Chapter X: Preface (9)

When we returned to our camp, the deaans all assembled at deaan Crindo’s tent, who took notice of each individual man according to his merit, returning them thanks for their courage and conduct. He next made inquiry what men were lost on our side, and found no more than sixteen killed, and thirteen wounded. After that he sent out to number the dead bodies of the enemy, and found the total amounted to one hundred and seventy-five; among whom were sixteen persons of distinction; two of Woozington’s younger sons, Metorolahatch and Rer Fungenzer; his nephews, Ry-Opheck and Rer Chula; the names of the rest I never heard. Deaan Crindo gave orders that the bodies of these sixteen great men should be cut to pieces and scattered about the field, that their friends might not bury them. Two or three days afterwards we marched farther into Merfaughla, plundering and spoiling all their plantations.

As these people are more addicted to smoke jermaughla than any others, it will be proper to give a description of it here. It is a plant that grows about five feet high, and bears a small long leaf with a cod, which contains about a dozen seeds like hempseed. These leaves and seeds are mingled together, and laid in the sun for three or four days successively, till they are very dry, and so prepared, are fit to be smoked. Their pipes are made of reeds, or rather small canes. Sometimes they make use of a very long shell, which answers the end proposed. The quality of it is such that it makes them drunk; their eyes look red and fiery, and their looks fierce and savage. It is easy to know a man who smokes jermaughla; whilst the effects last, they are more vigorous and resolute, acting as it were like madmen. Those who are too much addicted to it are good for nothing but during the time they are intoxicated with it. My curiosity led me once to smoke a little myself; but it made my head so giddy, that I was drunk, as it were, for three days together, and so sick that I never meddled more with it.

Our spies were two days before they could discover any cattle. At length, however, they informed us they had heard some bellow, whereupon a thousand men were detached to fetch them. They were gone a whole week; they returned, however, with above two thousand beeves, and two hundred and fifty captives, women and children. This great prize made them fond of a second expedition; so, upon a consultation, a new camp was formed, and fortified in the same manner as before; in which deaan Crindo remained with four thousand men, whilst two thousand went out to plunder; and on their return two thousand more were to go.

Deaan Afferrer, deaan Sambo, Rer Mimebolambo, and Rer Befaugher, went out with two thousand men. We had three or four for our guides who were perfectly well acquainted with the country, and knew where the cattle were usually fed. We were two days before we came to any of their tracks, and then they were driven off, and, as appeared by their marks, quite different ways. So our army divided, deaan Sambo and Rer Befaugher went northward, and we south-west. We marched in the tracks all day and all the next night, as it was moonshine. We found ourselves in the morning near the sea, where they had driven the beasts to the margin of the water, that the ebbing and flowing and the wash of the sea might efface their footsteps on the sands; as indeed it did in a great measure: but we continued our march all day, till we found out where they turned off towards the woods. The next morning our spies came in, and informed us, that they heard a cow bellow. We soon came to the plain, where we found a hundred at least, but these were not sufficient; and therefore, narrowly observing their footsteps, we traced them farther, and found eight or nine hundred more. Here were besides two or three hundred sheep, which we killed, the best of them we dressed, and left the others behind us. However, we were in great want of water, for we had none for nearly two days. At length one of our scouts discovered a pond, where the cattle used to drink, and this, though hot and foul, we eagerly drank, as we could get no better. Till this time we saw no enemies, though we expected them, for we could see the cow-herds fly from their cattle, in order, no doubt, to alarm their masters. And as some of us were taking up this water, as clean as we could, in our calabashes, and whilst one in particular was stooping down to wash his lamber, a volley of shot was fired amongst us before we perceived any body. We looked up and saw about eight or ten men, who ran back into the wood, which extended along on the other side of the water, within three or fourscore yards. We fired at them, but they vanished out of sight. None of us were hurt, but the man who was washing his lamber; he received a shot in his fundament, of which he instantly expired.

Though I had been superstitiously addicted to observe certain fixed characters, or hieroglyphics, when they occurred to me in dreams, which was indeed but seldom, and used to find they foretold some things to me; yet I could not but observe a remarkable instance which we had here of relying on dreams, and I did not fail taking notice of it to deaan Afferrer, and thereupon to turn their superstitious devotions to their owleys into ridicule. For seeing me come in a hurry, and hearing guns go off, he asked, “What news?” “Nothing,” said I, “but a man was killed by the order of his gods.” “How!” says the deaan, “by the order of his gods? I do not understand you.” “Why,” says I, “a man prayed to his owley last night, and when he lay down, bid it not fail to come when he was asleep. The demon which attends his owley, according to his desire, came, and told him in a dream, or, which is the same thing, he dreamed he told him, that he must wash his lamber the next morning. He went along with us in obedience to this divine vision, to the watering place, though he had no other business there; and as he stooped to wash his lamber, was killed by a random shot, which he received in his posteriors from some of our fugitive enemies, who fired, ran away, and hurt nobody else.” I was under no apprehensions of deaan Afferrer’s anger on this piece of raillery, for persecution on account of difference in religion is not thought of there.

