Chapter II: Part 2

Take the next sidebody, close it to 1, and let the forward point rest on the sweep point 2.

Draw a line at a right angle from O to E, and from D the point on the circle to E will be 1 inch.

Now from 2 through E draw the curve to F.

From 2 to 3 lay the third sidebody to obtain the width, and then place the part of the front from K to S from 3, reaching to F.

F to the outside edge, Z, is 1½ inch.

From 2 to Y is the same.

The bottom, B to C, is 2½ inches, and is shaped past X to C like the diagram.

A side plait is added to A and B of the same width as that on the back.

After all is drawn out, the upper seam of the skirt is the line from A to 1, 2, 3 and F.

DIAGRAM 36.—The back is regular down to the waist, where it is usually made very narrow—about 1 inch on line A. The skirt, which is then added to C, is never more than 8 nor less than 6 inches long from B to C.

NOTE.—The sleeve head for these garments is never so large as for
other jackets, but is held small or with only a small rise to cause a
puff, and the wrist is made small to close with buttons. When a sleeve
is made to close at the wrist, it necessitates buttons, and for the
prevailing style it is necessary to make the upper sleeve narrower at
wrist, so that the buttons shall be on top of the wrist, as shown on
Diagram 44.

SHIRT WAISTS.

THE FOREPART.

DIAGRAM 37.—First use a waist pattern either to measure or proportions.

Draw a straight line from O to R, and lay the pattern down against it at breast and waist, as represented by the broken lines.

Mark along the armhole and lay the first sidebody in a closing position to the front at armhole and overlapping just 1 inch below the waist.

Draw a line along its side to W.

Now place in front of O and R 6 to 10 inches, according to the amount of fullness desired to be gathered in, as to P and S.

Curve the line on top of shoulder ½ inch above it, and draw the line P S.

The distance P V must be gathered in to that of O V, and when finished the pattern is laid against the armhole and the neck cut by it.

A yoke of lining can also be cut of the shape at the shoulder and neck, and the material gathered on to it.

THE BACK.

DIAGRAM 38.—On a straight line like O E lay the back center-seam.

Then place the sidebody close to the back at the top and 1½ inch from it at the waist, as shown.

Now mark along the armhole from K to G, and along the side from G to L and N.

Even with the top of back draw a line to C.

From O to C place the same amount added to the front from O to P, and draw a straight line to F.

Apply the length, which is generally 21 inches, from O to E and shape the bottom.

Raise above shoulder at B ½ inch.

When the length has been fixed at N, apply the length from G to N to the front, to finish the bottom.

SHIRT WAIST WITH YOKE.

THE BACK.

DIAGRAM 39.—Take the waist and mark along the armhole from T, along the shoulder top of the back, and down the back to B more or less low, as may be desired.

This will be the yoke pattern, and must be cut out of another sheet of paper.

Then draw a line along the back-seam from O to E and D.

Lay the sidebody close to the back at T and within 1½ inch of it at K.

Mark around it from T to J, J to H and G, and apply the length from O to D for the bottom.

Square lines from B to C and from D to F.

Place 6 to 8 inches from B to C and D to F, and draw the line C F.

From C curve above B 2 inches to T.

THE FOREPART.

DIAGRAM 40.—Lay the forepart against a straight line, as R N.

Point S is opposite point T on the back, when J is laid close to the top of the sidebody.

From S to P curve the line for the yoke, which will be the shape of the shoulder and this line.

The sidebody is laid close against the front at the armhole and overlaps 1 inch below the waist line. Mark along the side-seam to L and M.

Apply the length of the back to the front, and curve from M forward.

From P to Q place the same amount as on the back, and the same from N to O; now draw the straight line O Q.

From S to Q curve the upper part 2 inches above P to R.

The material between S and Q is gathered into the distance P S, and that of the back into T B.

A band is usually sewn inside the waist, to which the waist amount is gathered, but sometimes the waist is left loose and worn inside of a skirt, the back of which holds it close.

THE PLAIN SLEEVE.

When the waist, basque or jacket is drafted, measure the armhole all around, being careful to obtain the actual circumference.

By the size obtained we draft the sleeve head.

We then require the length to the wrist, the elbow and wrist size.

As an example, we shall use the following measures:

Armhole, 16.
Length of sleeve under arm, 16½.
Width at elbow, 12.
Width at wrist, 10.

DIAGRAM 41.—Commence by drawing lines O C and O J at right angles.

O to A is ⅓ armhole, 5⅜ inches.

O to J is ½ armhole, 8 inches.

Draw a line down from J to F, and across from A to G.

From A to C is the length, 16½ inches.

B is in the middle between A and C.

C over to D is ½ wrist size and ½ inch.

From D to E is 1¾ inch.

