Chapter M: A. Wyllie (5)

Speaking of circling to left and right brings up another very pretty figure for a number of riders. Set your Clubs as for "Centre Circles" and begin (all following one leader) by circling Club B, going right round it as shown in Figure 2, and going on to E, then D, and finally to C, then describe the double curve as shown in 'cross bows' (between Clubs B and E of Figure 3) only ride straight round Club D--Figure 2. The Club marked E in the former, is D in Figure 2. Having gone round Club D, go on to Club E, and circle that to the right, and then on to B, and so circle every club as you come to it. Having circled D again, to finish the ride, go to Club C passing outside it, and then straight round the lawn. This can be done by two parties at the same time, one starting from Club B, the other from Club D, and each doing the same thing at opposite corner Clubs throughout the ride. I have seen as many as twenty riding in this figure together.

The "Maypole" is of course very pretty and when care is taken to ensure the riders having ribbons to match the colour they wear, or in which they have decked their bicycles, it is lovely. It is simple to execute, too, and can be done by almost any number, though I think eight or ten quite enough. Half the riders will go to the left, the other half to the right. Supposing the pole to be in the centre of the lawn, the four who are going to the right will mount at the four points of the compass, holding their ribbons high above them, in their right hands. The other four will mount, a little farther from the pole, as they will make a larger circle to begin with, and hold their ribbons in their left hands as they go to the left. In order to weave a regular pattern, those going to the left and right must pass each other in and out, as they meet. It is easier to learn the ride if Clubs are put up, where the riders should meet and pass each other, as they go in and out. There should be an even number of riders and a club for each. If eight were riding, four would pass the first club on the left and the next on their right, and so on, while the other half would pass their first Club on the right and the second club to the left. It will be found easier to keep your balance if you hold your arm high, and there is no doubt that it looks better.

The idea of passing clubs first on the right and then on the left alternately has been the foundation of a number of rides. A pretty sight is to have a circle of clubs, with a rider to each. One rider will begin by going outside the circle, from inside, and passing between the clubs at the same time that the next rider will pass from outside into the circle, and so picking their way to the left of one club and the right of the next, all the way round the ring. However, all depends on the riders passing the clubs at the same moment on their several ways, and as this requires no little practice to do well, one rarely sees this figure to advantage.

Fancy Figure Riding may sound tame to those who have never tried it, but I venture to think that those who once take to it will very quickly become fascinated, and my own belief is, that as figures become better known, and more hostesses introduce them at their gatherings, this branch of cycling will increase in popularity.

Evelyn Van Wart.

_MISS MAUD MARSHALL._

(_Figure B. Overhand Service._)]

LAWN-TENNIS.

Lawn-tennis, though still in its youth, may with some justice lay claim through its prototypes, Longue paume, Pallone, Tennis, etc., to an illustrious ancestry; the connection between the modern and the older games being sufficient to establish a relationship. It is not necessary here to trace this connection step by step, beginning perchance with the game which Louis X. of France played in the forest of Vincennes to the championship fought out on the Wimbledon Club grounds in 1897. The greater part of such a history would of necessity belong to tennis proper, which, as we know, has been a popular English game for many ages. So in the 15th century we hear of a tennis court at Windsor Castle, and the present one at Hampton Court was originally built by Henry VIII., in whose reign it was that Sir Thomas More, in his "Utopia," stigmatised tennis along with "dice, cards, tables, bowls and quoits" as "a naughty and unlawful game."

The first authentic record we have of lawn-tennis as we know it dates back no further than 1874, when Major Wingfield patented a certain pastime by him named "Sphairistike." It was not I believe claimed to be an invention, but merely an adaptation of a sport almost as old as the world itself. A sub-committee of the Marylebone Cricket Club was asked in 1875 to bring order into chaos, everyone for the twelve months of its existence having chosen to play "Sphairistike," or lawn-tennis, as it was now called, as it best pleased them. A code was drawn up, issued and quickly superseded, but at least there was a recognised length and breadth of court and height of net, which prior to this, as I have said, depended entirely upon the taste of the players. In 1875 lawn-tennis took up its headquarters at Wimbledon, being admitted to form part of the "All England Croquet Club" there. The game was introduced at Prince's Club in the same year. In 1876 tennis scoring was adopted, and it was the general opinion that lawn-tennis had come to stay. In the following year the "All England Croquet Club" determined to include the name of the new game in its title, and it became known as the "All England Croquet and Lawn-Tennis Club." In another twelve or eighteen months the visitor had pushed the host out of house and home, the club becoming henceforth headquarters of lawn-tennis alone.

It was in the July of 1877 that the first lawn-tennis championship meeting was held at Wimbledon, a silver challenge cup being offered for competition by the proprietors of _The Field_. There were twenty-two entries, Mr. Spencer-Gore carrying off the championship and the all-comers prizes. The principal results of the first tournament was to show up a serious defect, viz.: the great preponderance of games won by the server against those gained by the striker-out; the proportion being about five to three. This defect was remedied in 1878 by bringing the service line four feet nearer the net, from twenty-six feet to twenty-two feet. The net at the same time was lowered from five feet at the posts to four feet nine inches, and from three feet three inches at the centre to three feet. In 1879 two more championships were instituted, those of the Oxford University Lawn-Tennis Club, and of Ireland. The latter meeting was of particular importance to lady players, owing to the fact that it was their first competition ground. This pioneer of women's lawn-tennis championships was carried off by Miss M. Langrishe, who was also successful in securing the Irish prize in 1883 and 1886. The first occasion on which ladies competed at Wimbledon was in the year 1884, when Miss M. Watson secured the All England Championship, to which she joined the double victory of Ireland, where she defeated Miss M. Langrishe.

