Chapter VIII

"I saw Garibaldi, and watch'd him nigh;
I saw the lightnings that flash from his eye:
He's not of the dust of which mortals are made,
And what reaches his heart will not be of lead."
_Dall'Ongaro._ T. D.

PREPARATIONS TO ATTACK PALERMO—NIGHT
MARCH—ATTACK—BATTLE—THE BOMBARDMENT.

"The first idea was to make the attack in the middle of
the night—the Neapolitans don't like to stir at night,
and there was every chance of a panic among them; but
there was some danger that way likewise for the Sicilian
insurgents, and it was thought best to make such
arrangements as would bring the force at dawn to the
gates of the town. According to the original and better
plan of the general himself and his adjutant-general,
Colonel Turr, the movement was to have been made along
the main road from Misilmeri, broad enough to admit of
considerable development of the columns, and commodious
in every respect. The native captains, however,
suggested the Pass of Mezzagna, which descends from the
heights behind Gebel Rosso into the plain of Palermo.
According to their statements, it was much shorter and
by no means difficult. Their statements were believed,
and the whole force received orders to be concentrated
by nightfall on the summit of the pass, crowned with a
church.

"According to the first disposition, the troops brought
by the general himself were to lead the way, and the
_squadre_ to follow; but some of the chiefs begged it as
a favor for their corps to have the honor of being first
in the town—a claim which could not be very well
refused. The plan was, therefore, modified. The guides
and three men from each company of the Cacciatori delle
Alpi, were formed into an _avant-garde_, confided to
Major Tüköri, a Hungarian, an officer who distinguished
himself under General Kméty on the 29th of September, at
Kars. Behind this _avant-garde_ followed the Sicilians,
commanded by La Maga, an emigrant, who had come over
with Garibaldi. The second line was led by the riflemen
of Genoa—excellent shots, all armed with the Swiss
carbine. Behind them came the two battalions of
Cacciatori delle Alpi, and in the rear the rest of the
Sicilians.

"The order having been distributed, the different bands
gradually worked their way toward the summit of the
pass. The packing up at headquarters did not take much
time; it soon after broke up its camp and followed the
troops. I was mounted on a regular Rosinante, with a
halter passed round the jaw, and provided with a saddle
which seemed to have been formed to fit on the vertebræ
of my lean black charger. A blanket was, however, found
in due time, and on the whole I cannot complain. The
road up to the pass winds along rows of gigantic cactus
hedges, which give a thoroughly eastern character to the
country. It was just sunset when we arrived on the top,
where, through a gap, we could see the bay and town of
Palermo and the sea beyond, looking more like a fairy
picture than reality. All the mountains, with their
rugged points naturally of a reddish tint, seemed to
have drunk in the rays of the setting sun, and exhibited
that rosy color which I had thought hitherto a special
gift of the plain of Attica. While you had this charming
scene before you, you looked behind, as it were, into
the hearts of the mountains. It was one of the finest
spots I ever saw, and all the country was fragrant with
spring flowers, the perfume of which came out with
redoubled vigor as soon as the sun had set. It proved a
bad road for the expedition, that mountain pass, but it
was lovely to look upon.

"In order to entertain the Neapolitans with the idea
that all was safe on that side, the usual large fires
were kindled on the tops of the mountains, and kept up
long after our departure by men left behind for that
purpose. Garibaldi went up to look at the position
underneath, or, perhaps, to indulge in that kind of
reverie to which he is subject in such solemn moments,
and which ends in a concentration of all his faculties
on the sole aim he has before him.

"The evening gun in the fort had been long reëchoed by
the mountains, and the moon had risen clear and bright
above our heads, giving a new charm to this lovely
scenery, before we stirred."

THE NIGHT MARCH.

