Chapter VII (10)

TO MAKE GLUE THAT WILL RESIST MOISTURE.—Dissolve gum sandarac and mastic, of each two ounces, in a pint of spirit of wine, adding about an ounce of clear turpentine. Then take equal parts of isinglass and parchment glue, and having beaten the isinglass into small bits, and reduced the glue to the same state, pour the solution of the gums upon them, and melt the whole in a vessel well covered, avoiding so great a heat as that of boiling water. When melted, strain the glue through a coarse linen cloth, and then put it again over the fire, adding about an ounce of powdered glass. This preparation may be best managed by hanging the vessel in boiling water, which will prevent the matter burning the vessel, or the spirit of wine from taking fire; and, indeed, it is better to use the same method for all the evaporations of nicer glues and sizes; but in such cases, less water than the proportion directed should be added to the materials.—J. M.

CEMENT FOR IRON KITCHEN UTENSILS.—Take six parts of potter’s clay, and one part of steel filings, mix them together with a sufficient quantity of linseed oil to make a thick paste of the consistence of glazier’s putty; then apply it to the cracked parts, on both sides, and let it stand three or four weeks undisturbed.

JAPANESE CEMENT.—This cement is made by mixing rice flour intimately with cold water, and then gently boiling it; it is beautifully white, and dries almost transparent. Papers pasted together by means of this cement, will sooner separate in their own substance than at the joining.

RICE GLUE.—Mix rice flour intimately with cold water, and gently simmer over a fire, when it forms a delicate and durable cement, answering all the purposes of common paste, and admirably adapted for joining paper, card, &c., in forming the various ornaments which afford employment and amusement to the ladies. When made of the consistence of plaster or clay, models, busts, &c., may be formed; and the articles, when dry, are susceptible of high polish, and are very durable.—W. C. C.

TO MEND BROKEN GLASS.—Get some cloves of garlic, tie them in a rag, and place them in a tin pan, pounding them with a hammer, to get out the juice. Next take the broken glass, and wet and smear each of the broken edges with the garlic-juice; then stick them firmly together, stand the article on a plate, and let it remain undisturbed for a fortnight. The broken lid of a pitcher can also be mended in this manner.—J. W.

ANOTHER METHOD OF UNITING BROKEN GLASS OR CHINA.—T. S. L. N. communicates the following, which he has tried with great success:—Obtain some slaked lime, and put it in a small muslin bag; next get the white of an egg; rub the pieces that require mending with it, then dust some lime upon it, and hold together till it sticks; let it dry, and it will not be liable to be softened by heat.

CEMENT FOR CHINA, GLASS, ETC.—To a quarter of an ounce of gum mastic, add as much spirits of wine as will dissolve it. Soak a quarter of an ounce of isinglass in water till it is quite soft; then dissolve it in rum or brandy till of the consistency of glue. To this add one drachm of gum ammoniac, well rubbed and mixed. Put now the two mixtures together in a vessel, over a gentle heat, till properly united, and the cement is ready for use. It should be kept in a phial well corked, and when about to be used, to be set in boiling water to soften.

RECEIPT FOR JOINING GLASS.—Melt a little isinglass in spirits of wine, and add a small quantity of water; warm the mixture gently over a moderate fire. When mixed by thoroughly melting, it will form glue perfectly transparent, which will re-unite broken glass so nicely and firmly, that the joining will scarcely be perceptible to the most critical eye. Lime, mixed with the white of an egg, forms a very strong cement for glass, porcelain, &c., but it must be done neatly, as, when hard, the superfluous part cannot easily be smoothed or taken off.—_Scientific American._

HOW TO MAKE NICE CANDLES.—Candlewick, if steeped in lime and saltpetre, and dried in the sun, will give a clearer light, and be less apt to run. Good candles may be made thus: Melt together ten ounces of mutton tallow, a quarter of an ounce of camphor, four ounces of bees’ wax, and two ounces of alum; then run it into moulds, or dip the candles. These candles furnish a beautiful light.—T. L.

PLAIN HINTS ABOUT CANDLES.—Candles improve by keeping a few months. Those made in winter are the best. The most economical, as well as the most convenient plan, is to purchase them by the box, keeping them always in a cool dry place. If wax candles become discoloured or soiled, they may be restored by rubbing them over with a clean flannel slightly dipped in spirits of wine. Candles are sometimes difficult to light. They will ignite instantly if, when preparing them for the evening, you dip the top in spirits of wine, shortly before they are wanted. Light them always with a match, and do not hold them to the fire, as that will cause the tops to melt and drip. Always hold the match to the side of the wick, and not over the top. If you find the candles too small for the candlesticks, always wrap a small piece of white paper round the bottom end, not allowing the paper to appear above the socket. Cut the wicks to a convenient length for lighting (nearly close); for if the wick is too long at the top, it will be very difficult to ignite, and will also bend down, and set the candle to running. Glass receivers, for the droppings of candles, are very convenient, as well as ornamental. The pieces of candles that are left each evening, should be placed in a tin box kept for that purpose, and used for bed-lights.

