Chapter XVII: Part 17

_Two Entrées._--Cutlets a la Provençale--Sweetbreads larded in any
White Sauce.

_Two Vegetables._--Greens--Kale--Potatoes on the Sideboard.

SECOND COURSE.

_Two Roasts._--Partridges--Wild Ducks. Jelly of
Fruit--Cheesecakes--Meringue à la Crême--Vegetable--French Salad on
the Sideboard.

_Removes._--Ice Pudding--Beignet Soufflé. _Dessert_ of eleven
dishes.

The following is one for a birthday party, which generally consists of twenty persons:--

FIRST COURSE.

Two Soups--Two Fish.

_Removes._--Haunch of Mutton--Broiled Capons à l'Ecarlate.

_Flancs._--Fricandeau of Veal--Currie of Fowl.

_Entrées._--Fillets of Beef, sauce Tomate--Cutlets Soubise--Oyster
Patties, or Little Vol-au-Vent; Croquettes of Veal or Fowl.[10]

SECOND COURSE.

Wild Ducks--Guinea Fowl larded--Charlotte Russe--Punch Jelly,
Crusts of Fruit--Flanc Meringue--Apple with Rice--Scolloped
Oysters--Mayonnaise of Fowl--Sea Kale or Asparagus.

_Removes._--Turban of Condé Glacée--Cheese Soufflé à la Vanille.
_Dessert_ of nineteen dishes.

The bills of fare for our small evening parties, say thirty persons, are as follows; everything is cold, although I know that the fashion has been progressing towards having hot removes.

Our table on those occasions is, as you know, in the form of a horseshoe, which, in my opinion, is the most sociable after that of a round one, and upon the sociability of the supper depends in a great measure the success of the party. In the centre, and at the head of the table, I place a large Grouse-pie, the same as Nos. 249, 285, of which, by my recommendation, everybody partakes; I then on each of the wings have Fowls, Lobster Salads, Mayonnaises of Fowl, Ham, Tongue, cut in slices, and dished over parsley, ornamented with Aspic Jelly; and on the sideboard I have a fine piece of Sirloin of Beef, plain roasted, or an Aitch-Bone of Beef, or Fillet of Veal. Should there be no game, I have a Turkey or Fowls en Galantine, instead of the Grouse-pie, or if game is plentiful, I have less poultry, and add roast Pheasants--mind, not fowls with black legs larded, and a pheasant's tail put to them, but real ones,--or Partridges or Grouse, or a fine Salad of Game.

With the Sweets I generally place about twelve--four on each table, that is 4 Jellies, 2 Creams, 2 Bavaroises, 4 Iced Cabinet Puddings, and 4 Raised Dishes of small Pastry, all of which are artistically disposed upon the table.

The fruits are likewise placed on the table: they consist of simple Compotes, 6 of various kinds and 6 of Dried Fruit, Biscuits, Wafers and Cossacks, which last are getting much out of fashion, but are very amusing.

The following is the Bill of Fare for Mr. B.'s Birthday Party, for which he allows me £15, with which I find everything in the shape of refreshments, with the exception of wine; it is--

One Raised Pie--Two Mayonnaises of Fowl--Two Lobster Salads--One Piece of Roast Beef--Four Dishes of Fowl--Two Dishes of Pheasant--Four Dishes of Tongue--Four Dishes of Ham--Four Jellies with Fruit--Two Creams with Noyeau--Two Flancs with Apple Meringue--Two Iced Cabinet Puddings--Two Puddings à la Eloise--Six Various Pastry--Eight Various Compotes--Four Pièces Montées in China with Bonbons, Cossacks, &c.--Four of Fruit, as Pears, Grapes, &c.--Four of Dried Fruit, &c.--Four of Biscuits, &c.

This perhaps may appear extravagant, but we always have them, some country friends stopping a few days with us, so that I manage to make the best of everything, and make my week's account look very well. We sometimes have as many as sixty on an evening.

Our Children's Parties are as follows, there are generally about fifty present:

16 Dishes of Sandwiches. 4 Dishes of Lamb. 4 Dishes of Ham. 4 do.
of Slices of Beef. 4 do. of Tongue. 6 do. of Fowls. 10 Dishes of
Slices of Galantine of Veal. 1 Dish of Dressed Beef. 24 Dishes of
Various Pastry, Custards, Jellies, Bonbons, &c.

But I remember when in business, on those occasions we only used to have a large quantity of Sandwiches and Patties, and used to amuse the children by labelling the Dishes as Sandwiches of Peacock's Tongues, Patties of Partridge's Eyes, &c., and also a large quantity of plain Sweets; and at that period Mr. B.'s birthday party was not so extensive or _recherché_ as at present. It consisted of something like the following:

A Roast Turkey--2 Dishes of Fowls--1 Ham--2 Pigeon Pies--1 Piece of Boiled Beef--4 Lobsters--4 Salads--4 Jellies--4 Tarts--4 of Preserved Fruit, &c.--4 of Pastry; with about twelve of various kinds of Fruit, &c.

You will have seen by the previous Bills of Fare that I have not at all encroached upon the high-class cookery, they being selected from the receipts I have given you; in order that you may see the difference, I inclose the Bill of Fare, of a dinner given by--Bass, Esq., M. P., at the Reform Club, the other day, and a copy of yesterday's _Post_, containing one given in the country. You will find that the dishes mentioned in these Bills of Fare are not to be found in our receipts.

REFORM CLUB,
_7 Juillet, 1849._ _Dîner pour 18 Personnes._

Rissoletes à la Pompadour.
Petites Croquantes aux oeufs de Rougets.

Rissoletes à la Pompadour.
Petites Croquantes aux oeufs de Rougets.

Deux Potages.
One Thick Turtle.
One Clear Ditto.

* * * * *

Deux Poissons.
_Crimped Salmon_, Turbot
en Matelote Normande. à la Richelieu.

* * * * *

Deux Relevés.
La Hanche de Venaison aux haricots verts.
Les Poulardes en Diadême.

* * * * *

Six Entrées.
Vol-au-Vent de Foies gras à la Talleyrand.
Côtelettes d'Agneau demi Provençale.
Petits Canetons Canaris aux jeunes légumes glacées.
Noix de Veau demi grasse à la purée de concombres.
Ortolans à la Vicomtesse.
Aiguillettes de petits Poussins à la Banquière

* * * * *

Deux Rôtis.
Les _Turkey Poults_ piqués et bardés,
garnis de Cailles aux feuilles de vignes.
Les Jeunes Levrauts au jus de groseilles.

* * * * *

Huit Entremets.

Gelée a l'eau de vie Flanc d'Abricôts
de Dantzick. aux Liqueurs.
Aspic de Homard Quartiers d'Artichaux
à la Gelée. à la Vénitienne.
Petits Pois Gâteau Milanais
à l'Anglaise. au Parmesan.
Pain de Pêches Bombe Glacée
au Noyau. au Café Moka,

* * * * *

Jambon en surprise glacé
à la Vanille.
_Pudding_ à la Méphistophiles.

A. SOYER.

FESTIVITIES AT GRENDON HALL.

A series of festivities are taking place at the seat of Sir George Chetwynd, Bart., Grendon Hall, Atherstone, Warwickshire, to celebrate the christening of Sir George's infant grandson. The christening took place on Tuesday, at Grendon church, and in the evening a grand dinner was given in celebration of the event, under the able superintendence of M. Alexis Soyer. As the dinner, which was provided for twenty persons, was of a very _recherché_ description, we subjoin the bill of fare.

Deux Potages.
One of Clear Turtle.
Ditto à la Nivernaise.

* * * * *

Deux Poissons.

Crimped Severn Salmon Turbot
à la Régence. à la Cardinal.

* * * * *

Deux Relevés.

La Hanche de Venaison. Deux Poulardes à la Nelson.

* * * * *

Rissolettes de Foie
gras à la Pompadour.

Rissolettes de Foie
gras à la Pompadour.

Six Entrées.

