Chapter II: Part 2

A few miles from Swan Hill, we observed several of the native turkey, or, more properly, the bustard; they are reckoned delicious eating, but are approached with difficulty on the open plains, where they love to feed. Birds are now more plentiful; and I should have said that three wild swans were seen near Swan Hill.

Tuesday, September 20.--After wooding for two or three hours where we had anchored the previous night, we steamed on as usual; the river widening and presenting beautiful reaches overhung with trees,[20] whilst the continued volume of this noble river, at so great a distance from the sea, has surprised all on board. This morning, we passed a connecting offshoot, or, as it is termed here, "backwater" of the Loddon, which flows into the Murray, near Swan Hill. We are now cramped a little on board for walking room, the deck being too high for many to promenade upon at once, as it causes the vessel to heel over from too much of what is termed "top-hamper;" nevertheless--the weather continuing delightful, even for Australia--and no European climate can surpass, I believe, the Australian mornings or evenings, nor Naples itself, at times, equal the wondrous tints of the sky--all get on, to use an expressive word, "swimmingly," though none seem to know as yet to what distance our exploration is to extend. On Tuesday evening, the 20th September, we reached the station of a Mr. Hogg, and made fast for the night. A Mr. Dickens, who presented a letter of introduction to His Excellency, joined us here. He was one of the _Melbourne_ steamer passengers, but appears to retain no ungrateful recollections of his detention at Lisbon.[21] The country through which we have passed is flat and reedy, but occasionally sprinkled with gum trees, and now and then offering glimpses of forest scenery of a more open kind than the dense forests which distinguish the lower part of the river.

Wednesday, September 21.--We took on board wood and played some games of quoits; leaving Mr. Hogg's station about noon. The river, as we advanced, passes through a flat but pleasing and open country, with occasional patches of reeds. "Snags" became rather frequent in this part, and doubtless, if the stream were low, would seem almost to interlace its bed; otherwise, the river is broad and fine. About dusk, we stopped for some wood at Gannewarra, the lands of a Mr. Campbell. This--about six tons weight--employed all hands yesterday; the Captain and Mr. Jamieson proceeding up to the house. The following morning, we found that Mr. Campbell had invited the whole party to his dwelling; and about ten o'clock, the arrival of eight horses and a double gig enabled every one to accept the invitation. To reach the settlement, distant about three miles from the river, we passed through a forest of fine open glades of very lofty timber, and partook of an excellent early dinner in Mr. Campbell's rude but commodious habitation. Then we had some music from the piano, which must have tended to enliven us after a month's imprisonment on board the steamer. Somewhat late, the boat of the _Lady Augusta_ arrived with three of the party, who had pulled up the winding creek on which the settlement stands. Nothing occurred in the way of adventure, but the destruction of the shafts of Mr. Campbell's gig; which, entrusted to a black, got smashed by the horse running into an adjacent pile of wood. Fortunately, no one was within. In the afternoon, we rode back, accompanied by Miss ----, Mrs. Campbell's pretty sister, who remained on board, as also Mr. Campbell. This gentleman is the possessor of 4,000 or 5,000 head of cattle and 10,000 sheep, and has been in the colony eleven years.

Friday morning (September 23rd) was distinguished by the fall of two majestic trees, each exceeding 110 feet in height, and which, hollowed by age, had been set on fire, and then partially sawn asunder. The effect was very grand, for, truly, "great was the fall thereof." About eleven, accompanied by Mr. and Mrs. Campbell and Miss C., we steamed a few miles up the river, returning to drop them near Gannewarra, where their horses, brought down by some natives, took them home.

Mr. Campbell seems to be one of the most flourishing settlers on the river; and complains only of his inability to grow vegetables--though his garden has been made on the banks of a fine creek.

His station--the farthest extent of the _Lady Augusta's_ exploration--may be estimated at about 1,400 miles from the sea-mouth of the Murray. Leaving Gannewarra, we proceeded down the river--the return homewards having been at length resolved. Our pace, going with the current, was rapid, but some malign influence appeared this day to beset the _Lady Augusta_. We had gone but a few miles when we encountered a huge tree, blocking up nearly the entire stream; this we broke through, by sheer force of steam, but not without almost sweeping the deck of the passengers, who with difficulty avoided the branches as they passed over the vessel. The after bulkhead was also stove in. Arriving at Mr. Hogg's station, one of the funnels was considerably damaged, and slight injury received by the upper deck. Leaving this station, we did not leave our ill luck behind us, for, rounding a moderately sharp turn, a few miles below this run, we managed, when about to "haul up" for the night, to run so violently in upon the land, that the steamer, instead of floating alongside, as intended, remained hard and fast, nor could all the efforts of the crew get her off. In the morning, the wood being taken out of her, she floated without any difficulty, much to the satisfaction of the crew, who, both officers and men, have had hard work in carrying in our wood, splitting it, &c. Now we are going down the stream, at the rate of ten or twelve knots an hour. This is very good steaming for a small vessel like the _Lady Augusta_; though Captain Cadell is not, I understand, as yet quite satisfied, and purposes, or expects, by means of a condenser and feather floats, to obtain three miles an hour greater speed. This would be a great advantage on a river so circuitous as the Murray; and, as a further improvement, if a disconnecting engine, by which one paddle would work forward and the other backward, were provided, boats of greater length, power, and tonnage, might be employed. Whilst upon this subject, I perhaps ought to mention, that our engineer (Mr. Napier) has declared that, for boats of shallow construction--such as the _Lady Augusta_--tubular boilers should be used, by which means a space of from six to eight feet only would be required, where, at present, thirty or more is entirely occupied.

