Chapter VII (1)

Hunting. Its Benefits to the Soldier. Buffalo. Deer. Antelope. Bear. Big-horn, or Mountain Sheep. Their Habits, and Hints upon the best Methods of hunting them.

HUNTING.

I know of no better school of practice for perfecting men in target-firing, and the use of firearms generally, than that in which the frontier hunter receives his education. One of the first and most important lessons that he is taught impresses him with the conviction that, unless his gun is in good order and steadily directed upon the game, he must go without his supper; and if ambition does not stimulate his efforts, his appetite will, and ultimately lead to success and confidence in his own powers.

The man who is afraid to place the butt of his piece firmly against his shoulder, or who turns away his head at the instant of pulling trigger (as soldiers often do before they have been drilled at target-practice), will not be likely to bag much game or to contribute materially toward the result of a battle. The successful hunter, as a general rule, is a good shot, will always charge his gun properly, and may be relied upon in action. I would, therefore, when in garrison or at permanent camps, encourage officers and soldiers in field-sports. If permitted, men very readily cultivate a fondness for these innocent and healthy exercises, and occupy their leisure time in their pursuit; whereas, if confined to the narrow limits of a frontier camp or garrison, having no amusements within their reach, they are prone to indulge in practices which are highly detrimental to their physical and moral condition.

By making short excursions about the country they acquire a knowledge of it, become inured to fatigue, learn the art of bivouacking, trailing, etc., etc., all of which will be found serviceable in border warfare; and, even if they should perchance now and then miss some of the minor routine duties of the garrison, the benefits they would derive from hunting would, in my opinion, more than counterbalance its effects. Under the old regime it was thought that drills, dress-parades, and guard-mountings comprehended the sum total of the soldier's education, but the experience of the last ten years has taught us that these are only the rudiments, and that to combat successfully with Indians we must receive instruction from them, study their tactics, and, where they suit our purposes, copy from them.

The union of discipline with the individuality, self-reliance, and rapidity of locomotion of the savage is what we should aim at. This will be the tendency of the course indicated, and it is conceived by the writer that an army composed of well-disciplined hunters will be the most efficient of all others against the only enemy we have to encounter within the limits of our vast possessions.

I find some pertinent remarks upon this subject in a very sensible essay by "a late captain of infantry" (U.S.). He says:

"It is conceived that scattered bands of mounted hunters, with the speed of a horse and the watchfulness of a wolf or antelope, whose faculties are sharpened by their necessities; who, when they get short of provisions, separate and look for something to eat, and find it in the water, in the ground, or on the surface; whose bill of fare ranges from grass-seed, nuts, roots, grasshoppers, lizards, and rattlesnakes up to the antelope, deer, elk, bear, and buffalo, and who have a continent to roam over, will be neither surprised, caught, conquered, overawed, or reduced to famine by a rumbling, bugle-blowing, drum-beating town passing through their country on wheels at the speed of a loaded wagon.

"If the Indians are in the path and do not wish to be seen, they cross a ridge, and the town moves on, ignorant whether there are fifty Indians within a mile or no Indian within fifty miles. If the Indians wish to see, they return to the crest of the ridge, crawl up to the edge, pull up a bunch of grass by the roots, and look through or under it at the procession."

Although I would always encourage men in hunting when permanently located, yet, unless they are good woodsmen, it is not safe to permit them to go out alone in marching through the Indian country, as, aside from the danger of encountering Indians, they would be liable to become bewildered and perhaps lost, and this might detain the entire party in searching for them. The better plan upon a march is for three or four to go out together, accompanied by a good woodsman, who will be able with certainty to lead them back to camp.

The little group could ascertain if Indians are about, and would be strong enough to act on the defensive against small parties of them; and, while they are amusing themselves, they may perform an important part as scouts and flankers.

An expedition may have been perfectly organized, and every thing provided that the wisest forethought could suggest, yet circumstances beyond the control of the most experienced traveler may sometimes arise to defeat the best concerted plans. It is not, for example, an impossible contingency that the traveler may, by unforeseen delays, consume his provisions, lose them in crossing streams, or have them stolen by hostile Indians, and be reduced to the necessity of depending upon game for subsistence. Under these circumstances, a few observations upon the habits of the different animals that frequent the Plains and on the best methods of hunting them may not be altogether devoid of interest or utility in this connection.

THE BUFFALO.

The largest and most useful animal that roams over the prairies is the buffalo. It provides food, clothing, and shelter to thousands of natives whose means of livelihood depend almost exclusively upon this gigantic monarch of the prairies.

Not many years since they thronged in countless multitudes over all that vast area lying between Mexico and the British possessions, but now their range is confined within very narrow limits, and a few more years will probably witness the extinction of the species.

The traveler, in passing from Texas or Arkansas through southern New Mexico to California, does not, at the present day, encounter the buffalo; but upon all the routes north of latitude 36 deg. the animal is still found between the 99th and 102d meridians of longitude.

Although generally regarded as migratory in their habits, yet the buffalo often _winter_ in the snows of a high northern latitude. Early in the spring of 1858 I found them in the Rocky Mountains, at the head of the Arkansas and South Platte Rivers, and there was every indication that this was a permanent abiding-place for them.

There are two methods generally practiced in hunting the buffalo, viz.: running them on horseback, and stalking, or still-hunting. The first method requires a sure-footed and tolerably fleet horse that is not easily frightened. The buffalo cow, which makes much better beef than the bull, when pursued by the hunter runs rapidly, and, unless the horse be fleet, it requires a long and exhausting chase to overtake her.

When the buffalo are discovered, and the hunter intends to give chase, he should first dismount, arrange his saddle-blanket and saddle, buckle the girth tight, and make every thing about his horse furniture snug and secure. He should then put his arms in good firing order, and, taking the lee side of the herd, so that they may not get "_the wind_" of him, he should approach in a walk as close as possible, taking advantage of any cover that may offer. His horse then, being cool and fresh, will be able to dash into the herd, and probably carry his rider very near the animal he has selected before he becomes alarmed.

