Chapter C: L. Allen, writing of its culture in his work on "Bulbs and

Tuberous-Rooted Plants," says: "The principal point learned in regard to its culture is, that it must be treated as a plant and not as a bulb. The enthusiastic florist, seeing the many good qualities of the plant, has led amateurs to believe it could be treated as a bulb, and planted out in the same manner as the gladiolus or tigridia and kept dormant during the winter in the same manner. This is a great mistake, as the tubers will not endure as long a period of rest and cannot be exposed to the air for a long time without seriously injuring their vitality. The tubers must be kept in dry earth or sand, until they show signs of growth, which will be not later than the first of March; then they may be started into rapid growth. After the eyes are fully developed the tubers may be divided: each eye will make a plant. Then they are treated in all respects like greenhouse plants, and grown on until the proper season for their planting out. This is not before the first of June, as Begonias are quite sensitive to cold nights, but not at all to heat. At that time the plants should be fully 6 inches in height and proportionately strong. Such plants will make a grand display the entire season, rather delighting in great heat."

In starting the tubers in March, they should be placed in moist sand or moss in a temperature of 60 deg. to 65 deg., either in the greenhouse or window. After the buds are well started the tubers may be divided as pointed out, or planted whole. They prefer a rich, rather sandy soil. When they are well under way give them all the light and air they will bear, and keep them close to the glass to avoid "legginess" and to insure a firm, sturdy growth. A week before planting them out they should be given abundance of air and light to "harden off" the plants preparatory to setting them in sun and wind.

The beds should be in a somewhat sheltered place where they will be partially shaded from the hot midday sun. Let the soil be well enriched with old manure or humus and thoroughly worked over to a depth of one foot. During dry periods the beds will need watering from time to time; but never water them when the sun is shining full on them, or the foliage may be scorched. A mulch of leaf-mold or old manure will be helpful in keeping the soil moist and the roots cool.

Before frost the tubers should be carefully taken up and gradually dried in the shade, after which they are to be placed in dry sand or earth, in shallow boxes, and kept till time to start them in the spring. They should be kept in a cool place, secure from frost and away from stoves or heating pipes.

For amateurs it is better to recommend buying bulbs of the several colors, instead of attempting to grow them from seeds, which are extremely small and require early sowing, warmth and close attention.

TULIPS are hardy and easy to grow. The advice given under _Bulbs_, _Crocus_ and _Hyacinth_ applies to Tulips. They may be forced for winter bloom (see under _Window-Gardens_). The garden bed will last several years if well cared for, but most satisfactory bloom is secured if the old bulbs are taken up every two or three years and replanted, all the inferior ones being cast aside. When the stock begins to run out, buy anew. Plant in October, 4 to 6 inches deep.

TURNIPS and RUTABAGAS are usually a fall crop, from seed sown in July and early August, although many kitchen gardens have them from spring sown seed. The culture is easy. Sow in drills 12 inches apart. They will become edible in from six to eight weeks. They are cool-weather crops, and the tops stand much frost. If maggots bother, do not raise them on the same land again for three or four years. Bordeaux mixture repels the flea-beetles. One ounce will sow 150 feet of drill.

VARIETIES. It is usually one of the first desires of the intending planter to inquire about Varieties. It is one of the secondary things to be considered, however, for the first thing to do is to prepare the land, to determine whether one's soil and site are adapted to the plant in question, and to discuss other matters of a general nature. When all the fundamental things are settled, then the question of Varieties, which is a special matter, may be taken up. Although the selection of Varieties is a very special matter, it is nevertheless essential to success or satisfaction in the growing of any plant.

It should first be considered that the selection of Varieties is very largely a personal matter. The man should grow the Varieties which he likes. This is especially true in the selection of Varieties for the home grounds, in which case the market ideals enter very little into the problem. Having satisfied one's own mind as to what kinds of Varieties he would like, he may then inquire of the neighbors and of experts if those Varieties are adapted to the soil and climate. If he intends to grow for market, he should canvass the market demands thoroughly before choosing the Varieties. The lists of Varieties in books, bulletins, and seedmen's catalogues are hints, not rules. As a general statement, it may be said that the only way to determine the best variety for one's own conditions is to experiment. There is intense satisfaction in the experimenting itself. The best lists of Varieties are those which are recommended for some specific purpose, and which represent the combined opinions of many expert growers. It is rare that one man's judgment should be final, particularly with respect to fruits or plants which are grown in general outdoor conditions. Under glass a gardener can make his climate and conditions, and therefore he can adapt his conditions to his plants. The experiment station test usually represents but one man's opinion. It may be a more valuable opinion than that of another man, but it is not final. It should be studied in connection with other lists, particularly those made by practical growers. If one desires to choose Varieties, therefore, he should consult the best growers of those plants in his immediate neighborhood; he should call upon the experiment station of his state or province; and he should consult the most recent writings on the subject.

VEGETABLE GARDEN. It is one of the choicest of pleasures to raise one's own vegetables. Make the Vegetable Garden ample, but economize labor. Plant the things in rows, not in beds. Then they can be tilled easily, either by horse- or hand-tools. Wheel-hoes will accomplish most of the labor of tillage in a small garden. Have the rows long, to avoid waste of time in turning and to economize the land. One row can be devoted to one vegetable; or two or more vegetables of like requirements (as parsnips and salsify) may comprise a row. Have the permanent vegetables, as rhubarb and asparagus, at one side, where they will not interfere with the plowing or tilling. The annual vegetables should be grown on different parts of the area in succeeding years, thus practicing something like a rotation of crops. If radish or cabbage maggots or club-root become thoroughly established in the plantation, omit for a year or more the vegetables on which they live.

Make the soil deep, mellow and rich before the seeds are sown. Time and labor will be saved. Rake the surface frequently to keep down weeds and to prevent the soil from baking (see _Tillage_). Radish seeds sown with celery or other slow-germinating seeds will come up quickly, breaking the crust and marking the rows. About the borders of the Vegetable Garden is a good place for flowers to be grown for the decoration of the house and to give to friends. Along one side of the area rows of bush fruits may be planted.

A home Vegetable Garden for a family of six would require, exclusive of potatoes, a space not over 100 by 150 feet. Beginning at one side of the garden and running the rows the short way (having each row 100 feet long) sowings may be made, as soon as the ground is in condition to work, of the following:

Fifty feet each of parsnips and salsify.

One hundred feet of onions, 25 feet of which may be potato or set onions, the balance black-seed for summer and fall use.

Fifty feet of early beets, 50 feet of lettuce, with which radish may be sown to break the soil and be harvested before the lettuce needs the room.