Connect E with F by a straight line.

Point H is in the middle between O and J.

Point I is in the middle between J and H.

DIAGRAM 42.—G up to K is ¼ armhole, 4 inches.

Now, with a pair of compasses, sweep from K by H toward P, and from H by K. This gives point P, where both sweeps cross.

Now use P as pivot and sweep from K to S. This curve will touch the upper line at H and give a suitable round for the sleeve head.

Raise above A to R ½ inch, and with a slight curve connect with the sweep as shown.

Draw a short line from K to line I, which gives N, and make L 2 inches from A.

Shape the under-arm scye from R to the line at L and up to N, curving above and below a straight line from N to L, as represented.

From F forward to M is ½ of elbow width.

Draw straight lines M to A and C, and curve inside of these as shown.

DIAGRAM 43.—Work out the outlines as follows:

Shape from K to G, past F, clearing it by ½ inch, and thence with an easy curve to E at bottom. Curve the edge of cuff from C to E.

Point 9 is ½ inch back from E, and should be straight across from E. Curve from C to 9.

Draw the elbow-seam of the under part from N to 1 straight down, and thence to Q and 9, making Q ½ inch inside of the straight line at F.

The inside-seam of the under side follows that of the upper sleeve from A through T to C.

This finishes the plain sleeve.

CHANGES FROM THE PLAIN SLEEVE.

DIAGRAM 44.—When the shoulders are drafted narrower than given by the system proper, it is necessary to add to the sleeve top the amount the width of the shoulder has been reduced; this amount, which may be ½ to 1 inch, must be added above 2 to 3, and the curve drawn as shown from 1 through 3 to 4.

The under sleeve requires no change.

It is sometimes desirable, when a vent with buttons is required, as on close wrists for riding jackets or dresses, to reduce the width of top at wrist 1 inch, with the intention of having the button show more forward on the hand.

With the view of effecting this, go in from P on the upper sleeve 1 inch to S, and draw the elbow-seam from 6 to S.

Then draw the under sleeve from 5 at elbow to P, and add a stand for the buttons.

DIAGRAM 45.—It is often desirable to change the seams in order that they shall lie more under the arm, or sew into the sidebody instead of the back.

To accomplish this, draw a line across on the ordinary sleeve, R to X, and fix a point in the middle Q.

Point A, the dot, is point F on Diagram 41.

Go down from Q to O ¾ or 1 inch, and sweep from O over toward S and Y, pivoting at A.

Continue the sleeve head curve from R to Y, and from where it crosses the sweep at Y redraw the back-seam to the elbow near A.

As the width of the upper sleeve has been increased, we take the distance R Y and reduce the seam from X to S that amount, and from this point draw the under sleeve to the elbow.

From the front line at 9 fix a point 1 inch on the under sleeve at V. Now, pivoting at T, sweep from 9 to V U, which makes the length from T to U the same as from T to V.

Now draw the inside-seams from V to T and U to the same place, U being also 1 inch from 9. Then curve from P to U.

DIAGRAM 46.—This is made the same as the last one, only there is more space between 6 and 5.

Establish A, 1½ to 2 inches below F, and make the sweep by O at elbow.

Remodel the sleeve head from E to 5 by extending the curve of the upper part, and from where it crosses the sweep draw the elbow-seam.

Take off what has been added—E to 5—from the under sleeve—D to 4—and from 4 draw to 2.

The same amount may be taken off on the inside as on Diagram 45, if so desired, or it may be left as shown, without any change.

LARGE SLEEVE HEAD.

DIAGRAM 47.

Take a regularly cut sleeve, and on this mark a line through the center, O A, and also mark the elbow line.

Lay it down on a sheet of paper and mark along it from the elbow down, H to 10 and G to T, and across from T to 10.

_The upper part is shown by P and S._

From S by H sweep to F.

From P by G sweep to R.

Draw a line straight across the top of sleeve head—each way from A—at right angles with line O A.

A to C is 2½ inches, and C to D is the same.

Go over from A to N 3 inches, and the same from A to B, and square up from these points.

Hold the sleeve at H and swing it over at top till point A will rest on line B 7, and when in this position draw along its edge from F to H and F to 9.

Shape the top from 9 upward in a nearly straight line to E, and from thence through 8 to D as represented.

_Points 8 and E are not established, except by the run of this curve, which must be directed by the eye._

Put the pattern in the first position, and holding it at G move it over till A rests on line N; then mark the elbow line, R to G.

To obtain the back curve we place the distance from the line at 7 to 8 over from 6 to fix 5, and that of B to E over from N to get 3. Through these points shape the sleeve head.

This large sleeve is shown by the solid black lines R, D, E and F, H, 10 and R, G and T.

The under sleeve is not changed.

