Chapter VII (2)

8. South Platte Crossing.--No wood all day. Good water and
grass, with buffalo-chips. The river is about 600 yards wide,
rapid, with quicksand bottom, but can be forded when not above
a medium stage. It is best to send a footman ahead to
ascertain the depth of water before crossing the wagons and
animals.

19. Ash Hollow, at North Platte River.--Road leaves the South Fork
of the Platte, and strikes over the high prairie for 16 miles,
when it descends the high bluffs bordering the valley of the
North Platte, and enters Ash Hollow, where there is a plenty
of wood and a small spring of water. Half a mile beyond this
the road reaches the river. Mail station and a small grocery
here.

16-3/4. North Platte.--Very sandy road; no wood; grass and water
plenty at all points; buffalo-chips sufficient for cooking.

17. North Platte.--Road sandy in places; no wood; good grass
and water; some buffalo-chips.

16-1/2. North Platte.--Road good; no wood; good grass and water;
cattle-chips in places.

18-3/4. North Platte.--No wood. Camp opposite "Chimney Rock,"
which is a very peculiar formation on the south of the road,
and resembles a chimney. Grass good. Road muddy after rains.

17-1/2. North Platte.--No wood; grass and water good.

16. "Horse Creek," branch of the North Platte.--In seven
miles the road passes through Scott's Bluffs, where there is
generally water in the first ravine about 200 yards below the
road. The road then descends the mountain, at the foot of
which is the Platte and a mail station. A little wood can be
obtained at Scott's Bluffs; there is none on Horse Creek.

14-1/4. North Platte.--Road follows the river bottom all day.
Wood, water, and grass on the river.

12. Fort Laramie.--Road rough and rocky in places. There are
wood and water plenty, and before many trains have passed the
grass is good above the fort. Mail station and post-office
here, with a sutler's store well stocked with such articles as
the traveler wants.

10. North Platte.--Road good, but hilly in places. Camp is in
the river bottom, with plenty of wood, water, and grass. Hot
spring two miles above here.

14. Bitter Creek.--There are two roads, both of which lead to
Salt Lake. The upper or south road is best in the spring or in
wet weather. I traveled the lower road. Wood, water, and grass
are good.

17-3/4. Horse-shoe Creek.--Fine camp, with excellent wood, water,
and grass. The road here forks, one passing to the left over
the hills, and the other running nearer the Platte.

20-1/2. North Platte River.--Good road along near the river. Good
wood, water, and grass. Road crosses the river at 12-1/2
miles.

20-1/4. North Platte River.--Road crosses the river again, and the
camp is two miles above the mouth of La Prell Creek. Good
wood, water, and grass.

19. North Platte River.--Road runs along the river, and is
smooth and good. The camp is two miles above the crossing of
Deer Creek, where there is a blacksmith's shop and store. Good
grass, wood, and water.

16. North Platte River.--Good road, with wood, water, and grass
at camp.

13. North Platte River.--Good road passing the bridge, where
there is a blacksmith's shop and store, also a military
station and a mail station. At two miles from camp the road
crosses the river on a good ford with rocky bottom. The wood,
water, and grass are abundant.

23. Red Buttes, on the North Platte.--Road is very hilly, and
in some places sandy; passes Willow Spring, where there is
grass and a little wood. Good wood, water, and grass at camp.
Mail station here.

11. Sweet Water Creek.--Road leaves the river at the Red Buttes,
and strikes over the high rolling prairie. Good grass and
water, but little wood at camp.

15. On Sweet Water Creek.--Road passes a blacksmith's shop and
store at the bridge six miles from camp, and at 2-1/2 miles
from the camp it passes the "Devil's Gate" and a mail station.
The Sweet Water here runs between two perpendicular cliffs,
presenting a most singular and striking appearance. Take wood
at the Gate for camp. Good grass and water at all places on
Sweet Water Creek.

20. Sweet Water Creek.--Road muddy after rains, and some bad
ravines to cross. Wood, water, and grass of the best quality
at camp.

12. Sweet Water Creek.--Road runs along the valley of the Sweet
Water, where there is plenty of wood and grass in places, but
little wood at the camp noted.

8. On Sweet Water.--Road good; no wood; grass abundant.

20. On Sweet Water.--Road good; no wood.

17. Strawberry Creek.--Little wood; grass and water abundant.
Road leaves "Sweet Water," and ascends a very long hill which
is very rocky.

20-1/4. South Pass.--Road crosses the dividing ridge, and strikes
the Pacific Spring, where there is excellent water and good
grass if many cattle have not passed, in which event the
traveler had better continue on down the creek which issues
from the spring. Sage for fuel; no wood.

15-3/4. Dry Sandy Creek.--Grass scarce; no wood; some sage and
greasewood; water brackish, but drinkable; road good. Here the
traveler should send ahead and have the best spots of grass
found, as it is very scarce throughout this section. Sublett's
Cut-off turns off here for Soda Springs and Fort Hall. Take
the left for Fort Bridger and Salt Lake City.

15. Little Sandy Creek.--Grass in spots along the creek bottom,
and some fuel.

18. Big Sandy Creek.--Grass in detached spots on the creek, and
little fuel.

21-1/2. Green River, Upper Ford.--Grass and fuel on the river.

7. Green River, at the Lower Ford.--Good grass and fuel below
the ford. Ferry in time of high water. Mail station and
grocery.

16. Black's Fork.--Good grass and fuel.

7. Ham's Fork.--United States bridge, no toll. Good grass
and fuel.

12. Black's Fork.--Road forks at the crossing of Black's Fork,
both roads leading to Fort Bridger. This itinerary is upon
the left-hand road, which crosses Black's Fork two miles
from Ham's Fork.

13. Smith's Fork.--Good camps along Black's Fork at any place,
but the road leaves the stream for several miles. Wood,
water, and grass at the confluence of Black's and Smith's
Forks.

18-1/4. Fort Bridger.--Good camps above and below the fort.
Military post, mail station, and store.

Muddy Creek.--Good grass, wood, and water. Grass short after
many trains have passed. It is then necessary to go up the
creek to find good grass. Road passes a fine spring 3 miles
back.

19. Bear River.--Good camps, with wood, water, and grass.

Good ford, except in very high water. Sulphur Creek two miles
back.

19. Red Fork.--In "Echo Canon," two miles below Cashe Cave,
good grass and fuel; water plenty.

19-1/4. Weber River.--Good grass, wood, and water. Mail station.
United States bridge for high water; no toll.

5-1/4. Spring Branch.--Good camp. Road leaves the river, and takes
the left into a valley.

9. Bauchmin's Creek.--Road crosses over a mountain, and
descends to the creek, where there is a good camp.

14. Big Canon Creek.--Road crosses Bauchmin's Creek 13 times
in 8 miles, then ascends the mountain along a small creek,
which is well wooded and good grass.

