Chapter M: A. Wyllie (4)

When on the box the whip should be held in the right hand under the thumb, with the lash twisted a few times round the stick, which is also held under the thumb. The lash should always be in a big loop, so that there is not more than six inches to spare beyond the hand. The wheelers should always be hit before the pad with the double thong, and the leaders should be hit on the hind legs, by the end of the lash of course. When about to hit the leaders unfold the whip and bring the stick back to the side of the coach, and then by a movement of the wrist send the lash in the required direction under the bars. Afterwards bring the thong back to the stick and fold it up again. When the thong is on the stick, put the left thumb through the loop that is on the stick, pull off the lash and give it one or two turns to the left. In hitting wheelers one must remember that they cannot do their fair share of work if the leaders have too much head room, and it is quite useless hitting them without first shortening the leaders' reins. Above all, when driving a team, keep them well in hand and feel their mouths.

Tandem driving in many respects closely resembles team driving. The reins are held in the same way, and the whip is practically the same though generally rather lighter and the lash a trifle shorter, but this will depend of course on the size of the horses you are driving. Many people consider a tandem, even apart from the difference in the weight of the reins, more difficult to drive than a coach, but personally I have always considered tandem driving the easier of the two; it is easier to pull up in the traffic and you can turn in a fairly small space, though to make the horses go well they require neat, quick, handling, and exceptionally light hands. Many horses will make good tandem leaders that will not go in any other form of harness; of course, there are many too which make safe leaders, but at the same time could not be called "good." A perfect leader should be quick and free, and always be taking a slight hold of the bit, he should go wherever he is driven and not shy off omnibuses, etc. A slug in the lead is most difficult to drive, and quite takes away from the pleasure of a tandem.

There are two kinds of harness, with and without bars. With bars is supposed to be the safer of the two, but, if proper care is taken, there is practically no danger without bars, as the leader should never be allowed to get far enough back to risk his getting a leg over the trace. To turn, a loop can be taken up just the same as in turning a team, but it is necessarily much smaller, and great care must be taken not to allow the leader to come completely round. Most corners, if not sharp ones, can be turned by placing the right hand over the lead reins and one wheel rein, but a great deal depends on the give and take of the left hand. This is a most important thing, as a tandem turns very easily, a turn of the wrist being usually sufficient to move the horses across the road. When the right hand is kept on the reins, it should be in the same position as on team reins. When getting into the cart the reins should also be taken the same way as team reins, first in the left hand and then passed to the right, and finally, when seated, transferred back to the left hand. Before taking the reins to get into the cart, the whip should always be neatly folded and placed in the socket ready for immediate use. Though the wheeler starts the cart, the leader should have plenty of head room, or otherwise he will be liable to jib. A tandem is most useful for going fairly long distances at a good pace, as the weight is not great and the leader can do his full share of the work going up hill. Except when going up hill a leader should only do a very small share of the work. If proper care is taken, the danger of a tandem is by no means so great as is generally supposed, and a good tandem is a most enjoyable turn-out to drive.

_MISS MASSEY-MAINWARING._]

I hope the foregoing hints may be of some use to those interested in driving, who wish to become steady and clever whips. The most necessary things to ensure success are plenty of practice in driving different horses, and great care and attention to all the minor details. There is nothing more enjoyable than road coach-driving, in my opinion, except a day with foxhounds. But women should not attempt coaching unless they are fairly strong, and have had plenty of experience.

Before I end I cannot help mentioning one whip whose driving I have always particularly admired, and that is Ernest K. Fownes, of Rocket fame. I have often had the pleasure of seeing him drive, and a useful lesson it has been each time. It is most interesting to watch how he goes through the thickest traffic, never stopping it, and never seeming himself to stop, his horses going as one.

Ada J. C. Massey-Mainwaring.

CYCLING.

The subject of cycling is distinctly a many-sided one. While the same general remarks which apply to the subject of exercise for women, apply also to the use of the cycle, we should remember that though every woman is benefitted by exercise of some kind, there are a few women who are not fitted to ride the cycle at all. This may seem a strong assertion from one who is devoted to cycling, and who so thoroughly believes in its health-giving properties. But though to the practised rider cycling is much easier work than walking, to the novice, or to the unskilled rider, and even to the skilled rider who is out of form, it becomes hard work. Especially in learning, an amount of muscular effort is required which some women are unfitted to undertake. Therefore, we must assume that the would-be cyclist is a person of average health, strength, and activity, and to such an one, the cycle should be a boon indeed. It is impossible to lay down rules as to who is fit or unfit to take up the pastime, for even doctors are sometimes much at fault on this point. My own view is that any girl, or older woman either, who is used to a fair amount of exercise, should be able to cycle and to cycle well, _in time_. But those with weak hearts or similar complaints should not attempt to cycle, any more than they should run upstairs quickly or climb steep hills.