Les Ortolans à la Vicomtesse.
Epigramme d'Agneau à la purée de concombres.
Grenadins de Veau aux petits pois.
Filets de Caneton au jus d'orange.
Côtelettes de Mouton à la Provençale.
Turban de Volaille à la Périgord.

* * * * *

Deux Rôtis.

Cailles bardées aux feuilles de vignes.
Gelinottes des Ardennes.

* * * * *

Huit Entremets.

Turban de Meringues Pain de Fruit
aux Pistaches. aux Pêches.
Galantine Croûtades d'Artichaux
à la Volière. à l'Indienne.
Vegetable Marrow Miroton de Homard
à la Béchamel. à la Gelée.
Bavaroise Mousseuse Blanche Crême
à l'Ananas. au Marasquin.

* * * * *

Ices. Deux Relevés. St. James's
Pine Apple Hure de Sanglier en surprise glacé Cake,
and à la Vanille. the first
Strawberry. Petits Biscuits soufflés à la Crême. ever made.

After dinner M. Soyer had the honor of presenting the youthful heir the proof copy of his new work on Cookery.

_Morning Post, July 26, 1849._

LETTER XX

A NEW ALIMENT.

Bifrons Villa.

Here, dear Eloise, is an entirely new aliment, which has never yet
been introduced into this country. A semi-epicure of our
acquaintance, on returning from his visit to the National Guard of
France, presented me with a pound of it, which he had purchased in
Paris; but even there, said he, it is almost in its infancy; you
may fancy, if I were not anxious of making an immediate trial of
it; but before I give you the receipt how to use it, let me tell
you I have found it most delicious. Mr. B. has not yet tasted it,
being for a week in the country, but I am confident he will like
it, especially for breakfast: but the puzzle is, after my pound is
used, how we are to get more? Time, I suppose, will teach us. It
appears that we are indebted for it to a celebrated French
gentleman, M. le Docteur Lamolte, the inventor of the electric
light, who ingeniously, though oddly, named it Cho-ca, being a
scientific composition of _chocolat_ and _café_, the alliance of
which balancing admirably their excellence and virtue, and partly
correcting their evils, the first being rather irritable, the
second heavy. But I think, if my recollection serves me rightly,
the idea of this compound must have originated from that great
French philosopher, M. de Voltaire, who constantly, for his
breakfast, partook of half café-au-lait and half chocolate, which
were served at the same time in separate vessels in a boiling
state, and poured from each slowly, about eighteen inches in
elevation from his cup, which, he said, made it extremely light and
digestible.

Years after, that still more extraordinary man, Napoleon Bonaparte,
became so partial to it, that he made a constant use of it, and it
has often been remarked by those who surrounded his person, that
after the great excitement and fatigue of a battle he has often
partaken of two or three cups, which seemed to restore all the
strength and energy which used to characterize that great man; on
ordinary occasions one cup would suffice him, but served more _à la
militaire_, not being poured so scientifically as did the Fernaise
philosopher.

The approval of this mixed beverage by two such eminent characters
speaks volumes in favor of the Cho-ca, which ought to be
immediately introduced in England. It will also, no doubt, interest
you to learn that the first cup of coffee ever introduced in Europe
was made and presented to Louis XIV, at his magnificent palace of
Versailles, by the Ambassador from the Sublime Porte in the year
1664, when the noble potentate, whose palate was as delicate as he
was himself great, pronounced it excellent; and immediately
perceived the immense advantage it would be to introduce such a
delicacy into France as food, which a short time after took place,
and was very successfully received there; also the chocolate, which
is made from cacao, was first introduced to the Cardinal Mazarin,
who, having partook of the first cup like Louis XIV. did of the
coffee, and not a worse judge than his illustrious master,
remunerated with a handsome reward its inventor. It is much to be
regretted that such interesting and useful subjects have never yet
attracted the attention of our great Painters, instead of
continually tracing on innumerable yards of canvass the horrors of
war, the destruction of a fleet by fire and water, the plague, the
storm, the earthquake, or an eruption and destruction of a city by
an avalanche or an inundation; if we cannot do without those
painful historical reminiscences, why not add to those mournful
collections a group of Louis XIV. and his court at Versailles,
where he, magnificently dressed, was receiving from the hands of
the said Pacha, not a cup of coffee, but a branch of that plant
covered with its precious berries; and why not also, as a pendant,
Mazarin surrounded by his satellites, taking the first cup of
chocolate; or the characteristic Voltaire pouring a cup of Cho-ca
to Frederic the Great in his tent on the field of Potsdam? These
subjects seem to have been entirely neglected in being immortalized
on canvass, why? because they have never done harm or evil to any
one; but, on the contrary, have, are, and ever will prove to be,
among the greatest boons ever conferred upon humanity: it would
also engrave in our minds, as well as in our history, to what
mortals we are indebted for the importation and introduction of
such important productions, which daily constitute a part of our
comforts, and have conferred an everlasting benefit on mankind;
but, as usual, dear Eloise, you will no doubt reproach me for
having so much enthusiasm; however, as on this subject you have
been tolerably quiet lately, I not only here inclose you the
receipt, but also two of the thin round cakes of this new aliment,
the Cho-ca, which will produce two cups by making it as follows:--

880. _Cho-ca._--Scrape or grate it; put a pint of milk in a stewpan or chocolate-pot, and place it on the fire, with two ounces of sugar, boil it, put the Cho-ca in it, and stir it well for two minutes, and serve.

ON CARVING.

You reproach me for not having said a word about carving; I have
not done so, as I think that is an accomplishment which our sex
need not study, but at the same time it is well to know a little of
it. It is rather difficult to give you a correct description
without drawings, but a few general remarks may be useful.

Cut Beef, Veal, Ham, Tongue, and Breasts of Poultry, with a sharp
knife, very thin; Mutton, Lamb, and Pork rather thicker.

Never rise from your seat to carve; never cut across the grain of
the meat, that is, not across the ribs of beef, as I have seen
some persons do, and Mr. B. tells me is often done at clubs, but it
is only those do so who do not know how to carve or appreciate the
true flavor of the meat.

Never place a fork through the back of a fowl, in order to carve
the leg and wings, but run the knife gently down each side the
breast, detaching the leg and wing at the same time, which is
greatly facilitated by the use of the Tendon Separator--one of
which I purchased at Bramah's, in Piccadilly; it is the greatest
boon ever conferred on a bad carver: the directions for using it
are given with it. If it was more generally used, there would be no
more birds flying across the table in the faces of guests; no more
turkeys deposited in a lady's or gentleman's lap; no more splashing
of gravy to spoil satin dresses; but all would be divided with the
greatest facility, and in the most elegant manner, and the poultry
would look much better at table.

Never cut up the body of poultry at table, that should always be
left; but game should be cut up, as many epicures prefer the
backbone. For a sirloin of beef the under part of the loin should
always be cut when hot, and the upper part cut straight from the
backbone towards the outside of the ribs, by this plan you will not
spoil the appearance of the joint.

Ribs of Beef should be carved in the same way, cutting thin and
slanting.

Round of Beef: cut a slice half an inch thick from the outside, and
then carve thin slices, with a little fat.

Aitch-bone, the same.

Fillet of Veal, the same.

Loin of Veal, carve as the Sirloin of Beef, serving some of the
kidney, and fat to each person.

Shoulder of Veal, begin from the knuckle, cut thin and slanting.

Saddle of Mutton will, if properly carved, serve a great many
persons; instead of cutting a long slice the whole length, put your
knife under the meat and cut it away from the bone, then cut it
like thin chops, serving lean and fat together; according to the
usual plan, a saddle of mutton will serve but few people, and the
flavor of the meat is not so good as when served this way.

Necks and Loins: the bones should be severed by a small meat-saw,
and not a chopper, and the bone cut through when serving, and carve
slanting.

Haunches are usually carved by making a cut near the knuckle and
cutting a slice from that through the loin; but by a plan I have
adopted, I find that the meat eats better, and the joint goes
farther. I carve it like the leg and saddle, that is, I cut a slice
out of the leg part and a slice from the loin, and serve together.
This is more economical, but would not do for venison.

