Chapter II: Part 2
The relative degrees of vitality are thus shewn in a more perspicuous manner than by any other method and from the above table it is evident that the temperature of Shrewsbury is in most instances nearly equal, and in some superior, to the warm climates of France and Switzerland, and extremely favourable to longevity.
The elevation of the town, together with the purity of its atmosphere and the excellence of its water, renders its situation extremely salubrious. Contagious diseases are very rare. The scarlet fever, measles, hooping cough, &c. are usually very mild. The residents in the immediate vicinity of the Severn are most liable to illness, and in these cases the inflammatory symptoms generally run high. Many parts of the town and its environs may justly be recommended as eligible residences for invalids, who visit Shrewsbury from Ireland, Wales, and various parts of the United Kingdom, to avail themselves of the able medical assistance which the town affords.
Shrewsbury is built on two hills, of easy ascent, which for the most part gently slope to the river Severn; by this stream the ground on which the town stands is formed into a peninsula, the castle being judiciously placed on the isthmus, and thus commanding the entrances to the town.
Like most ether places not of Roman origin, its streets are extremely irregular; nor had its buildings, until within these few years, any claim to superiority, the ancient houses being chiefly built with projections into the public streets—an inconvenience very properly remedied by the elegance of modern erections. Its suburbs have of late years very much increased, and, in conjunction with this, many excellent improvements have been made in removing obstructions from the entrances to the town: but, notwithstanding the natural advantages it possesses, the bad state of its pavement and the filthy picture continually presented by its streets, is a source of poignant regret.
The plain of Shropshire, in which the town is situated, is of considerable extent, divided by the Severn into two unequal portions, and though flat, when compared with the surrounding hills, of a very varied surface. Its greatest length from N. to S. is about 30 miles, comprehending the space between Whitchurch and Church Stretton; its breadth from Oswestry to Coalbrookdale, is about 28 miles. Shrewsbury, when viewed from any of its adjacent eminences, presents a beautiful and interesting scene, and the eye of the spectator is led to survey the most extensive amphitheatre of mountains which perhaps the island can boast. The Wrekin is connected by the gentle hills of Acton Burnel and Frodesley, (over which the gigantic summit of Brown Clee is conspicuous,) with the Lawley and Coredock, generally called the Stretton Hills, from whence the Longmynd, Stiperstones, and Long Mountain, from an uninterrupted chain, with the bold and precipitous cliffs of the Kefn y Castyr, Moel y Golfa, and Breyddin, surmounted by an obelisk in honour of the late gallant Lord Rodney; thence the horizon is bounded by the stupendous Berwin range, losing their blue summits in the clouds; while the northern view is terminated by the humbler but beautiful eminences of Grinshill, Pymhill, Hawkstone, Haughmond, &c., round to the Wrekin. The whole of this vast circle incloses a finely wooded and beautifully diversified champaign country, of gentle hill and dale, studded with numerous gentlemen’s seats—watered with various streams—eminently fertile in arable, meadow, and pasture; and amply justifying the eulogium of an ancient British poet, who, after gazing, as he tells us, on the plain of Shropshire, from the height of Charlton Hill, calls it the paradise of _Cymru_. {33} The glittering rays of the Sun gilding the lofty spires of the town—the bold and ancient appearance of its ivy-mantled castle—the lovely pleasure and garden grounds which nearly surround it and gently slope from the mouldering ruins of its once warlike walls to the majestic Severn, which, fringed with lofty tufts of trees of various foliages, “proudly rolls its crystal stream along;” altogether form one of the most picturesque and enchanting prospects any where to be met with. Added to this, the well known salubrity of its air, and the many agreeable promenades which on every side of the town present themselves; and the compiler thinks he will not be esteemed too vain in asserting, that his native town is not surpassed, (though, for aught he knows, it may be equalled,) in point of situation, wholesomeness, and picturesque scenery, by any place of equal size in Great Britain.
The general character and manners of the inhabitants of Shrewsbury, as they assume no characteristic sufficient to distinguish them from those of other towns similarly circumstanced and situated, will not long detain the attention of the visitor. He will not often be disgusted with the petty assumptions of office clothed with a “little brief authority,” nor will he be displeased in perceiving, in a large majority of the inhabitants, a considerable portion of civility, hospitality, social intercourse, and liberality of opinion; and if great refinement of manners do not characterise them in the aggregate, the stranger will have employed his leisure to little advantage, who does not soon discover in the town a very extensive share of that frankness, benevolence, and warmth which is a prominent feature in the old-British character. Numbers in the different ranks of society are to be met with whose lives are adorned with the honours due to industry, integrity and virtue; and if we add the munificence with which the various public charities are supported by Salopians in general—who
— Learn the luxury of doing good,
in the diffusion of a part of these superfluities with which a benignant Providence has crowned their labours, the writer thinks he is not saying too much when he observes that benevolence is strongly marked in the general portrait. The different churches and chapels are, on the whole, well attended; and in few towns of equal size is there a more decent and orderly observance of the Sabbath. It is, however, to be regretted that many of its residents are destitute of that urbanity and politeness which should ever be displayed to strangers; but it is probable this circumstances to be attributed chiefly to the pride of nobility and ancestry, which looks down with half averted eyes on supposed inferiority; and to the want of an enlarged commixture with mankind, producing a generosity of disposition, and moderation of principle which are the natural results of extensive commercial pursuits.
