Chapter XXVII: Letter LIV: SIR, London, May 4, 1733 (1)

The last brought us to the Royal Family, and what relates to the Court. The latter is more numerous than brilliant, if it be certain that Pleasures form the Splendor of a Court. Of these their Majesties don't seem to be fond, at least of those noisy Pleasures, that instead of unbending the Mind, which ought to be the Aim of all Pleasures, only serve to fatigue it.

'Tis very easy to obtain the Honour of being introduced to their Majesties, and the Royal Family, nothing more being necessary, than to send in one's Name to the Duke of _Grafton_, his Majesty's Lord Chamberlain, and my Lord _Grantham_, the Queen's Master of the Horse. People go to the King's Levee, and the Queen's Drawing-Room, as they do in _France_. Their Majesties dine in Public only upon _Sundays_, when none eat with 'em but their Children. The Table is in Form of an oblong Square, in the Middle of which sit the King and Queen, with the Prince of _Wales_ on the Right, and the three eldest Princesses on the Left. The Service here is performed in the same Manner as it is in _France_. The Table is plac'd in the midst of a Hall, surrounded with Benches to the very Cieling, which are fill'd with an infinite Number of Spectators. The same Room serves also for the Balls, when there are any at Court. Three times a Week there's an Apartment here, called the _Drawing-Room_, which is open'd at Ten o'Clock at Night. About this Hour the Ladies repair to the said Apartment, which consists of three great Salons, made by the Direction of Queen _Anne_, which are the only tolerable Rooms in all St. _James_'s Palace. The King comes to it attended not only by the Queen, who is led by the Prince of _Wales_, but by the Princesses her Daughters. Their Majesties converse there for a few Moments with such Persons as they are pleased to distinguish; after which the Queen makes a profound Curtsy to the King, and goes to play for about an Hour with the Princess-Royal, and two Ladies, whom her Majesty singles out of the Company, and a little before Midnight their Majesties retire. Upon those Days that there's no Drawing-Room, the King and Queen are generally at the Opera, or the Play-house. In fine Weather they take the Air in St. _James_'s Park, or the Suburbs of _London_. In Summer-time their Majesties are for the most part at _Kensington_, _Windsor_, or _Hampton-Court_, the two last of which Palaces are beautiful. The first of these was built by the famous Cardinal _Wolsey_, the Favourite of King _Henry_ VIII. and before _Lewis_ XIV. began to build; was reckon'd the finest Palace in _Europe_.

The King does not hunt much, but employs most of his Time with his Ministers, consulting the Welfare of his Dominions. Of these Sir ROBERT WALPOLE is the Principal, and he is the only Commoner in _Great Britain_ that is honoured with the Order of the Garter. This Minister, who is not less applauded by the Court Party, than he is censured by the contrary Faction, has the general Veneration and Esteem of all the Courts of _Europe_; where 'tis confess'd to be owing to his Direction that the Cabinet of St. _James_'s gives Motion at this Time to all _Europe_, and that he is the Soul of all Councils, all Deliberations, and all Resolutions. Sir _Robert Walpole_ seems, in my Opinion, to be attended with the Fate of my Lord Duke of _Marlborough_, who, tho' admir'd by the whole World, and even by those to whom he did most Mischief, was hardly valued in his own Country, which he crown'd with Glory and Prosperity. I shall say nothing to you at present of this Gentleman's private Character, because I am not yet well enough acquainted with it. As I have no Business with him, I see him pass along; and that's all. I want some Neutral Man (that is to say, one who is neither for nor against this Minister) that knows him well, and will let me into the Knowledge of him too. If I am so fortunate as to find out such a Person, I will impart to you such Lights as he shall give me. Mean time I hear him talk'd of in Public as one that understands the Constitution of the Kingdom better than any Man in it, who thoroughly knows the Strength and Weakness of the State, and one whom nothing terrifies, nothing astonishes: And I may add, there's no Man more bold and enterprizing. He perfectly knows his Countrymen, and has the true Art of Government: And no Body speaks with more Eloquence in Parliament; where whatever he proposes seldom fails of being pass'd; and the Lower-house is, as one may say, determined by him.

His greatest Opponents in Parliament are Mr. _P----y_ in the House of Commons, and my Lord _St----d_ in the House of Peers. This Lord, you know, was for a long time Ambassador from Queen _Anne_ to the Court of _Berlin_, and afterwards to the States General; and that it was he that sign'd the Treaty of Peace at _Utrecht_: He was a Member of the Privy Council when the Queen died; but King _George_ I. did not think fit continue him; at which his Lordship being disgusted, absented from Court, and became in Parliament the Censor of the Ministers. After the Death of King _George_ I. the Earl paid his Respects to their present Majesties, who received him with very great Marks of Distinction; which however did not hinder his constant Opposition to the Measures of the Court: Yet it cannot be deny'd that his Lordship behav'd with very great Prudence in the Changes that happened upon the Accession of the _Brunswic_ Family to the Throne. This Lord, speaking to me one Day of those Alterations, in the Voyage which I made hither in 1728, told me, that if he had been rul'd by the Duke of _Ormond_, he would have been in the same miserable Circumstances as that Duke. "He did all he could, _said he_, to persuade me to quit the Kingdom with him; but he was so far from decoying me away, that I made use of all the Rhetoric I was Master of, to persuade him to stay at home, because we had neither of us done any thing but by Order of the Queen our Mistress; that therefore we had nothing to fear, and that the worst that could happen to us would be a Censure. But the Duke had such a Terror upon him, that all these Arguments were not powerful enough to encourage him; and but a few Hours before he went off, he came and conjured me to leave the Kingdom with him. I made him this Answer: _I have nothing to reproach myself with_, my Lord, _I have obeyed the Queen, and I have too high an Opinion of the Justice of my Country, and too great a Confidence in the Equity of the King, to fear any Thing_. The Answer which the Duke made me was, _Well then_, my Lord, _I must take the same Farewel of you as the_ Prince of Orange _did of_ Count Egmont. FAREWEL, COUNT WITHOUT A HEAD. To which I replied, FAREWEL, DUKE WITHOUT A DUCHY. The Event has shewn, that I was a better Prophet than the Duke of _Ormond_: For I enjoy my Estate in Peace, whereas what he had is taken from him." In the same Conversation the Earl talked a great deal to me of their Majesties, and in Terms of the profoundest Respect. He expressed an infinite Value for the King, who when Prince of _Wales_, said he, always treated him with very great Regard and Goodness. Nevertheless this Lord seldom appears at Court: He spends the Summer in the Country, and the Winter at _London_, where once a Week he has an Assembly; but in other respects he lives very retired, and at no great Expence.