Lamb.--For Leg and Shoulders, proceed as for Mutton. The Ribs, when
well prepared and the bones properly separated, carve into cutlets,
and serve with a piece of the brisket.

Quarter of Lamb: the ribs should be sawed through, and the bones
disjointed previous to cooking. The shoulder should be then nicely
removed, the seasoning added; then divide the ribs and serve one
part of the brisket to each person.

Pork: proceed like the Mutton.

In carving a Ham, remove a thick slice, of about one inch, flat cut
slantways from the knuckle-end--a Tongue, begin three inches from
the tip, and cut thin slanting slices.

LETTER No. XXI

THE SEPTUAGENARIAN EPICURE.

MY DEAR ELOISE,--Having now arrived at the conclusion of our
labors, during which you have in many instances thought me rather
severe, and perhaps too _exigeant_ in my remarks, especially about
the selection, preparation, and cooking of food in general, which
even to the last I must maintain, that for want of judgment and a
little care, the greatest part of the nutrition of our aliments is
often destroyed, which constitutes a considerable waste, being of
no good to any one, but an evil to everybody; and when you consider
the monstrous quantity of food our fragile bodies consume in this
sublunary sphere during the course of our life, the truth of my
observation will be more apparent, and make you agree with me that
in every instance people ought really to devote more time, care,
and personal attention to their daily subsistence, it being the
most expensive department through life of human luxury. I shall,
for example, give you a slight and correct idea of it, which I am
confident you never before conceived. For this I shall propose to
take seventy years of the life of an epicure, beyond which age many
of that class of "bon vivants" arrive, and even above eighty, still
in the full enjoyment of degustation, &c., (for example,
Talleyrand, Cambacérès, Lord Sefton, &c.;) if the first of the said
epicures when entering on the tenth spring of his extraordinary
career, had been placed on an eminence, say, the top of Primrose
hill, and had had exhibited before his infantine eyes the enormous
quantity of food his then insignificant person would destroy before
he attained his seventy-first year,--first, he would believe it
must be a delusion; then, secondly, he would inquire, where the
money could come from to purchase so much luxurious extravagance?
But here I shall leave the pecuniary expenses on one side, which a
man of wealth can easily surmount when required. So now, dearest,
for the extraordinary fact: imagine on the top of the
above-mentioned hill a rushlight of a boy just entering his tenth
year, surrounded with the recherché provision and delicacies
claimed by his rank and wealth, taking merely the medium
consumption of his daily meals. By closely calculating he would be
surrounded and gazed at by the following number of quadrupeds,
birds, fishes, &c.:--By no less than 30 oxen, 200 sheep, 100
calves, 200 lambs, 50 pigs; in poultry, 1200 fowls, 300 turkeys,
150 geese, 400 ducklings, 263 pigeons; 1400 partridges, pheasants,
and grouse; 600 woodcocks and snipes; 600 wild ducks, widgeon, and
teal; 450 plovers, ruffes, and reeves; 800 quails, ortolans, and
dotterels, and a few guillemôts and other foreign birds; also 500
hares and rabbits, 40 deer, 120 Guinea fowl, 10 peacocks, and 360
wild fowl. In the way of fish, 120 turbot, 140 salmon, 120 cod, 260
trout, 400 mackerel, 300 whitings, 800 soles and slips, 400
flounders, 400 red mullet, 200 eels, 150 haddocks, 400 herrings,
5000 smelts, and some hundred thousand of those delicious silvery
whitebait, besides a few hundred species of fresh-water fishes. In
shell-fish, 20 turtle, 30,000 oysters, 1500 lobsters or crabs,
300,000 prawns, shrimps, sardines and anchovies. In the way of
fruit, about 500 lbs. of grapes, 360 lbs. of pine-apples, 600
peaches, 1400 apricots, 240 melons, and some hundred thousand
plums, greengages, apples, pears, and some millions of cherries,
strawberries, raspberries, currants, mulberries, and an abundance
of other small fruit, viz., walnuts, chestnuts, dry figs and plums.
In vegetables of all kinds, 5475 pounds weight, and about 2434¾
pounds of butter, 684 pounds of cheese, 21,000 eggs, 800 do.
plovers'. Of bread, 4½ tons, half a ton of salt and pepper, near
2½ tons of sugar; and, if he had happened to be a covetous boy,
he could have formed a fortification or moat round the said hill
with the liquids he would have to partake of to facilitate the
digestion of the above-named provisions, which would amount to no
less than 11,673¾ gallons, which may be taken as below:--49
hogsheads of wine, 1368¾ gallons of beer, 584 gallons of
spirits, 342 liqueur, 2394¾ gallons of coffee, cocoa, tea, &c.,
and 304 gallons of milk, 2736 gallons of water, all of which would
actually protect him and his anticipated property from any young
thief or fellow schoolboy, like Alexandre Dumas had protected Dante
and his immense treasure from the pirates in his island of Monte
Christo. You now, dearest, fancy that I am exaggerating in every
way; but to convince you, and to prevent your puzzling your brain
to no purpose, I also enclose you a medium scale of the regular
meals of the day, from which I have taken my basis, and in sixty
years it amounts to no less than 33¾ tons weight of meat,
farinaceous food and vegetables, &c.; out of which I have named in
detail the probable delicacies that would be selected by an epicure
through life. But observe that I did not count the first ten years
of his life, at the beginning of which he lived upon pap, bread and
milk, &c., also a little meat, the expense of which I add to the
age from then to twenty, as no one can really be called an epicure
before that age; it will thus make the expenses more equal as
regards the calculation. The following is the list of what I
consider his daily meals:--

_Breakfast._--Three quarters of a pint of coffee, four ounces of
bread, one ounce of butter, two eggs, or four ounces of meat, or
four ounces of fish.

_Lunch._--Two ounces of bread, two ounces of meat, or poultry, or
game, two ounces of vegetables, and half a pint of beer or a glass
of wine.

_Dinner._--Half a pint of soup, a quarter of a pound of fish, half
a pound of meat, a quarter of a pound of poultry, a quarter of a
pound of savory dishes or game, two ounces of vegetables, two
ounces of bread, two ounces of pastry or roasts, half an ounce of
cheese, a quarter of a pound of fruit, one pint of wine, one glass
of liqueur, one cup of coffee or tea; at night one glass of spirits
and water.

Now that I have given you these important details, perhaps you will
give me some little credit for my exaction and severity respecting
the attention which ought to be daily paid to the indispensable and
useful art of cookery by our middle classes. I shall also observe
to you, that those masses of provisions above described in the
exposé of sixty years, have been selected, dressed, and served, by
scientific hands, every real epicure choosing through life the best
cook, and consequently the best of provisions, which, had they have
fallen into the hands of inexperienced persons, would very likely
have wasted one third, thereby increasing the expenses, and never
giving any real satisfaction to the consumer; therefore let us act
in a small way as becomes us, as it is for the wealthy according to
their incomes; let every housekeeper devote more time to the study
of domestic and practical economy; in many instances it will
increase their incomes as well as their daily comforts, as I
remarked to you that the pleasures of the table being not only the
most expensive part of human luxury, but also the soul of
sociability, require more attention bestowed upon it than is done
at the present day.

Fare you well,

HORTENSE.

INDEX.

