Chapter VII (17)

_Plate_ should be well cleaned, and have a bright polish; few things look worse than a greasy-looking épergne and streaky spoons. _Glass_ should be well rubbed with a wash-leather, dipped in a solution of fine whiting and stone-blue, and then dried; afterwards it should be polished with an old silk handkerchief. _Plates_ and _dishes_ should be hot, otherwise the guests will be disgusted by seeing flakes of fat floating about in the gravy. _Bread_ should be cut in pieces about an inch thick, and each round of a loaf into six parts; or if for a dinner party, dinner rolls should be ordered. The bread is placed under the napkins, or on the _left_ of each guest; if dinner napkins are not used, some of the bread being placed in a bread-tray, covered with a crochet cloth, upon the sideboard. _Lights_, either at or after the dinner, should be subdued, and above the guests, if possible, so as to be shed upon the table, without intercepting the view. _Sauces_, either bottle, sweet, or boat; _vegetables_, and sliced cucumber, or glazed onions for stubble goose, should be placed upon the sideboard; _a plate basket_, for removing the soiled plates, is usually placed under the sideboard, or some other convenient part of the room; and _two knife-trays_, covered with napkins, are placed upon a butler’s tray; these are used for removing soiled carvers and forks, and the soiled silver. It is useful to have a large-sized bradawl, a corkscrew, and funnel, with strainer; the former to break the wire of the champagne bottles, and the latter to strain port wine, if required to be opened during dinner.

TO LAY OUT THE SIDEBOARD OR TRAY.—Little requires to be done, except to arrange the silver, knives, cruets, and various dishes to be placed there. The silver should be arranged on one end of the sideboard, as in _figs. 1_ and _2_, the gravy-spoons being placed bowl to handle, and the cheese-scoop, marrow-spoon, and salad-spoons or scissors, where most convenient. The knives are placed, as in _fig. 3_, for the convenience of removal, because by this means a single knife can be abstracted without disturbing the others; carving knives and forks should be placed above the others, point to handle. The wine-glasses, tumblers, and finger-glasses, for dessert, are placed where most convenient, but usually in the centre, at the back, with ice-plates near to them, and the wine-glasses placed in the finger-glasses, as in _fig. 4_; but when only one glass is used, that is placed in the centre, mouth downwards. At very large or fashionable dinners, the finger-glasses are sometimes placed on the dinner-table with the plain and coloured wine-glasses in them, and the same, refilled, are placed on again at dessert. The cruets, sauces, &c., are placed at one end, and the vegetables, &c., in the centre front of the sideboard.

TO PLACE THE DISHES ON THE TABLE.—Each servant should be provided, at large dinners, with a bill of fare, and instructed, at small ones, where the dishes are to be placed. No two dishes resembling each other should be near the same part of the table. _Soups_ or broth should always be placed at the head of the table; if there are two, top and bottom; if four, top, bottom, and two sides, opposite each other, or alternately with fish. _Fish_ should be placed at the head of the table; if there are two sorts, have fried at the bottom and boiled at the top; if four, arrange the same as the soup. We may observe, that a white and a brown, or a mild and high-seasoned soup, should occupy either side of the centre-piece, and that it looks handsomer to have fried and boiled fish opposite each other, but they should never be placed upon the same dish. Fish is generally served upon a napkin, the corners of which are either turned in or thrown over the fish, or upon a piece of simple netting, which is turned in all round; but we recommend our readers to use the elegant serviette, as being more stylish.

_The first course_ generally consists of soups and fish, which are removed by the roasts, stews, &c., of the second course.

_The second course_, when there are three, consists of roasts and stews for the top and bottom; turkey or fowls, ham garnished, tongue, or fricandeau, for the sides; with small made-dishes for corners, served in covered dishes, as curries, ragouts, fricassees, stews, palates, &c.

When there are two roasts, one should be white, and the other brown. Removes are generally placed upon large dishes, for, as they supply the place of the fish and soups, they constitute the principal part of the dinner. What are termed _flancs_, are not so large as the removes, nor so small as the _entrées_, or made-dishes, and are generally served in a differently formed dish. They are seldom used except when there are eighteen or twenty persons.

_Entrées_, or made-dishes, require great care in placing them upon the table, otherwise the gravy slops over and soils the dish; they are, therefore, usually served with a wall of mashed potatoes, rice, or other vegetables, to keep them in their proper place. They should also be served as hot as possible.

When there is but one principal dish, it should be placed at the head of the table. If three dishes, the principal to the head, and the others opposite each other, near the bottom; if four, the largest to the head, the next size to the foot, and the other two at the sides; if five, place the same as for four, with the smallest in the centre; if six, place the same as for four, with two small dishes on each side; if seven, put three dishes down the centre of the table, and two on each side; if eight, four dishes down the middle, and two on each side, at equal distances; if nine, place them in three equal lines, but with the proper dishes at the top and bottom of the table; if ten, put four down the centre, one at each corner, and one on each side, opposite the vacancy between the two central dishes; or four down the middle, and three on each side, opposite the vacancies of the centre dishes; if twelve, place them in three rows of four each, or six down the middle, and three at equal distances on each side. If more than twelve, they must be arranged on the same principles, but varying according to number.

Oval or circular dining-tables require to have the dishes arranged in a shape corresponding to the table.