In 1885 the manager of the Buxton Tournament instituted a ladies' double championship, carried off by Mrs. Watts and Miss Bracewell. The championship of England and Ireland was again held by Miss M. Watson. It was during this year that Miss L. Dod first began to be known in the front ranks of lady players, though it was not until 1887 that she held the championship of England and Ireland, since when she has held the English Championship four times. In 1886 Miss Bingley, now Mrs. Hillyard, shot to the fore, defeating Miss Watson at Wimbledon. Her victory, though coming as something of a surprise, was magnificently earned, her extreme accuracy and power creating a good deal of enthusiasm.

The next epoch of importance in ladies' tennis--and the last possible variation of the game--was the institution, in 1888, of the "All England Mixed Doubles Championship," won by Mr. E. Renshaw and Mrs. Hillyard. During the same year the "Lawn-Tennis Association" came into existence, the want having for long been felt of one recognised authority, under whose rules all championship matches should be played. In 1890, the Association made important alterations in some of the previously recognised laws. The change of sides under the new _regime_ was fixed at the end of the first, third and every alternate game of the set, instead of at the end of each game. Bisques were abolished, and the quarter system of receiving odds was instituted, more of which hereafter. Subsequently the distance of the service line from the net was fixed at 21-ft., and the height of the net at 3-ft. 6-in. at the posts, and 3-ft. at the centre.

The strides made in lawn-tennis since its first institution as a game are remarkable indeed, when we consider that the first and only tournament in the land was held in 1877, and that in 1897, the list of tournament dates issued by the Lawn-Tennis Association comprised sixty-two fixtures in the United Kingdom, and seven on the Continent. I must not forget to add that in 1885, the first Covered Court Championship was held, Mr. Lawford carrying off the prize. The Ladies' Covered Court Championship was not inaugurated till 1890, when Miss Jacks secured the coveted title, Miss Austin being the holder in 1897.

The Ladies' Championship of 1897, was very closely contested, Mrs. Hillyard playing Miss C. Cooper (the holder). The first set was won by the latter lady, but owing to the severity of Mrs. Hillyard's returns, Miss Cooper was unable to maintain her advantage and was finally beaten, the sets standing at 5-7, 7-5, 6-2. Mrs. Hillyard also carried off the Ladies' Singles, defeating Mrs. Pickering by two sets to love--6-2, 7-5. The Irish Championship was also gained by the Wimbledon victor, who beat the Irish candidate, Miss Dyas, by two sets to one--7-5, 2-6, 6-3,--thus proving herself the best lady player of the year.

With many lawn-tennis players the choice of a court is unfortunately apt to exemplify the old saying that "the coat must be cut according to the cloth," though in these days of plenty when every town in the United Kingdom possesses at least one lawn-tennis club, it should not be so difficult to secure the best advantages for practice. It is a different matter of course with a private court, the formation of which may, for many reasons be a difficult task; though the advantages of a ground upon the premises is too obvious to need demonstration. In the first place the court should be chosen lengthways from N. to S., to provide for obtaining the best possible light; secondly, if the process of levelling cannot be indulged in, let the ground chosen be at least as level as possible; and thirdly, let my foregoing remark apply equally to drainage. The absence of any obstacles such as overhanging branches, or the too close proximity of shrubs, is also to be carefully thought of, and avoided. An ample margin all round being allowed for, according to the first "recommendation" in the handbook of the Lawn-Tennis Association. "There should be, if possible, a clear margin of at least 12-ft. on each side, and 21-ft. at each end of the court."

The preparation of the court should be, as far as possible, the player's individual care. Even when the turf is coarse or weed grown to begin with, the careful application of a mowing machine, a roller and a knife, will soon work wonders. Should plantains prevail, cut them off close to the soil, whenever they appear--I have known a promising court spoilt by an attempt to dig these weeds out, root and all, with the result that when play commenced, the balls shot at obtuse and unexpected angles. The mowing machine and the roller must be kept in constant use, the former should do its work every day if necessary, after the grass has finished growing, during the process once a week will be sufficient--this, perhaps, is more applicable when grass has been _sown_. Old turf should never be allowed to look even slightly ragged. The energetic use of a roller helps the grass roots to spread out and obtain the mastery over the decapitated weeds.

I quote from the Lawn-Tennis Association handbook for the dimensions of the court.

_Law 1._ "For the single-handed game, the court is 27-ft. in
width, and 78-ft. in length. It is divided across the middle
with a net, the ends of which are attached to two posts,
which stand 3-ft. outside the court on each side. The height
of the net is 3-ft. 6-in. at the posts, and 3-ft. at the
centre. At each end of the court, parallel with the net, and
at a distance of 39-ft. from it, are drawn the _base-lines_,
the extremities of which are connected by the _side-lines_.
Half-way between the side-lines and parallel with them, is
drawn the _half-court-line_, dividing the space on each
side of the net into two equal parts, and called the _right
and left courts_. On each side of the net, at a distance
of 21-ft. from it, and parallel with it, are drawn the
_service-lines_."

