Chapter I: Part 1

THE MURRAY RIVER:

BEING A
JOURNAL OF THE VOYAGE
OF THE
"LADY AUGUSTA" STEAMER
FROM THE
GOOLWA, IN SOUTH AUSTRALIA,
TO
GANNEWARRA, ABOVE SWAN HILL, VICTORIA;
A DISTANCE FROM THE
SEA MOUTH OF 1400 MILES.

BY ARTHUR KINLOCH, Esq.,
CLERK OF THE EXECUTIVE COUNCIL OF SOUTH AUSTRALIA.

LONDON:
HOPE & CO., 16, GREAT MARLBOROUGH STREET.
1856.

TO
HIS EXCELLENCY SIR HENRY EDWARD FOX YOUNG, KNIGHT,
LIEUTENANT-GOVERNOR OF SOUTH AUSTRALIA,
WHO HAS KINDLY AUTHORISED
MY PUBLICATION OF A JOURNAL OF THE EXPEDITION ON THE MURRAY,
I RESPECTFULLY
DEDICATE THIS SHORT NARRATIVE OF THE VOYAGE
OF THE
FIRST STEAMER ON THE WATERS OF THAT NOBLE RIVER.

ARTHUR KINLOCH.

PREFACE.

Lest this description of the River Murray should appear in some points to differ from the accounts of other travellers, it may be necessary to observe that the present little work is merely a _Journal_ or daily record of what the writer observed during his voyage up the River, which was at the time considerably flooded, though it had not then attained its highest elevation, which occurs about December.

The English reader may also bear in mind that rivers in England are not the scale whereby to estimate the streams of other portions of the globe, or even of Europe, and that some of the larger rivers of that Continent are in like manner subject to the vicissitudes of dry seasons and partial floods.

This occurs particularly in Spain and in the South of France, as, for example, in the Rhone, which is materially influenced by the seasons in its volume of water.

In more tropical climes the difference is still greater; thus, the rise of the Nile is sometimes not less than thirty-eight feet, that of the Euphrates twelve feet, that of the Tigris twenty feet; whilst in India the large rivers are also increased or diminished in a considerable degree during the dry and wet seasons.

The English reader, therefore, the writer would again repeat, should not be surprised at hearing of the easy navigability of the greatest Australian river, or wonder that other works have stated the stream of the Murray as quite insignificant and ill adapted for steamers.

The voyage of the _Lady Augusta_ steamer has proved the fact of the navigation being open for at least six months during a very dry season, and no doubt can exist that in ordinary years the River Murray may be used by steamers for at least seven months.

A system of embankments and occasional canals at a more distant day, when labour shall become abundant, will probably lay open the course of the river for a still longer period, although the present navigability has been deemed sufficient for all immediate purposes of traffic.

The first Navigators by Steam of the River Murray; or, a List of the Passengers, Officers, and Crew of the "Lady Augusta" Steamer and the "Eureka" Barge.

Passengers.

His Excellency Sir H. E. F. Young, Lieutenant-Governor of South
Australia.

J. Grainger, Esq., M.L.C.
Wm. Younghusband, Esq., M.L.C, and Agent for the Murray Steamers.
R. Davenport, Esq., M.L.C.
A. Kinloch, Esq., Clerk Executive Council.
Geo. Palmer, Esq., Indian Civil Service.
Geo. Mason, Esq., Sub-Protector of Aborigines.
E. W. Andrews, Esq., _South Australian Register_.
Travers Finnis, Esq.
James Allen, Esq.
Regd. Bright, Esq., (left the party at Swan Hill).
H. Jamieson, Esq., of Mildura (joined the party on the river, at his
own station).
Mrs. Finniss.
Mrs. Younghusband.
Mrs. Irvine.
Miss Sarah Younghusband.
Miss Eliza Younghusband.
Miss Louisa Younghusband.
Isabella Williamson.

Officers and Crew of the "Lady Augusta" and the "Eureka" Barge.

Commander, Francis Cadell.

_Lady Augusta._
Wm. Davidson, Master.
Wm. Webb, Chief Officer.
R. Napier, Engineer.
Thomas Nevin, Seaman.
Henry Petrie, ditto.
Robert Robson, Stoker.
Evan Thomas, ditto.
Wm. Cruise Teague,[1] Stoker.
Lewis Chandler, Chief Steward.
John McAulay, Second Steward.
Jemy, Native of China.
Wm. Gylmour, Cook.
_Eureka._
Edmund Robertson, Master.
J. H. Copeland, Chief Officer (a native of New York).
John Nelson, Purser (native of New South Wales).
Jimmy (South Sea Islander).
Tee Harry (South Sea Islander).
Hy. Winsby, Carpenter.
Neil McGregor, Carpenter's Mate (from New Brunswick).
Arman (Madrassee).
Kurreem (Bengalee).
James Giles.
Three Wellington Blacks.
One Police Trooper, John Phillips, joined the party, on duty, at Mr.
Chapman's Paringa.

Total--Forty-five persons.

JOURNAL
OF
VOYAGE ON THE MURRAY.

Amongst the anomalies which may be said to distinguish the continent of Australia from other inhabited portions of the globe, not the least remarkable perhaps has been the almost unnoticed existence of one of the longest and most navigable rivers in the world. This river is the Murray, which, deriving its sources from the deep gorges over which Mount Kosciusko, the loftiest of the Australian Alps, rears its snowy crest, pursues its placid course for upwards of two thousand[2] miles through the Colonies of New South Wales, Victoria, and South Australia, until, losing its channel in the broad but shallow Lake Alexandrina, it eventually finds a passage for its waters through the boisterous surges which beat upon the shores of Encounter Bay. This great stream, exceeding in the extent of its course the Ganges, the Indus, or the La Plata, three of the longest rivers in the world, and with thrice the development of the Rhine, the Rhone, or the Elbe, is fed also by tributaries, which, in magnitude and, during certain seasons, in navigability, may not be much inferior to those European streams. These are the Darling, the Lachlan, and the Murrumbidgee; of which the first, rising in the vicinity of Moreton Bay, in about latitude 28° and longitude 152° 30' (and with tributaries reaching almost to the tropic), after stretching for about half its course, or near one thousand miles, in a west and south-west direction, descends at length to join its waters with the Murray, in latitude 34° 10' and longitude 142°.