On Monday (September 26), we left Tyn-Tyndyer,[22] the station of a Mr. Beveridge, who is the owner of 11,000 sheep, 2,000 or 3,000 head of cattle, and what he calls a "mob" of horses, or about 100. The only thing remarkable about his run, which was some fifty miles in extent, appeared to me to be his garden, the aspect of which, adorned with some willows, introduced on the river by himself, was particularly refreshing to our eyes, fatigued as they had been with the endless monotony of the sombre foliage of the gum tree. Shortly after leaving Tyn-Tyndyer, we rejoined the _Eureka_, which was lying very snugly in a pretty bend of the river, a few miles lower down, and adjacent to the run of a Mr. Coghill. The next morning, taking her in tow, the _Lady Augusta_ proceeded down the stream for the purpose of ascending the Wakool, there to take in 220 bales of wool; a process, by effecting which, instead of waiting on the Murray, much time would be saved.

The navigation towards the junction was most intricate, and so continued throughout nearly the whole day. All the _Eureka's_ starboard rails were carried away, and continued stoppages, whether owing to the current, the sharpness of the bends, or defective steering, detained us for some hours. However, if the improvement of the navigation of the river be seriously taken up by the three Governments, many of the obstacles now experienced will be removed. During the last week we have passed several points where a little labour, concentrated in cutting fresh channels, would cause a saving of many miles' distance, and, moreover, obviate the angles which at present it is so difficult to navigate, at least, with anything like speed.

The Wakool is a most navigable river,[23] not so broad, indeed, as the Murray, being scarcely ninety yards wide, but deep and without current, and singularly free from "snags," or overhanging branches.

We passed Turora, Messrs. Grierson's station, on the Tuesday evening, and the next morning the public house and ferry, kept by Mr. Talbot; the soundings gave four and a-half fathoms and "no bottom." Very shortly afterwards, Poon Boon, or Westmeath, the station of the Royal Australian Bank, appeared in sight; and here, awaiting our arrival we found the wool, consisting of 220 bales, averaging 200 lbs. the bale. This, the first fruit of the river, and the first cargo of the _Lady Augusta_, was received with all due ceremony, the first bale being hoisted up with one of the crew to the mast-head of the _Eureka_, where "three times three" was given in its honour. Some bottles of champagne, and "Success to the commerce of the Murray," followed in the cabin; and in the evening a dance, at the head station on shore, terminated the day.

The superintendent, or person in charge here, informs me that his drays, with the supplies for this year, have not yet returned; and that to transport his wool to Melbourne by that mode of conveyance would cost him £45 per ton. The arrival of the steamer has, however, to use his own expression, "quite set the settlers on their legs again;" and although the freight, £25 per ton, is as yet rather high, there is no doubt that it will soon fall, whilst the land-transport from the Goolwa to Port Elliot will be performed per tramway, at the moderate rate of sixpence per ton per mile.

The stock of sheep belonging to the stations of this Company,[24] recently amounting to 50,000, is now reduced by extensive sales to 12,000, but the number, so rapid is the increase, it is expected will again amount to that quantity in two or three years. The present value of sheep (for sale) is from fifteen to eighteen shillings; during the bad times of the colony it was as low as two shillings and sixpence.

After leaving Poon Boon, we regained the Murray without any difficulty, save the passage of one shallow bar, where extreme precautions were exercised successfully.

At Canally, one of the stations of Mr. Phelps, wool to the amount of forty-nine heavy bales was taken in; and leaving this on Friday, September 30th, we again steamed down the river, having left the two carpenters and the Chinaman near the mouth of the Wakool, there to prepare the frames of two more barges, as tenders, to be used for the further navigation of these rivers. This day, however, was doomed to be one of melancholy remembrance to all on board, for an accident, not less sad from its sudden occurrence than by its tragical issue, did then happen, in a manner most painful to all who witnessed it. About four o'clock, or rather later, whilst sitting in the cabin, I was disturbed by hearing an outcry, and tumults on the deck above; and running out, I discovered by the preparations for casting off the boat, then towing astern, that a man was overboard. Looking further astern, the steamer having now reversed her engines, I discovered what must have been the top of the unfortunate man's head floating about forty or fifty yards behind us, and distinctly saw his hands upraised, and as it were waving in a convulsive manner for help. This position he maintained for a minute or two, but the boat was not easily cast loose, and the steamer had drifted with the current, which here runs perhaps two and a-half knots per hour. Shortly afterwards I again looked, but nothing was visible, for the wretched man had sunk never again to rise; though one of those in the boat declared that they were so close to him that from the bow he might have been touched with an oar. It was, however, too late, and after waiting vainly for the chance of his reappearance, we were at length obliged to continue our course without even the satisfaction of discovering his body. The man's name, I afterwards learned, was William Crewse Teague, a native, it was supposed, of Cornwall, and he had been employed as a stoker on board. The cause of the accident, as far as I could ascertain, was the giving way of one of the gangway rails, against which the man must have leaned whilst drawing a bucket of water; the rail, which is usually fastened by a peg and chain, having fallen into the water with him.

