Chapter III: Part 3

82. _Barley Water._--Put half a gallon of water into a very clean saucepan, with two ounces of clean (but unwashed) pearl barley, when boiling, carefully skim it with a tablespoon, and add half the rind of a small lemon, let it boil until the barley is quite tender; sweeten with half an ounce of white sugar, strain it through a fine hair sieve, and use when required. The juice of half a lemon in some cases may also be introduced.

83. _Rice Water._--Put a quart of water to boil in a saucepan, with a handful of clean rice (but not washed), place it upon the fire, and let boil gently until the rice is quite in a pulp, then pass it through a hair sieve into a jug, pressing as much of the rice through as possible, and when getting cold, sweeten moderately with honey, which will make it very palatable; it should be drunk lukewarm.

84. _A New Drink._--Put half a gallon of water upon the fire, and when boiling, have ready four pippin apples (quite ripe), cut each apple into eight slices, without peeling them, throw them into the water, which keep boiling until the apples are quite soft, pass the water through a sieve, pressing the apples gently against the side of the sieve, but not rubbing them through, add enough honey to make it a little sweetish, and drink lukewarm.

Two apples thrown into the rice-water and boiled the same would be a great improvement. People in good health would much enjoy such drink, during the summer especially; as also would poor people in the country, where apples are plentiful. Any kind of apples would suit, and brown sugar instead of honey, or even no sugar at all.

85. _Cooling Drink._--Bake four or six apples, without peeling them; when done and quite hot, put them into a jug, and pour over three pints of boiling water; cover the jug over with paper, and when cold it is ready for use; a spoonful of honey or brown sugar added makes it very palatable.

86. _Almond Water._--Put five ounces of sweet and two of bitter almonds into a saucepan, with a pint of hot water, set them upon the fire, and, when boiling, strain them upon a sieve, take off their skins, and set them in spring water to cool, then dry them upon a cloth, pound them in a mortar until very fine, adding a few drops of water occasionally, to prevent their becoming oily, set a pint of syrup to boil, when throw in the mashed almonds; boil together a minute, then set it at the corner to simmer for a quarter of an hour; it is then ready to pass through a fine sieve for use. When required, add any quantity of cold water you please to make it palatable, according to taste or direction.

87. _Barley Lemonade._--Put a quarter of a pound of sugar into a small stewpan, with half a pint of water, which boil about ten minutes, or until forming a thickish syrup; then add the rind of a fresh lemon and the pulp of two; let it boil two minutes longer, when add two quarts of barley-water, from which you have omitted the sugar and lemon; boil five minutes longer, pass it through a hair sieve into a jug, which cover with paper, making a hole in the centre to let the heat through; when cold, it is ready for use; if put cold into a bottle and well corked down, it would keep good several days.

_Barley Orangeade_ is made the same, substituting the rind and juice of oranges; the juice of a lemon, in addition, is an improvement, when taken as a refreshing beverage.

88. _A Refreshing Beverage._--Slice two oranges and one lemon, which put into a jug, with two ounces of sugarcandy, over which pour one quart of boiling water; stir it occasionally until cold, when drink it a little at a time, as often as ordered by the medical attendant. This drink is also very excellent for persons in health, especially in warm weather.

89. _Raspberry Vinegar Beverage._--Put two tablespoonfuls of raspberry vinegar into a cup, over which pour half a pint of boiling water; when cold, use it as you may be instructed or when necessary; any kind of fruit syrup would answer the same purpose, and be equally as good, that is, currants, cherries, strawberries, mulberries, &c.

90. _A very Strengthening Drink._--Put a teacupful of pearl-barley into a saucepan, with three pints of cold water, the rind of a lemon and a small piece of cinnamon; boil the whole very gently until the barley becomes tender, when strain it through a fine sieve, and sweeten with a spoonful of treacle: if treacle should be objectionable, honey or sugar will do.

91. _Fresh Fruit Water._--Fresh fruits, when in season, are very preferable to syrups, which are but seldom well made, except at some of the first confectioners or Italian warehouses.

Pick a bottle of fresh raspberries or strawberries, whichever you may require, rub them through a sieve into a basin, which mix well with half a pint of syrup, the juice of a lemon, and a quart of spring water; pass it through a fine hair sieve, and put it by in a jug for use; both the syrup and water may either be increased or diminished according to taste.

Red or white currant waters are made precisely the same, only omitting the lemon, the currants themselves being sufficiently sharp.

92. _Cherry Draught._--Choose a pound of good fleshy cherries, from which take the stalk and stones, have a pint of syrup boiling, into which throw them, to boil as fast as possible for ten minutes, then take them from the fire, and add a good wine-glassful of Madeira or sherry, and a quart of boiling water; put it into a jug, with a cup over; when cold, pass it through a sieve, and it is ready for use: the wine may be omitted if not required. A drink of the same description may likewise be made from mulberries, but then a little lemon-juice must be added.