_The third course_ consists of game, confectionery, delicate vegetables dressed in the French style, puddings, creams, jellies, &c.

_When there are only two courses_, the first generally consists of soups and fish, removed by boiled poultry, ham, tongue, stews, roasts, ragouts, curries, or made-dishes generally, with vegetables. The second consists of roasted poultry or game at the top and bottom, with dressed vegetables, maccaroni, jellies, creams, preserved fruit, pastry and general confectionery, salads, &c. It is generally contrived to give as great a variety as possible in these dinners: thus—a jelly, a cream, a compôte, an ornamental cake, a dish of preserved fruit, fritters, a blancmange, a pudding, &c.

After the third course has been removed, cheese, ornamented butter, salad, radishes, celery in a glass bowl or on a dish, sliced cucumber (and at small parties, marrow-bones) are usually served. A marrow-spoon, cheese-scoop, and butter-knife, being required upon the table, are to be placed near to the dishes; a knife and fork near the celery, and a pair of salad-scissors or a fork and spoon in the bowl with the salad.

The cheese may be served in a glass bowl, and handed round from right to left; or if a Stilton, surrounded with the elegant serviette, and placed upon the cheese-cloth. The bread may be served as usual, or the cheese snaps, piled up on a crochet cloth, in a plated bread-basket placed in the centre.

WAITING AT TABLE.—Much confusion is avoided by having an attendant upon each side of the table; or, if the party is large, more than one, according to the number. The usual number required for parties is given below; and if the income admit of it, the scale may be increased according to the second column, which will materially add to the comfort of the guests.

_Guests._ _Servants._
6 1 2
12 2 3
15 3 4
20 4 6
30 6 8
40 9 12
50 12 20, &c.

Every attendant should be neatly attired, have a white neckcloth and white gloves on, should know where all the articles required are, where the dishes are to be placed, and, in fact, be acquainted with the whole routine of the party; and, therefore, it is better to provide each one with a bill of fare.

When every guest is seated, a servant appointed for that purpose should stand by the side of each dish, with the right hand upon the cover; and as soon as grace is said, the cover is to be removed and placed in some convenient part of the room. The plates for soup should then be taken singly from the pile opposite the person assisting it, and carried to those guests that desire that particular soup, observing that ladies are to be assisted before gentlemen, and that these should commence from the head of the table, continuing to assist each until both sides are helped.

Soon after the soup has been served, the servants may pass down each side of the table, and ask each guest what they will take, assisting them to the dish desired as soon as it can be procured. When champagne is given, it is handed round upon a waiter or salver at small parties, commencing at the right hand side of the table from the top and bottom simultaneously, without any distinction as regards ladies or gentlemen. In large parties—and we prefer the arrangement ourselves even in small ones—the bottle being enveloped as far as the neck with a clean dinner-napkin, the wine is assisted in the same order as before; but instead of being handed round on a salver, the servants pour the wine into the glass, at the right hand side of each guest. By these means, there is less danger of the glasses being broken by any awkward collision. The champagne is generally iced in summer, and cool in winter, and is assisted as soon as the soup is finished, or just after the guests have been helped to the second course or removes.

Liqueurs are handed round when sweets are on the table. Sauces are handed round in the sauce-boat, and, when served, placed on the sideboard or dinner-waggon; if only a family party, they are returned to the table. Sweet sauces are handed round in glass dishes, and bottle sauces in a stand or basket made for that purpose.

_In removing the dinner-things_, one servant goes round the table with a butler’s tray, and the other removes and places the things upon it. The cloth is then brushed with a crumb-brush; or the two sides are turned in, and then the cloth dexterously jerked off the table, the lights replaced, and the dessert set on.

When knives, forks, and spoons, are removed from dishes or plates, they should be placed in proper trays covered with napkins; one being used for the silver, the other for the steel articles.

When plates or dishes are removed from the table, great care is to be observed with respect to holding them horizontally, otherwise the gravy, syrup, or liquid, may injure the dresses of the guests. We remember well to have seen a clumsy servant let some soup fall over the whole of the back of an officer’s new red coat, which was, of course, completely spoiled!

In some circles, the fashion prevails of placing finger-glasses on table immediately preceding dessert; but in others, especially of the highest fashion, cut-glass bowls, partially filled with rose or orange-flower water, iced in summer and lukewarm in winter, are handed down each side of the table, upon salvers: into these each guest dips the corner of the dinner-napkin, and just touches the lips and the tips of the fingers, to afford a refreshing feeling.

III.

DESSERTS, TEAS, AND SUPPERS.

THE DESSERT.—The dessert may consist of merely two dishes of fruit for the top and bottom; dried fruits, biscuits, filberts, &c., for the sides and corners; and a cake for the centre.

When the party is large, and ices are served, the ice-plates are placed round the table, the ice-pails at both ends of the table, and dishes with wafer-biscuits at the sides. Some persons have the ices served in glass dishes, which, together with the wafer-biscuits, are handed round before the usual dessert.

When there is preserved ginger, it follows the ices, as it serves to stimulate the palate, so that the delicious coolness of the wines may be better appreciated.

The side and corner dishes usually put on for dessert, consist of:—Compôtes in glass dishes; frosted fruit served on lace-paper, in small glass dishes; preserved and dried fruits, in glass dishes; biscuits, plain and fancy; fresh fruit, served in dishes surrounded with leaves or with moss; olives, wafer-biscuits, brandy-scrolls, &c.