One hundred feet of early cabbage, the plants for which should be from a frame or purchased. Set the plants 18 inches to 2 feet apart.

One hundred feet of early cauliflower; culture same as for cabbage.

Four hundred and fifty feet of peas, sown as follows:

100 feet of extra early.
100 feet of intermediate.
100 feet of late.
100 feet of extra early, sown late.
50 feet of dwarf varieties.

If trellis or brush is to be avoided, frequent sowings of the dwarfs will maintain a supply.

After the soil has become warm and all danger of frost has passed, the tender vegetables may be planted, as follows:

Corn in five rows 3 feet apart, three rows to be early and intermediate, and two rows late.

One hundred feet of string beans, early to late varieties.

Vines as follows:

10 hills of cucumbers, 6 x 6 feet.
20 hills of muskmelon, 6 x 6 feet.
6 hills of early squash, 6 x 6 feet.
10 hills of Hubbard, 6 x 6 feet.

One hundred feet of okra.

Twenty eggplants. One hundred ft. (25 plants) tomatoes.

Six large clumps of rhubarb.

An asparagus bed 25 feet long and 3 feet wide.

Late cabbage, cauliflower and celery are to occupy the space made vacant by removing early crops of early and intermediate peas and string beans.

A border on one side or end will hold all herbs, such as parsley, thyme, sage, hyssop, mints.

VERBENA. The Verbena is one of the most satisfactory garden plants, blooming early. Bloom continues through the dry, hot days of summer. As the cool weather of the fall comes on, Verbenas increase in size of plant and flower until killed by severe frost. Plants grown from seed sown in a hotbed or house early in the spring, transplanted into pots or boxes when large enough, and planted out as soon as the ground has become warm, are more vigorous and seem to have more fragrance than those grown from cuttings. Many of the strains have become so well fixed that the colors come true from seed. Cuttings are often employed, but the handling of stock plants is a difficult matter except in the hands of a professional, and when plants are wanted in quantity it is cheaper to buy them of the plantsman than to grow them from seed or attempt to keep over stock plants. Therefore, for the home garden, seed-grown plants are usually most satisfactory. Give a sunny position. Thin to 10 to 15 inches apart each way.

VINCA, or PERIWINKLE. Trailing plants. Useful in covering unsightly places, for vases, urns or baskets. Some of the species (as the common evergreen, mat-like "running myrtle") are hardy, but the most useful ones need the protection of a house through the winter. The variegated-leaved kinds are fine for winter decorations. Propagated mostly by cuttings. Perennials.

VINES. The use of Vines for screens and pillar decorations has increased in the last decade until now they may be seen in nearly all grounds. The tendency has been towards using the hardy Vines, of which the ampelopsis, or Virginia creeper, is one of the most common. It is a very rapid grower, and lends itself to training more readily than many others. The Japan ampelopsis (_A. tricuspidata_ or _Veitchii_) is a fine clinging Vine, growing very rapidly when once established, and being brilliantly colored after the first fall frosts. It clings closer than the other, but is not so hardy. Either of these may be grown from cuttings or division of the plants. Two woody twiners of recent introduction are the actinidia and the akebia, both from Japan. They are perfectly hardy, and are rapid growers. The former has large, thick, glossy leaves, not affected by insects or disease, growing thickly along the stem and branches, making a perfect thatch of leaves. It blooms in June. The flowers, which are white with a purple center, are borne in clusters, followed by round or longish edible fruits. The akebia has very neat cut foliage, quaint purple flowers, and often bears ornamental fruit. Other hardy Vines are the wistaria, clematis, tecoma (or trumpet-flower), aristolochia (or Dutchman's pipe), hedera (or ivy), and loniceras (or honeysuckles).

Of the tender Vines, the nasturtiums and ipomoeas are the most common, while the adlumia (p. 3), balloon vine (p. 28), passion vine, and the gourds (p. 115), are frequently used. One of the best of recent introduction is the annual hop, especially the variegated variety. This is a very rapid growing Vine, seeding itself each year, and needing little care. See _Hop_. All the tender Vines should be planted after all danger of frost is over.

_ANNUAL HERBACEOUS CLIMBERS_

_Tendril-climbers_

Adlumia (biennial).
Balloon Vine.
Cobaea.
Gourds.
Nasturtiums.
Sweet Pea.
Wild Cucumber.

_Twiners_

Beans, Flowering.
Cypress Vine.
Dolichos.
Hop, Japanese.
Ipomoea.
Moonflower.
Morning-glory.
Thunbergia.
Yam, Chinese, or Cinnamon Vine (perennial from a hardy tuber).

_PERENNIAL WOODY CLIMBERS FOR THE OPEN_

_Tendril-climbers_

Ampelopsis tricuspidata.
Clematis of many kinds.
Grape of various kinds.
Greenbrier.
Ivy (by roots).
Roses (scramblers).
Trumpet Creeper (by roots).
Virginia Creeper.

_Twiners_

Actinidia polygama.
Akebia quinata.
Aristolochia, or Dutchman's Pipe.
Bittersweet, or Celastrus.
Honeysuckles.
Moonseed.
Wistaria.

VIOLET. While the culture of Violets as house-plants rarely proves successful, there is no reason why a good supply may not be had elsewhere through the greater part of the winter and the spring months. A sheltered location being selected, young plants from runners may be set in August or September. Have the ground rich and well drained. These plants will make fine crowns by December, and often will bloom before weather sufficiently cold to freeze them. In order to have flowers through the winter, it will be necessary to afford some protection to the plants. This may best be done by building a frame of boards large enough to cover the plants, making the frame in the same way as for a hotbed, four to six inches higher at the back than the front. Cover the frame with sash or boards, and as the weather becomes severe, mats or straw should be placed over and around the frame to protect the plants from freezing. Whenever the weather will permit, the covering should be removed and air admitted, but no harm will come if the frames are not disturbed for several weeks. A large amount of sunlight and a high temperature through the middle of winter are to be avoided, for if the plants are stimulated a shorter period of bloom will result. In April the frame may be removed, the plants yielding the later part of the crop without protection. Violets belong with the "cool" plants of florists. When well hardened off, considerable frost does not harm them. They should always be kept stocky. Start a new lot from runner-plants each year. They thrive in a temperature of 55 deg. to 65 deg.