93. _Arrow-root Water._--Put half a gallon of water to boil with two apples, the same as in No. 84, with the addition of a stick of cinnamon; let the whole boil half an hour, then mix two large spoonfuls of arrow-root with half a pint of cold water, very smoothly, and pour it into the boiling water: let the whole boil ten minutes, and pass it through a sieve; when cold, it will drink light and thickish.

94. _French Herb Broth._--This is a very favorite beverage in France, as well with people in a state of health as with invalids, especially in the spring, when the herbs are young and green. Put a quart of water to boil, but have previously prepared about forty leaves of sorrel, a cabbage-lettuce, and ten sprigs of chervil, the whole well washed; when the water is boiling, throw in the above, with the addition of a teaspoonful of salt and half an ounce of fresh butter; cover your saucepan close, and let them simmer a few minutes, then pass it through a sieve or colander. This is to be drunk cold, especially in the spring of the year, after the change from winter. I generally drink about a quart per day for a week, at that time; but if for sick people, it must be made less strong of herbs, and taken a little warm. To prove that it is wholesome, we have only to refer to the instinct which teaches dogs to eat grass at that season of the year. I do not pretend to say that it would suit persons in every malady, because the doctors are to decide upon the food and beverage of their patients, and study its changes as well as change their medicines.

95. _Dry Plum Beverage._--Put a quart of water in a saucepan upon the fire, and, when boiling, throw in twelve fresh dry French plums, and let them boil twenty minutes, then pour them in a basin with the liquor to cool; when cold, take out the plums, which put into a basin; add two tablespoonfuls of brown sugar and a very small quantity of port wine. They are excellent to eat, and the liquor to drink.

96. _Figs and Apple Beverage._--Have two quarts of water boiling, into which throw six fresh dry figs, previously opened, and two apples, previously cut into six or eight pieces each; let the whole boil together twenty minutes, then pour them together into a basin to cool, then pass through a sieve; drain the figs, which will be also good to eat.

97. _Stewed Plums._--Put twelve French plums in a stewpan, with a spoonful of brown sugar, a gill of water, a little cinnamon, and some thin rind of a lemon; let them stew twenty minutes, then pour them in a basin until cold, take them from their syrup and eat them dry. They are sometimes stewed in wine and water, either port, sherry, or claret.

98. _Baked Apples_ are very much used by invalids: have a common yellow dish, such as you frequently see in farmhouses, into which put about twelve apples (previously well wiped) and about a gill of water, and put them in a hot oven for half an hour, or rather more should the apples be large; when well done, take them out to get cold upon the dish, and eat them cold, either with powdered lump or moist sugar.

99. _Cooling Lemonade._--Put a quart of water in a stewpan to boil, into which put two moist dried figs, each split in two; let it boil a quarter of an hour, then have ready the peel of a lemon, taken off rather thickly, and the half of the lemon cut in thin slices; throw them into the stewpan and boil two minutes longer; then pour it into a jug, which cover closely with paper until cold, then pass it through a sieve: add a teaspoonful of honey, and it is ready for use.

100. _Imperial, a cooling Drink for the Spring._--Two ounces of cream of tartar, two lemons, juice and peel, four ounces of sugar; place in a stone jug, and pour about six quarts of boiling water; allow it to get cold, and bottle for use; or, instead of sugar, add three tablespoonfuls of raspberry vinegar, and six ounces of honey. This is excellent aerated-like soda water. Essence of ratafia, or any other, may be added, with about half a pint of pure spirit at proof, for those accustomed to spirits.

101. _Orangeade._--Proceed as for lemonade, but using the whole of the orange, a little of the peel included, sweetening with sugar candy, and adding a teaspoonful of arrow-root mixed with a little cold water, which pour into the boiling liquid at the same time you put in the orange. The arrow-root makes it very delicate.

102. _Toast and Water._--The ease and simplicity of making this popular drink is probably the cause of its not being well made one time in ten, that is, in private families; the bread is too much or too little done, or there is too much or not half enough water, or more or less bread; I venture to say that if any person would take the trouble to go from house to house, where there are patients, and taste toast and water at each, they would not find two of the same flavor, and perhaps not any of it properly made. To make it to perfection, proceed as follows: cut a piece of crusty bread, about a quarter of a pound in weight, place it upon a toasting-fork, and hold it about six inches from the fire; turn it often, and keep moving it gently until of a light yellow color, then place it nearer the fire, and when of a good brown chocolate color, put it into a jug, and pour three pints of boiling water over; cover the jug until cold, then strain it into a clean jug, and it is ready for use: never leave the toast in it, for in summer it would cause fermentation in a short time. I would almost venture that such toast and water as I have described would keep good a considerable time in bottles.

The idea that bread must be burnt black to make toast and water is quite a popular delusion, for nothing nourishing could come from it: if your house was burnt to ashes, it would be valueless; and the same with burnt bread, which merely makes the water black, but the nutriment of the bread, intended to relieve the chest, has evaporated in smoke by being burnt.

PUDDINGS FOR INVALIDS.