Acid, 57

A-la-mode Beef, 164, 165

Albumen, 158

Almond Water, 42

Almond Cake, Iced, 304
Ice, White, 297

Aitch-Bone of Beef, 122

Aliment, a New, 345

Apple Bread, 284
Charlotte, 282
Compote, 307, 308
Dumplings, 294
Flanc, 275
Fritters, 281
Jelly, 320
sauté in Butter, 285
Pie, 296
Pudding, 294
Vol-au-Vent, 273

Apples, Baked, 45
and Fig Beverage, 45
and Rice Pudding, 47
with Rice, 283
with Butter, 284

Apricot Compote, 308, 309, 310
Fritters, 282
Ice Cream, 317
Marmalade, 318
Nougat, 278
Pudding, 294

Arrow-root, 39
Jelly, 40
Water, 44
Broth, 34

Artichokes, 259
Jerusalem, 81, 259

Asparagus, 253
with Eggs, 217

Aspic of Meat, 240

Bacon, to choose, 18, 140
to boil, 141
to broil, 19

Baking, on, 60

Barley Lemonade, 42

Barley Orangeade, 43

Barley Water, 41

Batter for Fritters, 305

Beans, Broad, 259
French, 259
à la Maître d'Hôtel, 259
Haricot, 260
Young, 260
à la Bretonne, 261

Beef, on, 118
A-la-mode, 164, 165
Aitch-Bone of, 122
Brisket of, 122
Croquettes of, 167
Choice of, 118
Essence of, 36
Family Salad of, 167
Fillets of, Broiled, 165
Sauté, 166
to hang, 118
Hashed, 158
Minced, 166
Miroton, 159, 160
Palates, 160
à la Bretonne, 161
à la Poulette, 161
à la Maître d'Hôtel, 161
Pickle for, à la Garrick, 242
Pressed, 242
remains of, 158
Ribs of, Braised, 119
Larded, 241
Roasted, 119
Round of, Salted, 121
cold, 121
Rump Steak, Stewed, 164
Half-round of, silver side, 121
Salt, remains of, 169
Salt, Bubble and Squeak, 163
Sirloin of, 119
Stewed Rump of, 120
Spiced, 242
Tea, 36

Beignet Soufflé, 281

Beet-root, 258

Beurre Noir, or Black Butter, 98

Beverage, Refreshing, 43, 44

Bills of Fare, 339

Biscuit Soufflé, 301
Cocoa-Nut, 325
Cream, 326
Moss, 325
Rout, 325

Blackberry Pudding, 294

Black-Pudding, broiled, 20

Blancmange, 290

Bloaters, 15

Boiling, on, 60

Boudins of Fowl, 197
Turkey, 197

Bottoms and Tops, to make, 11

Braising, on, 60

Braise-Roast, 147

Boil, 148

Bread, to make, 10
and Milk, 30
and Apple, 284

Breakfast Table, 7, 26

Brocoli, 257

Broiling, 63

Broth, Arrow-root, 34
Chicken, 37, 53
Eel, 38
Mutton, 33
Rice, 34
French Herb, 44
Seasoned, 33
Semoulina, 34
Turkey, 147
Various, 34
Vermicelli, 34
Veal, 35

Brown Stock, 77

Browning, 78

Brioche Rolls, to make, 12

Brussels Sprouts, 259

Bubble and Squeak, 163

Buns, to make, 12
Butter, 334
Anchovy, 117
Burnt, 217
Lobster, 117
Melted, 112
Maître d'Hôtel, 117
Ravigote, 117

Cacao, 25

Cake, Almond, 325
Cinnamon, 326
Ginger, 326
Pound, 324
Queen's, 324
Rout, 325
Savoy, in Moulds, 322

Cake, Savoy, or Ladies' Fingers, 323
Shrewsbury, 326
Sponge, 323
small, 324
St. James's, 327
Royal Iceing for, 312

Calf's Brains, à la Maître d'Hôtel, 175
fried, 175
to prepare, 128
Ears, stewed, 174
Feet, 53, 214, 240
Feet Jelly, 286
Head, 128, 130
Curry, 213
Hollandaise, 130
with Mushrooms, 130
with Tomatos, 130
Heart, roasted, 172
Liver, English fashion, 172
fried, 175
sautéd, 172
stewed, 175
Sweetbreads, 173
au Gratin, 174
another way, 173

Caper Sauce, 113

Capillaire, 330

Capon, boiled, 151
and Cresses, 227
à l'Estragon, 157
Pie, 236
Roast, 150
Roast braised, 147
Stewed, 151

Capilotade of Poultry, 193

Carp, baked, 106
Sauce Matelote, 106

Carrot Pudding, 292
with Poulards, 152
Soup, 89
White, 89
Sauce, 73

Carving, 346

Cauliflower, 257
Gratin, with Cheese, 257
Purée, Soup, 71, 89

Celery, 256

Cheesecakes, 229
Lemon, 280
Maids of Honor, 280
Puff, 303

Cheese Soufflé, 304
Raminole, 303

Charlotte, Apple, 282
Russe, 289

Cheese, to make, 304

Charlotte, Strawberry, 289

Chartreuse of Fruit, 290

Cherry Draught, 44
Compote, 309, 311

Cherry Marmalade, 319
Omelette, 281
Vol-au-Vent, 271
Pudding, 295

Chestnut Pudding, 296

Chicken, Boiled, 53, 193
Braised, 192
Broth, 37, 53
Curry, 210
Italian way, 153
Pie, 203
Roast Braised, 192
Roast, for Invalids, 53
Spring, 228
Stewed, 150

Chicorée Sauce, 72

Choice of Pork, 139

Choca, 345, 346

Chocolate, 25
Italian, 25
Iceing for Cakes, 312
Ice Cream, 316

Choice of Meat, 118

Chopping of Herbs, 267

Chump of Veal, 125, 127

Clear Soup, 79

Clarify Stock, to, 79

Cock-a-leekie Soup, 83

Cocoa, 25, 26
Nut Biscuits, 325

Cod, Boiled, 95
with Oysters, 95

Coffee, on, 20
to choose, 22
where first used in London, 21
to make, 22
French, 23
White, 23
made with a filter, 24
another way, 24

Cold Ham, 141, 240

Conger Eel, Stewed, 110

Confectioner's Paste, 270

Conversation on Household Affairs, 336

Compote of Pigeons, 200
of Fruits, 310

Cooling Drink, 42
Lemonade, 45

Cow Heels, 169

Crab Curry, 215

Cranberry Pie, 296

Cresses with Pullet, 227

Cream, Bohemian Jelly, 288
Clouted, 335
Coffee Soufflé, 302
Coffee Ice, 316
Pastry Sauté, 286
Omelette Soufflé, 301
Rice, 299
Sauce, 116
with Spinach, 260

Crécy Soup, 89

Croquettes of Fowl, 195
Macaroni, 285
Rice, 285

Crumpets, to make, 11
to toast, 9
to serve, 10

Crusts of Fruit, 278
Madeira, 279

Cucumbers, 258
Brown Sauce, 67
White Sauce, 71, 73
with Poulards, 152

Curaçao Jelly, 287

Currant Jelly, 320
with Omelette, 281
Red, White & Black for Puddings, 294
and Raspberry Pie, 295
Compote, 311
Salad, 322
Sweetmeat of, 320

Curry, Beef, 212
Calf's Head, Feet, and Tail, 213, 214
Chicken, 210
with Paste, 210
Crab, 215
Fillets of Haddock, 216
Sole, 216
Whiting, 216
Game, 221
Lamb, 212, 213
Lamb's Head, 214
Lobster, 214
Mutton, 212
Ox Tail, 214
Oyster, 215
Pork, 212
Prawn, 215
Rabbit, 211
Salmon, 215
Skate, 216
Sauce, 69
Tripe, 214
Turbot, 216
Veal, 211
Breast of, 212

Custard Pudding, 47, 364

Damson Pie, 295
Pudding, 294

Dartoise Fourrée, 278

Demi-Plum Pudding, 292

Dessert, 305

Dewberry and Raspberry Pie, 295

Diablotins, 304

Dinner, Nursery, 28
Table, 327

D'Office, Paste, 270

Dried Haddock, 16
Mackerel, 97
Sprats, 17

Draught, Cherry, 44

Drink, Cooling, 42
New, 41
Strengthening, 43

Dry Toast, 9

Ducks, on, 156
à l'Aubergiste, 157
to choose, 156
Roasted, 156
Stewed with Peas, 156, 198
Turnips, 157, 199
Varieties of, 156

Ducklings, 228
Pie, 236
Stewed with Peas, 156
Turnips, 157
Remains of, 157

Duck, Wild, 230
Hashed, 225
with Orange Sauce, 225

Ears, Calf's, Stewed, 174

Ecarlate of Fowl, 153

Eels, on, 109
to kill, 109
Broth, 38
Fried, 109
Pie, 205
Spitchcocked, 110
Skinned, 109
Stewed, 109
à la Tartare, 110