Before leaving the health view of cycling, I wish to impress most strongly on all who take up cycling the necessity of "taking it easily" at first. Apart from the fact that actually the hardest work is in the learning, it must be remembered that even after the learner can ride without assistance, the body has to become accustomed to an entirely new form of exercise. If you took a good walker and stopped her from all walking exercise for a few months, how tired she would get when she began again. This fatigue would continue until her muscles had got into good order again, and yet walking comes naturally to everyone. Cycling does not come naturally, except in very rare instances, so how much more necessary is it to begin carefully, and let the body become gradually accustomed to it. The girl who rides ten or fifteen miles after being on a cycle only once or twice, and who--from not having mastered the art of riding--uses two or three times more exertion over it than she need, would not dream, perhaps, of walking five miles on end at a good pace. Yet she then pronounces the cycle "hard work," and says she finds no pleasure in it. No wonder!

Really to appreciate cycling many conditions are necessary, and that is why I called it a many-sided subject at the outset. First of all it is an active exercise, so those who have not been in the habit of taking enough outdoor exercise in other forms, must not expect to cycle with comfort or enjoyment until they have gradually got their general health, into a state which is known as "fit." Then when the cyclist is fitted in herself to enjoy riding, there are other things to be considered, and these I put as follows:

(_a_) To ride correctly; (_b_) to have a good cycle, suited to the particular requirements of the rider, and properly adjusted; and (_c_) to look well.

First then as to Riding, and here we are met by the reflection, how few women ride really well. It makes me sad to see how badly three-fourths of the riders one meets are getting along, and when I reflect how much more they would enjoy themselves, and _how much better they would look_ if taken in hand for a time by a good tutor, I feel angry at the so-called "Instructors" one usually has to put up with at the average riding school.

When you are learning, you should if possible select a grass lawn, or failing this a quiet piece of broad road, and practice on this _little and often_. Short rides, even of a few yards, are valuable, if done frequently. The pupil should not get over-tired, or struggle on after her efforts become worrying. She should take a rest and have another turn a few hours later, and will then find the result very different. To the novice my advice is, do not trouble about mounting and dismounting without assistance, as this will come later as a matter of course.

The object must be to sit quite still in the saddle, and not to rely on the handles. Good riders never move their bodies at all, but ride with their hands just resting lightly on the handles, _not_ pulling at them. In time it will be found the machine can be steered by just slightly inclining the shoulders in the direction in which it is wished to turn. Above all things when you are learning do not fix your eyes on the front wheel, but look ahead. This is essential.

When the machine goes naturally in a straight line, then the rider will know that she is not only sitting well, but has begun to acquire the art of pedalling. There is a very great deal in pedalling evenly, as this not only lessens the labour but takes away all difficulty of steering. When a rider sits well and pedals well, there is practically no steering to be done, for the machine will go automatically in the direction desired by the rider, or so at least it will appear. The saddle should be so adjusted that when the pedal is at its lowest point, the foot of the rider should be just able to drop on to it naturally, without quite straightening the knee. A good way to test this, is to stretch the toe out as far as it will go (knee quite straight) and if the foot will just go underneath the pedal, no more, the length of reach is correct.

Force should never be exerted in driving the pedals, they must be "coaxed" round, for this in a word is the art of "ankling." When the pedal is at the top of the stroke, the heel should be downward as in Fig. 1. As the pedal travels forward and down, the foot should follow it, keeping the ankle as still as possible, till at the bottom of the stroke, the toe is pointing downwards, and the heel is highest. The effect of this will be first of all to give power in riding as shown by Fig. 2. If the foot is pressed downward only, it will be in operation for a very small part of the stroke, as the pedal moves in a circle, but by ankling, it will easily be seen (Fig. 3) that power is maintained for a much longer time.

From a woman's point of view too the effect of ankling is still more important, as beside the gain in speed, it promotes gracefulness. The rise and fall of the knee in riding, is reduced by one half when the ankles are used properly, and the result to the onlooker is consequently more pleasing. For the skirt to hang gracefully and the rider to look well, there should be as little movement of the knees as possible. Therefore, if you sit sufficiently high and use your ankles properly, you will not only be using your powers to the very best advantage, and lessening fatigue, but will at the same time be attaining gracefulness, and in every way improving your appearance in the saddle.