Difference of opinion on the actions of public men,—on the measures pursued by persons holding the first political situations in the state, and on religious subjects; are compatible with the purest loyalty and most fervent patriotism, and will be readily acknowledged by those who possess any share of liberality add reflection.
To the infinite credit of Shrewsbury, its population has not been led to the perpetration of any of those acts of violence and atrocity which have disgraced other places, and which are caused by the difference of religious opinion, of the political effervescence of the times in which such outrages may have taken place. This observation, however, is not intended to impute to the inhabitants any thing like a state of passive obedience or wilful ignorance—far otherwise. This judicious conduct by which the welfare and good order of the town have been so essentially promoted, is perhaps rather attributable to the candour and prudence of the leaders of the various political parties, or to the virtue of mutual forbearance happily exercised by the inhabitants at large.
On subjects, however connected with the safety and prosperity of the British Empire, and the welfare of the illustrious house of Brunswick, Shrewsbury has ever been among the foremost in displaying its patriotic spirit and affectionate attachment. The loyalty of the inhabitants has long been pre-eminent, so much so, that it is celebrated by the elegant pen of Shenstone.
Admir’d Salopia, that with venial pride
Eyes her bright form in Severn’s ambient wave;
Fam’d for her cares in loyal perils try’d,
HER DAUGHTERS LOVELY AND HER STRIPLINGS BRAVE.
As early as the year 1715, this town displayed its consequence and attachment to the present royal family in a very spirited manner. A considerable body of horse and foot was raised by Lord Newport, Sir C. Lloyd, Bart., W. Kynaston, T. Gardner, and J. Fownes, Esquires, for the protection of Shrewsbury; the walls were put in a state of defence, new gates, &c. made, and brigadier Dormer’s regiment, then lying in this town, received orders to march to Preston, Shrewsbury being deemed secure from the strength of its _own_ garrison. In 1745, also, the earl of Powis raised a regiment here, for the service of the state, into which many gentlemen of the town and neighbourhood entered as volunteers. During the war with the French republic two regiments were raised in Shrewsbury, one by colonel Cuyler, (the present 86th) and the other by colonel, now general Williams, and the inhabitants contributed very liberally towards the crusade against French revolutionary principles.
The maturer efforts of Shrewsbury have not been unworthy the zeal of its youth. When the tocsin of invasion was sounded through the vast dominions of France, and the existence of Britain as an independent nation, was threatened with extinction, the inhabitants of Shrewsbury stepped forward with a noble enthusiasm, in defence of their lives, their liberty and, laws:
Types of a race, who shall th’ invader scorn
As rocks resist the billows round their shore:
Types of a race who shall to time unborn
Their country leave unconquer’d as of yore.
A regiment of foot, called the Shrewsbury Volunteers, was formed. It consisted of seven companies of eighty men each, chiefly tradesmen, clothed at an expence of about £3,000, raised by voluntary contribution in the town. Besides this corps, which was commanded by Sir Charles Oakley, Bart., two companies were raised in the town by B. Benyon, and J. Sutton, esq.’s which were attached to that fine regiment the Shropshire Volunteers, under the command of colonel Kynaston Powell, M.P.; and three troops of Cavalry commanded by the honourable William Hill. And had an allwise Providence permitted the invader to set his unhallowed foot on the shores of Britain, there is no doubt but each individual was determined that the spot on which he contended in defence of the noble institutions of his country should have been the throne of his triumph or his grave.
The promptitude with which these associations and others of the same nature throughout the empire, united in the hour of public danger—the fatigues they underwent in acquiring a knowledge of the use of arms—the readiness evinced in the abandonment of their private concerns for the public safety—and the inconveniences and expenses which they incurred on the occasion, surely demanded some other reward than to have their ardour damped by the change in the system of national defence; for to whom in the hour of battle could the protection of their homes and their families, the independence of their country, the sepulchres of their fathers, and the sanctuary of their God, be better entrusted than to those whose courage was animated and strengthened by the most endearing recollections? But such sacrifices, even when the necessity of them was superseded, will not be forgotten—the remembrance of them will live in the minds of their grateful and admiring countrymen, and their services will form a splendid, monument on the page of history.
Nor have the inhabitants been insensible to the miseries attendant on those whose relatives have fallen sacrifices to the heroism and devotion which they displayed during the sanguinary battles of the last twenty years, having very largely contributed to alleviate the wants of their widows and orphans.
The affection and loyalty of the inhabitants of Shrewsbury to their venerable Sovereign was most conspicuously displayed on the National Jubilee, the 25th of October, 1809, the fiftieth anniversary of his Majesty’s accession to the crown. On this occasion, liberal subscriptions were entered into for the purpose of discharging the debts of persons in the court of conscience—for relieving the distresses of the sick poor, &c. &c. Joy beamed in every countenance, and gratitude filled every heart. A congratulatory address had been previously voted unanimously, in a general meeting of the inhabitants convened by the mayor.—We give the following abridged account of the celebration of the day from the SHREWSBURY CHRONICLE of October 27:—
Never, perhaps, has any national occurrence taken place which can
afford in retrospect so rich and amiable a gratification as that of
Wednesday last. If we contemplate that a general amnesty was
proclaimed to all delinquents in our army—that a national banquet was
ordered for the brave fellows in our navy—that the prisons in many
places were thrown open to the debtors—that there was no such thing,
perhaps in the land, as an hungry honest man—and, lastly, that our
places of worship were thronged by a people, who, like sons and
daughters, had assembled to give thanks to the Almighty for the
preservation of the life of their political parent: scarcely could
the imagination conceive a happier variety of circumstances from
which the mind may derive such sublime enjoyment. How conspicuous on
this event has been the attribute of Englishmen—GENEROSITY! And let
us also reflect, how much good had been omitted to be done, and how
much evil had been produced, if the sums voluntarily subscribed by
the people of this kingdom had been squandered in acts of sensuality,
and riotous illuminations. Instead of which, the hungry have been
filled, the moneyless relieved, and the captive set free.