CHIMNEYS ON FIRE may be readily extinguished in several ways, without having recourse to throwing water down them from the top, by which much damage is frequently done to the furniture in the rooms. One of the simplest methods is, to scatter a handful of flour of sulphur over the dullest part of the burning coals, the mephitic vapours arising from which will not support combustion, and consequently extinguish the flames. Another method is to shut the doors and windows, and to stop up the bottom of the chimney with a piece of wet carpet or blanket, throwing a little water or flour of sulphur, or salt, on the fire immediately before doing so. By this means the draught is stopped, and the burning soot must be extinguished for want of air. If the chimney be stopped at top, instead of the bottom, the whole of the smoke must, of course, be driven into the apartment. If every fire-place were provided with a damper or shutter, of sheet-iron or tin-plate, sufficiently large to choke it thoroughly, fires in chimneys would become of little consequence, as it would only be necessary to apply this damper to put them out.

CURE FOR SMOKY CHIMNEYS.—“Some of your readers, Mr. Editor, may probably like to know how I have cured, in my own house, that worst of evils—a smoky chimney. The following is the plan I recommend: Inflate a large ox bladder with air, and tie it by the neck to the middle of a stick, which place across the inside of a chimney, about two feet from the top, or at the foot of the chimney-pot. The buoyancy of the air keeps the bladder continually in a circular motion, and thus prevents the rush of air into the tunnel from descending so low as the fire-place.”—S. W. T.

EXCELLENT DYES.—A decoction of oak-bark dyes wool a fast brown of various shades, according to the quantity employed; an infusion of walnut-peels will also dye brown. The wool should be previously dipped in a solution of alum and water, which brightens the colour.—For red dye: boil in a bath of madder, previously rinsing the goods in alum; or, if you wish for purple, employ, instead of alum, a bath of acetate of iron. Red dyes are also given by archil, cochineal, Brazil-wood, &c.—For blue dye: boil in a bath of logwood, to which a small quantity of blue vitriol has been added, using the alum bath as in the other cases.—M. C.

TO DYE SILK LILAC.—For every pound of silk, take a pound and a half of archil, mix it well with the liquor; make it boil a quarter of an hour, dip the silk quickly, then let it cool, and wash it in river water, and a fine half violet, or lilac, more or less full, will be obtained.

DYES FOR IVORY.—_Black._ Immerse the ivory in a boiling solution of logwood, take it out and wash it in a solution of copperas. _Blue._ Immerse the ivory in a mixture of sulphate of indigo and water, partly neutralized with potash. _Green._ Steep blued ivory in a solution of nitro-muriate of tin, and then in a decoction of fustic; or it may be at once dyed green by steeping it in a solution of acetate of copper. _Yellow._ Steep the ivory in a bath of neutral chromate of potash, and afterwards in a boiling solution of acetate of lead. _Red._ Steep the ivory for a short time in a solution of tin, then in a decoction of Brazil or cochineal. _Violet._ Moisten the ivory with a solution of tin, as before, then immerse it in a decoction of logwood.—T. S.

TO DYE HAIR AND FEATHERS GREEN.—Take of verdigris or verditer of each one ounce, gum water one pint; mix them well, and dip the hair or feathers into the mixture, shaking them well about.

TO SHRINK NEW FLANNEL.—New flannel should always be shrunk or washed before it is made up, that it may be cut out more accurately, and that the grease which is used in manufacturing it may be extracted. First, cut off the list along the selvage edges of the whole piece. Then put it into warm (not boiling) water, without soap. Begin at one end of the piece, and rub it with both hands till you come to the other end; this is to get out the grease and the blue with which new white flannel is always tinged. Then do the same through another water. Rinse it through a clean lukewarm water; wring it lengthways, and stretch it well. In hanging it out on a line do not suspend it in festoons, but spread it along the line straight and lengthways. If dried in festoons, the edges will be in great scollops, making it very difficult to cut out. It must be dried in the sun. When dry let it be stretched even, clapped with the hands, and rolled up tight and smoothly, till wanted.—H. S. C.

TO PACK GLASS OR CHINA.—Procure some soft straw or hay to pack them in, and if they are to be sent a long way, and are heavy, the hay or straw should be a little damp, which will prevent them slipping about. Let the largest and heaviest things be always put undermost in the box or hamper. Let there be plenty of straw, and pack the articles tight; but never attempt to pack up glass or china which is of much consequence, till it has been seen done by some one used to the job. The expense will be but trifling to have a person to do it who understands it, and the loss may be great if articles of such value are packed up in an improper manner.—S.

INK.—H. W. begs to recommend the following ink—with which his note is written: Logwood and galls, each four ounces; copperas, two ounces; gum arabic, one ounce; pomegranate bark, half an ounce; cloves, four ounces; cold soft water, two pints: stir frequently, for two weeks or more, and strain.—[The ink is good.—ED.]

BLACK INK.—To one gallon of soft water, add ten ounces of Aleppo galls, and four ounces each of gum arabic and green copperas. Well bruise the galls, and allow the mixture to stand for a fortnight, being well stirred every day. Then add two ounces of white sugar.

BLUE INK.—Prussiate of iron, half an ounce; oxalic acid, one ounce; fine chalk, a quarter of a drachm. All to be powdered, and dissolved with one pint of boiling water.—S.

TO MAKE BLUE INK.—Dissolve a small quantity of indigo in a little oil of vitriol, and add a sufficient quantity of water, in which is dissolved some gum arabic.

INDIAN INK.—Indian ink, equal in quality to that imported from China, may be made by holding a plate over the flame of a lamp or candle so as to receive the fine soot, and mixing this with size made from parchment or uncoloured leather. The Indian ink is made from fine lamp-black and size, with the addition of a little perfume, which latter is by no means essential to its quality as an ink.—J. W.