Another important point is to keep the legs _straight up and down_ when riding. The knees should not be allowed to go either inwards or outwards on any account, and there should be no "wobbling" in the leg action. The toe and heel should be in a line, at right angles across the pedal, that is, exactly parallel with the crank all the time. Take care that the heel does not twist at all (Fig. 4) on the stroke.

Learn to mount from either side of the machine, and to do so lean the machine a little toward you with the outside pedal up, and rather forward, then place your foot on the pedal furthest from you, and as you raise yourself into the saddle, the weight of your body will bear on that pedal, thus sending the opposite one up to meet the other foot.

The dress should be caught in the hand as you put your foot across the machine on to the pedal, and if any further arrangement should be necessary you will, when you are at home in the saddle, find it easy to do this as you go along. A slight pull to the side will be all that is required. When once in the saddle, do not be anxious to find the other pedal, simply keep the machine straight, as it will run a surprising distance of its own accord after the start given to it by the act of mounting, unless, indeed, you should be mounting up hill, which is never desirable for a beginner to attempt. If the foot which was on the ground is allowed to hang downwards as soon as the rider is seated in the saddle, it will find the pedal quite naturally, in fact the pedal will come round to the foot. In dismounting as in mounting, the rider should learn to do it with equal ease and confidence from either side. When the pedal is coming upward, throw the weight upon it--this stops the momentum of the machine--at the same time rising out of the saddle, then pass the other foot over the cycle and step down in front of the pedal, on which the weight of the body is resting. A firm grasp should be kept on both handles, and the machine inclined towards the rider, on the side she dismounts.

_The rule of the road_ is usually ignored by cycling women, but nothing in connection with the pastime is really more important. To observe it always whether necessary or not, is to reduce the possibility of accident to a minimum. It then becomes a habit, and in an emergency the instinct is to do the right thing immediately, the value of which can scarcely be over-estimated. Always ride then to the left side of the road, whether there are vehicles about or not. Remember, it is the unexpected that always happens, and should a cart or cycle suddenly appear from a bye road, an accident will almost surely happen if you are on the side that should be free for them. If in spite of your caution an accident happens, you will at least have the chance of being compensated if you can prove that you were on your proper side at the time; you certainly would not, if you were on the wrong side. There are only two occasions on which this rule is deviated from, viz.: when passing a vehicle which is going in the same direction or when passing a led horse going in either direction. When overtaking a vehicle, never pass between it and the pavement or side-walk, for the tendency is for the driver to pull in toward the left when he hears anything behind him. With a led horse the custom is to keep the man in charge always _between_ oneself and the led horse, no matter in which part of the road the latter may be. The reason is obvious, led horses being sometimes playful with their heels.

The most fruitful cause of accidents is the wrong taking of corners. The right way to do it, however, is very simple. Thus if proceeding along a road, and desiring to turn off to the left, make the curve (if possible) in the road you are in, and thus enter the other road on the left, _i.e._, safe side. Remember that you cannot see what is in the other road, and the act of turning will make the machine swing out more or less from the proper side (Fig. 5).

The principle is reversed when taking a turn to the right. Never cut across the nearest corner in doing this. Go nearly across the side road so as to turn into it on your proper side thus (Fig. 6).

If these simple matters are borne in mind, a cyclist may go many years without even the risk of an accident. Another thing to remember, is never on any account to lose control of your machine when descending a hill you do not know, if the bottom of it cannot be seen. Though to "fly" a hill is the height of enjoyment, safety demands that the end of the spin should be visible, or that you should know your ground thoroughly.

In the choice of a machine, remember it is very essential to have a cycle well suited to the rider. Cyclists of experience get to know their own requirements exactly and can suit their physical peculiarities, but more often than not the beginner is entirely in the hands of the cycle agent. Hence we so often see a slight, frail woman struggling along with a great, heavy unwieldy machine altogether beyond her strength, or on the other hand a heavy woman who is obviously under-mounted. For riders who are of moderate height or even a little over I believe in 26-inch wheels, but tall women should have 28-inch wheels fitted to their machines, to look proportionate to the extra high frame necessary. In the latter case everything else should be also larger. The 26-inch wheels look well for all but very tall or stout riders. The usual height of frame is about 21 inches measured from the top of the frame--the part where the seat pillar is fixed in--to the centre of the bracket axle (Fig. 7). This will accommodate riders whose length of leg-reach is up to 32 inches or 33 inches. It is better on the whole to have the frame too short than too long. It is more rigid if short, and a little seat pillar standing out will not detract greatly from the appearance. Always ascertain that there is a margin of at least six inches between the height of the seat pillar, when down at the lowest point, and when raised to the fullest height at which it can be safely fixed. Exactly the same should apply to the stem of the handle bars, as, if the saddle is raised the handles should be raised to a corresponding degree, otherwise the rider will be in a stooping position. The exact position of the handles depends a great deal on the length of arm and length of body of the rider, but in the ordinary way the lowest part of the handles should be at least two inches above the saddle (see Fig. 7), as it is above all things necessary that the rider shall not have to stoop forward when riding. On the other hand, the handles must not be higher than is necessary for a comfortable grasp, otherwise the effect will be extremely ungraceful. As the rider sits in the saddle with her arms extended straight downward, she should be able to swing them forward exactly into the riding position, without bending the elbow in any appreciable degree.