In deeds of this description, the inhabitants of THIS TOWN have never
been deficient. The subscriptions amount to between £400 and £500,
and the committee has been indefatigable in proposing, and in
executing, the best plans in the distribution of it.
The mode of distribution, fixed upon at a Meeting of the Subscribers,
is as follows:—A sum not exceeding 50 Guineas to be applied in the
discharge of persons now in the court of conscience, under the
direction of a committee.—The like sum to be applied by the same
committee in discharging or compounding debts of other poor persons
within the town.—A like sum to be applied in the relief of poor sick
persons within the town, under the direction of a committee.—The
distribution of these sums to take place on or before the 25th of
December next.—The Directors of the House of Industry to be
recommended to make what addition they shall think proper, on the
25th instant, to the ordinary allowance of the poor and aged people
under their care.—Five Guineas to be given to the ringers; and 7_s._
to each housekeeper in St. Chad’s, St. Mary’s, and St. Giles’s
almshouses.—The remainder given on Tuesday evening (the 24th) to
proper persons—one half to St. Chad’s parish, and the remaining half
in the other four parishes.—Each subscriber to have a right to
recommend two persons for each guinea subscribed.
The dawning of Wednesday morning was saluted by ringing of bells;
while, from the barges on the Severn, decorated with laurels and
flags, which were suspended from their yard-arms and top-masts, the
bellowing of cannon was incessantly heard. Shops were closed, and
business seemed suspended. At eleven, the mayor and corporation,
preceded by their officers, and the wardens and many members of every
company of tradesmen, accompanied by their flags and streamers,
walked in procession to the church of St. Chad, the band playing God
save the King. The sermon was preached by the Rev. Mr. Nunn, from
the 11th Nehemiah, 3d verse, “Let the king live for ever;” and the
service concluded by singing “God save the King.” Sermons were also
delivered to crowded congregations at every place of worship in the
town. The doors of many of the principal in habitants were
ornamented with laurel; at night, fire-works were exhibited from the
gardens of Benyon, Esq. and Dr. Evans, and bonfires distinctly
descried on the remote eminences of the Wrekin, Haughmond Hill,
Grinshill, &c.
We shall conclude by repeating the sentiment, that the future
historian, dwelling upon the character of HIS MAJESTY, will, by this
day, be released from the trouble of much prolixity. The character
of George the Third has been drawn by his people in this spontaneous
expression of their sentiments. After a reign of half a century,
they rose with one accordant voice, and desired with prayer and
praise, with thanks and rejoicings, with deeds of benevolence and
charity to all their fellow subjects, to express their gratitude to
GOD for having given them so good a King, and for having spared his
life so long.
One remark will surely occur to every person who reads this and other
accounts of the universal spirit that has pervaded the bosoms of
Englishmen on this occasion:—If the strength of a state center in the
virtue of its people; the virtue of a people in affection for their
sovereign, and a reciprocal love, link both together, then is England
powerful indeed! ‘What shall subdue this spirit?’
Description of the Town.
PUBLIC BUILDINGS.
IN entering on our general description of the town, its public buildings naturally claim the first share of attention. They will be found classed under the heads of Public, Religious, and Charitable erections, and noticed under that order: and whether we consider them in the accommodation which they present for the transaction of the business respectively carried on in them, for the antiquity of some, or for the elegance of their erection, they will no doubt prove sources of recreation to, and well worthy the inspection of, the stranger.
The Castle
Is supposed to have been founded by Roger de Montgomery, about the year 1068. It continued in his family until the reign of Henry I, when by the rebellion of earl Robert de Belesme it was forfeited to the king, who committed the care of it to a constable, usually the sheriff, it being then extremely useful for the defence of the adjacent country.
This ancient fortress is built of red stone, on the N.E. part of the isthmus on which the town stands, and being erected on a commanding eminence, was admirably calculated to “roll back the tide of war” and to defend Shrewsbury from the frequent incursions of the neighbouring Welsh, who were continually devastating the surrounding country. When the incorporation of the principality with the English dominions took place, it ceased to enjoy the importance which its situation on the Welsh border had previously given to it; and after experiencing a variety of changes in its masters, it was granted by Charles II. to lord Newport, afterwards earl of Bradford; since which period it became the property of the late venerable sir William Pulteney, bart. who greatly repaired and rendered it a comfortable residence. Sir William at his death bequeathed it to the right honourable the earl of Darlington, its present possessor.