_78 feet._]

When a double court is required, the base-lines must be prolonged 4-ft. 6-in. in each direction, when by joining the four new points, the side-lines of a double court are obtained; it will not now be necessary to prolong the inner side-lines further than the service lines.

The measuring of a court is always apt to be tedious work, but with a little method, a measuring tape, a reel of stout string, some small wooden pegs and a fair supply of patience, the difficulties are soon overcome. The first necessity is to fix the posts in position--I have always found it simplified matters to represent the net by a piece of string from post to post--then measure off a distance of 3-ft. from each, inwards of course. From the point now obtained, measure the side-lines, 78-ft. which gives us 39-ft. each way from the posts. From the side-lines now measure 4-1/2-ft. inwards, and 21-ft. each way from the net string for the service-lines. It now only remains for these lines to be joined along their base by four others running parallel with the net, two on each side of it, respectively termed the base-lines and the service-lines. Half-way between the service-lines and parallel with the side-lines, a line is next drawn to form the half-court-line, which accomplishes the task. Each point as it is measured should be marked off with a peg; then when all the dimensions are taken, a piece of string should be pulled taut from peg to peg, serving as guide to the marker. As a last word on the subject, I may say that I have never heard a low price in markers, nets, posts, or indeed in any implement of the game, recommended as being really economical.

As to balls they can be obtained in many makes, but "Ayre's Championship" stand first in the list of excellence. By the laws of the Lawn Tennis Association the weight of a ball shall be not less than 1-1/8-oz., or more than 2-oz. In 1877, the year of the first Championship, the minimum weight was 1-1/4-oz., and the maximum 1-1/2-oz.

_The Racket._ On the fortunate choice of a racket, depends literally at least half the success or failure of any battle fought with it. Writing of rackets, Mr. C. A. Heathcote says: "The essential points are--a good hoop, free from knots, with a well-marked and continuous grain, plain wooden handle, round or slightly octagonal, fitting the hand of the player, attached to the middle piece without any perceptible interval, and good strong gut."[7] It is an essential point that the racket should not be too heavy; on the other hand an over-light racket is far from desirable, except perhaps for a volleying game. From 12 to 13-oz. is usually considered a good weight range for a lady's racket, though I have frequently met with ladies who never touched anything under 14-oz. Indeed, in a matter of this sort, the choice must rest very much with the player herself, who will soon find from experience what weight suits her best. And so long as she confines her selection to the first makes, she cannot go very far wrong.

_Scoring._ The only satisfactory manner in which lawn-tennis scoring can be dealt with on paper, is by quoting once more from the laws of the Lawn-Tennis Association, thus:

_Law 21._ On either player winning his first stroke, the score
is called 15 for that player, on either player winning his
second stroke, the score is called 30 for that player; on
either player winning his third stroke, the score is called
40 for that player; and the fourth stroke won by either
player is scored game for that player, except as below:

If both players have won three strokes, the score is called
deuce, and the next stroke won by either player is called
advantage for that player. If the same player win the next
stroke, he wins the game; if he lose the next stroke the score
is again called deuce, and so on until either player win the
two strokes immediately following the score at deuce, when the
game is scored for that player.

_Law 22._ The player who first wins six games wins a set,
except as below:

If both players win five games, the score is called games-all,
and the next game won by either player is scored advantage-game
for that player. If the same player win the next game, he wins
the set; if he lose the next game, the score is again called
games-all; and so on until either player wins the two games
immediately following the score of games-all, when he wins the
set.

_Note._ Players may agree not to play advantage sets, but to
decide the set by one game after arriving at the score of
games-all.

_Odds._ In the year 1888, bisques--which had been borrowed from tennis--were abolished. A bisque is one stroke which may be claimed at any time during a set. The principal disadvantage of this system lay in the difficulty of employing it judiciously, thereby causing a certain mental strain, possibly injurious to the player's form. The bisque gave place to the "quarter" and the "perfect" systems, which in their turn were superseded by the "sixth system" in 1894, now in universal use. Roughly, the sixth system of handicapping is to receive odds of one, two, three, four, or five strokes in every six games of a set; each given stroke being respectively described as one-sixth, two-sixths, three-sixths, four-sixths, five-sixths, fifteen. For complete and detailed tables of the system of handicapping, the reader is referred to the handbook of the Lawn-Tennis Association.

_On the subject of suitable clothing_ much might be written. For any form of outdoor exercise, the two chief requisites of costume are warmth and lightness. A thin flannel shirt is more useful than anything, worn with a _short_ light skirt. I have seen such terrible and distressing results arise from the wearing of skirts which, though short in front, dropped at the back that I cannot too strongly emphasise the need for _all-round_ shortness; loss of temper and dignity being among the lesser evils accruing from neglect of this particular. The shoes worn should be strong and serviceable, usefulness never being allowed to give way to the merely ornamental; but now-a-days it is an easy matter to combine the two qualities. For play in damp weather it is permissible to wear shoes with a leather sole into which short nails, known as steel points, are fitted. These are allowed on all grounds. In the matter of hats a straw sailor with a widish brim is the most workmanlike form of head gear possible. It is perhaps scarcely necessary to add that perfect looseness of every garment is a _sine quâ non_ for the freedom of movement necessary in lawn-tennis.