"During this interval the _picciotti_ (youngsters), as
the patriots are called, were put into some kind of
order, which, you will believe me, was no easy matter in
the comparative darkness which prevailed; no chief
knowing his men, and the men not recognizing their
chief—every one acting for some one else, and no one
able to give an answer. With the exception of the troops
brought over by Garibaldi, all the rest seemed an
entangled mass almost impossible to unravel. However, by
degrees, those belonging to the same chief found
themselves together, and the march began about ten, P.M.
Either the Sicilian chieftains had never looked at the
Pass of Mezzagna, or else they have curious ideas of a
road; the whole is nothing but a track among big stones,
crossing and recrossing the bed of a mountain torrent,
following not unfrequently the bed of the torrent,
leading over smooth masses of stones and across most
awkward gaps—all this at an angle of twenty-five
degrees, to be passed on horseback at night! Even the
men could only go singly, which made our line a
frightful length, and caused continual delays and
stoppages. The general vowed never to believe another
Sicilian report on the state of a mountain road.
However, in the end, we reached the plain and came in
among the olive-trees below, with few falls among the
sure-footed horses. A halt was made until all the
columns had descended, and during this halt an incident
occurred which did not promise much for the future
behavior of our _picciotti_. The horses in Sicily are
left for the most part entire, hence continual fighting
and considerable neighing, which was so inconvenient in
a night expedition of this kind that several of the most
vicious steeds had to be sent back. One of them still
remained, and began its antics; the rider lost patience,
which made matters worse. Those nearest threw themselves
back in haste, and communicated the movement to those
behind. These, many of whom had sat down and began to
doze, mistook in their dreams, probably, the trees for
Neapolitans, the stars for so many shells, and the moon
for a colossal fireball; at any rate, the majority of
them were, with one bound, in the thickets on both sides
of the road, several fired off their muskets in
their fright, and very little was wanting to cause a
general panic. Every one did what he could to restore
confidence, but the effect was produced and reacted, as
you will see by and by. Another incident occurred, which
might have led to the failure of the whole expedition.
The Sicilian guides who were with the _avant-garde_
missed the road, and instead of taking a by-road which
led into the main road we had to pursue, they continued
on the road near the hill-side, which would have brought
us just where the Neapolitans were in the greatest
strength. The mistake was perceived in time and
repaired, but not without considerable loss of time. At
last the column emerged on to the main road, which is
broad and skirted by high garden walls. As we had lost
considerable time with all these _contretemps_, and as
dawn was approaching, we had to make haste, but whether
from fatigue or the impression of the night panic, the
_picciotti_ could not be brought to move very fast. It
was just the first glimmer of dawn when we passed the
first houses, which extend in this direction a long way
out of the town of Palermo. The _squadre_, who ought to
have known the locality better, began shouting and
'evvivaing,' just as if we had been close to the gates.
Had it not been for this blunder, the _avant-garde_
might have surprised the post on the bridge of the
Ammiragliato, and probably penetrated into the town
without the loss of a man. As it was, the shouting not
only roused those on guard on the bridge, but likewise
gave an opportunity to the Neapolitans to strengthen the
force at the gate of Termini, and to make all their
dispositions for a defence from the flank.