If the hunter be right-handed, and uses a pistol, he should approach upon the left side, and when nearly opposite and close upon the buffalo, deliver his shot, taking aim a little below the centre of the body, and about eight inches back of the shoulder. This will strike the vitals, and generally render another shot unnecessary.

When a rifle or shot-gun is used the hunter rides up on the right side, keeping his horse well in hand, so as to be able to turn off if the beast charges upon him; this, however, never happens except with a buffalo that is wounded, when it is advisable to keep out of his reach.

The buffalo has immense powers of endurance, and will run for many miles without any apparent effort or diminution in speed. The first buffalo I ever saw I followed about ten miles, and when I left him he seemed to run faster than when the chase commenced.

As a long buffalo-chase is very severe labor upon a horse, I would recommend to all travelers, unless they have a good deal of surplus horse-flesh, never to expend it in running buffalo.

Still-hunting, which requires no consumption of horse-flesh, and is equally successful with the other method, is recommended. In stalking on horseback, the most broken and hilly localities should be selected, as these will furnish cover to the hunter, who passes from the crest of one hill to another, examining the country carefully in all directions. When the game is discovered, if it happen to be on the lee side, the hunter should endeavor, by making a wide detour, to get upon the opposite side, as he will find it impossible to approach within rifle range with the wind.

When the animal is upon a hill, or in any other position where he can not be approached without danger of disturbing him, the hunter should wait until he moves off to more favorable ground, and this will not generally require much time, as they wander about a great deal when not grazing; he then pickets his horse, and approaches cautiously, seeking to screen himself as much as possible by the undulations in the surface, or behind such other objects as may present themselves; but if the surface should offer no cover, he must crawl upon his hands and knees when near the game, and in this way he can generally get within rifle range.

Should there be several animals together, and his first shot take effect, the hunter can often get several other shots before they become frightened. A Delaware Indian and myself once killed five buffaloes out of a small herd before the remainder were so much disturbed as to move away; although we were within the short distance of twenty yards, yet the reports of our rifles did not frighten them in the least, and they continued grazing during all the time we were loading and firing.

The sense of smelling is exceedingly acute with the buffalo, and they will take the wind from the hunter at as great a distance as a mile.

When the animal is wounded, and stops, it is better not to go near him until he lies down, as he will often run a great distance if disturbed; but if left to himself, will in many cases die in a short time.

The tongues, humps, and marrow-bones are regarded as the choice parts of the animal. The tongue is taken out by ripping open the skin between the prongs of the lower jaw-bone and pulling it out through the orifice. The hump may be taken off by skinning down on each side of the shoulders and cutting away the meat, after which the hump-ribs can be unjointed where they unite with the spine. The marrow, when roasted in the bones, is delicious.

THE DEER.

Of all game quadrupeds indigenous to this continent, the common red deer is probably more widely dispersed from north to south and from east to west over our vast possessions than any other. They are found in all latitudes from Hudson's Bay to Mexico, and they clamber over the most elevated peaks of the western sierras with the same ease that they range the eastern forests or the everglades of Florida. In summer they crop the grass upon the summits of the Rocky Mountains, and in winter, when the snow falls deep, they descend into sheltered valleys, where they fall an easy prey to the Indians.

Besides the common red deer of the Eastern States, two other varieties are found in the Rocky Mountains, viz., the "black-tailed deer," which takes its name from the fact of its having a small tuft of black hair upon the end of its tail, and the _long-tailed_ species. The former of these is considerably larger than the eastern deer, and is much darker, being of a very deep-yellowish iron-gray, with a yellowish red upon the belly. It frequents the mountains, and is never seen far away from them. Its habits are similar to those of the red deer, and it is hunted in the same way. The only difference I have been able to discern between the long-tailed variety and the common deer is in the length of the tail and body. I have seen this animal only in the neighborhood of the Rocky Mountains, but it may resort to other localities.

Although the deer are still abundant in many of our forest districts in the east, and do not appear to decrease very rapidly, yet there has within a few years been a very evident diminution in the numbers of those frequenting our Western prairies. In passing through Southern Texas in 1846, thousands of deer were met with daily, and, astonishing as it may appear, it was no uncommon spectacle to see from one to two hundred in a single herd; the prairies seemed literally alive with them; but in 1855 it was seldom that a herd often was seen in the same localities. It seemed to me that the vast herds first met with could not have been killed off by the hunters in that sparsely-populated section, and I was puzzled to know what had become of them. It is possible they may have moved off into Mexico; they certainly are not in our territory at the present time.

Twenty years' experience in deer-hunting has taught me several facts relative to the habits of the animal which, when well understood, will be found of much service to the inexperienced hunter, and greatly contribute to his success. The best target-shots are not necessarily the most skillful deer-stalkers. One of the great secrets of this art is in knowing how to approach the game without giving alarm, and this can not easily be done unless the hunter sees it before he is himself discovered. There are so many objects in the woods resembling the deer in color that none but a practiced eye can often detect the difference.

When the deer is reposing he generally turns his head from the wind, in which position he can see an enemy approaching from that direction, and his nose will apprise him of the presence of danger from the opposite side. The best method of hunting deer, therefore, is _across the wind_.

While the deer are feeding, early in the morning and a short time before dark in the evening are the best times to stalk them, as they are then busily occupied and less on the alert. When a deer is espied with his head down, cropping the grass, the hunter advances cautiously, keeping his eyes constantly directed upon him, and screening himself behind intervening objects, or, in the absence of other cover, crawls along upon his hands and knees in the grass, until the deer hears his steps and raises his head, when he must instantly stop and remain in an attitude fixed and motionless as a statue, for the animal's vision is his keenest sense. When alarmed he will detect the slightest movement of a small object, and, unless the hunter stands or lies perfectly still, his presence will be detected. If the hunter does not move, the deer will, after a short time, recover from his alarm and resume his grazing, when he may be again approached. The deer always exhibits his alarm by a sudden jerking of the tail just before he raises his head.