The centre dishes may consist either of a savoy or an ornamental cake, on an elevated stand—a group of waxen fruit, surrounded with moss—a melon, a pine-apple, grapes, or a vase of flowers.

Each plate should contain a knife, fork, and spoon, with two wine-glasses, arranged upon a d’oyley, as in _Fig. 5_. These are to be placed before each guest; and a finger-glass, with cold water in summer, and lukewarm water in winter, on the right of each plate; and grape scissors, and melon knife and fork, before their respective dishes. Glass bowls containing sifted sugar, with pierced ladles, or others filled with cream, are to be placed near to the centre dish, if they are required. A cut-glass jug, with a tumbler on either side, should be placed in a convenient part of the centre of the table.

The wine, either cooled or not, should be placed at both ends of the table, or at the bottom, if only a small party, the decanters being placed in casters, though this fashion is now much abolished.

Zests are put down after the dessert is removed, and consist chiefly of anchovy toasts, devilled poultry and game, and biscuits, gravy, toast, grills, &c.

Coffee is the last thing served, and is generally handed round upon a salver; after this, the gentlemen withdraw to the drawing-room.

TEA.—If after a dinner party, the tea is generally handed round by two servants, the one having tea and coffee, with hot milk, cream, and sugar, upon one tray; the other having thinly-cut and rolled bread and butter, biscuits, and cake, upon another tray.

If served at an evening party or dance, a servant assists the guests, as they arrive, to tea or coffee, which is ranged upon a side-table in a small room. The tea and coffee occupy the two ends of the table, on either side of the urn, which is placed in the centre and back. In front of the urn are ranged the sugar-candy for coffee, sugar, hot milk, cream, bread and butter, cake, and biscuits. When the guests have been assisted, they are ushered into the presence of the host and hostess.

Tea, when only for a small party, may be brought in upon a tray, the tea and coffee pots occupying the centre of the tray; the cups and saucers the front; and the hot milk, cream, slop-basin, and sugar, the ends. The urn is placed at the back of the tray; and the bread and butter, cut or not, with cake, biscuits, muffins, crumpets, or toast, at the sides.

SUPPERS.—The great secret of laying out a supper consists in arranging the china, glass, silver, linen, lights, confectionery, substantials, trifles, flowers, and other articles, with a due regard to form, colour, size, and material.

A supper table should neither be too much crowded, nor too scanty, nor scattered and broken up with small dishes. Two dishes of the same description should not be placed near to each other: dishes should not be heaped up as if for a ploughman’s repast, but contain sufficient to make them look well, without being over or under-done as regards quantity.

Hot suppers are now seldom served; for people dine later than they did formerly; and besides being more expensive than cold ones, they also give more trouble.

The centre of the table is generally occupied by an épergne, vase of flowers, globe of fish upon an elevated stand, a plateau, or small fountain; around which are arranged:—Dried, preserved, frosted, or candied fruits; custards, jellies, and trifles, in glasses; and small biscuits. The top and bottom of the table are furnished with game, fowls, or meat; the sides have dishes of ham sliced; tongue, collared, potted, hung, and grated; brawn, mock or real; savoury pies; lobsters; oysters; dressed crab or cray-fish; prawn pyramids; sandwiches of ham, beef, tongue, anchovy, or other savoury morsels; tarts, tartlets; cake, biscuits; whipped and other creams; jellies, blancmange; caramel baskets; patties, &c.

TRUSSING AND CARVING.

POULTRY AND GAME.

OBSERVATIONS ON TRUSSING.—Although in London the various articles are trussed by the poulterer from whom they are purchased, yet it happens that presents from the country are sometimes spoiled for want of a knowledge of the following rules, both on the part of the mistress and cook.

All poultry should be well picked, every plug, or stub, removed, and the bird carefully and nicely singed with white paper. In drawing poultry or game, care should be taken not to break the gall-bladder—as it would spoil the flavour of the bird by imparting a bitter taste to it, that no washing or any process could remove—nor the gut joining the gizzard, otherwise the inside would be gritty.

OBSERVATIONS ON CARVING.—The carving knife for poultry and game is smaller and lighter than that for meat; the point is more peaked, and the handle longer.

In cutting up wild-fowl, duck, goose, or turkey, more prime pieces may be obtained by carving slices from pinion to pinion without making wings, which is a material advantage in distributing the bird when the party is large.

A GOOSE.

TRUSSING.—Pick and stub it clean, cut the feet off at the joint, and the pinion off at the first joint. Then cut off the neck close to the back, leaving the skin of the neck long enough to turn over the back. Pull out the throat, and tie a knot at the end. Loosen the liver and other matters at the breast end with the middle finger, and cut it open between the vent and the rump. Draw out all the entrails except the soul, wipe the body clean out with a cloth, beat the breast-bone flat with a rolling-pin, put a skewer into the wing, and draw the legs up close; put the skewer through the middle of the leg, and through the body, and the same on the other side. Put another skewer in the small of the leg, tuck it close down to the sidesman, run it through, and do the same on the other side. Cut off the end of the vent, and make a hole large enough for the passage of the rump, as by that means it will keep in the seasoning much better.