_UNDER-HAND SERVICE._]

Good form is as much an essential in the pursuit of any sport or pastime as it is in the manners and usages of polite society, and the cultivation of style is not an achievement purely confined to the wayfarer in the paths of literature. In lawn-tennis, as in everything else, a good beginning makes a good noontide; and really, when one comes to think about it, it is as easy to learn well as badly. Therefore it is never advisable for a beginner to be content with another beginner as her opponent. No doubt a certain diffidence may be felt by the inexperienced player in throwing down the gauntlet to a more practised hand, because of the lack of interest and excitement for the latter in the game. But this consideration should never be allowed to deter the seizing of an opportunity of playing against an opponent from whom something may be learnt. There are plenty of good-natured people in the world, and an ounce of practical demonstration, is worth a ton's weight of written explanation as to the different actions necessary for playing the varied strokes, which go to compose the game of lawn-tennis.

_Service._ Like everything else worth having, a good service is extremely difficult to acquire. It is always best to ascertain by experiment and observation what particular style of service would seem most within one's power of attainment, and this style should be kept to. There is nothing more detrimental to good play than indecision or constant change of form. Experiments, though doubtless necessary at first, should be discontinued as soon as possible.

The majority of ladies, for a variety of reasons, prefer to serve underhand. Miss L. Dod, in her able contribution in the _Badminton Library_, is of the opinion that unless in exceptional cases, overhand service tends merely to a waste of strength without making the stroke more difficult to take than the ordinary underhand service.[8] In the face of such competent authority it would be fatuous to advance a contrary opinion; but if any special aptitude is felt for the overhand service, it will probably be found easier to practice with success than the underhand.

The server should stand either in the middle of the base-line, or a few feet to the right or left of it, though she is at liberty to take up any position on the base-line that she chooses. According to Law 7 of the game: "The server should stand with one foot beyond--_i.e._, further from the net than--the base-line, and with the other foot upon the base-line, and shall deliver the service from the right and left courts alternately, beginning from the right." This law is of great importance and should never, even in the most ordinary play, be disregarded. _For the underhand service_, the body should be slightly bent and the racket swung well up. I have seen the swing carried high above the right shoulder, the ball being dropped in front of the racket as it arrives near the middle of the downward stroke (Fig. A). _In the overhand service_, the body should be inclined somewhat backward, and the racket brought well above the head (as in Fig. B) to obtain the utmost possible reach. The ball is held somewhat below the level of the left shoulder, and thrown gently in front of the descending racket. Before a great degree of swiftness is attempted in either of these two services, accuracy should be ensured. In fact a well-known saying might be profitably adapted for the use of lawn-tennis players, both proficient and non-proficient: "Take care of accuracy, and brilliancy will take care of itself."

For the purpose of training the eye, it is no bad device to place a ball on the spot where the service is intended to drop and take aim at it. The satisfaction of hitting the mark will not be frequent, but the practice will at least impart some idea of locality. In service when one fault has already been made, it is wonderfully easy to drop into the bad habit of sending an easy catch to represent the second stroke; neither is this reprehensible custom entirely confined to beginners who might, perhaps, be excused for exercising a certain amount of caution over their last chance. Over and over again I have seen ladies, who did not by any means count themselves tyros, indulging in this defective style of play. They appear to think that one ball either "smashed" into the net, or sent a dozen yards out of court absolves them from further effort; their second stroke being as harmfully innocuous as their first was mistakenly vicious. And in this case again, nothing but practice will give equality. _To obtain a twist_ the ball should be struck first with the left side of the racket--which will be held in a more horizontal position than for the regular forward stroke--and as it were run across its face, or in other words the racket is twisted round the ball from right to left.

_To receive a service_ the striker-out should, generally speaking, stand near the base-line, opposite the centre of the service court, a position which commands either a fore or back-handed stroke. Of course her position must naturally depend upon the style of service given, and here again, nothing but experience will impart the intuitive consciousness of the exact spot on which the ball is likely to drop. Through excess of zeal and over anxiety to make a correct return, the non-proficient player will nearly always commit the error of rushing at her stroke and hitting the ball while it is yet rising, instead of waiting to catch it in the fall and lift it with a nearly vertical racket over the net. The ball should so to speak be allowed to meet the player half way _for an ordinary stroke_. Of course in the case of a cut or a screw, which may bound backwards instead of forwards, it is advisable to approach the stroke more closely, but even in such a case it is better to wait and see the angle of rising before striking. Any undue hurry will cause the ball to perform the feat known as "going through the racket." _For the fore-handed stroke_, the racket should be held in a firm grasp (as in Fig. C), great care being taken that the position of the fingers is correct from the first, the ball being struck with a full racket. _For the back-handed stroke_, the grip is changed (see Fig. D). This change may at first appear a serious difficulty, but after a little practice at fore and back-handed strokes alternately, the change will become both unconscious and mechanical.

The back-handed stroke is a weak point with many players, for which reason extra attention should be bestowed upon its cultivation. Any attempt to run round the ball, or to take it "with both hands," should from the first be severely discouraged. Practising for the back-handed stroke against a blank wall is advised by many competent authorities as a useful means of overcoming preliminary awkwardness.