I once saw a Delaware Indian walk directly up within rifle range of a deer that was feeding upon the open prairie and shoot him down; he was, however, a long time in approaching, and made frequent halts whenever the animal flirted his tail and raised his head. Although he often turned toward the hunter, yet he did not appear to notice him, probably taking him for a stump or tree.

When the deer are lying down in the smooth prairie, unless the grass is tall, it is difficult to get near them, as they are generally looking around, and become alarmed at the least noise.

The Indians are in the habit of using a small instrument which imitates the bleat of the young fawn, with which they lure the doe within range of their rifles. The young fawn gives out no scent upon its track until it is sufficiently grown to make good running, and instinct teaches the mother that this wise provision of nature to preserve the helpless little quadruped from the ravages of wolves, panthers, and other carnivorous beasts, will be defeated if she remains with it, as her tracks can not be concealed. She therefore hides her fawn in the grass, where it is almost impossible to see it, even when very near it, goes off to some neighboring thicket within call, and makes her bed alone. The Indian pot-hunter, who is but little scrupulous as to the means he employs in accomplishing his ends, sounds the bleat along near the places where he thinks the game is lying, and the unsuspicious doe, who imagines that her offspring is in distress, rushes with headlong impetuosity toward the sound, and often goes within a few yards of the hunter to receive her death-wound.

This is cruel sport, and can only be justified when meat is scarce, which is very frequently the case in the Indian's larder.

It does not always comport with a man's feelings of security, especially if he happens to be a little nervous, to sound the deer-bleat in a wild region of country. I once undertook to experiment with the instrument myself, and made my first essay in attempting to call up an antelope which I discovered in the distance. I succeeded admirably in luring the wary victim within shooting range, had raised upon my knees, and was just in the act of pulling trigger, when a rustling in the grass on my left drew my attention in that direction, where, much to my surprise, I beheld a huge panther within about twenty yards, bounding with gigantic strides directly toward me. I turned my rifle, and in an instant, much to my relief and gratification, its contents were lodged in the heart of the beast.

Many men, when they suddenly encounter a deer, are seized with nervous excitement, called in sporting parlance the "_buck fever_," which causes them to fire at random. Notwithstanding I have had much experience in hunting, I must confess that I am never entirely free from some of the symptoms of this malady when firing at large game, and I believe that in four out of five cases where I have missed the game my balls have passed too high. I have endeavored to obviate this by sighting my rifle low, and it has been attended with more successful results. The same remarks apply to most other men I have met with. They fire too high when excited.

THE ANTELOPE.

This animal frequents the most elevated bleak and naked prairies in all latitudes from Mexico to Oregon, and constitutes an important item of subsistence with many of the Prairie Indians. It is the most wary, timid, and fleet animal that inhabits the Plains. It is about the size of a small deer, with a heavy coating of coarse, wiry hair, and its flesh is more tender and juicy than that of the deer. It seldom enters a timbered country, but seems to delight in cropping the grass from the elevated swells of the prairies. When disturbed by the traveler, it will circle around him with the speed of the wind, but does not stop until it reaches some prominent position whence it can survey the country on all sides, and nothing seems to escape its keen vision. They will sometimes stand for a long time and look at a man, provided he does not move or go out of sight; but if he goes behind a hill with the intention of passing around and getting nearer to them, he will never find them again in the same place. I have often tried the experiment, and invariably found that, as soon as I went where the antelope could not see me, he moved off. Their sense of hearing, as well as vision, is very acute, which renders it difficult to stalk them. By taking advantage of the cover afforded in broken ground, the hunter may, by moving slowly and cautiously over the crests of the irregularities in the surface, sometimes approach within rifle range.

The antelope possesses a greater degree of curiosity than any other animal I know of, and will often approach very near a strange object. The experienced hunter, taking advantage of this peculiarity, lies down and secretes himself in the grass, after which he raises his handkerchief, hand, or foot, so as to attract the attention of the animal, and thus often succeeds in beguiling him within shooting distance.

In some valleys near the Rocky Mountains, where the pasturage is good during the winter season, they collect in immense herds. The Indians are in the habit of surrounding them in such localities and running them with their horses until they tire them out, when they slay large numbers.

The antelope makes a track much shorter than the deer, very broad and round at the heel, and quite sharp at the toe; a little experience renders it easy to distinguish them.

THE BEAR.

Besides the common black bear of the Eastern States, several others are found in the mountains of California, Oregon, Utah, and New Mexico, viz., the grizzly, brown, and cinnamon varieties; all have nearly the same habits, and are hunted in the same manner.

From all I had heard of the grizzly bear, I was induced to believe him one of the most formidable and savage animals in the universe, and that the man who would deliberately encounter and kill one of these beasts had performed a signal feat of courage which entitled him to a lofty position among the votaries of Nimrod. So firmly had I become impressed with this conviction, that I should have been very reluctant to fire upon one had I met him when alone and on foot. The grizzly bear is assuredly the monarch of the American forests, and, so far as physical strength is concerned, he is perhaps without a rival in the world; but, after some experience in hunting, my opinions regarding his courage and his willingness to attack men have very materially changed.

In passing over the elevated table-lands lying between the two forks of the Platte River in 1858, I encountered a full-grown female grizzly bear, with two cubs, very quietly reposing upon the open prairie, several miles distant from any timber. This being the first opportunity that had ever occurred to me for an encounter with the ursine monster, and being imbued with the most exalted notions of the beast's proclivities for offensive warfare, especially when in the presence of her offspring, it may very justly be imagined that I was rather more excited than usual. I, however, determined to make the assault. I felt the utmost confidence in my horse, as she was afraid of nothing; and, after arranging every thing about my saddle and arms in good order, I advanced to within about eighty yards before I was discovered by the bear, when she raised upon her haunches and gave me a scrutinizing examination. I seized this opportune moment to fire, but missed my aim, and she started off, followed by her cubs at their utmost speed. After reloading my rifle, I pursued, and, on coming again within range, delivered another shot, which struck the large bear in the fleshy part of the thigh, whereupon she set up a most distressing howl and accelerated her pace, leaving her cubs behind. After loading again I gave the spurs to my horse and resumed the chase, soon passing the cubs, who were making the most plaintive cries of distress. They were heard by the dam, but she gave no other heed to them than occasionally to halt for an instant, turn around, sit up on her posteriors, and give a hasty look back; but, as soon as she saw me following her, she invariably turned again and redoubled her speed. I pursued about four miles and fired four balls into her before I succeeded in bringing her to the ground, and from the time I first saw her until her death-wound, notwithstanding I was often very close upon her heels, she never came to bay or made the slightest demonstration of resistance. Her sole purpose seemed to be to make her escape, leaving her cubs in the most cowardly manner.