On the first of October, we took in fifty-one bales of wool at Mr. Ross's (Meilman), and remained alongside this station until Monday morning, the 3rd, when we proceeded down the river, touching at Messrs. Grant's, who had some wool awaiting transport on the banks. The Captain's previous arrangements prevented, however, his taking these bales on the present trip. Leaving this station (Bombany), Messrs. Grant and their friends being on board, the _Eureka_ managed to tilt some of her load into the water, from whence it was rescued, not without considerable labour. It appears the two vessels had been kept on a level by two spars, one of which having been moved, the strain on the other became too great, and it snapped, thus destroying the equilibrium of the barge. In the evening, we reached Euston, the Commissioner's station, where we halted for the night; the little steamer _Mary Ann_, which passed us during our difficulties, being anchored a short distance ahead. It seems, from the owner's account, that she had reached Maiden's Punt, about 250 miles beyond Swan Hill, without a check. At Euston, the Crown Commissioner, Mr. Cole (styled by some of our party "King Cole") received us with his wonted urbanity; and some dancing was achieved in his quarters. The functions of this officer consist in superintendence of the lands belonging to the Crown, on which he is bound to prevent all trespass in the way of cutting timber or depasturing cattle. He is also authorized to prevent the intrusion of people on the lands of their neighbours; to estimate the capabilities of the land for grazing purposes; and he has allotted to him a certain force of police--white or native troopers--to assist him in his duties, which comprise those of a magistrate with extraordinary powers, together with a general supervision of an extensive district. The salary of these officers in New South Wales is £500 a year, and there are not less than fourteen of them.

Mr. Cole accompanies us to the Darling; which, after taking in 100 bales of wool the previous day, we reached on the evening of the 6th--having left McGrath's before dawn in the morning, and Mildura (Messrs. Jamieson's) about four p.m.

The weather, which yesterday was cold and boisterous, is now again "Australian," and I have no recollection of a finer morning in any climate than to-day. Personally, perhaps, as in some degree invalided for the last five years, I feel more the luxury of this matutinal freshness; having passed, I am told by my next neighbour, Mr. Grainger, who sleeps in the berth under me, a most uneasy night; which I can attribute only to the deleterious effects of the _tea_, of which, contrary to my usual abstinence, I last night imbibed rather more than one-third of a cup.[25] It is very annoying to be subjected thus to the caprices or the malicious propensities of cooks, stewards, or others whose duty it may be to infuse these our evening potations; and most unjust that the innocuous or even the independent members of society should be exposed to the chance of a nightmare or an apoplexy by such proceedings. Nor can the evil be without remedy; for, without coinciding with the Rev. Sydney Smith, "That a bishop must be burnt before railway accidents are prevented;" or agreeing with Mr. D'Israeli, "That an architect should be sacrificed to ensure a National Gallery worthy of a great nation;"[26] I must be pardoned for the suggestion, that society generally--and all are concerned in the suppression of such annoyances--might visit with a kind of moral _decimation_, all the perpetrators of these iniquities.

The country, as we approach South Australia, is now improving in appearance, as the waters having receded, the forest appears more open, and even the "Mallee scrub" is less monotonous than before. We learn, however, that this subsidence has not taken place on the upper part of the river, the Murray having risen some feet at Maiden's Punt, probably from the floods on the Campaspe and Goulburn, for as yet the Alpine snows have not contributed their quota to the stream. With respect to the "Mallee," which covers so large a portion of the vicinity of this river, it may not be uninteresting to mention that there is a root of a particular kind of this shrub well-known to the natives, which, being cut into strips and placed in a pannikin or other vessel, has the property of exuding water from within, which, slowly dripping out of the wood, is thus preserved for the thirsting traveller.

Friday, October 7th.--We reached the Darling last night, at eleven p.m., notwithstanding the cloudiness of the sky; and about one, despatches, papers, &c., came on board for His Excellency and some members of our party. The news does not seem of importance, the South Australian journals being too much occupied with our trip, and the English, especially the beautifully _Illustrated London News_, with the mimic war at Chobham.

This morning (Saturday), the steamer took in some tons of wood and nine bales of wool, which, besides some sheep skins and tallow, completes the cargo to 441 bales, of an average weight of 300lbs., and an aggregate value of £9,000 or £10,000, with which we trust her owners will for the present remain satisfied. We are now steering on for Mooruna, the station of the Crown Commissioner of the Albert District, where we are to leave Mr. Cole--having dropped the Messrs. Jamieson, with most hearty farewells, at the Darling junction. One of these gentleman, the Mr. Hugh Jamieson, who has accompanied us thus far on our expedition, has been successfully exerting himself in moving addresses to His Excellency and Captain Cadell, which, with Sir Henry Young's rejoinder, are as follows:--

"_Address presented by the Murray Settlers of New South Wales and
Victoria to Sir Henry Young, when approaching the boundaries of South
Australia, on his return to Adelaide, in the_ Lady Augusta, _steamer._

"To Sir Henry Edward Fox Young, Knight, Lieutenant-Governor of South
Australia, &c., &c., &c.xxx

"May it please your Excellency--

We, the undersigned, proprietors of stock in New South Wales and
Victoria, resident on the Murray and surrounding districts, hail with
satisfaction the present opportunity afforded us by the safe return to
this part of the Murray of the _Lady Augusta_ steamer from her
inauguration voyage from the Goolwa to beyond Swan Hill, and beg to
congratulate your Excellency on your safe return to the frontiers of
your own Province; and respectfully desire to convey to your
Excellency some record expressive of our opinion with reference to the
opening up of these extensive districts, by means of inland steam
navigation, throughout the interior of Australia.

"We deem it unnecessary, on this occasion, to enlarge on the
importance of this enterprise, the great public and varied interest
therein involved, and the very evident advantages to arise from it;
but would desire to convey to your Excellency our unanimous opinion,
and just appreciation, of the liberal and enlightened policy of the
Legislature of South Australia in encouraging so highly important an
undertaking; and, at the same time, we would desire to express to your
Excellency our acknowledgments, not only for the persevering exertions
and valuable support which the enterprise has all along received from
your Excellency, at the seat of your own Government, but also for the
favourable manner in which you have brought under the consideration of
the Home Government, the Governor-General in Sydney, and the
Lieutenant-Governor of Victoria, the importance of the early
establishment of steamers on the Murray, on a scale commensurate with
the requirements of so large a river.