The history of the Town and the Castle are so intimately connected, that we shall content ourselves with giving a brief description of its ancient and present appearance. According to Leland, it was fast hastening to decay in the reign of Henry VIII. and indeed it has suffered so much from the ravages of time, rather than from those of war, that it is doubtful what idea to form of its original size; but it is at least probable, when its importance as a border fortress is considered, that it occupied a much larger space than that marked out by its existing walls.
The only buildings remaining are the keep, the walls of the inner court, and the great arch of the interior gate; they are built of red stone, and the former has been converted into a commodious and pleasant dwelling, and is at present occupied by J. C. Pelham, esq. It consists of two round towers of equal diameter, embattled and pierced, connected by a square building about 100 feet in length and about the same in height, in which are many spacious and excellent rooms. At the entrance, which opens on a newly-erected grand staircase, is a statue of Roger de Montgomery. The arch of the gateway is about 18 feet high, semicircular, and with plain round facings. Its walls appear to have sustained a tower, from whence hung the portcullis. The area of the court has latterly been cleared of its buildings, and is now formed into a beautiful garden. On the circular grass-plot in front of the castle, the newly-elected knights of the shire are girt with their swords by the sheriff, which, as it is an ancient custom, is still permitted, although the castle and its grounds are private property.
In the south corner of this court is a lofty mount, on which is erected a watch tower, now converted into a pleasant summer room, from which is commanded a grand and diversified prospect of uncommon richness and beauty. The mount, rising abruptly from the margin of the Severn, crowned with its venerable tower, its bold and abrupt bank being richly clothed with the foliage of various species of trees and skirled by the majestic stream which rolls at its base, has also, when viewed from a distance, a beautiful and picturesque appearance. Shrewsbury, though the most important station on the Welsh border, and though frequently thrown into possession of its enemies, never sustained more than two sieges. Its natural and artificial strength might probably deter an adverse army from investing it in a regular way, for it was protected not only by its castle, but by
Walls,
fenced with towers which completely surrounded it.
The first stone rampart extended only across the isthmus to the river on each side, and was raised by Robert de Belesme. In the reign of Henry III. the inhabitants of this place having suffered greatly during the rebellion of the earl of Pembroke, were exhorted to secure themselves by building a wall entirely round the town, which, by the aid of the royal bounty, was accomplished in 32 years. An additional rampart, by order of Oliver Cromwell, was constructed, as it is said, from the materials of Shrawardine castle, and extended from the wall of earl Robert at the river’s brink to the Welsh bridge: though now ruinous it forms a tolerable connecting path between the northern and western ends of the town.—Of the old ramparts, those on the northern and eastern sides of the town have long since disappeared; their foundations, which are easy to be traced, form the groundwork of modern houses. On the south, a considerable portion remains, and part of it is kept in repair as a public walk; but it retains little of its original appearance, having been considerably lowered, and entirely stripped of its battlements. The towers have been all taken down except one, which stands on this wall, between the bottom of Swan Hill and Belmont. It is square and embattled, and has two stories, the entrance of the higher being from the top of the wall, through a small pointed arch, which does not appear of older date than the time of Henry IV. The town, according to Leland, who beheld its fortifications entire, was more than a mile in compass; which extent may probably be a third more in modern computation. There were formerly three principal
Gates
to Shrewsbury; one near the Castle called the North Gate, and one on each of the bridges; that on the east called the Abbey Gate, and that on the west the Welsh Gate. A part of the southern tower of the north gate is the only remain of these once formidable fortifications.
The Town Hall
Is situated in High Street, and was erected in 1785 from a design by Mr. Haycock of this town, at an expense of £11,000, which was raised by a county rate.
It is an elegant structure of free stone, presenting a handsome front to the street. On the front of the pediment, which is supported by four lofty columns of the Ionic order, is a fine figure of Justice in _bas relief_, seated on a rock, beneath which, over the centre door, are the arms of the town handsomely ornamented with appropriate emblems.
The ground floor consists of a vestibule and two courts, in which the assizes for the county are held. Under the one appropriated to the crown bar, is a cell, for the reception of prisoners. A beautiful spiral stone staircase leads to the higher story, where is a large room intended for county meetings, one for the use of the grand jury of the county, with record and other offices for the use of the county and town.
The grand jury room is decorated with portraits of George I. given by Mr. Edward Elisha; of George II. given by Thomas Wingfield, esq.; of George III. and queen Charlotte, given by sir Thomas Jones, bart.; and one of the gallant and celebrated admiral Benbow, given by his sister, Mrs. Elizabeth Hind.
Immediately adjoining is
The Market House.
From an inscription over the northern arch it appears that
“The XVth day of June was this building begun, William Jones and
Thomas Charlton, Gent. then Bailiffs, and was erected and covered in
their time 1595.”
It is built entirely of free stone, and is one of the largest of similar erections in the kingdom. In the centre of the principal front, which faces the west, is a spacious portal, over which are the arms of queen Elizabeth in high relief. Attached to the imposts of the great arch are pillars, supporting each the figure of a lion bearing a shield on its breast. Above are two stories, with large square mullioned windows. On each side this portal is an open arcade, consisting of three spacious round arches, which form the main building, over which is a range of square windows with mullions, and a very rich parapet, consisting of a series of embrazures carved like the Ionic volute, between which at alternate distances, are a kind of grotesque pinnacles in the same style. At the north and south ends are large open arches, the whole edifice being finished above by sharp pointed gables.