INDELIBLE MARKING INK, WITHOUT PREPARATION.—One drachm and a half of nitrate of silver (lunar caustic), one ounce of distilled water, half an ounce of strong mucilage of gum arabic, three-quarters of a drachm of liquid ammonia; mix the above in a clean glass bottle, cork tightly and keep in a dark place till dissolved, and ever afterwards. Directions for use:—Shake the bottle, then dip a clean quill pen in the ink, and write or draw what you require on the article; immediately hold it close to the fire (without scorching), or pass a hot iron over it, and it will become a deep and indelible black, indestructible by either time or acids of any description.—R. S.

INCORRODIBLE AND INDELIBLE INKS.—Genuine asphaltum, one part; oil of turpentine, four parts; dissolve, and add lamp-black or black-lead to bring it to a proper consistence. _Or_—Asphaltum, one part; oil of turpentine, four parts; dissolve, and colour with printer’s ink, which any printer will sell by way of favour. These inks supply a cheap and excellent material for marking linen, &c. They are very permanent. They should be employed with stamps or types, or with the thin brass plates with letters cut therein. This method of marking is neater and easier than with the brush or pen.

SYMPATHETIC INKS.—These are preparations used for writing on paper, the marks of which are invisible until acted upon by some re-agent. They are frequently employed in secret or playful correspondence. By heating the paper until it is nearly scorched, they may be rendered visible.

1. Sulphate of copper and sal-ammoniac, equal parts, dissolved in water—writes colourless, but turns yellow when heated.

2. Onion juice, like the last.

3. A weak infusion of galls—turns black when moistened with weak copperas water.

4. A weak solution of sulphate of iron—turns blue when moistened with a weak solution of prussiate of potash—black with infusion of galls.

5. The diluted solutions of nitrate of silver and terchloride of gold—darken when exposed to the sun-light.

6. Aqua-fortis, spirits of salts, oil of vitriol, common salt, or saltpetre, dissolved in a large quantity of water—turn yellow or brown when heated.

7. Solution of nitro-muriate of cobalt—turns green when heated, and disappears again on cooling.

8. Solution of acetate of cobalt, to which a little nitre has been added—becomes rose-coloured when heated, and disappears when cooling.

STAINS OF WOOD.—The most effectual way of removing stains of most descriptions from wood, is to mix a quarter of an ounce of oil of vitriol with two ounces of water, and rub the stained surface with a cork dipped in this liquid, until the stains disappear: then wash with cold water. The colour of the wood is rendered pale for a time by this method, but it is brought up again by rubbing with furniture paste.

TO TAKE OIL AND GREASE OUT OF BOARDS, MARBLE, ETC.—Make a paste with fuller’s earth and hot water; cover the spots therewith, let it dry on, and the next day scour it off with soft or yellow soap. _Or_—Make a paste with soft soap, fuller’s earth, and a little pearlash, and use it as above.

FOR CLEANING WAINSCOTS AND OTHER PAINTED WOODS.—Four ounces of potass, and four ounces of powdered quick-lime are to be mixed together, and boiled for half an hour in three quarts of water; this mixture is to stand until it is cold and quite clear; the clear liquid is then poured off, and a painter’s brush dipped into it is to be passed over the surface of the wood, in the same way as for painting, immediately afterwards washing with cold water. This mode of cleaning will frequently render a new coat of paint unnecessary, and it has the advantage of being destructive to the eggs of insects which may be deposited in the interstices of the wood; where there is reason to suspect that there are bugs in the wood, it may be well, as an additional precaution, to add to the mixture two drachms of corrosive sublimate.

CHAIRS.—The black leather-work of chairs, settees, &c., may be restored by first well washing off the dirt with a little warm water and soap, and afterwards with clean water. The brown and faded portions may now be re-stained by means of a little black ink, or preferably black reviver, and when this has got thoroughly dry, they may be touched over with white of egg, strained and mixed with a little sugar-candy. When the latter is nearly dry, it should be polished off with a clean dry brush.

WASHING-PAINT.—The best method to wash paint is to rub some Bath brick fine, and when you have rubbed some soap on the flannel, dip it in the brick. This will remove the grease and dirt speedily, without injury.—Mrs. H.

TO MAKE OAK WOOD COLOUR.—The basis of this colour is still formed of ceruse. Three-fourths of this oxide, and a fourth of ochre de rue, umber earth, and yellow de Berri; the last three ingredients being employed in proportions which lead to the required tint, give a matter equally proper for distemper, varnish, and oil.—A. S.

TO GIVE A FINE COLOUR TO MAHOGANY.—Into a pint of cold-drawn linseed oil put one ounce of alkanet root, and one ounce of rose-pink in an earthen vessel; let it remain all night; then stirring it well, rub some of it over the tables with a linen rag; when it has lain some time rub it with a linen cloth.—R. M.

ARTIFICIAL MAHOGANY.—The following method of giving any species of wood of a close grain the appearance of mahogany in texture, density, and polish, is said to be practised in France with success. The surface is planed smooth, and the wood is then rubbed with a solution of nitrous acid; one ounce of dragon’s blood is dissolved in nearly a pint of spirits of wine; this, and one-third of an ounce of carbonate of soda, are then to be mixed together and filtered, and the liquid in this thin state is to be laid on with a soft brush. This process is to be repeated, and in a short interval afterwards the wood possesses the external appearance of mahogany. When the polish diminishes in brilliancy, it may be restored by the use of a little cold-drawn linseed oil.—J. R. C.