WALKS. The place for a Walk is where it is needed. It should go directly between two points. It need not be straight, but if it is curved, the curve should be direct. That is, the pedestrian should be conscious that he is going in the direction in which he desires to go, and is not making a detour for the simple purpose of following the walk. Convenience should be the first thing to be considered. After the Walks have been laid in the most convenient places, the question of ornamenting the borders may be considered. It is always well to avoid, so far as possible, the bisecting of lawns by Walks, as that makes two lawns where there should be only one. The larger a greensward can be made to look, the more park-like and natural is the place. Avoid taking the Walks circuitously around the borders unless they are laid for the simple purpose of making a ramble to show off the grounds. All Walks which are designed for serious use should appear to be necessary, direct and convenient.

Some soils which contain considerable loam and sand will pack with tramping and will make good Walks, but it is usually necessary to lay some material on the soil. Gravel, cinders, and the like, may be better than the natural surface; but in many cases they are worse, since the surface is loose and is unpleasant to walk on. In Walks which are on decided slopes, and down which the water is likely to run, any loose material is very objectionable, since it runs to the low places. The best material for Walks, all things considered, is cement, or what is called artificial stone. If well made, it is as durable as flagging, and is not so likely to get out of place. It holds its surface perfectly year after year.

The only objection to cement Walks is when they are more or less temporary, for in such cases they cannot be moved. There is often very serious difficulty in securing good cement Walks, but the difficulties are easily overcome. They are chiefly two: there is not sufficient draining material beneath the cement; and the cement itself is not made strong enough. There should be at least a foot of loose material, as brickbats or cinders, below the cement cover; and if the place is low and likely to hold water, there should be still greater drainage. Pound the material down, or let it stand for some time until it becomes thoroughly settled together. Then lay the cement in two courses. The first course may be three or four inches thick and made of well mixed mortar, comprising three parts Portland cement, one part water lime, and two to three times as much sharp sand as Portland. When this has become partially hardened, but before it is set and while still moist, put on a finishing layer of one inch, made of one part Portland cement, one part water lime, and one part sharp sand. It is important that the materials be very thoroughly mixed. See that the edges of the walk are made square and true by laying down a form of boards lengthwise the area before the cement is put on. The edges should be as thick as the middle, for a thin crust on the edge tends to snap off. A walk made in this way on a well-drained foundation will last almost indefinitely. It is best that it be made in such season that it can become thoroughly set before frosty weather comes.

WALLFLOWER. A favorite plant for pots or garden, having a clove-like fragrance. Seed of most varieties should be sown the year before wanted. One kind, being an annual, will flower the same season the seed is sown. Hardy. Two to 3 feet.

WASHING orchard trees is an old practice. It usually results in making a tree more vigorous. One reason is that it destroys insects and fungi which lodge underneath the bark; but probably the chief reason is that it softens the bark and allows the trunk to expand. It is possible, also, that the potash from the soap or lye eventually passes into the ground and affords some plant-food. Trees are ordinarily Washed with soap suds or with a lye solution. The material is usually applied with an old broom or a stiff brush. The scrubbing of the tree is perhaps nearly or quite as beneficial as the application of the wash itself.

It is customary to wash trees late in spring or early in summer, and again in the fall, with the idea that such Washing destroys the eggs and the young of borers. It no doubt will destroy borers if they are just getting a start, but it will not keep away the insects which lay the eggs, and will not destroy the borers which have found their way underneath the bark. It is perhaps quite as well to wash the trees very early in the spring, when they are starting into growth. It is an old practice to wash trees with strong lye when they are affected with the oyster-shell bark louse. The modern method of treating these pests, however, is to spray with some kerosene compound when the young growth is starting, for at that time the young insects are migrating to the new wood and they are very easily destroyed.

WATERING HOUSE PLANTS. It is impossible to give rules for the Watering of plants. Conditions that hold with one grower are different from those of another. Advice must be general. Give one good Watering at the time of potting, after which no water should be given until the plants really need it. If, on tapping the pot, it gives out a clear ring, it is an indication that water is needed. In the case of a soft-wooded plant, just before the leaves begin to show signs of wilt, is the time for Watering. When plants are taken up from the ground, or when plants have their roots cut back in repotting, gardeners rely, after the first copious Watering, on syringing the tops of the plants two or three times each day, until a new root-growth has started, Watering at the roots only when absolutely necessary. Plants that have been potted into larger pots will grow without the extra attention of syringing, but those from the borders, that have had their roots mutilated or shortened, should be placed in a cool, shady spot and be syringed often. One soon becomes familiar with the wants of individual plants, and can judge closely as to need of water. All soft-wooded plants with a large leaf-surface need more water than hard-wooded plants, and a plant in luxuriant growth of any kind more than a plant that has been cut back or become defoliated. When plants are grown in living-rooms, moisture must be supplied from some source, and if no arrangement has been made for having a moist air the plants should be syringed often. See _Syringing_.

WATERMELON. The culture of this is essentially the same as that for muskmelons (which see), except that most varieties require a warmer place and longer period of growth. Give the hills a distance of from 6 to 10 feet apart. Choose a warm, "quick" soil and sunny exposure. It is essential, in the North, that the plants grow rapidly and come into bloom early. One ounce of seed will plant thirty hills.

WAX PLANT. The Wax Plant, or HOYA, is one of the commonest of window-garden plants, and yet it is one which people usually have difficulty in flowering. However, it is one of the easiest plants to manage if a person understands its nature. It is naturally a summer-blooming plant, and should rest during the winter time. In the winter, keep it just alive in a cool and rather dry place. If the temperature does not go above 50 deg. Fahr., so much the better; neither should it go much lower. In late winter or spring, the plant is brought out to warm temperature, given water and started into growth. The old flower-stems should not be cut off, since new flowers come from them as well as from the new wood. When it is brought out to be started into growth, it may be repotted, sometimes into a size larger pot, but always with more or less fresh earth. The plant should increase in value each year. In conservatories, it is sometimes planted out in the ground and allowed to run over a wall, in which case it will reach a height of many feet.

WEEDS. Many very strong Weeds are a compliment to one's soil: only good soil produces them. But they are not a compliment to one's tillage. If the soil is well prepared and well tilled to conserve moisture and to unlock plant-food (see _Tillage_), Weeds will find little chance of growing. Stir the ground often: it benefits the ground and keeps out the Weeds. Plant vegetables in long straight rows rather than in beds, for thereby tillage is made easier. For beds and for small plants, the hand-weeders (as shown in the margin) are very efficient. They save laborious finger-work. Weed seeds are often distributed in manure, especially if Weeds have been allowed to grow and ripen on the piles. See that pernicious Weeds do not seed about the premises. For the treatment of weedy lawns, see the article _Lawns_.