The second, the Lachlan, rising in the Blue Mountains, near Bathurst, trends to the north-west, but eventually unites with the main river, about 200 miles in a south-easterly direction from the junction of the Darling, and after having been previously swelled by the waters of the Murrumbidgee for a distance of 150 miles. This last river, which issues not far from the Maneroo Plains, east of the Australian Alps, at a point more distant still than the sources of the Murray, has a tortuous course in a westerly direction for many hundred miles, with a stream described by Captain Sturt as rapid and impetuous until its junction with the Lachlan, in longitude 144° 20'. If it should prove navigable by steam, the advantages that would accrue to the adjacent province could hardly be inferior to those anticipated from the opening of the water communications of the Murray.

In addition to the streams which thus increase the waters of the Murray throughout its sinuous course, it enumerates among its tributaries many rivers which, from their length, if not from the varied country they traverse, cannot but be deemed interesting, if not important. Such are the Lodden, Campaspe, Goulburn, Mitta-Mitta, Ovens, and others, including the Lindesay, first noticed by Captain Sturt, and which, passing through much auriferous country, severally and conjointly water about two-thirds of the province of Victoria, or a superficial extent of more than 50,000 square miles.

Independent, moreover, of these minor affluents which swell the drainage amount of the river Murray--a basin stretching from near the 25th to the 36th parallel of latitude, and from the 139th to beyond the 152nd degree of east longitude, an estimated extent of 540,600 square miles,[3] or nearly seven times the superficial extent of Great Britain--there exists in close connection with the main stream a network of rivers which may perhaps have been destined to fulfil those purposes which the vagaries of Nature have transferred to the parent river. These are denominated the Edward, Logan, Wakool, and Neimur Rivers; which, having a more direct course than the Murray itself, would, but for their unfortunate termination, after some hundred miles in a shallow creek, at no very distant period, have proved themselves of inestimable value to the internal prosperity of the adjacent provinces. As it is, nothing but a superabundant population will probably succeed in turning these streams to a useful or, at least, a navigable end.

The Murray, thus combining within its basin nearly the entire drainage of the province of Victoria, with a large portion of that of New South Wales, and much of the eastern part of South Australia, appears to have been unknown to British Colonists before 1830, when Captain Charles Sturt, of the 39th Regiment--one of the most ardent and intrepid explorers the world has ever seen--whilst tracing the source, or rather course, of the Murrumbidgee, by order of the Sydney Government, came upon this noble river; to which, in honour of the then Colonial Secretary, the distinguished Sir George Murray, he gave its present name. His party, on this occasion, consisted, himself included, of no more than eight individuals, a portion of whom were convict prisoners, the main body of the expedition having been left (January 7th) in depôt at the Murrumbidgee, with instructions to repair, after a few days' delay, to the Goulburn Plains, from whence a communication might be maintained with Sydney. Captain Sturt's means of transport were comprised in a whale boat and small skiff, built in seven days on the Murrumbidgee, and with these means and a stock of provisions barely sufficient, it afterwards appeared, for subsistence, this determined man did not hesitate to follow the course of the Murray to its mouth; this, after many obstacles, in the Murrumbidgee, from the "snags" or sunken logs with which it was encumbered, and, at that season, it appears from the rapidity of the current, and in the main river (which averaged 200 yards in breadth) from the unequivocally hostile demeanour of the numerous tribes of natives encountered on its banks, he reached in thirty-two days, from the depôt. Thence, after traversing the broad but shallow lake in which the Murray terminates before reaching the sea, finding it useless to attempt to force a passage in his frail boat through the dangerous navigation of the sea mouth, or hopeless of any advantage to his party, even were it effected, he took the decided, though perhaps inevitable, course of retracing his steps up the stream and thus returning to the depôt of his party; who, he conceived, would then be in search of him. With an aching heart, but a firm will, as Captain Sturt himself relates, was this resolution carried into effect, and after thirty-nine days from the sea, on the very day his stock of flour had failed him, and when his party were all but incapable of further exertion, he fell in with his people, who had been summoned to his aid by two of the heroic crew who had shared his dangers and privations; and whom, as a last resource, he had dispatched to seek the depôt.

The length of the water passage thus effected was eighty-eight days; and Capt. Sturt estimated the distance traversed on the different rivers at 2,000 miles, during which, with the exception of the timber on the Murrumbidgee, and the rare occurrence of a sandspit on the main stream, no obstacle to steam navigation was discovered. The official report was forwarded to Sydney, and published by the Government, and is to be found appended to Capt. Sturt's own narrative of his adventurous voyage.[4] No steps, however, appear to have been taken by those in authority to render available the great discovery which the energies of this brave man had thus rendered patent to all.

