straight down to the bottom of the belt at the side, as shown on Figure 2, where the point is marked N.

THE FRONT OF ARM.

This is also called the “Blade Measure.” For this we use a small square with a short tape measure attached.

This square is placed under the arm, against which, as it hangs straight down, it presses firmly.

The tape is then drawn smoothly across to the center of the back, at B, as shown on Figure 1, and the measure noted.

THE HEIGHT UNDER ARM.

Without removing the square draw the tape downward, being careful not to disturb or lower the square, and measure to the bottom of the belt at G.

Should the square have changed its position, replace it close up to the arm again.

THE LENGTH OF SLEEVE.

While the square is in position draw the tape down straight to the wrist at K, or to the point desired for the length of the sleeve.

This ends the usefulness of the square.

THE BREAST MEASURE.

Standing behind the figure we place the tape across the fullest part of breast and carry it under the arms and across the back, being careful that it adheres over the surface closely, and call off the measure. This should be smoothly taken, neither too close nor too easy.

THE WAIST MEASURE.

Remove the elastic belt, and place the tape around the waist and draw it tight. Should a belt be worn it had better be removed, especially when measuring for a dress-waist. In the latter case take the size very close.

THE HIP MEASURE.

Is taken 6 inches below the natural waist, always easy, and smoothly around. No measure is required below the hips.

THE ELBOW.

The elbow measure is taken close to obtain the size of arm. Any width can easily be added over this for easy sleeves.

THE WRIST.

Around the cuff of dress or wrist, also taken close to obtain the right size, any extra size needed is added.

On button-up dresses take a close neck measure.

THE SYSTEM.

DRAFTING THE WAIST.

DIAGRAM 1.

I shall commence to explain the drafting of ladies’ garments by showing first how a waist pattern is produced.

This being the covering for the body, from the neck down to the natural waist its construction gives the principle on which all close-fitting garments are based. Whatever the shape or measures used, the points are all established on this principle; and this, therefore, will be the foundation of all our drafts.

We shall use the following measures to draft by:

Back length to natural waist, 15 inches.
Front length to side of hip, 18½ „
The blade, or front of arm, 10 „
The height under the arm, 7½ „
Breast, 36 „
Waist, 24 „

Begin by drawing the line O B, and at a right angle with this draw the line O F.

From O to 1 place ¾ inch. _This is always the same, whether the measure is small or large._

From 1, which will be the top of back, apply the natural waist length, which is 15 inches, giving point B.

Upward from B place the height under the arm, 7½ inches in this case, giving point A. Now square lines across from A and B.

From B to C is ¹⁄₁₂ of the breast size. Draw a line from C to 1 at top of back, and from where this line crosses the breast line at A1, apply one-half the breast measure, 18 inches, to locate G.

From A1—the back-seam—measure out the “Front of Arm” measure to K. This is 10 inches. At K square a line up and down, as shown to I and J.

_Now, on the long arm of the square, we find what size is given on the_ TWO-THIRDS _scale opposite the 10-inch (size of blade) point. Having ascertained what it is—for this size it is 15, or ½ of 30_—we find on the short arm 15 on the Scale of Fourths—3¾ inches—and this amount we place back from K to obtain L, from where a line is drawn up to the top line.

Divide the distance between the top—V—and the under-arm line in halves, which gives point Z.

Point T is half-way between Z and the top line, point V.

In the middle, between T and Z, is point 3.

From O to 2 is ⅛ of the blade, 15, the amount found as explained above in italics. Connect 2 with 3 by a straight line, and curve the top of the back from 1 to 2.

O to 9 is ⅓ of the breast, 6 inches. Square a line down from 9. Opposite Z is 8 on the line just drawn.

From X to C draw a straight guide line. Make the width of the bottom of the back, C to D, 1½ inch and form the back.

Measure the distance G to K, and in the middle locate P, from which point square up to E on the top line.

To locate the front length in accordance with the measure, apply the tape 1 inch in front of J on the waist line, as at the dot, and measure up to E, the front length, 18½ inches, _less the width of the top of back_. This will place point E on the upper line in this case.

But this measure will vary for erect and stooping forms. For erect forms it will reach above the upper line, as on Diagrams 6 and 7, and then a line is drawn to the front as E to F, from which point the neck is formed.

For stooping figures this measure is short and will not reach to the top line, as seen on Diagram 8, where it is fully explained.

E is the front shoulder point. Now draw a straight line from E to T.