WINDBREAKS. There is the greatest difference of opinion as to the value of Windbreaks for fruit plantations. These differences arise from the fact that a Windbreak may be of great benefit in one place, but a disadvantage in another. It is always advisable to break the force of very strong winds, for such winds tend to injure the trees when laden with fruit or ice, and they blow off the fruit; and in dry countries they cause the soil to become parched. If the wind is usually warmer than the area, however, particularly in the winter time, it is better not to stop it, but to allow it to circulate through the plantation. This is the case in areas which lie close to large bodies of water. The wind coming off the water is warmer than that off the land, and tends thereby to protect the fruit plantation from severe cold. A circulation of air is desirable in late spring and early fall in order to avoid the still frosts. Therefore, if the area is very closely surrounded by dense plantations, it may have what the fruit-growers call "stagnant air;" but thinning out the Windbreak on one or two sides, or cutting holes through it, may allow the air to move through, thereby affording atmospheric drainage and insuring greater immunity from the light local frosts.

It is ordinarily better to break the force of the winds than to stop or deflect them. That is, the Windbreak may be thin enough to allow the wind to take its normal direction, but its force is broken. A stone wall or a very dense hedge of evergreens may cause the wind to rise over the plantation or to be deflected to one side; and this, in many cases, as already said, may be a decided disadvantage. The philosophy of a good Windbreak for fruit plantations may be summed up in this way: the force of heavy winds should be broken; warm winds should be allowed to circulate freely through the plantation; still air should be avoided.

Ordinarily, one or two rows of deciduous trees are sufficient protection. When the plantation is very much exposed to very cold or land winds, a thick evergreen screen may be a decided advantage. It is usually better to have the heavy Windbreak on the upper side of the area, so that it may not interfere with the natural drainage of the cold air down the slope. In making a Windbreak, it is important that those trees be chosen which will not become harboring places for orchard enemies. The wild cherry, for example, is inveterately attacked by the tent caterpillar, and the wild crabs and wild plums are likely to breed orchard insects. If the Windbreak is planted some time in advance of the orchard, the row of fruit trees next the Windbreak will be very likely to suffer from lack of moisture and food.

A different type of Windbreak is that which is desired for a shelter belt about the home grounds. The matter of atmospheric drainage does not enter into this problem to any great extent. Such shelter belt is usually placed at the extreme edge of the home yard, toward the heaviest or prevailing wind. It may be a dense plantation of evergreens. If so, the Norway spruce is one of the best for general purposes. For a lower belt, the arborvitae is excellent. Some of the pines, as the Scotch or Austrian, are also to be advised, particularly if the belt is at some distance from the residence. As a rule, the coarser the tree the farther it should be placed from the house.

Persons may desire to use the Windbreak as a screen to hide undesirable objects. If these objects are of a permanent character, as a barn or an unkempt property, evergreen trees should be used. For temporary screens, any of the very large-growing herbaceous plants may be used. Very excellent subjects are sunflowers, the large-growing nicotianas, castor beans, large varieties of Indian corn, and plants of like growth. Very efficient summer screens may be made with ailanthus, paulownia, basswood, sumac, and other plants which tend to throw up succulent shoots from the base. After these plants have been set a year or two, they are cut back nearly to the ground every winter or spring, and strong shoots are thrown up with great luxuriance during the summer, giving a dense screen and presenting a semi-tropical effect. For such purposes, the roots should be planted only two or three feet apart. If, after a time, the roots become so crowded that the shoots are weak, some of the plants may be removed. Top-dressing the area every fall with manure will tend to make the ground rich enough to afford a very heavy summer growth.

WIND FLOWER. See _Anemone_.

WINDOW-GARDENS. _The Summer Window Garden_.--This type of gardening is particularly suited to those who live in the crowded city, where the want of other space makes the Window-Garden the only one possible.

Handsomely finished boxes, ornamental tiling, and bracket work of wood and iron suitable for fitting out windows for the growing of plants, are on the market; but such, while desirable, are by no means necessary. A stout pine box of a length corresponding to the width of the window, about 10 inches wide and 6 deep, answers quite as well as a finer box, since it will likely be some distance above the street, and its sides, moreover, are soon covered by the vines. A zinc tray of a size to fit into the wooden box may be ordered of the tinsmith. It will tend to keep the soil from drying out so rapidly, but it is not a necessity. A few small holes in the bottom of the box will provide for drainage; but with carefulness in watering these are not necessary, since the box by its exposed position will dry out readily during summer weather, unless the position is a shaded one. In the latter case provision for good drainage is always advisable.

Since there is more or less cramping of roots, it will be necessary to make the soil richer than would be required were the plants to grow in the garden. The most desirable soil is one that does not pack hard like clay, nor contract much when dry, but remains porous and springy. Such a soil is found in the potting soil used by florists, and it may be obtained from them at from 50 cts. to $1 a barrel. Often the nature of the soil will be such as to make it desirable to have at hand a barrel of sharp sand for mixing with the soil, to make it more porous and prevent baking.

Some pot the plants and then set them in the window-box, filling the spaces between the pots with moist moss. Again, they are planted directly in the soil. The former method, as a general rule, is to be preferred in the winter Window-Garden; the latter during the summer.

The plants most valuable for the purpose are those of drooping habit, such as lobelias, tropaeolums, _Othonna crassifolia_, Kenilworth ivy, and sweet alyssum. Such plants may occupy the front row, while back of them may be the erect-growing plants, like geraniums, heliotropes, begonias, etc.

Just what plants will be most suitable will depend on the exposure. For the shady side of the street, the more delicate kinds of plants may be used. For full exposure to the sun, it will be necessary to select the more vigorous-growing kinds. In the latter position, suitable plants for drooping would be: *tropaeolums, *passifloras, the single petunias, sweet alyssum, lobelias, verbenas, mesembryanthemums. For erect-growing plants: geraniums, heliotropes, etc. If the position is a shaded one, the drooping plants might be of the following: tradescantia, Kenilworth ivy, *senecio or parlor ivy, sedums, *moneywort, vinca, *smilax, *lygodium or climbing fern. Erect-growing plants would be dracaenas, palms, ferns, coleus, centaurea, spotted calla, and others.

For shady situations the main dependence is upon plants of graceful form or handsome foliage; while for the sunny window the selection may be of blooming plants. Of the plants above mentioned for these two positions, those marked with an asterisk (*) are of climbing habit, and may be trained up about the sides of the window. Others will be found among the climbing plants mentioned under _Vines_, _Annuals_ and _Basket Plants_.

After the plants have filled the earth with roots, it will be desirable to give the surface of the soil among the plants a very light sprinkling of bone-dust or a thicker coating of rotted manure from time to time during the summer; or instead of this, a watering with weak liquid manure about once a week. This is not necessary, however, until the growth shows that the roots have about exhausted the soil.