Effects of Fish, 93

Eggs au Beurre, 13
Baked, 216
with Asparagus, 217
with burnt Butter, 217
Hard, 14
in Cases, 218
with Cheese, 218
to choose, 12
with Green Peas, 217
with Ham, 19
plain Boiled, 13
Poached, 14
Mashed, 217
Meagre, 217
with Mushrooms, 217
Sauce, 112
Snow, 217
with Sprue Grass, 217
sur le plat, 14
and Toast, 14
à la Tripe, 217

Endive Sauce or Purée, 72

Entrées, or Made Dishes, 158
of Game, 220

Epicure, the Septuagenarian, 348

Escalops, 250

Escaloped Oysters, 250

Eschalot Sauce, 66

Essence of Beef, 36

Fennel Sauce, 112

Feet, Lamb's, 52, 185
Ox, 169
Calf's, 53

Fish, on, 93
French-Anglais way of stewing 110
for Breakfast, 15
Carp, 106
Cod, 95
Conger Eel, 110
Eels, 109
Effects of, 93
Forcemeat of, 252
Flounders, 104
Haddock, 96
Herrings, 100
Mackerel, 97
Maids, 104
Perch, 108
Pike, 105
Red Mullet, or Sur Mullet, 99
Salmon, 94
Sauces, 111
Salad, 247
Salt, 95
Skate, 104
Smelts, 101
Soles, 103
Sturgeon, 96, 97
Tench, 108
Trout, 107
Turbot, 102
White Bait, 101
Whiting, 99

Fish, Shell--
Escalops, 250
Oysters, 250
Razor or Solen, 250
Prawns, 250
Shrimps, 251

Fisherman's Soup, 86

Fillet of Beef, broiled, 165
Veal, cold, 241
roast, 125

Flancs, 274

Flanc of Apple, 275
Fruit, 274
Meringue, 274
what they are, 158

Flounders, on, 104
Water Souchet, 104
Fried, 101

Food, light, for invalids, 33

Forcemeat, on, 251
to make, 251
of Fish, 252
Panada for, 252
of Veal, 253
of Whitings, 252

Fondu, Parmesan, 302
Neapolitan, 302
simple, 302
Stilton Cheese, 303

Fourrée, Dartoise, 278
Gâteau, 277
Rissole, 276

Fowls, on, 149
Blanquettes of, 194
Boiled, 194
Braised, 194
Broiled, 194, 195
Boudins of, 197
Croquettes of, 195
Fricassée of, 195
Fried, 193
Hashed, Indian, 193
Italian way, 153
à l'Ecarlate, 153
à la Marengo, 196
Minced, 194
Pie, 235
Pillau, 209
Pulled, for invalids, 54
Roast braised, 148
Sauté, 194, 196, 197, 199
Salad, 249
to truss, 150

Fowl, Guinea, 229
Pea, 229

French Beans, 259
Coffee, 23
Herb Broth, 44
Panada, 41, 252
Remedy for Colds, 38
Plums Compote, 309
Fritadella, 190
Fritters, Apple, 282
Apricot, 282
Orange, 282
Peach, 282
Soufflé, 282

Fruit, Chartreuse of, 298
Crusts, 278
Flanc of, 274
Rissolettes, 273
Puddings, 294
Pies, 296
Salads of, 321, 322
Vol-au-Vent, 271
Wall, 295

Fricandeau of Veal, 170
to carve, 171
to dress, 171
Various ways, 171

Fritadella, 190

Frying, on, 61

Fry, Lamb's, 138

Fumet de Gibier Sauce, 233

Game, choice of, 229
to keep, 229
Made-dishes of, 220
Salad of, 248
Soup, 92
Tureen of, 237
Entrées of, 220
Dunbird, 231
Garganey, 231
Gorcock, 230
Grouse, 230
Red, 230
White, 230
Half Birds, 231
Lark, 232
Moorcock, or Gorcock, 230
Moor-game, 230
Partridge, 230
Red-legged, 230
Pea Fowl, 229
Pheasant, 229
Hybrid, 229
Plovers, 231
Pochard, 231
Ptarmigan, 230
Quails, 232
Red Heads, 231
Snipes, 232
Teal, 231
Whim, 231
Whewer, 231
Widgeons, 231
Great Headed, 231
Woodcock, 231

Garlic Sauce, 68

Garniture for Omelettes, 219

Garum Sauce, 111
Sociorum, 111

Gâteau Fourré, 277

Galantine, to cook, 238
Jelly, 287
Turkey, 238
Veal, 241
how got, 117

Gibelote of Rabbit, 200

Giblets, 85, 155

Glaze, 78

Gold Jelly, 287

Goose, 153
to choose, 153
Giblets, 155
Hashed, 199
Pie, 236
Preserved, 155
Stewed, 155
Stuffing, 154
Roasted, 154, 155
Trussed, 154

Gooseberry, Green, Compote, 311
Pie, 295
Pudding, 294
Vol-au-Vent, 272
with Rhubarb, 297

Gosling, Roast, 228

Grass, Sprue, 255

Gratin of Lobster, 245

Gravy, Brown, 77
Spinach and, 260
Turkey, 145

Greengage Compote, 308, 311

Greengage Pudding, 294

Groats, Scotch, Gruel, 40

Grouse Pie, 204, 236
Scotch Plan of Cooking, 222

Gruel, 40
Sago, 40

Guinea Fowls, Roasted, 229

Haddocks, Baked, 96
Dried, 16
Fillets of, 216

Ham, Cold, 141, 240
and Eggs, 19
Hot, 141

Hamburgh Beef, 122

Hard Eggs, 14

Hare, Jugged, 226, 227
Roasted, 233

Haricot Beans, 260

Hartshorn Jelly, 287

Haunch of Mutton, 130
Venison, 142

Head, Calf's, 128, 130
Hollandaise, 130
with Mushrooms, 130
Tomatos, 130
Curry, 213
Lamb's, 138
Pig's, 243
Pig's, Sauce for, 243
Pig's, to braise, 243

Heart, Calf's, Roasted, 172
Lamb's, 185
Sheep's, 184

Herbs with Omelette, 219
Minced, Sauce, 67
Italian Sauce, 67
Chopping, 267

Herrings, Boiled, 100
Broiled, 100
Toast, 15

Hotch Potch, 87

Ice, Almond, White, 297
Apricot, 317
Chocolate, 316
Coffee, 316
Lemon, 316
Orange, 317
Pine Apple, 316
Strawberry, 317
Vanilla, 315

Iced Almond Cake, 304

Imperial, 46

Indian Hash, 193

Invalids, Comforts for, 33
Fish for, 49
Food, 33
Meat, 33, 51
Partridges, 54
Pigeons, 54
Poultry, 53
Puddings, 47

Irish Stew, 178
Soup, 82

Isinglass Jelly, 287

Italian Drops, 327

Jam, Apricot, 318
Quince, 318
Raspberry, 319
Strawberry, 319

Jardinière, Neck of Lamb, 136
Sauce, 137

Jelly, Apple, 320
Arrow-root, 40
Bohemian Cream, 288
Calf's Foot, 286
Curaçao, 287
Currant, 320
Gelatine, 287
Gold, 287
Hartshorn, 287
Isinglass, 287
Marasquino, 287
Lemon, 288
Orange, 288
Punch, 287
Quince, 287, 320
Rum, 287
Silver, 287
Whipped, 288
of Meat, to clarify, 239

Jesuits, Turkeys, so called, 144

Julienne Soup, 81

Kidneys, Bread-crumbed, 18
Maître d'Hôtel, 18
on Toast, 17
Ox, 168
Omelette of, 220
Pudding, 168, 207
Sautéd, 18
Sheep's, 17, 176

Kidney Beans, 259

Knuckle of Veal, 127, 240

Lait de Poule, 38
Sweet, 38

Lamb, 136
Breast of, Broiled, 138
Curried, 212
Chop, 52, 166, 186
Curry, 212
Cutlets, 185
to cut up, 136
Feet, 52, 185
Fry, 138
Head, 138, 139, 213
Heart, 185
Leg of, 137
Loin of, 136
Neck of, 136
Pie, 201, 203
Papillote, 186
Pudding, 206
Quarter of, 136
Quality of, 136
Remains of, 184
Ribs of, 136
Saddle of, Russian fashion, 137
Sautéd, 186
Shoulder of, 137

Larks à la Minute, 226
Pie, 226

Laver, 263

Lentils, 262
Soup, 90

Letters--
I, 5;
II, 6;
III, 26;
IV, 27;
V, 28;
VI, 55;
VII, 56;
VIII, 57;
IX, 58;
X, 58;
XI, 58;
XII, 120;
XIII, 178;
XIV, 181;
XV, 244;
XVI, 305;
XVII, 327;
XVIII, 332;
XIX, 334;
XX, 345;
XXI, 348.