The ground floor of this building is appropriated to the corn market, and is 105 feet long by 24 feet wide. A room over of similar size was formerly rented by the company of drapers, and used by them for a flannel market on Thursdays; but the sale of that staple article of Welsh manufacture having been removed to Welsh Pool, it has been rented of late as an ironmonger’s warehouse. Over the northern arch is placed the statue of Richard duke of York, removed hence from the old bridge in 1791, as appears by the inscription at his right hand: on his left are the arms of the town finely sculptured in relief.
Its spacious area is a useful promenade for the inhabitants in bad weather, and its architecture is a fine specimen of the fantastic style of the 16th century.
Lord Hill’s Column.
The splendid achievements of the British army in Spain and Portugal from 1808 to 1814, together with the disastrous retreat of Napoleon from his Russian campaign, and the subsequent occupation of France by the allied troops, having produced a general peace, a proposition appeared in the Shrewsbury Chronicle of December the 17th, 1813, by the Proprietor of that paper, to erect some suitable memorial of the prominent part lord Hill had acted throughout the whole of those eventful campaigns.—At a meeting in the News Room on the following day, nearly £400 was subscribed to carry this intention into effect. Subsequently, however, it was determined to extend the original plan, a meeting of the inhabitants of the town was called, and it was resolved to solicit subscriptions generally from all who participated in the triumphs of their country, or who felt any respect for the brilliant and varied services of the gallant general.
After a variety of plans had been proposed it was at length determined to erect the column now under notice. The first stone was laid on the 27th of December, 1814, agreeably to masonic rule, by Richard Phillips, esq. master of the Salopian Lodge, and at that time mayor of Shrewsbury. The foundation stone, which weighed four tons and a half, is of the following dimensions, viz: length 11 feet 3 inches, breadth 3 feet, and 2 feet thick. In a cavity underneath, a bottle was deposited, containing gold and silver coins of George III. accompanied with the SHREWSBURY CHRONICLE of the preceding Friday. Over the cavity was a plate bearing the following
_INSCRIPTION_
Of this Column, intended to be erected to commemorate the brilliant
achievements of Lieutenant-General ROWLAND LORD HILL, Knight of the
Bath, and Knight of the Tower and Sword.
The first Stone was laid by RICHARD PHILLIPS, Esquire, Mayor of
Shrewsbury, and Matter of the Salopian Lodge of free and accepted
Masons, assisted by the Chaplain, Wardens, the Brethren of this and
Deputies from other Lodges, upon the 27th Day of December, in the
year of our Lord, 1814, and in the year of Masonry—5814, being the
_Festival of St. John_. The funds for this beautiful Memorial, in
honour of splendid talent and private worth, were furnished by a
public Subscription, raised chiefly by the inhabitants of the town
and county of Salop.
The column is situated on a rising ground, at the entrance of this town from the London and Bath roads. From its insulated and lofty situation, it is seen from many parts of the town, and is conspicuous at a considerable distance in the country.
_FT._ _IN._ The height of the pedestal is 13 0 shaft and capital 91 6 pedestal supporting the statue 11 6 statue 16 0 The whole height 132 6
Solidity and durability have been particularly attended to in its construction, the stones with which it has been built, being as large as could conveniently be raised, from an excellent quarry at Grinshill, in the neighbourhood of Shrewsbury.
The pedestal is square, standing upon two steps, having a large pier or buttress at each angle, upon which are placed Lions couchant. The piers are formed of three stones in each, the top one of each on which the lions are placed, being 10 feet 6 inches long, 4 feet 3 inches wide, and 3 feet 3 inches deep, and their weight 10 tons. The lower diameter of the column is 15 feet, and the masonry 2 feet 3 inches in thickness; the top diameter 10 feet 6 inches, by 1 foot 6 inches in thickness. Each course of stones is 3 feet high, six stones form the course. There are 326 stones in the whole structure, and the top stone immediately under the statue, weighs two and a half tons. There are 17,993 cubic feet in the whole, and its weight is 1120 tons. There is a beautiful staircase up the shaft, the view of the surrounding country from the top, being most extensive. The expense was about £5,500.
The proportion of this column is half a diameter higher than those in the portico of the celebrated Parthenon at Athens, and is THE LARGEST GREEK DORIC COLUMN IN THE WORLD. The figure is designed and executed by Messrs. Coade and Sealy, of London, in their artificial stone, which is so well calculated to resist the action of the weather. The lions are worked in Grinshill stone, by Mr. Carline of this place. The contractors were the late Mr. Simpson, and Mr. Lawrence: owing to the death of the former the contract devolved upon his successor Mr. Straphen. The original design is by Mr. Edward Haycock, architect, of this town, with some alterations in the pedestal by Mr. Harrison, of Chester.
The Town & County Goal.
This building, a pleasant and admirably constructed brick edifice, was finished in 1793, at the expense of about £30,000, on a plan furnished by Mr. Haycock, architect, of this town. It was erected in consequence of the light diffused on the subject of prisons by the later philanthropic Mr. Howard, the old gaol being (says Mr. Howard) “both wretched in its accommodations, and a complete school of vice.”
The prison is situate on the banks of the river, on a dry gravelly soil on the south-east side of the town, in the immediate vicinity of the castle, and is spacious, airy, well supplied with water, and as comfortable as these abodes of human misfortune and depravity possibly can be.