6. Emigration Creek.--Road leaves Canon Creek, and crosses the
two mountains, which are very steep and long. Grass and wood
before crossing the "Little Mountain."

10-1/4. Great Salt Lake City.--Forage can be purchased here, as well
as most of the articles the traveler may require, at high
prices. There is no camping-place within two miles of the
city. It is best for those who encamp with animals to cross
the Jordan River, or to stop near the mouth of the canon
before entering the city.

Total distance from Fort Leavenworth to Salt Lake City, 1168 miles.

* * * * *

V.--_From Salt Lake City to Sacramento and Benicia, California._

Miles.

From Salt Lake City to

18. Hait's Ranch.--Good road, and grass abundant until Bear
River is crossed.

17-1/4. Ford on Weber River.--Good road, and grass abundant.

15. Point of Mountain.--Spring water warm but pure.

12-3/4. Box Elder Creek.--Excellent water; grass and fuel
abundant in the canons.

23. Ferry on Bear River.--Four miles above the usual crossing.
Excellent grass.

3/4. West Bank.--Grass not good on the west bank.

6. Small Spring.--Cross Bear River below the mouth of the
Mallade.

17-1/2. Blue Springs.--Water and grass scarce, and of poor quality.

21-1/4. Deep Creek.--Heavy sage, but good grass on the right of the
road, near sink.

20-1/2. Cedar Springs.--Good grass on the hills, with fine water
and wood; rolling country.

10. Rock Creek.--Plenty of grass to the left of the road; good
camping-place.

14-1/2. Raft River.--Good camp.

22-1/2. Goose Creek Mountains.--Grass, wood, and water abundant;
rough and mountainous country. Road from Fort Bridger comes
in here _via_ Soda Springs.

17-3/4. On Goose Creek.--Rough, broken country, with a good road,
which runs along the creek for several miles.

28-1/2. Head of 1000 Spring Valley.--Road runs over a rolling,
barren section, with but little water except on the river
far to the right.

25-3/4. 1000 Spring Valley.--Meadow grass; good fuel scarce. Camps
can be found at short intervals along the road.

14. Head of Humboldt River.--Fine camping-places, and road
generally good, running over a rolling country.

23. Slough of the Humboldt.--Extensive bottoms of good grass.

20. Humboldt River.--Along the entire course of the Humboldt
good grass is found in the bottoms. The road, which follows
the bottom, is hard and smooth, but can not be traveled in
seasons of very high water, as the bottom overflows. It is
then necessary to take the road on the bluffs, where the grass
is scarce. The river, when not above a fording stage, can be
forded at almost any point, and good camps can be found at
short intervals. There are spots along the river bottom where
alkaline ponds are frequent. These are poisonous to cattle,
and should be avoided by travelers. It is well along this
river not to allow animals to drink any water except from the
river where it is running.

20. Humboldt River.--The foregoing remarks apply for every camp
on the Humboldt River.

22. Humboldt River.--Good camps along the Humboldt Valley.

23. Humboldt River.

13-1/2. Humboldt River.

16-1/2. Humboldt River.

25. Humboldt River.

13-3/4. Humboldt River.

24. Humboldt River.

24-1/2. Humboldt River.

20-1/4. Humboldt River.

18-3/4. Humboldt River.

13-1/2. Humboldt River.

18-1/4. Lawson's Meadows.--The road here forks, the left going by
the Carson Valley and Sacramento route, and the right _via_
Goose, Clear, and Rhett lakes, Applegate's Pass of the Cascade
Mountains, into Rogue River Valley, Fort Law, Oregon
Territory, Yreka, Fort Jones, Fort Reading, and Sacramento
River.

33-1/2. On Humboldt River.--Grass and water poor all the distance
to the Sink of the Humboldt.

19-1/2. Sink of Humboldt River.--The water at the Sink is strongly
impregnated with alkali; the road generally is good. Travelers
should not allow their stock to drink too freely of this
water.

26. Head Sink of Humboldt.--Road good.

45. Carson River.--Road crosses the desert, where there is no
water for stock, but there is a well where travelers can
purchase water for drinking. This part of the road should be
traveled in the cool of the day and at night. Grass good, also
the water.

2. Carson River.--Good bunch-grass near the road.

30. Carson River.--26 miles of desert; poor grass.

14. Eagle Ranch.--Good grass and water.

13. Reese's Ranch.--Good grass and water.

12. Williams' Ranch.--Very good water and grass.

15. Hope Valley.--Road rough and rocky.

3. Near Sierra.--Good camp, with water and grass.

7. First Summit.--Road rough and rocky; good water; grass
scarce.

2. Second Summit.--Road mountainous and very steep; snow nearly
all the year.

10. Lakes.--Good camp.

12. Leek Springs.--Good grass near the road.

10. Trader's Creek.--Grass and fuel scarce.

12. Sly Park.--Grass and fuel near the road.

Forty Mile House.--Water plenty; grass scarce.

Sacramento Valley.--Water plenty; purchase forage.

Sacramento City.--Water plenty; purchase forage.

Total distance from Salt Lake City to Benicia, 973 miles.

* * * * *

At the Big Meadows, 23 miles from the Sink of the Humboldt, travelers should make a halt of a day or two to rest and recruit their animals and to cut grass for crossing the desert, as this is the last good camping-place until reaching Carson River. The ground near this place is boggy, and animals should be watered with buckets. The camping-ground here is on the right bank of the river, and about half a mile to the left of the main road. The water is in a slough, near its head, where will be found some springs which run off a short distance, but soon sink.

The road across the desert is very sandy, especially toward the western extremity. Twenty miles from the Sink of the Humboldt there are four wells. About half a mile east of the mail station the road leading to the wells turns to the right, where water can be purchased for from one to two shillings for each man and beast.

At 9-1/2 miles beyond the mail station, on the desert, a road turns off from the main trace toward a very high sandy ridge, and directly upon the top of this ridge is the crater of an extinct volcano, at the bottom of which is a salt lake. Upon the extreme north end of this lake will be found a large spring of fresh water, sufficient for 1000 animals. From thence to "Ragtown," on Carson River, is three miles.

I would advise travelers, when their animals become exhausted before reaching this water, to take them out of harness and drive them to this place to recruit. There is some grass around the lake.

This desert has always been the most difficult part of the journey to California, and more animals have probably been lost here than at any other place. The parts of wagons that are continually met with here shows this most incontestably.

* * * * *

VI.--_From Great Salt Lake City to Los Angeles and San Francisco, California._

Miles.

Salt Lake City to

20-5/8. Willow Creek.--Good grass.

14. American Creek.--Good grass.

11-1/2. Provo City.--Town.

7-1/4. Hobble Creek.--Good camp.