This gives a good, fairly full sleeve; but if one is wanted quite full, take the one just made, lay it down on paper, and proceed as follows:

Place the under sleeve against the upper at the wrist, T, and closing about 2 inches below the elbow, as shown on the diagram.

It will overlap a trifle at M, but this is of no consequence. The object is to keep the elbow width nearly the same and not change the wrist in size.

In this position we gain all the distance between R and 2, which is the amount it increases in size.

Now draw along the front-seam F to 10, up from F to D, and from D curve past 4 to 2 in such a shape that the line will have a curve between 4 and D similar to that between D and 9.

This sleeve has no back-seam, as its outer edge is the one shown on the diagram Z, 2, D, F, 10 and G.

In sewing it into the armhole it requires a heavy box-plait on the center of top at Y and a series of side plaits on each side of this point until it has been reduced to the size of the armhole.

A VERY FULL SLEEVE.

DIAGRAM 48.

This sleeve can be easily held as close from the elbow down as an ordinary sleeve, as follows:

Take any sleeve pattern—upper and lower parts—and draw a straight center line from F to G, to which mark line Y X at right angles.

Lay the upper and the under sleeve with the elbow at H, so that they will be separated at G 1½ inch. _This is correct when the wrist of the sleeve used is small, but when of medium size the distance should be only 1 inch._

Mark along the edges of the patterns used from X and Y down.

Using X as pivot sweep over from point R, which will go to 2.

_According to the size wanted, or the volume of fullness in the upper part, we add on the sweep from R to 2 either 3 inches for medium or 4 for an extra large sleeve._ Then holding the pattern used at X, swing it over until point R reaches 2, and then follow along its inside edge from 2 to X for the seam.

By Y on the lower sleeve sweep from O toward point 3 from Q.

Now add from Q to 3 on the sweep the same amount as has been added on the upper sleeve from R to 2, which gives point 3; and pivoting at Y, swing the inside sleeve forward to 3, and shape the in-seam from 3 to Y.

Draw a straight line from 2 to 3; this gives us point P.

P to O is 4 inches. Making O the pivot, sweep the upper curve from 6, passing F and 4 and reaching 5.

As we must retain some semblance of an under arm, we reduce this sweep from 4 to 3 by going inside of 5 about 1½ inch.

This sleeve closes with buttons and has a strip 1¼ inch wide sewed on the under sleeve to act as a button stand.

It may sometimes be advisable to have the buttons run toward the top of wrist. In such a case, whatever is placed forward is added to the under part, as shown.

SLEEVE FOR SHIRT WAISTS.

DIAGRAM 49.—This style of sleeve is worn with shirt waists, dresses and wash fabrics.

Sometimes the sleeve head is plain or with only a slight fullness, but it may have a large and full sleeve head.

In case it is to be plain or to have only a slight fullness, use an ordinary sleeve pattern and lay the top and undersides together at the elbow O, and closing at top P, or separated only 2 or 3 inches for some little fullness.

In this position it is open at the bottom, V to Z.

The lower curve is drawn from T through Z and V to U, as illustrated.

There is no elbow-seam, as the sleeve is cut in one piece.

A modification of this sleeve is to gather it in from 1 to 2, close to the arm, which gives a loose sleeve above these points and a ruffle effect at the bottom.

This sleeve can be cut for a puff effect by using the top of a large sleeve such as has been shown.

DRESS SLEEVES.

DIAGRAMS 50 AND 51.—On low-neck dress waists these sleeves are generally made short. Some reach only a few inches below the armhole and some to the elbow.

The manner of cutting is very simple.

Take a sleeve pattern and lay the upper against the lower part on the back-seams, as shown on these diagrams, and draw along the top and on the side.

Fix whatever length is wanted and cut across from W to X (Diagram 50), curving somewhat above a straight line at Y.

Another style is to curve, as shown by Diagram 51, from B to C and A.

Yet another style is, curve from C up to the middle of sleeve at U, and from U to A. This style is, however, made a little wider at U, so as to allow these two points to overlap about 1 inch.

SINGLE-BREASTED VESTS.

DIAGRAM 52.

The measures by which the diagram on the opposite page were produced are as follows:

Back length, 15.
Front length, 18¼.
Blade, 10.
Height under arm, 7½.
Breast, 36.
Waist, 25.
Length of front, 23.

The method of delineating is the same as for a waist pattern in the main points.

Square the lines O C and O F. O to 1 is ¾ inch. Measure from 1 to B, the back length 15. B to A is the height under arm, 7½. From both points draw lines across.

B to D is ¹⁄₁₂ breast. Draw the back line from 1 through D. From this line (point A1) to K is the blade measure, 10 inches.

This is ⅔ of a 30 size, as shown by the number 15 on the square.