Place from E to F ⅙ of the breast measure, and to N the same from F down.

Next draw a straight line for the run of the front from F down through G, reaching H.

DIAGRAM 2.

Take the distance of back shoulder from 2 to X, place it on the line from E to 13, and curve the front shoulder slightly.

The distance between the lines X and 3 is placed forward of line K, giving line O O.

Form the armhole from 13 to O O and K.

Go in from 8 to top of sidebody ¼ inch; curve the side-seam from 11 up, and finish the armhole, being careful not to curve too much at W.

DIAGRAM 3.

From D to 16 is 1 inch.

The sidebody seam is now drawn from 11 down to 16, with a slight round.

Go out from G to the front line ½ inch and shape the front from N, passing the star near G, and touching at H.

Divide the distance G K into 3 parts, which gives S and T.

Place point U ½ inch back of S.

Divide the distance H and J into 3 parts, giving points Q and R.

Draw lines from U through Q and from T through R, for the center of the darts.

Make V ⅓ from U to Q, and make W ½ inch higher.

Measure the pattern from C to D and 16 to H, which will be found to be 17 inches, an amount much too great for the size of the waist.

The amount _that it is too large_ must be taken out in darts, two of which we take out on every waist.

The size of the pattern is 17 inches.

Pattern, 17 inches.
½ waist, 12 inches.
——
Difference, 5 inches.

We add a cut under arm of ½ inch, which amount is to be taken from this 5 inches, leaving 4½ inches for the darts. This gives us 2¼ inches for each dart, which amount is placed equally on each side of the center lines Q and R.

From Q, therefore, to 4 and 5 1⅛ inch, and from R to 6 and 7 is also 1⅛ inch.

Now draw the darts.

DIAGRAM 4.

On this diagram take the distance from the dart at 7 to 16, and divide it into 3 parts, giving points 15 and 17.

From point 15 draw a straight line up to 14, parallel with that from J to K.

From point 17 draw the line so that it will be nearly parallel with line 14 to 15.

But it may be desirable to obtain a sidebody narrow at the armhole; if it is, place the line closer to the back.

At 12 nip a slight amount from the middle sidebody, but let the upper point remain on the same level, so that one seam will not be shorter than the other.

Curve the seam slightly below L by taking out no more than ¼ inch.

On the seam 14 to 15 we must take out ½ inch at 15—the amount we subtracted from the total waist when regulating the darts.

Add to the front length from H to 10 1 inch, and shape bottom edge from 16, which is ½ below the waist line, to 17, on to 15 and forward to 10.

LARGE FORM WITH EXTRA LENGTH OF WAIST.

DIAGRAM 5.

The measures by which this diagram was drafted are as follows:

Waist length, 15–20½.
Front length, 18½.
Blade measure, 10¾.
Height under arm, 7½.
Breast, 40.
Waist, 28.
Hip, 46.

Draw all the lines and establish all the points in the same manner as already explained, with the following exceptions:

The pattern measures from C to D and 16 to H, 19½ inches, while the waist is only 14 inches.

Pattern, 19½ inches.
Waist, 14 inches.
——
Difference, 5½ inches.

Taking off ½ inch for the cut under the arm leaves us 5 inches to be divided and applied to the two darts, or 2½ inches to each.

This is applied equally on each side of the center lines Q and R.

To give the darts a good shape, draw a line in the middle between V and W and 5 and 6, and make the seams run below 5 and 6 to 2 and 3, with only a perceptible difference in width at 2 and 3 beyond that at 5 and 6.

From 4 on the waist line the seam is straight to 1, but from 7 to O it springs out nearly, or quite, to the straight center line of dart.

After the under-arm seams have been established, draw a line across 6 inches below the waist line for the hip.

Draw a line from the top of the sidebody through point 16 at waist, and curve below 16 somewhat for round of hip, or about ½ inch from E to 9.

Draw a straight guide line from C down at right angles with the waist line, then extend the back-seam line down from C, so that it will be in the middle between the two dotted lines and reach to F.

From D draw the line straight down square with the waist line.

Next to establish the spring needed for hip room according to the measures, we first measure F to E, then 9 to O, then 3 to 2, and then 1 to front line M.

This gives us 19 inches, while ½ of the hip is 23 inches.

Hip, 23 inches.
Pattern, 19 inches.
——
Difference, 4 inches.

These 4 inches must be added to make the draft roomy enough to cover the hips.