CARVING.—Turn the neck towards you, and cut two or three long slices on each side of the breast, in the lines 1–2, quite to the bone. Then remove the leg by turning the goose on one side, putting the fork through the small end of the leg-bone, and pressing it close to the body, which, when the knife has entered at 4, raises the joint; the knife is then to be passed under the leg, in the direction 4–5. If the leg hangs to the carcass at the joint 5, turn it back with the fork, and it will readily separate if young, but will require some strength if old. Take the wing off by putting the fork into the small end of the pinion, and press it close to the body; divide the joint at 3 with the knife, carrying it along as far as 4. When the leg and wing on one side are taken off, remove those on the other side.

To get at the stuffing, the apron must be removed by cutting in the line, 6, 5, 7, and then take off the merry-thought in the line, 8, 9. The neck-bones are next to be separated as in a fowl, and all other parts divided the same.

The best parts are the breast slices; the fleshy part of the wing, which may be divided from the pinion; the thigh-bone, which may be easily divided in the joint from the leg-bone; the pinion; and next, the side-bones. The rump is a nice piece to those who like it; and the carcass is preferred by some to other parts.

When assisting the stuffing, extract it with a spoon from the body through the aperture caused by removing the apron; mix it with the gravy, which should first be poured from the boat into the body of the goose, before any one is helped.

GREEN GOOSE

Is trussed and carved in the same way, but the most delicate parts are the breast, and the gristle at the lower part of it.

TURKEY.

TRUSSING.—When the bird is picked carefully, break the leg-bone close to the foot, hang on a hook, and draw out the strings from the thigh; cut the neck close off to the back, taking care to leave the crop-skin long enough to turn over the back. Remove the crop, and loosen the liver and gut at the throat end with the middle finger. Cut off the vent, remove the gut, pull out the gizzard with a crooked wire, and the liver will soon follow; but be careful not to break the gall. Wipe the inside perfectly clean with a wet cloth, then cut the breast-bone through on each side close to the back, and draw the legs close to the crop, then put a cloth on the breast, beat the thigh-bone down with a rolling-pin till it lies flat.

If the turkey is to be trussed for _boiling_, cut the first joint of the legs off; pass the middle finger into the inside, raise the skin of the legs, and put them under the apron of the bird. Put a skewer into the joint of the wing and the middle joint of the leg, and run it through the body and the other leg and wing. The liver and gizzard must be put in the pinions, care being taken to open and previously remove the contents of the latter; the gall-bladder must also be detached from the liver. Then turn the small end of the pinion on the back, and tie a packthread over the ends of the legs, to keep them in their places.

If the turkey is to be _roasted_, leave the legs on, put a skewer in the joint of the wing, tuck the legs close up, and put the skewer through the middle of the legs and body; on the other side put another skewer in at the small part of the leg. Put it close on the outside of the sidesman, and push the skewer through, and the same on the other side. Put the liver and gizzard between the pinions, and turn the point of the pinion on the back. Then put, close above the pinions, another skewer through the body of the bird.

CARVING.—The finest parts of a turkey are the breast, neck-bones, and wings; the latter will bear some delicate slices being removed. After the four quarters are severed, the thighs must be divided from the drum-sticks, which, being tough, should be reserved till the last. It is customary not to cut up more than the breast, but if any more is required, to take off one of the wings; a thin slice of the forcemeat, which is under the breast, should be given to each person, cutting in the direction from the rump to the neck. A turkey is generally carved the same as a pheasant; it has no merry-thought.

TURKEY-POULTS.

TRUSSING.—Separate the neck from the head and body, but not the neck-skin. Draw the same as a turkey. Put a skewer through the joint of the pinion, tuck the legs close up, run the skewer through the middle of the leg, through the body, and so on the other side. Cut off the under part of the bill, twist the skin of the neck round and round, and skewer the head with the bill end forward; another skewer must then be put into the sidesman, and the legs placed between the sidesman and apron on each side. Pass the skewer through all, and cut off the toe-nails. Some lard them on the breast. It is optional whether the liver and gizzard be used or not.

CARVING.—They are to be carved the same as a turkey.

FOWLS.

TRUSSING.—Fowls must be picked very clean, and the neck cut off close to the back. Take out the crop, and, with the middle finger, loosen the liver and other parts. Cut off the vent, draw it clean, and beat the breast-bone flat with a rolling-pin.

If the fowl is to be _boiled_, cut off the nails of the feet, and tuck them down close to the legs. Put your finger into the inside, and raise the skin of the legs; then cut a hole in the top of the skin, and put the legs under. Put a skewer in the first joint of the pinion, and bring the middle of the leg close to it; put the skewer through the middle of the leg, and through the body, and then do the same on the other side. Open the gizzard, remove the contents, and wash well; remove the gall-bladder from the liver. Put the gizzard and the liver in the pinions, turn the points on the back, and tie a string over the tops of the legs, to keep them in their proper places.

If the fowl is to be _roasted_, put a skewer in the first joint of the pinion, and bring the middle of the leg close to it. Put the skewer through the middle of the leg, and through the body, and do the same on the other side. Put another skewer in the small of the leg, and through the sidesman; do the same on the other side, and then put another through the skin of the feet, which should have the nails cut off.

