Chapter I: Front Matter

THE
LAND OF THE BEY.

BEING IMPRESSIONS OF
TUNIS UNDER THE FRENCH.

BY
T. WEMYSS REID,
AUTHOR OF “CHARLOTTE BRONTË: A MONOGRAPH,” ETC.

London:
SAMPSON LOW, MARSTON, SEARLE, & RIVINGTON,
CROWN BUILDINGS, 188, FLEET STREET.
1882.

[_All rights reserved._]

LONDON:
PRINTED BY GILBERT AND RIVINGTON, LIMITED,
ST. JOHN’S SQUARE.

CONTENTS.

* * * * *

CHAPTER I.

HOW I ATE BOUILLABAISSE AT MARSEILLES.

PAGE A mad holiday scheme — Prophecies of evil — Paris after rain — In the “Rapide” — Marseilles — A dish of Bouillabaisse, and a disillusionment 1

CHAPTER II.

ON BOARD THE “CHARLES QUINT.”

A noble ship — Fellow-passengers — The vivandière — Husbands and wives — A defect in the ship’s arrangements — “Why is an Englishman never sea-sick?” — Bone — Hair-cutting made easy — Colonel Allegro — The vivandière distinguishes herself — A sudden change 18

CHAPTER III.

A WHITE SQUALL.

A crowded deck — Rough seas — La Calle and its boatmen — A sea-fight on a small scale — Dinner under difficulties — Trying to sleep — The small miseries of life — The Gulf of Tunis — A beautiful prospect — Goletta — My friend Afrigan — Jewish women — French soldiers 38

CHAPTER IV.

A FIRST GLIMPSE OF TUNIS.

An African railway-station — Fellow-countrymen — Mr. Parnell’s arrest — The “Little Sea” — African scenery — Sketches by the road-side — Camels, Moors, Bedouins — Tunis — The Grand Hotel — The Bab el Bahr — Tunisian costumes — The “Grande Rue de Tunis” — The bazaars — The slave-market 57

CHAPTER V.

THE ENGLISH CONSULATE.

Mr. Reade — His appointment as Consul-General — Changed circumstances — The Consul at home — Walls of blue china — The Consul’s duties — An offensive globe-trotter — A drive round the city walls — The Spanish aqueduct — The forts of Tunis — An awkward dilemma — My vivandière in trouble — An English home in Tunis — A sudden alarm 78

CHAPTER VI.

A DAY AT CARTHAGE.

The pious Æneas — A street scene — A nondescript vehicle — The road to Carthage — A wayside tragedy — Bedouin children — _Delenda est Carthago_ — An Empire’s dust — Dido’s Palace — The cisterns of Carthage — A lovely situation — The College of St. Louis — English ladies in Tunis 95

CHAPTER VII.

WALKS ABOUT TUNIS.

The English burial-ground — A sad spot — The author of “Home, sweet Home” — An Arab fortune-teller — On the top of a volcano — The “fanatical quarters” — More eastern than the East — Shopping in the bazaars — Mohamed the shopkeeper — Driving a bargain — Time _versus_ money 116

CHAPTER VIII.

OUTSIDE TUNIS.

Risks outside the walls — A tantalizing prospect — The gates of Tunis — The Belvedere hill — The French camp — Typhus — A fine prospect — A visit to the Marsa — Mr. Reade’s country-house — A country drive — Taib Bey — The fall of Kairwan — The Bardo — The suzerainty of the Caliph — A quaint custom 137

CHAPTER IX.

ON THE ROAD TO KAIRWAN.

The story of a failure — Friendly warnings — Uxorious Afrigan — A change of diet — I start for Susa — An African thunderstorm — Susa — Troublous times — A busy scene — A miniature railway — The English Vice-Consul — Preparations for camping-out — A new servant — Disappointed — A “Parisian Hotel” in the Gulf of Hammamet — A risky expedition — A faithful follower 159

CHAPTER X.

A GALE OFF CAPE BON.

A night of misery — No chance of seeing Kairwan — The Great Mosque of Susa — The Vice-Consul’s house — An English captive in Susa — Arab revolvers — Old friends — On board the _Ville de Naples_ — A disturbed meal — Running for shelter — Rounding Cape Bon — Glasgow for ever! 178

CHAPTER XI.

LAST DAYS AT TUNIS.

A retrospect — The captain of the Aristides — A curious meeting — Tunis again — Farewell visits — Rich shopkeepers — A last tussle with Mohamed — A real Arab gentleman — The Jeweller’s Bazaar — A visit to the Jewish quarter — An Arabian Night’s Entertainment — Dining, drinking, dancing 197

CHAPTER XII.

GOOD-BYE TO GOLETTA.

An Arab holiday — A state reception — A last look at the Bab el Bahr — The heir apparent — An English sailor’s courage — Italian greed — The _Sicilia_ — Sea-sick Arabs 221

CHAPTER XIII.

HOMEWARD BOUND.

Malta — The Union Club — A delightful change — The harbour by moonlight — A thrilling scene — the _Elettrico_ — Etna — Messina — Between Scylla and Charybdis — Sunrise off Naples — Home again 240