"Instead, therefore, of surprising the post on the
bridge, the _avant-garde_ was received by a
well-sustained fire, not only in front, but from the
houses in their flanks. At the first sound of the
musketry, most of the _picciotti_ were across the garden
walls, but not with the view of firing from behind them,
leaving thus the 30 or 40 men of the _avant-garde_ all
isolated in the large exposed street which leads to the
bridge. The first battalion of the Cacciatori was sent
up, and as it did not carry the position fast enough,
the second was sent after it soon after. While these
were driving back the Neapolitans, every one did his
best to drive the _picciotti_ forward. It was not so
easy, in the beginning especially, when the sound of
cannon was heard in front, although its effects were
scarcely visible. However, the _picciotti_, who remind
me very much of Arnout Bashibazouks, can be led on after
the first unpleasant sensation has passed away,
especially when they see that it is not all shots that
kill or wound—not even the cannon-shots, which make so
formidable a noise. They could see this to perfection
this morning, for although the Neapolitan rifles are
scarcely inferior to the best fire-arms, I never saw so
little damage done by so much shooting. Every one put
himself, therefore, to work to lead and urge on the
_picciotti_, driving them out of the sheltered places by
all kinds of contrivances, and often by blows and main
force. After some trouble, most of them were safely
brought through the open space before the bridge, but
the general tendency was to go under rather than above
the bridge, which is, like all bridges over torrents,
high, and was, in this instance, exposed to a heavy
cross fire from the Piana di Borazzo, where the
Neapolitans had a loopholed wall and some guns mounted,
which threw a few ill-aimed shells. While the general
himself, and many of his staff, did their best to make
them leave this shelter again and proceed, the
_avant-garde_ had chased back the Neapolitans to the
_stradone_ which runs down to the sea just in front of
the Porta di Termini. The Neapolitan fort at the gate,
considerably reinforced, opened a hot fire, which swept
down the long avenue of houses leading to the bridge,
while at the same time the two guns and the troops
posted at the Porta Sant' Antonino, brought a cross fire
to bear on the attackers. But this was no obstacle to
the brave fellows who led the way. They did not lose
time with firing, but rushed on with the bayonet. The
commander of the _avant-garde_, who was a Hungarian
major, and three of the guides, were the first across
the sand-bag barricade in the town, but the leader was
wounded by a shot which shattered his left knee.
Otherwise the loss had been trifling. While the
_avant-garde_ and the Cacciatori chased the Neapolitans
from spot to spot, the Palermitans began likewise to
stir, but, justice compels me to say, only in the parts
which the troops had left.

"The same scene as at the bridge was repeated at the
crossing of the _stradone_ by the _picciotti_, who
followed in a straggling movement. And yet it was
important to get into the town, in order not to be
outflanked or taken in the rear by the Neapolitans
holding the Piana di Borazzo. In order to avert this
danger, the order was given to some of the bands to get
behind the garden walls which line the road by which the
Neapolitans might have come down on our left. These
diversions, and probably the dislike to fight in open
field, were sufficient to parry this danger until the
greatest part of the stragglers had passed. At the same
time a barricade was thrown up in the rear with anything
which could be laid hold of. This work pleased the
_picciotti_ so well, that they began throwing up a
barricade in front likewise. At any rate, they blocked
up a part of the road before they could be prevented.

"But the most critical thing was decidedly the crossing
of the _stradone_, where the cross fire was kept up, and
all kinds of dodges were resorted to to make them risk
this _salto_, which they thought mortal. I and one of
the followers of Garibaldi held out one of the men by
main force exposed to the fire, which soon made him run
across. It was here, above all, that the bad firing of
the Neapolitans told. I was looking on for some time,
and did not see a single man even wounded. In order to
encourage the _picciotti_, one of the Genoese riflemen
took four or five chairs, planted the tricolor on one of
them, and sat down upon it for some time. The thing took
at last decidedly, and you saw the _picciotti_ stopping
on the road to fire off their muskets.