The Duke of _Newcastle_ is Secretary of State. This Nobleman is extremely civil, very rich, and lives grand. He has the Province of foreign Affairs, in Conjunction with my Lord _Harrington_, who, when he was only Colonel _Stanhope_, gain'd Reputation as Ambassador in _Spain_, and at the Congress of _Soissons_. I knew this Minister at _Madrid_ in 1719, and can vouch for him, that he is one of the worthiest and soberest Men in the World. He is good-natur'd, modest, generous, and mighty sincere. He is shy of new Acquaintance, but when once a Man knows him, the better he will like him.

I don't think that the Ministers of this Country, or the Nobility, are so haughty as they are represented in our Country; and have Reason to think, that they who say the _English_ are not civil to Foreigners, have not been very conversant with 'em. 'Tis true, they are not so engaging as the _French_; but when a Man is known among them, gives into their Ways, and courts their Favour, in short, they are, methinks, as courteous and civil as any other People in the World. An _Englishman_ won't be saying at every Turn, _That he has the Honour to be your most humble Servant; that he has the Honour to say, to hear_, and so of the rest. He will say it perhaps once in a Conversation, and that's all; nor, on the other hand, does he want to be loaded with Compliments, Acknowledgments, and impertinent Bows. As he is above Trifles, he looks upon all those frothy Expressions as frivolous; and this it is that makes our young Travellers think, that the _English_ are not polite. Such far-fetcht and bombast Phrases are commonly all that those Sparks have learnt at a great deal of Expence in their Travels to _France_, and they are perfectly astonished, when they come into a Land of good Sense, and see so little Notice taken of what they have paid for so dear, and what has cost them so much Pains to acquire.

There are some _English_ People, who upon certain Occasions seem to forget the Persons they were great with but the Day before. In my former Voyage to this Country, I was at first surprised at this sort of Behaviour, and ascribed the Cause of it to the Pride of the _English_; but I was convinced afterwards, that it was owing much more to a melancholy Temper, which is general to almost the whole Nation. An _Englishman_ of this Cast is not the less a Friend upon that Account, and if one does not take Notice of that Unevenness of Temper, he will naturally come to himself, and they readily forgive their Friend for any Absence of Thought. In short, the _English_ have their Failings, because they are but Men; but I shall always pay very great Credit to an _Englishman_, when he tells me, that he is my Friend. In order to acquire the Friendship of these People, 'tis absolutely necessary to speak their Language. Many of them understand _French_ and _Italian_, but they don't care to speak foreign Languages; and when they do, 'tis either from Necessity or Constraint. Now Constraint is what the _English_ don't at all like; for as they enjoy the greatest Liberty of any People in the World, they have an Aversion to every Thing which cramps it.

Their Manners differ extremely from those of the _French_, which is what the latter are at a Loss to account for; because they have been always so much imitated by all other Nations, that they think themselves the Directors of Mankind, and that the _English_ do them an Injustice in not following their Copies. To give you my Judgment as to the Manners of these two Nations, is what I shall not undertake, being restrained from it by several Considerations, especially the Fear of doing Wrong either to the one or the other, and that I should not give a right Judgment in so great a Cause. They are both perhaps not exempt from very great Failings; but it seems to me, that the _English_ are not the Slaves of that Tyrant, Custom, and chuse to follow their Genius and good Sense. They don't surfeit themselves with those Nothings which the _French_ call Politeness, and which seem to be invented only to pass away the Time. In fine, to speak my Mind plainly, if I was but twenty Years of Age, I could like to be a complete _Frenchman_; but now that I am forty, I am perfectly reconciled to the Manners and Customs of the _English_.

A Zeal for Religion seems to me to be the only Point in which there is a Conformity of Temper between the two Nations: And tho' they differ widely in Principles, yet they both cry out loudly for the Privileges of their Church, and both have equally their Fanatics. For tho' _London_ has not such as are Devotees to St. _Paris_, it has other Sectaries, who are as senseless. For the rest, the two Nations may boast of having produced a great Number of good Men, as appears from the many good Books of Devotion and Morality, for which we are obliged to them. And as for Libertines, I think neither Nation has reason to reproach the other, and that there are as many at _London_ as at _Paris_.

The _English_ are run down for their Cruelty, but I know not for what Reason, unless it be, that in a Battle they do not readily give Quarter, and are apt to pursue their Advantage too far. I fansy it would be easy to prove, that other Nations, who charge the _English_ with this Vice, are more cruel than they. For in short, the Barbarities committed in the Conquest of _Mexico_, the burning of the _Palatinate_, the Massacre of St. _Bartholomew_, the _Sicilian_ Vespers, the Assassinations of the best of Kings, are Cruelties that are not to be matched in the History of _England_. We don't hear of those Assassinations in this Country, that are committed elsewhere; and even the Highwaymen seem to be more humane here than Abroad; for they generally content themselves with what is given them, without shedding of Blood; and some of them are so generous, as to give Money to People whom other Highwaymen had stripped. 'Tis inconceiveable how many Stratagems these Rogues make use of to carry their Points. I have been told a great many Stories upon this Head, of which I give you the following, because I think 'twas very well contrived.

As a Nobleman was travelling in his Coach, the Roads were so extremely bad, that his Servants who were on Horseback, were forced to turn out of the High-Road into a By-Way. His Lordship came by Degrees into a Vale, where he met with a Man on Horseback, who putting a Gun into the Coach, said to him, _My Lord, this is a good Gun; 'tis worth a hundred Pieces between Friends; I would advise you to buy it_. The Nobleman understood his Meaning, but being defenceless, he drew a hundred Guineas out of his Purse, which the Highwayman took, and gave him the Gun. The first Thing that my Lord did, was to present it at the Highwayman; but he told him, that he was not afraid of him; for, in short, the Gun was not charged, so that my Lord could not recover his Money.