I remember one instance, whilst I lived with deaan Mevarrow, of a piece of bigotry more blind and senseless, if possible, than this. A young man had an owley, the demon of which was called Ry-Leffu. He made his addresses one night to him, and Ry-Leffu in a dream told him, that his brother must shoot at him. Early in the morning he took above an hour’s walk to his brother, told his dream, and desired him to perform the order of Ry-Leffu. His brother endeavoured to dissuade him from it, but the other insisted it must be done, or worse would ensue. “Well then,” said he, “I will shoot near you, but take care to miss you.” “No,” said the bigoted idiot, “it must be executed according to order, without the least prevarication; for I am fully persuaded that the demon will defend me from all harm.” At length he prevails on his brother, who loads his piece, and stands about thirty yards distant, and fires at his lower parts; but notwithstanding all his precaution he broke a leg; and then, blaming himself for his credulity, and being so easily overruled in an action he no ways approved of, ran with tears in his eyes to the assistance of the wounded bigot. In short, with the usual means, together with some of the fat of a sacrifice, laid on the owley of Ry-Leffu, the wound was healed, but he never recovered the free use of that leg.

We drove our cattle to the seaside, the same way we came, by the verge of the water, and went round the bay called St. John’s. I took particular notice of it; there is a ridge of rocks which seemed to extend quite across it, so as to leave no entrance; but were there a channel wide enough for ships to sail in, it would be a very commodious harbour, the waters being smooth within. Not far from hence, as I have heard, on the coast of Merfaughla, a French ship was cast away about two or three years before ours, and the whole crew destroyed; but the reason of their inhuman murder, or the particular circumstances of it, I could never learn. They have no canoes, either here or in Anterndroea, for which reason the natives can have no commerce with ships. For they are very treacherous to white men of any in the island. Whether their little acquaintance with Europeans gives them a dread of them, I cannot say; but I am sensible they imagine that white men are extremely addicted to fighting, and not so tender-hearted as themselves. This received notion may be a great motive to their destroying them on very trivial provocations; for they are always jealous that the white men have some cruel designs upon them. So that they are ever on their guard, dreading the audacity and superior skill which the Europeans have over them in point of war.

As to their mercy. In such places where they have subdued them, as the French did in Antenosa, they made them all slaves, inverted the whole order of their government; and most of them being illiterate seamen, who took upon them to rule, they showed no regard, either to morality, civility, or indeed common decency; made no distinction of persons, confounded all order, and treated every black as if he were a brute; and so much inferior to themselves, as not to have the least right or title, in their opinions, to the common privileges of human creatures. So that to kill one of them was no more than killing a dog, or any other noxious animal whatsoever. I do not make this as a general reflection on the French only, though if credit were to be given to half that the natives say, they were guilty of the most scandalous and execrable actions. Our own countrymen (too much addicted to their follies and vices) are not exempt from the just cause of this scandal upon white men; for the conduct of our British pirates, and others too, who are not willing to be thought inhuman, has been barbarous to the last degree. And in the countries of Anterndroea and Merfaughla, where no stories are told but what are very strange; and as they cannot distinguish by experience, that wicked men are the product of every land; and having seen no good ones here, every white man is looked upon by them as much a monster as a cannibal is by us.