6. Spanish Fork.--Good camp.

5. Peteetneet.--Good camp.

25. Salt Creek.--Several small streams between. Good camp.

18-5/8. Toola Creek.--Ford. No wood; grass good.

6-1/4. Sevier River.--Road is sandy, passing over a high ridge.
Good camp.

25-1/2. Cedar Creek.--Road rather mountainous and sandy. Good grass
and wood.

17-1/2. Creek.--This is the fourth stream south of Sevier River.
Road crosses two streams. Good camp.

3-5/8. Willow Flats.--The water sinks a little east of the road.

25. Spring.--Good grass and water.

22-1/4. Sage Creek.--Grass poor; wood and water.

5-1/8. Beaver Creek.--Good wood, water, and grass.

27-1/4. North Canon Creek.--In Little Salt Lake Valley. Good grass;
no wood. The road is rough and steep for six miles.

5-3/8. Creek.--Good wood, water, and grass.

6-3/4. Creek.--Good wood, water, and grass.

12-7/8. Cottonwood Creek.--Good grass and water.

9. Cedar Springs.--Good camp.

23. Pynte Creek.--Good grass one mile up the canon.

9. Road Springs.--Road is rough; good camp.

16. Santa Clara.--Road descending and rough; poor grass.
From this point to Cahoon Pass look out for Indians.

17-1/8. Camp Springs.--Two miles before reaching the springs the
road leaves the Santa Clara. Good grass.

22-7/8. Rio Virgin.--Road crosses over the summit of a mountain.
Good road; grass poor.

39-5/8. Rio Virgin.--Road runs down the Rio Virgin, crossing it
ten times. Grass good down the river.

19-5/8. Muddy Creek.--Road for half a mile is very steep and
sandy. Good camp.

52-5/8. Las Vegas.--Water is sometimes found 2-1/2 miles west of
the road in holes 23 miles from the Muddy, and some grass
about a mile from the road. Good camp.

5. On Vegas.--Road runs up the river. Good grass.

17. Cottonwood Spring.--Poor grass.

29-3/4. Cottonwood Grove.--No grass. Water and grass can be found
four miles west by following the old Spanish trail to a
ravine, and thence to the left in the ravine one mile.

21-3/4. Resting Springs.--Good grass and water. Animals should be
rested here before entering the desert.

7. Spring.--The spring is on the left of the road, and flows
into Saleratus Creek. Animals must not be allowed to drink the
Saleratus water.

14-1/8. Salt Springs.--Poor grass and no fresh water.

38-3/4. Bitter Springs.--Good road; poor grass.

30-3/4. Mohave River.--Good road and good grass.

51-1/2. On the Mohave.--Last ford. Good grass all the way up the
Mohave.

17. Cahoon Pass.--At the summit.

10. Camp.--Road bad down the canon.

11-1/2. Coco Mongo Ranch.

10. Del Chino Ranch.--Williams.

19-3/8. San Gabriel River.

6. San Gabriel Mission.

8-1/4. Pueblo de los Angeles.

65-3/4. Santa Clara River.--_On the Coast Route._ Good camps to
San Jose.

7-1/2. Buena Ventura Mission and River.--Road here strikes the
Pacific shore.

26. Santa Barbara.--Town.

45-3/4. San Yenness River.--At the Mission.

78-7/8. Santa Margareta.--Old Mission.

28-3/8. San Miguel.--Old Mission.

24-3/4. San Antonio River.

26-3/4. Rio del Monterey.

15-5/8. Solida Mission.--At the ford of Rio del Monterey.

37-1/2. San Juan Mission.

33. San Jose Pueblo.

75. San Francisco.

* * * * *

VII.--_From Fort Bridger to the "City of Rocks."_ From Captain Handcock's Journal.

Miles.

Fort Bridger to

9. Little Muddy Creek.--Water brackish in pools along the creek;
tall bunch-grass; sage for fuel. Road runs over a barren
section, is rough, and passes one steep hill.

12-1/3. Big Muddy Creek.--The road, with the exception of two or
three bad gullies, is good for ten miles; it then follows the
Big Muddy bottom, which is flat and boggy. The camp is three
miles above the crossing. Some grass; sage for fuel.

14-1/5. Small Branch of the Muddy Creek.--Cross the river in three
miles at a bad ford. A mile above camp the grass is good. Road
generally good.

19-1/2. On Small Creek.--Road continues up the Muddy 9-1/2 miles to
its head. It then ascends to the divide between Bear and Green
Rivers, probably 800 feet, in 1-3/5 miles. The descent on the
other side is about the same. The road passes many fine
springs. At one and two miles back it passes points of hills,
where it is very rough. Good grass and sage at camp.

8-9/10. Bear River.--Bad creek to cross near the camp; thence to Bear
River Valley the road is good. It then follows down the river,
crossing Willow Creek. Good camp, with a large, fine spring.

17. Bear River.--Good road along the river; plenty of wood,
water, and grass at all points.

Foot of Grant's Mountain.--Road runs along Bear River; at
2-1/2 miles strikes Smith's Fork, a rapid trout stream. The
road crosses the lower ford. A few miles farther on is a bad
slough, which can be avoided by taking a round on the hills.
Cross Thomas's Fork on a bridge, also a slough near it; toll
$2.00 for each team and wagon. The road then leaves Bear River
Valley, and turns over a very steep hill. Good grass, wood,
and water.

12. Bear River.--Road ascends Grant's Mountain 1200 feet in 1-1/2
miles--double teams--then descends again into Bear River
Valley at 4-4/5 miles. Good wood, water, and grass.

17-2/5. Indian Creek.--Road crosses eight fine spring branches;
camp is on a beautiful trout stream. Good wood, water, and
grass.

11. Spring near Bear River.--Road is hilly, crossing two
spring branches. Good wood, water, and grass. The camp is on
the left and near the road.

11. Bear River.--At 6-7/10 miles the road strikes a large
group of springs called "Soda Springs," and here crosses Pine
Creek, on the left bank of which is a saleratus lake. Soon
after it strikes the main springs, and after crossing another
creek the "Steam-boat Spring" may be seen in the bed of the
river.

15. "Port Neuf," or Rock Creek.--At 2-3/10 miles the road leaves
Bear River near where it runs through a canon with high bluffs
on each side. At this point the California and Fort Hall roads
separate. The California road (called Hudspeth's Cut-off) then
crosses a valley between the Bear River and Port Neuf River
Mountains, 9 miles. No water from camp to camp. Good camp.

15. Marsh Creek.--About two miles above the main road the creek
can be forded; a road leads to it from the descent into the
valley. Road good; water and grass plenty; no wood.

16-1/5. Paunack Creek.--First part of the road is hilly; the remainder
good. Good camp.

7-1/5. Mallade River.--At 7-1/5 miles the road crosses the Mallade
River. Good camp 140 miles from Salt Lake City. Good road.