As the Highwaymen are so artful in committing Robberies, they are much more so in escaping Justice. A Highwayman, who had also committed a Murder near _London_, some Years ago, rode fifty _French_ Leagues that Day, upon the same Horse. When he came to the Place where he thought himself safe, he took out his Watch; and shewing it to the People of the Inn where he sat up, _I call you to witness_, said he, _that at such an Hour I came hither, and I desire you to give me a Certificate of it in Writing_. They gave him one accordingly, which Piece of Paper saved his Life; for when he was apprehended, his Judges being assured that he was the Murderer, were just going to condemn him, when he ask'd them, At what o'Clock the Murder was committed? The Judges having told him the Hour, _How come you to think_, said he, _that 'twas possible for me so be guilty of the Crime of which you accuse me, when I was that very Day fifty Leagues from the Place where 'twas committed_? The Judges, thinking it out of the Power of Man to be there, and so far off too, in that Time, set the Culprit at Liberty. Mean time, the President being persuaded that he was guilty, ask'd him privately how it was; and the Highwayman, after having made him promise to keep the Secret, confessed the Fact.

I could tell you a Number of such Stories, not so much to convince you, that the _English_ are not cruel, as to prove to you, that their Highwaymen are cunning. All the Laws here are mild, and not severe. There are no Tortures, nor are such made use of, even in Conspiracies. Nobody is condemned to die, if he be not found guilty before two Tribunals or Juries, composed of Persons who are, as near as can be, Men of equal Rank with the Party accused. The first Tribunal must consist of more than twelve Persons, but twelve is the Number by whom the Bill must be found. The second Tribunal consists precisely of twelve Jurymen, who must all be agreed in their Verdict, and be shut up together, without being allowed Victuals or Drink, till they are all of the same Opinion. There are but two Sorts of Execution known here, _viz._ Hanging and Beheading, of which the last is reserved only for such as are Peers of the Realm.

It seems to me, by what I have now told you, that the _English_ are as humane, and more so, than we are, who refine upon Tortures and Executions; as if 'twere nothing to make a Man suffer, and that 'twas not enough to take that Life from him, which no Monarch in the World can prolong one Moment, much less restore to him from whom he has once taken it.

The Execution of Criminals here is a perfect Shew to the People, by Reason of the Courage with which most of 'em go to the fatal Tree. I lately saw five carried to the Gallows, who were dressed, and seemed to be as well pleased, as if they were going to a Feast. The Executions here are not performed with that terrible Apparatus as they are elsewhere. There is not that Number of Halbardiers, nor all that Gravity, which sometimes strikes a greater Awe than the Execution itself. A Criminal goes to the Gallows here in a Cart. When he is directly under it, he is fastened to the Top of it, when a Smack of a Whip makes the Horses draw away the Cart, and the Criminal remains hanging. I am told, that his Friends or Neighbours pull him by the Feet, in order to dispatch him the sooner. They who die without Fainting, are always extolled to the Skies by the Populace, and the least of their Characters are, that they died like brave Gentlemen.

'Tis one of the distinguishing Characters of an _Englishman_, to be intrepid in the Article of Death. We are forbid by Religion, to approve of that Contempt of Life; yet we can't help admiring it in the _Romans_, from whom the _English_ have, no doubt, derived the Practice of putting an End to their Days, when Life is a Burden to them. These Self-Murders are but too frequent here, and are committed by Persons of good Families, as well as by the Dregs of the People. I gave you an Instance in one of my Letters from _Paris_, of a certain Bookbinder and his Wife, who hang'd themselves at _London_, for fear of that Misery in Life which they thought unavoidable. I could give you other Instances as tragical, if I were not apprehensive, that such melancholy Catastrophes would give you Horror. Mean time you must agree with me in the Impossibility of accounting for such a strange odd Turn of Mind in these People; for in short, other Nations don't seem by their Actions to have any more Religion than the _English_, and they are all equally sensible of Misfortunes; yet one rarely hears of a Foreigner makeing an Attempt upon himself. How come the _English_ then to be so free with Life? Does it proceed from a greater Sense of Courage, or of Cowardice?

A great many of 'em hang themselves purely for Love. I own to you, that if I were so forsaken by God, as to commit such a foolish Prank, it should be for an _English_ Woman. They have, in my Opinion, such an Air of Modesty and Good-nature, and withal, such a bashful Simplicity, as charm me, and such tender languishing Eyes too, as tho' not universally pleasing, yet captivate me to such a Degree, that if I was but twenty Years of Age, I should have gone very much astray. Most of the _English_ Women are handsome; they have the finest Hair in the World, and are only obliged to pure Nature for the Beauty of their Complexions. 'Tis a Pleasure to see them blush. The frankest of 'em retain an Air of Modesty, which would persuade one, that they don't affect to be wicked. They are commonly very richly dressed, but not altogether in the Taste of the _French_ Ladies, which is the only Fault that I find with 'em. They seem to affect Dressing to their Disadvantage. Their Gowns so close before, with strait Sleeves, which don't reach beyond the Elbow, make them look as if they had no Shoulders nor Breasts. And what is worse than all, they have broad flat Rumps to their Gowns, and Hoop-Petticoats, narrow at the Top, and monstrously wide at the Bottom. They are always laced, and 'tis as rare to see a Woman here without her Stays on, as it is to see one at _Paris_ in a full Dress. I wish the _English_ Ladies would take Pattern by the _French_ a little more in their Dress; for in my Judgment, the Knots of Ribban in their Cornets, and a thousand Trinkets with which the latter set themselves off, are very becoming to the Sex. On the other hand, I should be glad, if the young Gentlemen did not imitate the _French_ Air and Dress so much as they do; but kept to the Manners of their own Country, which are more suitable to the Men. They say, that among the good Qualities of the Women here, they are equally susceptible themselves of the Passion of Love, which they are so apt to kindle in the Men. This is very good, and perfectly natural; for in my Opinion, nothing is so ill becoming to the Fair Sex as Hard-heartedness, the rather, because I believe 'tis possible for a Woman to be in Love, without abandoning Virtue.