TO EXTRACT INK FROM MAHOGANY.—Dilute half a tea-spoonful of oil of vitriol with a large spoonful of water, and apply to the ink spot with a feather; let it lie for a few minutes and rub it off quickly; repeat if not quite removed. An excellent receipt.—F.

TO RESTORE THE COLOUR TO MAHOGANY.—Wash well with soap and water, and then polish daily with the following oil:—Take half an ounce of alkanet root, cut small, and add to a pint of linseed oil: when this has stood for a week, add half an ounce of powdered gum arabic, and an ounce of shell-lac varnish; let these stand in a bottle by the fire for a week, then strain. Rub well in.

WAX FOR POLISHING FURNITURE.—Melt bees’ wax in spirits of turpentine, with a very small proportion of resin. When it is entirely dissolved, dip in it a sponge, and wash the mahogany lightly over with it. Immediately afterwards, rub it off with a clean soft cloth. For carved furniture, spread the mixture on with a small soft brush, and rub it off with another brush, a very little harder.

CREAM POLISH FOR FURNITURE.—Half an ounce of Castile soap, dissolved in one gill of rain water, two ounces and a half of bees’ wax, one ounce of white wax, one gill of spirit of turpentine; shred the wax, and place the whole by the fire to dissolve; whilst warm add the soap and mix all well together.—J. H. D.

METHOD OF GIVING A FINE BLACK COLOUR TO WOOD.—Steep the wood for two or three days in lukewarm water, in which a little alum has been dissolved; then put a handful of logwood, cut small into a pint of water, and boil it down to less than half a pint. If you then add a little indigo, the colour will be more beautiful. Spread a layer of this liquor quite hot on your wood, with a pencil, which will give it a violet colour. When it is dry, spread on another layer; dry it again, and give it a third; then boil verdigris at discretion, in its own vinegar, and spread a layer of it on the wood; when it is dry, rub it with a brush, and then with oiled chamois skin. This gives a fine black, and imitates perfectly the colour of ebony. Having tried this receipt successfully, I can recommend it to the notice of your numerous readers.—E.

BLACK DYE FOR WOODS, VENEERS, ETC.—Steep the wood for two or three days, in water, if possible, keeping it warm all the time, the water having had a little alum dissolved in it so that it tastes rough; then put a handful of logwood, cut small, into a pint of water and boil it down to less than half a pint; if a little indigo is added the colour will be more beautiful. Spread a layer of this liquor quite hot on the wood with a brush, which will give it a violet colour. When dry spread on another layer, dry it again and give it a third, then boil verdigris at discretion in vinegar, and spread a layer of it on the wood; when it is dry, rub with a brush, and then with oiled chamois skin. This forms a good imitation of ebony wood.—W. C.

HINTS ON SCRUBBING FLOORS.—After the white-washing, paint-cleaning, and window-washing of each room has been completed, let the floor be scrubbed; first seeing that it has been well swept. For this purpose have a small tub or bucket of warm water: an old saucer to hold a piece of brown soap, a large thick tow-linen floor-cloth, and a long-handled scrubbing-brush. Dip the whole of the floor-cloth into the water, and with it wet a portion of the floor. Next, rub some soap on the bristles of the brush, and scrub hard all over the wet place. Then dip your cloth into the water, and with it wash the suds off the floor. Wring the cloth, wet it again, and wipe the floor with it a second time. Lastly, wash the cloth about in the water, wring it as dry as possible, and give the floor a last and hard wiping with it. Afterwards go on to the next part of the floor, wet it, scrub it, wipe it three times, and proceed in the same manner, a piece, at a time, till you have gone over the whole; changing the dirty water for clean, whenever you find it necessary. For a large room, fresh warm water will be required four or five times in the course of the scrubbing. When the floor has been scrubbed, leave the sashes raised while it is drying. For scouring common floors that are very dirty, have by you an old tin pan with some gray sand in it; and after soaping the brush, rub it on some sand also.

OIL-CLOTHS.—In buying an oil-cloth for a floor, endeavour to obtain one that was manufactured several years before; as the longer it has been made previous to use, the better it will wear, from the paint becoming hard and durable. An oil-cloth that has been made within the year, is scarcely worth buying, as the paint will be defaced in a very little time, it requiring a long while to season. An oil-cloth should never be scrubbed with a brush; but, after being first swept, it should be cleaned by washing with a large soft cloth and lukewarm or cold water. On no account use soap, or take water that is _hot_; as either of them will certainly bring off the paint. When it has dried, you may sponge it over with milk, which will brighten and preserve the colours; and then wipe it with a soft dry cloth.—J. R.

TO RENOVATE BLACK SILK.—Slice some uncooked potatoes, pour boiling water on them; when cold sponge the right side of the silk with it, and iron on the wrong.—E. H.

TO MAKE OLD SILK GOWNS LOOK LIKE NEW.—The best method, and one that is employed by milliners, is to sponge over the outside of the dress with a strong and cold infusion of black tea. The dress should afterwards be ironed on the wrong side.—K.