_FORE-HANDED STROKE._]

The position of the feet and body in lawn-tennis is of the utmost importance. The player should await her stroke standing facing the net with the feet a little apart, and the weight of the body resting on the toes. In the case of a fore-hand stroke the left foot should be brought quickly across the right, by way of turning the body sideways, while the racket is swung back in readiness to receive the stroke. When the ball is struck, the weight of the body is shifted from the right foot to the left. For a back-handed stroke the right foot is brought across the left, and whilst striking the weight is shifted from the left foot to the right. _The Volley_ has ever been a subject of controversy in lawn-tennis annals. We all know what an instrument of defence the stroke became off the rackets of the Messrs. Renshaw; but at present we are considering lawn-tennis from a woman's point of view, which is a very different thing. The ordinary variety of the volley is employed to save change of position necessary in taking a ball off the ground. This stroke resembles a "lob," and should be so placed as to obviate the chance of punishment. _The volley from the net_ is an overhand stroke and may be played with either a bent or extended arm, according to the force employed. The latter variety, known as the "smash," is given with an uncontrolled swing of the racket. In the former stroke, where the force used is not so great, an excellent effect may be obtained by a quick turn of the wrist, either to right or left, at the moment of striking the ball, causing it to drop near the base of the side line. _The volley from the service line_ is played with a horizontal racket, which may be held either below the bend of the shoulder, or almost close to the ground, when the player is obliged to stoop for the purpose of "lifting" the ball over the net.

_The half volley_ is a stroke as difficult to attain as to describe. Briefly it consists in blocking the ball--roughly speaking--within the first half-foot of its rise from the drop. The difficulty of the stroke lies in estimating correctly the exact spot on which the ball will drop, and in having the racket ready _just behind_ that spot. The stroke is chiefly used in cases where retreat is impossible, or at least likely to be attended with ill-success, and when the reach is too short for a volley; but it is a stroke which should be indulged in with caution, as, unless in the case of exceptionally good players, it is likely to prove a dismal failure. That it can generally be dispensed with by either a step forward, or a few steps back is consoling to the medium performer.

_BACK-HANDED STROKE._]

_The "Lob"_ claims Mr. Haslow as its discoverer. This gentleman, chiefly owing to the agency of the stroke, succeeded in defeating the champion, Mr. Spencer-Gore, who first practised volleying tactics, in 1878. The "lob" is a useful invention against net play, being merely a stroke lifted high over the opponent's head, thus preventing a volleying return. The counter tactics to this stroke are technically known as the "smash," to which reference has already been made, and the "lob volley." The former of these two strokes consists in getting the racket--either by reach or springing into the air--above the ball and smashing it with all the strength at the player's command, to the confusion of the opponent, and the alarm and consternation of the bye-standers. _The "lob" volley_ consists in catching the dropping ball with a vertical drive similar to the ordinary forward drive played off the ground.

Lady players will, as a general rule, find the back game quite as effective, and a good deal more graceful than forward or volleying tactics, which owing to various circumstances, such as the necessity for extra reach and freedom of movement--are more suited to a man's play than a woman's. The back game with the aid of judicious "placing" will always prove hard to beat, a few well-worn maxims for its successful issue being: to hit as hard, and to keep the ball as low as possible. Neither to court nor to avoid volleying, but to take it as it comes. To thoroughly master the art of "placing." Never to relax good style by slovenly play, and finally to follow in all cases the advice of a well-known authority, "To start at once, to arrive in time, and never to be in a hurry."

M. Marshall.

FOOTNOTES:

[7] Lawn-Tennis, Chap. VII. Badminton Library. C. E. Heathcote.

[8] Lawn-tennis, Chap. XVI., _Badminton Library_.

APPENDICES.

GLOSSARY OF NAUTICAL TERMS.

_Abeam_: Said of an object that is in a line at right angles
from the centre of a vessel's side.

_About_: The act of a vessel going from one tack to the other,
when working to windward.

_Abreast_: Beam and beam; abeam. Two ships are said to be
abreast when alongside of each other.

_A-lee_: The situation of the tiller or helm when it is put
down or to leeward, when going about, or luffing.

_All in the wind_: When a vessel's sails are shaking from
sailing too near the wind.

_A-weather_: The opposite of a-lee. The helm is a-weather
when "put up" in the direction of the wind to bear away for
"gybing," "wearing," or merely to alter course and keep a
point or so more off the wind.

_To back a sail_: To bring the sail round so that the wind
comes on its other side.

_Backstays_: Large ropes used to support the masts. They come
aft either side of the ship from the masthead.

_Balloon foresail or fore staysail_: An enormous sail set
on the forestay of cutters and schooners, and used for
close-hauled sailing in light weather.

_Balloon-jib_: An enormous jib made of light canvas carried
by fore-and-aft rigged craft; the foot extends from the
bowsprit end to the fore-rigging. It is used when sailing
from one to eight or nine points free.

_Balloon-Topsail_: A square-headed gaff topsail of very large
proportions, set with a yard and a jack-yard at clew; to the
latter the sheet is bent.

_Battens_: Strips of wood let into the mast to prevent its
wearing. Strips of wood put round hatches over tarpaulins
to keep the latter down. A batten of wood is also used for
several purposes on a vessel's rigging. A thin splint of wood
used by naval architects for making curved lines.