The Ladies here have little to employ them; their Amusement being to give and receive Visits, to go often to Court, to have the Pleasure of being seen, which really is of all Pleasures that which they seem to take most Delight in. This is the Motive that carries them to the public Walks, Concerts, and Theatres; in all which Places they are mightily reserved, have but little Talk, and their chief Conversation is the Flutter of their Fans. I was one Day paying a Visit at a House where there was an Assembly of twenty Women, and not one Man besides myself: They look'd upon one another, but did not speak a Word. I may defy you to shew me any other Place where there's a Score of Women in Company, and not one Tongue stirring. As for the rest, the Women here enjoy great Liberty. They turn out in a Morning, with a black velvet Mask on their Faces, a Coif on, in form of a Hat, with the Brims down, a round Gown, and a white Apron; and in this Trim they go to the Park, or whithersoever they please. They take the Air very much on Horseback. In short, they do what they have a Mind to. Mean time the Husbands are seldom of their Parties, and trouble themselves very little whither they go, being too much Philosophers, and of too good Sense, to make their Honour dependent on the Virtue of their Wives, which at the same time, I verily believe, to be in less Danger here than elsewhere, it being not the Genius of the _English_, to take a great deal of Pains for an Amour; and I am persuaded, that _Hercules_'s Love for _Omphale_ will never be equalled in this Country.

The Pleasures of this great City are of many and various Kinds; yet I have known _Englishmen_, at their Return from _Paris_, say, they thought _London_ too dull a Place for 'em to live in. Others would argue with me, that there's more Diversion at _Rome_. You know, Sir, what I have related to you, of the Pleasures both of _Rome_ and _Paris_; and after I have given you an Account of those of _London_, such as they are, or may be taken, you shall be the Judge betwixt those _Frenchify'd_ or _Italianized Englishmen_, and me.

A Man of Sense, a Scholar, a Devotee; in one Word, a Man, is never at a Loss here for suitable Company, and I defy him to meet with better on the other Side of the Herring-Pond: The irregular Man, or rather the Deboshee, has here his full Swing: And the fine Gentleman, whom I place in a Medium betwixt the two Extremes, has enough to regale his Appetite. As the Species of the latter, is the most prevailing, we will shew how he passes his Time: He rises late, puts on a Frock, (which is a close-body'd Coat, without Pockets or Plaits, and with strait Sleeves) and leaving his Sword at home, takes his Cane, and goes where he pleases. The Park is commonly the Place he walks to, because 'tis the Exchange for Men of Quality. There he has it at his Choice to make any Engagement whatsoever. Then he goes home to dress, and afterwards saunters to some Coffee-house, or Chocolate-house, frequented by the Person he would see; for 'tis a sort of Rule with the _English_, to go, once a Day at least, to Houses of this Sort, where they talk of Business and News, read the Papers, and often look at one another, without opening their Lips; and 'tis very well they are so mute; for if they were as talkative as the People of many other Nations, the Coffee-houses would be intolerable, and there would be no hearing what one Man said, where there are so many. The Chocolate-house in St. _James_'s-street, whither I go every Morning, to pass away the Time, is always so full that a Man can scarce turn about in it. Here are Dukes, and other Peers, mixed with Gentlemen; and to be admitted, there needs nothing more than to dress like a Gentleman. At one o'Clock, they go to Court, to the King's Levee, and from thence to the Queen's Apartment, where is commonly a great Number of Ladies, very well dressed. At three o'Clock they all retire to their several Appointments. Dinners here are very expensive, and parties at Taverns very much in Fashion. At private Houses the Ladies retire as soon as Dinner is over, and the Men remain at the Table; upon which, the Cloth being taken off, the Footmen place a Bottle of Wine, or more, if all the Guests don't drink the same Sort, with Glasses well rinsed, and then they withdraw, only one waits at the Beaufet. The Bottle now goes round; every one fills his Glass as he pleases, and drinks as much, or as little as he will; but they always drink too much, because they sit too long at it.

When the Company breaks up from Table, if it be fine Weather, they go out again for the Air, either in a Coach to _Hide_ Park, where the Ring is, or else on Foot to St. _James_'s Park. In the Winter they make Visits till the Plays begin; but these Representations really deserve a separate Article, and you shall have it by-and-by at large. After the Opera's or Plays are over, the Company goes to the Assemblies, which are alternative, sometimes at one Lord's House, and sometimes at another's, or else they repair to the _Drawing-room_. At Midnight they go to Supper. The Companies formed at the Taverns are the merriest, and _Bacchus_ is commonly seconded by _Venus_. At Day light the jolly Carousers retire home. Judge, after what I have now said, whether a young Gentleman has not as much to amuse himself at _London_, as at _Paris_ and _Rome_. Believe me, that they who say that this City is too melancholy for 'em, only say so to give themselves an Air.

At private Houses the Tables are served with as much Neatness and Delicacy as in any Country in the World. There are three Dishes commonly at each Course, and Plates are often laid two or three deep, which is the Reason that People always eat more than they would otherwise, and that Abundance of Time is spent at Table. There is excellent Beef here; and I am in Love with their Puddings, which are made of Flour, Eggs, Crumbs of Bread, and in short, a thousand Ingredients that I know nothing of, but all together make very good Fare. There's one Custom established in these Houses, which to be sure you would not dislike, _viz._ That at the first Time of a Man's Introduction to a Family, he salutes the Mistress of the House with a Kiss, which tho' but a very modest one, 'tis a Pleasure to see a Colour come into the Lady's Cheeks, as if they had committed a Fault. A second Custom, which is not so agreeable as the former, is, that after a Man has been entertained, something must be given to the Servants of the House: And this Gift must be proportioned to the Rank of the Master of the House at whose Table you have sat; so that if a Duke gives me a Dinner four times a Week, his Footmen would pocket as much of my Money, as would serve my Expences at the Tavern for a Week. I wonder why the _English_ keep up this Custom, those especially who live so magnificently, and pay their Domestics so handsomely, that I believe they are as happy as any of their Class in the World.

The Tavern Reckonings run excessive high, but then there's the best of Attendance and Accommodation; in which respect I prefer them to the Cabarets of _Paris_, where the Table Linen is generally very course and dirty.