Upon three other different occasions I met the mountain bears, and once the cinnamon species, which is called the most formidable of all, and in none of these instances did they exhibit the slightest indication of anger or resistance, but invariably ran from me.

Such is my experience with this formidable monarch of the mountains. It is possible that if a man came suddenly upon the beast in a thicket, where it could have no previous warning, he might be attacked; but it is my opinion that if the bear gets _the wind_ or sight of a man at any considerable distance, it will endeavor to get away as soon as possible. I am so fully impressed with this idea that I shall hereafter hunt bear with a feeling of as much security as I would have in hunting the buffalo.

The grizzly, like the black bear, hybernates in winter, and makes his appearance in the spring with his claws grown out long and very soft and tender; he is then poor, and unfit for food.

I have heard a very curious fact stated by several old mountaineers regarding the mountain bears, which, of course, I can not vouch for, but it is given by them with great apparent sincerity and candor. They assert that no instance has ever been known of a female bear having been killed in a state of pregnancy. This singular fact in the history of the animal seems most inexplicable to me, unless she remain concealed in her brumal slumber until after she has been delivered of her cubs.

I was told by an old Delaware Indian that when the bear has been traveling against the wind and wishes to lie down, he always turns in an opposite direction, and goes some distance away from his first track before making his bed. If an enemy then comes upon his trail, his keen sense of smell will apprise him of the danger. The same Indian mentioned that when a bear had been pursued and sought shelter in a cave, he had often endeavored to eject him with smoke, but that the bear would advance to the mouth of the cave, where the fire was burning, and put it out with his paws, then retreat into the cave again. This would indicate that Bruin is endowed with some glimpses of reason beyond the ordinary instincts of the brute creation in general, and, indeed, is capable of discerning the connection between cause and effect. Notwithstanding the extraordinary intelligence which this quadruped exhibits upon some occasions, upon others he shows himself to be one of the most stupid brutes imaginable. For example, when he has taken possession of a cavern, and the courageous hunter enters with a torch and rifle, it is said he will, instead of forcibly ejecting the intruder, raise himself upon his haunches and cover his eyes with his paws, so as to exclude the light, apparently thinking that in this situation he can not be seen. The hunter can then approach as close as he pleases and shoot him down.

THE BIG-HORN.

The big-horn or mountain sheep, which has a body like the deer, with the head of a sheep, surmounted by an enormous pair of short, heavy horns, is found throughout the Rocky Mountains, and resorts to the most inaccessible peaks and to the wildest and least-frequented glens. It clambers over almost perpendicular cliffs with the greatest ease and celerity, and skips from rock to rock, cropping the tender herbage that grows upon them.

It has been supposed by some that this animal leaps down from crag to crag, lighting upon his horns, as an evidence of which it has been advanced that the front part of the horns is often much battered. This I believe to be erroneous, as it is very common to see horns that have no bruises upon them.

The old mountaineers say they have often seen the bucks engaged in desperate encounters with their huge horns, which, in striking together, made loud reports. This will account for the marks sometimes seen upon them.

The flesh of the big-horn, when fat, is more tender, juicy, and delicious than that of any other animal I know of, but it is a _bon bouche_ which will not grace the tables of our city epicures until a railroad to the Rocky Mountains affords the means of transporting it to a market a thousand miles distant from its haunts.

In its habits the mountain sheep greatly resembles the chamois of Switzerland, and it is hunted in the same manner. The hunter traverses the most inaccessible and broken localities, moving along with great caution, as the least unusual noise causes them to flit away like a phantom, and they will be seen no more. The animal is gregarious, but it is seldom that more than eight or ten are found in a flock. When not grazing they seek the sheltered sides of the mountains, and repose among the rocks.

ITINERARIES.

LIST OF ITINERARIES:

SHOWING THE DISTANCES BETWEEN CAMPING-PLACES, THE CHARACTER OF THE ROADS, AND THE FACILITIES FOR OBTAINING WOOD, WATER, AND GRASS ON THE PRINCIPAL ROUTES BETWEEN THE MISSISSIPPI RIVER AND THE PACIFIC OCEAN.

No. Page

I. From Fort Smith, Arkansas, to Santa Fe and Albuquerque,
New Mexico. By Captain R. B. Marcy, U.S.A. 257

II. From Fort Leavenworth to Santa Fe, by the way of the upper
ferry of the Kansas River and the Cimarron 260

III. Camping-places upon a road discovered and marked out from Fort Smith, Arkansas, to Dona Ana and El Paso, New Mexico, in 1849. By Captain R. B. Marcy, U.S.A. 263

IV. From Leavenworth City to Great Salt Lake City 266

V. From Salt Lake City to Sacramento and Benicia, California 273

VI. From Great Salt Lake City to Los Angeles and San Francisco,
California 277

VII. From Fort Bridger to the "City of Rocks." From Captain
Handcock's Journal 279

VIII. From Soda Springs to the City of Rocks, known as Hudspeth's
Cut-off 282

IX. Sublet's Cut-off, from the junction of the Salt Lake and
Fort Hall Roads 282

X. From Lawson's Meadows, on the Humboldt River, to Fort Reading, via Rogue River Valley, Fort Lane, Oregon Territory, Yreka, and Fort Jones 283