"Close to the Porta di Termini is the Vecchia Fiera—the
old market-place. One must know these Sicilians to have
an idea of the frenzy, screaming, shouting, crying, and
hugging: all would kiss Garibaldi's hand and embrace his
knees. Every moment brought new masses, which debouched
in troops from one of the streets, anxious to have their
turn. As the Cacciatori gradually cleared the lower part
of the town, most of the inhabitants came to have a
look, and give a greeting to the Liberator of Palermo
and Sicily. The entrance was effected about half-past 5
A.M., and by noon more than one-half of the town was
clear of the troops. But two hours before this was
effected, the citadel had opened its fire on the town,
at first moderately enough, but soon after with great
vigor, firing large 13-inch shell, red-hot shot, and
every other projectile calculated to do the greatest
possible damage. About noon or so, the ships in the
harbor opened their fire, and between the two they
contrived to destroy a great number of houses in the
lower part of the town, killing and wounding a great
number of people of all ages and both sexes. Two of the
large shells were sent right into the hospital, and
exploded in one of the wards. Everywhere you perceived
ruins and conflagrations, dead and wounded, not a few of
whom must have perished among the ruins of their houses.
It was especially the part of the town near the Piazzi
Bologni, and some of the adjoining streets which was
ill-treated. If the object of the Neapolitans was to
inspire terror, they certainly succeeded. Whoever could,
took refuge in whatever he thought the most bomb-proof
place, and those who could not, you saw crying, praying,
and wringing their hands in the streets. It was a
pitiable sight, indeed, and it did more harm to
inoffensive people than to those who might have
retaliated. Before opening the fire, the commodore sent
a polite message to all the men-of-war which were in the
way to get out of it, and all the vessels which were
moored inside the Mole had to shift their berths and
take up positions outside."

THE BOMBARDMENT.

"EVENING.

"The bombardment is still kept up, with only short
intervals, especially from the Castle, where the _alter
ego_ of King Bomba II. reigns. There is no doubt that
Admiral Mundy made very strong representations to the
Neapolitan commodore about the bombardment, but they
have not been listened to. Some parts of the town will
have to be entirely rebuilt, the large shells having
passed right through from top to bottom, shaking those
ill-built constructions. Several of the churches have
come in for their share; yet all this useless
bombardment has not prevented the soldiers from being,
by degrees dislodged from all their positions in the
town, with the exception of the parts about the royal
palace and their line of communication with the Mole. In
the lower part of the town they possess only the
Castello Amare and the Finanze, which is held by a
company or so of soldiers. Most of the foreign subjects
have taken refuge on board the men-of-war, and all the
consuls, with the exception of Mr. Goodwin, our own, who
sticks like a true Briton to his consular flag.
According to all accounts, there is no comparison,
between the bombardment in 1848 and the present one.
Then the Neapolitans were satisfied with sending one or
two shells every half hour, while now they take just
time enough to let their guns and mortars cool.

"All those who came in this morning with Garibaldi are
dead beat, having had no sleep last night, and plenty of
work since. The general himself is reposing on the
platform which surrounds the large fountain in the
Piazza del Pretorio, where the committee is sitting
_en permanence_. This committee, the same which
carried on the whole movement from the beginning, has
constituted itself as a provisional government, under
the dictatorship of Garibaldi. It has appointed several
special committees for the different branches of its
operations, and provides as well as possible for the
many wants which occur every moment. Considering the
oppression under which the people have been, very
little preparation could be made for the emergency,
and everything has to be provided now under the
pressure of the moment—arms, as far as possible,
ammunition, provisions for the troops, hospital wants
and arrangements, besides the great fact of satisfying
every one who wants, or thinks he wants, something, and
listening to every one who has something to say, or
thinks he has. There is a great deal of good-will on the
part of the committee, but I must say it is not so
energetically seconded by the Palermitans as one could
have expected from their enthusiasm. There is a
semi-oriental _laissez aller_ about them, which only
produces fits of activity scarcely equal to the moment.

"At our first entrance into the town, there was a good
deal of haste made about the barricades, but as the
extension of the occupation constantly requires new
barricades, there is some difficulty in keeping them up
to the work; a great many _evvivas_, but all preferred
to run about the streets to laying hand to the work.
Even the ringing of the bells, the most demoralizing
sound to an army in a populous town, can, in spite of
all injunctions, be only kept up in fits and starts. It
is the southern indolence, which soon gets the better of
all good dispositions.

"The town is illuminated, and presents, during the
intervals of the bombardment, an animated appearance;
but all the shops are still closed. The illumination,
with the antique-shaped glass lamps suspended from the
balconies, presents a very pretty effect, rather
heightened by the shells flying through the clear sky."

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