The Assemblies here are so throng'd, that there's hardly any stirring. Nevertheless, there are seldom more than three or four Gaming-Tables. Almost every body is standing. They are in perpetual Motion, like a Swarm of Ants; they jostle and squeeze by one another, then ask Pardon, pass mutual Compliments, and just inquire after one another's Health; but 'tis in a manner impossible to hold a Conversation.

The gayest and most numerous Assembly in _Europe_ is upon the Ball-Days at the Grand Theatre in the _Hay Market_. I can safely say, that I never saw a finer Sight in my Life. Sometimes there are no less than three thousand in Company. Every Person pays a Guinea, for which they are accommodated with all manner of Refreshments, and all the Sorts of Wines imaginable, besides a stately Desert of Fruit and Sweetmeats. All this numerous Assembly parades in several Rooms richly adorned, and completely illuminated. In several of these they dance, and in others there's Play. The Entertainment opens with a Concert perform'd by the ablest Musicians in _London_. Then the Ball begins, and holds till next Morning. At these Balls the Company are often mask'd, and then the King and the Prince of _Wales_ honour them with their Presence; but the Queen and the Princesses are never there. At all these Entertainments, every body appears very well dressed, and the Ladies especially are stuck all over with Jewels; for there is no Country in the World where there are finer Diamonds. The _English_ Dances are Country-dances, which require several Couples at a time; and all that perform in them, close in by Turns, which gives Opportunities of making an Acquaintance. The Tunes to which they dance are so brisk, that I fansy they would be more agreeable to the Vivacity of the _French_, than the Sedateness of the _English_.

As to Plays, the _English_ are fond of them, and have more of 'em than any other Nation. They have an _Italian_ Opera, which is the best and most magnificent in _Europe_. They pay a Guinea for the Boxes, half a Guinea for the Pit, and a Crown for the Gallery. But though 'tis always crouded, yet it won't defray the Expences of Acting; so that several of the Nobility contribute to the Salaries of the Actors, which are extravagant; but then they have the best Voices of _Italy_. An Actor, whose Name is _Senesino_, has one thousand five hundred Pounds a Year, besides Presents in Abundance. The Music of these Operas is generally composed by one _Handel_, who is esteemed by a great many People beyond all Expression, but others reckon him no extraordinary Man; and for my own part, I think his Music not so affecting as 'tis elegant. The Decorations are very fine, and the Room is very large, and much more beautiful than that at _Paris_. The Company sit for most part in the Pit, where the Ladies form Semi-Circles, so that all their Faces are seen, which makes a very good Effect. I forgot to tell you, that the whole is well illuminated with Wax candles. There's Dancing between the Acts, when there is no burlesque Interlude.

Besides the _Italian_ Opera, there's an _English_ one, where they sing only the Tunes, the rest being recited. This, I think, is more just, than when the whole is sung; at least a Man does not sing when he is killing or beating himself.

The _English_ Comedy is no less esteemed by the _English_, than it has been severely criticiz'd by the _French_, who say, 'tis not comparable to theirs. The Wits of both Nations have treated this important Subject very gravely, and have alike shewn their Presumption. I am far from giving my Judgment betwixt them; but I must say, that it seems to me, that the _French_ are too much cramp'd by their Rules, and the _English_ not enough. Thus do the two Nations discover the Difference of their Taste, the one for Obedience, the other for Liberty. Tho' the _English_ are not such nice Observers of the Simplicity of the Subject, and the Unity of Place, yet they seem to me to abound in happy Sentiments: And how much prejudiced soever they may be said to be in Favour of their own Productions, yet they do not want an Esteem for such _French_ Pieces, where they meet with Sentiments that are agreeable. The Tragedy of _Brutus_ by _Voltaire_ is just translated here, which is a Piece that has had a better Run even at _London_, than at _Paris_; and as it was composed by the Author in _England_, he was so intirely captivated with the Freedom of Thinking among the _English_, that he had in some measure forgot he was a _Frenchman_, and speaks in it of Kings as if they were but Men.

The Plays lead me to give you an Account of the rest of those Pleasures in which the _English_ seem to take Delight. They hunt much, but in a Manner very different from us. They ride exceeding hard, and hunt a poor Hare with as much Eagerness as they pursue a routed Enemy. Their Hounds, and their Horses too, encourage their Keenness for the Sport, there being not the like in the World for Speed; so that _England_ furnishes almost all the Nobility in _Europe_ with Horses and Dogs, as the King of _Denmark_ does with Falcons.

The Swiftness of the _English_ Horses is the Reason that there are Horse-Races every Year at a Place called _Newmarket_; and this really is what Travellers may say is worth seeing. These Races continue for several Days successively, and infinitely surpass those which are seen in _Italy_. They are run round a large Plain. Two Horses mounted by Jockeys contend which shall run fastest. The Riders are weighed, and to the lightest of them they give that Weight which he wants of the other. They ride without a Saddle, and with such Velocity, that the Eye can scarce keep Pace with 'em. Upon these Occasions, Wagers are laid of several thousand Pounds Sterling: And it seems to be a Festival celebrated to the Honour of _Plutus_, the God of Riches; for the Jockey that wins the Prize is sure to be refreshed with a Shower of Guineas, every one crouding to reward him. Such is the Custom of the _English_, who not only pay those handsomely who contribute to their Pleasures, but load them with Presents. This is to be seen at all the Prize-sightings, Rope-dancings, Tumblings, and such Diversions, where every one throws down Money upon the Stage to them that play their Part best. The Actors at the Opera and the Play-houses have also Gratuities, besides their Salaries; for once a Year, every Performer has a Benefit-Night, as they call it, which is the Surplus Money then taken, over and above the Charges of the House; and if the Person be a Favourite of the Town, as Notice is given by Play-Bills pasted up, for whose Benefit the Play is to be acted, People send for more Tickets than they shall make use of, for the Party's Encouragement. This Generosity of the _English_ towards those who give them Pleasure, extends in a particular Manner towards their Mistresses, for whom they think nothing too fine, nor too dear. Thus, 'tis not to Assiduity that they are willing to be obliged for the Favours which they receive, but to their Money, and their Presents; wherein they differ widely from certain Abbés of _Rome_, of whom no less than five or six club for the keeping of one Mistress.