The entrance is through a free stone gateway, having a lodge on each side, over the arch of which is a fine bust of Howard, presented by the late Rowland Hunt, and Thomas Knight, esquires, two county magistrates. There are reception cells in the lodges for the examination of the persons by the surgeon previous to their being lodged in the different apartments; during their continuance in the prison, criminals wear a woollen jacket, waistcoat and cap, composed of blue and yellow stripes before conviction, after which the dress is changed for one of brown and yellow. All executions take place on the flat roof of the northern lodge, when all the criminals are brought into the area before the governor’s house to witness the awful scene. This house, in which is an apartment for the magistrates, faces the entrance gate, in the centre of the west front of the prison. The chapel, which is a neat octagonal structure, well calculated for the important purposes of its erection, stands in the centre of the whole building, and is so arranged that every class of prisoners is separated and hid from each other, though all may see the officiating clergyman. The prison, the boundary wall of which encloses two acres of ground, and is 16 feet high, is divided into four principal courts, besides smaller ones, and not only are the sexes separated, but each description of prisoners are subdivided, into classes, which have each their respective courts and day rooms. The debtor’s rooms are airy and comfortable, commanding many pleasing views of the adjacent country. At the eastern extremity is the infirmary, near which the under keeper resides, who has constantly for sale various articles manufactured by the prisoners, the profits of which are applied for their benefit.
Closely allied to the superior construction of the prison are the excellent and judicious regulations for its internal management, which, whilst they tend to ameliorate the condition of the unhappy sufferers, are calculated to reclaim their vicious habits; and should they return to the bosom of society, stimulate them to atone for their depredations on their fellow-creatures, by their honest and exemplary deportment in future. Prayers are read every Thursday, and a sermon preached every Sunday by the chaplain, and the justices appointed at the quarter sessions visit the different apartments of the prison when they please, and have the power of making any alteration in the mode of treating the criminals which to them may appear judicious.
Convinced that the design of punishment is to prevent the commission of crimes, and to repair the injury that has thereby been done to society or the individual, and that it is the duty of every good government to _reform_ rather than _exterminate_ offenders, the exertions of the late Rowland Hunt, esq. were directed to the formation of the following excellent plan, which was instituted in 1797.
_First_—To enable debtors to gain a livelihood while in confinement;
to reward their industry and good behaviour while there; and to
furnish them with some implements or materials on quitting prison,
the better to support themselves and their families on their return
to society.
_Secondly_—To encourage industry, penitence, and orderly behaviour in
criminal prisoners; and to furnish with clothes and implements those
who on quitting prison receive a certificate of good behaviour.
_Thirdly_—To provide all those who are dismissed, with a small sum
for immediate maintenance, to prevent the great temptation of
committing a crime for that purpose.
This praiseworthy charity, the subscriptions to which from the county at large amount to about £80 yearly; also distributes bibles and prayer books to the wretched objects of its bounty, and thus endeavours to impress on the minds of these outcasts of society, the sacred lessons of divine wisdom. The benevolent stranger will perceive in the large outer gate of the prison, two small apertures, and on the other side two boxes are affixed, into one of which he may drop his mite, “to prisoners in a state of reformation,” and in the other “to debtors in a state of industry.”
The Military Depot,
Is a very handsome brick edifice, erected by government in the year 1806, from a design by Mr. Wyatt, at an expense of about £10,000. It stands in a piece of ground near St. Giles’s Church, at the east end of the Abbeyforegate.
The principal building is 135 feet by 39, in two stories, and is capable of containing 25,000 stand of arms. Within the enclosure are two magazines for ammunition, and a small neat house at each angle for the storekeeper, armourer, and subalterns’ guard.—It was intended for the reception of the arms of the volunteer corps of Shropshire and the adjoining counties, but until lately very few arms of any description have been deposited here—in fact it has been a complete sinecure. Mr. Linton is the present governor.
The English, or East Bridge,
Called also the Stone Bridge, which connects the suburb of Abbey-foregate with the town, was finished in 1774, from a plan produced by Mr. Gwyn, at an expense of £16,000 raised by public subscription. This bridge, which is 400 feet in length, is built of Grinshill free stone, on seven semicircular arches, and crowned with a fine balustrade. The central arch is 60 feet in width, and 40 in height from the bed of the river, the two arches at the extremities being 35 feet wide and 20 high. The breadth between the balustrades is 20 feet.—On the northern front is the head of Sabrina in bas relief and the date of its erection. Its ornaments are tasteful, and it may justly be classed among the most elegant modern erections in the empire. Some persons, probably, may conceive that the elevation of the centre is too great, but when they are informed that in the memorable flood of 1795, even the great arch was not more than capacious enough to admit the torrent, they will no doubt be inclined to praise rather than censure the artist, who was actuated by a desire to blend the useful with the ornamental.
The Welsh Bridge,
Built in the opposite direction to the before named structure, and which received its name as being the grand route into Wales, was finished in 1795, from a design by Messrs. Tilly and Carline of this place. It consists of five spacious arches with balustrades above, and is 266 feet in length, with a driving road 20 feet wide, and paved on each side, for the convenience of foot passengers, 5 feet. It is a plain though neat erection, and has a remarkably solid and substantial appearance.