At length, in the year 1850, Sir Henry Young, the Lieutenant-Governor of South Australia, an officer of enlarged ideas and considerable knowledge of geographical subjects, acquired during a lengthened service in many parts of the world, appears to have taken up the matter, and brought it before the Colonial Legislature. In September and October, 1850, accompanied by the Surveyor-General of the Province, and some friends, including ladies, His Excellency ascended the Murray as far as its confluence with the Darling, or above 600 miles, and found it navigable with ease throughout that extent, with a breadth varying from 180 to 300 yards, and a depth of water of from two to four and even five fathoms. The project, in the mean time, had been opposed by the Legislative Council; who, actuated, it would seem, by mistaken views of the real interests of the Colony, objected especially to the appropriation of £20,000 from the Land Fund, in the construction of a tramline to connect the Murray at the Goolwa with the conveniences of the harbour at Port Elliot--a distance of nearly eight miles. Sir Henry Young was, however, fortunate enough to obtain the approbation of the Secretary of State for the Colonies to the proposed scheme, as also the general good opinion of the Colony in favour of the Murray navigation; whilst, with regard to interference with the supply of labour, as alleged by the opponents of the project, the recorded opinion of Earl Grey, that "the execution of the work could not fail to promote the sale, at an enhanced price, of the land benefitted by the proposed communication," must have been particularly gratifying to His Excellency. Moreover, as His Lordship observed, "the funds applicable to the purposes of emigration would assuredly be increased, and labour itself economised by providing for a more expeditious and less costly mode of conveying produce to a place of shipment, from an extensive and important district."

The necessity of the harbour at Port Elliot arises from the difficulty of navigating the Murray sea-mouth at all times or seasons; nor, indeed, is it probable that any undertaking will thoroughly overcome this obstacle, until a crowded population or an overflowing treasury shall be enabled to cope with the difficulty by concentrating the waters of the Murray in a narrow and more rapid channel in place of their, at present, vague and diffused passage over the broad but shallow surface of Lake Alexandrina. A natural breakwater has rendered the formation of the port in this locality inexpensive; but to be perfectly secure in all winds, the barrier against the sea should be extended by a further addition to the present ridge of rocks, in the shape of a breakwater arm. Labour is, however, at present so costly, that no likelihood exists of this purpose being speedily effected. An application to the Admiralty for the assistance of a man of war's crew in the formation of a secure port at a point likely soon to become of considerable importance, might perhaps be deemed irregular: though with the existing dearth of labour, if likely to be attended with success, it were well worthy the consideration of the Executive. Indeed, it may here, _en passant_, be observed that, in all human probability, the day is not far distant when to the exertions of the sister services of the Mother Country--the British Army and Navy--Australia must owe the greatest and most beneficial changes her destinies have as yet demanded.

As to the tramline to connect Port Elliot with the Goolwa, it will probably be finished in less than six months' time; and at a total cost, all necessary expenses included, of about £23,000.

To return to the more immediate subject of the Murray navigation. The descent of this river was partially effected from the township of Albury, situated 400 miles south-west from Sydney, by Mr. Richard Gerstacker, in a gum-tree canoe, at a time when "the stream was lower than ever it had been since the white man approached its banks." Mr. Gerstacker, whose progress was stopped by the sinking of his canoe on a "snag," informs us that he left Albury, on the 5th May, 1851, in a gum-tree canoe, drawing about eleven inches water; and that throughout the distance he accomplished, there would have been water for three or four inches further draught. The river, however, being unusually low, the stream appeared filled with "snags," or dead gum trees, some of which obstruct the navigation to such a degree that steam power would be necessary to dislodge them. Below the Murrumbidgee these impediments, the writer reports, for the most part ceased, and after the junction of the Darling scarcely one was to be seen; whilst the sharp bends, so embarrassing to steam navigation, were no longer met with--the river, though tortuous, offering wide sweeps which afford plenty of "sea room" in mid-channel, even for steamers of considerable size. Sandbanks, however, occasionally occurred up to the North-west Bend, but not in mid-channel.

Mr. Gerstacker, whilst confessedly unacquainted with the resources of the Murray district, or the probable requirements of the settlers on its banks, is yet of opinion that the navigation of the river would be the means of drawing a largely increasing population to the Murray, not to say, the probable cause of augmenting in an incredible degree the zeal and efforts of the present inhabitants, no longer left in a state of isolation and comparative abandonment. Moreover, it may be added, the dray journeys for the transport of wool, produce, and supplies, being not only most tedious, but beset with difficulties, considerable returns for goods and passengers would be the certain result of a regular water communication.[5] Mr. Gerstacker, after referring to the energetic efforts which, in North America, have cleared almost impassable streams from the impediments of fallen timber, &c., concludes by saying, that except in an extraordinarily dry season, even the upper part of the Hume, or Upper Murray, as far as Albury, usually contains sufficient water, during eight months of the year, to float boats drawing four or five feet; but he leaves it to those acquainted with the resources of the country bordering these rivers to decide whether sufficient remuneration would be afforded to steamers thus accomplishing the navigation.

The favourable statements of many settlers on the Murray might be added to the statements of Mr. Gerstacker, but the question has now received a more direct solution by the successful voyage of the _Lady Augusta_ steamer; before narrating which, some retrospective glance is perhaps requisite.

The opposition in the Legislative Council of South Australia to the immediate navigation of the Murray and the consequent outlay at Port Elliot and the Goolwa appears, after a time, to have ceased; and in June, 1851, a premium of £4,000 was offered by the Legislature to the first and second iron steamboats of not less than forty horse power, or more than two feet draught of water, which should succeed in navigating the Murray from the Goolwa to, at least, the junction of the Darling. This liberal offer, it seems, however, was not taken up, possibly from the difficulty of providing boats of the requisite material, and the Murray navigation was apparently deferred _sine die_. At length, Captain Francis Cadell, formerly commander of the _Queen of Sheba_ and the _Cleopatra_ steamer (1,500 tons), entered into the matter with an evident determination to carry it through. He laid on a small steamer at Sydney, of above eighty tons burthen, forty horse power, and three feet draught of water when loaded[6]--proposed to the Legislature of South Australia to carry his boat through the sea mouth--to navigate the river to the Darling (600 miles) twelve times in the year; or to perform six trips as far as Swan Hill, a distance of 1,250 miles from the sea. For the first performance he was to receive £500; for the passage up to the Darling, £1,000; and for the subsequent eleven or six trips, a further sum of £1,000--the whole in quarterly payments. These terms, proposed by himself, having been recommended to Sir Henry Young by an address from the Legislative Council, were approved of by His Excellency, who gave his assent to the apportionment of the stipulated premium for the prescribed object.