These Abbés put me in mind of a numerous Tribe here, called _Chaplains_, whose bonny Countenances are a pretty evident Proof, that at the Reformation of the Church of _England_, their Revenues were not very much impaired. Whether these Gentlemen are more sober than our Clergy, I know not; but by Appearances I am almost tempted to think, that they have the same Thirst for Honour and Wealth, the same Cares and Uneasiness; in fine, that they are Men alike. The Difference is, that the _English_ are subject to the Laws, that their Passions are kept within Bounds, and that the Laity are not so superstitious as to take them for Oracles. 'Tis said that they make admirable Sermons, the constant Tenor of which is to reform Mankind, and to guide them in the Path of Virtue. They read them instead of pronouncing them by Heart, which prevents them from falling into that extravagant Gesticulation, and those mad Rants and Enthusiasm, which commonly irritate more than edify. But I think I have said enough to you of the Clergy, when I had undertaken to give you a farther Account of the _English_ Diversions. Those of the Vulgar are, the Battles of Animals, Prize-fighters, Wrestlers, and in a Word, all Manner of Diversions that contribute to the shedding of Blood; for here, Wounds go for nothing, and Death itself is but little dreaded. I fansy the _English_ are descended from _Mutius Scævola_, because, like that _Roman_, they despise Pain. Among the Pleasures of the Populace there are some too that are mixed with Insolence; of which I saw an Instance a few Days ago in St. _James_'s Park. A Man had laid a Wager, that he would run round the Park in so many Minutes; and that he might be the less incumbered in his Race, he stripped himself stark naked, so that his Hand served him for a Fig-leaf. In this State of Nature he travers'd along the Mall, thro' an infinite Concourse of People. The Ladies, astonish'd at such a Sight, knew not how to keep their Countenances: Some turned their Heads aside, others hid their Faces with their Fans, but they all made a Row, as well as the Men, to let him pass by. After he had finished his Race, he gravely put on his Cloaths, near _Whitehall_, where he left 'em; and as he had won the Wager, abundance of People, instead of checking him for his Insolence, threw him Money. Judge by this, if any People are so good-natur'd and happy as the _English_.

Among the Pleasures of this Nation, I must not forget to mention the Parties they make for the Country. This the _English_ set a great Value upon, and really well they may; for indeed their Country is very beautiful. It produces them every thing but Wine. Their Fields have always a fresh Verdure, the Gentlemens Country-Seats are superb, and in the Country the _English_ live with the Grandeur of Noblemen, whereas at _London_ they live for most part like mere private Men.

Nothing can be more agreeable to the Eye, than the Suburbs of _London_, particularly along the _Thames_. I cannot conceive how a Native of _England_, and one too that has a Fortune to depend on, can resolve to leave these Regions, as a great many _English_ nevertheless do, who prefer Countries to which Nature has not been so kind, before their own. I confess, that if I had one thousand Pounds Sterling a Year in _England_, I would renounce the most shining Offers of Fortune elsewhere; for the Climate here is mild, without that excessive Heat or Cold which is so troublesome in other Parts of the World: And indeed, 'tis for this Cause that the Fruits here are not so kindly as elsewhere, and that the Grape does not grow here for the Production of Wine; but then, this Defect is supplied by the Grapes of _Spain_ and _Portugal_, which are imported here in Abundance.

One of the most agreeable Prospects in the Country here, is to see the happy Condition of the Peasants, who are all well lodged, well clad, and well fed. Their Lot is happier than that of many Gentlemen in certain Provinces that I know. Here is nothing of that excessive Subordination which is demanded by the Grandees of other Countries. A Gentleman who makes a Visit to a Lord, is receiv'd by him as his Equal, without being made sensible of the Difference that has happened betwixt them on the Score of Birth. Nevertheless, the great Men are very much honoured here; for while they are civil, every body strives to pay them all Sorts of Deference, but nobody thinks he is born to be insulted by them.

The Great Men here, as well as in _France_, don't scruple to marry Women of inferior Families. Indeed there ought to be a great Distinction made between the _English_ Merchant and the Merchants of other Countries. The _English_ are often descended from the greatest Families in the Kingdom, and we have seen some of them go from behind their Compter to a Peerage, when by Right of Succession they rise from Cadets to be the eldest of their Families. Thus, when a Nobleman marries a Merchant's Daughter, she sometimes proves his Cousin, or a Lady of a distinguish'd Family; whereas in _France_, she is always the Daughter of a Plebeian.

These, Sir, are the few Remarks that I have made upon this Country, and I wish they may entertain you. As I propose to make some longer Stay here, I may hereafter send you farther Observations on what occurs. In the mean time, continue me in the Honour of your Remembrance, and be thoroughly persuaded, that no Person in the World is more particularly than I am, &c.

An Alphabetical INDEX

TO THE

SECOND VOLUME.

A

_Abbés_, _Italian_, 69, 70.
Five or six club for one Mistress, 469.

_Abbesses_ that preach'd, bless'd and confess'd, 195.

_Academy, French._
Its Invitation to the Stage-Players, and their Return of the Favour,
266, 267.

_Acquaviva_, Cardinal, 4, 44, 55.

---- _Charles_, Pr. of, 136.

_Acunha, Lewis de_, 406.

_Agasias_ the _Ephesian_, 49.

_Agnus Dei_'s, their Fabrication and Distribution, Origin and
Consecration, 99, _&c._

_Agrippa_, Emperor, 7.

_Agrippina_, the Mother of _Nero_, 332.

_Aignan_, (_St._) Duke _de_, 85, 123.

AIX LA CHAPELLE, _t._ 327.
Reliques exposed there, 329.

_Aix_ Parliament.
The _Jansenists_ with the Members hang'd, 194.
An Epigram, making them greater Sinners than _Pilate_, _ibid._

_Alacoque Maria_, made a Saint by a Bishop, 202.

_Alais_, Count de, 217.

_Albano_ Cardinal, 15, 16, 37, 78, 88.

---- Painter, 359.

_Albemarle_, Earl and Countess, 407, 408.