In the fall the box may be placed on the inside of the window. In this case it will be desirable to thin out the foliage somewhat, shorten in some of the vines, and perhaps remove some of the plants. It will also be desirable to give a fresh coating of rich soil. Increased care will be necessary, also, in watering, since the plants will have less light than previously, and, moreover, there may be no provision for drainage.

_The Winter Window-Garden_ may consist simply of a jardiniere, or a few choice pot-plants on a stand at the window, or of a considerable collection, with more or less elaborate arrangements for their accommodation in the way of box, brackets, shelves and stands. Expensive arrangements are by no means necessary, nor is a large collection. The plants and flowers themselves are the main consideration, and a small collection well cared for is better than a large one unless it can be easily accommodated and kept in good condition.

The window for plants should have a southern, south-eastern or eastern exposure. Plants need all the light they can get in the winter, especially those which are expected to bloom. The window should be tight-fitting. Shutters and a curtain will be an advantage in cold weather.

Plants like a certain uniformity in conditions. It is very trying on them, and often fatal to success, to have them snug and warm one night and shivering in a temperature only a few degrees above freezing the next. Some plants will live in spite of it, but they cannot be expected to prosper. Those whose rooms are heated with steam, hot water or hot air will have to guard against keeping rooms too warm fully as much as keeping them too cool. Rooms in brick dwellings that have been warm all day, if shut up and made snug in the evening will often keep warm over night without heat except in the coldest weather. Rooms in frame dwellings, and exposed on all sides, soon cool down.

It is difficult to grow plants in rooms lighted by gas, as the burning gas vitiates the atmosphere. Most living-rooms have too dry air for plants. In such cases the bow window may be set off from the room by glass doors; one then has a miniature conservatory.

While keeping the plants at a suitable temperature, we must not forget that plants love moisture, or a humid atmosphere, and that our living-rooms ordinarily are very dry. A pan of water on the stove or on the register and damp moss among the pots, will afford plants the necessary humidity.

The foliage will need cleansing from time to time to free it from dust. A bath tub provided with a ready outlet for the water is an excellent place for this purpose. The plants may be turned on their sides and supported on a small box above the bottom of the tub. Then they may be freely syringed without danger of making the soil too wet. It is usually advisable not to wet the flowers, however, especially the white waxen kinds, like hyacinths. The foliage of Rex begonias should be cleansed with a piece of dry or only slightly moist cotton. But if the leaves can be quickly dried off by placing them in the open air on mild days, or moderately near the stove, the foliage may be syringed.

The window-box in the room will be seen near at hand, so may be more or less ornamental in character. The sides may be covered with ornamental tile held in place by moulding; or a light lattice-work of wood surrounding the box is pretty. But a neatly made and strong box of about the dimensions mentioned on page 242, with a strip of moulding at the top and bottom, answers just as well; and if painted green, or some neutral shade, only the plants will be seen or thought of. Brackets, jardinieres and stands may be purchased of any of the larger florists.

The window-box may consist of merely the wooden box; but a preferable arrangement is to make it about eight inches deep instead of six, then have the tinsmith make a zinc tray to fit the box. This is provided with a false wooden bottom, with cracks for drainage, two inches above the real bottom of the tray. The plants will then have a vacant space below them into which drainage water may pass. Such a box may be thoroughly watered as the plants require without danger of the water running on the carpet. Of course, a faucet should be provided at some suitable point on a level with the bottom of the tray, to permit of its being drained every day or so if the water tends to accumulate. It would not do to allow the water to remain long; especially should it never rise to the false bottom, as then the soil would be kept too wet.

Some persons attach the box to the window, or support it on brackets attached below the window-sill; but a preferable arrangement is to support the box on a low and light stand of suitable height provided with rollers. It may then be drawn back from the window, turned around from time to time to give the plants light on all sides, or turned with the handsome side in as may be desired, and so on.

Often the plants are set directly in the soil; but if they are kept in pots they may be rearranged, changed about to give those which need it more light, etc. Larger plants which are to stand on shelves or brackets may be in porous earthenware pots; but the smaller ones which are to fill the window-box may be placed in heavy paper pots. The sides of these are flexible, and the plants in them therefore may be crowded close together with great economy in space. When pots are spaced, damp sphagnum or other moss among them will hold them in place, keep the soil from drying out too rapidly, and at the same time give off moisture, so grateful to the foliage.

In addition to the stand, or box, a bracket for one or more pots on either side of the window, about one-third or half way up, will be desirable. The bracket should turn on a basal hinge or pivot, to admit of swinging it forward or backward. These bracket plants usually suffer for moisture, and are rather difficult to manage.

Florists now usually grow plants suitable for Window-Gardens and winter flowering, and any intelligent florist, if asked, will take pleasure in making out a suitable collection. The plants should be ordered early in the fall; the florist will then not be so crowded for time and can give the matter better attention.

Most of the plants suitable for the winter Window-Garden belong to the groups which florists grow in their medium and cool houses. The former are given a night temperature of about 60 deg., the latter about 50 deg. In each case the temperature is 10 to 15 deg. higher for the daytime. Five degrees of variation below these temperatures will be allowable without any injurious effects; even more may be borne, but not without more or less check to the plants. In bright, sunny weather the day temperature may be higher than in cloudy and dark weather.

_PLANTS FOR AN AVERAGE NIGHT TEMPERATURE OF 60 deg._

_Upright flowering plants._--Abutilons, browallias, calceolaria "Lincoln Park," begonias, bouvardias, euphorbias, scarlet sage, richardia or calla, heliotropes, fuchsias, Chinese hibiscus, jasmines, single petunias, swainsona, billbergia, freesias, geraniums, cupheas.

_Upright foliage plants._--Muehlenbeckia, _Cycas revoluta_, _Dracaena fragrans_ and others, palms, cannas, _Farfugium grande_, achyranthes, ferns, araucaria, epiphyllums, pandanus or "screw pine," _Pilea arborea_, _Ficus elastica_, _Grevillea robusta_.

_Climbing plants._--_Asparagus tenuissimus_, _A. plumosus_, _Cobaea scandens_, smilax, Japanese hop, Madeira vine (Boussingaultia), _Senecio mikanioides_ and _S. macroglossus_ (parlor ivies). See also list below.

_Low-growing, trailing, or drooping plants._--These may be used for baskets and edgings. Flowering kinds are: Sweet alyssum, lobelia, _Fuchsia procumbens_, mesembryanthemum, _Oxalis pendula_, _O. floribunda_ and others, _Russelia juncea_, _Mahernia odorata_ or honey-bell.