We returned to our camp with our booty four days before Rer Befaugher, who not only got a good prize of cattle, but of captives likewise: which they discovered by the observance of a smoke. Deaan Crindo was in pain to be at home, lest deaan Woozington should go into his country and plunder it; but Rer Mundrosser and deaan Mussecorro would take their turn to see what they could find, and return with slaves as well as cattle. We had no enemy all this time come near us; for deaan Trongha stayed in the camp till we returned. I told deaan Afferrer I would go and pay deaan Sambo a visit as before, on purpose to conceal my visit to the other. He treated me with the same good manners as at first; but whilst we were in discourse, one of deaan Afferrer’s slaves came in and told me his master desired to speak with me. I durst not speak privately to deaan Trongha before him, nor would I stay, as he would have had me; but went directly with the man, being apprehensive of some ill treatment. When I came, he was in a terrible passion, charging me with being deceitful; and asking me, if I intended to go away with them? He would take care, however, that I should not go out of Anterndroea. I might go any where among his own countrymen; but he would not part with me. I perceived he was determined to be my master, though he was a much better than deaan Mevarrow; for he never offered to strike, much less to kill me. It was fourteen days before Rer Mundrosser returned; he brought, likewise, several slaves as well as cattle. As soon as the cattle were divided, which was the next day, the army marched back into Anterndroea; for deaan Crindo would not consent that the Feraignharians should go home, till they had accompanied him into his own country, and till he was out of danger. Our habitation on Yong-gorvo hills lay in the way. Deaan Trongha, with his brother and cousin, came the night before we parted, to take their leave of deaan Afferrer; and after some general discourse, he said if you will part with your white man, I will give you three slaves for him. Though this was a handsome price, yet my master, for so I must call him, made answer, I will not take three times three for him. So no more was said, and deaan Trongha went his way. The next morning before they marched, I had the opportunity of seeing one of the Feraignher men; whereupon I desired him to assure his general that I would be with them in three or four days at farthest; for I was determined to run away, and follow their tracks at all adventures. At present, indeed, I was prevented; because as they were jealous of me, two men were ordered never to let me go out of their sight, either by night or day, till we got home. And for two months afterwards, I was never suffered to go any where without somebody with me.

Before I take my farewell of Anterndroea, my readers may justly expect an account of such things as I thought most worthy of observance, and which have not hitherto been described; and which, indeed, are but few, considering the great variety of things, which a more curious person than myself would have employed himself in inquiring into. But when they consider how young I was when I first came here, how I passed the prime of my years in slavery among these savages, and the little or no hopes I had of ever making my escape; it will not, I presume, be expected, that, at this time, I should have known what was worth a virtuoso’s regard. I shall not, however, supply these deficiencies of mine, as many travellers frequently do, with inventions of my own. I could not help knowing such things as were of daily service, and in common with other places; such as bonanas, plantanes, monkies, turtle, and a hundred other things of the like nature; of which it would be impertinent to give a particular detail.

There is no good thing to be met with, either on the trees, or in the earth, that lie within three or four miles of the sea; nothing but short prickly wood, that bears no eatable fruit. In the country there is great variety; among which is a currant that grows on a tree, not a bush, as in Europe, and is very pleasant. Here is a very large tree likewise that bears a plumb; which is black when ripe, and as big as a cherry, with little stones like those of grapes. There are thorns too on the tree about two inches long. Here is a fruit like a sloe, which grows also on a prickly bush, but is very sweet. Another fruit grows on the most stately trees, that are speckled like a sparrow’s egg, and in the same shape, which is full of seeds, and very juicy. It is looked upon as an infallible cure for fluxes; the leaf of it is like that of a pear-tree. Here is a tree, the leaves and tender sprigs whereof will sting like nettles. The root of this is of great service when water is scarce, which it often is in many parts of this country; and as this root is spongy, it retains abundance of juice. We beat it in a wooden mortar (as we beat our Guinea corn) and express the liquor. They make ropes of the bark of this tree. Here is wood in plenty fit for building; as also some cedar and ebony, but none proper to make ship masts of. The plains are well covered with divers kinds of grass, and of various colours; which grow much taller than any in England. They never cut any down for hay, for before the old is dead, there is new springing up under it; but the old grass is commonly set on fire. Here is also some tobacco, which they smoke in reeds; or shells, as they do the jermaughla.

When I was in deaan Murnanzack’s country, I frequently went fishing; but they have no canoes, as I hinted before, so we only go upon the rocks and fish with hooks and lines, and not with nets. Night is the best time, when it is low water. Then we carry lights with us, and take the fish out of deep little holes (as the negroes say) fast asleep. Here are abundance of lobsters and crawfish, which never run away at sight of the lights. We have also a sharp pike made for no other purpose than to strike fish. Here are eels and the sword-fish, and some such other fish as are common to countries in the same climate: but many of a species I never saw elsewhere. Here is one fish as round as a turnip, and full of prickles; which, I suppose, may be called the sea hedgehog, but in their language it is called sorer-reake. Here is likewise great plenty of fine turtle.

I never knew the country infested by any beasts of prey, such as tigers, lions, &c., the wild foxes, wild boars, and wild dogs are the worst we have in Anterndroea. Here is a creature of the species and form of the serpent; which is very large. One of which I killed, by tearing its huge jaws asunder with my hands; it was no way venomous, nor did I ever know of a serpent which killed or hurt any man by its venom. Several of them have been bitten by them, and no worse hurt has accrued, than is customary from the bite of any beast.