22-3/10. Small Creek.--The road ascends a ridge through a canon, and
descends to a valley on the other side. From the camp to the
summit of the ridge is 6-1/5 miles. The descent is 3-7/10
miles. It then crosses a valley 8 miles wide, and strikes a
canon which leads to the top of a hill over a rough road.
Plenty of wood, water, and grass at camp, but no water between
this and the last camp.

9-3/5. Small Creek.--Road after five miles strikes a canon with a
long but gentle ascent. Two miles from the entrance of this
canon is a spring branch. There is wood and some grass and
water at this place.

11-1/5. Spring Branch.--The road passes through a canon, and at 5
miles strikes the head of a spring branch, which it follows
down 2-1/2 miles to the junction with a larger branch, which
is bridged. At nine tenths of a mile another fork enters.
Grass very fine here. Road follows down this across the main
branch, and the camp is 2 miles below. Good camp.

18-1/2. Decassure Creek, or Raft River.--Road continues down the
creek 2-3/10 miles, and crosses, then ascends by a steep hill
to an elevated sage plain, leaving the creek at 11-4/5 miles,
and passes a slough with water. Good camp.

17-9/10. Spring Branch.--The road crosses the creek near the last
camp, and follows up a valley, crossing in five miles several
spring branches. At 2-9/10 miles it crosses the creek again,
and follows up the valley two miles farther, then crosses a
high sage plain 8-9/10 miles long, when it strikes a spring
150 yards to the left of the road, where there is an excellent
camp in a beautiful valley.

10. Junction of Salt Lake City Road.--Road passes several small
branches in 3 miles, then commences ascending through a canon
which, in 2-1/5 miles, leads to the entrance to the "City of
Rocks," and passes through these for three miles. It then
crosses a ridge, leaving the City of Rocks, and at ten miles
from last camp intersects the road from "Salt Lake City." At
1-2/5 miles beyond this a road leads off to the right to a
spring branch, 3 miles, where there is a good camp near the
foot of Goose Creek Mountain. From this point California
travelers can refer to the itinerary of the route from Salt
Lake City to Sacramento.

* * * * *

VIII.--_From Soda Springs to the City of Rocks, known as Hudspeth's Cut-off._

Miles.

Soda Springs to

20. Bear River.--The road runs down Bear River, crossing
some small streams. Good camp.

10. Portner Creek.--Camp at the head of the creek. Good wood,
water, and grass.

12. Fork of Portner Creek.--Good camp.

15. Pauack Creek.--Road crosses a summit. Good road and camp.

12. Snake Spring.--Good camp.

12. Utha Spring.--Good camp.

15. Decassure Creek.--Road crosses a small stream; rather bad
crossing. Good camp.

18. City of Rocks.--Junction of Salt Lake road. Good camp.

* * * * *

IX.--_Sublets Cut-off, from the junction of the Salt Lake and Fort Hall Roads._

Miles.

_Junction_ to

7. Big Sandy.

44. Green River.--From the Big Sandy to Green River (upper road)
there is an abundance of grass in places along the road, but
no water.

6. Small Creek.--The road runs up the creek. Good grass.

4. On the Creek.--Good grass and water.

12. Small Spring.--The spring is on the left of the road. Good
grass.

9. Ham's Fork.--Good wood, water, and grass.

6. Spring.--On the summit of a mountain. Good grass.

6. Muddy Creek.--Wood, water, and grass.

10. Spring.--In Bear River Valley. Good wood, water, and grass.

6. Smith's Fork.--In Bear, River Valley. Good wood, water;
and grass.

10. Tomaus' Fork.--Road runs down Bear River. Good wood, water,
and grass.

7. Spring Creek.--Wood, water, and grass.

7. Smith's Ford.--Road crosses over a spur of the mountain;
long and gradual ascent; descent rather abrupt. Good wood,
water, and grass.

8. Telleck's Fork.--Road runs down Bear River. Good camp.

4. Small Creek.--Good camp.

4. Small Creek.--Good camp.

7. Small Creek.--Good camp.

12. Soda Springs.--Left side of the road, among some cedars,
is a good camp.

Here take the left-hand road to California, called
_Hudspeth's Cut-off_.

* * * * *

X.--_From Lawson's Meadows, on the Humboldt River, to Fort Reading, via Rogue River Valley, Fort Lane, Oregon Territory, Yreka, and Fort Jones._

Miles.

Lawson's Meadows to

18-1/2. Mountain Spring.--Road leaves the Humboldt, and takes a
northwesterly course 12 miles to a spring of good water. Good
bunch-grass to the left of the road, and a small spring at the
camp. The road is plain on leaving the river, but after a few
days it becomes faint. Road from this point passes over a
desert country for about 60 miles, without good water or much
grass.

38-1/2. Black Rock Spring.--Road level and hard, with little
vegetation. In 14 miles pass springs, but the water is not
good. In 16 miles the road passes a slough which is difficult
to cross; water not good, but can be given to cattle in small
quantities. In five miles from this the road passes Black
Rock, mentioned by Colonel Fremont in his trip from Columbia
River in 1843-4. Three miles farther pass boiling springs,
very hot, but good cooled. Grass pretty good.

20-1/4. Mountain Rill.--Water good; bunch-grass in the vicinity. In
eight miles' travel the road passes a beautiful creek of pure
water, with good grass.

5-3/4. Lake (Marshy).

10-1/2. High Rock Canon.--This canon is 25 miles long, with wild and
curious scenery. Road crosses the creek frequently, and the
mud is bad. In the autumn the road is good.

14-3/4. High Rock Canon.

Small Creek.--Beautiful country, with the greatest abundance
of water and grass; also fuel.

25-1/4. Pine Grove Creek.--Road passes over an interesting country,
well supplied with wood, water, and grass, and passes around
the south end of a salt lake.

18-1/2. West Slope of Sierra.--Road passes over the mountain, which
is steep but not rocky, then descends to a small creek of good
water which runs into Goose Lake. Good grass and fuel. Look
out for the Indians, as they are warlike and treacherous here.

7-3/4. East shore of Goose Lake.--Excellent camp.

16-1/4. West shore of Goose Lake.--This is a beautiful sheet of
fresh water; great quantities of water-fowl resort to this
lake.

16-1/4. Slough Springs.--The road passes over a very rocky divide,
covered with loose volcanic debris, very hard for animals, and
wearing to their feet. They should be well shod before
attempting the passage.

18-1/2. Marshy Lake.--Road difficult for wagons.

15. Clear Lake.--Beautiful lake of pure water, with good grass
around its shore.

25-1/4. East shore of Rhett's Lake.--Road tolerable over a rolling,
rocky country, between lakes. The road crosses Lost River over
a natural bridge, on a solid, smooth ledge of rock.