Captain Cadell then proceeded to the river, carrying with him from Melbourne a canvas boat, twenty-one feet in length and three in breadth, which, on arrival at Swan Hill, he put together, and having obtained a crew of four returning diggers, dropped down the Murray, and after visiting every station and ascertaining the probable traffic to be derived from each, in the matter of wool, produce, rations, stores, &c., reached the Goolwa in twenty-one days. There he arranged the construction of a small vessel of about 100 tons capacity, to accompany, as a lighter, the little steamer _Lady Augusta_, which in July, 1853, was navigated round from Sydney, by Mr. Davidson, formerly master of the _Hawk_ schooner; and, indeed, not the least extraordinary portion of this undertaking has been the voyage in midwinter by so small a vessel, of nearly 1,100 miles, through a sea at all times boisterous, and often most adverse even to the best and most weatherly craft. The round-house which occupies three-fourths of the _Augusta's_ deck, renders her on this account by no means fitted for the open sea; whilst it affords admirable accommodation on board for sixteen cabin passengers, including ladies, for whom a commodious after-cabin has been reserved.

These preliminary matters having been duly arranged, and the _Lady Augusta_ pushed through the sea-mouth by Captain Cadell, a party including His Excellency the Lieutenant-Governor, some Members of the Legislative Council, with ladies and other friends, was arranged to accompany the meditated expedition up the Murray, which, the return voyage included, it was supposed would occupy about five weeks.

August the 19th, accordingly, His Excellency, accompanied by Mr. J. Grainger, of the Legislative Council, and the writer, left Adelaide to ride to the Goolwa, a distance from the capital of rather more than sixty miles. The road--generally indifferent, after ascending some fine open downs--passes through Noarlunga, on the Onkaparinga, a thriving and most promising township; and the first day's halt took place at Willunga. This is one of the prettiest spots in the province, and well adapted to become, at a future and not very distant day, the resort of those inhabitants of Adelaide, who shall have the good taste or the leisure to exchange the dust, the heat, and the glare of a provincial town for the pleasing verdure of a country scene, rendered here particularly attractive by park-like glades and a charming sea-view.

A new inn would, however, be required; the accommodation of the "Bush" being quite insufficient for the traffic. On this occasion, the house being otherwise occupied, His Excellency took up his quarters for the night at Mr. Kell's; Mr. Grainger finding a bed with the clergyman of the district, a Mr. Burnett.

A few miles beyond Willunga, the country is of the richest description, combining the most attractive forest scenery with far extended land and sea views. From thence onward, however, it deteriorates sadly, terminating in that dreary expanse of bush and sand, which is here denominated "scrub." Descending to the Encounter Bay coast, a slight improvement takes place; and after emerging on the tract of land, over which runs the new tramline from Port Elliot to the Goolwa, some excellent pasture appears, which must soon assume a valuable character in connexion with the River Murray and the works in progress in this district. His Excellency repaired at once on board the _Lady Augusta_, which we reached about three p. m., there to await the arrival of Captain Cadell and party, who were to come down the following day and be present at the launching of the _Eureka_, as the new vessel built on the Goolwa by Messrs. Wisby (two brothers), formerly the carpenters of the _Cleopatra_ steamer, had been styled. Some delay, however, occurring with regard to this ceremony, Sir Henry Young repaired to the house of Mr. Laurie, the harbour agent at Port Elliot, where, with Mr. Grainger, he remained some days. The launch commenced on the 23rd; but, rather to the disappointment of the young lady destined to perform the bottle-breaking ceremony, and with the expenditure of some pretty tri-coloured silk, the _Eureka_[7] was only finally brought alongside the steamer on the morning of the 24th.

On the evening of the 25th, the _Lady Augusta_, with a full complement of passengers, and including the _Eureka_, which was towed alongside, an aggregate number of forty-three persons, steamed off from the Goolwa Jetty, amidst the cheers of the assembled settlers of the district, many of whom had traversed long distances to witness the departure of the first steamer on the waters of the Murray.

It was calculated that 300 persons were present at the launch; and, previous to the departure of the boat, a _déjeûner_, by a large and respectable number of the community, had been given to Captain Cadell, in honour of the enterprise he had engaged in, and as a mark of the sense entertained by the public of the zeal and energy with which he had carried on his measures.

To particularize the features of this trip by a diary of the daily proceedings on board, or by the diurnal progress of the little vessel against the stream, would be tedious and uninteresting. Comprising good cheer in abundance, and, with hardly the exception of an unfavourable day, unvaried fine weather, our passage up the river could not afford much scope to the imagination, or offer a prolific subject even to the highest descriptive powers.