_Beam_: The breadth of a ship. The midship side of a ship.
Abaft the beam is behind the centre of the ship's side, and
forward of the beam is in front of that centre. See also
"Abeam."

_Bear away_: To put the helm up and cause the vessel's head to
go off the wind.

_Beating to windward_: Making for a point to windward by short
tacks.

_Belay_: To make a rope fast to a pin or cavel, without
hitching or seizing. "Belay there!" Stop hauling, and make
fast.

_Bend_: To attach a sail to a yard. To bend a cable is to
attach it to an anchor. A knot by which two ropes are
fastened together.

_Bight_: The loop of a rope when doubled.

_Bilge-pieces_: Placed on a vessel's side to support her when
grounding.

_Blanketing_: A slang term, used when one vessel covers or
becalms another with her sails.

_Board_: The distance a vessel traverses before tacking when
working to windward. To make a "sternboard" is to make way
by the stern, as a vessel will often do in a tideway or when
in irons. To go "by the board" is said of a mast when it is
carried away.

_Bobstay_: A rope or chair with tackle and double blocks
attached to the bowsprit end and stem of a vessel, and used
to keep the bowsprit down when the jib is set.

_Boom_: The spar that extends the foot of fore-and-aft sails.

_Bowline_: A rope used to stretch taut the after leech of a
sail when on a wind. A vessel is said to be on a bowline when
close hauled.

_Bowsprit_: A spar that extends from the bows of a vessel.
A "running" bowsprit is such as a cutter has, and is
horizontal, and can be reefed at pleasure.

_Brace_: A rope by which a yard is worked.

_Break off_: A vessel when close-hauled is said to break off
when the wind comes more ahead.

_Bridle_: Two or more ropes extending from the leech of a sail
to which the bowline is attached.

_Cable length_: 100 fathoms, or 200 yards. A cable length
denoted on a chart is 607·5 feet.

_To Check-sheets_: To ease them off.

_Claw_: To beat to windward off a lee-shore, or generally to
beat to windward when such is difficult on account of heavy
weather.

_Cleat_: A piece of wood used to belay ropes to.

_Clew_: The after lower corner of a fore-and-aft sail.

_Clew-line_: A line used to hoist up the lower corners of a
sail.

_Close-hauled_: When a vessel's sheets are hauled so flat that
she sails as near the wind as possible. A schooner yacht will
sail 4-1/2 points off the wind, and a cutter about 4-1/4.

_Coamings_: Pieces of timber forming a frame on the deck round
a hatchway or skylight.

_Crank_: Said of a vessel when she will not stand up well to
her canvas. A narrow and deep vessel is sure to be "crank."

_Cross sea_: A sea or swell caused by a wind different from
that blowing at the time the cross sea is running.

_Cross-trees_: Pieces of timber supported by the trestle-trees,
used to spread the topmast rigging.

_Crutch_: Forked pieces of timber or iron fixed into a socket
of the taffrail, and used to support the boom when the
mainsail is stowed.

_Cuddy_: A cabin under the deck, put in the fore-part of small
boats.

_Davits_: Iron stanchions or pieces of timber fixed on a
vessel's side or stern, to carry boats, they being hoisted to
the davits by tackles.

_Earings_: Small ropes used to fasten the upper corners of
sails to the yards.

_Ease off, or Ease away_: To slacken out the fall of a tackle,
sheet, or any rope that is belayed.

_Ease the helm_: To put the helm down when close-hauled, so
that a vessel's head may enter a sea fairly. Generally to put
the helm more amidships when it has been put either to port
or starboard.

_Eyelet-hole_: Holes in a sail through which a lacing is passed
or reef nettles rove.

_Fair_: Said of a wind which a vessel has when she can lay her
course a point or any number of points free.

_Fetch_: To arrive at a point when sailing to windward by
weathering it.

_Fly up in the wind_: Said of a vessel when she comes up
suddenly head to wind, by reason of her griping or through
the bad steering of the helmsman.

_Foot_: The lower part of a sail or mast.

_Fore-and-aft sails_: Sails that are set on gaffs and stays,
and not on yards.

_Fore-reach_: When close-hauled to sail ahead of another
vessel. To fore-reach to windward is to sail ahead of a
vessel and yet to windward of her at the same time.

_Free-wind_: When a vessel has the wind so as not to be
close-hauled. When the wind comes abeam or on the quarter,
a vessel is said to be going large. A fair wind may mean
free, large, or any wind that blows between 1-2 points of
the compass from the point on which the vessel would be
close-hauled.

_Gaskets_: Ropes used to secure sails to their yards or booms
when furled or stowed.

_Goose-winged_: Said of a schooner whose mainsail and foresail
are extended on opposite sides as she runs before the wind.

_Guy_: A rope used to prevent a boom swinging aboard either
fore or aft. In running before the wind a guy is often
attached to the main boom of a schooner to prevent a sudden
gybe.

_Gybe_: When running before the wind, to bring the wind on the
other side by putting up the helm, and thereby cause the
sails to fall over.

_Halyards_: The ropes used to hoist sails, yards, etc.

_Hatches_: Openings in the decks.

_Haul aft a sheet_: To haul a sail flatter or at a less angle
to the wind.