Public Subscription Library,
Situated on St. John’s Hill, is a plain brick edifice, formerly a private house, and has been lately purchased by the Committee of the above institution, and fitted up for the purpose of lodging the books belonging to the Society. The number of subscribers is about 140, who pay annually £1. 11s. 6d. and 2 guineas entrance; but their shares are transferable. The managers of the society are a president, a treasurer, a committee of twelve, who sit gratuitously, and a librarian at a stipend. The following are some of the principal laws and regulations:—The library is open for the free use of subscribers five hours every day at the rooms, with the right of having several books at one time at their own houses, a certain number of days. Forfeits are established and rigorously enforced for detaining and damaging of books.—The method of admitting books is, for any member to write down the title, size and price at the library, with his signature, one clear week before the monthly meeting, at which period it will be ordered, if the majority of the subscribers present are agreeable.
The society which has been instituted about forty years, now possesses 5000 volumes—a valuable mass of general literature in every department. Neither divinity nor law has been permitted to _load_ the shelves; and in the matter of that great stumbling block of mixed associations, _politics_, a due regard to that invaluable maxim “audi alteram partem,” has never been forgot or violated, and diversity of opinion has only promoted the successful progress of the establishment.
Subscription Coffee Room
Is attached to the county-hall, and is supplied with several London and provincial papers.
Chronicle News-Room.
This is situate on St. John’s Hill, and forms part of the Library House. It is furnished not only with a very extensive variety of London and Provincial Newspapers and the Gazette, but also with Reviews, Magazine, Army and Navy Lists, and the best Pamphlets of the day, &c.
To each of these institutions strangers are admitted on being introduced by a subscriber.
Beside these institutions there are several private READING SOCIETIES in the town.
New Church of St. Chad.
This church, situated near that beautiful promenade the Quarry, is erected in a style highly ornamental, from a design by Mr. Stuart, an architect from London. The admirable execution of the masonry, and the beauty of the stone, have an extremely elegant appearance. The first stone was laid on the 2d of March, 1790, and the building was consecrated on the 28th of August, 1792. The body of the church is a rotunda, 100 feet in diameter, having a fine steeple at its south-east end. In the steeple is an octagonal belfry, containing a melodious peal of twelve bells, surmounted by a small dome, supported on eight Corinthian pillars.
[Picture: St. Chad’s church]
The principal entrance is through the large door under the steeple, to the lower division of which is attached a portico, elevated on a flight of steps, and supported by four Doric columns. The interior has a rich and noble appearance, especially since its recent painting, which in some measure has corrected that light and theatrical effect hitherto complained of. The gallery which encircles the whole of the church, except the chancel, is supported by a double circular range of short pillars with Ionic capitals. From its front rises a series of columns which support the roof, intended to imitate the Corinthian order. The chancel is separated from the church by two insulated Corinthian-columns, with highly enriched architraves. Beside the usual appendages of a chancel, the Creed, Commandments, and Lord’s Prayer—a fine painted window, executed by Eginton, and removed here from Lichfield cathedral, was erected in the large window, in 1807, at the expense of the parishioners.—The subject is the resurrection of our Saviour, from a design by West. In the gallery is a good organ.
Notwithstanding the objections which have been made to the architectural plan of this church, it is possessed of one advantage, which, it is presumed tends to obviate all of them, namely convenient accommodation for a congregation of 2000 persons, which should be the object principally kept in view in all similar erections. It was built at an expense of about £18,000: £15,000 of which remains as a debt, on the church at this period.
The patron of the living is the king—the present vicar, the Rev. Thomas Stedman, M.A. Organist Mr. John Wynne.
From the dome of this church there is a most beautiful panoramic view of the town, and a very extensive range of the fertile plain of Shropshire.
The Abbey of St. Peter & St. Paul.
The present church once formed part of a magnificent and richly endowed abbey, founded by Roger de Montgomery, soon after the Norman conquest. Here that powerful baron, in the decline of his life, retired, relinquishing his warlike habits for the severities of the Benedictine monks, and adopting the custom mentioned by Milton, of those
who, to be sure of Paradise,
Dying, put on the weeds of Dominic,
Or in Franciscan think to pass disguised.
Originally it was of very considerable extent, comprehending within its enclosure nearly nine acres, now used as gardens and pleasure grounds to the adjoining mansions, together with a spacious fish-pond.
This once celebrated structure, in common with others similar in their institution, suffered considerable dilapidations in the reign of Henry the eighth. In consequence of this and the mouldering waste of time, a small portion only remains, and what does exist has been cruelly mutilated in its repairs; its nave, western tower and northern porch, being the only fragments left to tell the history of its pristine magnificence and grandeur. The tower is a finely proportioned structure; its portal has a round Norman arch deeply recessed, and another of a pointed form, inserted within it at some subsequent period. Above this is one of the noblest windows in the kingdom, its height being 46 feet by 22 feet wide. It is divided by its mulliens into seven “days”, or compartments below, of which there are two tiers, and its arched head is sharp pointed, and filled with a profusion of the most delicate tracery. On each side is a mouldering nich, in one of which was a statue of St. Peter, and in the other St. Paul. Between the double bell windows in front, is the figure of an armed knight within a nich, supposed from its surrounding decorations and ornaments, to represent that celebrated warrior, Edward III. The tower contains eight bells. Within the arch which once led to the south wing of the transept, is an ancient figure clad in mail, supposed by some, to be intended to perpetuate the memory of earl Roger, the munificent patron of the abbey, and to this effect an inscription was placed within the tomb, by the heralds at their visitation of this county, in 1633. Others suppose it to belong to some other warrior of subsequent times, monuments of this description not being known at such an early period.