103. _Apple and Rice._--Boil half an ounce of Carolina rice in a gill of milk until very tender, then add a very small piece of butter, sugar, a little cinnamon, and a grain of salt; then peel, core, and slice a middling-sized apple, which put into a stewpan, with a small piece of butter, a little sugar, and a drop of water, and stew it until tender; when done, put the apple in a small tart-dish, mix an egg with the rice, which pour over the apple, and bake ten minutes in a moderate oven; it may also be made quite plain, if preferred.

104. _Custard Pudding._--Boil one pint of milk, with a small piece of lemon-peel and half a bay-leaf, for three minutes; then pour these on to three eggs, mix it with one ounce of sugar well together, and pour it into a buttered mould: steam it twenty-five minutes in a stewpan with some water (see No. 112), turn out on a plate and serve.

105. _Rice Puddings._--Wash well two ounces of rice in some water, strain, then put it into a pint and a half of boiling milk, with a small piece of lemon-peel, cinnamon, and half a bay-leaf, tied together; let it boil gently, stirring it occasionally, until quite tender; then put to it one ounce of butter, a little grated nutmeg, a tablespoonful of sugar, and two eggs; pour it into a buttered tart-dish, and bake it half an hour.

106. _Macaroni Pudding._--Blanch two ounces of Naples macaroni in some water for eight or ten minutes; strain it, add it to one pint of boiling milk, in which you have previously boiled a piece of lemon-peel, cinnamon, and one ounce of butter; when the macaroni is quite tender, add two eggs and sugar enough to sweeten it: steam it one hour in a stewpan, in a buttered tart-dish.

107. _Vermicelli Pudding._--Boil one pint of milk, with a piece of lemon-peel, half a bay-leaf, and a piece of cinnamon, then add one ounce of vermicelli; when reduced to half, add two eggs, and a little sugar; pour these in a buttered mould, and steam it half an hour.

108. _Tapioca Pudding._--Boil one pint of milk, with a piece of lemon-peel and a little cinnamon; then add two ounces of tapioca; reduce to half; add two eggs, and one ounce of butter; pour these in a buttered mould, and steam half an hour.

109. _Bread Pudding._--Boil one pint of milk, with a piece of cinnamon and lemon-peel; pour it on two ounces of bread-crumbs; then add two eggs, half an ounce of currants, and a little sugar: steam it in a buttered mould for one hour.

110. _Cabinet Pudding._--Boil one pint of milk, with a piece of lemon-peel, pour it on one ounce of sponge biscuit, let it soak half an hour, then add three eggs, half an ounce of currants, and very little sugar: steam it in a buttered mould, lined with raisins, one hour.

111. _Bread and Butter Pudding._--Butter a tart-dish well and sprinkle some currants all round it, then lay in a few slices of bread and butter; boil one pint of milk, pour it on two eggs well whipped, and then on the bread and butter; bake it in a hot oven for half an hour.

112. _A Small Bread Pudding._--Cut an ounce of the crumb of bread into thin slices, with the least piece of butter spread over each, which place in a small tart-dish; then break an egg into a cup with a teaspoonful of sugar and a little powdered cinnamon, beat well; then add about six tablespoonfuls of boiled milk, mix well together, pour over the bread, and bake in a slow oven, or steam it, if preferred, by standing the dish in a stewpan containing about half a pint of water, that is, the water should be about half way up to the rim of the dish; set the stewpan (covered close) upon the fire, and let it slowly boil about ten minutes or longer, until the pudding is properly set, then take the cover from the stewpan, which let remain a few minutes longer upon the fire; then take out the pudding, wipe the dish, and serve.

_Fish for Invalids._--Slips, soles, flounders, whitings, and smelts are the lightest of any fish, and upon that account more to be recommended to invalids in a state of convalescence.

113. _Whiting, plain boiled._--Put two quarts of water into a small fish kettle, with about an ounce of salt; when boiling, put in the whiting, draw the kettle to the corner of the fire to keep it just simmering, and no more; a whiting of the ordinary size would take about ten minutes; when done, which you can tell by trying with the point of a knife whether it leaves the bone easily, take it up carefully, and dish it upon a clean napkin, with a few sprigs of parsley round; although the parsley is of course useless as far as the stomach is concerned, nothing can be more pleasing to an invalid than to see his meals carefully cooked and invitingly served.

At any time I prefer a whiting with the skin on, whether boiled, grilled, or fried; a little butter just melted, with a pinch of salt, and the least drop of lemon-juice added, is very excellent to eat as sauce with them. Should you purchase your fish in the country, it will of course require cleaning, by opening the belly and pulling out the gills and interior; but never wash these fish, merely wipe them with a cloth.

114. _Broiled Whiting._--Having cleaned your whiting, and wiped it gently dry with a cloth, flour it all over lightly, rub the gridiron over with a little oil, lay the whiting upon it, and put it over a clear fire, but not too close, turn it carefully three or four times, and when it feels firm to the touch of the finger, it is done; if a large one, it will take about twenty minutes; sprinkle a little salt over, if required, and serve with plain melted butter, with a few drops of essence of anchovies in it.