The Murray is a noble stream; but, at the present day, not a particularly interesting, or, at any rate, a highly picturesque river. The banks throughout are pretty, sometimes even romantic, but from the sameness of the forest trees--consisting chiefly of gum tree glades--and the expanse of flooded surface through which, at this season, the vessel passed, the scenery cannot but be regarded as generally tame. The reaches, nevertheless, at times are fine, and, here and there, cliffs of moderate height, varied colours, and perhaps grotesque shape, occur to break the monotony of an otherwise interminable flat. The volume of water rolled down by the Murray is imposing, the breadth of the stream after passing Lake Alexandrina (a sheet of water about thirty miles in length and twenty-five in breadth), averaging from 150 to 300 yards; the current is ordinarily from two to three knots per hour; and the course of the river, after the first 250 miles, tortuous in the extreme. The steamer generally came to anchor in the evening, about nine or ten o'clock; and started in the morning, before dawn. Wood had been provided, at certain stations, by previous arrangement; at other points, parties from the vessel went ashore to provide fuel, the consumption of which averaged about three fourths of a ton per hour. It took 168 hours steaming to reach the Darling, where we arrived at midnight, on the 6th of September, under sail and steam; the distance being calculated at about 650 miles from the Goolwa. On the point of reaching this station, we managed to upset a native canoe or "mungo," propelled by a black and his "lubra," or spouse. The former scrambled up the vessel, but the female was compelled to swim to the shore. The man being asked why he had not attempted to assist his dusky helpmate, answered, with the utmost composure, "Plenty cold; black lubra walk well!" So much for native gallantry. The blacks on the Murray are not now so numerous as formerly, infanticide prevailing among them, it is said, to a great extent; indeed, we observed but one child in our passage up to the Murrumbidgee.

The principal stations, up to this point of the voyage, had been Mr. Mason's, Wellington; Mr. Walsh's; Mr. Scott's, Moorundee; Messrs. Chambers', Wigley's, Chapmans', Moruna, the Jackson's (commonly called Bob and Harry's), and the inn at the Darling (McLeod's). Here blacks were generally found in greater or less numbers; and, as far as we could learn, they had everywhere proved of service to the settlers. They are protected by the Government, and to a certain extent fed and clothed; but the issues of blankets and flour, in South Australia at least, are as yet too scanty. Several of these people were taken by Captain Cadell up the river, to assist his crew in procuring fuel, and they proved useful and obliging upon these occasions.

No accident, save the temporary indisposition of some of the ladies of our party, and Captain Davidson's unfortunate entanglement of his foot in the machinery, occurred to interrupt the serenity of our voyage; some atrocities, however, committed by the natives upon white men, had, it appeared, disturbed the tranquillity of the river. Mr. Scott, the Government officer from Moorundee, we found, had been in pursuit of some of these malefactors, and from this gentleman, whom with his brother we encountered at Chapman's Station (Paringa), we learned that one of these natives had been wounded desperately in an attempt to escape from the police; and that another had been killed by the settlers, whilst endeavouring to arrest him. A third, captured by one of the Adelaide police, we conveyed to the Darling, where he was handed over to Mr. Fletcher, a Magistrate of New South Wales[8], whose professional services (for he had formerly been a medical practitioner) had been called in request on Mr. Davidson's account. This gentleman, who lived fifteen miles from McLeod's, where a tolerable inn and some good horses were discovered, was sent for at His Excellency's request, and in obeying the requisition unfortunately received a fall from his horse, which, though inflicting no severer injury than a bruised forehead and face, must have been sufficiently annoying to spoil the pleasure which, in common with all other settlers upon the river, he evidently derived at the arrival of the steamer. His services, I may also mention, were called into play by the sudden illness of one of the ladies of our party, whose rashness in bathing, at an early or unseasonable hour appears to have been followed by serious though brief indisposition. Mr. Fletcher spoke with some degree of feeling of a barbarous murder committed by a black, about ten days before, upon a white man, whose horse he had undertaken to guide through a ford. Indeed, these acts of reiterated villany call for the active interference of the Sydney authorities.

The land on the Murray to this point (the Darling) is all occupied, chiefly by large stock proprietors or squatters; for agriculture, whether on account of the excessive dryness of the soil, or for want of labour, appears little attended to. The settlers seem to want energy in their pursuits, but perhaps the badness of the communications hitherto with a market, and the uncertain tenure of their runs, may explain their inactivity. Irrigation and embankment could not fail to improve the land, but if there existed no means of disposing of produce, it is easily imagined why these labours have not been tried.

On this subject, or rather with regard to the present system of land allotment, I may here observe, that His Excellency, after proclaiming, as the "Hundred of the Murray," the two miles frontage on each bank, proposes to offer for public sale blocks of land of from ten to 640 acres, granting to the occupiers a commonage in rear of their property for pastoral purposes. It is probable that such an alteration in the existing system of leases may induce a larger proportion of settlers to look to the Murray for their locations.

With respect to the much-engrossing pursuit of gold digging, which now occupies so large a portion of the population of these two Provinces (Victoria and New South Wales), it would seem that further discoveries are likely to take place. A Mr. Paterson, or a Mr. Walsh (I am not certain of the name), who visited us at the Darling, mentioned as a fact that a nugget of three or four ounces weight had been picked up on the upper Darling, by one of the settlers, in the ranges which abut on that river, and as quartz hills exist still further back, it is not improbable that considerable gold deposits may be found in these localities.

The animal and vegetable kingdom of the Murray is apparently not productive in uncommon or very peculiar productions. Of the four-footed inhabitants of the bush, up to this point of our trip (the vicinity of the Thirteen Lakes[9]), I have heard of none being seen by our party, save and except one solitary kangaroo. Ducks and quail are abundant; the former comprising the musk, black, and wood duck, teal, and widgeon. These are netted by the natives with considerable success; the plan of action being, I understood, to spread the nets over the mouths of the creeks or brooks, and then drive the birds towards them. Wild turkeys are said to be plentiful near the lakes, which are numerous on some parts of the banks, but none have as yet been seen. The white cockatoos are numerous, and occasionally a pretty parroquet has been observed. These, with pelicans, cranes, and sometimes, though rarely, a swan, comprise the chief portion of the feathered inhabitants of the Murray and its banks, but very small birds, unknown by name to those on board, have been also seen.[10] The fish of the Murray consist chiefly of the cod, perch, and cray fish, with a few small turtles, and, in the adjoining lakes, a kind of smelt. The cod is of large size and weight, and well tasted. The most delicate fish is, however, found in the Darling--the name I could not gather.