The ravages which this venerable pile has suffered are, perhaps, more strikingly visible in its interior than its exterior; but it still presents a solemn and majestic appearance, and whilst it proudly reminds us of its ancient grandeur, awfully forewarns us of “another and a better world.”—The altar-piece is in the style of the last century, with paintings of Moses and Aaron, and finishes the east end.
There are several monuments and inscriptions in memory of the Prynces, Baldwins, Reckes, and many other ancient and respectable Salopian families. The armorial bearings in the great west window, were restored A.D. 1815, from an ancient drawing in the Herald’s Office. The east window is also adorned with painted glass. In the center compartment, under gothic canopies, are large figures of St. Peter and St. Paul, with their appropriate symbols; above are the arms of England, the see of Lichfield, the Founder of the Abbey, and of Lord Berwick, the munificent donor of the window; on each side are escutcheons of the vicars from the year 1500. The bones of St. Winyfred were deposited in this abbey with great splendour, in the reign of Stephen.
The organ and the handsome gothic screen on which it stands, were erected in 1806. It is a very fine instrument, made by Mr. Gray, of London, and cost 365 guineas. On the screen are the arms of the principal benefactors.
In the parish chest are two small oval seals exactly similar in their dimensions, impresses and legends. Two clothed arms issue from the opposite sides of the area, one bearing a crosier, the other a naked sword; in the centre, a wand or staff of office. Inscription, “Sigillum commune de Fforyate Monachor”—the common seal of Monks Foregate. Some of our most skilful antiquaries are unable to give a sufficient reason why Monks Foregate came to have a common seal. Some of them have supposed that the parish might have obtained a charter of incorporation, while others think that it might have been assumed without authority. Neither of the two seals appear much older than the 15th century.
The patron of the living is Lord Berwick—the Rev. H. Burton, vicar, and Mr. John Amott, organist.
But the remain of this abbey which has most excited the attention of antiquaries, is a beautiful little structure on the south side of the gardens. Its plan is octagon, 6 feet in diameter. Some broken steps which did not belong to it originally, lead through a narrow flat arched door on the east, to the inside. The south part stands on a fragment of the ruins. The corresponding side projects considerably from the wall, resting upon a single corbel, terminating in a head. From this point it gradually swells, bound with a multitude of delicate ribbed mouldings, until it forms the basement under the floor. An obtuse dome of stone is suspended over the whole, at about eight feet from the base, supported on six narrow pointed arches, rising from pillars similar to the mullions of the windows. One of the remaining sides of the octagon is a solid blank wall, and in the other is a door. The roof within is vaulted on eight ribs, which spring from the wall immediately under the cavity of the dome. At their crossing in the centre is a boss, bearing a representation of the crucifixion, considerably relieved. The spaces between the divisions of the three northern arches, four feet above the bottom, are filled up with stone pannels, over which they are entirely open, a circumstance which, by permitting the light, is productive of a beautiful effect. On the centre pannel are two small figures in elegant tabernacles; in one of these is the figure of an angel, in the other, that of a woman, whom he is addressing; the whole seems intended to represent the annunciation. The right hand pannel is embellished with images of St. Peter and St. Paul bearing their respective symbols, with similar enrichments, and that on the left has two figures in monastic habits, one of them a female, probably St. Winyfred, the other a monk; the height of every figure is eighteen inches. The arches on the southern side are without ornaments, and are now quite open two feet from the floor.
In forming a garden on the site of the Abbey Cloisters, a great variety of fragments were met with, consisting of painted tiles with various devices, rich gothic tracery, window mullions, &c. and a very beautiful part of the pavement of the refectory; this, from its situation, being about 23 feet from the line of the outer refectory wall, and being part of the border of a pavement, satisfactorily proves the use to which this beautiful Gothic pulpit was applied, it being a custom in Benedictine monasteries, for one monk to read to the others during their meals in the refectory. In a parallel line, and at 12 feet distance from the wall of the dormitory, a considerable number of small Norman capitals and bases were found, strongly bedded in cement, and forming a foundation to some superstructure. As the west side of the cloisters must have occupied this situation, it may be presumed that there were cloisters of more ancient architecture, than these destroyed at the Reformation, to which the fragments found in the garden belonged.
[Picture: The pulpit]
St. Marys Church.
This venerable church is situated on a parallel with Castle-street, at the north-east part of the town, in a small area; and with the exception of St. Giles’, is the only structure of this place, which has been handed down to the present time in an entire state. It is built in the form of a cross, consisting of a nave side isles, transept, choir and its chapels, with a west steeple. The exterior presents various styles of ancient architecture. The basement of the tower is of red stone, and contains the small round-headed windows of the early Norman era. From the bell story the pointed style takes place, and is of the grey free stone of Grinshill quarry, as is also the greatest part of the fabric. The tower is large, but low. The upper story has on every side handsome double windows. From the tower rises a lofty and beautiful spire. The windows of the lower parts bear the remains of rich spiring canopies and pinnacles. The height of the tower is 76 feet, of the spire 140.
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The Stranger in ShrewsburyChapter II: Part 2
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