115. _Sautéd Whitings._--Put some fat or butter in a frying-pan, which place over a clear but moderate fire; have your whiting floured as in the last, and when the fat or butter is melted, lay it in the pan; let it sauté slowly until it is done, which try as in either of the last two; when done, drain it upon a cloth, sprinkle a little salt over, and serve.

If fried, enveloped in bread-crumbs, dip the fish lightly into flour, then egg it all over with a paste-brush, and dip in some very fine bread-crumbs, and fry it rather longer, but do not let the fat get black, or it will give the fish a black, heavy appearance, and quite spoil the flavor. Fish fried in oil would have a much better appearance than when fried in fat, but probably would be objectionable to a weak stomach. They ought to be completely covered with the fat.

116. _Smelts_ are very delicate fish, but ought never to be plain boiled; being confident of the good use they may be turned to as a diet for the sick, I shall here give two receipts for dressing them very plainly, yet still very palatable. Choose them rather large,--if so, two would be sufficient for a meal,--having previously drawn and cleansed them, put a gill of water into a small stewpan, with a little salt, a saltspoonful of powdered sugar, and four small sprigs of parsley; when boiling lay in your smelts, which let simmer five minutes, or more, if larger than usual, keeping the stewpan well covered; then take them out carefully, lay them upon a dish, and pour the broth over; both fish and broth are excellent. They may be cooked the same way in the oven.

Another way is to add a little arrow-root, mixed with a drop of cold water, to the above, when half cooked; it makes it very soothing to the chest. Be extremely careful not to let the fish or liquor burn at the bottom of the stewpan; there should be about three parts of the quantity of liquor when cooked as you first put in water, allowing one quarter to evaporate whilst boiling.

117. _Broiled Smelts._--When cleansed and wiped dry with a cloth, dip them lightly into flour, and put them upon a gridiron over a slow fire, for five, or six minutes, turning them carefully when half done; serve plain, or with a little sauce, if allowed, as many patients are forbidden moist food. I can highly recommend any kind of white fish cooked in this manner; and it is well known that nothing in the way of food is more digestible than fish.

Water souchet of flounders, soles, and slips may also be served to invalids, by proceeding the same as above.

_Meat, Game, and Poultry,_ of every kind, for invalids, ought to be served as free from fat as possible.

118. _A Mutton Chop._--Choose one from a lean loin of mutton, or if one in the house rather fat cut the greater part of it off; your chop should be about six ounces in weight, and cut off an equal thickness; lay it upon a table, and beat it lightly with the flat part of your chopper, then lay it upon a gridiron, over a good clear fire; season with a little salt, if allowed, and turn it four or five times whilst broiling; it will require about eight minutes over a good fire, but of course longer over an indifferent one; if by pressing it with a knife it feels firm, it is done; serve upon a very hot plate, for if partly cold, the least fat would immediately set, and be very unpleasant, especially to a person unwell.

119. _Plain Mutton Cutlet, from the Neck._--An invalid will frequently be tired of a mutton chop; and for my own part I must say a cutlet is far superior in flavor, and has a much neater appearance; cut off a rib from the neck, of the same thickness as a mutton chop; cut away the skin upon each side of the bone, to the chine, which chop off; trim away the greater part of the fat, cut a piece at the end of the bone, which scrape off, leaving about half an inch of the bone bare; then beat it lightly with the flat of the chopper; season; broil and serve very hot, as in the last.

120. _Stewed Chop or Cutlet._--Put it into a stewpan or small saucepan, with a pint of water, and a little salt and sugar; let it stew as gently as possible from an hour and a half to two hours, skim off all the scum and fat, and the patient may partake of both chop and broth; if seasoning is allowed, put a teaspoonful of pearl-barley, with a little celery, leek, and turnip, cut up very small, into the stewpan with the water, when you first put the chop on, and proceed as before; serve the broth in a soup basin, with the chop in it; should the meat happen to be tough, let it stew rather longer; the broth should be reduced to about half a pint.

121. _Beef, Rump Steak._--The tenderest part of the rump should be selected, about half a pound, not cut too thick, and very even; place it upon your gridiron over a moderate fire, turning it frequently; when done, sprinkle a little salt over; ten minutes would cook it thoroughly, but if wanted underdone, as in many cases where the patient only sucks the gravy, less time must be allowed.

122. _Stewed Beef._--Put the same quantity of beef as in the last into a saucepan, with a quart of water, which place over the fire, and when beginning to boil, well skim, then add a little celery, turnip, and carrot, the whole weighing about an ounce, and cut very small, let stew gently about three hours, by which time the broth will be reduced to one quarter; skim all the fat off carefully; serve the meat upon a plate, and the broth in a basin.

123. _Lamb Chops or Cutlets._--Proceed as just described for mutton, but being more delicate, they will require but little more than half the time to cook.