19. West shore of Rhett's Lake.--Plenty of wood, water, and
grass along this road.

21. Klamath River.--Road leaves Rhett's Lake, and enters the
forest and mountains; tolerably good. Good camp.

15-1/4. Cascade Mountains.--The road passes over high mountains,
through lofty pine-trees. Camp is at Summit Meadows. Good
water and grass, also fuel.

14-1/4. Western slope of Cascade Mountains.--Rough roads.

19-1/4. Rogue River Valley.--Road descends into the settlements
in six miles, where there is a lovely fertile valley, well
settled with farmers.

23-3/4. Fort Lane.--Near "Table Rock," on Rogue River, eight miles
from Jacksonville. Dragoon post.

22-3/4. Rogue River Valley.--Good camp.

18. Siskiyou Mountains.--Road crosses the Siskiyou Mountains,
and is difficult for wagons.

18. Yreka.--Flourishing mining city.

18. Fort Jones.--Infantry post, in Scott's Valley.

20. Scott's Mountain.--Good camp at the foot of the mountain.
Road passes over the mountains, but is impassable for wagons.

90. Shasta City.--Good grass, wood, and water.

180. Sacramento City.

* * * * *

XI.--_From Soda Springs to Fort Wallah Wallah and Oregon City, Oregon_, via _Fort Hall._

Miles.

Soda Springs to

25. Portner Creek.--Good camp. Take the right-hand road.

10. Ross's Creek.--Good camp.

10. Fort Hall Valley.--Good camp. Road runs down the creek.

8. Snake River.--Good camp. Road crosses the river bottom.

5. Fort Hall.

15. Small Branch.--Camp is three miles below the crossing of
Port Neuf River, which is fordable. Good wood, water, and
grass.

10. American Falls.--Good camp.

13. Raft River.--Road rough and rocky. Sage for fuel; grass
scarce.

17. Bend of Swamp Creek.--Grass scarce.

20. On Snake River.--Road crosses Swamp and Goose Creeks. Wood
on the hills; grass short.

25. Rock Creek.--Road crosses one small creek, and is very rough
and rocky for several miles, when it enters a sandy region,
where the grass is scarce; sage plenty, and willows on the
creek.

24. Snake River.--Road crosses several small branches. There is
but little grass except in narrow patches along the river
bottom.

26. Fishing Falls.--Road very crooked and rough, crossing two
small streams.

29. Snake River.--Road crosses several small creeks, but leaves
the main river to the north, and runs upon an elevated
plateau. Good grass at camp.

16. Snake River (ford).--Road tortuous; ford good in low water.

19. Small Branch.--Road crosses Snake River, and follows up a
small branch, leaving the river to the left. Good grass.
Road ascends to a high plateau, which it keeps during the
whole distance.

26. River "Aux Rochers."--Road passes Hot Springs, and is rough.
Wood, water, and grass plenty.

22. Small Creek.--Road crosses two small branches, and is very
rocky, but at camp grass, wood, and water are abundant.

23. Rio Boise.--Road crosses one small creek, and follows along
the Boise River. Good wood, water, and grass.

26. Fort Boise.--Road follows the south bank of Boise River to
the fort.

2. Fort Boise.--Road crosses Boise River. Good ford at ordinary
stages. Grass good in the river bottom.

20. River "Aux Matthews."--Good road. Grass abundant, but
coarse; wood and water plenty.

27. Snake River.--Road passes over a rough country. Grass scarce
and of a poor quality.

20. Burnt River.--Road leaves Snake River, and takes across
Burnt River, following up the north side of this to the
camp. It is mountainous and rough, but the grass is
good, and there is wood along the river.

22. Burnt River.--Road continues up the river, and is still
rough and mountainous. Grass and wood plenty.

26. Small Branch.--Road passes over a divide to "Powder River."
It is still rough, but getting better. The grass is good.

13. Powder River.--Good road; grass plenty.

21. Creek.--Road passes a divide, crossing several small
streams, and is smooth, with plenty of grass and fuel.

20. Creek.--Road crosses one small branch, and is rather rough.
The grass and fuel are good and abundant.

21. Creek.--Road follows down the creek for ten miles, then
turns up a small branch, and is good. There is plenty
of grass and fuel.

12. Branch.--Road crosses a divide and strikes another branch.

5. Small branch of the Umatilah River.--Good road, with plenty
of wood and grass.

16. Branch of Wallah Wallah River.--Wood, water, and grass.

18. Wallah Wallah River.--Wood, water, and grass. Columbia River
at Fort Wallah Wallah.--Wood, water, and grass.

10. Butler Creek.--Good camp.

18. Wells's Spring.--Good camp.

12. Willow Creek.--Good camp.

13. Cedar Spring.--Good camp.

6. John Day's River.--Good camp.

5. Forks of Road.--No camping. Left-hand road for wagons, and
right-hand for pack trains. This itinerary takes the left.

10. Ouley's Camp.--Good camp.

19. Soot's River.--Good camp.

6. Fall River.--Good camp.

10. Utah's River.--Good camp.

18. Soot's River.--Good camp.

6. Soot's River.--Good camp. Road follows up the river, crossing
it several times.

16. Sand River Fork.--Good grass a mile and a half to the left
of the road.

8. Good Camp.

15. Royal Hill Camp.--Good camp.

7. Sandy River.--But little grass.

45. Down the River.--Good camps all the distance.

25. Oregon City.--Good camps all the distance.

75. Salem.--Good camps all the distance.

* * * * *

XII.--_Route for pack trains from John Day's River to Oregon City._

Miles.

John Day's River to

17. Columbia River.--From John Day's River to the forks of the
road, and thence by the right-hand fork to the
Columbia. Good camp.

2-1/2. Soot's River Ferry.--Good camp.

15. Dalles.--Good camp.

25. Dog River.--Good camp.

15. Cascade Mountains.--One bad place.

9. Ouley's Rock.--Good camp.

20. Image Plain Ferry.--Good camp.

15. Portland.--Good camp.

12. Oregon City.--Good camp.

* * * * *

XIII.--_From Indianola and Powder-horn to San Antonio, Texas._

Miles.

Powder-horn to

4. Indianola, Texas.--Steamers run from New Orleans five times
a week to Powder-horn.

14. Chocolate Creek.--Good grass and water; fuel scarce. Road
passes over a low, flat country, which in wet weather
is heavy and muddy.

12. Grove.--Grove of oak; good water and grass. The road passes
over a hog-wallow prairie, which is very muddy, and almost
impassable for loaded teams after rains. The grass is abundant
every where in this section.

12-1/2. Victoria.--The road is good, passing along near the east
bank of the Guadalupe River. The country is thickly settled
with farmers, who sell grain at reasonable rates. Grass
abundant, also fuel.