_Alberoni_'s Proposal to the Cardinals, to take away the Franchises of
Churches, 75.
_Clement_ XIth's Design to deprive him of the Hat, 88.

_Albert_, Archduke of _Austria_, 313.

_Albert the Great_, Bishop of _Ratisbon_, 327.

_Albert_, Cardinal of _Brandenbourg_, 336, 342.

_Albin, St._ Abbé of, 291.

_Alcmaer_, t. 392.

_Alegre_, Marshal, 339.

_Alexander Farnese_, 39.

_Alexander_ VI. Pope, 97.

ALEXANDRIA _de la Paille_, t. 151.

_Aliberti_, Count, his Theatre, 65.

_Alincourt_, Marquis _de_, 174, 175.
Remarkable Preferment of his Son to the See of _Lyons_, 175, 176.

_Almanza_ Victory, to what ascrib'd, 259.

_Alstein_, a _German_ Minister, 382.

_Altelli_, General of the _Corsicans_, 150.

_Alva_, Duke of, 317.

_Ambiorix_, King, 321.

_Ambrun_, Council of, 240.

_Amelia_, Princess, 448.

_Amende honorable_, Punishment, what, 433.

_Amerongen_, Brigadier _de_.
The Token he gave of his Love for a Lady, at the Hazard of his Life,
320.

AMSTERDAM, _t._ 317, 371.

_Anabaptist_, _Dutch_, his Zeal for Comedy, 410, 411.

ANDERNACH, _t._ 348.

_Angelo, Michael_, 33, 37.

_St. Angelo_, Castle, 31.

_Angervilliers_, M. _de_, 238, 239.

_Anne_ of _Austria_, 198.

---- of _Bavaria_, the Palatine, 218.

---- Queen of _England_, Reflection on her Statue at St. _Paul_'s, 433.

---- Princess Royal of _England_, 448.

_Anna Maria Frances_ of _Saxe-Lawenburg_, Duchess of _Tuscany_, 135.

_Antin_, Duke of, 188, 199.
His Son, 226.

_Antonine_ Pillar, 3.

_Antoninus Caracalla_, Emperor, 38.

_Antoninus_ and _Faustina_'s Temple at _Rome_, 35.

ANTWERP, _t._ 317.

_Ara Ubiorum_ of the Ancients, 338.

_Archduchess_, Governess of the _Netherlands_, 299, to 302, 304.

_Ardicinio_, Cardinal, 87.

_Aremberg_, Duke _de_, (just made Generalissimo of the Imperial Forces
in the _Austrian Netherlands_) 297, 298, 299, 306.

_Argenson_, M. _de_, Keeper of the Seals, 210, 236, 245, 385.

_Armagnac_, M. _de_, 251.

_Armand_ his extraordinary Adventures, 414, _&c._

_Armenonville_, M. _de_, 236.

_Arno_, R. 141.

_Ascanio_, the _Spanish_ Minister, 132.

_Asfeldt_, Baron _de_, 339.

_Asperen_, Count _de_, 403.

_Assassins_, Sanctuary at _Rome_, 75, 76.

_Assemblies_, at _Rome_, 69, 70, 71.

_Astalli_, Cardinal, his Elopement when the Pope went to deprive him of
his Hat, 93 to 95.

ASTI, _t._ 151.

_Astrologer_, _Turkish_, his Prophecy relating to himself, Father,
Grandfather, and Great-Grandfather, 140.

_Athlone_, Earl of, 366.

_Aubigny_, _Theodore de_, Admiral, the famous Protestant and Author,
264.

---- _Frances de_, his Grand-daughter, who was Marchioness _de
Maintenon_, 262 to 265.
Her Family, 264.

_Audenarde_, Battle, to what the _French_ ascribe the Loss of it, 153.

_Audiences_, the Ceremony of those given by the Pope, 55, _&c._

_August_, Snow in that Month, 13.

_Augustus_, Emperor, 7.

---- King of _Poland_. The Countess of _Wartemberg_'s Attack upon him,
410.

_Auricular Confession_, why abolish'd throughout the _East_, 195.

_Author_, the, his Amour with an old Coquet of the pious Sort, 286,
_&c._
---- At what Age he could like to be a _Frenchman_, and at what an
_Englishman_, 455.
---- His Father's Death, 321.

_Auverquerque, Maurice_, Count _de_, 412, 413.

AUXERRE, _t._ 183.

_Ayrolles_, M. _de_, 405.

B

_Bacharach_, Wine, 352.

_Baden_, Princess, marry'd to the Duke of _Orleans_, 206.
Treaty there, 255.
How Prince _Lewis_ was surpriz'd by M. _Villars_, 256.

_Bagnolet_ Village, 206.

_Baker_ castrated by his jealous Wife, 183.

_Balbi, James_, a _Genoese_ Nobleman, 146.

_Balls_ at the _Haymarket_, magnificent, 465.

_Banchieri_, Cardinal, 16, 18, 44, 54, 112.

_Bank Bills_, French, 245 to 248.

---- Of _Amsterdam_, 380.

_Barberini_ Family, more barbarous than the Barbarians, 7.

---- Cardinal, 15, 78, 96.

---- Palace, 40, 64.

_Barcelona_ reduc'd, 257.

_Bareith_, Prince of, 404.

_Baron_, a _French_ Comedian and Coxcomb, 200.

_Barre, John_, his extraordinary Adventures, 414, _&c._

_Barricades_ of _Paris_ erected, 283.

_Bavaria_, Elector of, 214, 303.

_Beaufort_, Count _de_, 323.

_Beaujolois_, Mademoiselle _de_, 208.

_Becker_, M. _de_, Chancellor, 363.

_Belisarius_'s Statue, 48.

_Belle-Isle_, Count _de_, 210, 217, 227.

_Benedict_ XIII. Pope, 26. His Credulity abus'd by the Cardinals,
particularly _Coscia_; and his great Humility and Sanctity, 26 to
30.
A Reflection on his Ministers, 114.

_Benefices_, Instances of Pluralities, 337, 342.

_Benefit-Nights_ at the Theatre, 468.

BENSBERG, _t._ 357.

_Bentivoglio_, Cardinal, 4, 13, 14, 85.
His Dissatisfaction with the Emperor about _Parma_, 120.
Death and Successor, 130.