While I was in Yong-gorvo, our employment as well as diversion was principally hunting wild cattle; and here I observed the people call these cattle, Hattoy’s cattle, or Anomebay Rer Hattoy. The tradition they have of their original, is, that they belonged to a great man named Hattoy; and he being very avaricious would kill none of them, but let them multiply and run about wherever they would. He lived in the desert, but his family and people, after his decease, lived with a king of an inland dominion, called Untomaroche, and left most of their cattle behind them. Others say, that Rer Hattoy and most of his people were killed; and that the other cattle being better approved of, his were neglected, and strolling about in the forests, they multiplied without interruption. But this no way accounts for the manner in which they came into the island. This Hattoy, as all allow, was a native; so that I am apt to believe these were the original cattle of the country, and the tame beeves were imported; for there are the same cattle with humps on their backs, on the coast of Natal, and Dillagoe in Africa. These were preferred to the others, and bred up whilst the Hattoy’s were neglected. And what confirms me in this notion is, here are two sorts of people, as if they were two distinct species of mankind; of which I shall have occasion to give a full account in a more proper place.

When deaan Afferrer had kept strict watch over me for about two months, and thought the track of the Feraingher army was impossible to be found, as the grass was grown up again, he took me with him hunting these Hattoy’s cattle again. We had very good diversion, had not the conclusion proved tragical; for we killed five cows, and had thoughts of departing: but a bull ran off with a lance in his side, and we, being loth to lose it, pursued him, and stuck two or three more in his belly. When his wounds smarted, he grew enraged and turned upon us. One man more bold than the rest threw another lance, and hit him on the back. Upon which he ran directly at the man; we hallooed to frighten him off, but he pursued his adversary; and when he had overtaken him, he tossed him several yards above his head. The ground where he fell was stony, and we were afraid of throwing lances lest we should hit the man, who was all this time endeavouring to rise; but the bull pushed him down, as often as he made the attempt, and gored him to that degree with his horns, that he soon died. When we perceived the man was past all recovery, we threw more lances at the bull, till he fell down like a log. I have known them fight so long, that they have been absolutely dead before they fell; for they will fix their feet so wide, and die standing so firmly, that we have been obliged to pull them down by the tail. They were forced to dress the meat this evening, because of going home next day with the corpse of their neighbour. When we had roasted the beef, and made an end of our supper, we made up our enters for the next morning. For my part, I packed up as much as I could conveniently carry; for I was determined to go away this very night. I laid down, indeed, when the rest did, but could not sleep much, it may be supposed, for thinking of the hazardous journey I was about to undertake. Every one else slept soundly enough, as they were tired, and their bellies were full; so about midnight I took up my burden, and away I marched, directing my course to the northward, not without recommending myself to the good providence of God to be my conductor.

The instructions I received from Ry-Nanno, and which on inquiry I found from others, was to go to the southward, till I came to Vohitch Futey; and to leave it on my right hand, directing my course between the north and west, till I got to the great river Oneghaloyhe, which goes to St. Augustine’s bay; then to keep along the river till I saw highland running along the westernmost parts of the forest: and then when I had passed over the river, to go away to the westward.

I walked very briskly all night, and at break of day I saw the white mountains very near. By this I perceived I had made a great progress, and therefore would not conceal myself as at first I proposed; but proceeded on my journey, looking sharply about me, thinking it morally impossible for them to overtake and find me, should they have attempted it. I went, therefore, merrily on, singing Madagascar songs; for I had forgotten all my English ones. The bellowing of the wild cattle would now and then make me start; imagining they were my pursuers. When I came to a pleasant brook, I baited there; and at sunset I looked out for a covert in a thicket to lie in; but I could not find one near at hand. So I was contented to repose myself in the open plain, pulling up a sufficient quantity of grass for a bed and a pillow, and making a small fire to warm my beef. I did not think proper to make a great one, for fear of its being discerned at a distance; for in the afternoon I observed some fires to the eastward of the mountain. I was disturbed in my sleep by night-walkers, whom I imagined were my pursuers; and accordingly I took up my lances in order to defend myself; but when I was thoroughly awake, I found they were only some of Hattoy’s cattle, that snorted at the smell of my fire, and ran away, much more afraid of me than I was of them.