The lines under the arms having been drawn as far as necessary, we place on either side of them to C and D 1 inch, and the same to A and B, making the allowance at each place 2 inches, or equal to the size we must have.

Commencing then at 17, draw to C and D, and commencing at 15 draw to A and B.

The lower edge may be drawn as on this diagram by shortening it over the hips, or it may remain on the lower straight line.

“_Remember in getting the size of the hips not to include the darts, as they are established and their amount is to be cut out._”

STOUT FORM.

DIAGRAM 6.

The measures for this diagram are:

Length of back, 15–19½.
Front length, 20.
Blade, 13.
Height under the arm, 7.
Breast, 46.
Waist, 33.

Obtain all the points by the measures as explained, with the following exceptions:

Mark a point 1 inch in front of J on the waist line.

Measure up from this point to the line at E, applying the front length 20, less the width of the top of the back. This measure locates point E somewhat above the top line, in this case 1 inch. It may, however, be more or less on different forms, as much in fact as 2 inches for very stout figures.

When point E has been established, draw a line over to F and place ⅙ of breast to locate F.

Then ⅙ breast is placed below F for the neck or height of gorge.

The neck in front is always regulated by the position of the shoulder point, and rises or falls with it.

On large forms, such as we are now considering, the distance between the darts and the back is so great that it is advisable to make three sidebodies.

Take the distance between the dart point 7 and the point of the sidebody at 16 and divide this in the middle, which gives B.

Then divide 7 and B, fixing 15, and also B and 16, locating 17.

Draw the first two lines, 14 to 15 and A to B, straight up, and that from 17 to 12 with the view of gaining a narrow form at top. Draw the seams by curving slightly, as suggested by the diagram.

The hip room is in this case divided on the three seams, each one being increased, of course, less than when there are only two used.

Should the form be very fleshy over the stomach, it will be necessary to add a trifle extra spring to the dart-seams below the waist line, as shown by 1, 2 and 3.

ERECT FORM.

DIAGRAM 7.

The measures of this draft are:

Length of back, 16–20.
Length of front, 21.
Blade measure, 10½.
Height under arm, 8.
Breast, 38.
Waist, 26.
Hip, 44.

All the points are located as already explained, with the following exceptions:

To establish the front shoulder apply the front length from the dot at side to line at E. This will reach above the top line.

_Always deduct from this measure the width of the top of back._

When E has been located, draw the line over to F, and place ⅙ of breast forward from E to fix F.

From F go down ⅙ breast to N for the neck, and draw all the other lines as directed.

It will be seen that the lower edge is kept straight across the hip line, the same as on a short jacket.

STOOPING FORM.

DIAGRAM 8.

For this form the measures are:

Length of back, 16–18.
Front length, 18½.
Blade, 10½.
Height under arm, 7½.
Breast, 36.
Waist, 25.

The points are located by these measures as previously explained, with the following exceptions:

In drawing in the darts, guide lines may be of benefit. These are as follows:

After the points have been located, draw straight lines from V through 4 and 5, and from W through 6 and 7.

It will be seen that from 4 down to 8 the dart-seam must run nearly straight down, and that those from 5 to 9 and 6 to 3 follow with the same shape. The one from 7 to 2, however, must have more spring, or twice as much from the dotted line as any of the others.

The front length in this case is short because of the stooping figure and flatness of chest.

Applying the front length, 18½ inches, toward E, it will not reach to the top line, but falls, instead, 1 inch below it.

When fixed, place over from 12 to F, on a line drawn from 12, the usual ⅙ breast, and from F to N the same.

_Whenever the shoulder point is low the neck must follow._

As stooping forms usually have prominent shoulder-blades, it is necessary to enlarge slightly the opening between the top of the sidebody and the back at 8, and take out at waist (16) ¼ to ⅜ inch more to conform with the curve of the blade, and at the same time to enlarge the opening at Z a trifle.

It is also an advantage to take a measure from the neck in front, N, to the natural waist, to determine how long the front should be.

A form like the one just described needs no change in the darts.

THE ETON JACKET.

DIAGRAM 9.

After the right-angled lines O F and O B have been drawn, place from O to 1 the regular ¾ inch.

From 1 to B is the length of the natural waist.

B up to A the height under the arm.

The other fitting points are all fixed by the measures, as already explained.

When point X has been established, lay the square against the back line A1 and D, and move it up or down till its short arm will rest on point X, and then draw a line to X.