CARVING.—A fowl is cut up in the same way, whether roasted or boiled. We have illustrated the method of carving upon the boiled fowl. Fix the fork in the middle of the breast at 5, take off the wing in the direction 1–2, dividing the joint at 1. Lift up the pinion with your fork, and draw the wing towards the leg, which will separate the fleshy part better than by the knife; and between the leg and the body at 3 to the bone as far as the joint; then give the knife a sudden twist, and the joint will yield if the bird is young; repeat this on the other side, and then take off the merry-thought in the line 2–5–4, by passing the knife under it towards the neck; now remove the neck-bones by passing the knife in at 7 under the long broad part of the bone in the line 7–6; then lifting it up, and breaking off the end of the shorter part of the bone, which cleaves to the breast-bone. Divide the breast from the back, by cutting through the tender ribs on each side, from the neck quite down to the vent; turn up the back, press the point of the knife about half-way between the neck and rump, and on raising the lower end it will separate easily. Turn the rump from you, take off the sidesman by forcing the knife through the rump-bone, in the lines 5–8, and when this is done the whole fowl is completely carved.

The prime parts of a fowl, whether roasted or boiled, are the wings, breast, and merry-thought; and next to these, the neck-bones and side-bones; the legs are rather coarse; of a boiled fowl, however, the legs are rather more tender than a roasted one; of the leg of a fowl the thigh is the better part, and therefore when given to any one should be separated from the drum-stick, which is done by passing the knife underneath, in the hollow, and turning the thigh-bone back from the leg-bone.

CHICKEN.

TRUSSING.—Pick and draw them in the same manner as you would fowls; but, as their skins are very tender, plunge them into scalding water, and remove when the feathers will come off readily.

If they are to be _boiled_, cut off the nails, notch the sinews on each side of the joint, put the feet in at the vent, and then peel the rump. Draw the skin tight over the legs, put a skewer in the first joint of the pinion, and bring the middle of the legs close. Put the skewer through the middle of the legs, and through the body; and do the same on the other side. Clean the gizzard, and remove the gall from the liver; put them into the pinions, and turn the points on the back.

If for _roasting_, cut off the feet, put a skewer in the first joint of the pinions, and bring the middle of the leg close. Run the skewer through the middle of the leg and body, and do the same on the other side. Put another skewer into the sidesman, put the legs between the apron and the sidesman, and run the skewer through. Having cleaned the liver and gizzard, put them under the pinions, turn the points on the back, and pull the breast-skin over the neck.

CARVING.—They are to be cut up the same as a fowl.

PHEASANT.

TRUSSING.—Pick them clean, cut a slit at the back of the neck, take out the crop, loosen the liver, and gut the breast with the fore-finger; then cut off the vent, and draw them. Cut off the pinion at the first joint, and wipe out the inside with the pinion. Beat the breast-bone flat with a rolling-pin, put a skewer in the pinion, and bring the middle of the legs close. Then run the skewer through the legs, body, and the other pinion, twist the head, and put it on the end of the skewer, with the bill fronting the breast. Put another skewer into the sidesman, and put the legs close on each side of the apron, and then run the skewer through all. If you wish the cock-pheasant to look well, leave the beautiful feathers on the head, and cover with paper to protect them from the fire. Save the long feathers from the tail; and when cooked, stick them into the rump before sending to table.

If the pheasants are for _boiling_, put the legs in the same manner as in trussing a fowl.

CARVING.—Fix the fork in the centre of the breast, just below the cross line 6–7, you will then be enabled to hold the bird firmly. Slice down the breast in the lines 1–2, and then proceed to take off the leg on one side, in the direction 4–5, and the wing on the same side, in the line 3–4. Turn the bird over, remove the leg and wing of the other side, and separate the slices previously divided on the breast. In removing the wing, be careful to cut it in the notch 1, for if cut too near the neck, as at 1–6, the neck-bone will interfere, from which, of course, the wing must be separated. The merry-thought is now to be removed in the line 6–7, by passing the knife under it toward the neck. The remaining parts are to be cut up in the same manner as a roast fowl.

The best parts are the breast, the wings, and merry-thought. Some give preference to the brains, but the leg is the highest flavoured.

PARTRIDGE.

TRUSSING.—Partridges, and all kinds of moor-game, are to be trussed in the same manner as pheasants.

CARVING.—This bird is cut up in the same manner as a fowl, only, on account of the smallness, the merry-thought is seldom divided from the breast. The wings must be taken off in the lines 1–2, and the merry-thought, if wished, in the lines 3–4. The prime parts are the wings, breast, and merry-thought. The wing is considered best, and the tip of it is esteemed the most delicate piece of the whole.

DUCK.

TRUSSING.—Ducks are trussed in the same manner as geese, except that the feet must be left on, and turned close to the legs.

CARVING.—Remove the legs and wings as directed before for a goose, and cut some slices from each side of the breast. The seasoning will be found under the apron, as in the other bird. If it is necessary, the merry-thought, &c., can be detached in the same manner as when carving a fowl.

WILD-FOWL.

TRUSSING.—Pick clean, cut off the neck close to the back, and, with the middle finger, loosen the liver and other parts. Cut off the pinions at the first joint; then cut a slit between the vent and the rump, and draw them clean. Clean them properly with the long feathers on the wing, cut off the nails, and turn the feet close to the legs. Put a skewer in the pinion, pull the legs close to the breast, and run the skewer through the legs, body, and the other pinion. Cut off the end of the vent, and put the rump through it.