"As the successful accomplishment, so far, of the first voyage of the
steamer _Lady Augusta_ permits us to look forward, with some
confidence for the future, to the easy transit of goods and produce,
to and from South Australia, by means of steam navigation, we may
here, perhaps not improperly, retrospectively allude to the
difficulties and tedious delays we have all, for so many years,
encountered in reaching a market for our produce; and, in doing so, we
are unwilling to forego the pleasure of assuring your Excellency that
we shall ever look back with satisfaction to the time when, in these
remote parts of the Colony, and surrounded by many discouraging
circumstances, we had, in the year 1850, the strongest proofs afforded
to us of the interest taken in the Murray and its navigation by
finding your Excellency undertake and accomplish, at considerable
personal exertion and inconvenience, a voyage of exploration, in an
open boat, from the junction of the Darling with the Murray to the
Goolwa.

"We would only, further, beg to express to your Excellency that we
recognize, with much satisfaction, the permanent honour, which in
after years, must attach to you, for having so successfully aided the
accomplishment of the Murray navigation; and we would offer you our
cordial expression of hope, that, whether you may be resident in this
or in other and more distant parts of the world, you may, for many
future years, learn, with equal interest, the permanently beneficial
results of the Murray navigation; convinced, as we are, that these
results will prove highly important, not only to the best interests of
your own Province, and to the Australian Provinces generally, but also
to England, and other parts of the world; affecting, as they most
indisputably will do, thousands of the population who may, in future
years, make choice of Australia as the land of their adoption.

D. Fletcher, J.P.
H. Jamieson, J.P.
J. Lecky Phelps, J.P.
Sylvester & Smith
Edward Lintott
James A. Liscombe
Joseph J. Phelps
N. Chadwick
James Hamilton
William Ross
John Grant
John Grant, jun.
Simon Grant
Edmund Morey, J.P.
Bushby Jamieson
Thomas McPherson
John McNichol
Crozier & Rutherford
Andrew Beveridge
Peter Beveridge
George Beveridge
Albion Gibbs
J. J. Keene
K. Nox
R. H. Jones
James Rutherford
M. McGrath
James McGrath
Thomas McGrath
Henry Williams
George B. Fletcher
James McLeod

"On board the _Lady Augusta_,
River Murray, near the junction of the Darling,
October 7, 1853."

_Reply of His Excellency Sir Henry Young to the foregoing Address._

"Gentlemen--I have the honour to acknowledge, and to thank you for,
the Address which you have presented to me.

"The steam navigation of the great River Murray and its
tributaries--of which this voyage has been the auspicious
commencement--is an object of such general and permanent importance,
that, had any exertions to promote its prosecution been awanting on my
part, I should have considered the omission a dereliction of my duty.

"It is a great gratification to me that you have appreciated the
utility of the enterprise, and have been enabled to witness its
accomplishment.

"My earnest hope and belief are, that it will realise for the future
all the great and permanent advantages which are so reasonably to be
anticipated.

"I feel highly honoured by the obliging terms in which you have
expressed yourselves in regard to myself personally, and

"I have the honour to be, Gentlemen,
"Your very obedient and faithful servant,
"H. E. F. Young.

"River Darling, October 7, 1853."

At the same time was addressed to Captain Cadell the following letter, from the same place:--

"We, the undersigned, proprietors of stock on the River Murray and its
tributaries, appreciating the very great benefits which cannot fail to
result from the introduction of a line of steamers for passengers and
produce, on the Murray, desire to congratulate you on the personal
distinction of being the first successfully to accomplish this
important work.

"Our earnest wishes and expectations are, that, however extended the
field of this enterprise may hereafter become, your share of the
benefits may at least bear due proportion to the energetic spirit
which has acquired for you the permanent honour of opening up the
trade and commerce of this great river, by means of steam
communication.

"Whilst we recognize with satisfaction the enterprising spirit you
have displayed in carrying out so successfully the establishment of
this important undertaking, in the midst of difficulties of no
ordinary description, consequent upon the vast and well-known changes
which have arisen from the gold discoveries throughout Australia, we
beg to assure you, that we feel it alike a duty and a pleasure, on the
present occasion, to take this the very earliest opportunity to
intimate to you, that a certain amount of money has been equally
subscribed by us, for the purpose of being applied in any manner most
agreeable to yourself, in the acquisition of some memorial of your
first steam voyage on the River Murray.

"You are aware of the extreme distances at which our respective
stations are situated, and the consequent difficulty of our waiting
upon you and ascertaining personally when and where it would be most
suitable to you for the presentation of the testimonial to take place.

"We shall, therefore, feel much indebted by your communicating your
wishes on this subject to the Hon. Secretary, at your earliest
convenience.

"Foregoing Signatures.xxx

"Francis Cadell, Esq., Commander, _Lady Augusta_."