Take ¼ of this, which is 3¾, and place it from K to L.

Draw a line up and down from K and one up from L.

Divide the distance L to top line in halves, which locates the star.

Point Y is in the middle between the star and the top line. O to 2 is ⅛ of 15.

From 2 to Z, which is in the middle between the star and Y, draw a line.

Curve the armhole from X to 12.

A1 to G is one-half of the full breast, 18 inches.

In the middle between G and K locate point P, from which point a line is drawn up to E. E to F is ⅙ breast, 3 inches.

From F through G draw a straight front line. F to N is ⅙ breast, 3 inches.

Apply the front length from 1 inch in front of J at waist up to line E, less the width of top of back, and locate E by the measure, whether it goes above or below the top line. In this case it falls on the top line.

From E to Y draw a line and place the distance 2 X of the back from E to locate 13, and finish the armhole. Line K to 00 is the same distance as from Z to X.

Divide the distance G K into three parts, giving points S and T. From S go back ½ inch to U. Also divide the distance from the front waist line at H to the side at J into 3 parts, to locate the points Q and R.

Now from U through Q draw a straight line, and draw another from T through R. Measure the distance on the waist line from D to H, which will be found to be 18 inches. Deduct 1 inch from this, leaving 17.

Width, 17.
½ waist, 12½.
————————
Difference, 4½.

This difference is to govern the darts, each of which will therefore require a width of 2⅛ inches.

Place this 2⅛ inches equally on each side of Q to 4 and 5, and of R to 6 and 7.

From the point V, which is about ⅓ way from U to Q, draw the dart lines through 4 and 5, and let the line below 4 to A be straight down, and that from 5 to B have only a slight spring from a straight line.

Draw in the seams from W through 6 and 7, holding the line from 6 to C straight, and giving that from 7 to D a little spring—say about 1 inch forward from a line drawn down at right angles with the waist line.

Divide the distance between A1 on the back and G, which gives point 12.

From D at back of waist place ½ of the waist measure and 1 inch to point 9.

From the front at H to 4, 5, 6 and 7 to 8 place ¼ of the waist less 1 inch.

Then draw in the under-arm seams from 12 through 8 and 9, adding a little spring below the waist line to E and F.

Apply the length from E to M at the bottom, which for this draft is 23 inches.

From M draw a straight line parallel with the waist line to T.

In the middle between T and 8 mark a point, which is E, and from E to M draw a straight line.

Follow this line from E to D, and a trifle above it locate C; draw to B, and then even across from B will be A. From this point draw down to the line M.

Reduce the width of shoulder from X to 3, 1 to 1½ inch, for small sizes 1 inch, but for larger sizes 1½ inch is preferable. The same must be reduced on the front shoulder from 13 to 14. The form from E to N is for a front to button up to the neck, and usually has a standing collar.

If, however, it is desired to have an open front, measure from E down the front line to point 20, the opening wanted, which may be 10, 12 or 14 inches, always remembering that the width of the top of the back must be subtracted.

Beyond G go out ½ inch, and then curve the front edge as shown.

Even with point E at the lower part of the vest draw a line across, which gives the bottom of the back—the line F to G.

As the vest is generally worn over a corset, it would be too large around the waist if cut by the measure taken over a dress, so we must reduce the size at the waist by inserting a V from 16 to 15, which will be ½ inch in width.

DIAGRAM 53.—After following the explanations given for Diagram 52, we place above point E to 1 the width of the top of the back, which is 2 to O on the preceding diagram.

Having located the point to which we want the opening to extend—at G for instance—draw a straight line from G to the shoulder point E.

From just in front of the line squared up from E, start to curve the outer edge, drawing it so that it will be a trifle inside of the line at 4 and ending at G.

Go back from E ½ inch, make the distance 1 to 2 the same as 3 and E, and draw out the shape of the collar as shown. The collar can then be traced out on a separate piece of paper.

All the points on this diagram are drawn in the same way as those on the foregoing, but for this vest we reduce the front by one dart only.

In drafting, however, it is best to first draw both darts. Then knowing the amount which must be taken out, we can so modify it that it will be right with one dart.

While we cannot cut out the total amount of the two darts in one, we can reduce the size by one dart by making its width from R to S ⅓ less than the full amount of the two darts, and we can then reduce to the size required under the arm at Y.

The position of the dart in the middle between the two original darts has already been so clearly explained and illustrated that it is not necessary to go over it again.

DOUBLE-BREASTED VESTS.

DIAGRAM 54.—When the draft has been drawn to the front edge, as shown on Diagram 52, add over the front edge for a double-breasted at B 1¾ to 2 inches, and at A 2½ to 3 inches, depending on the amount of lap-over you wish.