The second day in the morning, I stayed till the sun appeared before I moved forward, that I might not be deceived in my course; for being abreast of Vohitch Futey, I walked more easily; and though I was under no apprehensions of being overtaken by deaan Afferrer’s people, yet as there might be others in the forest a hunting of beeves, I was very circumspect. Nothing remarkable happened this day. I looked out early this evening for a lodging, the clouds gathering very black, and soon found a large thick tree, where I made me a fire, warmed me some meat, and hung up the remainder, to keep it as dry as I could; for I had nothing else that could be prejudiced by the rain. At length, it poured down as I expected, in a violent manner, attended with thunder and lightning; it soon penetrated my roof: however, I crowded myself up together, with my head on my knees, my hands betwixt my legs, and my little lamber over my ears. The rain ran down like a flood, but as it was warm I did not so much regard it; in three or four hours it was fair weather again, and I laid me down and took a comfortable nap.

The next morning I dried my beef at a fire, which I made for that purpose, for it was the third day after it was killed; but I was very careful of it, not knowing how to kill more at that time: so I put it up in clean grass and marched forward. The mountains over which I was to pass seemed very high, craggy, and thick with wood, and no path or opening could I find. It looked dismal enough, but I was determined to run all hazards. Those mountains seemed to me to traverse the island, and appeared, as we call it at sea, like double land; one hill behind another. I saw nothing all this day but a few wild cattle, and now and then a wild dog; the weather was fair, and I slept soundly all this night.

The fourth day I walked till noon, at which time I baited; my beef was now but very indifferent. In the afternoon as I was walking I saw about a dozen men before me; upon this I skulked in a bush, peeping to observe whether they had discovered me; but I was soon out of my pain, for they were surrounding some cattle a good way to the westward on a hill. I was likewise on another hill, so that I could see them throw their lances and kill three beeves, which I was well assured were more than they could carry away with them at once. I stayed where I was, proposing when they were gone to have some beef. To work they fell immediately, cutting up the beasts, and each man making up his burden, hanging the remainder up in a tree that the wild dogs might not get it, and went home to the eastward. As soon as they were gone, and I had looked well about me, I threw away my bad meat, made up to the tree, and took as much as I could well carry. Away I marched with my booty towards the mountains, not daring to rest lest they should return and discover me. In less than an hour I reached the foot of the hills in the thick woods, and finding no path or track of men, or any hopes of any, not knowing what to do, I determined to go through all; but as I happened on a run of water, I took up my quarters near it, made me a fire, cut me some wooden spits, and roasted my beef; I kept my fire burning all night lest the foxes should come and attack me.

The next morning I made up my enter with grass, binding it with the bark of trees, and moved forward up the hill. My burden was now much lighter. In an hour, though I could find no path but what some swine had made, I got to the top of it. I perceived here were faungidge and verlaway enough, with which I was very well pleased, though I did not at present much want them. I climbed a high tree to take a survey, but could discover no entrance: nothing but hills and vales one beyond another; a cragged dismal desert was all that presented itself to my view. I would have descended had I not been in danger of being seen by the hunters; besides I could not tell which way to look, whether east or west, for the passage; so setting a lance up on end, I turned the way it fell, though I imagined it was due north, or rather somewhat to the eastward. However, superstition prevailed where reason was no way concerned, for I was as likely to be right one way as another; and in case I went to the northward, so long as I knew it, I must go as often as I could to the westward; as sailors are forced to do, run their latitude first and their longitude afterwards. I went down this hill and up another, which was about an hour’s walk; but when I came to descend this, it was right up and down. Without due thought I threw down my lances, hatchet, and burden, thinking to descend by a very tall tree, whose top branches reached close to the brow, but I could not do it. However, I made ropes of the bark of a tree, and fixing them to the strongest branches, I slid down, I dare say, no less than thirty feet rather than I would lose my lances and other materials. I passed over a fine spring and run of water in the vale. Though the hill on the other side was a craggy steep rock, I found a way to ascend it; and on the top climbed another tree to take my view, but had the same dismal prospect. Here I dug faungidge, it being sunset, and seeing a hole in a large rock I had thought to take up my lodging there; but peeping in, on a sudden I heard such an outcry, which, with the echo in the rock, made so confused a noise, that I knew not what it could be. My fears prevailed, and I imagined it might be pursuers, for it drew nearer and nearer; so setting my back to a tree, with a lance in each hand, I waited for the murderers; when instantly came squeaking toward me a herd of wild swine, who ran away more terrified than myself. After I was well recovered from my fright, I made two fires for fear of the foxes, and then laid me down on my stony bed, for here was no grass.

The next morning, which was the sixth day, I made a hearty meal on faungidge and beef, and the hill extending north and south, I went straight on till it declined gradually into a valley, in which was a small river that ran westward; I am apt to think it was the head of Manner-ronder, where we fought deaan Woozington. By the time I arrived at the top of the next hill, it drew towards evening, for I was not much less than two hours ascending it; and yet, considering my burden, though it was not very heavy now, I went a very good pace. As I was looking out for a commodious lodging, that is to say, a place with the fairest stones in it, I uncovered a swarm of bees; this was a joyful sight, for it was food that would not spoil with keeping. I soon cut down a vounturk to secure the honey in, and smoked them out.