Sunday, October 9.--The weather, rather oppressively warm during the day, is now overcast and threatens some continuance of rain. Having, however, fortified myself with Roscoe's admirable Memoir of Lorenzo di Medicis, I feel in some measure independent of clouds and sunshine. The books we have on board are numerous, and many of them excellent, but, after seven weeks, some novelty is refreshing. We passed Mooruna, the station of the Albert Commissioner, about 3 p.m., and left there some articles and stores for that official. It has not a pleasing aspect, being, even at this season, almost denuded of verdure, and, moreover, fiercely red. About dusk, we were hailed by a native from Messrs. Rutherford and Crozier's station, and accordingly "lay-to," taking Mr. Crozier on board. This detention, though at the time it appeared unnecessary, was of service to the Captain, as he was enabled to obtain, through Mr. Crozier and the natives of the station, the exact "whereabouts" of a sunken rock,[27] which lies nearly in mid-channel, and opposite to Rutherford's Ferry. During the night, heavy rain fell, which wetted us a little in the cabin; but has not, we trust, injured the cargo.

Saturday, October 8th.--The morning wet and cheerless, and so continued till we deposited Commissioner Cole at the station called Bob and Harry's, which is not far distant from Lake Victoria--a sheet of water of some extent, connected with the Murray by a stream called the Rufus. At night, we anchored under some high sand cliffs, of singular formation, near the boundary of South Australia--which province, it is presumed, we have now entered. On Monday morning early, we expect to be at Mr. Chapman's, remaining here all Sunday--which, to us, is a _dies non_. It now occurs to me, that I commenced these notes with a declaration and determination not to chronicle our daily proceedings on board, which, I had imagined, could not but prove "flat, stale, and unprofitable." As, however, I have infringed on this rule, it may, perhaps, be now excusable to continue in transgression, by giving the routine of our river life. _Pour commencer_, then, we--that is, the gentlemen of the party, who sleep in the main cabin, the sofas of which form two tiers of berths--rise about six, sip some coffee, and dress in the fore cabin.[28] At a little before nine, is breakfast, a _déjeûner à la fourchette_; about twelve, bread and cheese, with a glass of ale or wine; at four is dinner, a substantial and most abundant meal, of which, good curry is a predominating feature; at seven, comes tea, which does not appear to be so favourite a beverage as it deserves--partly, perhaps, for want of milk, which is only occasionally obtained; at nine, the beds are made up; and about eleven, most on board appear to sleep. These particulars will also answer, in most respects, for the ladies of our party, whose cabin (the after one) opens into the main saloon. The deck of the _Lady Augusta_ is now the only place for walking on board, but it serves well enough for a few at a time; as, however, the vessel must stop almost daily to take in wood, there is no want of opportunities for exercise--the real mainstay of health, I certainly believe, in every climate. On this subject, however, I feel compelled to say, that though I most willingly accompanied His Excellency--as in deference to his wishes I was bound to do--and although, I doubt not, the river voyage may eventually prove of service to my health, yet, had I been aware of some of the _dèsagrémens_ which I have since encountered, I might, perhaps, have been enabled to shorten my stay on board. "It is wrong to look a gift horse in the mouth;" and it would be ungenerous to find fault where no wrong has been intended; but though Captain Cadell's attention to all his guests has been as unremitting as his navigating energy, the courtesy of his officers (who, from the extent of our party, must have been somewhat incommoded) universal, and the disposition of the crew most obliging, yet have we all, I think, without exception, been found at times to complain of the effects, it is to be presumed, of our daily meals. I believe, myself, the ladies have been the greatest sufferers; but they have borne their trials with such endurance through this picnic voyage of more than seven weeks, that it may seem a bold assertion to admit it all.

Sunday.--During the whole of this day we have had continual showers, and the weather has been altogether cold, and most unlike Australia, particularly at this season, and on the Murray, where it is said, it never rains. Most of our party, however, managed to climb the cliffs under which we lay, and from whence an extensive and pleasing view of the river was obtained.

On Monday morning, early, we cast off, having taken in a small stock of wood, which was procured by the officers and crew cutting down the pines above us, and hurling them over the cliff. The blacks, brought by Mr. Mason from Wellington, then carried it on board, and afterwards sawed and split it asunder. These three natives, I may add, have proved particularly useful whilst on board.

About one we reached Mr. Chapman's (Paringa), conspicuous from afar by a tri-coloured flag with the words "_Cead mille failthea_" inscribed thereon--having passed this morning through a more open country, and if not more picturesque, certainly of a bolder character. This consisted of ranges of bold red cliffs, which, at a distance, bore some resemblance to the Avon or the Wye. On a nearer approach, however, their rugged aspect and scanty verdure--a few scrub bushes, interspersed with pines and gum trees--belied so soft a simile; and, but for their waterworn appearance, I would now rather liken them in feature to the wilder scenery of portions of the rivers in the west of Brittany. We wooded again in the evening, and then steamed on till one or two a.m., of Tuesday, the 11th of October, having been all rather disturbed during the night by an awful crash amongst the gum trees; this, however, appeared more formidable than it really was, and committed no other havoc but an addition to the honourable scars which the _Lady Augusta_--now "stove in" in various places--bears upon her sides. Now, we pursue our way through a more varied country, particularly about Talibka (Mr. Wigley's), to the "North-West Bend," which we hope to reach this evening; the weather remaining cool and cloudy, and far more like an English than an Australian climate. Our wooding place this evening bears quite a resemblance, the sandy soil excepted, to an English park; and sweeping round it, above the stream, is a fine range of bold cliffs.

Last night we managed to get the _Eureka_ aground, and she was not set afloat again without considerable exertion of steam force. The shadows cast by the trees, which overhang the water, render night navigation somewhat difficult, and though we pressed on with full power we did not succeed in reaching the Bend, as we anticipated. Meanwhile the stores are getting less, and yesterday we had nothing but champagne at dinner, instead of the accustomed layer of good draught port. This is something like the guardsman roughing it on his beefsteak and his bottle of port, but that, in this part of the world, there is never any fear of being without the staple commodity--good mutton.