124. _Lambs' Feet_ are very nutritious; purchase them ready cleaned; lay them ten minutes in boiling water, by doing which you will be able to draw out the leg-bone with facility; then put them in a stewpan (two would be sufficient), and pour over a pint of water with which you have mixed smoothly a tablespoonful of flour, and half a teaspoonful of salt; place them upon the fire, stirring frequently until boiling, when add a small onion, with a celery, parsley, and parsnip; boil gently for two hours, and when done, serve plain upon a plate, or with a little melted butter and parsley poured over. By using a little white broth from any meat instead of water, you make a delicious soft soup, which may be partaken of freely.

Calves' feet are dressed in the same manner, but using a double proportion of everything, and stewing them double the time; they are served precisely the same.

POULTRY FOR INVALIDS.

125. _Roast Chicken._--Procure a nice plump chicken, which draw and truss, and cut the sinews; pass the spit through under the skewer as usual, and set it down before a clear fire; after being there five minutes, have ready a pat of butter, in the bowl of a wooden spoon, with which rub the chicken all over; if the fire is too fierce, put it back a short distance, that it may roast of a yellowish-brown color; when a light smoke arises from the chicken, which will be in about twenty minutes from the time it was put down, it is done; but to be quite sure whether a bird is done, the better way is to press it lightly, with your finger and thumb; should it feel quite set, it is sufficiently cooked.

126. _Boiled Chicken._--Put a quart of water to boil in a saucepan, with a saltspoonful of salt, and two ounces of butter; when boiling, lay in the chicken, which keep gently simmering for twenty minutes, when it will be done.

By adding a few vegetables of each description to the water, and straining it when you take out the chicken, you have a very excellent broth either for the sick or healthy, especially after skimming off the fat you add a little vermicelli, which must be boiled in it five minutes.

As it is very improbable that a sick person would eat the whole of a chicken at once, I have annexed a few receipts, by which a chicken would suffice for four meals.

First, put a tablespoonful of rice in a stewpan, with half a pint of light broth; let it boil gently until the rice is in pulp, then put in the wing or leg of the previously-cooked chicken, which let remain to warm about five minutes; should the rice be too dry, add a little more broth; serve the fowl and rice together upon a hot plate. Secondly, if wanted plain, set it in a stewpan, with a few spoonfuls of stock, and let it warm gently. Thirdly, it may be folded in a sheet of paper lightly oiled, and warmed very gently upon a gridiron. Or fourthly, plain broiled upon a gridiron, and served with a little light gravy.

127. _Partridge._--Proceed in every manner to roast as just directed for the chicken; a young one would require about ten minutes, or an old one fifteen, but then the breast only ought to be eaten; whatever remains may be served in either of the ways directed for chickens.

128. _Pigeons_ may be roasted the same as partridges, but would not require so long. A pigeon may also be stewed as follows:--Put half a pint of mutton-broth into a stewpan, with a pigeon trussed as for boiling, let it stew gently twenty minutes, if young; both the pigeon and broth ought to be partaken of. Pigeons may also be broiled, by cutting them open from the bottom of the breast to the joint of the wings, but not separating them; rub over with a little butter, broil twenty minutes over a moderate fire, and serve with a little gravy.

129. _Pulled Fowl._--With the remainder of a roast or boiled fowl or chicken you may make a very light dish, by pulling off all the flesh with a fork, and putting it into a stewpan, then in another stewpan place all the bones (previously broken small with a chopper), with a little parsley, salt, sugar, and half a pint of water; let it boil gently until the water has reduced to a gill, then strain it over the flesh of the chicken in the other stewpan, which place over the fire until quite hot, and serve; should it be too thin, a small piece of butter and flour rubbed together may be added, and boiled a minute. Old or young fowls may be used, as it is not always convenient to get a young fowl, especially in the country, where everything must be turned to account and properly used: you would proceed with an old fowl the same as for a chicken, but stewing it three times as much, and adding more water in proportion; it would be here impossible to name the exact time required, as the fluctuation is so great, but by feeling the thigh of the fowl with the finger and thumb, you may ascertain, for if done sufficiently it will feel tender to the touch, and leave the bone with ease.

CULINARY CORRESPONDENCE.

LETTER No. VI

DEAREST ELOISE,--I here inclose you the last receipt which I intend
to give you for invalids. You will, no doubt, fancy that my diet is
extravagant; but let me teach you that when you must pay the
doctor's bill, which I consider an extra and painful tax upon
humanity, it is ours and their duty to try to restore health as
soon as possible, which my receipts might, if well coupled with the
science of a medical man, cause a prompt restoration, and have the
desired effect of increasing the butcher's bill by diminishing that
of the doctor. But I must also tell you that I intend this part of
our little work, if ever published, to be useful to all classes of
society, and that, among those receipts, the rich as well as the
humble, may partake and benefit by them in selecting according to
their means and their requirements. I am confident that you will
agree with me that even here I have closely studied the rules of
economy.