I made such a hearty meal this night of honey, faungidge, and beef, that I slept too soundly; insomuch that I was waked with a severe mortification for my thoughtless security. A fox caught hold of my heel, and would have dragged me along; whereupon I startled, and catching up a firebrand gave him such a blow as staggered him; but as soon as he recovered he flew at my face. By this time I was upon my feet and recovered one of my lances, with which I prevented him from ever assaulting me more, but his hideous howling brought more about him. I saw three whose eyes sparkled like diamonds, however they kept at a distance; for with some dry light wood that lay near me I made a blaze directly, in order to keep a flame all night, but did not wake to renew it as I ought to have done: so that both my fires being almost reduced to ashes, one of them boldly ventured between them, and it was very happy for me that he did not seize upon my throat; for when men have negligently slept where they haunt, I have known them meet with such a mischance. After I had made up my fires, and put my enemies to flight, I examined my heel and found two great holes on each side, where his teeth had entered; I bound it up with a piece of my lamber in the best manner I could; and making a great fire, threw the fox upon it by way of resentment. I had not that pleasure in eating my breakfast this morning as I had in my last night’s supper; besides, my beef was now a little too tender; however, as I had honey enough for a week and here was faungidge in plenty, I did not concern myself much about it.

I walked on this seventh day; and though I favoured my lame foot as much as I could, yet I rested but once all day. This way happened to be plain and easy. At evening I came to a place where lay several bodies of trees which were dead and dry. Thinking this, therefore, a proper lodging, I made four very large fires, sat me down to supper, and afterwards ventured to go to sleep with all those fires around me. But my heel now grew so very painful, and was swelled to that degree, that I could not go forward the next day; but as there was faungidge enough within twenty or thirty yards of me, I dug up several, and determined to continue here till my foot grew better. My beef was soon gone, but faungidge was both meat and drink to me. I saved part of my beef-fat to dress my heel with; which, as I gave it six days’ rest, took down all the swelling. During this time I made such large fires every night, that could they have been seen, were like those of an army. I had not far to go for wood or any thing else that I wanted, or at least that I could any way expect in such a place.

After these six days’ rest, it being the fourteenth since I left deaan Afferrer, I went forward, and that day passed over three very high mountains. By this time my honey was all gone, and I could find no more; so that I lived altogether upon faungidge.

The fifteenth day I walked very smartly again, and passed over several hills that were very rough, craggy, and tiresome. I took particular care however to get dry wood enough, for I never ventured to sleep without four fires.

The sixteenth day I had not travelled above three hours, before I perceived the earth to be of another colour; it was chalk then, and now clay. This excited my curiosity, to climb the first high tree I could meet with, from whence I discovered an opening to the northward, with which I was highly delighted, but it was too far for me to reach that night, so I took up my lodging as before. This night I was disturbed by a herd of wild swine.

The seventeenth day I walked very hard, being very desirous to get through this wilderness, which still abounded with hills. About noon I reached the open country, where I could look about me with some pleasure and walk upon level ground. I was now like one just delivered from a prison, having been twelve days in this mountainous desert. I was actually travelling near six days, and I imagine I did not walk less than twenty miles a day; it might have been passed indeed in three days, had I been so fortunate as to have found out the path.

I had not been long in the plain before I came to a little wood, where I took up my lodging, because here was firing and faungidge in plenty, which I was very glad to see, having been under some melancholy apprehensions of wanting provision in the plains; but I had soon a still greater hope of being better supplied, for in the night I was waked by the roaring of a bull, by which I was very well assured it was the great northern forest of wild cattle, which Ry-Nanno had informed me of.

The next day, which was the eighteenth, I saw several herds of Hattoy’s cattle; and perceived there were more here than in the southern forest. I looked wishfully about to discover some hunters if I could, or to observe if any crows hovered about any particular place, for then I might reasonably expect some beast that had been wounded was fallen there. In the afternoon I came to a river, which was both deep and large. As I was searching for a proper place to wade through or swim over, I spied a large alligator; I still walked upon the banks, and in a short time saw three more. This was a mortifying stroke and almost dispirited me. I went on till I came to a shallower place, where I entered the river about ten yards, with a view to swim over the rest in four or five minutes, but seeing an alligator make towards me, I ran back directly; he pursued me till I got into very shallow water, and then he turned back into the deep, for they will never attack a man near the shore. It nettled me to be stopped by a river that was scarcely a hundred yards over. At length I recollected that at Bengal there are the largest alligators in the world, and so bold that they will take a man out of a shallow boat, insomuch that whenever we came off from the shore in the night we made one small fire at the head, and another at the stern of the boat, which no alligator would ever come near. Distress puts a man’s invention upon the rack; something, thought I, like this must be done, for it was to no purpose to stay here, neither could I go back; so making choice of a stick for a firebrand, I cut it into long splinters, and waited till it grew dark, then, after I had bound my two fire-sticks to the top of one of my lances, I went into the water, and recommending myself to the care of Providence, I turned upon my back, and swam over with my two lances and hatchet in one hand, and my firebrand burning in the other; my lamber being twisted and tied fast about my lances.