AN EXCELLENT YELLOW DYE FOR SILKS, RIBBONS, ETC.—Take a large handful of horse-radish leaves, boil them in two quarts of water for half an hour; then drain it off from the leaves, and soak the articles you have for dyeing in it; when you think the colour deep enough, take it out, rinse it in cold water, and spread it to dry.—B. B.

TO IRON SILK.—Silk cannot be ironed smoothly, so as to press out all the creases, without first sprinkling it with water, and rolling it up tightly in a towel, letting it rest for an hour or two. If the iron is in the least too hot, it will injure the colour, and it should first be tried on an old piece of the same silk.—C. C.

TO RENOVATE SILKS.—Sponge faded silks with warm water and soap; then rub them with a dry cloth on a flat board; afterwards iron them on the _inside_ with a smoothing-iron. Old black silks may be improved by sponging with spirits. In this case, the ironing may be done on the right side, thin paper being spread over to prevent glazing.

TO DYE SILK, ETC., CRIMSON.—Take about a spoonful of cutbear, put it into a small pan, pour boiling water upon it; stir and let it stand a few minutes, then put in the silk, and turn it over in a short time, and when the colour is full enough, take it out; but if it should require more violet or crimson, add a spoonful or two of purple archil to some warm water; steep, and dry it within doors. To finish it, it must be mangled, and ought to be pressed.

SILKS STAINED BY CORROSIVE OR SHARP LIQUORS.—We often find that lemon-juice, vinegar, oil of vitriol, and other sharp corrosives, stain dyed garments; sometimes by adding a little pearlash to a soap lather, and passing the silks through these, the faded colour will be restored. Pearlash and warm water will sometimes do alone, but it is the most efficacious method to use the soap lather and pearlash together.

CHEMICAL RENOVATING BALLS—for taking out grease, paint, pitch tar, from silks, stuffs, linen, woollen, carpets, hats, coats, &c., without fading the colour or injuring the cloth:—Quarter ounce of fuller’s earth, quarter ounce of pipe-clay, one ounce salt of tartar, one ounce beef gall, one ounce spirits of wine. Pound the hard parts, and mix the ingredients well together. Wet the stain with cold water, rub it well with this ball, then sponge it with a wet sponge, and the stain will disappear.

TO CLEAN SILKS, SATINS, COLOURED WOOLLEN DRESSES, ETC.—Quarter pound of soft soap, a quarter of a pound of honey, the white of an egg, and a wine-glassful of gin; mix well together, and the article to be scoured with a rather hard brush thoroughly, afterwards rinse it in cold water, leave to drain, and iron whilst quite damp.—Mrs. J. D. R. remarks that she finds this receipt an excellent one, having used it for a length of time, and recommended it to friends, with perfect success.

TO CLEAN WHITE SATIN AND FLOWERED SILKS.—1. Mix sifted stale bread crumbs with powder blue, and rub it thoroughly all over, then shake it well, and dust it with clean soft cloths. Afterwards, where there are any gold or silver flowers, take a piece of crimson ingrain velvet, rub the flowers with it, which will restore them to their original lustre.—2. Pass them through a solution of fine hard soap, at a hand heat, drawing them through the hand. Rinse in lukewarm water, dry and finish by pinning out. Brush the flossy or bright side with a clean clothes-brush, the way of the nap. Finish them by dipping a sponge into a size, made by boiling isinglass in water, and rub the wrong side. Rinse out a second time, and brush, and dry near a fire, or in a warm room. Silks may be treated in the same way, but not brushed.—M.

TO SMOOTH A CREASED OR RUMPLED RIBBON.—Lay the ribbon evenly on a clean table or board, and, with a very clean sponge, damp it all over, missing no part. Next, roll it, smoothly and tightly, on a ribbon-block that is wider than the ribbon, and let it remain till dry. Afterwards, transfer it to a fresh block (which must be perfectly dry), rolling it round that. Wrap it up closely in coarse _brown_ paper, and keep it thus till you want to use it. Ironing a ribbon is apt to discolour it, and give it a faded look even when new. Ribbons, and other silks, should always be put away in coarse brown paper; the chloride of lime used in manufacturing _white_ paper frequently produces spots and stains. Coarse brown paper, being made of old ropes picked to pieces, the tar still lingering about them, preserves the colours of the silks.—J. T.

TO CLEAN SILK STOCKINGS.—First wash the stockings in the usual manner, to take out the rough dirt. After rinsing them in clean water, wash them well in fresh soap liquor. Then make a third soap liquor, which colour with a little stone-blue; then wash the stockings once more, take them out, wring them, and particularly dry them. Now stove them with brimstone, and draw on a wooden leg two stockings, one upon the other, observing that the two fronts or outsides are face to face. Polish with a glass bottle. The two first liquors should be only lukewarm; but the third as hot as you can bear your hand in. Blondes and gauzes may be whitened in the same manner; but there should be a little gum put in the last liquor before they are stoved.—B. R.

TO KEEP SILK.—Silk articles should not be kept folded in white paper, as the chloride of lime used in bleaching the paper will probably impair the colour of the silk. Brown or blue paper is better—the yellowish smooth India paper is best of all. Silk intended for a dress, should not be kept in the house long before it is made up, as lying in the folds will have a tendency to impair its durability by causing it to cut or split, particularly if the silk has been thickened by gum. We knew an instance of a very elegant and costly thread lace veil being found, on its arrival from France, cut into squares (and, therefore, destroyed) by being folded over a paste-board card. A white satin dress should be pinned up in blue paper, with coarse brown paper outside, sewn together at the edges.—A. F.