I shall therefore close the sick-room door to open the one of the
parlor, and to witness the merry faces of the million who have
abandoned their industrious occupations for the day, and partake,
in the family circle, their simple but substantial Sunday meal. I
always used to say, when in business, that he who works well
deserves to live well,--I do not mean to say extravagantly, but
that devoting one hour a day to their principal meal ought to be
classified as a matter of business in regard to economy. We,
therefore, must be very positive upon this important question, and
make them perceive that dining well once or twice a week is really
unworthy of such a civilized and wealthy country as ours, where
provisions cannot be excelled by any other, both in regard to
quantity and quality. Yours, etc.

HORTENSE.

LETTER No. VII

MY DEAR MRS. B.--Your observation upon the way many people live in
this country is no doubt very correct, but do you not think that if
you were not quite so abrupt on the subject, we should probably be
more likely to succeed in bringing our friends round to your style
of management; of which, for my part, I very much approve. But as
it is a matter of importance, I should like you to describe in your
next communication what are the principal and most useful joints in
a family, and to discourse on them, in pointing out the good which
may be achieved, and the evils to be avoided. Ever yours, &c.

ELOISE.

LETTER No. VIII

Many compliments to you, my dear Mrs. L.

At your request I here inclose the list you require, and which will
show you how circumscribed the middle classes are in respect to the
variation of their meals, in the way of meat and manner of cooking
it. I do not disapprove of your idea in wishing me here to give a
series or list of those provisions; but, on the other hand, I must
tell you frankly my opinion, it being a subject which for some
years I have made a study, indeed quite a hobby. If I am wrong, let
any one who knows better correct me; you will allow I am always
open to conviction and improvement, no matter how trifling, which
often leads to an important one.

I shall therefore name all joints of meat which, though numerous,
offer but little variation when continually dressed the same way,
and observe that everybody has the bad habit of running only upon a
few which are considered the best. They are as follow:

Those in beef are the sirloin, ribs, round, silver-side,
aitch-bone.

In mutton--leg, saddle, haunch, loin.

Lamb--fore-quarter and leg.

Veal--fillet, loin.

Pork--leg, sparerib, loin.

Every one of these joints are of the most expensive parts, because
generally used, although many of the other parts are equally as
good, as I shall prove to you, in the receipts which I shall write
for the dinner, what can be done in the way of made dishes out of
those parts which are rarely or never used in this country by the
middle classes, which will more clearly develope to you my ideas on
the subject Besides, there is this advantage, that if a small
tradesman were to follow these receipts, and buy every other time
he goes to the butcher what he now considers a second-class joint,
he would not only be conferring a public benefit, but also one on
himself, and be the means of diminishing the price of those now
considered the first class, which at the present moment bear too
high a price in proportion, but which his pride causes him to
purchase.

To prove to you that my argument is correct, look carefully over
the inclosed list, which contains all the joints that are cut from
beef, veal, mutton, lamb, pork, and you will find that ten of the
prime are in daily use to one of the other, and principally for a
want of the knowledge of cookery; leaving the science of cooking
our food to a fierce or slow fire, or plunging our expensive
provisions into an ocean of boiling water, which is thrown away,
after having absorbed a great portion of the succulence of the
meat. Try the receipt for the Pot-au-feu; taste the broth and eat
the meat, and tell me which plan you consider the best. Do not
think that I object to our plain joint, because, now and then, I am
rather partial to them; but why not manage to make use of the
broth, by diminishing the quantity of water, and simmering them,
instead of galloping them at a special railway-train speed? Were
the middle classes only but slightly acquainted with the domestic
cookery of France, they would certainly live better and less
expensively than at present, very often, four or five different
little made dishes may be made from the remains of a large Sunday's
joint, instead of its appearing on the table of a wealthy tradesman
for several days cold, and often unsightly, and backed by a bottle
of variegated-colored pickles, made with pyroligneous acid, which
sets my teeth on edge merely in thinking of it, and balanced by a
steaming dish of potatoes, which, seen through the parlor window by
the customers in the shop, would make them think there was a grand
gastronomic festivity taking place at Mr. A.'s or B.'s, the
butterman or greengrocer; this may be excusable once or twice, on a
hot summer's day, with an inviting salad, seasoned with merely
salt, pepper, oil, and vinegar, but the continual repetition of
that way of living in winter is, I consider, a domestic crime.