All kinds of wild-fowl are to be trussed thus.

CARVING.—Every kind of wild-fowl must be carved the same as a duck.

PIGEON.

TRUSSING.—Pick clean, take off the neck close to the back; then remove the crop, cut off the vent, and draw out the entrails and gizzard, but leave the liver, as a pigeon has no gall-bladder.

If for _roasting_, cut off the toes, cut a slit in one of the legs, and put the other through it. Draw the leg tight to the pinion, put a skewer through the pinion, legs, and body, and with the handle of the knife break the breast flat. Clean the gizzard, put it under one of the pinions, and turn the points on the back.

If for _boiling_ or _stewing_, cut the feet off at the joints, turn the legs, and stick them in the sides, close to the pinions. If for a _pie_, they must be done in the same manner.

CARVING.—There are three methods of carving them:—1st, as a chicken; 2nd, by dividing them down the middle; and 3rd, dividing them across, which is done by fixing the fork at 1, and entering the knife just before it, then cutting in the lines 1–2 and 1–3. The lower part is considered the better half.

WOODCOCK, PLOVER, AND SNIPE.

TRUSSING.—If these birds are not very fresh, great care must be taken in picking them, as they are very tender to pick at any time; for even the heat of the hand will sometimes take off the skin, which will destroy the beauty of the bird. When picked clean, cut the pinions in the first joint, and with the handle of a knife beat the breast-bone flat. Turn the legs close to the thighs, and tie them together at the joints. Put the thighs close to the pinions, put a skewer into the pinions, and run it through the thighs, body, and other pinion. Skin the head, turn it, take out the eyes, and put the head on the point of the skewer, with the bill close to the breast. _These birds must never be drawn._

CARVING.—Woodcocks and plovers are carved the same as a fowl, if large; but cut in quarters if small. Snipes are cut in halves. The head is generally opened in all.

LARKS, WHEAT-EARS, AND ALL SMALL BIRDS.

TRUSSING.—Pick well, cut off their heads, and the pinions of the first joint. Beat the breast-bone flat, and turn the feet close to the legs, and put one into the other. Draw out the gizzard, and run a skewer through the middle of the bodies. Tie the skewer fast to the spit when you put them down to roast.

CARVING.—These birds may be divided down the middle, or given whole, especially when small.

HARE.

TRUSSING.—Run a skewer through the two shoulders, at 2; another through the head at 1, or pass it into the mouth and through the body, to keep the head in its place; two others should be passed through the roots of the ears, to keep them erect; and another through the legs at 3. The inside of the ears should be singed out with a hot poker before roasting, and the eyes extracted with a fork. Many people let a hare soak in cold water all night before trussing, but a few hours is quite sufficient to extract the blood.

CARVING.—Insert the point of the knife inside the shoulder at 6, and divide all the way down to the rump, on both sides, in the line 6, 7, 8, which will separate the hare into three pieces. Sever the shoulders in the direction 5, 6, 7, and the legs in a similar manner; as the latter is too large for one person in a large hare, it should be divided from the thigh. Now behead it, cut off the ears close to the roots, and divide the upper from the lower jaw; then place the former on a plate, put the point of the knife into the forehead, and divide it through the centre down to the nose. Cut the back into several small pieces in the lines 9–10, and proceed to assist, giving some stuffing (which is found below 10), and, gravy to each person. This can only be done easily when the animal is young; if old, it must be cut up as follows:—Cut off the legs and shoulders first, and then cut out long narrow slices on each side of the back-bone in the direction 7–8; then divide the back-bone into three or more parts, and behead the hare as usual.

The prime parts are the back and legs; the ears are considered a luxury by some, and so are the head, brains, and bloody part of the neck. The best part of the leg is the fleshy part of the thigh at 8.

RABBITS.

RABBITS, whether for roasting or boiling, are trussed and cut up the same as a hare, except that the back is divided into two or three parts, without separating it from the belly. The best parts are the shoulders and back; the head should not be given unless asked for.

All printed directions must fail without constant practice; yet with practice, and due attention to the rules we have laid down, we doubt not that many of our readers will speedily become good carvers.

DIRECTIONS FOR CARVING FISH.

As the manner in which joints, and other provisions are carved, makes a material difference in the consumption and comfort of a family, it becomes highly important to those who study economy and good order in their domestic arrangements, to practise the art. We therefore recommend them to study the rules we purpose laying down, and which we commence with directions for carving fish. Our papers upon this subject will be accompanied by excellent illustrations. It must be remembered that, in carving, more depends upon skill than on strength; that the carving knife should be light, and of moderate size, with a keen edge; and that the dish should be so placed as to give the operator complete command over the joint.

Fish is served with a fish-slice, or the new fish-knife and fork, and requires very little carving, care being required, however, not to break the flakes, which, from their size, add much to the beauty of cod and salmon. Serve part of the roe, milt, or liver, to each person. The heads of carp, part of those of cod and salmon, sounds of cod, and fins of turbot, are likewise considered delicacies.

MACKEREL.—Take off the head and tail by passing the slice across in the direction of lines 1 and 2; they should then be divided down the back, so as to assist each person to a side; but if less is required, the thicker end should be given, as it is more esteemed. If the roe is asked for, it will be found between 1 and 2.