In purchasing a cycle the most important points for the rider to consider are:

1. Rigidity of frame.

2. Weight.

3. Width of tread.

4. Height of pedal from the ground.

Rigidity of frame means speed, _i.e._, ease of propulsion. If the frame is badly designed it will yield sideways to the rider's pressure, and much of the power which would be otherwise used to send it forward will be wasted. If you grasp the steering head and the down tube of a cycle (see Fig. 7) and endeavour to twist the frame, you can ascertain whether it is rigid or not. It should not be possible to force these two points towards each other at all, or to pull them sideways out of line with each other. If you can, there will be no chance of riding up a steep incline on _that_ machine! There is another essential matter on which the purchaser can protect herself. This is to see that the cycle is properly stayed in various parts of the frame. These "stays" bind the whole frame firmly together and prevent "give" or yielding, when pressure is applied on the pedals. In addition to the "stays" in the front portion of frame (examples of which are shown in Fig. 7) there should be a stay between the two back legs, just above the back wheel.

If you are purchasing a machine with an acknowledged reputation, and made by a maker of standing, it can safely be assumed that these matters have been provided for, as they would only be omitted on the score of cheapness. Never on any account be persuaded to ride a machine which is not fully guaranteed by a well-known firm. There are so many points on which a cycle may be faulty, and the only safeguard to the rider is that the work shall have been carried out in the most careful and conscientious fashion throughout. Therefore I would repeat never trust yourself on any but a machine by a good maker. Far better buy even a good second-hand cycle than a "cheap" new one, for the latter may cause constant trouble, to say nothing of the possibility of serious accident.

The weight of an ordinary good-class ladies' machine should not be over 30-lbs. It is possible to obtain them fully equipped at about 28-lbs., but to get them at this or less either the weight of the tyres, etc., have to be very much reduced, or the fittings are not efficient. If the tyres are very thin and light they will be constantly puncturing. The gear case too should be of sufficient stability, and the same remark applies to the dress-guards and mud-guards; in fact it is in the fittings that the weight of a cycle is found, the actual frame not weighing more than 5-lbs. as a rule. This is the reason why American machines are lighter than English, the simple explanation being that the former are fitted with the flimsiest of chain covers, mud-guard, brake work, etc., whilst the English-made cycle is properly equipped for use in all weathers.

The width of "tread" is important, as both for comfort and speed and also on the score of appearance, the rider's feet should not be wider apart than is absolutely necessary. A narrow "tread" is the sign of a well designed machine. To measure this, the distance should be ascertained between the inside faces of the two cranks, and this distance should not be above five inches.

The height of the pedals from the ground is a point which is never overlooked by a really good firm of cycle makers. It is desirable to get the pedals as near to the ground as possible for comfort in mounting and for ease of propulsion; but there is a limit, as if too low, the pedal would be likely to catch the ground when the machine leans over on a sharp corner. The consequence of this would be disastrous to the rider. There is also the lesser danger of the pedal striking a stone if too near the ground. The usual distance is about ten or ten-and-a-half inches from the centre of bracket-axle to the ground.

Suitable clothing is as necessary in cycling as in all other forms of exercise. Warmth with lightness are the things to be aimed at, while it is of the first necessity that there should be no pressure anywhere, from the crown of the head to the soles of the feet, to impede free circulation. Having said this, little more remains to add, as each rider will naturally have her own ideas as to the underclothing she prefers, and provided this is warm enough to guard the wearer against chills and sufficiently light to prevent it adding to her fatigue, I do not think it much signifies what she chooses. Silk or woollen knickerbockers of some dark colour should of course be worn, and these which should be cut fairly full must on no account be made of very heavy material, a warm flannel lining being sufficient in any case to give warmth.