As the button-holes must always be ¾ inch from the edge, it will be necessary to take the distance from the end of the button-holes to the center line, and place this back from the center of the front to locate the place for the buttons.

On Diagram 53 we have shown the manner of arranging the collar on a flat surface. In the case of double-breasted fronts the same method can be followed by drawing the break line from the shoulder point to the point of opening at A wherever this may be desired.

Add above O to 1 the width of the top of the back, and draw the break line with some curve below O, as shown by the dotted line.

Next shape the collar as shown by the dotted line, or in any other form that may suggest itself.

In drafting a collar by what may be called the old method, make the break line straight from O to A, but instead of following this as for a flat collar, we commence at O and curve the seam-edge by C and to about 1 inch above A; we then extend from O to 2 the width of back, and draw the stand from D through C, along the curve to A, after which we shape the outer edge from 1 to A, according to taste or style.

The two darts inserted in this forepart should always be put into vests, the material of which is hard to make; but on soft goods one dart, as shown on Diagram 55, will answer as well.

DIAGRAM 55.—On this diagram we have a change, which is generally desirable, as the seam between the forepart and the lapel gives the garment a close fit without the aid of extra work in shrinking in the edge.

In cutting the lapel, follow the same rule as that used in drafting the double-breasted jacket, Diagram 28.

Trace along the front edge of the forepart from E to B, and keep the same shape from B to J.

Make the width from B to J 1½ to 2 inches, and across at D 2½ to 3 inches, and form the edge from J to D.

Lay it over as on the diagram, touching at B and E, and draft the collar the same as shown on Diagram 54.

COLLARS.

DIAGRAM 56.—In cutting collars, the predominant idea must be to design them for the purpose for which they are intended.

The different styles illustrated on the plate on the opposite page will enable any one to draft whatever style may be desired.

Let us first draft Diagram 56. This is a collar that clings close to the neck on the upper edge, and is one that is preferred above all others for some dress waists.

To draft it we draw lines O 1 and O 4.

From O to 1 is ½ of the neck size, and from O to 4 the width we prefer, which may be 2 to 3 inches.

From 1 to 2 place the same width as O to 4 and curve the edge, which sews on the neck ½ inch below the straight line O 1, and retreat the front from 2 to 3 about ½ to ¾ inch.

DIAGRAM 57.—This collar is drawn on square lines by placing from O to 1 the size of neck, and adding whatever width is needed above O to 4.

This collar will not cling to the neck as close as that of Diagram 56.

DIAGRAM 58.—This form will not cling to the neck on the upper edge, because of the curve from 3 to 4.

In drafting it draw the lines C 2 and C 4.

From C go up to O 1 inch, and form the neck line from O to 2 as shown.

Add the width to 4 and 3 and finish as represented.

DIAGRAM 59.—With the view of giving more curve to the upper edge and therefore more flare to it, we are compelled to make the distance A to B 2½ inches.

Apply the size of the neck from A to D, the width from B to C, and finish as shown on the diagram.

DIAGRAM 60.—This collar is similar to that of Diagram 59, and it is the most useful of all collars, as it adapts itself not only to a standing form, but is equally as good to turn down for a short roll front. The manner of construction is exactly the same as explained for Diagram 59.

DIAGRAM 61.—When we desire to perfect the collar which is ordinarily termed “The Medeciè,” we are compelled to raise above point A to B 3 inches.

Applying the size of neck from A to D, curving the neck-seam from B to D, and adding the width B to C and D to E will finish this style.

DIAGRAM 62.—This is the extremest plain style that it is possible to make for a collar that will stand up and that can also be turned down.

This is also called “The Medeciè,” and may be curved in front as shown on this diagram, or shaped as shown on Diagram 61; that is, straight up in the front.

DIAGRAM 63.—This represents an ordinary turndown collar for a single-breasted, three-button cutaway, sack or frock.

First decide on the distance that it may be wished to turn, say 4½ inches below the top at 7, marked on the diagram as point W.

From the side at neck, 5, to the break line at point A is ¾ inch; now draw a straight line from W through A to 2.

From 2 to 6 is 1 inch, and 2 to the outside edge is 1¼ to 1½ inch.

Shape from 6 to 5 and follow the neck to the front at 7. The width, 7 to 8, is 1¾ inch.

DIAGRAM 64.—Proceed the same as just explained to A, then from A curve the break line toward 3, which is 1 inch below point 2.

The stand is then added to 4, and the balance finished as shown.

The object in thus curving the lines is to obtain a longer edge line which will turn smoother when made wide.

DIAGRAM 65.—This sailor-collar is drafted by the back and front shoulder, which are laid in a closing position.

Place point 2 about ¾ inch above the top of the back, curve the neck of the collar from 2 to 6 at the side of the neck, and then continue with a slight curve to 7, or as low as desired.