34. Yorktown.--Road crosses the Guadalupe River on a bridge;
toll one dollar for a six-mule team. It then crosses a
low bottom for three miles; from thence the road is
good, over a rolling country, with plenty of wood,
water, and grass.

33. Cibello River.--Good road; wood, water, and grass plenty.

35. San Antonio.--Good road, with plenty of wood, water, and
grass along the road. The Cibello is fordable at
ordinary stages. The traveler can procure any thing he
may need at Victoria and at San Antonio.

* * * * *

XIV.--_Wagon-road from San Antonio, Texas, to El Paso, N.M., and Fort Yuma, Cal._

[Distances in miles and hundredths of a mile.]

Miles.

San Antonio to

6.41. Leona.

18.12. Castroville.

11.00. Hondo.

14.28. Rio Seco.

12.50. Sabinal.

13.46. Rio Frio.

15.12. Nueces.

10.27. Turkey Creek.

15.33. Elm Creek.--All good camps, with abundance of wood, water,
and grass. Country mostly settled, and the road very
good, except in wet weather, from San Antonio to Elm
Creek.

7.00. Fort Clarke.--Good grass, wood, and water. Road level and
good.

7.00. Piedra Pinta,--Good grass, wood, and water.

8.86. Maverick's Creek.--Good grass, wood, and water.

12.61. San Felipe.--Good grass, wood, and water.

10.22. Devil's River.--First crossing. Good wood, water, and grass.

18.27. California Springs.--Grass and water poor.

18.39. Devil's River.--Second crossing. Grass poor.

19.50. Devil's River.--Good camp. The only water between Devil's
River and Live Oak Creek is at Howard's Springs. The
road is very rough in places.

44.00. Howard's Springs.--Grass scarce; water plenty in winter;
wood plenty.

30.44. Live Oak Creek.--Good water and grass. The road passes
within 1-1/2 miles of Fort Lancaster.

7.29. Crossing of Pecos River.--Bad water and bad camp. The water
of the Pecos can be used.

5.47. Las Moras.--Good water, grass, and wood. The road is rough
on the Pecos.

32.85. Camp on the Pecos River.--Wood and grass scarce.

16.26. Escondido Creek.--At the crossing. Water good; little
grass or wood.

8.76. Escondido Spring.--Grass and water good; little grass.

19.40. Comanche Creek.--Grass and water good; little grass.

8.88. Leon Springs.--Grass and water good; no wood.

33.86. Barela Spring.--Grass and water good; wood plenty.

28.00. Fort Davis.--Good camp. From Fort Davis to Eagle Springs
there is an ascent, and one of the very best of roads.

18.42. Barrel Springs.--Water good; grass and wood fair.

13.58. Dead Man's Hole.--Good wood and water; grass scarce.

32.83. Van Horne's Wells.--No grass or wood, but they will be
found two miles back.

19.74. Eagle Springs.--Grass and wood poor; water about half a
mile from camp, in a narrow canon.

32.03. Mouth of Canon "de los Camenos."--The road is rather rough.
From here to Fort Bliss, opposite El Paso, the road
runs near the river, and camps may be made any where.
The wood, water, and grass are good at all points.

61.13. San Eluzario.--Mexican town.

9.25. Socorro.--Mexican town.

15.00. Fort Bliss, at El Paso.--United States military post and
Mexican town.

Total distance from San Antonio to El Paso, 654.27 miles.

* * * * *

Miles.

El Paso to

22. Cottonwood.--From El Paso to Messilla Valley, in the Gadsden
Purchase, the road runs up the east bank of the Rio
Grande to Fort Fillmore (N.M.), where it crosses the
river into the Messilla Valley.

22. Fort Fillmore.

6. La Messilla.

65. Cook's Spring.--From Messilla Valley to Tucson the road is
remarkably good, with good grass and water. The streams
on this section are the Mimbres and San Pedro, both
fordable, and crossed with little trouble. The Apache
Indians are generally met with in this country. There
is a flouring-mill two miles below El Paso, where flour
can be purchased at very reasonable prices.

18. Rio Mimbres.

17. Ojo la Vaca.

10. Ojo de Ynez.

34. Peloncilla.

18. San Domingo.

23. Apache Springs.

9. Cabesas Springs.

26. Dragon Springs.

18. Quercos Canon.--Bunch-grass will be found sufficient for
traveling purposes along this section of the road
between El Paso and Tucson.

6. San Pedro Crossing.

20. Cienega.

13. Cienega Creek.

20. Mission of San Navier.

8. Tucson.--Total distance from El Paso to Tucson, 305 miles.

5. Pico Chico Mountain.

35. First Camp on Gila River.

29. Maricopa Wells.--The Maricopa Wells are at the western
extremity of a fertile valley occupied by Pincos
Indians, who cultivate corn and other grain.

40. Tezotal.--Across Jornada. There is but little grass here,
but in the season the mesquite leaves are a good substitute.

10. Ten Mile Camp.

15. Oatman's Flat.--First crossing of the Gila River.

25. Second Crossing of the Gila.--The traveler can generally
find sufficient grass in the hills along the valley of
the Gila.

32. Peterman's Station.

20. Antelope Peak.

24. Little Corral.

16. Fort Yuma.

The distance from El Paso to Fort Yuma is 644 miles.

* * * * *

XV.--_From Fort Yuma to San Diego, California._

[Distances in miles and hundredths of a mile.]

Miles.

Fort Yuma to

10.00. Los Algodones.--Along the Colorado.

10.00. Cook's Wells.--Here commences the great desert; water
nowhere good or reliable until arriving at Carizo
Creek. The points named are where deep wells have been
dug. "New River," though usually set down, is a dry
arroyo. The surface of the desert for seven miles on
the eastern side is drifting sand and heavy for wagons.
Then comes a section in the centre of the desert that
is hard and level. On the west side there is about
three miles of a mud flat.

21.90. Alamo Rancho.

16.40. Little Laguna.

4.50. New River.

5.80. Big Laguna.

26.40. Carizo Creek.--Water good; cane and brush for fuel, and
they afford some forage for the animals; no grass.

16.60. Vallecito.--Grass poor; wood and water sufficient.

17.80. San Felipe.--Grass poor; wood scarce; water good.

15.80. Warner's Ranch.--The road passes through a beautiful oak
grove, where there is an abundance of grass and water.
This is the summit of the mountain. At the Ranch the
grass is poor, and no wood. The water is good. The oak
grove terminates six miles from Warner's.

10.30. Santa Isabel.--Good grass, wood, and water. This was an
old Spanish mission, but is now occupied by some
Americans and Indians.

11.40. Laguna.--Two miles from last camp is a good camping-place.
The road passes over some steep hills, not high. This
is the best camp on the road.

