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Chapter IV: Part 4

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The reservoir for this water is in a large cistern near the butter market, from whence it is conveyed to almost all the inhabitants by means of lead pipes, for which they pay in proportion to the quantity of water. The water is forced up to this reservoir by means of a large wheel placed at the English or East Bridge, but in consequence of the frequent fluctuations of the Severn, it is probable that six months out of the twelve, the town is destitute of this supply, and whatever quantity may be wanted for culinary and other purposes is carried from the river. It is much to be wished, that the present waterworks were removed, not only on account of the deformity which they give to the noble appearance of the bridge; but the water which is sent to the reservoir after running nearly round the town and receiving all its filth, would by the removal of the works to Cotton Hill, and the erection of a steam engine, be distributed to the inhabitants in a more regular manner, and in a much purer state.

Baths.

There are two cold baths, one in Kingsland and the other in the suburb of Abbey Foregate, but neither of them can be recommended as possessing suitable accommodations, especially when compared with those of other places.

The Quarry.

This beautiful walk is on the western side of the town near the church of St. Chad; it occupies a rich meadow of about twenty acres gradually sloping to the river, and is supposed to have obtained its name from a small quarry of soft red sand-stone, which was formerly procured here, and with which some of the ancient buildings were no doubt erected. The lower walk which skirts the river, is 540 yards in length, shaded with lime trees, planted by Henry Jenks, Esq. in the year of his mayoralty, 1719. Three walks lead from the town to that on the bank of the Severn, and two others formerly crossed the entrance.

Few promenades in the kingdom can vie with the Quarry, particularly in the spring of the year, when it displays all its pride of beauty. Its spacious fields carpeted with grass, thickly studded with the golden hue of the butter cup, and the silvery tinge of the modest daisy—its noble trees clothed with leafy verdure of various hues, and protecting the pedestrian from the piercing rays of the sun—the Severn rolling its broad and majestic stream along—whilst the feathered songsters carol their notes to the God of nature, altogether present a lovely picture of rural happiness. Nor is the Quarry at “the fall of the leaf” when nature unburdens herself of her lovely mantle, unworthy the contemplation of the reflecting mind.

The fading foliage of th’ embrowning grove,
(Which oft has listened to the voice of love,)
In mournful junction with the shortning day,
Reminds us of the circling year’s decay:
While the fleet, whistling winds, dismantling, tear
Each tree’s green honours to the chilling air,
Thence to descend, and in man’s footsteps lie
A just memento of mortality.

In the 16th century, it appears that Shrewsbury was the scene of theatrical representations. Julian the apostate, was performed here in 1565, and two years afterwards, the Passion of Christ, to see which queen Elizabeth is said to have come as far as Coventry, but on learning that its representation was over, returned to London. The particular spot which formed the rural theatre, was at the top of the rope walk in the Quarry. The ground which forms a gentle acclivity, was cut into the form of an amphitheatre, the seats of which may still be traced in the bank.

Beside this, which is the chief walk, the town and neighbourhood furnish such a variety of picturesque and pleasing promenades as are equalled perhaps by few in the kingdom.

MANUFACTORIES.

ALTHOUGH Shrewsbury is not distinguished by its spirit of commercial enterprise, its contiguity to the Principality, the facilities which it possesses for the importation and exportation of goods, by means of its noble river and canals, and its situation as the capital of an extensive and populous county, combine to give to it many advantages over a variety of places equally insular. Its fabrication of threads, linen cloths, &c. &c. stand unrivalled; whilst the more common articles of domestic life are executed in a stile of neatness, certainly equal, if not superior, to those of any other place of similar size. The following are the principal, which we can do little more than enumerate.

Messrs. BENYONS’ MANUFACTORY is built on the north bank of the Severn, near the prison. The articles manufactured here consist of linen yarns, cloths, canvas, and threads. The building was erected in 1804. The process of making the various articles, is carried on by upwards of 400 hands, and the whole machinery, which is of wonderful construction, is worked by the solemn and stupendous action of a steam engine of 55 horse power, which keeps in continual motion upwards of 3000 spindles.

A short distance from the former stands the FACTORY of Messrs. MARSHALL and Co. who manufacture similar articles, the whole of whose machinery is also worked by the powerful agency of steam.

Of a like description is that also of Mr. BAGE, in Coleham. The other establishments are HAZLEDINE’s, and GITTINS and CARTWRIGHT’s IRON FOUNDRIES, the BREWERY of JOHN HEATHCOTE and Co.—the FLANNEL FACTORIES of Mr. BAKER and Mr. RAMSBOTHAM—and Mr. HILL’s SPIRIT DISTILLERY.