The place where I pitched upon to swim over had a gap through the thicket on each side one against another, which made it look like a common passage either for men or cattle. No sooner was I landed, than I heard some wild cattle grazing; whereupon I extinguished my fire immediately, and washed myself as silently as possible, that they should not smell me. I stood some time close under the cover of a thick bush in the passage expecting that they would come to drink. The wind, as it luckily fell out, was with them, so that they could not scent me, though they often snorted for that purpose. I stood prepared with my lance, and did not wait long before a numerous herd came running through the passage to the river, and as they passed by, I pushed my lance with all the force I was able into above forty of them, and used my utmost endeavours to wound them in the belly. They ran roaring away, fighting, and goring one another, to revenge as it were the blows they felt, for they expected no other enemies than what were amongst themselves. I thought I had struck a sufficient number, and hoped some of their wounds would prove mortal; however, I would not run any hazard by night, and therefore sat down contented without roast meat, and secured myself from their attacks in a thick wood. The next morning I went to see what success I had met with, and I found one bull and three cows dead upon the sand; I soon cut up the youngest and fattest and carried it to my quarters, near which I made an oven to bake it. This is a common practice, though I never described it before; however it is made after the following manner: a hole is dug about five feet in length, two over, and about three in depth; this is filled with wood, which is then kindled; on the top of the fire I put about a dozen large stones, each weighing about a pound. Whilst the fire was burning I cut off the bark from a tree, called the succore, and took the outer part away, and the inner being pliant and lying flat it served for the cover of my oven. When the fire was burnt to ashes, I laid three or four green sticks across, that my beef might rest upon them; the stones being red-hot, I placed them about the bottom and sides; I laid likewise more sticks over the top, and then the bark covered all close with the earth. This is our method of baking meat in the forests. I broiled some for my breakfast, and then went out to see what farther execution I had done, and found six more beeves lying dead upon the plain: however I had enough here. When I returned, my beef was as well baked as it would have been at any baker’s in London. When it was cold, I made it up into an enter, but went no farther this day.

The next morning I went forward well pleased with my load: though I discovered some smoke to the eastward, yet I saw no people, but many herds of wild cattle; as there were several little woods in this plain, I never wanted either a covert for a lodging, or grass to make me a tolerably soft bed to lie on. The country was pleasant enough, and travelling was so easy, that I determined if it should be my misfortune to meet with as bad a master as Mevarrow, and there were no hopes of getting to England, that I would run away and live by myself in this forest.

The twenty-first day in the morning I saw several wild dogs engaged with, and pulling down a bull that had been wounded as I imagined some time before, for I never knew the dogs attack them unless they were. It was no business of mine to interrupt them, and if it were, it would have been a very dangerous thing to make the attempt, for though they do not seek to assault a man, yet upon provocation they have been known to destroy several. This night was the first time I ever felt mosquitoes in the island; for, lying in the evening in a covert near a run of water, they stung me to that degree, that I was forced to shift my quarters, and as it was moonlight I got up and walked three or four miles farther to the top of a hill, where I slept without molestation. I had no occasion to light more than one fire, for there was no great danger of wild beasts here.

On the twenty-second day I discovered a fog in one long canal that ran from east to west, which as it continued all the day long, and at a vast distance, I conceived it to hang over the great river Oneghaloyhe, that runs into Augustine-bay. This put new life into me, to think I drew near to a seaport; I saw two men that day laden with beef, and would have spoken to them, but they dropped their enters and ran from me, though I called and laid down mine, and went towards them. As soon as they imagined I was gone, I saw them return and take their beef up again.