_Haul her wind_: Said of a vessel going free, when she comes up
closer to the wind and flattens her sheets.

_Helm_: Generally applied to the tiller, but properly it means
the whole apparatus for steering.

_Housed_: The situation of a topmast that has been lowered.

_In irons_: A vessel is said to be in irons when in going about
she comes up head to wind, and will not fill off one way or
the other.

_Jack-stay_: A stay along a mast or yard to which a sail is
bent.

_Jack-yard_: A small yard used to extend the foot of a
fore-and-aft balloon topsail that extends beyond the end of
the gaff.

_Jaws_: The part of a gaff or boom which encircles the mast.

_Jib_: A triangular sail set on a stay in square-rigged ships,
and then called a standing jib.

_Jib-boom_: A spar that extends beyond the bowsprit. A flying
jib-boom is another spar that extends beyond the jib-boom.

_Jib-foresail_: The fore-staysail of fore-and-aft schooners.

_Jib-purchase_: A tackle used for setting up a jib.

_Jib-topsail_: A triangular sail set on the fore-topmast stay
of fore-and-aft vessels.

_Jib-traveller_: The travelling ring that encircles the
bowsprit to which the tack of a jib is secured and hauled out
on the bowsprit or jib-boom, as the case may be.

_Larboard_: Port. (Obsolete.)

_Large_: A vessel is said to be going large when she has the
wind three or four points free.

_Leech_: The outer edge of a sail.

_Luff_: To sail closer to the wind.

_Lug-sail_: A sail set on a yard, as generally used in small
boats.

_Main-boom_: The spar that extends the foot of the mainsail of
a fore-and-aft craft.

_Mainsheet_: The sheet of a mainsail.

_Martingale_: A short spar under the bowsprit, used to give
more spread to the stays that set the bowsprit or jib-boom
down.

_Nautical mile_: 2025·2 yards: thus 13 knots or nautical miles
are nearly equal to 15 statute miles.

_Nautical day_: From noon till noon, 24 hours.

_Nothing off_: Said to a helmsman when he has to keep a vessel
as close to wind as practicable.

_Off-and-on_: Working along a shore by standing off, and then
on, by short boards.

_Painter_: A rope attached to the bows of a boat, used to make
her fast to a landing-place, etc.

_Preventer stays_: Additional ropes set up taut to prevent
spars carrying away when a vessel is under a press of canvas.

_Reef-points_: Short pieces of rope by which the foot of a sail
is secured when a reef is rolled up, or, as the nautical term
has it, hauled down.

_Reef-tackles_: The tackles by which the reef-pendants are
hauled down.

_Schooner_: A fore-and-aft rigged craft with two masts.
Sometimes schooners carry square topsails, and then are
distinguished by being called "square-topsail schooners."

_Spinnaker_: A modern adaptation of a jib-shaped sail, often
seen set from the top masthead and boomed out from the mast.
It is made of light canvas, and hoists to the topmast-head,
and is boomed out from the mast. Some cutters carry enormous
spinnakers, containing in one sail nearly as much canvas as
is spread in mainsail and topsail. A spinnaker is a very
handy sail, and preferable to a squaresail in light weather.

_Steady!_: An order after the helm has been put to port or
starboard, to put it no farther in either direction, but
bring it back amidships. When the wind is fair, an order
given to a steersman to "Steady!" is to keep the helm as it
is.

_Tack_: The lower weather corner of a sail.

_To tack_: To go about from one tack to the other.

_Tackle_: A purchase composed of blocks and a rope, for
multiplying power.

_Tail block_: A tackle consisting of two blocks, to one of
which is attached a length of rope for fastening to any
object at pleasure.

_Taunt_: Tall.

_Taut_: Tight.

_Thwart_: Athwart; across. The seat of a boat.

_Tiller_: The bar of wood or iron by which the rudder is
worked.

_Toggle_: A pin placed through the bight or eye of a rope to
secure it round a stay, mast, etc.

_Top a boom_: To raise one end of it by hoisting on the
topping-lifts.

_Topmast_: The next mast to the lower mast; in ships, the
topmast is succeeded by top-gallant mast and royal mast.

_Wear_: To come round with the wind until it blows on the
opposite side. In tacking, a vessel is turned round against
the wind.

_Yaw_: A vessel is said to yaw when in running she flies off
her course.

_Yawl_: A vessel rigged like a cutter, with the addition of a
short mizzen-mast.

LAWN-TENNIS.

LAWS OF THE GAME.

THE SINGLE-HANDED GAME.

1.--For the single-handed game, the Court is 27 ft. in width and 78 ft. in length. It is divided across the middle by a net, the ends of which are attached to the tops of two posts, which stand 3 ft. outside the Court on each side. The height of the net is 3 ft. 6 in. at the posts, and 3 ft. at the centre. At each end of the Court, parallel with the net, and at a distance of 39 ft. from it, are drawn the _Base-lines_, the extremities of which are connected by the _side-lines_. Half-way between the side-lines, and parallel with them, is drawn the _half-court-line_, dividing the space on each side of the net into two equal parts, called the _right and left courts_. On each side of the net, at a distance of 21 ft. from it, and parallel with it, are drawn the _service-lines_.

2.--The balls shall not be less than 2-1/2 in., nor more than 2-9/16 in. in diameter; and not less than 1-7/8 oz., nor more than 2 oz. in weight.