Nor will it be improper under this head, to mention some others, which, although not strictly speaking, manufactures, do honour to the town, and are worthy the early attention of strangers. Among the first of these, may be named BROCAS’s CHINA and GLASS REPOSITORY, in the Castle-street. The splendid collection here exhibited of antique and foreign china, together with the no less beautiful and admired specimens of the same article, from the first manufactories of this kingdom, and the rich and superb display of glass in an endless variety of patterns, as well for use as ornament, cannot fail to prove a rich treat to the stranger.

BETTON and EVANS’s STAINED GLASS MANUFACTORY, where great improvements have been made in that beautiful art. The perfection at which they have arrived, is truly astonishing, and they have the merit of approaching nearest (and in some colours even surpassing) the brilliant tints of the ancients. That this eulogium is not undeserved, may be ascertained by viewing the splendid windows executed by them for Lichfield cathedral, as well as the specimens which may be inspected at their warehouse on Wyle Cop.

The MARBLE ROOMS of Mr. CARLINE, sculptor, modeller, and marble mason, Abbey Foregate; where a variety of marble chimney-pieces are exhibited, in the Egyptian, Grecian, Gothic, and modern tastes, and in various species of the most beautiful foreign and British marbles. Marble tables for halls, sideboards, &c. various figures in marble, bronze, artificial stone, to support dials and lamps; statues, busts, &c. of excellent execution.

[Picture: Decorative image of a vase with flowers]

MARKETS.

THE markets of Shrewsbury are plentifully supplied with the luxuries and conveniences of life. They are held on Wednesdays and Saturdays. The first is small; that on Saturday is, perhaps, not surpassed in the display of eatables, by the market of any town of a similar size in the kingdom. Butcher’s meat is sold at the single and double rows on Pride Hill, and at the Shambles in Fish-street. Butter, Eggs, and Poultry of every description at the Butter Market. The green market is held in the square before the town-hall, where there is generally a luxuriant supply of vegetables, and of extremely early production. Wheat and all sorts of grain are disposed of in the market-house. With milk the inhabitants are tolerably well supplied by persons of the town who keep cows expressly for the purpose; but “art, ever jealous of nature, and benevolently careful of the stomachs of the inhabitants, has, by the application of a certain useful element, wisely deprived it of its luxuriant richness.”

The Fish market is well supplied. Not only the Severn salmon, which is caught at their doors, but a very considerable quantity of different descriptions of the finny tribe from Wales, are regularly exposed for sale at tolerably moderate prices. For its excellent brawn, Shrewsbury has long been distinguished.

Fairs.

Fairs are held here on the second Tuesday and Wednesday in every month.

MISCELLANEOUS NOTICES AND REFERENCES.

Inns and Taverns.

THE LION INN, on Wyle Cop, is kept by Mr. Tompkins. For elegant accommodation and the greatest attention, it is not surpassed. The London, Holyhead, Newtown, and Ludlow mails run to this house; also coaches regularly from hence to London, Holyhead, Worcester, Hereford, Bath, Cheltenham, Birmingham, Chester, Liverpool, Manchester, and all parts of the kingdom.

THE TALBOT INN, in Shoplatch, is kept by Mr. Jobson. Extensive premises with requisite accommodations. Coaches run from this house similarly to those from the Lion.

THE RAVEN INN, in Castle-street. A spacious and convenient house, with excellent accommodation. As a house frequented by commercial gentlemen, it ranks first in the town.

THE RAVEN AND BELL INN, on the Wyle Cop, has extensive and good accommodations for travellers, and is well frequented.

THE CROWN INN, near the Butter Cross, is centrically situated, and travellers meet with civility and attention.

Besides these, there are numerous others, which cannot here be detailed, but in all of them of respectable name, the stranger will experience a civility and attention which in houses of this description are not in all places to be met with.

Public Offices.

THE POST OFFICE is kept in Dogpole. It opens at seven in the morning and closes at nine at night, and is shut during divine service on Sundays. To London the mail goes out daily at eleven o’clock (except Saturday.) To Holyhead and Ireland every evening at three o’clock. To Ludlow, Hereford, and South Wales every morning at eleven. To Chester, through Ellesmere and Wrexham every evening at three o’clock. To Pool, and all Merionethshire, (except Bala and Corwen) Aberystwith, every evening about half past three o’clock, and to Whitchurch, Wem, Hawkstone, Prees, and Malpas, every evening by horse post, soon after the arrival of the London mail. THE STAMP OFFICE is kept in the Corn Market, as is also the SALOP FIRE OFFICE. The COLLECTOR’S OFFICE for the receipt of the excise duties, is held in Barker Street. The CLERK OF THE PEACE’S OFFICE is at the Town Hall.