A loosely-fitting bodice, or nicely-cut coat, according to the time of year, will be found suitable, and this brings me to the part of our attire about which there is a real difficulty, namely, a well cut skirt. Of all the many so-called cycling "skirts," there are but few really suitable for the purpose, for not only is it necessary they should be useful, but it is on the way they fall that the graceful or other appearance of the rider will greatly depend. A woman may sit well and pedal to perfection, but if she has a skirt that does not hang evenly and easily on each side of her saddle, and is of the right length, she will not look well in motion.

The great difficulty is of course to get the "hang" right beside the saddle, and to ensure the fulness keeping it its proper place, I have originated a method for my own skirts which I have found answer well. This is very simple, and consists of a V shaped piece of the material of which the skirt is made being firmly stitched on below the band at the back, to hold the pleats in place. With this, the fulness does not move too easily to one side, when the necessary touch to the skirt is made in mounting.

The skirt should be cut slightly longer behind than in front, as of course when the rider is in the saddle it will hang shorter than where it falls straight down. When the wearer is standing up, the skirt should come to within six inches of the ground in front. As regards width, it should not be too full, as nothing looks more ungraceful than a skirt which flies out on either side with every turn of the foot. At the same time it must be full enough to allow complete freedom of movement. About three-and-a-half yards is generally considered the right width. When having a skirt made from a new pattern, I should always insist on having it fitted when you are seated in the saddle, as only so can you tell how it will really answer.

For keeping the skirt from blowing up, I have found nothing better than to pass the feet through a strap of 1/4-inch elastic, about nine inches in length, laid flat against the inside of the hem. These straps should be placed about ten inches on either side of the middle of front of skirt, so as to enable you to walk without inconvenience.

As a material, a light woollen cloth of dark and unobtrusive colour is in my opinion the most suitable.

For riding you should have a hat that will not catch the wind, and as shade for a part of the year is desirable, you will find nothing better than a "sailor" as a fitting accompaniment to a sensible and workmanlike dress. A common mistake is to have a heavy hat with a great deal of trimming, which cannot be comfortable during rapid motion through any but the stillest of atmospheres.

As to foot-gear, a low-heeled flexible waisted shoe is to be recommended, with gaiters for winter wear.

An important matter for all and especially for the delicate in health, who may so often derive benefit from cycling, is to guard against a chill after riding. No time should be lost after reaching home, before putting on a complete set of dry underclothing. It is by standing about, perhaps out of doors or in a draught, till the warm glow which was upon you when you stepped off your machine has given place to a shivery feeling, that you will get harm instead of good from your pleasant spin, whereas a warm bath and a fresh set of clothing, and not even the most delicate need suffer from her exertions. If you should for any reason not find this possible without a certain delay, then put on a warm coat or other wrap immediately, and this will generally prevent you from suffering any ill effects.

You should always have your cycle dusted over and any mud carefully wiped off, directly you return from a ride. To prevent damage to the enamel, the mud should be wiped very gently with a soft wet cloth, and if this is carefully done it does not matter whether the mud has dried or not. The bright parts should be rubbed with a soft leather or "selvyt," and then a Holland cover be thrown over the machine, to keep it free from dust or any slight damp. With the exception of a rub with the "selvyt" the cycle will then be ready for use. If a slight application of a good furniture cream is made to the enamelled parts, it will brighten them considerably. When it is known that the machine will not be required for any length of time, all the bright parts should be smeared with Vaseline, and the machine itself should be stood in a dry place. It is best to rest it on a small stand, which is also very useful for cleaning purposes. After a long rest all the bearings should be well oiled, the lamp refilled, and the machine generally overhauled. The tyres should be kept hard. Some people let the air out when their machine is not in use, under the idea that it is good for the tyres, but this is a mistake. If the tyres are allowed to go flat, the weight of the machine will be likely to "nip" the inner tube. Above all, oil should be kept from the tyres, and if any should by chance drop on them while the machine is being oiled, it should be carefully wiped off. A tyre should not need blowing up, more than once in two or three weeks, if the valves are in good order. If, therefore, it should require inflating every day, as sometimes happens, either there is a small puncture, or the valve is out of order. If the trouble is caused by a puncture, it will generally mean a visit to the repairers, but first examine the valves in case these should be at fault, for very often a little attention to them will put matters right. As there are so many kinds of valves a technical illustration would be of little use, but as a rule all valves can be unscrewed and examined easily. In the valve most in use, viz.: that of the Dunlop tyre, if the end is unscrewed--after the dust cap is taken off--the whole mechanism of the valve can be taken out, and this will be found to consist only of a small cylinder covered by a little indiarubber tube. This piece of rubber covers the valve hole in the cylinder, and it is the rubber which generally wants replacing. The dust cap is the small cap, attached by a little chain to the spokes, and which is screwed over the end of the valve to keep the dirt out, after the tyre has been inflated.