The distance from the top of back to 3 is decided by the depth wanted, and the width reaches to the armhole. It may be shaped as shown here, or as represented on Diagram 69 or 70.

DIAGRAM 66.—Shows a circular collar, which is drafted by the size of the neck.

First measure the neck of the pattern cut.

This we shall suppose to be 15 inches.

Take of this ⅓, 5 inches, and place it from 4 to 3. Mark a point in the center. By this point sweep the circle 4, 5, 6, 7 and 3.

Add from 4 to C the depth wanted, which may extend partly over the sleeve.

When the collar is wanted straight down, flat on the back, draw the center-seam on line 4 to C; but when it is wanted to flare, add 1 inch beyond C and curve the seam from 4.

The front edge can be cut from 3 to B, or as represented.

This collar, if cut in one piece, will stand straight out over the shoulder; but when it must have a flare, cut through at 6 to A, 7 to 2, and 5 to 1, and take out a trifle on each side of a straight line as shown.

If still more flare is wanted on the outer edge, then instead of cutting out, we add at 1, A and 2, overlapping 1 inch at each point, and thus increasing the length of the outer edge.

The pieces having been cut can have the collar added, and each piece will appear like Diagram 67. The lower part is the cape part proper, which goes over the shoulder; the upper added part is the standing collar, with a shape like the piece 3 to 4, 8 to 7, the curves being alike, or similar to the shape of the cape.

DIAGRAM 68.—The front piece of the cape and collar is usually curved back as from 3 to 1, but the line 4 to 1 is shaped by the line 5 to 4.

BROAD COLLARS.

DIAGRAM 69.—Lay the back and forepart together on the shoulder, and draw a line from top of back, A, to front, D.

Place the circled point half-way between A and D, and, pivoting at that point, draw a circle from the side of the neck, B, to reach to F.

From F draw a line parallel with line A D, as to G, making the width, F G, to fancy.

From the circled dot sweep the outer edge from G to H, form the balance by the neck and shape the lapel.

DIAGRAM 70.—This collar is very similar to the foregoing, but has more fullness cast over the shoulder. The curve is raised ½ inch above the circle at F, and the line to G is placed 2 inches further forward. The shape is then drafted by circling from G to H.

The front of the neck can be dropped at D as shown, with a view to opening it.

FULL ROUND COLLAR.

DIAGRAM 71.—Make the small circle by the diameter of the neck; draw a straight line through its center; make B to C the length required, and sweep the outer circle, pivoting at the dot.

This collar may be drawn pointed in the back to D and with two points in front at E and F, as represented.

THREE-QUARTER CAPE.

DIAGRAM 72.—Lay the back against a straight line at A and 1½ inch from it at D.

Next lay the shoulder of the front ½ inch from that of the back.

Now draw along the neck from A to B and E, and down in front E to F.

Mark a straight line from A to E, and in the middle place the dot.

Place the length wanted from A to D, and sweep the bottom by the dot as pivot.

PLAIN CAPE.

DIAGRAM 73.—Lay the back against a straight line as shown, mark along the top and add to the shoulder, E to D, ½ inch. From D as pivot cast a short sweep, E to F.

Now lay the front against D, the shoulder point resting on the sweep; open so far that the straight front edge of the forepart will be at a right angle with the back line, and then draw line G H to the dot.

Apply the length, A to C, and from the circled dot at the corner sweep the bottom.

WRAP-SHAPED CAPE.

DIAGRAM 74.—This cape is drafted in the same way on the shoulder as the plain cape, but it has a wrap shape, and, with the view of giving the back a closer fit to the figure, it is curved at B.

The bottom is curved from G, and the front reaches down 10 or 20 inches in a tab, either straight or curved back. Both styles are represented. For finish, apply lace or fur to the edge and add a high collar.

THE ULSTER.

DIAGRAM 75.—Commence to draft as for a jacket and apply the length, which goes to the floor and ranges from 52 to 56 inches.

Make the width of the back at the natural waist 2 or 2½ inches, and extend the back line 1 to 1½ inch over the construction line at D.

When the straight line of the sidebody from 6 through 5 has been drawn, the skirt-seam can follow it for a full width skirt; but when a close skirt is preferred, reduce from D to R 2 inches and curve the seam from the waist down.

Locate the shoulder and armhole to measure; draw in two darts and separate the sidebodies.

The central lines, E to L and F to M, must reach down to the bottom.

Having figured out the amount of hip room needed, add it between U and V, and W and X, and run the seams equally on each side from the center line.

Transfer the two darts into one in the middle to be the size of one dart; take out 1 inch at side at 1, and reduce a trifle at V to hold a good curve.