The _Lady Augusta_ left her boat this morning at the wooding station,[29] and we were consequently unable to land at Mr. Walsh's, which appears one of the prettiest stations on the river. Mr. W., however, came on board in a nice little wherry, reminding one more of the Thames than the Murray, and left some newspapers, which have again put us in possession of the state of affairs in Adelaide. Our party, however, complain that they contain no news; though I have, myself, been much amused, I may say interested, by a journal of our trip up to Swan Hill, which appears in the _Register_; nor am I sorry to find therein, from the report of the Select Committee of the Legislative Council on the proposed Civil List, that my salary, amongst others, is likely to be doubled.

We reached Moorundee about two p.m., and found it almost surrounded by water. Mr. Scott was from home, and the fair mistress of the demesne engaged, I suppose, within; as, however, I did not myself join the party on shore, I must delay, till the ladies return, my inquiries after Mrs. Scott and the news of the Murray.

We left Mr. Scott's about five p.m., and steamed on all night, the weather still rather cold. About sunrise, I found the steamer had entered the magnificent valley below the Reedy Creek, comprising Mr. Baker's "run"--a tract of great extent, named, I believe, Wall--and where, in point of scenery, the character of that river becomes wholly changed. Here, the Murray, leaving the confined channel of forest, which for so many hundred miles has enclosed its course, issues into a wide vale, terminating in an extended basin, which though much encumbered with reeds, yet in the contour of its outlines, and the diversified variety of its wooded or rocky slopes, far surpasses any other portion of the river we had as yet seen. The volume, too, of the stream is here very considerable, its breadth being nearly 350 yards; whilst sailing majestically on its surface we descry numerous black swans in close and amicable contiguity with flocks of unsightly pelicans. Continuing to pass through a country of this kind, we soon leave behind us the granite formation, with the huge "boulders" of rock which mark its character; and after meeting an island, in mid-stream, again enter upon an Arcadian country, which, undulating in small rounded hills, dotted with trees of moderate height, bears some resemblance to the shores of Greece. Strange to say, however, as the land appears good, even if occasionally rocky, there is scarcely a habitation to be seen; though here, one would say, is quite the scene to realize the poet's dream, the

"Speluncæ vivique lacus, ac frigida tempe,
Mugitusque boûm, mollesque sub arbore somni."

About twenty-four measured miles (according to Mr. Mason) from Wellington, in the vicinity of the granite masses, visible from the deck, is a large rock, at present under water, but visible when the river is low. The next object I find worthy of notice is a "mob" of sixty or seventy horses, seemingly lost in wonder at the smoking and noise-making intruder upon their wonted solitude. After a time they lose their fears, and, fascinated as it were with the novel sight and sound, follow us in wild confusion along the rugged shores.

Thursday, October 13th, quarter to one p.m.--We are now at Wellington, where, amongst the spectators on the sandy banks, I observe His Excellency's police-orderly, who, coming on board, informs us that the horses are here. Sir Henry Young having, however, determined to terminate his voyage only at the completion of the enterprise, by the arrival of the steamer with her first cargo, the Golden Fleece,[30] at her starting point, the Goolwa, the horses are ordered to that point. Being, however, myself, desirous of returning to Adelaide at once, and his Excellency spontaneously giving me the option of so doing, I here determine to bid adieu to the river, and place myself with the least possible delay on one of the horses which the trooper brought from Adelaide some days ago.

Here then, I leave the Murray! and I do so in the firm belief that, whether it is to become in the future--as it has been, perhaps prophetically, designated--the "Australian Nile;" or whether it is to be the connecting link and general highway of the Australian capitals, existing and to be; this river is of incalculable advantage to the whole of Australasia, and its steam navigation, thus far successfully accomplished, an event worthy of record and narration by far abler pens than mine.

After a glance at Captain Cadell's canvas boat, I left Wellington a little after two p.m. on the 13th, mounted on a horse hired by Mr. Grainger, and by no means remarkable for speed. The excellent natural road runs for some miles over fine plains covered with wild flowers, and affording, I should imagine, rich pasturage, with some lakes adjacent. Thence you arrive at a tract of dreary and sandy scrub, rendered still more disagreeable by a road which is quite a reflection upon a civilized district, and from the number of stumps, which like "_trous de loup_" project from it, is really a most dangerous thoroughfare. At about eighteen or twenty miles from Wellington, is Langhorne's Creek, a settlement, near which I was shown the finest wheat in the Colony, and where there is a tolerable inn, with moderate charges and prompt attendance. Leaving this, the road--one place excepted, a most superior natural one, passes through a fine open forest country, fed over by abundant cattle, whose condition testifies to the quality of their food. Strathalbyn is then reached; it is a most flourishing settlement, and boasts a good inn; in the vicinity are some mines, worked for seven years, and shortly to be turned to more profit by the introduction of expensive machinery, which, possibly may be transported thither _via_ Wellington and the Murray, the approach from Adelaide, being, I am told, scarcely passable for heavily loaded drays. I arrived at Strathalbyn a little after six! and about nine, a further detachment of our party, consisting of Messrs. Davenport, Andrews, and Allen, came in, having left Wellington just after me in a sort of dog-cart. The following morning between seven and eight, I left for Adelaide; the trooper, with his Excellency's horses, proceeding onward to the Goolwa, distant about twenty miles. I found the country from Strathalbyn to the capital exceedingly beautiful, combining, indeed, every variety of forest scenery, water alone excepted. Its aspect is Devonian; but between Strathalbyn and Macclesfield is encountered a conglomerate of hills, heaped together in such wild and mountainous confusion, that to construct a highway might have puzzled General Wade himself. It must, however, at some time or other be done, for at present the road is execrable; and when the land is so fine, and the settlements between Adelaide and the Murray so important, it is perhaps bad policy, not to say almost an injustice, to leave the inhabitants without good means of communication. Some miles, however, beyond the Echunga diggings--a tract of gravelly waste, honeycombed as it were with pits, there is now constructing a new line of road, passing Crafer's (ten miles from Adelaide), which, though cut through a difficult country, and not apparently formed in strict accordance with "Henry Law," will, doubtless, be made highly available to the interests of the settlers of Mount Barker, Strathalbyn, &c.