Next place the square on this line and square down from X to 8, giving thus the best run of the scye line of the back.

This method can be used on all drafts, instead of merely relying on the eye.

Only one dart is needed and cut in these jackets, and we must therefore reduce the size one-third at the side under the arm, leaving only two-thirds for the dart as the amount to be suppressed to the size of the waist.

In locating the one dart, start it from the center point P and let the line run parallel with the front edge, which causes the distance Q H to be equal to that of P to G, and then place what is to be taken out in a dart on either side of Q to 5 and 6.

Do not curve the lines of the dart below the waist line, but follow the form shown at S and T. This will cause the jacket to cling close to the waist, while if spring were added it would be loose on the lower edge and flare out.

The shape at the bottom is 1 to 1½ inch longer than the natural waist at back, point 10, and only ½ to ¾ inch over the hips; but toward the front it points downward, giving the effect desired.

The star below the shoulder point E is 1 inch from the curve of the neck.

From this point the break line is drawn to where the roll is to turn, and the turn of the lapel is added beyond this—made wide or slim as individual taste may desire.

These jackets have a peaked lapel and narrow coat collar. The latter is usually drafted like the one shown by Diagram 63, but that shown by Diagram 60 will answer equally as well.

THE BOLERO, OR ZOUAVE JACKET.

DIAGRAM 10.

Draw the lines O B and O F. From O to 1 is ¾ inch. From 1 to B is the waist length.

Up from B to A is the height under the arm. The widths are fixed as for any waist. When the front edge is established, take the middle between G and A1, which fixes W. Draw the dart line straight down from point P, and make the width from S to T only ⅓ of what the darts demand.

Place ¼ waist from C to D, and make the distance from front line H to S and T to V the same. Connect W with V by a straight line, and also W with D. The front is either shaped like the diagram, or made pointed at the bottom of the front.

These jackets are often made from 1 to 2 inches shorter than the natural waist line, but when so made no dart is taken out, because they must be loose around the bottom. No collar is required. If a revere is to be added it is the same as for a jacket.

THE DARTS IN THE FOREPART.

DIAGRAM 11.

The location of the darts and the way the seam lines are drawn exert considerable influence on the fit of the front.

If they have been drawn to the size required, and are shaped as those on this diagram, they will be just right. But that no mistake may occur, we suggest the use of guide lines. In the middle between the tops of the darts, points C and B, we have located A, and in the middle of the center piece at I we have made a dot.

From A through this dot draw a straight line like the one shown. Now the width of the center piece should be equal on each side of the straight line, and should be for 2 to 3 inches below the waist line no greater in width than at I on the waist line. It will be seen, therefore, that both of these seam lines are straight down from the waist, but the one from G is a trifle more forward.

With the view of gaining some spring at the bottom at K and at the side at N, it is desirable to shape the line from J to F to about 1½ inch from the straight line E from B through J. This is better than to add spring at the side, O, for this would produce wrinkles at the waist.

DIAGRAM 12.

On very narrow fronts it may be advisable to take out only one dart, which is here illustrated.

First both darts are drawn to the size required. Then in the middle, A through I, we draw a line and place on each side to E and D ⅔ of both darts, and shape the seams below the waist line as shown.

The ⅓ that is left is taken off the side from G to F, and the side-seam is then formed as represented.

Be sure that the front and also the back line of the dart will retain the same shape as the original darts as shown by the dotted lines.

DIAGRAM 13.

On all small-waisted forms, or on dress waists, transferring the front dart forward 1 inch at 1, as shown by the solid line, will give the waist more of a pointed appearance toward the bottom, and cause it to appear narrow in front.

The size of the first dart is, therefore, drawn in from 1 to 3, and the piece between the darts is retained of the same width; the second dart is then drawn to the original width.

LOW-NECK WAIST.

DIAGRAM 14.

This is drawn to measure. It is then cut down on the back and the front to a square shape, reaching to within 2 inches of the breast line.

A V at the front of breast, ¼ inch wide, is usually taken out from C to A. This V is cut only in the lining, and the outside material must be arranged over it.

The darts are always advanced, as explained for Diagram 13.

All dress waists require 3 sidebodies, in order that no one shall be wider at the waist than another, as narrow sidebodies facilitate the work in obtaining a smooth fit about the waist line.

To have these in equal proportion, take the distance from the inside edge of the last dart to E, divide it into 4 equal parts, giving points D, 4 and 5, and draw the seams as shown.