You will, perhaps, say that, in large firms, where forty or fifty,
or more young men dine every day, or even in public establishments
still more numerous, many professed cooks would be required to
dress the dinner, if my plan was adopted; not at all, if the
kitchen is properly constructed: but in these establishments,
joints, of necessity, must be the principal viand, and there is
very little left; what there is, is consumed cold for supper; but
even there an amelioration might take place, although only a plain
joint, either boiled or roasted, roasted or boiled, which is
generally the yearly bill of fare, and so simple, yet seldom well
done, and often badly, which, in a large establishment, must create
great waste, and make bad food out of good meat, and that for want
of care or a little more knowledge, which may appear to you but a
trifling matter, but not so to thousands of poor old people, with
toothless gums and fatigued stomachs, made comfortable within walls
erected by the good feelings of government, or by public charity. I
have often thought, when visiting these establishments, that a
professed cook ought to be appointed, as well as a medical man, to
visit all such in the metropolis, not only to inspect the quality
of the provisions, but superintend the arrangements of the dietary
table, and see that the viands are properly cooked, and thus
correct the lamentable ignorance which exists at the present day; I
am confident that tons of meat are daily wasted in such
institutions throughout the country, which, if well employed, would
feed a great part of the starving poor of the United Kingdom. The
same system ought to be adopted in all the provincial towns; and,
if it was in existence, we should not have to deplore such
lamentable scenes which we had latterly to witness at Tooting,
where, no doubt, many were to blame; for, by the calculation I have
made, the allowance, though rather limited, was amply large enough
to allow for good provisions, and leave sufficient remuneration for
any reasonable and not covetous man. Why should not these poor
children be watched over, and made as comfortable in every respect
as the wish of those who pay to support them require? besides, it
has an effect upon after generations; for upon the food at the
period of growth depends the nature of the mind at a more advanced
age, as well as the stature of the man. Do we not evince our care
to objects of the brute creation, and feed, with the greatest
attention, the race-horse? compare him with others of his species
not so humanely treated, and note the difference: so it is with the
human race; and I might almost say the prosperity of a country
depends upon the food of its youth. You will perhaps think that I
am rather sharp in my remarks, and probably longer than is
required, but still it will be gratifying to both of us, should we
find that these remarks prove beneficial to such establishments as
above-mentioned; and it is only by giving notoriety to these
important details, and being positive in exposing the truth, that
we can be believed and followed, and you must not mind displeasing
the few, if you are to be useful to the many. Forever, &c.

HORTENSE.

LETTER No. IX

MY DEAR HORTENSE,--After the receipt of your last observations,
which, on first seeing, I thought too long, but after having read
them over again, I am convinced that I shall not be able to shorten
them; at all events, there is a great deal of truth in them, and,
as you justly say, they are the observations of a person who has
constantly studied domestic comfort and economy; I shall therefore
copy them in the journal just as you send them to me. Truly yours,

ELOISE.

LETTER No. X

MY DEAR ELOISE,--I am glad to hear that you will not alter any of
my last copy sent, because I assure you I wrote with a full
conviction that I was right, and from facts which experience alone
can engrave on the memory; but, however, we will now proceed: but I
think it will be necessary to alter our original intention, namely,
in order to save any confusion, to class all the receipts for the
dinner together, and thus form a large bill of fare, and follow, on
a small plan, what M. Soyer, of the Reform Club, has done on a
large scale, in his 'Gastronomic Regenerator,' by which the most
inexperienced hands may easily provide a large or small dinner
adapted for all classes, without committing a blunder, and thus
make a selection from soups, different dishes of fish, and an
innumerable number of removes; entrées, roasts, savory dishes,
vegetables, sweets, dessert, &c., and having chosen one or two of
each series, and, on referring to the receipt, an idea of their
cost, within a few pence of the market-price, may be gained.

Let me know, dear, by return of post, if you approve of my new
idea, as it is rather deviating from our original one; but observe,
that having so very distinctly given the Breakfast Receipts, and
also for Invalids, it will be more clearly understood than by
repeating the same over and over again, which would be unavoidable
if following our first proposition. Yours truly, in haste,

HORTENSE.

LETTER No. XI

MY DEAR HORTENSE,--Never were you inspired by a better idea
respecting your new plan; it is so clearly explained, that I fancy
our labor is over; but I must tell you that, on the receipt of
your last, I wrote to M. Soyer, to inquire if he would object to
our taking a few hints from his "Kitchen at Home," which forms the
last part of his work. His answer was immediate, short, and as
follows:

"DEAR MADAM,--It would be entirely deviating from the preface of my
'Gastronomic Regenerator' to refuse you anything in my power; and
as your simple demand lies within that scope, you are quite welcome
to take a few hints, if you require them for your little work, from
the part entitled 'My Kitchen at Home.'

"Wishing your exertions may be well appreciated, I am, dear madam,
most sincerely, your humble and devoted,

"Reform Club.

A. SOYER."

As you have his book, you, no doubt, know to which part he alludes.
He says, in his preface, that he has made it a rule never to refuse
ladies anything in his power; so far he has kept his word with us:
so you may, dearest, if you require, make use of his offer. I shall
expect, by the next post, the commencement of the Dinner Receipts,
which I am confident you will make as simple and as short as
possible. With kindest regards, yours,

ELOISE.