About Glen Osmond, for a distance of some miles, the views are splendid, comprising the whole of the Adelaide plains, and a vast and magnificent sea-view extending completely across the Gulf of St. Vincent. The town itself lies spread out below the hills as upon a map; but perhaps from the want of spires or lofty buildings, the City of Adelaide is not, from a distance, very imposing in appearance. Descending Glen Osmond, three or four miles of hard, if not good, road, brings the traveller to the town, which--rather tired, I confess--I reached about half-past four p.m.; my horse being equally knocked up with myself, though the distance from Strathalbyn is not more than thirty-eight miles.

Sir Henry Young left the steamer the same evening (Friday, October 14), at the Goolwa, after a smooth passage across the Lake, and took up his quarters for the night at Port Elliot. The next day, accompanied by Mr. Grainger, His Excellency rode into Adelaide, a distance of about fifty-eight miles.

By way of postscript to my journal, I append a letter from Mr. Randell, the enterprising owner of the little _Mary Ann_.

Adelaide, October 21, 1853.
A. KINLOCH.
Gumeracka Mill, October 17, 1853.

Sir,--In answer to yours respecting the character of the River Murray,
above Swan Hill, I beg leave to state, that for some distance above
the Point the _Lady Augusta_ reached (Campbell's), the flats by the
river side improve in quality, and are more extensive. I observed many
which were not flooded, which looked beautifully green and thick with
herbage as far as the eye could reach. Many of the flats, as usual,
were entirely covered with water; and even those that I before spoke
of are very low, being only a few inches above the level of the river.
For the last three days before reaching Maiden's Punt (the highest
point we attained), the river begins to narrow, and to be particularly
sinuous, though not so incommoded with fallen trees or overhanging
branches as many parts we had passed, both above and below Swan Hill.
The banks begin to rise rather suddenly, and are clothed in many
places with thick jungles of the mimosa or wattle; though of a
different kind from any in the Adelaide district. I am told the kind
is plenty at Rivoli Bay, also in Van Dieman's Land. The bark is as
good for its tanning properties as the Adelaide wattle. Gum and box
trees abound as below. The depth of the river at Maiden's Punt we
found to be thirty feet, and forty to fifty yards broad; the river
rose two feet while we were there, and was still rising when we left.
I consider Maiden's Punt to be a much more important place than Swan
Hill, from the fact of its being much nearer all the diggings than
that place (fifty-five miles from Bendigo, forty from Goulburn, and
100 miles from the Ovens), and from its being on the high road from
Melbourne to the Murrumbidgee, Edwards, and indeed all the country
northward. Maiden's Punt is situated one and a-half miles from the
junction of the Goulburn; and, from information I received, I consider
that river navigable for small boats, like ours, within twelve miles
of the Goulburn diggings.

I was informed, by Mr. Maiden, the proprietor of the punt and inn,
bearing his name, that some short distance above his place, at the
junction of the Edwards and Wakool--or rather where these rivers leave
the Murray--that, at flood time, the channel of the river is lost
among large reedy lakes, and that its course could not be found
without native assistance--that the country is quite destitute of
trees for a considerable distance. After leaving this part, the timber
becomes plenty again, and continues so; the banks keep high, and
continue to improve in quality; the river becoming more sinuous still,
and the current much stronger. I do not think I have anything more of
importance to mention, but should anything strike you, on which I
could render you any information, I shall be most happy to do so.

I remain, dear Sir,
Yours respectfully,
WILLm. RICH. RANDELL.

Arthur Kinloch, Esq., Clerk Executive Council.

APPENDIX.

Enumeration of the quantity of sheep to be shorn in the present year (1853), upon the Rivers Murray and Lachlan, as far as Swan Hill, in the Provinces of South Australia, Victoria, and New South Wales.

Owners. Sheep.

Mr. Pyke 20,000
Westmeath 40,000
Messrs. Sylvester & Smith 15,000
Mr. Lintott 6,000
Grierson 3,000
Messrs. Phelps & Connolly 12,000
Mr. Beveridge 10,000
Hamilton 5,000
McCallum 13,000
Grant 6,000
Ross 7,000
Morey 7,000
Gibbs 5,000
McPherson 6,000
Keane 16,000
McGrath 10,000
Jamieson 10,000
Messrs. Crozier & Rutherford 13,000
Mr. Paterson 7,000
Bagot 5,000
Chambers 6,000
Mr. Walker 6,000
Coomar 5,000
Hart 6,000
Walsh 6,000
Haywood 3,000
Scoott 4,000
Fletcher 12,000
Scott 7,000
McLennan 7,000
McLean 6,000
McFarlane 4,000
Cameron 4,000

THE LACHLAN.