TO WASH SILK LACE OR BLONDE.—Take a black bottle, covered with clean linen or muslin, and wind the blonde round it (securing the ends with a needle and thread), not leaving the edge outward, but covering it as you proceed. Set the bottle upright in a strong cold lather of white soap and _very clear_ soft water, and place it in the sun, having gently, with your hand, rubbed the suds up and down on the lace. Keep it in the sun every day for a week, changing the lather daily, and always rubbing it slightly when you renew the suds. At the end of the week, take the blonde off the bottle, and (without rinsing) pin it backward and forward on a large pillow covered with a clean tight case. Every scallop must have a separate pin, or more, if the scallops are not very small. The plain edge must be pinned down also, so as to make it straight and even. The pins should be of the smallest size. When quite dry, take it off; but do not starch, iron, or press it. Lay it in long loose folds, and put it away in a paste-board box. Thread lace may be washed in the same manner.—A. F.

TO WASH RIBBONS, SILK HANDKERCHIEFS, ETC.—None but ribbons of excellent quality, of one entire colour, and of a plain unfigured surface, will bear washing. A good satin ribbon may be made to look very well by washing it carefully, first in cold water, to which add a few drops of spirits of wine; then make a lather of white soap and lukewarm water, and wash the ribbon through that; afterwards rinse it in cold water, pull it even, and dry it gradually. When dry, stretch out the ribbon on an ironing-table (securing it to the cloth by pins), and sponge it evenly all over with a very weak solution of isinglass, that has been boiled in clear water and strained; or, if you have no isinglass, rice-water will be a tolerable substitute for restoring the stiffness and gloss. To iron the ribbon, lay it within a sheet of clean smooth letter paper (the paper being both under and over it), and press it with a heated iron moved quickly. If the colour is lilac, add a little dissolved pearlash to the rinsing water; if green, a little vinegar; if pink, or blue, a few drops of oil of vitriol; if yellow, a little tincture of saffron. Other colours may be set by stirring a tea-spoonful of ox-gall into the first water. If white, a salt-spoonful of cream of tartar, mixed with the soap-suds. It is seldom worth while to take the trouble of washing ribbon, unless you have a tolerable quantity to do. Unfigured silk handkerchiefs and scarfs may be washed and ironed in the above manner. The proportion of spirits of wine is about a table-spoonful to a gallon of water.—M. D.

TO CLEAN GOLD LACE.—Rub it with a soft brush, dipped in roche-alum, burnt and sifted to a very fine powder. I have tried this several times, and always found the lace brightened and improved by the method.—W. J. J.

TO CLEAN BLACK LACE VEILS.—These are cleansed by passing them through a warm liquor of bullock’s gall and water; after which, they must be rinsed in cold water, then cleansed for stiffening, and finished as follows:—Take a small piece of glue, about the size of a bean, pour boiling water upon it, which will dissolve it, and when dissolved, pass the veil through it, then clap it between your hands and frame.

TO WASH A WHITE LACE VEIL.—Put the veil into a strong lather of white soap and very clear water, and let it simmer slowly for a quarter of an hour. Take it out and squeeze it well, but be sure not to rub it. Rinse it in two cold waters, with a drop or two of liquid blue in the last. Have ready some very clear and weak gum arabic water, or some thin starch, or rice-water. Pass the veil through it, and clear it by clapping. Then stretch it out even, and pin it to dry on a linen cloth, making the edge as straight as possible, opening out all the scallops, and fastening each with pins. When dry, lay a piece of thin muslin smoothly over it, and iron it on the wrong side.—M.

TO CLEAN AND STARCH POINT LACE.—Fix the lace in a prepared tent, draw it straight, make a warm lather of Castile soap, and, with a fine brush dipped in, rub over the point gently; and when it is clean on one side, do the same to the other; then throw some clean water on it, in which a little alum has been dissolved, to take off the suds, and, having some thin starch, go over with the same on the wrong side, and iron it on the same side when dry; then open it with a bodkin, and set it in order. To clean point lace, if not very dirty, without washing, fix it in a tent, as previously mentioned, and go over with fine bread, the crust being pared off; and when it is done, dust out the crumbs, &c.—J. H. M.

WASHING LACE.—I have lately used the following method of washing lace, collars, or crochet collars, and find that it not only makes them look well, but saves much of the wear and tear of other washing:—Cover a glass bottle with calico or linen, and then tack the lace or collar smoothly upon it, rub it with soap, and cover it with calico. Boil it for twenty minutes in soft water; let all dry together, and the lace will be found to be ready for use. A long piece of lace must be wound round and round the bottle, the edge of each round a little above the last, and a few stitches to keep it firm at the beginning and end will be found sufficient, but a collar will require more tacking to keep it in its place.—G. N. L.

TO WASH A BLACK LACE VEIL.—Mix bullock’s gall with sufficient hot water to make it as warm as you can bear your hand in. Then pass the veil through it. It must be squeezed, and not rubbed. It will be well to perfume the gall with a little musk. Next, rinse the veil through two cold waters, tingeing the last with indigo. Then dry it. Have ready in a pan some stiffening made by pouring boiling water on a very small piece of glue. Put the veil into it, squeeze it out, stretch it, and clap it. Afterwards, pin it out to dry on a linen cloth, making it very straight and even, and taking care to open and pin the edge very nicely. When dry, iron it on the wrong side, having laid a linen cloth over the ironing-blanket. Any article of black lace may be washed in this manner.