Leveret, 233

Lemonade, Barley, 42
Cooling, 45, 332

Lemon Cheesecakes, 280
Jelly, 288
Soufflé, 299, 300

Leg of Pork, 139, 142
Lamb, 137

Liaison of Eggs, 68

Liver, Calf's, 172, 175

Lobster Butter, 116
Curry, 214
à la Crême, 114
Gratin of, 245
Miroton of, 245
Omelette, 220
Plain, 246
Salad, 246
Sauce, 113, 114

Loin of Mutton, 134
Pork, 140
Veal, 125
Braised, 127

Luncheon, 27

Mackerel à la Maître d'Hôtel, 98
au Beurre Noir, 98
Boiled, 97
Dried, 97
Pickled, 107
Stewed, 98
Soft Roe Sauce, 111

Macaroons, 326

Macaroni, 265
Croquettes, 285
à l'Estoufade, 266
au Gratin, 266
à l'Italienne, 266
à la Napolitaine, 266
Pudding, 47
Soup, 82
to blanch, 265

Macedoine Omelette, 281

Madeira Crusts, 279

Made Dishes of Beef, 158
Game, 220
Remains of Veal, 175

Maître d'Hôtel Sauce, 73

Maids of Honor, 280

Marasquino Jelly, 287

Marinade of Salmon, 248

Marrow, Vegetable, 257
Pudding, 294

Matelote, 116

Marmalade with Pancake, 282
of Apple, 318
of Apricot, 318
of Cherries, 319
of Pine Apple, 322

Mashed Eggs, 217

Meagre Eggs, 217
Soup, 88, 91
Purée, 91

Meat, Aspic of, 240
for Breakfast, 17
for Invalids, 33
Remains of, 175

Melted Butter, 112

Mephistopheleian Sauce, 75

Meringues à la Cuillerée, 277
Flanc, 276

Milk and Bread, 30
Rice, 38, 39
Semoulina, 39
Tapioca, 39
Vermicelli, 39

Minced Beef, 166
Fowl, 194
Meat, 295
Pie, 295
Pudding, 292
Pheasant, 222

Mint Sauce, 68

Minute, Snipes à la, 224

Miroton of Beef, 159, 160
Lobster, 245
Lobster Salad, 246

Moorgame Pie, 236

Mould Pudding, 291

Mock Turtle, Brown, 85
White, 84

Muffins, to make, 10
toast, 9

Mulberry Pie, 295

Mulligatawny Soup, 85

Muria Sauce, 111

Mullet, or Sur Mullet, to cook, 99
Papillote, 99
Sauté, 100

Mussel Sauce, 115

Mushrooms, Blanched, 74
with Eggs, 220
Omelette of, 220
Sauce, 66, 68, 73, 261

Mutton, on, 130
Boiled, 132
Broth, 33, 34, 82
Chop, 51, 178
Soyer's, 180, 182
Sauté, 180
Breast of, Curry, 212
Curry, 212
Cutlet, various ways, 182, 183, 184
Plain, 51
French Ragout of, 177
Haunch of, 130
Leg of, Roasted, 132
Boiled, 132
à la Bretonne, 133
Braised, 134
Stewed, 134
Loin of, Roasted, 134
Loin of, à la Bretonne, 133
Neck of, Roasted, 134
Boiled, 135
Pie, 202
Pillau, 210
Pudding, 206
Saddle of, 131
à la Polonaise, 131
Shoulder of, Roasted, 133
Boiled, 133
Baked, with Apples 133
Provincial, 134
Stuffed and Baked, 133

Neapolitan Fondue, 302

Neck of Lamb, 136
Pork, 140
Veal, 126
Venison, 143

Nectarine Pudding, 297

New Drink, 41

Nursery Dinner, 28

Omelettes, 15, 219
Asparagus, 219
Bacon, 220
Cherry, 281
Currant Jelly, 281
Garniture for, 219
Ham, 219
Herb, 219
Kidney, 220
Lobster, 220
Mushroom, 220
Macedoine of, 281
Oyster, 219
Parmesan, 219
Peach, 281
Peas, 219
Preserved Apricot, 281
Raspberry Jam, 281
Rum, 281
Sauté Soufflé, 301
Sautéd in Cream, 301
Strawberry, 281
Sweet, 281

Onion, Button, Sauce, 72
Purée, 71
Soup, 91
Stuffed, 74

Orangeade, 46

Orange Compote, 309, 310
Fritters, 282
Salad, 321
Vol-au-Vent, 272
Jelly, 288
Ice, Soufflé, 298
Sauce, 68

Osmazome, 37, 118

Oxen, to judge, 118
how cut, 118

Ox-beef, to hang, 118
Brains, 164
Cheek, 84
Feet, 169
Heart, 162
Kidneys, 168
Remains, 169
Tail Curry, 214
au Gratin, 162
à la Jardinière, 161
Sauce piquante, 162
Soup, 82
Tongue, cold, 240
hot, 240
fresh, 123
pickled, 123
Remains of, 123, 169

Oysters, 250
Escaloped, 250
Curry, 215
Omelette, 219
Soup, 86
Sauce, 115
Stewed, 251

Panada, French, 41, 252

Pancake, with Marmalade, 282

Pap, 29

Parmesan Fondue, 302

Parsnips, with Salt Fish, 95

Partridge, Roasted, 230
Hashed, 223
for Invalids, 54
Pie, 204, 236
Salmi, 223
Sautéd with Mushrooms, 223
Stewed with Cabbage, 222

Palates of Beef, 160
à la Bretonne, 161
à la Maître d'Hôtel, 161
à la Poulette, 161

Papillote Lamb Chops, 186
Sauce, 69

Paste, Beef Suet, 269
different sorts of, 268
D'Office, or Confectioners', 270
Puff, 268
Half, 269
Short, or Pâte à foncer, 269
for Fruit Tarts, 269

Pastry Cream Sauté, 286
Turban of, 304

Peach Compote, 307
Fritters, 282
Omelette, 281
Salad, 321
Vol-au-Vent, 271

Pea-Fowl, 229

Pear Compote, 307
with Rice, 284
Pie, 296

Peas and Sprue-grass Sauce, 72
and Bacon, 74
French way, 254
Green, 254
with Eggs, 217
Soup, 89, 90
Stewed, 73
Winter, 90

Pease Pudding, 209

Perch, Sautéd in Butter, 108
Hampton Court fashion, 108

Pheasant, Broiled, 220
Hashed, 221
Joe Miller's, 221
Minced, 222
Pie, raised, 236
Roasted, 229
Salmi, 222
Stewed with Cabbage, 221

Pickle à la Garrick, 242

Pickled Fish, 248
Mackerel, 107
Pork, 142
Salmon, 107
Trout, 107

Pie, Capon, 236
Chicken, 203
Duckling, 236
Eel, 205
Fowl, 236
Goose, 236
Grouse, 204, 236
Hare, 236
Lamb, 201, 203
Lark, 226
in Mould, 234
Mutton, 202
Moorfowl, 236
Partridge, 204, 236
Pigeon, 204, 236
Pheasant, 236
Poulard, 236
Rabbit, 203
Rump-steak, 202
Sea, 205
Veal and Ham, 202, 234
Fruit, 296
Apple, 296
Cherry, 295
Cranberry, 295
Currant, 295
Damson, 295
Dewberry and Raspberry, 295
Gooseberry, 295
Minced Meat, 295
Mulberry, 295
Pear, 296
Plum, 296
Quince, 296
Raspberry, 296
Rhubarb, 296
Whortleberry, 296