3.--In matches where Umpires are appointed, their decision shall be final; but where a Referee is appointed, an appeal shall lie to him from the decision of an Umpire on a question of law.

4.--The choice of sides and the right of serving during the first games shall be decided by toss; provided that, if the winner of the toss choose the right to serve, the other player shall have the choice of sides, and _vice-versâ_; and provided that the winner of the toss may, if he prefer it, require the other player to make the first choice.

5.--The players shall stand on opposite sides of the net; the player who first delivers the ball shall be called the _Server_, the other the _Striker-out_.

6.--At the end of the first game the Striker-out shall become Server, and the Server shall become Striker-out; and so on alternately in the subsequent games of the set.

7.--The Server shall stand with one foot beyond (_i.e._, further from the net than) the base line, and with the other foot upon the base line, and shall deliver the service from the right and left Courts alternately, beginning from the right.

8.--The ball served must drop within the service-line, half-court-line, and side-line of the Court which is diagonally opposite to that from which it was served, or upon any such line.

9.--It is a _fault_ if the service be delivered from the wrong Court, or if the Server do not stand as directed in Law 7, or if the ball served drop in the net or beyond the service-line, or if it drop out of Court or in the wrong Court; it is not a _fault_ if the Server's foot, which is beyond the base-line, do not touch the ground at the moment at which the service is delivered.

10.--A fault may not be taken.

11.--After a fault, the Server shall serve again from the same Court from which he served that fault, unless it was a fault because served from the wrong Court.

12.--A fault may not be claimed after the next service has been delivered.

13.--The service may not be _volleyed_, _i.e._, taken before it touches the ground.

14.--The Server shall not serve until the Striker-out is ready. If the latter attempt to return the service, he shall be deemed to be ready.

15.--A ball is _in-play_ from the moment at which it is delivered in service (unless a fault) until it has been volleyed by the Striker-out in his first stroke, or has dropped in the net or out of Court, or has touched either of the players or anything that he wears or carries, except his racket in the act of striking, or has been struck by either of the players with his racket more than once consecutively, or has been volleyed before it has passed over the net, or has failed to pass over the net before its first bound (except as provided in Law 17), or has touched the ground twice consecutively on either side of the net, though the second time may be out of Court.

16.--It is a _let_ if the ball served touch the net, provided the service be otherwise good; or if a service or fault be delivered when the Striker-out is not ready; or if either player be prevented by an accident beyond his control from serving or returning the ball in play. In case of a let, the service or stroke counts for nothing, and the server shall serve again.

17.--It is a good return although the ball touch the net, or, having passed outside either post, drop on or within any of the lines which bound the Court into which it is returned.

18.--The Server wins a stroke if the Striker-out volley the service, or fail to return the service or the ball in-play (except in the case of a let), or return the service or ball in play so that it drop outside any of the lines which bound his opponent's Court, or otherwise lose a stroke, as provided by Law 20.

19.--The Striker-out wins a stroke if the Server serve two consecutive faults, or fail to return the ball in-play (except in the case of a let), or return the ball in-play so that it drop outside any of the lines which bound his opponent's Court, or otherwise lose a stroke, as provided by Law 20.

20.--Either player loses a stroke if the ball in-play touch him or anything that he wears or carries, except his racket in the act of striking; or it he touch or strike the ball in-play with his racket more than once consecutively; or if he touch the net or any of its supports while the ball is in-play; or if he volley the ball before it has passed the net.

21.--On either player winning his first stroke, the score is called 15 for that player; on either player winning his second stroke, the score is called 30 for that player; on either player winning his third stroke, the score is called 40 for that player; and the fourth stroke won by either player is scored game for that player; except as below:--

If both players have won three strokes, the score is called
deuce; and the next stroke won by either player is scored
advantage for that player. If the same player win the next
stroke, he wins the game; if he lose the next stroke, the
score is again called deuce; and so on until either player
win the two strokes immediately following the score at deuce,
when the game is scored for that player.

22.--The player who first wins six games wins a set; except as below:--

If both players win five games, the score is called
games-all; and the next game won by either player is scored
advantage-game for that player. If the same player win the
next game, he wins the set; if he lose the next game, the
score is again called games-all; and so on until either
player win the two games immediately following the score of
games-all, when he wins the set.

_Note._--Players may agree not to play advantage-sets, but to decide the set by one game after arriving at the score of games-all.

23.--The players shall change sides at the end of every set, but the Umpire, on appeal from either party, before the toss for choice, shall direct the players to change sides at the end of the _first, third, and every subsequent alternate game of each set_, provided that in such event the players shall not change sides at the end of a set if the number of games in such set be even; but if the appeal be made after a match has been begun, the Umpire shall only direct the players to change sides at the end of the _first, third, and every subsequent alternate game of the odd and concluding set_.

24.--When a series of sets is played, the player who was Server in the last game of one set, shall be Striker-out in the first game of the next.

ODDS.

25.--In the case of received odds:--

_a._ One sixth of fifteen is one stroke given in every six
games of a set in the position shown by the annexed table.

_b._ Similarly, two-sixths, three-sixths, four-sixths, and
five-sixths of fifteen are respectively two, three, four,
and five strokes given in every six games of a set in the
position shown by the table.