12.00. San Pasquel.--For the first nine miles the road is level
and good to the top of the mountain, where there is a
good camping-place, with wood, water, and grass; thence
the road descends a very steep hill. The camp is on the
east side of the brook, near Soto's house.

18.80. Parrasquitas.--The road passes a good camp three miles
from San Pasqual. Wood, Water, and grass at Parrasquitas.

8.00. Fisher's House.--The road passes over several hills, and
at four miles is a good camping-place. Wood, water, and
grass at camp.

San Diego, California.--When animals are to be kept a
considerable time at San Diego, they should be taken
four or five miles up the river, as the grass is poor
near the town.

Total distance from Fort Yuma to San Diego, 217 miles.

* * * * *

XVI.--_From El Paso, New Mexico, to Fort Yuma, California_, via _Santa Cruz._

[Distances in miles and hundredths of a mile.]

Miles.

From El Paso to

26.10. Samalayuca.--Spring, with grass and wood.

38.00. Salado.--Bad water, with little grass and wood.

24.75. Santa Maria.--Good grass, wood, and water.

27.50. Mines of San Pedro.--Bad water; little grass or water.

19.20. Correlitos.--Good water, grass, and wood.

20.00. Janos.--Good water, grass, and wood.

12.00. Pelatudo.--Good water, grass, and wood.

30.00. San Francisco.--Water half a mile south of the road.

18.00. San Louis.--Good water, grass, and wood.

35.00. San Bernardino.--Good water, grass, and wood.

30.00. Ash Creek.--Grass, wood, and water.

37.00. Head of San Pedro.--Grass and water.

24.00. Santa Cruz.--Good grass, wood, and water.

31.00. Cocospe.--Much grass; 10 or 12 miles without water. Leave
Santa Cruz River at old Rancho San Lazaro. No water till
reaching the head of San Ignacio, except at nine miles, a
spring one mile west of the road.

26.00. Hemores.--From Cocospe to Santa Anna follow down the San
Ignacio, and in many places there is wood and grass. Grass
is much better at three miles from the river. At the foot
of the hills there is an abundance of grama-grass.

5.00. Terrenati.

4.00. San Ignacio.

5.20. Madina.

5.20. San Lorenzo.

2.60. Santa Marta.

5.20. Santa Anna.

26.00. Alamita.--Plenty of grass. Leave the river 10 or 12 miles
from Santa Anna, and no water thence to Alamita, which is a
small rancho.

31.20. Altar.--No water; grass abundant.

13.00. Laguna.--Small water-hole; grass scanty and poor.

52.00. Sonia.--Sometimes water is found 25 miles from the Laguna,
south of the road. There is a well at Sonia in the town,
and sometimes water in a hole 300 yards south of the town,
100 yards west of the road.

10.40. El Paso.--Well at El Paso supplying 100 animals; water
muddy and brackish; grass poor.

52.00. Sonorita.--No water on the road; at Sonorita are several
brackish springs. Grass poor; bad camping-place; saltpetre
at the springs.

Quita Oaquita.--No water on the road. Saline spring at camp,
better than at Sonorita, but the grass is not so good.

10.40. Agua Salado.--Water uncertain; grass poor.

23.40. Los Pleyes.--Water only in the rainy season, one mile west
of the road, hidden by bushes and difficult to find. Grass
pretty good.

28.60. Cabeza Prieta.--Natural tenajas in a ravine two miles from
the road; follow a wagon-track up this ravine between a
black and a red mountain. The water is good and abundant;
grass tolerable.

31.00. Poso.--No water on the road until reaching Poso. Here it
is abundant on the east side of the road; grass good one
mile west.

13.00. Rio Gila.--But little good grass.

26.00. Fort Yuma, at the crossing of the Colorado River.--But
little good grass for several miles.

Total distance from El Paso to Fort Yuma, 756 miles.

* * * * *

XVII.--_From Westport, Missouri, to the gold diggings at Pike's Peak and "Cherry Creek" N.T._, via _the Arkansas River._

Miles.

Westport to

4-3/4. Indian Creek.--The road runs over a beautiful country.
Indian Creek is a small wooded stream, with abundance
of grass and water.

8-3/4. Cedar Creek.--The road passes over a fine country, and
there is a good camping-place at Cedar Creek.

8-1/2. Bull Creek.--The road is smooth and level, with less wood
than before. Camping good.

9-1/2. Willow Springs.--At nine miles the road passes "Black Jack
Creek," where there is a good camping-place. The road has
but little wood upon it at first, but it increases toward
the end of the march. The road is level for some distance,
but becomes more rolling, and the country is covered with
the finest grass. Good camp at one mile from the main road.

20-1/4. 110-Mile Creek.--The road traverses the same character of
country as yesterday, but with less woodland, is very smooth,
and at 9 and 12 miles passes "Rock Creeks," which have no
running water in a dry season. Good camp.

22-1/2. Prairie Chicken Creek.--At eight miles the road crosses
Dwissler Creek, which is a fine little stream; four miles
farther First Dragoon Creek, and at one mile farther the
Second Dragoon Creek, both fine streams, well wooded, and
good camping-places. Good camp.

20. "Big Rock Creek."--At one mile the road crosses a small wooded
branch. Three miles beyond it crosses "Elm Creek," where
a good camping-place may be found. At 7 miles it crosses
142-Mile Creek, and at 13 miles it crosses Bluff Creek, where
there is a good camping-place. Good camp.

20. "Council Grove," on Elm Creek.--Road passes "Big John Spring"
at 13 miles, and is smooth and good. A fine camp is found
three fourths of a mile beyond the "Grove," on Elm Creek,
with abundance of wood, water, and grass.

16. Diamond Spring.--At-eight miles the road crosses Elm Creek,
and passes over a section similar to that east of Council
Grove. It is fine in dry weather, but muddy after heavy
rains. Good camp at Diamond Spring.

16. Lost Spring.--One mile from camp the road passes a wooded
creek. From thence there is no more wood or permanent water
until arriving at camp. Take wood here for cooking, as there
is not a tree or bush in sight from Lost Spring. The country
becomes more level, with grass every where. The road is muddy
in wet weather.

15-3/4. Cottonwood Creek.--Road continues over a prairie country,
sensibly rising and improving. Wood, water, and grass at
camp.

22. Turkey Creek.--The road is good, and at 18 miles passes
Little Turkey Creek. No wood, and the water poor at camp;
grass good.

23. Little Arkansas River.--The road runs over a level prairie,
and at 3-1/2 miles passes "Big Turkey Creek," with the
Arkansas River Valley in sight all day. After rains there
are frequent pools of water along the road. Good camp.

20. "Big Cow" Creek.--The road passes for ten miles over a level
prairie, to Charez Creek, which is a bushy gully; thence six
miles to Little Cow Creek, which is a brushy stream, with
here and there a tree. Good camp here to the left of the
road, near a clump of trees. "Prairie-dog towns" commence
to be seen. Road very level. Buffalo-grass here.