Pies, simple plan of making, 236
Various, 201

Pigeons en Compote, 200
for Invalids, 54
Pie, 204, 236
Stewed with Peas, 201

Pig, Sucking, 141
Hind-quarter of, 141

Pig's Cheek, 142
Feet à la Ste. Menéhould, 189
Stuffed, 188
Kidneys, 189
Head, like Wild Boar's, 243
to braise, 243

Pike, to cook, 105
Sauce Matelote, 106

Pillau, Fowl, 209
Mutton, 210

Pine Apple, 322

Piquante Sauce, 66, 186

Plovers Sautéd with Truffles, 224
Pie, 236

Plum Beverage, 45
Compote, 309
Stewed, 45
Vol-au-Vent, 273

Poached Eggs, 14

Pork, to cut up, 139
Best, 139
to choose, 139
Neck of, 140
Salted, 142
Pickled, 142
Chine of, 140
Cutlets, 187, 188
Hashed, 189
Hand of, 142
Leg of, Roasted, 139
Boiled, 142
Loin of, à la Piémontaise, 140
Normandy fashion, 140
Pudding, 207
Sparerib of, 140

Porridge, 30

Potatoes, 263
Varieties of, 263
Baked, 264
Boiled, 263
Fried, 264
Mashed, 267
Irish way of Boiling, 265
à la Lyonnaise, 265
à la Maître d'Hôtel, 264
Mashed, 265
Sandwiches, 163

Poultry, on, 143
described, 143
for Invalids, 53
to draw, 144
to kill, 143
to pluck, 144
en Capillotade, 193

Poulards, Braised, 150
Boiled, 151
with Carrots, 152
with Cucumbers, 152

Poulard Pie, 236
with Quenelles, 151
with Rice, 151
Roasted, 150
Stewed, 151

Poults, Turkey, 227

Prawn Curry, 215

Preserved Goose, 155

Prussian Cutlets, 191

Pudding, Meat, 205
Black, 20
Beefsteak, 205
Kidney, 207
Ox-Kidney, 207
Lamb, 206
Mutton, 206
Pease, 209
Pork, 207
Rabbit, 208
Suet, 208
Toad-in-Hole, 208
Veal, 207
Yorkshire, 208
for Invalids and Children, 47
Apple and Rice, 47
Bread, 48
Bread and Butter, 48
Small, 48
Cabinet, 47
Custard, 47
Macaroni, 47
Rice, 47
Tapioca, 47
Vermicelli, 47
in Moulds, 291
à l'Eloise, 291
à la Reine, 292
Carrot, 292
Chestnut, 296
Demi-Plum, 292
Iced Cabinet, 287
Minced Meat, 292
Nesselrode, 296
Trifle, 292
in Cloths, 293
Apple, 294
Apricot, 294
Blackberry, 294
Currant, Red and White, 294
Custard, 294
Damson, 294
Fruit, 294
Gooseberry, 294
Greengage, 294
Nectarine, 294
Marrow, 294
Peach, 294
Plum, 293
Plain Baked, 293
Plain Bolster, 294
Plum Bolster, 293
Raspberry and Cherry, 295
Rowley Powley, 293
Rhubarb, 295
Whorts, 295

Puff Cheesecakes, 303
Paste, 268

Pulled Fowl for Invalids, 54

Pullets, on, 228
Roasting, 228
Roasted, with Cresses, 227

Punch Jelly, 287
Cold, 333

Quails, 232

Quenelles. Ragout Sauce, 73
with Tongue, 151

Quince Pie, 296

Rabbit, on, 232
Roasted, 232
Curry, 211
Fricassée of, 199
Gibelotte of, 200
Pie, 203
Pudding, 208

Raised Pies, 235, 236

Ramifolle, 190

Raminole, Cheese, 303

Raspberry Jam, 319
Omelette, 281
Pie, 296
Pudding, 295
Vinegar, 43

Ratafias, 327

Ravigote Sauce, 67, 117

Refreshing Beverage, 43

Removes, 117, 296

Remains of Meat, 175
Lamb, 184
Duck, 157

Rhubarb Compote, 311
Pie, 296
Pudding, 295
Vol-au-Vent, 273

Rice with Apples, 283
to boil, 267
Broth, 34
Croquettes, 285
Milk, 38, 39
with Pears, 284
Pudding, 47
with Apple, 47
Poulard with, 151
Soup, 82
Water, 41

Rissole Fourrée, 276

Rissolettes, little Fruit, 273

Ribs of Beef, Roasted, 119
Braised, 119

Roasting, on, 59

Roasts, Second Course, 227

Robert Sauce, 67

Root, Beet, 258

Rolls, to make, 10
Brioche, 12

Roux, 65

Rump Steak, 52, 124

Rum, Omelette with, 281
Jelly, 287

Russe, Charlotte, 289

Rusks, to make, 11

Saddle of Lamb, 137

Sago Gruel, 40

Salad, Beef, 167
and Potatoes, 167
Fish, 247
Fowl, 249
Game, 248
Lobster, 246
Miroton, 245
Plain, 246
Tartar, 246

Salads of Fruit, 321, 322

Salmon, Boiled, 94
Broiled, 95
Curry, 215
Marinade, 248
Matelote, 94
Pickled, 107

Salmi of Partridge, 223
Pheasant, 222

Salsify, 256

Sandwiches, 333

Sauces, on, 64

Sauce, Anchovy, 112
Anchovy Butter, 69, 117
Beans, French, 72
Beyrout, 114
for Meat, 115
Brown, 65, 66
Cucumber, 67
Mushroom, 66, 68
Beurre Noir, 98
Button Onion, 72
Caper, 113
Carrot, 73
Cream, 116
Chicorée, 72
Cauliflower, 71
Cucumber, 67, 71, 73
Curry, 69
Demi-glaze, 65
Egg, 112
Endive, 72
Eschalot, 66
Fumet de Gibier, 233
Fennel, 112
Fish, 111
Garum, 111
Garum Sociorum, 111
Garlic, 68
Italian Herb, 67
Jardinière, 136
Jerusalem Artichoke, 71, 72
Liaison of Eggs, 68
Lobster, 113
New, 113
à la Crême, 114
simplified, 114
Maître d'Hôtel, 73, 117, 186
Matelote, 116
Simple, 116
Mayonnaise, 247
Melted Butter, 112
Mephistopheleian, 75
Minced Herb, 67
Mint, 68
Muria, 111
Mushroom, 66, 68, 73, 74
Mussel, 115
Onion, 71, 74
Orange, 68
Oyster, 74, 115
Papillote, 69
Peas, 72, 73, 74
Piquante, 66, 186
Quenelles,73
Ravigote, 67, 117
Robert, 67
Shrimp, 112
Soft Roe, 111
Sorrel, 71
Soyer's, 69
Spinach, 72, 260
Tomato, 69, 75
Tartar, 75, 248
Turnip, 71, 72
Tarragon, 67
White, 64, 71
Wild Boar's Head, 244
Wild Fowl, 233

Sardines and Toast, 15

Salt Pork, 142

Sorrel Sauce, 71

Sautéing, on, 62

Sausage Cake, 146, 188

Sausages, to cook, 20
to choose, 19
Cambridge, 20
to sauté, 20, 146
Atherstone, 20
with Turkey, 146

Savory Dishes, 234

Seakale, 255

Semoulina Broth, 34
Milk, 39
Soup, 82

Shrimp Sauce, 112, 113

Sheep's Brains, 135, 176
Feet, or Trotters, 176
Stock from, 177
Head, 135
Heart, 184
Kidneys, 17, 176
Tongue, 184