_Foliage plants of drooping habit._--Vincas, _Saxifraga sarmentosa_, Kenilworth ivy, tradescantia or Wandering Jew, _*Festuca glauca_, othonna, _*Isolepsis gracilis_, English ivy, _Selaginella denticulata_ and others. Some of these plants flower quite freely, but the flowers are small and of secondary consideration. Those with an asterisk (*) droop but slightly.

_PLANTS FOR AN AVERAGE NIGHT TEMPERATURE OF 50 deg._

_Upright flowering plants._--Azaleas, cyclamens, carnations, chrysanthemums, geraniums, Chinese primroses, stevia, marguerite or Paris daisy, single petunias, _Anthemis coronaria_, camellias, ardisia (berries), cineraria, violets, hyacinths, narcissus, tulips, the Easter lily when in bloom, and others.

_Upright foliage plants._--Pittosporum, palms, aucuba, euonymus (golden and silvery variegated), araucaria, pandanus, dusty miller.

_Climbing plants._--English ivy, maurandia, senecio or parlor ivy, lygodium (climbing fern).

_Drooping or trailing plants._--Flowering kinds are: Sweet alyssum, _Mahernia odorata_, Russelia and ivy geranium.

_Bulbs in the Window-Garden._--The single Roman hyacinth is an excellent house plant. Its flowers are small, but they are graceful and especially well suited for cutting. The bulbs are easily forced, and are managed like other hyacinths. The secret of forcing the Dutch bulbs and most others is to pot them and then, after watering the pots, set them away in a cool, dark place until the pot is filled with roots. They may be placed in the cellar "to root up," or be buried 3 or 4 inches deep in the soil. It is well to delay potting them until such time as they can be kept cool while forming their roots. A temperature of about 40 deg. to 45 deg. suits them during this period. In most cases it is well to select pots 5 or 6 inches in diameter and place from three to six bulbs in a pot, according to the size of the bulbs and the plants. The pot having been filled with soil, it is only necessary to press them down till the tip, or about one-fourth, shows above the soil. After this a slight jarring or sharp rap will settle the soil. They are then watered and set away, as before mentioned. If kept dark and cool they will need no more watering until they are brought out and begin to grow, when they may be watered freely.

Hyacinths, tulips and narcissus all require about the same treatment. When well rooted, which will be in six or eight weeks, they are brought out and given a temperature of some 55 deg. to 60 deg. till the flowers appear, when they should be kept in a cooler temperature, say 50 deg.

The Easter lily is managed the same way, only, to hasten its flowers, it should be kept at not lower than 60 deg. at night. Warmer will be better. Lilies may be covered an inch or more deep.

Freesias may be potted six or more in a pot of mellow soil, and then started into growth at once. At first they might be given a night temperature of 50 deg., and 55 deg. to 60 deg. when they have begun to grow.

Bulbs like the snowdrop and crocus are planted several or a dozen in a pot and buried, or treated like hyacinths; but they are very sensitive to heat, and require only to be given the light when they have started to grow, without any forcing. Forty to 45 deg. will be as warm as they ever need be kept. See the article on _Bulbs_; also, the advice given for the various plants under their respective names.

_Pests._--Window-Garden pests are discussed under _Insects_.

WINTER-KILLING is induced by a late fall growth, and also by a dry, unprotected soil. All tender woody plants should be well ripened before cold weather comes: cease tillage early: do not apply stimulating manures late in the season. Mulch all tender or half hardy plants (see _Mulch_). Even hardy plants are benefited by a mulch. When possible, it is better to bend plants to the ground and cover them than to wrap them up as they stand; but this cannot be done with tall or stiff subjects. Wrapping in straw or burlaps affords excellent protection, but it is possible to wrap too heavily. A barrel, less the heads, may be set over small plants and then filled with leaves or other loose litter; or a cylinder of wire chicken-screen may be substituted for the barrel. Remove the protection in the spring before the buds start. See that mice do not nest in the barrel or in the mulch.

ZINNIA. Showy hardy annuals. The old formal type of Zinnias has given place to a race of freer forms which are excellent plants either for color effect or for cutting. The colors have been varied and brightened, the flowers doubled and the plants dwarfed. Seed should be sown in a hotbed or house in March, transplanted once at least before planting out, and set in well enriched soil. Or, the seed may be sown where the plants are to grow. The tall varieties (3 feet) should stand 18 to 24 inches apart. These are best for masses at a distance.

_The Best and Newest Rural Books_

BOOKS ON LEADING TOPICS CONNECTED WITH AGRICULTURAL AND RURAL LIFE ARE HERE MENTIONED. EACH BOOK IS THE WORK OF A SPECIALIST, UNDER THE EDITORIAL SUPERVISION OF PROFESSOR L. H. BAILEY, OF THE CORNELL UNIVERSITY, OR BY PROFESSOR BAILEY HIMSELF, AND IS READABLE, CLEAR-CUT AND PRACTICAL.

THE RURAL SCIENCE SERIES

Includes books which state the underlying principles of agriculture in plain language. They are suitable for consultation alike by the amateur or professional tiller of the soil, the scientist or the student, and are freely illustrated and finely made.

The following volumes are now ready:

THE SOIL. By F. H. KING, of the University of Wisconsin. 303 pp. 45 illustrations. 75 cents.

THE FERTILITY OF THE LAND. By I. P. ROBERTS, of Cornell University. Fifth edition. 421 pp. 45 illustrations. $1.25.

THE SPRAYING OF PLANTS. By E. G. LODEMAN, late of Cornell University. 399 pp. 92 illustrations. $1.00.

MILK AND ITS PRODUCTS. By H. H. WING, of Cornell University. Fifth edition. 311 pp. 43 illustrations. $1.00.

THE PRINCIPLES OF FRUIT-GROWING. By L. H. BAILEY. Fourth edition. 516 pp. 120 illustrations. $1.25.

BUSH-FRUITS. By F. W. CARD, of Rhode Island College of Agriculture and Mechanic Arts. Second edition. 537 pp. 113 illustrations. $1.50.

FERTILIZERS. By E. B. VOORHEES, of New Jersey Experiment Station. Third edition. 332 pp. $1.00.

THE PRINCIPLES OF AGRICULTURE. By L. H. BAILEY. Third edition. 300 pp. 92 illustrations. $1.25.

IRRIGATION AND DRAINAGE. By F. H. KING, University of Wisconsin. 502 pp. 163 illustrations. $1.50.

THE FARMSTEAD. By I. P. ROBERTS. 350 pp. 138 illustrations. $1.25.