The line from I to K is squared down by the waist line, but for such a long garment as this we draw another for the front from I to 1 inch forward of K. Add 2½ to 3 inches beyond the front-center line for a double-breasted front.

A broad collar like that shown on the collar plate, or a standing one, may be used.

Add full seams to this garment and ample cuffs to the sleeves, but do not make the latter quite so full at the top as for a jacket.

An opening may be left in the center of the back from C down.

DRESS SKIRTS.

DIAGRAM 76.

In drafting skirts the proportions of waist and hip should be carefully considered, for the darts that are taken out of the top of the skirt must be in accordance with the difference between the two sizes.

It is never necessary for an average form—one from 15 to 20 inches more in the hips than in the waist—to cut the darts more than 1 inch wide. In fact, it is advisable on forms that are flat in front to draw them ¾ inch and make the side darts which are over the prominent part of the hip 1 inch.

If there is more difference than 20 inches, then these darts must reach 1¼ inch at side. If the skirt is for a large person, who is corpulent, the darts both in front and at the side must be fully 1 inch wide.

In any case the system, as we lay it down, conforms to all shapes, and as will be seen, can be made to adapt itself to any size or style.

The seams can be located to suit the width of material, as we shall explain.

TO DRAFT.

First draw the line from O to B and C.

We will take for the waist measure 24, for the hip 40, and for the front length 40 inches.

Measure down from O to B, the waist, 24, and from B to C, the front length, 40.

Use point O as a pivot and sweep by it from B to H, and pivoting at the same point, sweep from C to define the bottom.

As the distance O C is longer than any tape measure, stick an awl into the table at O, tie a string to it long enough to reach to C, and then cast the sweep.

Place from B to 1 at the dart ¼ of waist, 3 inches. From 1 to 2—width of dart—is 1 inch. From 2 to 3 is ¼ waist, and from 3 to 0—width of dart—is 1 inch. 0 to 4 is ¼ waist. _This gives 9 inches from B._

From 4 to 5 we place 1¼ inch for the hip dart.

In the middle of each dart fix a point as D, E and F, and through these points from point O draw straight lines to the bottom.

Curve the darts 4½ inches down, as shown.

At a right angle with the line O F draw a line from F to G and place from 5 to G, 9 inches, which will be ample to make up the measure of waist and leave something for plaits.

At a right angle with the line 5 G draw a line down to U—the dotted line.

This line defines the closest skirt that can be made, but as it only hangs straight down, more room around the bottom will give it a better expression. We therefore add from U to K 12 inches and draw the line G K.

In gathering the size into the waist-band from G to 5, point G will be a trifle low to reach 5, so we raise the upper line 1 inch above G, and draw from 5 to this point, which is between G and 6.

This skirt hangs straight down all around except the plaiting formed in the back by the addition U to K.

To produce a skirt that will be very full, or will require a considerable amount of plaiting in the back, proceed as follows:

Locate point A in the middle between O and B, and draw a right-angled line which will reach L.

For this style the upper waist curve from F backward must be on the curve from 6 to 5.

The bottom remains the same as that of the first skirt. This is usually called the “Bell Skirt.”

To give a skirt an extreme amount of fullness in the back, add from L to M 10 inches or more, and draw a line from A to M. The upper edge remains at H, but the lower is made 1½ to 2 inches longer at N, as shown.

The greater or lesser amount of fullness added produces the several different styles now made, the one just explained being called the “Umbrella.”

On silks seams will have to be drawn on lines D, E and F, but no seam is put in from B to C. On woolen goods, where the width will permit, the first seam is on E line, and there is none at F. The darts must be cut in on all skirts.

The piece 3 and 4 is cut from cloth opened.

The very fullest may need a seam on the dotted diagonal line back of K.

THE FULL DRESS SKIRT.

DIAGRAM 77.

Draft as explained for Diagram 76, with the following exceptions:

Let the width X E be ⅓ waist.

Draw all the lines from O down. As this skirt is always made from narrow material it is, therefore, cut through the line.

From E to G add 12 to 18 inches, according to the width of plaiting desired.

This side gore, marked 5, is drawn with a curve from L to K.

Point L is ⅓ of the whole length from the waist down.

The train effect which we desire to produce requires that point K shall curve beyond the straight line Y from 12 to 20 inches, according to the train desired, and in order that it may fall on the floor ½ of the above, or 6 to 10 inches, is added to the length at K, below the first circle 6.

This edge must start from Z.

As the length of the line E L K increases, we are obliged to increase the length of the line of the back breadth, E L Y, to correspond, for the line E L K sews into the line E L Y.

In laying the lower edges together the sweep from Y to J must follow that of Z to K.

When point G is established draw a line through it from O to reach J.