TO CLEAN EMBROIDERY AND GOLD LACE.—For this purpose no alkaline liquors are to be used; for while they clean the gold, they corrode the silk, and change its colour. Soap also alters the shade, and even the species of certain colours. But spirit of wine may be used without any danger of its injuring either colour or quality; and, in many cases, proves as effectual for restoring the lustre of the gold as the corrosive detergents. But, though spirit of wine is the most innocent material employed for this purpose, it is not in all cases proper. The golden covering may be in some parts worn off; or the base metal with which it has been alloyed may be corroded by the air, so as to leave the particles of the gold disunited; while the silver underneath, tarnished to a yellow hue, may continue a tolerable colour to the whole, so it is apparent that the removal of the tarnish would be prejudicial, and make the lace or embroidery less like gold than it was before. It is necessary that care should be taken.—W. J. E.

TO WASH THREAD LACE.—Rip off the lace, carefully pick out the loose bits of thread, and roll the lace very smoothly and securely round a clean black bottle, previously covered with old white linen, sewn tightly on. Tack each end of the lace with a needle and thread, to keep it smooth; and be careful in wrapping not to crumple or fold in any of the scallops or pearlings. After it is on the bottle, take some of the _best_ sweet oil, and with a clean sponge wet the lace thoroughly to the inmost folds. Have ready in a wash-kettle, a strong _cold_ lather of clear water and white Castile soap. Fill the bottle with cold water, to prevent its bursting, cork it well, and stand it upright in the suds, with a string round the neck secured to the ears or handle of the kettle, to prevent its knocking about and breaking while over the fire. Let it boil in the suds for an hour or more, till the lace is clean and white all through. Drain off the suds, and dry it on the bottle in the sun. When dry, remove the lace from the bottle and roll it round a wide ribbon-block; or lay it in long folds, place it within a sheet of smooth white paper, and press it in a large book for a few days.—W. W. C.

FRUIT STAINS IN LINEN.—To remove them, rub the part on each side with yellow soap, then tie up a piece of pearlash in the cloth, &c., and soak well in hot water, or boil; afterwards expose the stained part to the sun and air until removed.—K.

TO TAKE THE MILDEW OUT OF LINEN.—Take soap, and rub it well; then scrape some fine chalk, and rub it also on the linen. Lay it on the grass. As it dries, wet it a little, and it will come out in twice doing.—F. E. W.

TO TAKE OUT IRON-MOULDS FROM LINEN.—Rub the iron-moulds over with sulphuret of potash; then bathe them well in citric acid (lemon acid), and afterwards wash them well in water, and they will be completely restored.

TO BLEACH A FADED DRESS.—Wash the dress in hot suds, and boil it until the colour appears to be gone; then rinse it and dry it in the sun. Should it not be rendered white by these means, lay the dress in the open air, and bleach it for several days. If still not quite white, repeat the boiling.

TO PRESERVE THE COLOUR OF A PRINT DRESS.—The body and train to be separated and washed in cold rain water, into which a handful of common salt has been thrown. Instead of spreading, it should be tightly rolled in a coarse cloth, and allowed to remain until dry enough to iron.—E.

TO RESTORE LINEN THAT HAS LONG BEEN STAINED.—Rub the stains on each side with wet brown soap; mix some starch to a thick paste, with cold water, and spread it over the soaped places; then expose the linen to the air, and if the stains have not disappeared in three or four days, rub off the mixture, and repeat the process with fresh soap and starch. Afterwards dry it, wet it with cold water, and put it in the wash.

TO WASH MOUSSELINE-DE-LAINE.—Boil a pound of rice in five quarts of water, and, when cool enough, wash in this, using the rice for soap. Have another quantity ready, but strain the rice from this and use it with warm water, keeping the rice strained off for a third washing, which at the same time stiffens and also brightens the colours.—W.

TO PREVENT COLOURED THINGS FROM RUNNING.—Boil a quarter of a pound of soap till nearly dissolved, then add a small piece of alum and boil with it. Wash the things in this lather, but do not soap them. If they require a second water, put alum to that also, as well as to the swilling and blue-water. This will preserve them.

STAIN MIXTURE.—Take an ounce of sal-ammoniac (or hartshorn), and an ounce of salt of tartar—mix them well, put them into a pint of soft water, and bottle it for use, keeping it very tightly corked. Pour a little of this liquid into a saucer, and wash in it those parts of a white article that have been stained with ink, mildew, fruit, or red wine. When the stains have by this process been removed, wash the article in the usual manner.—M. C.

TO RESTORE SCORCHED LINEN.—Take two onions, peel and slice them, and extract the juice by squeezing or pounding. Then cut up half an ounce of white soap, and two ounces of fuller’s earth; mix with them the onion juice, and half a pint of vinegar. Boil this composition well, and spread it when cool, over the scorched part of the linen, leaving it to dry thereon. Afterwards wash out the linen.