RURAL WEALTH AND WELFARE. By GEORGE T. FAIRCHILD, Ex-President of the Agricultural College of Kansas. 381 pp. 14 charts. $1.25.

THE PRINCIPLES OF VEGETABLE-GARDENING. By L. H. BAILEY 468 pp. 144 illustrations. $1.25.

THE FEEDING OF ANIMALS. By W. H. JORDAN, of New York State Experiment Station. 450 pp. $1.25 net.

FARM POULTRY. By GEORGE C. WATSON, of Pennsylvania State College. 341 pp. $1.25 net.

New volumes will be added from time to time to the RURAL SCIENCE SERIES. The following are in preparation:

PHYSIOLOGY OF PLANTS. By J. C. ARTHUR, Purdue University.

THE PRINCIPLES OF STOCK BREEDING. By W. H. BREWER, of Yale University.

PLANT PATHOLOGY. By B. T. GALLOWAY and associates, of U. S. Department of Agriculture.

CARE OF ANIMALS. By N. S. MAYO, of Connecticut Agricultural College.

THE POME FRUITS (Apples, Pears, Quinces). By L. H. BAILEY.

THE FARMER'S BUSINESS HANDBOOK. By I. P. ROBERTS, of Cornell University.

THE GARDEN-CRAFT SERIES

Comprises practical hand-books for the horticulturist, explaining and illustrating in detail the various important methods which experience has demonstrated to be the most satisfactory. They may be called manuals of practice, and though all are prepared by Professor BAILEY, of Cornell University, they include the opinions and methods of successful specialists in many lines, thus combining the results of the observations and experiences of numerous students in this and other lands. They are written in the clear, strong, concise English and in the entertaining style which characterize the author. The volumes are compact, uniform in style, clearly printed, and illustrated as the subject demands. They are of convenient shape for the pocket, and are substantially bound in flexible green cloth.

THE HORTICULTURIST'S RULE-BOOK. By L. H. BAILEY. Fourth edition. 312 pp. 75 cts.

THE NURSERY-BOOK. By L. H. BAILEY. Fifth edition. 365 pp. 152 illustrations. $1.00.

PLANT-BREEDING. By L. H. BAILEY. 293 pp. 20 illustrations. $1.00.

THE FORCING-BOOK. By L. H. BAILEY. 266 pp. 88 illustrations. $1.00.

GARDEN-MAKING. By L. H. BAILEY. Fifth edition. 417 pp. 256 illustrations. $1.00.

THE PRUNING-BOOK. By L. H. BAILEY. Fourth edition. 545 pp. 331 illustrations. $1.50.

THE PRACTICAL GARDEN-BOOK. By C. E. HUNN and L. H. BAILEY. 250 pp. Many marginal cuts. $1.00.

WORKS BY PROFESSOR BAILEY

THE SURVIVAL OF THE UNLIKE: A Collection of Evolution Essays Suggested by the Study of Domestic Plants. By L. H. BAILEY, Professor of Horticulture in the Cornell University.

FOURTH EDITION--515 PAGES--22 ILLUSTRATIONS--$2.00

To those interested in the underlying philosophy of plant life, this volume, written in a most entertaining style, and fully illustrated, will prove welcome. It treats of the modification of plants under cultivation upon the evolution theory, and its attitude on this interesting subject is characterized by the author's well-known originality and independence of thought. Incidentally, there is stated much that will be valuable and suggestive to the working horticulturist, as well as to the man or woman impelled by a love of nature to horticultural pursuits. It may well be called, indeed, a philosophy of horticulture, in which all interested may find inspiration and instruction.

THE SURVIVAL OF THE UNLIKE comprises thirty essays touching
upon The General Fact and Philosophy of Evolution (The Plant
Individual, Experimental Evolution, Coxey's Army and the
Russian Thistle, Recent Progress, etc.); Expounding the Fact
and Causes of Variation (The Supposed Correlations of Quality
in Fruits, Natural History of Synonyms, Reflective
Impressions, Relation of Seed-bearing to Cultivation,
Variation after Birth, Relation between American and Eastern
Asian Fruits, Horticultural Geography, Problems of Climate and
Plants, American Fruits, Acclimatization, Sex in Fruits,
Novelties, Promising Varieties, etc.); and Tracing the
Evolution of Particular Types of Plants (the Cultivated
Strawberry, Battle of the Plums, Grapes, Progress of the
Carnation, Petunia, The Garden Tomato, etc.).

THE EVOLUTION OF OUR NATIVE FRUITS. By L. H. BAILEY, Professor of Horticulture in the Cornell University.

472 PAGES--125 ILLUSTRATIONS--$2.00

In this entertaining volume, the origin and development of the fruits peculiar to North America are inquired into, and the personality of those horticultural pioneers whose almost forgotten labors have given us our most valuable fruits is touched upon. There has been careful research into the history of the various fruits, including inspection of the records of the great European botanists who have given attention to American economic botany. The conclusions reached, the information presented, and the suggestions as to future developments, cannot but be valuable to any thoughtful fruit-grower, while the terse style of the author is at its best in his treatment of the subject.

THE EVOLUTION OF OUR NATIVE FRUITS discusses The Rise of the
American Grape (North America a Natural Vineland, Attempts to
Cultivate the European Grape, The Experiments of the Dufours,
The Branch of Promise, John Adlum and the Catawba, Rise of
Commercial Viticulture, Why Did the Early Vine Experiments
Fail? Synopsis of the American Grapes); The Strange History of
the Mulberries (The Early Silk Industry, The "Multicaulis
Craze,"); Evolution of American Plums and Cherries (Native
Plums in General, The Chickasaw, Hortulana, Marianna and Beach
Plum Groups, Pacific Coast Plum, Various Other Types of Plums,
Native Cherries, Dwarf Cherry Group); Native Apples
(Indigenous Species, Amelioration has begun); Origin of
American Raspberry-growing (Early American History, Present
Types, Outlying Types); Evolution of Blackberry and Dewberry
Culture (The High-bush Blackberry and Its Kin, The Dewberries,
Botanical Names); Various Types of Berry-like Fruits (The
Gooseberry, Native Currants, Juneberry, Buffalo Berry,
Elderberry, High-bush Cranberry, Cranberry, Strawberry);
Various Types of Tree Fruits (Persimmon, Custard-Apple Tribe,
Thorn-Apples, Nut-Fruits); General Remarks on the Improvement
of our Native Fruits (What Has Been Done, What Probably Should
Be Done).