Those from D to B and 4 to 6 run straight up, but that from 5 and 7 is drawn so that the last sidebody between 7 and 8 will appear narrow.

The low-neck effect is also drawn on a curve so as to show two styles.

JACKETS.

DIAGRAM 15.

To show the best way of drafting these, so that it may be clearly understood, we shall go over every point in the most careful manner.

The measures to be used are:

The back length to the natural waist, 15.
Total length to the bottom, 32.
Front length to the side of hip, 19.
The blade, or front of arm, 10.
The height under the arm, 7½.
Breast, 36.
Waist, 25.
Hip, 46.

It may be the place just here to state that all jackets of sack shape are drafted in a similar manner to this one, and that the length alters in no way the location of the points or the run of the lines.

While this example is drafted with two darts, others are given where only one is used, or none at all, and by following the instructions given every modification can readily be adopted.

HOW TO DRAFT.

First we draw the line from O to C, and the one at top from O to T at a right angle with the first line.

From O to 1 is ¾ inch for the top of back.

Apply the waist length from 1 to the waist line at B, 16 inches, and continue down to the bottom at C, 32 inches, the full length.

Go up from B to fix A, the height under the arm, which is 7½ inches.

Now, from points A, B and C, draw square lines across.

From B to D is ¹⁄₁₂ of breast.

Draw the back-seam from 1 to D.

Make the width of back at waist from D to 6 about 1½ inch for a short jacket, and a trifle more for a long one.

At a right angle with the waist line draw one down from D, which reaches the point marked ⅞, and also draw one down from 6, which reaches the point marked ⅝.

Extend the back line down from D to C, giving it a slight outward curve.

Whatever has been added at the bottom from ⅞ to C must be placed from ⅝ to 10, to give the run of the side-seam from 6 at waist to point 10 at bottom.

Place from the back-seam, A1, to H, the blade measure, 10 inches, and draw a line up and down to V and J.

The distance to H being 10 inches, ⅔ is 15, or ½ of 30.

We bear in mind the number 15, and seek on the short arm the fourth of the same, which is equivalent to 3¾ inches, and place this back from H to give point F.

From F up to the top line draw a line square with that of the under-arm line.

Divide the distance between F and the top line, which gives point M, and also divide the distance of M and the top line, giving K.

In the middle between M and K place L.

Make the width of the top of the back from O to 2, ⅛ of the blade 15, and connect 2 with L by a straight line.

Go out from O along the top line to locate N, ⅓ of the breast, and draw a short line down to 4.

Make a mark opposite M at 4, and draw the side-seam of the back to 6.

Go in from 6 to 7 in all cases 1 inch, and nip in the top of the sidebody at 4 about ⅜ inch; then draw the sidebody from the latter point with a sharp curve to 7.

Lay a straight edge at 7 and the top of the sidebody, draw a line as shown by the dotted line on the diagram, which reaches to C, and then curve the seam over the hip line about ½ inch, as shown.

Curve the armhole from 5 to 4 and to the line under the arm, at point H.

Place from A1 to G ½ of the full breast measure for the front line.

In the middle between G and H at the armhole fix point P, from which a line is drawn up to the top.

Take the front length and apply it from the dot, which is 1 inch in front of point J at the waist, upward on the line P U, deducting from it the width of the top of the back.

This measure locates point U.

From U to point K draw a straight line, and place from U to 3 the width of the back shoulder, 2 to 5.

The distance between the lines 5 and K is placed from line H to fix line Oo.

Shape the armhole from 3 to H, touching line Oo.

From U to T place ⅙ of the breast, and from T through G draw the front line, which will reach to S.

Then curve beyond G ½ inch to Q, and below add ½ over R and straight down to the bottom, as shown by the solid line.

Go down from T ⅙ breast to 1 and form the neck.

Now we come to the darts.

Take the distance between H and G and divide it into 3 parts, which gives W and the dot in front of X.

Make a mark 2 inch back of the dot, which will be X.

Next measure the distance between Q and J and divide this into 3 parts, giving the two stars numbered ¼ and ½.

From X and W draw straight lines through the stars down to the bottom.

To find out what must be taken out in darts, we measure the size of the pattern from D to 6 and 7 to Q, which in this case gives 17 inches.

Deducting the ½ size of the waist, 13 inches, from 17, leaves 4 inches, which is the amount for the darts, and as there are two of them, each will be 2 inches wide.