XI. From Soda Springs to Fort Wallah Wallah and Oregon City,
Oregon, via Fort Hall 285

XII. Route for pack trains from John Day's River to Oregon
City 288

XIII. From Indianola and Powder-horn to San Antonio, Texas 288

XIV. Wagon-road from San Antonio, Texas, to El Paso, N.M., and
Fort Yuma, California 289

XV. From Fort Yuma to San Diego, California 292

XVI. From El Paso, New Mexico, to Fort Yuma, California, via
Santa Cruz 294

XVII. From Westport, Missouri, to the gold diggings at Pike's
Peak and "Cherry Creek," N.T., via the Arkansas River 295

XVIII. From St. Paul's, Min., to Fort Wallah Wallah, Oregon 302

XIX. Lieutenant E. F. Beale's route from Albuquerque to the
Colorado River 307

XX. Captain Whipple's route from Albuquerque, New Mexico, to
San Pedro, California 308

XXI. From Fort Yuma to Benicia, California. From Lieutenant
R. S. Williamson's Report 315

XXII. A new route from Fort Bridger to Camp Floyd, opened by
Captain J. H. Simpson, U.S.A., in 1858 317

XXIII. From Fort Thorne, New Mexico, to Fort Yuma, California 318

XXIV. Lieutenant Bryan's Route from the Laramie Crossing of the
South Platte to Fort Bridger, via Bridger's Pass 320

XXV. Wagon-route from Denver City, at the Mouth of Cherry Creek,
to Fort Bridger, Utah 323

XXVI. From Nebraska City, on the Missouri, to Fort Kearney 326

XXVII. From Camp Floyd, Utah, to Fort Union, New Mexico. By Colonel W. W. Loring, U.S.A. 327

XXVIII. Wagon-route from Guaymas, Mexico, to Tubac, Arizona. From Captain Stone's Journal 333

I.--_From Fort Smith, Arkansas, to Santa Fe and Albuquerque, New Mexico._ By Captain R. B. MARCY, U.S.A.

Miles.

Fort Smith to

15. Strickland's Farm.--The road crosses the Poteau River at Fort
Smith, where there is a ferry; it then follows the Poteau
bottom for ten miles. This part of the road is very muddy
after heavy rains. At 14 miles it passes the Choctaw Agency,
where there are several stores. There is the greatest
abundance of wood, water, and grass at all camps for the first
200 miles. Where any of these are wanting it will be specially
mentioned. The road passes through the Choctaw settlements for
about 150 miles, and corn and supplies can be purchased from
these Indians at reasonable rates.

11. Camp Creek.--Road crosses a prairie of three miles in length,
then enters a heavy forest. The camp is on a small branch,
with grass plenty in a small prairie about 400 yards to the
left of the road.

12. Coon Creek.--Road passes through the timber, and is muddy in
a rainy season.

12. Sans Bois Creek.--Prairie near; some Choctaw houses at the
crossing.

14. Bend of Sans Bois Creek.--Indian farm.

15. South Fork of Canadian, or "Gain's Creek."--Road traverses
a very rough and hilly region. There is a ford and a ferry
upon the creek. Indian farm on the west bank.

12. First ford of Coal Creek.--Road crosses over a rolling
prairie, and at four miles the Fort Washita road turns to the
left.

Second ford of Coal Creek.--Indian farm.

4. Little Cedar Mountain.--Very rough, mountainous road.

6. Stony Point.--Very rough, mountainous road.

5. Shawnee Village.--Several Indian houses.

14. Shawnee Town.--Road passes several small prairies. Indian
settlement; store on opposite bank of Canadian River, near
the camp.

21. Delaware Mountain.--Road passes over a very beautiful country,
with small streams of good water frequent, and good camps. It
crosses small prairies and groves of timber.

5. Boggy River.--Road passes a country similar to that mentioned
above.

3. Clear Creek.--Road turns to the right near a prominent round
mound. Beautiful country, diversified with prairies and
timbered lands.

7. Branch of Topofki Creek.--Beautiful country and fine roads.

9-1/2. Cane Creek.--Excellent camp.

5. Small Branch.--Road passes about two miles from the old "Camp
Arbuckle," built by Captain Marcy in 1853, since occupied by
Black Beaver and several Delaware families.

11-1/2. Mustang Creek.--Road runs on the dividing ridge between the
waters of the Washita and Canadian, on a high prairie.

17-1/2. Choteau's Creek.--Road passes on the high prairie opposite
Choteau's old trading-house, and leaves the outer limits of the
Indian settlements. Excellent road, and good camps at short
distances.

11-3/4. Choteau's Creek.--Road runs up the creek; is smooth and good.

12-3/4. Head of Choteau's Creek.--Road runs up the creek, and is good.

17-1/4. Branch of Washita River.--Road runs over an elevated prairie
country, and passes a small branch at six miles from last camp.

5-3/4. Branch of "Spring Creek."--Good camp.

16. Head of "Spring Creek."--Road traverses a high prairie country,
is smooth and firm.

13. Red Mounds.--Road runs over a high rolling prairie country,
and is excellent.

5. Branch of Washita River.--Good road.

15-3/4. Branch of Canadian.--Road continues on the ridge dividing
the Washita and Canadian rivers; is smooth and firm.

17-3/4. Branch of Washita River.--Road continues on the "divide."

18. Branch of Canadian.--Road continues on the divide from one
to four miles from the Canadian.

19. On Canadian River.--Good road.

16. Little Washita River.--Good road; timber becoming scarce.

13. Branch of Canadian.--Good road.

17-1/2. Antelope Buttes.--Road runs along the Canadian bottom, and
in places is sandy.

14. Rush Lake.--Small pond on the prairie. No wood within half a
mile; some buffalo chips; poor water.

16. Branch of Washita River.--Good road on the divide.

10-1/4. Dry River.--Road descends a very long hill, and crosses the
dry river near the Canadian. Water can be found by digging
about a foot in the sand of the creek. Good grass on the west
bank.