Sheep, how to cut up, 130
which are best, 130

Shell Fish, 250

Silver Jelly, 287

Skate, to cook, 104
au Beurre Noir, 105
Curry, 216

Soup, on, 75
Autumn, 87
Artichoke, 81, 88
Cabbage, 87
Clear, 79
Carrot, White, 89
Cauliflower, 89
Crab, 92
Crécy, 89
Fisherman's, 86
Game, 92
Giblet, 85
Hare, 91
Hotch Potch, 87
Italian Paste, 81
Irish, 82
Julienne, 81
Lamb's Head, 84
Lentil, 90
Macaroni, 82
Mock Turtle, Brown, 85
White, 84
Maigre, 88, 91
Mulligatawny, 85
Mutton Broth, 82
Onion, 91
Ox Cheek, 84
Ox Tail, 83
Oyster, 86
Palestine, 88
Pea, 80, 90
Pot-au-Feu, 92
Printanière, 80
Purée of Vegetable, 88
Rice, 82
Scotch Cock-a-leekie, 83
Semoulina, 82
Spring, 81
Sole, 86
Sheep's Head, 84
Turnip, 81, 89
Vermicelli, 81
Wild Fowl, 92

Soufflé, 299
Beignet, 281
Biscuit, 301
Coffee, 302
Cream, Whipped, 301
Cheese, 304
Fritters, 282
Lemon, 299, 300
Omelette, 300
Sauté, 301
Cream, 301
Orange Flower, 299
Orange Iced, 298
Punch Cake, 298
Rice Cream, 300
Vanilla, 302

Smelts, Broiled, 50
Fried, 101
for Invalids, 50
Water Souchet, 51

Soles, small, or Slips, 17
Boiled, 104
Fried, 103
Fillets of Curried, 216
aux Fines Herbes, 104
à la Mennière, 103
Sauté in Oil, 103

Snow Eggs, 217

Snipes à la Minute, 224

Soyer's Chop, 180
Sauce, 69

Sourcrout, to cook, 262
Bavarian way, 263

Sparerib of Pork, 140

Spinach, 260
with Gravy, 260
with Cream, 260

Sprouts, Brussels, 259

Spring Chickens, 228

Sprats, to cook, 17
Dried, 17

Sprue-grass, 255
with Eggs, 217

Steak, Rump, 54, 164

Stewing, on, 60

Stock, on, 76
for all kinds of Soup, 76
Brown, 77
to Clarify, 79
Economical, 76
Sheep's Feet, 177

Strawberry Jam, 319
Omelette, 281
Salad, 321
Charlotte, 289
Vol-au-Vent, 273

Strengthening Drink, 43

Stuffing, Turkey, 148
Veal, 253

Sturgeon, 96, 97

Sucking Pig, 141
Hind-quarter of, 141

Sugar, to boil, 313
color, 312
clear, 313
in Grains, 312
of Lemon, 313
Spring, 313
Silk Thread, 315
Vanilla, 313

Sweetbreads, 173
Sauté, 173
au Gratin, 173

Sweet Lait de Poule, 38

Sweetmeat of Currant Jelly, 320

Table, Breakfast, 7

Tapioca Milk, 39
Pudding, 48

Tarragon Sauce, 67

Tartar Sauce, 75

Tarts, small Fruit, 275

Tartlets, little Fruit, 275

Tea, 24
how made in France, 21
Beef,
new way to make, 25

Teal, a new method of cooking, 225
à la sans façon, 226

Tench, Stewed, 108
with Anchovy Butter, 109

Toast, Plain, 8
Dry, 9
and Eggs, 14
Haddock, 15
Herring, 15
Kidneys, 17
Sardines, 15
Water, 46
Crumpets, to, 9
Muffins, 9
to serve, 9

Toad in a Hole, 208

Tongue, cold Ox, 240
Fresh, 123
Remains of, 124, 169
Sheep's, 184

Tomato Sauce, 69

Tops and Bottoms, 11

Trout à la Bretonne, 107
Pickled, 107
River, 107
à la Twickenham, 107

Trifles, 290

Trifle Pudding, 292

Tripe Curry, 214

Truffles, Sauté of, 262

Turbot, to cook, 102
French way, 102
à la Crême, 102

Turban of Almond Cake, 304
of Boudins of Fowl, 198
of Pastry, 304

Turkey, Boiled, 146
Braised, 147
Broth from, 147
Blanquette of, 197
Boudins of, 197
with Celery Sauce, 147
to choose, 144
where from, 144
Giblets, 155
Gravy for, 145
Jerusalem Sauce, 147
called Jesuits, 144
Galantine, 238
to dress, 238
with Oysters, 147
Parsley and Butter, 147
Sausages, 146
Sausage-cake, 146
Roasted, 144
Braised, 148
Stuffing for, 148
to truss, 145
with Tomatos, 147
Stewed, 149
Poults, 227

Tureen of Game, 237

Vanilla Cream, 315
Soufflé, 302

Veal, on, 124
Breast of, 126
Stuffed, 127
Stewed, 127
Curried, 212
Broth, 35
Strengthening, 35
French fashion, 35
Curry, 211
Cutlets, 174
aux Fines Herbes, 174
en Papillote, 174
Sauté, 166
Chump of, 125
Fricandeau of, 170
to dress, 171
to prepare, 170
to carve, 171
with all Sauces, 171
Fillet of, 241
Roasted, 125
Braised, 241
Forcemeat of, 253
Galantine of, 241
and Ham Pie, 202, 234, 236
Knuckle of, 127, 240
Loin of, 125, 127
Neck of, Braised, 126
with Peas, 126
with Haricots, 126
with new Potatoes, 126
Shoulder of, Stewed, 127
with Sauce piquante, 126
Stuffed and Braised, 126
Cold, 241
Roasted, 126
Braised, 126
Remains of, 175

Vegetables, to cook, 253
Artichokes, 259
Jerusalem, 259
Asparagus, 253
Beans, French, 259
à la Maître d'Hôtel, 259
Gabanza, 262
Haricot, White, 260
à la Bretonne, 261
Kidney, 259
Windsor, 259
Beetroot, 258
Brocoli, 257
Brussels Sprouts, 259
Cauliflower, 257
gratiné with Cheese, 257
Celery, 256
Cucumbers, 258
Laver, 263
Lentils, 261
Vegetable Marrow, 257
Mushrooms, 261
large, 261
Potatoes, their Introduction, 263
Baked, 264
Boiled, 263
Irish way, 265
Fried, 264
Fried, Mashed, 267
à la Lyonnaise, 265
à la Maître d'Hôtel, 264
Peas, Green, 254
French way, 254
Salsifis, 256
Seakale, 255
Sourcrout, 262
Bavarian, 263
Spinach, 260
with Gravy, 260
with Cream, 260
Sprue Grass, 255
Truffles, English, 262
Sauté of, 262

Venison, 142
where to keep, 142
how to choose, 142
Haunch of, 142
Neck of, 143

Vermicelli Broth, 34
Milk, 39
Pudding, 48
Soup, 81

Victimized Cutlets, 191

Vinegar, Raspberry, 43

Vol-au-Vent, 270
of Apples, 273
Cherries, 271
Fruit, 271
Gooseberries, 272
Oranges, 272
another, 272
still plainer, 272
Peaches, 271
Plums, 273
Rhubarb, 273
Strawberries, 273

Water, Barley, 41
Fresh Fruit, 43
Jelly, 44
Rice, 41
Toast and, 46
Souchet, 104
Smelts, 51
Cresses with Steak, 124

Whitings, Boiled, 49
Broiled, 16, 49
Fried, 50, 99
au Gratin, 99
Forcemeat of, 252
Sautéd, 50
Fillets of, 216

White Bait, to cook, 101
Sauce, 64, 70

Whipped Jelly, 288

Whorts Pie, 296
Pudding, 295

Woodcock, Hashed, 224
à la Lucullus, 223
Sportsman's fashion, 223

Widgeon, Hashed, 225
Roasted, 225

Wild Boar's Head, 243
Sauce, 244

Wild Duck, with Orange Sauce, 225
Hashed, 225

Wine, Port, Negus, 333
White, Fillip, 333

Yorkshire Pudding, 208

THE END.

_D. Appleton & Co.'s Publications._

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