TO WHITEN LINEN THAT HAS TURNED YELLOW.—Cut up a pound of fine white soap into a gallon of milk, and hang it over the fire in a wash-kettle. When the soap has entirely melted, put in the linen, and boil it half an hour. Then take it out; have ready a lather of soap and warm water; wash the linen in it and then rinse it through two cold waters, with a very little blue in the last.—J. W.

TO TAKE OUT PAINT FROM A DRESS.—After a paint-spot has dried, it is extremely difficult to remove it. When fresh (having wiped off as much as you can), it may be taken out by repeated applications of spirits of turpentine or of spirits of wine, rubbed with a soft rag or a flannel. Ether also will efface it, if applied immediately. If the paint has been allowed to harden, nothing will take it off but spirits of turpentine, rubbed on with perseverance.

TO RENEW SCORCHED OR BROWNED LINEN.—This is an accident attributable entirely to the ignorance of the laundress, in not knowing how to regulate the heat of her irons. To remedy this:—Add to a quart of vinegar, the juice of half a dozen large onions, about an ounce of soap rasped down, a quarter of a pound of fuller’s earth, one ounce of lime, and one ounce of pearlash, or any other strong alkali. Boil the whole until it is pretty thick, and lay some of it on the scorched part, suffering it to dry. It will be found that, on repeating this process for one or two washings, the scorch will be completely removed from the linen without any additional damage; provided its texture has not been absolutely injured, as well as discoloured.—H. W.

TO REMOVE STAINS OF WINE OR FRUIT FROM TABLE-LINEN.—A wine stain may sometimes be removed by rubbing it, while wet, with common salt. It is said, also, that sherry wine poured immediately on a place where port wine has been spilled, will prevent its leaving a stain. A _certain_ way of extracting fruit or wine stains from table-linen is to tie up some cream of tartar in the stained part (so as to form a sort of bag), and then to put the linen into a lather of soap and cold water, and boil it awhile. Then transfer it wet to lukewarm suds, wash and rinse it well, and dry and iron it. The stains will disappear during the process. Another way, is to mix, in equal quantities, soft soap, slaked lime, and pearlash. Rub the stain with this preparation, and expose the linen to the sun with the mixture plastered on it. If necessary, repeat the application. As soon as the stain has disappeared, wash out the linen immediately, as it will be injured if the mixture is left in it.—E. D.

TO WASH CHINTZ.—Many ladies will be glad to know how chintz may be washed so as to preserve its gloss and beauty. The following are the directions:—Take two pounds of rice, and boil it in two gallons of water till soft; when done, pour the whole into a tub: let it stand till about the warmth you in general use for coloured linens; then put the chintz in, and use the rice instead of soap; wash it in this till the dirt appears to be out; then boil the same quantity as above, but strain the rice from the water, and mix it in warm clear water. Wash in this till quite clean; afterwards rinse it in the water you have boiled the rice in, and this will answer the end of starch, and no dew will affect it, as it will be stiff as long as you wear it. If a gown, it must be taken to pieces; and when dried, be careful to hang it as smooth as possible; after it is dry, rub it with a sleek stone, but use no iron.

TO PRESERVE THE COLOUR OF DRESSES.—The colours of merinos, mousselines-de-laine, gingham, chintzes, printed lawns, &c., may be preserved by using water that is only milk-warm; making a lather with white soap, _before_ you put in the dress, instead of rubbing it on the material; and stirring into a first and second tub of water a large table-spoonful of ox-gall. The gall can be obtained from the butcher, and a bottle of it should always be kept in every house. No coloured articles should be allowed to remain long in the water. They must be washed fast, and then rinsed through two cold waters. Into each rinsing water, stir a tea-spoonful of vinegar, which will help to brighten the colours; and after rinsing, hang them out immediately. When _ironing-dry_, (or still a little damp), bring them in; have irons ready heated, and iron them at once, as it injures the colours to allow them to remain damp too long, or to sprinkle and roll them up in a covering for ironing next day. If they cannot be conveniently ironed immediately, let them hang till they are _quite_ dry; and then damp and fold them on the _following day_, a quarter of an hour before ironing. The best way is not to do coloured dresses on the day of the general wash, but to give them a morning by themselves. They should only be undertaken in clear bright weather. If allowed to freeze, the colours will be irreparably injured. We need scarcely say that no coloured articles should ever be boiled or scalded. If you get from a shop a slip for testing the durability of colours, give it a fair trial by washing it as above; afterwards pinning it to the edge of a towel, and hanging it to dry. Some colours, (especially pinks and light greens), though they may stand perfectly well in washing, will change as soon as a warm iron is applied to them; the pink turning purplish, and the green bluish. No coloured article should be smoothed with a _hot_ iron.—A. F. H.

TO PRESERVE FURS.—When laying up muffs and tippets for the summer, if a tallow candle be placed on or near them, all danger of caterpillars will be obviated.

TO CLEAN ERMINE AND MINIVAR FUR.—Take a piece of soft flannel, and rub the fur well with it (but remember that the rubbing must be always against the grain); then rub the fur with common flour until clean. Shake it well, and rub again with the flannel till all the flour is out of it. I have had a Minivar boa for four years. It has never been cleaned with anything but flour, and is not in the least injured by the rubbing. It was a school companion who told me that her aunt (a Russian lady), always cleaned her white furs with flour, and that they looked quite beautiful. It has one advantage—the lining does not require to be taken out, and it only requires a little trouble. Ermine takes longer than Minivar. The latter is very easily done.—A. B.