Mr. Peters 10,000
Messrs. Phelps & Co 20,000
Mr. Wentworth 50,000
Laing 15,000
Firebrace 6,000
Messrs. Firebrace and Brown 10,000
Mr. Nyne 40,000
Total number of sheep 443,000

To this number may be added an unestimated amount of sheep upon the Darling River, amounting certainly, to 17,000; which at a very low calculation will give 460,000 sheep; yielding a supply of wool--at 2 lbs. per sheep, and an average of 250 lbs. weight per bale--of 3,680 bales; or, at a rough estimate of £20 per bale, £73,600; or, at the not unusual yield of 2¼ lbs. per sheep, £82,080.

This estimate extends no further than Swan Hill, about 280,000
1,300 miles from the sea. To give a correct idea of
the probable amount of wool to be derived from Swan
Hill and north of the Murray, onwards, is not easy,
but including the runs to Albury and Gundegai, and
from thence again to near the junction of the
Lachlan, it may be estimated at
Again, on the north bank of the Murrumbidgee there may be 90,000
set down twenty stations, depasturing each 4,500
sheep, or
In Victoria, and on the south side of the Murray, from 220,000
Swan Hill to Albury, not embracing the stations at
the Campaspe, Goulburn, or Ovens, excepting those at
their respective junctions
Total 590,000[31]

In this calculation, out of 124 stations, seventy only have been put down as cattle stations, or unlikely to send their wool to Adelaide.

A third estimate of produce likely to go to the Adelaide market, and taking Swan Hill as a depôt, would bring in a very large quantity of wool, _via_ Lake Lalbert to Swan Hill.

The stations producing this wool are situated on the Rivers Loddon, Avoca, Avon, Richardson, and the Wimmeira country, towards Lake Hindmarsh; and a good road, with a little trouble, might be made available to Lake Lalbert, which is distant only twenty-five miles from Swan Hill.

From the above enumeration, it is evident that the opening of the Murray navigation by steam cannot be otherwise than most advantageous to the interests of the settlers.

In previous years they were necessitated to forward their wool by dray to Melbourne, at a cost of £40 or £45 per ton. In many cases these drays, instead of bringing back the annual supplies of provisions, &c., have been detained, broken down, or delayed by the loss of bullocks, or other difficulties. The settlers are now to pay £20 or at most £25 per ton for the same purposes, and even this freight will gradually come down. In a word, as has been before observed, "the steamer has quite set the squatters on their legs again," many of them having actually resolved, in consequence of the difficulties attending labour and transport, to abandon their runs.

It may, at the same time, be mentioned that, in all probability, the steamer's profit returns will be highly remunerative, which, indeed, would be requisite, as the daily expenses during our stay have been estimated at £30.

SUPPLEMENT.

Referring to the remarks which, at the opening of this Journal, have been directed to the circumstance of the navigation of the Murray having been left so long unserviceable, in spite of the early exploration of the river, I am gratified to find myself supported in my conclusions by the high authority of the Lieutenant-Governor of the Province, whose opinions, extracted from a letter to a Mr. Hull, a gentleman at that time interested in forming a company to purchase land in the vicinity of the River Murray, are thus declared:

Writing from Government House, June 29, 1852, Sir Henry Young observes:--

"That this extensive navigability of the River Murray should have
remained so long unserviceable to the Continent of Australia, and
especially to South Australia, within whose territory flow so many
hundred miles of its course to its final exit on the Southern Ocean,
requires some explanation to persons ignorant, perhaps, of the first
and present condition of this infant Colony; and figuring only to
their own imagination how the labour, wealth, art, science, and
enterprise, teeming in Great Britain, would, without loss of time,
have been engaged in improving this gigantic 'water privilege.' The
memorable and important discovery of the River Murray by Sturt, and
the arduous and courageous exploration of it, which his enterprise
first carried to the ocean, and his fortitude retraced, despite the
uncertainty of ever safely returning through a wilderness peopled with
unknown tribes, no doubt gave a powerful incitement to the subsequent
colonization of South Australia.

"In the early days, however, of the plantation of this Colony, the
impracticability of the sea-mouth of the River Murray--its shifting
and narrow channel--its fearful surf and heavy rollers--its
unmitigated exposure to the swell of the Great Southern Ocean--the
disappointments and fatal accidents which attended all attempts, save
one, to enter it from the sea--the ignorance then felt of the power
and disposition of the aborigines on its banks--the supposed
insufficient depth of water through Lake Alexandrina--the absence in
those days of steamers of light draught of water, adapted to the
navigation of rivers--the then scanty number of Colonists, who found
for their immediate purposes a more than sufficient extent of
agricultural and grazing land adjacent to Port Adelaide, Gulf St.
Vincent; all these causes sufficed to render the solitary instance of
the success of Captain Pullen, in 1841 (in entering the river from the
sea, in a little cutter of thirty tons, which has never made its exit
again), unproductive of further efforts in South Australia at that
time, to penetrate the interior of New Holland from the sea by the
navigation of the Murray. Nor was this great object, whilst left
unachieved for all practical purposes by enterprise from hence, likely
to engage the attention of the less-interested Colonists of New South
Wales. Indeed, the squatters on the Australian Continent--those useful
pioneers of colonization--were otherwise profitably employed. The
occupation of new country, which led to the settlement of Port
Phillip, in 1837, and of Twofold Bay, in 1839, had been carried, in
1840, 300 miles to the north, beyond and behind Moreton Bay--whilst to
the south and west, sheep and cattle stations extended beyond Port
Phillip to the very confines of South Australia; thus, colonization
and the attendant investment of commercial speculation were chiefly
directed to these outlets to the sea, alongside the eastern side of
the ridge of mountains parallel to the Pacific, between the 26° and
32° of latitude.