LESSONS WITH PLANTS: Suggestions for Seeing and Interpreting Some of the Common Forms of Vegetation. By L. H. BAILEY, Professor of Horticulture in the Cornell University, with delineations from nature by W. S. HOLDSWORTH, of the Agricultural College of Michigan.

SECOND EDITION--491 PAGES--446 ILLUSTRATIONS--12 MO--CLOTH--$1.10 NET

There are two ways of looking at nature. The _old way_, which you have found so unsatisfactory, was to classify everything--to consider leaves, roots, and whole plants as formal herbarium specimens, forgetting that each had its own story of growth and development, struggle and success, to tell. Nothing stifles a natural love for plants more effectually than that old way.

The new way is to watch the life of every growing thing, to look upon each plant as a living creature, whose life is a story as fascinating as the story of any favorite hero. "Lessons with Plants" is a book of stories, or rather, a book of plays, for we can see each chapter acted out if we take the trouble to _look_ at the actors.

"I have spent some time in most delightful examination of it,
and the longer I look, the better I like it. I find it not
only full of interest, but eminently suggestive. I know of no
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contained in simple plant forms. Above all else, it seems to
be full of suggestions that help one to learn the language of
plants, so they may talk to him."--DARWIN L. BARDWELL,
_Superintendent of Schools, Binghamton_.

"It is an admirable book, and cannot fail both to awaken
interest in the subject, and to serve as a helpful and
reliable guide to young students of plant life. It will, I
think, fill an important place in secondary schools, and comes
at an opportune time, when helps of this kind are needed and
eagerly sought."--Professor V. M. SPALDING, _University of
Michigan_.

FIRST LESSONS WITH PLANTS

An Abridgement of the above. 117 PAGES--116 ILLUSTRATIONS--40 CENTS NET.

BOTANY: An Elementary Text for Schools. By L. H. BAILEY.

355 PAGES--500 ILLUSTRATIONS--$1.10 NET

"This book is made for the pupil: 'Lessons With Plants' was made to supplement the work of the teacher." This is the opening sentence of the preface, showing that the book is a companion to "Lessons With Plants," which has now become a standard teacher's book. The present book is the handsomest elementary botanical text-book yet made. The illustrations illustrate. They are artistic. The old formal and unnatural Botany is being rapidly outgrown. The book disparages mere laboratory work of the old kind: the pupil is taught to see things as they grow and behave. The pupil who goes through this book will understand the meaning of the plants which he sees day by day. It is a revolt from the dry-as-dust teaching of botany. It cares little for science for science's sake, but its point of view is nature-study in its best sense. The book is divided into four parts, any or all of which may be used in the school: the plant itself; the plant in its environment; histology, or the minute structure of plants; the kinds of plants (with a key, and descriptions of 300 common species). The introduction contains advice to teachers. The book is brand new from start to finish.

"An exceedingly attractive text-book."--_Educational Review._

"It is a school book of the modern methods."--_The Dial._

"It would be hard to find a better manual for schools or for
individual use."--_The Outlook._

***

THE MACMILLAN COMPANY
No. 66 Fifth Avenue NEW YORK

THE CYCLOPEDIA OF AMERICAN HORTICULTURE: By L. H. BAILEY, of Cornell University, assisted by WILHELM MILLER, and many expert cultivators and botanists.

4 VOLS.--OVER 2800 ORIGINAL ENGRAVINGS--CLOTH--OCTAVO $20.00 NET PER SET. HALF MOROCCO, $32.00 NET PER SET

This great work comprises directions for the cultivation of horticultural crops and original descriptions of all the species of fruits, vegetables, flowers and ornamental plants known to be in the market in the United States and Canada. "It has the unique distinction of presenting for the first time, in a carefully arranged and perfectly accessible form, the best knowledge of the best specialists in America upon gardening, fruit-growing, vegetable culture, forestry, and the like, as well as exact botanical information.... The contributors are eminent cultivators or specialists, and the arrangement is very systematic, clear and convenient for ready reference."

"We have here a work which every ambitions gardener will wish
to place on his shelf beside his Nicholson and his Loudon, and
for such users of it a too advanced nomenclature would have
been confusing to the last degree. With the safe names here
given, there is little liability to serious perplexity. There
is a growing impatience with much of the controversy
concerning revision of names of organisms, whether of plants
or animals. Those investigators who are busied with the
ecological aspects of organisms, and also those who are
chiefly concerned with the application of plants to the arts
of agriculture, horticulture, and so on, care for the names of
organisms under examination only so far as these aid in
recognition and identification. To introduce unnecessary
confusion is a serious blunder. Professor Bailey has avoided
the risk of confusion. In short, in range, treatment and
editing, the Cyclopedia appears to be emphatically useful; ...
a work worthy of ranking by the side of the Century
Dictionary."--_The Nation._

THIS WORK IS SOLD ONLY BY SUBSCRIPTION, AND TERMS AND FURTHER INFORMATION MAY BE HAD OF THE PUBLISHERS.

THE MACMILLAN COMPANY
No. 66 Fifth Avenue NEW YORK

Transcriber's Note:

Extra, missing, or misprinted punctuation has been corrected without note. Variation in hyphenation (e.g. house plants vs. house-plants), and capitalization in some botanical names has been left as in the original.

In the ASCII version, the degree symbol has been replaced with "deg." Hyphens have been added to numbers with fractions (e.g. one and one half is 1-1/2), and hyphens indicating a range of heights were changed to the word "to" in the following passages: grow 1 to 2-1/2 ft. high (p. 5); Grow 1-1/2 to 2 ft. high (p. 52); should stand 1-1/2 to 2 ft. apart (p. 56); 1-1/2 to 2-1/2 ft. high (p. 74). Accents and ligatures have also been removed.

The following changes were also made to the text:

p. 9: couservatory to conservatory

p. 12: Burridgianum to Burridgeanum (Cosmidium Burridgeanum)

p. 13: autumnale to autumnalis (Adonis autumnalis.)

p. 23: herbacous to herbaceous

p. 41: Beaume to Baume (26 deg. Baume)

p. 55: batchelor's to bachelor's (bachelor's buttons)

p. 56: Callirhoe to Callirrhoe

p. 89: rocommended to recommended (the treatment recommended for Crocus)

p. 122: establishd to established (when well established)

p. 132: 80, deg. to 80 deg., (begins to fall below 80 deg.,)

p. 133: witholding to withholding (gradually withholding water)

p. 207: seed to seeds (six seeds in each hill)

p. 233: ipomeas to ipomoeas and Ipomea to Ipomoea

p. 233: Cobea to Cobaea

Advertisements (end of book): science' to science's (science for science's sake), and the repeated headings "WORKS BY PROFESSOR BAILEY" removed.

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