20. Big Bend of the Arkansas.--The road at 12 miles strikes the
sand-hills of the Arkansas River. They are soon passed,
however, and the level river bottom is reached. The river
has a rapid current flowing over a quicksand bed. The road
is generally good from the last camp. Wood, water, and grass
at camp.

7. Walnut Creek.--The road is good. Cool springs at this camp;
good grass and wood.

21. Head of Coon Creek.--At five miles the road forks, one
following the river, the other a "short cut" "dry route"
to Fort Atkinson, where they unite on the river. The country
rises for ten miles on the dry route, then descends to the
river, and is covered with the short buffalo-grass. No wood
at camp.

18. Arkansas River.--The road passes over an undulating and
uninteresting prairie, with but little vegetation. The water
in dry weather is in pools.

19. Arkansas River, at Fort Atkinson.--The road runs over a
similar country to that of yesterday, with no wood near;
plenty of buffalo-chips for cooking, and good grass.

18-3/4. Arkansas River.--At 4-1/2 miles the road ascends a bluff
covered with thick buffalo-grass. On the river is heavy
bottom-grass. At 17 miles pass a ford. Grass good at camp.

19-1/4. Arkansas River.--The road is sandy for 14 miles, but not
deep except in places; thence to camp it is good. Good camp.

22. Arkansas River.--Country prairie, covered with short
buffalo-grass. Good camp.

22. Arkansas River.--The road is fine, crossing several dry-beds
of creeks, along which are seen a few scattering trees. Good
camp on a dry creek near the river.

24. Arkansas River.--The road runs over a barren plain at the
foot of the main plateau, and crosses two dry creeks near
the camp, on which are cottonwood-trees. Plenty of wood at
camp.

21. Arkansas River.--The road follows the base of the hills at
from one to three miles from the river. Good camp.

20. Arkansas River.--At seven miles the road strikes the "Big
Timbers," where there is a large body of cottonwood; thence
for three miles the road is heavy sand. Good camps along
here.

13. Arkansas River.--At one mile the road passes some old houses
formerly used as a trading-post. Here terminates the "Big
Timbers." Coarse grass at the camp.

15. Arkansas River.--At three miles the road passes the mouth of
Purgatoire Creek. Camp is below Bent's Fort. Good grass here.

24. Arkansas River.--Pass Bent's Fort. The grass is excellent in
the vicinity of the fort, but after this it is not so good.
The road runs over a high and considerably broken country.
Good camp.

11. Arkansas River.--Opposite the mouth of the Apishpa Creek;
good camp. The Huerfano Mountains and Spanish Peaks are in
sight from the camp. The "Cherokee Trail" comes in from
Arkansas near Bent's Fort, and leads to the gold diggings
at Cherry Creek.

9. Arkansas River.--Opposite the mouth of the Huerfano Creek.
Good camp, and a ford opposite Charles Audebee's house.

12. Arkansas River.--At this point the Cherokee trail bears to
the right and leaves the river. The left-hand, or river road,
runs up to the old pueblo at the mouth of the Fontaine qui
Bouille Creek. The right-hand road leads to the gold diggings.

15-3/4. Fontaine qui Bouille.--The road strikes in a northwest
course over the rolling country, and comes upon the creek
at a most beautiful camp, where there is a great abundance
of good wood, water, and grass. The wood, water, and grass
are good at all points on the Fontaine qui Bouille, and
travelers can camp any where upon this stream.

17-1/2. Fontaine qui Bouille.--Here the road forks, one running
up the river, and the other striking directly across to the
divide of the Arkansas and Platte. I prefer the left-hand
road, as it has more water and better grass upon it.

6-1/2. Forks of the "Fontaine qui Bouille."--The road to Cherry
Creek here leaves the "Fontaine qui Bouille" and bears to the
right. There is a large Indian trail which crosses the main
creek, and takes a northwest course toward "Pike's Peak." By
going up this trail about two miles a mineral spring will be
found, which gives the stream its name of "_The Fountain
that Boils_." This spring, or, rather, these springs, as
there are two, both of which boil up out of solid rock, are
among the greatest natural curiosities that I have ever seen.
The water is strongly impregnated with salts, but is
delightful to the taste, and somewhat similar to the
Congress-water. It will well compensate any one for the
trouble of visiting it.

17-1/2. Black Squirrel Creek.--This creek is near the crest of the
high divide between the Arkansas and Platte Rivers. It is a
small running branch, but always affords good water. There is
pine timber here, and the grass is good on the prairies to
the east. This is a locality which is very subject to severe
storms, and it was here that I encountered the most severe
snow-storm that I have ever known, on the first day of May,
1858. I would advise travelers to hasten past this spot as
rapidly as possible during the winter and spring months, as a
storm might prove very serious here.

14. Near the head of Cherry Creek.--The road crosses one small
branch at four miles from Black Squirrel Creek; it then takes
up to an elevated plateau, which in a rainy season is very
muddy. The camp is at the first timber that is found, near
the road, to the left. There is plenty of wood, water, and
grass here. There is also a good camping-place at the small
branch that is mentioned.

10. On Cherry Creek.--There is good grass, wood, and water
throughout the valley of Cherry Creek. The mountains are from
five to ten miles distant, on the left or west of the road,
and when I passed there was a great abundance of elk, deer,
antelope, bear, and turkeys throughout this section.

7. On Cherry Creek.--Good camp.

11. On Cherry Creek.--Good camp.

17. Mouth of Cherry Creek, at the South Platte.--Good camp, and
a town built up since I passed, called "_Denver City_."

Total distance from Westport to the gold diggings, 685-1/4 miles.

* * * * *

XVIII.--_From St. Paul's, Min., to Fort Wallah Wallah, Oregon._

Miles.

St. Paul's to

17-1/4. Small Brook.--The wood, water, and grass are abundant as far
as the "Bois des Sioux" River.

20-1/4. Cow Creek.--This stream is crossed on a bridge.

23-1/4. Small Lake.--North of the road. The road passes over a
rolling prairie, and crosses Elk River on a bridge.

17. Near Sauk Rapids.--The road crosses Elk River twice on
bridges; Mississippi River near.

18. Russel's.--Ferry across the Mississippi River, then follow
the Red River trail. Camp is on a cold spring brook.

6. Cold Spring Brook.--Cross Sauk River, 300 feet wide, 4-1/2
feet deep.

19-1/2. Lake Henry.--Road good.

18-3/4. Lightning Lake.--Cross Cow River in a ferry-boat; water 4-1/2
feet deep.

17-1/2. Lake.--One mile from Red River trail. Pass White Bean Lake.

9-1/2. Pike Lake.--Pass the South Branch of the Chippeway River.
Road runs over rolling prairie, and crosses a small branch.