If the rider does not object to a little trouble, a puncture can be repaired at home, though the chief objection to the operation is the dirty state in which it is apt to get the operator, unless indeed the tyres are thoroughly cleaned first. When you buy a machine, the exact details are given with each particular class of tyre, and general instructions for repairing will be found included in the repair-outfit, which can be purchased for about sixpence. This tyre-outfit consists of a small quantity of solution--which be careful not to get on the fingers--some rubber patches, and French chalk. When the inner tube has been taken off, the valve should be refitted to it, and the tubes inflated. Then pass the tube through water, using a shallow bowl for the purpose. From each spot where there is a puncture, little air bubbles will come out whilst the tube is under water. Mark these with a pencil, let the air out--by the valve--and dry the tube. Then with a piece of glass paper, clean the tube from sulphur--till the natural dark colour of the rubber appears--where the puncture is, say for a space as large as a sixpence. Put some solution thinly on the rubber patch, let it nearly dry, and then press it down on the tube, on the spot cleaned from sulphur, and hold it there for a minute or two. The puncture of course will be in the centre of this spot if you have managed properly. A little French chalk dusted over the patch will prevent any solution there may be round the patch, from sticking to the outer cover when the tyre is put together again.

With regard to the general adjustment of a cycle, it is most essential that all the bearing parts should be in proper order, as any one of them will make a very great difference in labour to the rider. A few brief notes on the principal parts will enable the rider to ascertain if her mount is in proper condition to do justice to her own riding powers. First the chain. This should be oiled occasionally in its whole length, so that each joint is properly lubricated. When it has been oiled along the top half, the wheels should be revolved sufficiently to bring the other half on top for oiling. The chain must not be too tight, or the machine will be hard to drive, neither must it be too loose, or accidents will occur. The state of the chain can be ascertained by taking hold of one pedal, whilst the machine is at rest with its weight on the ground. The pedal and crank should just show the slightest perceptible movement, without moving the machine, if the chain is in good order. The pedals should revolve twenty or thirty times at least, when given a good sharp spin with the hand, and there should be no perceptible shake in them. The steering is a very important point, as if this is stiff it will increase the labour in riding. If the front wheel is lifted from the ground, its own weight should make it drop over to one side or the other, which ever way the machine lies, else the steering is too stiff for easy riding. There should be no shake whatever in the steering, the front wheel, when tested, should be immoveable from the rest of the machine, either backwards or forwards. All the bearings require a moderate oiling for about every fifty miles you ride. Olive or other clear oil is used for lubricating the bearings, and on no account must paraffin or a similar oil be used, except for _cleaning_ the bearings out. Most cycle depôts supply a suitable oil for lubricating. Once or twice in the year it is advisable to run paraffin through the bearings, but care must be taken to drain it all out afterwards, and the bearings should then be oiled with proper lubricant. Sperm or colza oil is good for burning in the lamp. Add a small piece of camphor to this to give a clearer light. A little paraffin may be put on the top of the wick at the burner, to make the lamp light easily, but if this is added to the burning oil, the lamp will smoke, and be liable to jolt out over rough places. If the machine is properly adjusted and well oiled, the wheels should--after being revolved--swing back and forth once or twice with their own weight. At the same time, no "shake" should be discernible sideways, but the wheels should appear to be a rigid part of the machine.

Lillian J. Hills.

A very useful aid to wheel-women is the _Cyclists' Pocket
Book_. Most portable and well printed, it contains all kinds of
useful information as to the obligations of cyclists, the care
of the machine, and some most excellent and practical hints to
those about to take a tour. A list of reliable cycle repairers,
of hotels which cater for cyclists, besides an almanack and
other items usually found in pocket books, are contained within
its covers. As there are books which no gentleman's library
should be without, so this is one of which no cyclist's pocket
should be empty.

FANCY FIGURES AND MUSICAL RIDES.

The branch of Cycling familiarly known as "figure riding" is open to all, and there is no doubt that the short turns and rapid curves required are not only fascinating, but at the same time excellent practice. The control over the machine given by them will enable the rider to pick his or her way very exactly through the most difficult pathway. Some may laugh at the idea of "riding to music," but having once tried it you will find they are generally glad to do it again. The figures, varied as they are, and presenting almost endless possibilities, are intricate enough to give a beginner in this branch of the art, absorbing work, and even afterwards, when perfection has been attained, there will be found a charm in winding in and out in the execution of the figures, so long as everyone engaged in the ride keeps time. For it must not be forgotten that it is in the neatness and precision with which they are done that the fascination exists.