Place, then, from the star at ¼ to U and V 1 inch, and from the star at ½ to Y and X, also 1 inch, which will make each V 2 inches wide.

A little higher than ½ from the waist line to that under arm locate 3 and Z. Shape the seams of the darts through U, V, X and Y, and continue the lines down to 12 and 13, where they will be about ½ inch apart.

Where these lines pass the hips, give them a slight curve toward the center line.

Measure the distance from the dart at Y to 7 and divide into 3 parts, giving 9 and 8.

From 9 draw a straight line up and down parallel to the line J H.

From 8 a straight line is also drawn up and down.

Curve and take out on line 9 about ½ inch and only a trifle on seam 8.

Now we must add the hip room, and in getting this we first measure the width of the back on the line E, which is 6 inches below the waist line.

Then measure from the sidebody at T to the front at R, deducting the size of the darts, which gives 19 inches.

But one-half hip calls for 23 inches, which requires 4 inches to be added. These 4 inches we place on each side of the black dots on the hip line, 1 inch each to 15–14 and 23–22, and then draw the seams, curving from 9 and 8 through these points to the bottom.

The utmost care is to be taken that all lines below the waist shall run parallel to each other, except those on the back.

We have seen that the back line of the sidebody from 7 to C is regulated by the line from top to C.

Now the one from 8 to 10 should be equi-distant all the way down, so that 10 to C will be the same distance as 22 to T, and so all the others.

It will be noticed that all lines tending backward are parallel with the first line, 7 to C, and all those forward follow the shape of the line from Q to S.

Add 1 inch in front of the line 1 Q for lap for a single-breasted front.

As the lines below the waist overlap it is difficult to cut the pieces out, as all require piecing.

To obviate this, underlay the draft by a sheet of paper, and with a tracing wheel trace along the line of the sidebody 4, 7 to C and I, 8 to A3.

This gives you the sidebody next to the back.

It will be of advantage in regulating the length to mark the waist line.

Cut out the sidebody.

Then, having a sheet of paper underneath the other sidebody, we trace it out along the lines H, 9 to A2, and I, 8 to 10, also tracing the waist line.

We now have the two sidebodies, and can proceed to cut out the back and the front. In doing this, we destroy the two sidebodies, but by tracing them we have them in full size, and thus have also been enabled to get the back and the front without piecing.

JACKETS WITH FULL SKIRTS.

DIAGRAMS 16, 17, 18 AND 19.

DIAGRAM 16.—The jacket drafted, as illustrated and explained for Diagram 15, is to measure, and will therefore cling close to the figure over the hips.

To produce the skirt part with a certain amount of drapery, some addition is required over the pattern as drawn.

It is not necessary to draw a new pattern to obtain the extra fullness that may be desired, as it can be marked out directly on the cloth.

Yet when it occurs that the amount of material is scant, it will be advisable to have a correct pattern.

We take the back first (see Diagram 16), mark along its edges down to the waist, and one inch below the waist line mark another line as B, and 6 inches below another as C.

The original pattern is represented by the dotted lines.

Now for a full-skirted coat that will show considerable fullness below the waist, add 1 inch from 3 to 4, and the same from 1 to 2.

Then draw straight lines from the edge of the pattern on line B through 2 and 4, which will reach D and E.

Mark a point in the middle of waist as A, and pivoting at this point sweep the bottom each way to gain the right length.

DIAGRAM 17.—The first sidebody is marked along the edges down to the waist.

One inch below this a line is drawn as marked by B, and 6 inches farther down is drawn the line C.

On each side of the original pattern from F to G and H to J place 1 inch, and then draw straight lines from the sides of the pattern on line B through J and G, which will reach E and D.

The center A is used as a pivot to sweep the bottom.

DIAGRAM 18.—Mark from the waist line up as shown. The same 1 inch is placed below A to B, and the hip line is 6 inches from A.

From F to G place 1 inch, and from D to E the same amount. Draw straight lines from line B through points G and E, which will reach to J and H.

From the center A sweep the lower edge.

THE FRONT DIAGRAM 19.

Mark along the pattern above the waist, down the front and the darts.

Place on line C, which is the same as on the other diagrams, 1 inch for extra hip, and draw from B a straight line to D.

Point A is in the middle between the dart and side-seam, and is the pivot from which to sweep the length from D forward to the back dart.

Forward from the back dart it runs straight across.

This forepart can be cut with only one dart, as shown on Diagrams 12 and 22, or if a loose front is preferable the darts are left out, only that the side-seam at B is reduced from 1 to 1½ inch, and a small amount is taken off at D.