The greater the curve from L to K the more the skirt will sweep back, but more length must be added at K and on the back piece.

RIDING SKIRT.

THE FRONT.

DIAGRAM 78.—This diagram is laid out to and must be enlarged by inches. Draw lines O 4 and O G.

O to 1 is 5 inches.

From 1 to 4, the side length, is 43 inches.

From 1 to 2 is 3 inches.

O to A is 10 inches.

A to B is 3¾ inches.

B to C is ¾ inch.

C to D is 10¼ inches.

D to E is 5¼ inches.

E to F is 3½ inches.

F to G is 4½ inches.

From all of these points draw right-angled lines.

A to H is 6½ inches.

B to I is 4 inches.

C to J is 2 inches.

D to K is 7 inches.

E to L is 3¼ inches.

E to M is 13 inches.

F to N is 4½ inches.

G to P is 9 inches.

From 4 to 5 is 23½ inches.

From 4 to U is 48 inches.

U to T is 3 inches.

Draw a straight line P to T.

P to R is 15 inches.

R to S is 1¾ inch.

_The line H 5 is the center of the front, and from 2 to 4 is the left side._

At 3 there is a cut, 7 inches long, which is made up to button.

Point M is the top of the knee.

This diagram must be cut on the right side of the goods.

THE BACK.

DIAGRAM 79.—Draw the lines O F and O E.

O to A is 2¾ inches.

A to B is 4¼ inches.

B to C is 1½ inch.

C to D is 6¼ inches.

J to E is the same length as from 2 to 4 on Diagram 78.

O to F is 15 inches.

A to G is 12 inches.

B to H is 7 inches.

C to J is 1¼ inch.

D to K is 18 inches.

E, across the bottom, to P is 39 inches.

P down to lower edge is 1¼ inch.

Up from P to X is the same length as T to P on the front.

X to Q is 3½ inches.

X to L is 3 inches.

L to M is 1¾ inch.

M to N is 2¼ inches.

Q to R is 9½ inches.

X to S is 3 inches.

L to T is 7¼ inches.

T to U is 2½ inches.

M to V is 12¾ inches.

N to W is 8 inches.

Now form the outlines.

_V W is under the knee, K is the seat, and the side J E is the left side._

Sew up U T and then V S to R.

F to P will now sew to C P T of the front.

Sometimes a band is sewn to the waist, but generally the waist is only taped.

TROUSERS.

DIAGRAM 80.

THE FOREPART.—The measures are as follows: Rise 10, Side length 30, Waist 25, Seat 40, Knee 18 and Bottom 17.

Draw line A E, and place from A to C the rise 10 inches.

A to E is the outside length from the waist to the heel.

D is half-way between C and E.

Draw the cross lines.

C to O is ⅓ seat, and O to J is the same.

In the middle between O and J is F.

Square up from F.

N to Z is ½ and ⅛ waist, and the ⅛ is to be taken out as a V between T and U.

Curve from Z to C.

In the middle between A and C draw line B.

E to 5 is ⅙ seat.

Draw the center line from O to 5.

The bottom 6 to L is 7½ inches.

G to 1 is ¼ knee, 4½ inches, and G to 2 is the same.

Connect J with 1 and 1 with L and finish the side-seam.

THE BACK-PART.—J to K is 1¼ inch.

From 6 to 4 is ½ bottom and ½ inch, and L to outside-seam is the same.

Point 3 is ½ inch from 1, and D is ½ inch from 2.

Draw a line from C to I and square up from I to M by point C.

T to M is ¼ seat.

M to Q is ¼ waist plus ⅛ and 2 inches for seams. The ⅛ is to govern the width of the V at X Y.

B to R is 3½ inches.

Shape the outlines.

The opening is on the side.

In measuring let the lady sit in a chair and take the length from the waist to the chair. Then ask her to stand and take the outside length to the heel.

The waist and seat sizes are taken close.

BREECHES.

DIAGRAM 81.

The measures are the same as for Diagram 80.

In drafting the rise is the same and the sizes and divisions are placed in the same manner as already explained to obtain the points.

Go down from O to N, an average of 7 inches.

From N to dot is 1 inch.

Draw a line from O through the unlettered dot.

O to G is 14; to H 16, and to the bottom I, is 20 inches.

From 1 to F is 2 inches.

F to M is 7 inches.

G to D is 3½ inches.

G to K is 4 inches.

F to 4 is 2 inches.

The back-seams at knee are ½ inch outside of the front-seams.

The seat line is drawn as before at a right angle with S C; point W is located ¼ waist above Q, and the waist size is applied from W to Z as already explained.

The outlines are now drawn as shown.

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TRANSCRIBER’S NOTES

● Fixed typos; non-standard spelling and dialect retained. ● Enclosed italics font in _underscores_.