---- Marquis, 14.

_Berg_, Country, 361.

_Bernini Lorenzo_, Architect, 6, 8.

---- The Sculptor, 9, 34, 48, 101.

_Berry_, Duke of, 206.

_Berwic, James_, (late) Duke. His Parentage and Preferments, 257 to
259.
His too great Obsequiousness to the Regent and Court of _France_,
258, 259.
His Death and Successor, 259.
His great Aversion to the _English_, and Ingratitude to the King of
_Spain_, 258, 259.

_Beverwert_, M. _de_, 401.

_Bichi_, Cardinal, 116, 117, 118.

BINGEN, _t._ 352.

_Binger-Loch_, a Cascade upon the _Rhine_, 351.

_Bissi_, Cardinal, 14.

_Blanc_, M. _le_, Secretary, 210, 227, 238.

_Blaspiel_, Baron and Baroness _de_, 363, 364.

_Bleickert_ Wine, 348.

_Blood Divine_, suck'd by the Pope, 21.

_Bodies Human_, a Thought concerning them, 272.

_Boerhaave_, Professor, 397.

_Boetselaars_, 412.

_Bois_, Cardinal _de_, 230, 291, 292.
Story of his Marriage, 293.
His brutish Conversation, and Habit of Swearing, 294, 295.
His Tomb, and Remark upon it, 295.

BOLOGNA, _t._ 129, _&c._

_Bolognetti_, Cardinal, 37.

---- Countess, 69.

_Boniface_ VIII. Pope. His Order about the Cardinals Robes, 86.

BONN, _t._ 337.

_Bonnet_, (_St._) an Officer, 338.

_Bookselling Trade_, the Centre of it, 386.

_Bookbinder_ and his Wife, Suicides, 270 to 273.

_Bork_, M. _de_, 363.

_Borghese_, Prince, his Palace, 46, 48, 49.
His Family the Favourites of St. _Peter_, 47.

_Borghese, Scipio_, Cardinal, 47, 48, 49.

_Borgia_, Cardinal, his Resignation of the Hat, 87.

_---- Casar_, Duke _de Valentinois_, his Contrivance to poison a
Cardinal, like to have been fatal to himself, 97, 98.

_Borgo_, Marquis _del_, 157, 161.

_Bossu_, Cardinal _de_, 318.

_Bot_, General, 362.

_Boufflers_, Marshal, 253, 315.

_Bougir_'s House at _Aix la Chapelle_, 331.

_Bourbon_, Duke of, 182, 186, 207, 290, 291.
How he lost an Eye, 208.
Made Superintendant of the King's Education, and Prime Minister, 209,
210, 221.
Displac'd, 211, 226, 230.
His Marriage, 212.

---- Duchess of, 216, 217.

_Brandenburg Anspach_, Margrave, 446.

_Breteuil_, M. 210, 238, 293.

_Brignole_, Messieurs, of _Genoa_, 147.

BRILLE, _t._ 427.

_Brioche, Swiss_, burnt for a Conjurer, 385.

_Brosse_, M. _de_, 405.

_Brouffel_ arrested by _Anne_ of _Austria_, 283.

BRUGES, _t._ 312.

_Bruhl_, Seat of the Elector of _Cologne_, 340.

_Brunette_, Fort _de la_, 169.

_Brunswic_, Duchess of, 218.

_---- Lunenburg, Antony-Ulric_, Duke, 361.

BRUSSELS, _t._ 298.
Its Trade, and the Pleasures of the Court and the City, 308, 317.

_Brutus_'s Tragedy by _Voltaire_, 265, 266, 467.

_Bucentaur_ of _Venice_, the Oath taken by her Captain, 315.

_Buckingham_ House, 437.

---- Duchess Dowager, _ib._

_Bullen, Anne_, Queen, 438.

_Buonarota, Mich. Angelo_, 6, 24.

_Buoncompagno_, Cardinal, his Comparison of the Pope to the Holy
Sepulchre, 29.
His Funeral, 107.

_Burgomasters, Dutch_, 376.

_Burgundians_, their Character, 182.

_Burgundy_, Wine, counterfeited, 348.

_Burgundy_, Duke, his Honour vindicated, 154.
How much he is still venerated in _France_, 204.

_Bussy, Rabutin_'s Letters, 182, 443.

C

_Cadiere_, Mademoiselle _la_, her Affair with _Girard_ her Father
Confessor, 193.
Her Recantation of the Charge against him, 194.

_Cadogan_, Earl and Countess, 409.

_Calf_, M. disowns his Son by reason of his Dress, 390.

CAMBRAY, _t._ 291.
Congress, 295, 296.

_Campagna di Roma_, infested by Locusts, 41.

_Campo Vaccino_, Square, at _Rome_, 34.

_Canals_, _Canards_, and _Canaille_ 428.

_Canons_, where they have the Title of Counts, 180.

_Capitol_, of _Rome_, 33.

_Caponi_, Marquis _de_, 346.

_Carache, Annibal_, Painter, 39, 359.

_Caraffa, John Peter_, Cardinal, 126.

_Cardinals in Petto_, what, 82.
The slavish Life of the Cardinals, with all their Dignity, 83.
Their Manner of going Abroad, 83, 84.
Their Dress, and a Vindication of 'em from Luxury, 84.
The Vanity of their Pretension to an Equality with crown'd Heads, 85.
Their Manner of Visiting, and their several Orders, 86.
Why their Hats are Red, and their Robes and Bonnets Scarlet, _ib._
How they came to the Title of Eminency, _ib._
Who the greatest Pushers for the Hat, and who have resign'd it, 87.
Their Consinement to the Dominions of the Holy See, 90, 93.
Why they always take their own Liquor with them, 97.

_Carignan_, Prince of, 201.

_Carlos_, Don, his Journey to _Tuscany_, 139, 233, 318.
A Prophecy of _Nostradamus_ apply'd to him, 139.

_Carnival_, at _Rome_, 64.

_Caroline_, Princess, 448.

_Carolis_, Cardinal, 37.

_Carpentier_, a _French_ Refugee in _Holland_, 429.

_Carpinetti_, Duke, 42.