Should it be desirable to have fullness or plaits only in the back, then it obviously needs no addition on the sidebody (Diagram 18) at G, but will retain the shape F of the dotted line, and of course have nothing added from D to E.

The addition of 1 inch as given will cast considerable fullness in the skirt, and for current styles is just right for jackets whose length is from 33 to 38 inches.

If, however, the coat is made 40 to 50 inches long, the spread caused by the lines drawn through the 1 inch increase would be altogether too large at bottom.

Therefore for long garments the distance to be added at D and E, or on the other points on the hip line, should be no more than ½ inch, which would give ample fullness for a long garment.

The addition to be added for a double-breasted shape may be 3 to 4 inches, and this should run parallel with the original front edge, which is represented by the dotted line.

The shape of the turnover lapel being a matter of taste, no set rule can be established.

SHORT JACKET WITH PLAITED SKIRT.

DIAGRAM 20.—This pattern retains its shape above the waist as cut.

Below, any amount may be added, according to the effect desired.

By adding 4 to 6 inches on either side of the original, we gain the lines D and G, giving sufficient fullness to produce three plaits in the back skirt. That from E to D being the one in the center, and F to G those on the sides. From A, as pivot, sweep the length each way from C.

DIAGRAM 21.—For a short jacket the sidebody should not have too much fullness, and therefore an addition of from 1 to 1½ inch at 1 and 2 will be about right.

DIAGRAM 22.—This is plain, with only one dart, with a reduction in size on the side-seam. It is usually cut with the sidebody attached from O downward.

In such cases overlap the sidebody and front below the hip till the distance between them is 1 inch at D.

The dart is then only cut as far down as O, and a little more spring added at C.

The amount added for lap at front is 1 inch, and two styles of turnover for the lapel are shown.

CUTAWAY JACKETS.

DIAGRAM 23.—This diagram shows what deviation can be made from the original draft, as shown by the dotted lines, when two darts are drawn in.

First it is decided to have the front edge to run from O past P back to R.

The front dart, as usually cut, would reach R just at the corner, resulting in rather a bad effect. To prevent this we transfer the dart to the middle between the two and draw it backward at the bottom, so that its front-seam will be very nearly parallel with that of the front edge.

We locate the pocket and let the dart reach only to its front end.

The width of the dart, which can be made as large as both darts for a close fit, may, however, be only ⅔ of both darts, the ⅓ left over being no detriment to a cutaway jacket—in fact, rather beneficial.

As point V will be sewn to the front of the pocket, so will point Z reach to Y, and therefore the side-seam will run from Y to X, less the amount of the width of the dart.

DIAGRAM 24.—This shows a cutaway, with 1 inch added over the center line at O and G, and cut away just on the front edge at H.

If we extend the two darts down to the bottom, the first one will cut directly in the curve of the front.

In order to obviate the bad effect this would produce, we cut out only one dart and start it backward beyond the curve, or in such a position that below the waist line it will very nearly run parallel with the side-seam.

This one dart may be the full size of the two required, or only the size of one; but in the latter case reduce on the side-seam, from D to E, ½ of a dart as shown.

COVERT JACKET.

DIAGRAM 25.—Use the regular block pattern of the size needed; lay it down on a sheet of paper, and mark along the shoulder, top of the back and back-seam, and extend the length as far down as required, as to F.

Then place the sidebody against the back, touching at points O and B, in the same closing position to the back as when drafted.

Follow the pattern along the side-seam, C to D, passing E and continuing to K.

DIAGRAM 26.—The front is produced by the block pattern, and marked along the edges, armhole, shoulder, neck and front.

One to one-and-a-half inch below the waist line lay the sidebody against the front, touching at point A in such a position that its upper part will be 1 inch away from the front at the armhole.

In this position it overlaps at the bottom, B.

Now shape from C to D, and regulate the length to D by the length of the back.

Sweep the curve at bottom from the shoulder point, flattening it toward the front.

For a single-breasted front add to the front edge 1 inch; for a fly front 1½ inch, and for a double-breasted front 2½ to 3 inches. Form the lapel to any desired shape.

The cut under the arm reaches only to A.

FROCK COAT.

DIAGRAM 27.—This pattern is drafted the same as explained for Diagram 7, 8 or 9, with the following exceptions:

Below the waist line add 1 to 1½ inch; form the lower edges of the body, and draw in the skirt as for a sack jacket, either wide or narrow at bottom. Establish the length to C and add 1 inch for plait on the side and the same on the center of back at E and C.