17. Branch of Canadian.--Road winds up a very long and abrupt hill,
but is smooth and firm.

22-1/2. Timbered Creek.--Road passes over a very elevated prairie
country, and descends by a long hill into the beautiful valley
of Timbered Creek.

11-1/2. Spring Branch.--Good camp.

14. Spring Branch.--Good camp.

17-3/4. Branch of Canadian.--Road passes a small branch 3-1/2 miles
from the last camp.

18-3/8. Branch of Canadian.--Road passes a small branch of the
Canadian at 8 miles from the last camp.

17-7/8. Spring Branch.--Good road.

9-1/2. Branch of Canadian.--Good road and camp.

18-1/2. Branch of the Canadian.--Good road and camp.

10-1/4. Pools of Water.--Good camp.

10. Large Pond.--Good camp.

25. Pools of Water.--No wood; water brackish. The road passes
over a very elevated and dry country, without wood or water.

18-1/2. Head of Branch.--At 13-1/2 miles the road crosses a branch
of the Canadian.

19-3/4. Laguna Colorado.--Road here falls into an old Mexican
cart-road. Good springs on the left up the creek, with wood
and grass abundant.

7. Pools of Water.--Road runs through cedars.

10-3/8. Pajarito Creek.--Grass begins to be rather short in places,
but is abundant on the creek.

13-1/2. Gallenas Creek.--Good camp.

15. 2d Gallenas Creek.--Good road.

16-1/2. Pecos River at Anton Chico.--This is the first settlement
after leaving Camp Arbuckle. Corn and vegetables can be
purchased here. Grass is generally short here.

15. Pecos River opposite Questa.--Road runs through the cedar,
and is firm and good. Camp is in sight of the town of Questa,
upon a very elevated bluff.

21-3/4. Laguna Colorado.--Road passes through a wooded country for a
portion of the distance, but leaves it before reaching camp,
where there is no wood, but water generally sufficient for
trains. In very dry seasons it has been known to fail. The
road forks here, the right leading to Santa Fe via Galistio
(45-1/2 miles), and the left to Albuquerque.

22-1/2. San Antonio.--Good road.

18-3/4. Albuquerque.--Good road.

Total distance from Fort Smith to Albuquerque, 814-3/4 miles.

Total distance from Fort Smith to Santa Fe, 819 miles.

* * * * *

II.--_From Fort Leavenworth to Santa Fe, by the way of the upper ferry of the Kansas River and the Cimarron._

[In this table the distances, taken by an odometer, are given in miles and hundredths of a mile. The _measured_ distances between the crossing of the Arkansas and Santa Fe are from Major Kendrick's published table. Wood, water, and grass are found at all points where the absence of them is not stated.]

Miles.

From Fort Leavenworth to

2.88. Salt Creek.

9.59. Stranger's Creek.

13.54. Stranger's Creek.

9.60. Grasshopper Creek.

6.50. Grasshopper Creek.

2.86. Grasshopper Creek.

2.60. Grasshopper Creek.

4.54. Soldier's Creek.

2.45. Upper Ferry, Kansas River.

7.41. Pottawatomie Settlement.

5.75. Pottawatomie Creek.

3.89. White Wakarussi Creek.

7.78. White Wakarussi Creek.

6.27. White Wakarussi Creek.

0.73. Road from Independence.--No place to encamp.

5.72. White Wakarussi Creek.

2.51. White Wakarussi Creek.

2.82. 142-mile Creek.

7.80. Bluff Creek.

5.77. Rock Creek.

5.08. Big John Spring.

2.29. Council Grove.

7.97. Elm Creek.--Water generally.

8.06. Diamond Spring.

1.42. Diamond Creek.

15.46. Lost Spring.--No wood.

9.25. Mud Creek.--Water uncertain; no wood.

7.76. Cottonwood Creek.

6.16. Water Holes.--Water generally; no wood.

12.44. Big Turkey Creek.--No water.

7.83. Little Turkey Creek.--Water uncertain; no wood.

18.19. Little Arkansas River.

10.60. Owl Creek.--Water generally in holes above and below crossing.

6.39. Little Cow Creek.--Water only occasionally.

2.93. Big Cow Creek.--Water holes, 10 miles (estimated). Water
uncertain; no wood.

18.24. Bend of the Arkansas.

6.66. Walnut Creek.

16.35. Pawnee Rock.--Teams sometimes camp near here, and drive stock
to the Arkansas to water. No wood.

5.28. Ash Creek.--Water above and below crossing, uncertain.

6.65. Pawnee Fork.--Best grass some distance above crossing.

From Pawnee Fork to the lower crossing of the Arkansas, a
distance of 98-1/2 miles, convenient camping-places can be
found along the Arkansas; the most prominent localities are
therefore only mentioned. A supply of fuel should be laid in
at Pawnee Fork to last till you pass Fort Mann, though it may
be obtained, but inconveniently, from the _opposite_ side of
the Arkansas. Dry Route branches off at 3-1/2 miles (estimated).
This route joins the main one again 10 miles this side of Fort
Mann. It is said to be a good one, but deficient in water and
without wood.

11.43. Coon Creek.

46.58. Jackson's Island.

5.01. Dry Route comes in.

10.05. Fort Mann.

25.34. Lower Crossing of the Arkansas.--The Bent's Fort Route
branches off at this point. For the distances upon this route,
see next table. A supply of wood should be got from this
vicinity to last till you reach Cedar Creek.

15.68. Water-hole.--Water uncertain; no wood.

30.02. Two Water-holes.--Water uncertain; no wood.

14.14. Lower Cimarron Springs.--No wood.

20.00. Pools of Water.--Water uncertain; no wood.

19.02. Middle Springs of the Cimarron.--No wood.

12.93. Little Crossing of the Cimarron.--No wood.

14.10. Upper Cimarron Springs.--No wood. Pools of water, 7 miles
(estimated). No wood.

19.05. Cold Spring.--A tree here and there in the vicinity. Pools of
water, 11 miles (estimated). Water uncertain; no wood.