The timber on the Murray is almost entirely confined to the gum, of which there are three varieties--the white, red, and flooded; and occasionally a few pines. Edible roots are found by the natives, and comprise a considerable portion of their food; but the only fruit, as far as I could learn, in use amongst the whites, is that called the "quandong"--a species of wild peach, which is largely used as a preserve. Wild flowers are generally abundant.

At MacLeod's we embarked some cargo for Mildura; and several natives were taken on board, and one woman whose conjugal affection seemed very prominent. The males were, many of them, fine tall men, with very muscular limbs, huge beards, and unsightly countenances. It is a pity the Governments of the respective provinces, which occasionally issue blankets and rations to the Aborigines, do not extend their protecting cares still further. A supply of clothing, however scanty--were it only a long blue shirt--would be a blessing to these poor savages, who appear at times to suffer considerably from the keen cold air of the Australian wilderness; nor would it, we may presume, render them less disposed to the ameliorating influences of civilization and mental improvement.

In South Australia, considerable progress has been made in the intellectual and moral training of these degraded people, which has been chiefly owing to the exertions and indefatigable zeal of Archdeacon Hale, at Port Lincoln, where the seminary for their instruction exists. Many failures, of course, have taken place, particularly amongst the females; some of whom, after serving as domestics for several years, apparently most contented with their lot, have suddenly disappeared from their houses to seek refuge in the woods, and then relapse into their pristine barbarism--nature is invincible, it would seem.

From the Darling junction our course was marked by as few incidents as had hitherto fallen to our lot. I find my daily memoranda somewhat to the following effect:--

Wednesday, September 7th.--Left the Darling, which we found a fine broad stream with considerable depth of water,[11] after having taken in a large quantity of very indifferent wood--the steaming, in consequence, slow.

During the night and following morning, heavy rain fell, penetrating even to the interior of the cabin, probably owing to the excessive dryness of the decks, caused by the heat.

Thursday.--Towards four p.m., arrived at the Messrs. Jamieson's station, Mildura, pleasantly situated on a turn of the river, about fifty miles by water from Macleod's. Mr. Jamieson, who appears to be thoroughly acquainted with the resources and commercial statistics of the river, which he most obligingly has communicated without reserve to all on board, joined us here with a native servant, in order to accompany the expedition as far as Swan Hill, 600 or 700 miles further. About this man hangs a tale, establishing, I think, a fact, which, though generally credited with regard to native propensities, has not perhaps been thoroughly authenticated. I allude to their cannibal habits. The man, who goes by the name of Mickie, himself tells the story. He says, that, returning on one occasion from Melbourne, where he had been serving as a police trooper, he fell in with some natives of the Loddon tribe, one of whom, following him, and threatening to spear and eat him, he attacked and killed.[12] This effected, he was not content with his triumph, but did actually eat a portion of the man's body--a part of his kidney fat--which he pronounced good eating, and not unlike pork and duck. Nor does it appear that Mickie was thus prompted for want of food, or from a specific predilection for such a meal; but rather because he imagined that thus would be infused into him his enemy's strength; and that, moreover, the skin which he lavishly distributed amongst the natives of his tribe, would prove a charm for his fishing nets.

The settlers about the Darling appear desirous of coming under Adelaide jurisdiction. The fact is, they are so distant from Sydney, that they imagine themselves quite neglected by authority, and entirely cut off from all legal jurisdiction. What difference the advent of the steamer upon their waters may cause in their ideas, is yet to be seen. Undoubtedly, it is a source of unmingled satisfaction to all settlers here; indeed, we are told of some who actually meditated the abandonment of their runs, in utter despondency at the impracticability of transporting their wool produce to a port,[13] or even of obtaining the supplies necessary for their subsistence. Dancing on board the _Eureka_ till half-past ten.

Friday.--Took in a quantity of pine wood, about five tons, for fuel; and, after passing Williams's, arrived at (Carwarp) Messrs. McGrath's, a station occupied by three brothers; who, from the condition of common labourers, have raised themselves, by their industry, to a position of comparative affluence. They are the possessors of 10,000 sheep on this run, about the numbers which are depastured at Mildura. The weather continues cold, though dancing was kept up for an hour in the evening. The cabin was much crowded at this station; and some of our party addicted to going early to bed, complained a little of the disturbance on board.

Saturday.--Morning cold. Reached Messrs. Keane & Orr's (native name Kulkyane), where we remained till early on Monday morning. The natives at this station were numerous, and some of them apparently intelligent, but in appearance disfigured, if that is possible, by the circles of white clay which they had drawn round their eyes and noses. This, we are informed, is symbolical of mourning for deceased relatives--perhaps the unfortunate children who are, it is said, so often slaughtered.

Monday.--Steamed on to wooding station, in a picturesque country with high banks.

At four a.m. on Tuesday, September 13th, the Captain reported a comet in sight, which, after considerable incredulity on behalf of some of our party, was at length acknowledged to be a most brilliant meteor. Euston Township (Nowong), so called after the Grafton family, we reached at ten a.m. It is a Government reserve, and seemed a fine clearing, though as yet the settlement is comprised in the Commissioner's house, an inn, some huts, and a black encampment. Mr. Cole, the Crown Commissioner, received nearly all our party with great politeness, showed the ladies over his quarters--a log house, not impervious to the weather, but otherwise comfortable, if not pretty, which, indeed, none of the stations are; he then produced some wine, eggs, and lastly a salad. Here we obtained a sight of some newspapers, the latest from Melbourne, of the 23rd of the previous month.