Barbel, Carp, Haddock, Herring, Perch, Whiting, &c., should be assisted the same as Mackerel; remembering that the head of the Carp is esteemed a delicacy.

COD’S HEAD AND SHOULDERS.—Pass the fish-slice or knife from 1 to 6 down to the bone; then help pieces from between 1–2, and 3–4, and with each slice give a piece of the sound, which lies under the back-bone, and is procured by passing the knife in the direction 4–5. There are many delicate parts about the head, particularly the oyster, which is the cheek, below the eye; and a great deal of the jelly kind, which lies about the jaws. The tongue and palate are considered delicacies, and are obtained by passing the slice or a spoon into the mouth.

SALMON.—Give part of the back and belly to each person, or as desired. If a whole salmon is served, remember that the choice parts are next the head, the thin part is the next best, and the tail the least esteemed. Make an incision along the back 9 to 10, and another from 1 to 2, and 3 to 4; cut the thickest part, between 5–6, 10–2, for the lean; and 7–8 for the fat. When the fish is very thick, do not help too near the bone, as the flavour and colour are not so good.

TURBOT.—Place the fish with the under part uppermost on the dish, so that this may be assisted in preference. Make an incision from 1 to 2, and another from 3 to 4; then cut from between as 5, 6, which is the primest part. When the whole of this side is finished, assist the upper part, raising the back-bone with the fork, while you use the fish-knife for the flesh: this is more solid and less delicate. The fins are much esteemed.

BRILL, PLAICE, and flat fish generally are assisted in the same manner as turbot.

SOLES may be assisted the same as turbot, or cut across the middle, bone and all, so as to divide the fish into three or four parts; one portion being given to each person.

EELS are usually cut into pieces about three inches long; and the thickest part being most esteemed, should be given first.

NAMES OF THE VARIOUS JOINTS IN ANIMALS.

_Hind Quarter._

1. Sirloin.
2. Rump.
3. Aitch-Bone.
4. Buttock.
5. Mouse-Buttock.
6. Veiny Piece.
7. Thick Flank.
8. Thin Flank.
9. Leg.
10. Fore-ribs; 5 ribs.

_Fore Quarter._

11. Middle-rib; 4 ribs.
12. Chuck; 3 ribs.
13. Shoulder, or Leg of Mutton Piece.
14. Brisket.
15. Clod.
16. Neck, or Sticking Piece.
17. Shin.
18. Cheek.]

1. Leg.
2. Loin, best end.
3. Loin, chump end.
4. Neck, best end.
5. Neck, scrag end.
6. Shoulder.
7. Breast.
8. Head.

A Chine is two Necks. A Saddle is two Loins.]

1. The Spare-rib.
2. The Hand.
3. The Belly or Spring.
4. Fore-loin.
5. Hind-loin.
6. Leg.
7. Head.]

1. Loin, best end.
2. Loin, chump end.
3. Fillet.
4. Hind-knuckle.
5. Fore-knuckle.
6. Neck, best end.
7. Neck, scrag end.
8. Blade-Bone.
9. Breast, best end.
10. Breast, Brisket end.
11. Head.]

1. Haunch.
2. Neck.
3. Shoulder.
4. Breast.]

DIRECTIONS FOR CARVING JOINTS.

In assisting the more fleshy joints—such as beef, leg, or saddle of mutton, and fillet of veal—cut thin, smooth, and neat slices; taking care to pass the knife through to the bones of beef and mutton.

The carver would be saved much trouble, if the joints of carcass pieces of mutton, lamb, and veal, were divided by the butcher previous to cooking. If the whole of the meat belonging to each bone should be too thick, a slice may be taken off from between every two bones.

In assisting some boiled joints, as aitch-bone or round of beef, remove and lay aside a thick slice from the top, before you begin to serve.

EDGE OR AITCH-BONE OF BEEF.—Cut off a slice three-quarters of an inch thick, from the upper part, from 1 to 2; help in long thin slices. The soft marrow fat lies below 3, at the back; the firm fat is to be cut in thin horizontal slices at 4. Before sending to table, remove the wooden skewers and insert _atelets_, which may be withdrawn when you cut them down.

SIRLOIN OF BEEF.—There are two modes of helping this joint; either by carving long thin slices from 3 to 4, and assisting a portion of the marrowy fat, which is found underneath the ribs, to each person; or by cutting thicker, slices in the direction 1 to 2. When sent to table the joint should be laid down on the dish with the surface 2 uppermost.

RIBS OF BEEF are carved similarly to the sirloin, commencing at the thin end of the joint, and cutting long slices, so as to assist fat and lean at the same time.

ROUND, OR BUTTOCK OF BEEF.—Remove the upper surface in the same manner as for an aitch-bone of beef, carve thin horizontal slices of fat and lean, as evenly as possible. It requires a sharp knife and steady hand to carve it well.

BRISKET OF BEEF must be carved in the direction 1–2, quite down to the bone, after cutting off the outside, which should be about three-quarters of an inch thick.

SHOULDER OF MUTTON.—First cut down to the bone, in the direction of the line 1, assist thin slices of lean from each side of the incision. The best fat is found at 2, and should be cut in thin slices in the direction of that line. Several delicate slices may be cut on either side of the line 3, and there are some nice bits on the under-side, especially near the shank and the flap. Some carve this joint by cutting long slices from the knuckle to the broad end, which is in fact, an extension of line 3; it is not an economical way. When sent to the table, the knuckle should be bound round with writing-paper, or a knitted ornament, as for ham.