16.13. Cedar Creek.--M'Nees' Creek, 10 miles (estimated). Water
indifferent and uncertain; scant pasture; no wood. Arroyo
del la Sena, 2-1/2 miles (estimated). No water.

21.99. Cottonwood Creek.--No water. Arroyo del Burro, 5 miles
(estimated).

15.17. Rabbit-ear Creek.--10 miles (estimated), springs. Round Mound,
8 miles (estimated). No water; no wood; no camping-place. Rock
Creek, 10 miles (estimated). Grazing scant; no wood.

26.40. Whetstone Creek.--Spring; no wood. Arroyo Don Carlos, 10-1/2
miles (estimated). Water, etc., to the left of the road.

14.13. Point of Rocks.--Water and grass _up the canon_, just after
crossing the _point_; scattering shrub cedars on the
neighboring heights.

16.62. Sandy Arroyo.--Water uncertain; no wood. Crossing of Canadian
River, 4-3/4 miles (estimated). Grazing above the crossing;
willows.

10.05. Rio Ocate.--Wood 1/3 of a mile to right of road; grass in
the canon. Pond of water, 13-1/2 miles (estimated). No wood.

19.65. Wagon Mound.--Santa Clara Springs. Wood brought from the Rio
Ocate. Rio del Perro (Rock Creek), 17-1/2 miles (estimated).

21.62. Canon del Lobo.--Rio Moro, 3-1/2 miles (estimated). Rio
Sapillo, 1 mile (estimated). The Bent's Fort Route comes in here.

18.00. Las Vegas.--Forage purchasable.

13.05. Tacolote.--Forage purchasable. Ojo Vernal, 5 miles (estimated).
No grass to speak of.

14.00. San Miguel.--Forage purchasable; no grass.

21.81. Ruins of Pecos.--Grazing very scant. Cottonwood Creek, 4-1/2
miles (estimated). Water uncertain; no grass.

13.41. Stone Corral.--No grass.

10.80. Santa Fe.--Forage purchasable; no grazing.

* * * * *

III.--_Camping-places upon a road discovered and marked out from Fort Smith, Arkansas, to Dona Ana and El Paso, New Mexico, in 1849._ By Captain R. B. MARCY, U.S.A.

Miles.

Fort Smith to

65. South Fork of the Canadian.--The road from Fort Smith to the
South Fork of the Canadian follows the same track as the road
to Albuquerque and Santa Fe, and by reference to the tables of
distances for that road the intermediate camps will be found.

15. Prior's Store.--Grass, wood, and water near.

17-1/2. Little Boggy.--Good camp. Wherever there are not the requisites
of wood, water, and grass for encamping, it will be specially
noted; when they are not mentioned they will always be found.

13. Little Boggy.--Good camp.

15-1/2. Boggy Depot.--Store and blacksmith's shop.

12-3/5. Blue River.--The road passes over a flat section, which
is muddy after rains.

8-1/2. Fort Washita.--Good camp half a mile before reaching the fort.
The road forks at the Indian village on the Boggy, the left
being the most direct. There are settlers along the road, who
will give all necessary information to strangers. Corn plenty.

22. Preston Texas, on Red River.--The road from Fort Washita runs
through the Indian settlements, passing many places where good
camps may be found, and crosses the Red River at Preston. There
is a ferry here; also stores and a blacksmith's shop.

20. M'Carty's.--Road runs through a heavy-timbered country,
crossing several streams where there are good camps.

14-2/5. Elm Fork of the Trinity, at Gainesville.--Road passes over a
section diversified by prairies and groves of timber.

12. Elm Fork of Trinity.--Good camp.

11. Elm Fork of Trinity.--Excellent camps. Road passes over a
beautiful country rapidly settling up with farmers, who
cultivate and sell grain at low rates.

9. Turkey Creek.--Tributary of Red River. Road emerges from the
upper "Cross Timbers" two miles from camp.

26-3/4. Buffalo Springs.--Springs of good water, but of limited
amount, in a ravine.

12. On a Ravine.--Pools of good water and a small running stream,
not reliable.

13-1/2. On a Ravine.--Pools of water.

17-1/4. On a Ravine.--Pools of water.

17-1/4. Running branch of Cottonwood Spring.--Branch about two feet
wide, good water; wood about half a mile distant.

14. Fort Belknap.--Good road through post-oak timber. County seat
and town at Fort Belknap. Good camp on the west side of the
Brazos, which is always fordable except in very high water.

14. Small Branch.--Water in holes.

18. Water-holes.--Pools of water. Road passes over prairie and
timbered lands, is very smooth and level.

7-1/2. Stem's Farm, on Clear Fork of the Brazos River.--Good road;
excellent camp, with abundance of wood, water, and grass.
Indian reservation here.

13. Elm Creek, or Qua-qua-ho-no.--Good road over rolling prairie
and mesquite lands.

17. Ravine.--Pools of standing water. Good road.

18. Ravine.--Pools of standing water. Good road.

27. Small Creek.--Tributary of the Brazos. Good road.

6. Pools of Water.--Good camp.

8-1/2. Small Branch.--Good water.

20-1/2. Tributary of the Colorado.--Brackish water.

3-1/4. Rio Colorado.--Brackish water. Road very excellent.

12-1/10. Spring on the Road.--Good water.

22-9/10. Big spring to the left of the road, affording a great amount
of water, which runs off in a small stream.

23. Laguna Colorado.--Water somewhat sulphurous; fuel mesquite
roots; grass abundant.

35. Mustang Pond.--This pond is north of the road about two
miles, and was found in 1849, but emigrants and others have
not been able to find it since. For this reason I would advise
travelers to fill their water-kegs at the Laguna Colorado, as
in a very dry season they might not be able to get any water
until they reach the Sand Hills. The road is excellent over
the "Llano Estacado," or Staked Plain.

34-1/2. Sand Hills.--Water in holes. The water is good here, and can
always be relied on as permanent. The road through the Sand
Hills is very heavy, and I would advise travelers with loaded
wagons to make half loads.