The ladies were invited to see two specimens of the "lowen" or "luanna," a bird resembling in some degree the pheasant of Europe, and also reckoned of delicious flavour.[14] The peculiarity of these birds is, that the hen does not hatch her own eggs, but buries them in layers of sand, whence, after a little time, the process is effected by heat. The Commissioner--whose district contains about 70,000 sheep, 15,000 or 16,000 head of cattle, and nearly 300 horses--complains of the impossibility of completing his establishment of white police, notwithstanding the liberal allowance of the Government to troopers, which amounts to 5_s._ 6_d._ daily, in addition to rations and quarters; he is, however, he tells us, to be joined by a European sergeant immediately.

From this point, Euston, there was, until lately, a post to Sydney and back, which, while it lasted, was conducted with rapidity; the floods, however, have been so troublesome, that it has been recently given up. The blacks here were numerous, and two-thirds of them, at least, disfigured with their mourning marks. Some of them were dressed in uniform as police troopers attached to the Commissioner. Mr. Cole, with a Mr. Morey, who has 7,000 sheep contiguous to the Government reserve (twenty-five square miles), came on board to dinner, when our commander's champagne flowed freely; they afterwards accompanied us up the river some miles. The comet was reported very brilliant about four a.m.

Wednesday.--We reached the station of a Mr. Ross at an early hour. Here some shearers, who were rather the worse of their early potations, were inclined to be troublesome. Captain Cadell turned one of them out of the fore cabin without ceremony; and, shortly after, three of these men, endeavouring to aggravate some of the crew whilst taking in fuel, and to prevent the natives from giving their assistance, received from them a well-merited chastisement, which, though to a looker-on it might appear unnecessarily severe, had yet a well-timed and useful result. Nothing but a rough and summary mode of proceeding would be effectual with such people, whose conduct might destroy the comfort of all decent classes of passengers. They were probably _ci-devant_ convicts, or, as they are here termed, "old lags." At this station, we heard that 7,500 store[15] sheep had been brought over from Bathurst (500 miles), for the convenience of shearing, and afterwards transshipping the wool clip to Adelaide. We took in a stock of wood lower down the river, and, after passing Mr. McCullum's station (Wella), where there are 13,000 sheep, pursued our onward course towards Swan Hill.

From the junction of the Murrumbidgee, or rather of the Logan or Wakool,[16] up which we steamed a short distance, the volume of the Murray diminishes, and its sinuosity increases; but the steamer made good progress on her way, anchoring about half-past twelve a.m., on Thursday morning, the 15th September, in mid-channel, with a strong tide running. Here we had lain perhaps an hour and a-half, when all on board were awakened by an awkward lurch of the _Lady Augusta_, which upset the cabin tables, and created considerable confusion in the dark. Some inquiries were made as to the cause of the unusual position of the steamer (for she did not right herself), but no steps were taken to ascertain the real cause of the accident, and all was attributed to the strength of the tide. Some, however, were not satisfied with this solution, or found sleeping on an inclined plane disagreeable; and, after the lapse of nearly half an hour, it was discovered that the _Lady Augusta_ had made considerable water, which, rushing to one side, had caused the "list" complained of. The pumps were then set to work, as also buckets, and the hold eventually cleared of water. It appeared that some valve connected with the engines had been left unclosed--whence the shipment of so much water. At dawn, we had been passed by a little steamer, called the _Mary Ann_, which indeed had been seen lying off-shore the previous night. We found her again at the station of a Mr. Phelps. She is an open boat, apparently about fifty feet in length, carrying two masts, and fitted with an engine, by her owner, a Mr. Randall, whose enterprising talent, and skill in navigating his little craft, are highly to be lauded. At this station we found an old "man-of-war's man," a Mr. Reynolds, who had been so long away from civilised pursuits, that he said he hardly knew a steamer by sight. He supplied us liberally with milk and butter. I understood him to say that he had been thirty-six years in the Colony. Mr. Phelps's brother is accounted a large sheep owner in this district, being the possessor of an extensive "run," and about 17,000 sheep.

Lest the term "run" should not be clearly intelligible to some non-Australian readers, it may be here observed, that it is an extensive tract of country devoted to sheep-breeding, and held on lease from the Government for a term of years. Its chief excellencies are, of course, pasturage and good water; moreover, it must, at least, be capable of carrying 4,000 sheep, or an equivalent number of cattle--extra £2 10_s._ per annum for every additional 1,000 sheep, or proportionate increase of cattle.

For this run, the owner takes out a licence of occupation, at a rental proportioned to the number of sheep or cattle which the district is calculated to support. The capabilities of the location are estimated by a Commissioner of Crown Lands, and a half-yearly assessment is also laid on all the live stock at the station--a halfpenny per head for sheep, three halfpence for cattle, and threepence for horses. Formerly, the holder had the option of purchasing, at any time, the entire run at twenty shillings an acre; but this law has now been altered and, as some think, amended, by the impossibility, under the present system, of the existence of a race of licensed settlers, or leaseholders, in perpetuity, who might have been likened to the Crown feudatories of the middle ages, and paid an annual quit-rent for their possessions. These landholders are termed in Australia, "squatters." In these runs, which sometimes equal in extent an English county, and usually about the centre or frontage, stands the homestead, a rude wooden building, with a garden, stores, offices, and adjacent stock or farm yards. A spacious grass paddock, and some smaller ones for tillage, all enclosed with a post and rail fence, with a large shed for shearing the sheep and storing the wool, are also necessary adjuncts of the head-quarters. The two great epochs of pastoral life are the lambing and shearing seasons; the latter duty having been performed annually by a distinct class of persons, who went about from station to station to be hired for this work. Since the gold discoveries, however, this duty has been in some degree performed, with considerable difficulty at times, by the settlers themselves. Independent of the head-quarters or head-stations on these runs, there are usually what are called "out-stations," with small flocks of from 500 to 1500 sheep, in charge of two shepherds and a hut-keeper; who, whilst the former tend the sheep, looks after the yards, cooks the victuals, and watches by night against the attacks of the "dingo," or wild dog--the most destructive of Australian vermin.