_Roasting, Baking, Boiling, Stewing, Braising, Frying, Sautéing, Broiling._

ROASTING being the most general in use, we will first describe it, although not that which was first put in practice in cooking, it being evidently an improvement on broiling: we can easily understand how, in the early primitive times, man, finding that his food got covered with the ashes with which he cooked his meat, he would invent a species of grate upon which he could raise the fire, and cook his meat before it: this primitive mode of cooking has lasted, in many countries, up to the present day, and even in London to within a few years; for I remember seeing, in the old Goldsmith's Hall, a fire-place, consisting of stages, on which was laid the wood, and when the meat, &c., was spitted and arranged before it, the wood was lighted, and a man turned the spits. (It was, no doubt, from arranging the wood thus in stages that the name of range was derived.) In many noblemen's castles and ecclesiastical establishments, dogs were kept to turn the spit, from whence we have those of the name of turnspit; whilst in others, where there happened to be a person of a mechanical turn of mind, they applied a water-wheel to the purpose, and the water from it formed a stream in the kitchen, which served as a reservoir for live fish. Different opinions exist as to the mode and time required for roasting, but this must all depend upon the nature of the fire and the meat. In the Receipts will be found the time which each requires. My plan is to make up as large a fire as the nature of the grate will allow, because I can place my joint near or not, as may be required, and thus obtain every degree of heat.

BAKING is a branch of the art of cooking which, although one of the oldest, is the least understood. (As I shall have to refer to this subject again, I will give the reason why in a future letter.) It is performed in various kinds of air-tight chambers, called ovens, the best of which have the same form as in the time of the Egyptians. Previous to the art of baking being practised, boiled pulse and corn were the food of the people; even Rome contained no bakers until near six hundred years after it was founded. Of late years, great improvements have been made in the construction of ovens for baking of meat, called roasting ovens, which cause great economy in the expenditure of fuel; and, in large public establishments, where a number of the same kind of joints are required, it is the best plan of cooking. In the Receipts will be found the time required by each for baking, but, in a general way, for meat, hot ovens are the best; for poultry, not so hot as meat; and pastry, according to its kind. In using dishes or utensils for the oven, they ought, if of metal, to be of galvanized iron, and separate ones for meat and fish.

BOILING is the next branch of the art which is of the most importance and appears the most simple, yet, at the same time, the most difficult, and is a subject upon which, if I were to dilate, would occupy a good quarto volume; it is one of those easy things which it is supposed everybody can do, and therefore no attention is paid to it, and it is generally done badly. According to the way in which it is done, meat may be rendered hard and tough or tender, lose or retain its flavor or nourishment; great difference of opinion exists amongst medical men which are the easiest of digestion--roasted or boiled meats. I say it is a subject quite impossible to decide, as it must depend upon the different constitutions and climate; for we might as well say that the food of the Esquimaux is adapted for the native of Italy.

STEWING ought to be the best understood, on account of its economy; pieces of coarse meat, subjected to stewing, if properly done, become tender, as the gelatinous parts become partly dissolved; it should be done slowly, the pan partly uncovered, and frequently skimmed. Great cleanliness should be observed in all the vessels used for stewing.

BRAISING is the next and most important part of the art of cooking, and, like the sauté, belongs entirely to the French school, from whom it takes its name, _braise_ being the remains of wood burnt in the oven, or live charcoal: and as this plan of cookery requires the action of the fire under and over the braising-pan, which is air-tight, in order that the aromatic flavor arising from its contents may be imbibed by the meat or poultry, and give it that succulence so much esteemed by epicures. The braise is put on the cover, which, in some cases, is made deep on purpose to hold it. Its origin is stated to be owing to a gastronomic society which was formerly in existence in Paris, whose object was to benefit and improve the art of cookery, and who offered a reward of a silver gridiron to any culinary artist who would discover a new mode of dressing a turkey. Although a gridiron was, no doubt, intended to be used, yet a young artist named La Gacque, warmed by the offer, directed his imagination to quite a different mode, and used the pan instead of the gridiron, and thus composed the braise, which was unanimously approved of by that scientific, gastronomic, and epicurean body, who awarded him the prize. The chief art in braising is to do it slowly, taking care that the ingredients are well-proportioned, receipts for which will be found in their proper place.

FRYING.--Of all the apparently simple modes of cookery there is none more so than that of frying, but yet how rare to meet with it done properly. I believe it is to be attributed, in a great measure, to the idea that, to do it well is expensive. I have therefore made a series of experiments upon a plan such as should be followed in every private house, and I am convinced that to do it well is cheaper than doing it badly; but, in the first place, we ought to consider, What is frying? It is the insertion of any substance into boiling oil, or grease, by which the surface of that substance becomes carbonized, and the heat which effects this object is sufficient to solidify the albumen and gelatine, or, more commonly speaking, cooked; to do this properly, the substance ought to be covered by the liquid, so that the heat acts all over it at the same time, or otherwise the osmazome, or gravy, will be dried out of that part which is not covered, and the succulence and flavor of the viand lost; or, should the liquid not be of that degree of heat which would carbonize the surface on the moment of its immersion, it would then enter into the substance, render it greasy, and destroy its flavor, which no degree of heat afterwards could remedy. Those articles which are fried are generally those which have a coating of materials (such as bread-crumbs and batter) which are quickly carbonized, and thus form a crust which prevents the grease penetrating, concentrates the liquids, and preserves the flavor of the article; the carbonization once effected, the fire should be immediately moderated, particularly if the article is large, in order that the interior may become properly solidified. All articles properly fried are generally much liked, as they are agreeable to the eye, and afford a pleasing variety.