It was while staying at an hotel in the country that a rainy day drove me to the nearest Gymnasium to try Cycling for the first time. As it happened, the instructors were accustomed to put up clubs and teach their pupils to circle round them so as to ensure balance and absolute control over their machines. I believe it was by accident that they first tried riding to music, but once tried it was never abandoned, as it was found an enormous help in keeping a regular pace, and in enabling the leader to guide the ride more accurately. Nothing but a waltz, however, will be found suitable. In the summer, shortly after this, I first turned figure riding to account, as a means of amusing my guests, and I found it so popular that eventually I procured the services of an instructor, and we used to ride every afternoon.

It is surprising how many miles one goes, simply turning and twisting, and going over the same ground. With tea spread near by, and comfortably seated in easy chairs, placed so as to command a view of the riding, even the onlookers, I found, were well amused, and for those who wish to spend a delightful summer's afternoon in an exercise, combining sociability and amusement, I know of no better pastime than this.

There are a few simple rules to be attended to, which it may not be amiss for me to state, and then by the aid of some diagrams I hope to give the key to what may look difficult, though, in reality, it is easy enough.

1. In the first place either a Gymnasium or smooth lawn must be selected to ride on. In the latter case it will not hurt the grass, no matter what your gardener may say to the contrary, and if he will only water it and roll it daily, or even twice a day, you will have a delightful ground, and in the following year an even better grass crop than if it had not been so treated.

2. The lawn should be the size that is usually allotted to a full size Croquet lawn. However, there is no rule as to size, though with a greater number of riders, you will have to go over a larger space. I, therefore, recommend a fairly large ground, especially as after rain the grass is apt to become slippery, and even in those rides which are done by only four riders you will have to make larger circles to avoid accidents.

3. Never attempt to do the rides too quickly. Sacrifice speed to exactitude when necessary, and pay great attention to making all your turns simultaneously.

4. If a mistake is made in a figure, dismount and begin again. In some of the rides if one person makes an error, she can _ride to the side_ and dismount, while the others continue, but in most cases this will put the ride out, and it is better for all to stop. In any case no one should ever try to cut in and resume her original place or join in a ride after it has begun.

When possible, it is best to have someone on foot who will give the word of command, for this is a great help, not only to the leaders but to all who are riding.

Before mounting or dismounting, have the order given to do so very distinctly, and make it a never-failing rule _never_ to let the riders be taken by surprise. I think too, at a garden party, it is always a good plan to let all who are going to take part in the ride join in the first figure, as it will make them feel more interest in the proceedings, and give everyone time to become at ease on their bicycles. For this purpose I would suggest the "double snake" through clubs. (See Fig. 1.)

For this you will begin with "single snake," by riding once round the lawn. Be sure that everybody is in line when the word to mount is given; it creates confusion and leads to unnecessary collisions when several mount in a group. Of course the pace must be regulated by the leader. Starting at the corner below clubs C, this rider will go round _outside_ the clubs, and having reached the point marked (*) will turn in and ride straight between clubs A, then going to the right between those marked B, and afterwards through C. At the same place the turn was made the first time it should be repeated, and having passed between A turn to the left through E and D. After repeating some four or five times begin the "double snake."

Up to this point all have followed one leader, now two will be required. Continue as before, but when leader No. 1, after passing through clubs A turns to the right to clubs C, leader No. 2 will turn to the left between E and D. The third rider will then follow No. 1 and the fourth No. 2, each keeping her original distance, for when leader No. 1, having passed clubs C turns through A again, No. 2 will fall in behind, and the same with all the others, each resuming her original place. The next time No. 1 will turn to the left, No. 2 to the right, each leader being followed by half the riders, dividing alternately. To finish the ride all will follow leader No. 1, and having again been the round of the lawn should dismount _together_. To add to the effect it is most important that this should be done in line and simultaneously. Although exceedingly easy, when done with care and in time with the music, this is a very pretty ride.

The next ride is commonly called "Centre Circles." This cannot be done by more than four. Each rider will start from her own corner, and while riding separately should remember that No. 1 _always_ regulates the pace, and the others must keep in time with her. The proper distances should be kept in the ride round the ground, and then No. 1 having come abreast of club E, No. 2 abreast of club D, No. 3 with club C, and No. 4 with club B, at the word "circle" all will circle to the left, making a semi-circle, and when abreast of club A circling that _fully_, and branching off when No. 1 is again beside club C, which she encircles. Thus: As No. 1 goes round her club (E) the others will circle theirs, and as all are doing the same figure at the same time the four will meet in the centre circle (A), and when No. 1 turns off to circle club C, No. 4, who began by circling club B, will go to club D, and circle that, and No. 3 who began at Club C will go to club E (for her second circle), etc. This can be continued as long as desired, the riders No. 1 and No. 3 alternating between clubs C and E, and the other two taking clubs B and D. Each one, from her own starting point, does exactly the figure as drawn in Figure 2.