LEG OF MUTTON.—Wether mutton is esteemed most, and is known by a lump of fat at the edge of the broadest part, 7. The finest slices are to be obtained from the centre, by cutting in the direction 1–2; and some very good cuts may be got off the broad end from 5 to 6. Some persons prefer the knuckle, which, though tender, is dry; the question should therefore be asked. By turning over the leg, some excellent slices may be procured, especially when it is cold, by cutting lengthways, the same as carving venison. The cramp-bone is another delicacy, and is obtained by cutting down to the thigh-bone at 4, and passing the knife under it in a semicircular direction to 3. The fat lies chiefly on the ridge 5. When sent to table, it should have a frill of paper, or a knitted ornament round the knuckle; and if boiled, should lie on the dish as represented above, but should be turned over if roasted.

HAUNCH OF MUTTON consists of the leg and part of the loin, cut so as to resemble a haunch of venison, and is to be carved in the same manner.

SADDLE, OR CHINE OF MUTTON.—This is an excellent and elegant joint, and should be carved in long, thin, smooth slices from the tail to the end, commencing close to the back-bone—a portion of fat being assisted with each slice, which must be taken from the sides. It is carved on both sides of the back-bone. Some carvers make an incision close to the back-bone through its length, and cut slices cross-ways from thence. If sent to table with the tail on, it may be removed by cutting between the joint.

LOIN OF MUTTON is easily carved, as the bones are divided at the joints. Begin at the narrow end, and take off the chops; some slices of meat may be obtained between the bones, when the joints are cut through.

FORE QUARTER OF LAMB.—First separate the shoulder from the breast by passing the knife in the direction 3, 4, and 5, then holding the shoulder up with the carving-fork, sprinkle some salt and cayenne pepper on both surfaces, and squeeze a lemon or Seville orange over them; add a small piece of fresh butter, and replace the shoulder for a short time; then remove it to another dish. The body should be divided by an incision, as in 1, 2, so as to separate the ribs from the gristly part, and either may be assisted, by cutting in the direction 6, 7. The shoulder is to be carved the same as mutton.

LOIN OF LAMB, LEG OF LAMB, and SHOULDER OF LAMB, must be carved in the same manner as mutton, for which see directions.

HAUNCH OF VENISON.—First cut it across down to the bone in the line 1–3–2, then turn the dish with the end, 4, towards you, put in the point of the knife at 3, and cut it down as deep as possible in the direction 3–4, after which, continue to cut slices parallel to 3–4, on the right and left of the line. The best slices are on the left of the line 3–4, supposing 4 to be towards you; and the fattest slices are to be found between 4 and 2.

LOIN OF VEAL should be jointed previous to being sent to table, when the divisions should be separated with the carving knife, and a portion of the kidney, and the fat which surrounds it, given with each division.

BREAST OF VEAL, ROASTED, should be divided into two parts by an incision in the direction 1–2; then divide the brisket, or gristly part, into convenient pieces, as 3–4, 5–6, and the ribs also, as 7–8. The sweetbread, 9, may be divided into portions, or assisted whole; it is more economical, however, to make a side dish of it, if you have a few friends.

FILLET OF VEAL is carved similarly to round of beef, in thin smooth slices, off the top; some persons like the outside, therefore ask the question. For the stuffing, cut deep into the flap between 1–2, and help a portion of it to each person. The _atelets_ may be removed when you cut down to them.

KNUCKLE OF VEAL is to be carved in the direction 1–9. The most delicate fat lies about the part 4, and if cut in the line 3–4, the two bones, between which the marrowy fat lies, will be divided.

ROASTED PIG.—The pig is seldom sent to table whole, but is divided by the cook, and served up as represented in the accompanying illustration. First divide the shoulder from the body on one side, and then the leg in the same manner; separate the ribs into convenient portions, and assist a little stuffing and gravy with each. If the head has not been divided, it must be done, and the brains taken out and mixed with the gravy and stuffing. The triangular piece of the neck is the most delicate part of the pig, the ribs the next best, and the ear is also regarded as a delicacy.

LEG OF PORK, whether boiled or roasted, is carved the same. Commence about midway, between the knuckle and the thick end, and cut thin deep slices from either side of the line 1 to 2. For the seasoning in the roast leg, look under the skin at the thick end.

HAND OF PORK.—Cut thin slices either across near the knuckle or from the blade-bone, the same as for a shoulder of mutton.

LOIN OF PORK is to be carved in the same manner as a loin of mutton.

A SPARE-RIB OF PORK is carved by cutting slices from the fleshy part, after which the bones should be disjointed and separated.

HAM may be carved in three ways; firstly, by cutting long delicate slices through the thick fat in the direction 1–2, down to the bone; secondly, by inserting the point of the carving knife in the circle in the middle, taking out a piece as 3, and by cutting thin circular slices, thus enlarge the hole gradually, which keeps the meat moist; and thirdly, which is the most economical way, by commencing at the hock end 4–5, and proceeding onwards. When used for pies, the meat should be cut from the under-side, after taking off a thick slice. It should be sent to table with a frill of white paper or a knitted ornament on the knuckle.