The cattle grazing is carried on generally in a different part of the run, by a stockman, who is provided with a hut-keeper. The chief requisite here is a firm seat on horseback, and great activity of body, as the cattle are much disposed to run wild, and are often with difficulty collected. Both cattle and sheep were annually slaughtered in great numbers, and boiled down for tallow, which was readily bought up, by foreign merchants, for the London market, and became an article of large export. The price of wool and mutton has, however, now put an end, or nearly so, to this custom. To improve the feed of a cattle or sheep run, recourse is often had to firing the country; and this practice, apparently singular in so dry a soil, is said to be effectual.

As a remarkable instance of the nature of Australian occupations, or the ups and downs of fortune, the list of shepherds given by a writer, in a certain district, is worthy of notice. They comprise "an apothecary, a lawyer's clerk, three sailors, a counting-house clerk, a tailor, a Jew, a Portuguese sailor, a Cingalese, a barman, a gentleman's son, a broken-down merchant, a former Lieutenant in the East India Company's Service, a gipsy, a black fiddler, a dancing master. Of these the gentleman's son, the Jew, and the barman made the best shepherds."[17]

This summary of sheep farming--the substance of which is taken from a series of very good papers upon Australia, relating chiefly to New South Wales--is also applicable, in most respects, to the banks of the Murray, and I therefore introduce it here.[18]

Leaving this digression, our first station yesterday (September 15) was that belonging to Mr. Hamilton. It appeared very populous. Towards evening the river became tortuous in the extreme; indeed, with the breadth the _Lady Augusta_ and _Eureka_ occupy upon the water (forty-two feet), steering the vessels, without a check, through the narrow curves and opposing branches, which continually met us at every point, was almost an impossibility. The weather, which had been lowering since morning, in the evening became perfectly tempestuous; and, amidst flashes of lightning, occasional peals of thunder, and sudden gusts of wind, little else was heard but the crashing of the opposing trees, or, in the deep tones of our commander, the often repeated words, "stand by, below;" "stop her;" "turn a-head, slow;" and at length the welcome order, "full speed." Thus, for some hours, did we advance, dimly lighted by an overcast moon; and the storm at length abating, without any other mishap than some slight damage to the _Augusta's_ funnel, and the destruction of part of the _Eureka's_ rails--thanks to Captain Cadell's perseverance--we were enabled to hold on till two a.m., about which time we made fast alongside the station of a Mr. Coghill.

To-day (Friday, September 16), steamed on, with some difficulty, through the endless sinuosities of the river, now narrowed to an average breadth of seventy or seventy-five yards, but still affording near four fathoms' depth of water. At some points, indeed, we were delayed a considerable time, from inability to stem the current in so contracted a space, without becoming entangled in the surrounding wood. Altogether, I am inclined to think that the passage of the river for steamers, such as that in which we now voyage, will be difficult above the Murrumbidgee, except during the flooded season, or about five months in the year. To improve the navigation, however, much might be done by the passage up the stream of a small boat (such, for instance, as the _Mary Ann_) provided with means to clear away the "snags" or sunken trees, to cut the overhanging branches, &c.

In course of time also, canals, were it only a few yards in length, might be formed for the purpose of connecting the stream by a more direct channel, instead of compelling ascending vessels to navigate the continued sinuosities of the river throughout its entire course.

Swan Hill, a green oasis rising amidst what is, apparently, a desert of reeds, is a valuable station, containing some excellent pasture. Indeed, from these very reeds, which are annually burnt, springs up a "second growth," affording admirable food for cattle; whilst the flats, at present flooded in all directions, are in summer perfectly dry. On the crest of the hill, 119 feet only above the sea, is now building a sort of lock-up, or wooden gaol. Lower down stands the inn, which appears comfortable, and a store, where the prices of goods and articles were denounced by some of our party as extravagant, even for the neighbourhood of the diggings.[19] I heard 2s. mentioned as the price of a wine-glass of brandy, and 1s. 6d. or 2s. a pound for flour; but do not vouch for the correctness of my information.

We arrived at Swan Hill about mid-day on the 17th September, after 112 hours' steaming from the Darling (a distance of about 600 miles), having left our consort, the _Eureka_, on the run of a Mr. Coghill, some miles behind, to commence loading wool for the return voyage. There being a police force here, consisting of six mounted troopers, and a Lieutenant and Clerk of the Court, his Excellency availed himself of it to forward his report to the Secretary of State, and copies of the document to the Governors of New South Wales and Victoria. We remained on this station during the whole of Sunday, hearing Divine Service performed in the verandah of the latter by a travelling ex-member of the Church of England, who read us our beautiful Liturgy in a blue Jersey shirt, and had the good sense or good taste (which, perhaps, are synonymous) not to weary his congregation with too long a sermon.

The _Mary Ann_ joined us on the Saturday evening, and both vessels remained stationary until Monday afternoon, September 19th, when the _Lady Augusta_ proceeded up the river, stopping about twelve miles from Swan Hill to take in some fuel. The country continued reedy and flooded; but the banks of the river were lined with gum trees. Our party, I should mention, has been diminished by one member, a Mr. Bright, who left us at Swan Hill to ride to Melbourne (210 miles), where he purposes taking passage to England.