_Cross bows._]

Another ride, but requiring more accuracy in time-keeping, is that known as "cross bows," and this is one of the prettiest of all, for the whole of the lawn is occupied, and when done by practised riders and rather quickly, it is charming to watch and most fascinating to do. Again four riders are required, and they mount in line. The five clubs are in the same position as for Centre Circles. In this ride, however, there are two leaders, No. 1 being followed by rider No. 3, and No. 2 by rider No. 4. As in Figure 3, leader No. 1 will follow the _dotted_ lines, while leader No. 2 will go over the heavy lines indicated; rider No. 3 following leader No. 1, and rider No. 4 following leader No. 2. It is imperative that the original distances be kept exactly, or in crossing at points F and G there will surely be a collision otherwise. This being a complicated ride to do well, it will require practice, but I think that by following the lines of the diagram there will be no difficulty in learning it. Leader No. 1 (having led the ride all round the lawn) on reaching club B will ride straight across to club D, keeping to the right of centre club A, and turning round club D will then ride straight back to club B again, followed by rider 3. At the same time leader 2, in starting the ride, will turn short to her left, going outside club E, where she begins the "cross bow," by riding straight across the lawn to club C. Leaders 1 and 2 should reach clubs D and E simultaneously and turn them together, and leader No. 1 making her curve closer to the club than No. 2, should pass the point F on the diagram just as No. 2 reaches it on her way to club C. In this way rider 3 will pass point F immediately after No. 2, and rider 4, following No. 2 will pass F a second after No. 3. Reaching B, leader 1 will now make the double curve round clubs B and E, as shown, and leader 2 will do the same between C and D, and on reaching B and C again, they will do once more the "cross bow" as described, only this time leader 1 will pass over point G first, and leader 2 will follow, as was done before in passing F. The greatest exactitude should be kept in crossing each other, for not only does safety demand it, but when done with indecision and over zig-zag lines, the figure loses its beauty, and like all the other rides, becomes difficult to follow. It is fatal to any ride to do it in a wavering way, which will impress people with the idea that you are not sure of it yourself. The best riders I have ever seen doing these figures, have always emphasized the straight lines, thus making their curves seem more sweeping by contrast, and adding greatly to the effect.

Another thing figure riders invariably advocate, is to ride very high, and certainly once any one has ridden with both handle-bars and seat well up, they never can go back to the lower saddle. Some people indeed say it is more difficult to ride high, but I do not think when you have become used to it, that you will find it so. Of all things to be avoided I would mention the mistake of putting up the handle bars, without heightening the saddle. I heard this position once described as that of "begging," and it has always seemed to me irresistibly ludicrous ever since. If you will watch the ankle play of two riders, one with the saddle high and the other with it low, you will not hesitate an instant as to which position is preferable.

There is no limit to the number of rides you can do. Almost any book of army drills, especially for cavalry, will give you ideas for a hundred new figures, and you can vary these, not the least amusing part being in creating, adapting and arranging figures to add to the old repertoire.

_American Circle ride._]

But to go back to the well-known figures, with which one is never tired, and which always hold their own as to prettiness.

Let us continue with the "American Circle Ride." This can be ridden by any number and is a great favourite when introduced at garden-parties. With eight riders, three rows of three clubs each are needed, and these rows should be about three bicycle lengths from each other, while two bicycle lengths should separate the clubs in the rows. All the riders start in a line. On reaching line B, leader 1 goes to the left of Club 3, and No. 2 will keep to its right so that they ride side by side, divided by the clubs. The others divide in the same way and at the bottom they will turn to their respective sides, leader No. 1 following line A, and leader No. 2 line C. To begin with, they will _both_ do the circles to the left as drawn down line C, and meeting at the top they again come down the centre on either side of Clubs B, side by side. The second time they both do the ride as shewn through line A, doing the middle club the reverse way to the first and last, and for the third round, reverting to the ride as shown through Clubs C, only of course, where those following leader 2 turn to the left, those following No. 1 will turn and circle to the right. In coming down the centre the leaders can join hands, and the others naturally will do the same, but this is generally called by another name, and is often worked as another figure.