31-1/2. Laguna near the Pecos River.--Road passes through the hills,
and descends the high prairie to the valley of the Pecos.
Laguna on the left.

15-5/8. Crossing of Pecos.--Water deep and not fordable; river 42
yards wide. A road leads up the eastern bank of the Pecos to
a ford with rock bottom. Good camps can be had at almost any
point on the Pecos. The water is brackish, but can be used
without harm.

54-1/2. Pecos River.--Point of the river where the road turns off
toward Delaware Creek.

9-1/8. Delaware Creek.--Good road after leaving the Pecos River.
The road on the Pecos is good in the bottom in very dry
weather, but after heavy rains it is submerged and very muddy.
Travelers should then turn off to the bluffs. The water in
Delaware Creek is brackish.

11-7/8. Ojo de San Martin.--Fine spring of fresh water, also mineral
spring. Good road up Delaware Creek.

15-3/10. Independence Spring.--Large spring of excellent water. Look
out for Indians.

5-1/10. Ojo del Camins.--Good spring in the pine timber at the base
of the mountain.

4-1/2. Peak of the Guadalupe.--Spring at the foot of the mountain.
Road descends the mountain, and is very steep.

23-7/8. Ojo del Cuerbo.--Road descends through a very rough and
sinuous ravine, and crosses a long prairie to camp at a
pond of standing water. No wood.

26. Cornudas (Wells).--Well in the rocks; plenty of water for
small parties. Road good.

8-3/4. Sierra del Alamo.--Road good; water limited in quantity.
There is a small spring upon the side of the
mountain. No wood except a few mesquite roots.

22-1/4. Waco Tanks.--Good water in a large reservoir in the rocks.
The road here branches, the left leading to El Paso and the
right to Dona Ana.

28. El Paso, on the Rio del Norte.--Road good, with some sand;
no water upon it.

The distance from the "Waco Tanks" to Dona Ana is 63 miles,
but 40 miles of the road is over heavy sand, and no water
until reaching the mountain, 25 miles from Dona Ana. I would
recommend travelers to take the El Paso road in preference.

Total distance from Fort Smith to El Paso, 860 miles.

* * * * *

IV.--_From Leavenworth City to Great Salt Lake City._

Miles.

Leavenworth City to

3. Salt Creek.--Good camp; wood, water, and grass.

12. Cold Spring.--To the right of the road, in a deep ravine,
plenty of wood, water, and grass.

12. Small Branch.--To the north of the road, in an arroya,
good wood, water, and grass. Here enters the road from
Atcheson, 6 miles distant.

16-2/3. Grasshopper Creek.--Good wood, water, and grass.

9-1/2. Walnut Creek.--Road passes a town called Whitehead, 4
miles from last camp. Water in pools, but 3/4 of a mile
below is a fine spring; plenty of wood, water, and grass.

17. Grasshopper Creek.--Good camp, with wood, water, and
grass.

12-1/2. Big Nemehaw, two miles above Richland.--Good wood, water,
and grass near the creek.

11. Water-holes.--On the ridge, at the head of a ravine, are
wood, water, and grass, but in a dry time there would
be but little water.

10-3/4. Vermilion Creek.--Water in the creek not good, but there
is a good well of cold water near the road. Wood and grass
good.

21-1/2. Big Blue River.--Upper crossing, good ford; plenty of wood,
water, and grass. Fine clear stream, 60 yards wide.

17-1/2. Branch of the Big Blue.--Camp half a mile north of the
road; good wood, water, and grass.

15. Turkey, or Rock Creek.--Good spring 400 yards to the north
of the road. Store at the crossing. Good wood, water, and
grass.

19. Big Sandy.--Wood, water, and grass good.

19. Little Blue River.--Road runs across the hills without
water until reaching camp. Good wood, water, and grass.

18-3/4. Little Blue River.--Camp is at the point where the road
turns off from the creek. Good camps may be found any where
on the Little Blue, with excellent wood, water, and grass.
Fine running stream.

15. Little Blue River.--Road strikes the creek again, and
keeps it to the camp. Good wood, water, and grass.

19. Elm Creek.--Road leaves the Little Blue, and runs along
a divide to the head of Elm Creek, where we found water
in holes, with some few trees; grass good.

20. Platte River.--Road crosses one small branch, where there
is water except in a dry season. Good camp on the Platte,
with wood, water, and grass.

15. Fort Kearney.--Good camp about two miles from the fort,
upon the Platte, either above or below; grass, wood, and
water abundant.

17. Platte River--Road runs along the river, where there is
plenty of grass, and occasionally a few cottonwood-trees.
Here the buffalo generally begin to be seen, and the
traveler can always get a plenty of buffalo-chips along
in this section.

16-3/4. On Plum Creek.--Road runs along the Platte to Plum Creek,
where there is a little wood, with good grass and water.
Mail station at the crossing of Plum Creek.

22-1/3. On Platte River.--Road runs along the Platte bottom
after crossing Plum Creek, and is good except in wet
weather. The road occasionally comes near the Platte,
and, although the timber becomes thin, yet places are
found where fuel can be obtained. Grass is plenty at
all points.

23. On Platte River.--Road continues along the river valley
over a flat country where the water stands in ponds,
and is boggy in wet weather. Camps occasionally on
the river, but little fuel. Grass and water good.

14. On Platte River.--Road continues along the valley, with
the same character as before, but more timber. Camp
opposite Brady's Island. Plenty of wood, water, and
grass.

17-1/4. Slough.--On the Prairie. Road runs from one to three
miles from the river. No wood all day; plenty of grass,
and buffalo-chips for cooking.

15-1/4. Platte River.--Road crosses O'Fallon's Bluffs, where there
is a good camping-place on the right of the road. Plenty
of wood, water, and grass on a small stream, which is part
of the Platte. Mail station here.

16-1/2. South Platte River.--Road runs along the Platte, with no
timber. Good grass and water at any point, with buffalo-chips
for fuel.

17. South Platte River.--No timber all day. Good water and grass
at all points, with buffalo-chips.