DIAGRAM 28.—A straight line is drawn as A to C, and the forepart is laid against it, touching at the fullest part of the breast and at the waist B.

Go upward from B ½ of the waist measure, which gives the black dot.

From the dot, as pivot, sweep from B over, giving the upper seam of the skirt (Diagram 29) to F.

Mark off the size from B to 1, which is to the first dart. Then place the piece between the darts, K, against 1, which will reach to 2. Then the width from O to S is placed from 2, fixing 3. Next, the first sidebody, M, is laid from 3 and reaches to 4.

Now we take the other sidebody and lay its lower seam from 4 along the curve, and this will reach to F.

Holding the sidebody in this position, draw a straight line from its upper point at G through F, which will bring it through and below H.

The next thing is to take the length of the back skirt and place it from B to C. By the dot at A, as pivot, we sweep the bottom of the skirt from C back to the line F H.

_This line is not fully extended, on account of lack of width on the plate._

DIAGRAM 30: THE LAPEL.—Mark along the edge of front of the forepart and across the bottom, V to W.

Establish the length, V to U, the same as forepart. Make the width at bottom ½ inch less than from the front edge to the edge of the first dart.

Make it 3½ inches wide across the breast, and at the top any width desired.

Lay the lapel in a closing position to B and breast (Diagram 28), and mark down the front edge of the skirt from D to E.

CUTAWAY FROCK JACKET.

DIAGRAMS 31 AND 32.

The body is drafted to measure in the regular way.

The back is extended down to the length needed, and the amount for the side plait and the turn-in added.

To make the skirt we first lay down the sidebody and draw along its lower edge from G to H, as shown on Diagram 32.

Lay a long rule stick at the top of the sidebody, point D, and touching the waist line at E, and draw a line along the edge from G to F.

Apply the length of the back skirt from G to obtain point F, and then draw a short right-angled line at the bottom.

Lay the second sidebody (E) against H. This will reach to J.

_In laying these pieces to get the width, they should be so closely connected that the spring below the natural waist line will be in the position as sewn up._

This must be carefully attended to, as it influences the curve of the seam of the skirt.

Next we place part O of the front from J to K also in a closing position.

Having marked K, lay the middle piece between the darts to K. This will go to N, and when the front Q is added will reach to L.

The line now will be G to H, J to K, and K to L. Curve the line of the skirt from K to M ¾ inch below L.

Now place the forepart in a closing position, L to M, and draw the curve of the skirt from M through W and X, to the shape most desirable.

DOUBLE-BREASTED RIDING JACKET.

DIAGRAM 33.

This is drafted like a sack jacket and extends down in the back and on the side length to 28 inches.

The darts are placed in the position they should occupy; the length in front is made 3 to 3½ inches longer than the natural waist, and the skirt is cut off from G at the last dart.

It is not necessary to enlarge the width of skirt; it should be made up just to the size of the hip.

The fronts are double-breasted as shown, and require a narrow turndown collar.

All the lines and points are closely cut to the system.

The lapel is cut on the same lines as those shown on Diagram 30.

SINGLE-BREASTED RIDING JACKET.

DIAGRAM 34.—This style is drafted the same as a waist pattern with the waist extended below the natural waist line from 1 to 2 inches, and either shaped as shown or made more pointed in front.

The skirt is cut separate and reaches only to the second dart, the front-seam of which is lengthened to agree with the width of the strap of the skirt; the front being also lengthened as represented by the broken lines.

This draft has three sidebodies, as it is desirable that the width between the seams should be narrow in order to better define the form. These sidebodies should each have about the same width at the waist line.

For a single-breasted front, add for lap on the button-hole side no more than ¾ inch, and about as much more for the button stand. If 3 or more hooks and eyes are sewn to the center line inside it will relieve the strain on the buttons.

It can be made to button up with a standing collar, or with a short roll and turnover collar.

THE SKIRT.

DIAGRAM 35.—Draw a straight line as O B.

From O down to A is ¼ of the waist, which for a 24 waist is 6 inches.

From O as pivot, sweep a circle from A toward H.

Take the sidebody and lay it with its lower point at A, and so that the waist line will rest on the line at 4.

In this position the lower edge will not rest on the sweep, but rise above it at 1.

Now draw along it from A to 1.