On the twenty-third day in the morning the fog appeared again, but much nearer. I walked as hard as I well could, being desirous to get to the river: it was afternoon, however, before I reached within a mile of it, and then the bushes and thorny small wood were so thick that it was with great difficulty, and many severe scratches, that I got to the river side. When I saw the river so very broad I was surprised, for at least it was twice as broad as the Thames at London. I had been informed that a man might wade over it near the head, but that they always made use of canoes to transport themselves over other parts, which way they got them I cannot say, for my own part I had no such help. I made my fire, went to supper, and then reposed myself to rest, or rather to study which way I should get over. In the morning I determined to look out for some old trees or branches that were fallen, and in a short time I met with several that were fit for my purpose, not only great arms but trunks of trees broken off by tempests, these I dragged down to the river side. In the next place I made it my business to find out a creeper, which is as large as a withy, but twining round trees is very pliant. I lopped the superfluous branches off of six long and thick arms of the trees, and placing three at bottom and three at top, I bound them together, making what we call in the East Indies, a catamaran. I built it afloat in the water, for otherwise I could not have launched it; and moored it to a lance which I stuck in the shore for that purpose; I then fixed my enter in order to preserve it as dry as I possibly could, as also my hatchet and my other lance, after that I made a paddle to row with; then I pulled up my lance and kept it in my hand to defend myself against the alligators, in case any of them should assault me, for I was informed they were very numerous and very fierce here. It blowed a fresh gale at west against the stream, which in the middle made a sea, and gave me no small concern; for I was in great danger of being overset and becoming a prey to the alligators. It pleased God, however, to protect me, and I landed safely on the other shore. This being a pretty good day’s work, I determined not to go much farther that evening before I took up my lodging.

On the twenty-fourth day, though I travelled a great way, yet nothing material offered; I saw indeed a few wild cattle, but not near the number that was on the other side of the river, and those too were somewhat shyer, by which I concluded it to be an inhabited country.

On the twenty-fifth day my burden grew lighter and began to smell, but I did not concern myself much about that, since I resolved to speak to the first people I could see; for I remembered, that deaan Trongha had told me that his town lay by the north side of this river. I forded over a brook which runs into the great river. The country is very pleasant, and here are abundance of palmetto trees, which they call satter-futey. They bear a long leaf like a cocoa-nut tree, but the fruit is quite of another nature: of these leaves the people make baskets, caps, &c. I saw no wild cattle all this day.

On the twenty-sixth day, though I walked very hard again, yet I baited in the heat of the day, and in the afternoon, making the best of my way, I espied a smoke; and being determined to speak to those who made it I mended my pace, lest they should be passengers only that baited as I did, and would be gone; but I soon heard the tongues of several children, who ran into the woods as soon as they saw me. Upon which, immediately three men, armed with guns and lances, started out. I looked behind me for a commodious shelter, not knowing what to think of them, and retreated a little; which they perceiving, left their guns behind them, and came towards me. Upon that I went to meet them, and, at a distance, desired to know what king they belonged to. They answered deaan Mernaugha, and as a farther testimony, perceiving that I was a white man, they spoke two or three words in broken English; and after that we shook hands, and saluted each other with the usual compliment, salamonger. They invited me to go with them to their habitations, where we sat down, and I gave them a short detail of my travels. They said they had heard of me, and having some susers in the pot just boiled, they desired me to eat with them. After which, I asked them several questions relating to their trade, their war, and peace; and one of the most experienced of them gave me the following melancholy account of it.

Our late king, Rer Vovvern, said he, killed himself with grief at an irruption which Rer Trimmenongarevo made with nine thousand men, and took his two daughters captives. Our prince pursued him with seven thousand, but the enemy, by a stratagem, got privately into Feraignher, and plundered it; deaan Woozington at the same time attacked the southern parts, having made canoes and passed the great river; the other passages being first stopped. He took also a great many people, but deaan Trongha, and his brother Rer Befaugher, who stayed at home with two thousand men, disconcerted his measures and prevented his carrying off the captives; which so enraged Woozington, who was a man of a barbarous disposition, that he slew a great many women and children. Rer Trimmenongarevo took a contrary method, for he sent messengers with friendly invitations to the people to come and live in his country and be his subjects, and with repeated assurances, that he would restore to them their wives and children; which promise he punctually performed, and still continues so to do; so that some hundreds are gone away: and he still so embarrasses us, who are unwilling to leave our native country, that many of us are obliged to fly into these forests and secret recesses in order to be safe, contenting ourselves, as you see, with what the country naturally affords us; for we dare neither plant nor keep cattle, lest we should be surprised. We have another petty prince in the mountains, who takes this opportunity to make incursions, and helps to impoverish us, so that we have enemies all around us; and those who remain in towns are almost famished. For we have no friends but white men, and there has not been a ship come this way a long time; and should they be apprized of our poverty they would come no more. Thus this kingdom, which was lately the glory of the island, is now almost reduced to nothing.