Bankers.

Messrs. Beck, Dodson, Eatons and Beck, draw on Masterman and Co.

Messrs. Burton, Lloyd, Lloyd, and Salt, draw on Stephenson, Remmington, and Co.

Messrs. Rocke, Eyton, Campbell, and Bayley, draw on Robarts, Curtis, and Co.

The banks are open every day from ten o’clock till four.

Newspapers.

Two weekly Newspapers are published here.

_Wednesday_,—The Salopian Journal, at the Office in the Corn Market.

_Friday_,—The Shrewsbury Chronicle, at the Office on St. John’s Hill.

Stage Coaches.

The number of coaches precludes our specifying each particularly, nor indeed would it be of much avail for any length of time, as they change so frequently. The following directions, however, give every necessary information to the stranger in the choice of his conveyance to any part of the kingdom.

_From the LION COACH OFFICE_.

_Mail Coaches_ to London, Holyhead, Hereford, Chester, Newtown, and all the intermediate places. _Stage Coaches_ to London, Holyhead, Manchester, Liverpool, Hereford, Bristol, Bath, Birmingham, Cheltenham, Aberystwith, and the towns and villages on the road, daily.

_The TALBOT INN_.

_Stage Coaches_ run from this house to the places named before.

_The BRITANNIA INN_.

_Stage Coaches_ to London, Birmingham, and Aberystwith.

Stage Waggons.

_Waggons_ to London, Wolverhampton, Machynlleth, Dolgelley, and Montgomeryshire, from _Crowley and Co._ Mardol.

_Waggons_ to Chester; Manchester, Ludlow, and Leominster, from _Maxon’s Warehouse_, Mardol.

_Waggons_ to Aberystwith, Llangollen, Bala, Wem Wharf, (from whence goods are conveyed by water to Liverpool, &c.) Holyhead, &c. from _Newton’s General Waggon and Barge Warehouse_, Mardol Quay.

Water Conveyance.

_Barges_ go frequently (two or three in a week) for Bridgnorth, Worcester, Gloucester, Chepstow, and Bristol, days uncertain, from the warehouses of Owners _Harwood_, _Bratton_ and _J. Jones_, on Mardol Quay, also from the _Union Wharf_, St. Mary’s Water Lane.

Hackney Chairmen.

_Hackney Chairs_, or as they are sometimes called _Sedans_, are to be had for conveyance within the town at a moderate rate.

Friendly and Benefit Societies

Of these there are a great number in Shrewsbury, which assemble agreeably to their rules at different public houses, and would be far too many for enumeration here. Suffice it to say that, the MASONIC SOCIETY, the most respectable of them, assembles monthly on Mondays, at the Crown Inn.

Inland Navigation.

The Severn has its source from a chalybeate spring on the eastern side of Plinlimmon, a mountain in Montgomeryshire, in North Wales, from whence rushing down with a swift current, and being joined by many smaller torrents, it presently appears considerable, and passing by Llanidloes and Newtown, becomes navigable at Pool Quay, where the Vyrniew joins it with a stream little inferior to its own; from thence proceeding gently forward to Shrewsbury, which it surrounds nearly in the form of an horseshoe, it flows on through a rich vale with many extensive windings, till it comes to Benthall Edge, by the way receiving into it the river Tern, which waters all the north of Shropshire. Here the Severn begins to be rapid, being pent up between two opposite hills, both very lofty and steep; and from thence to Bridgnorth and Bewdley, the channel is confined by high woody banks and rocky cliffs, which afford a variety of beautiful prospects. Afterwards it again glides pleasantly on through the fertile plains of Worcestershire, visiting in its way the city itself, and a little below is considerably augmented by the influx of the river Teme. This addition, however, is much inferior to that which it receives from its junction with the river Avon, at Tewkesbury. These two rivers thus united, pursue their course to Gloucester, and about fifty miles below that city are lost in the Bristol Channel.

This river, justly esteemed the second in Britain, is of great importance, being navigated by vessels of large burden, more than 160 miles from the sea, without the assistance of any lock. Upwards of 100,000 tons of coal are annually shipped from the collieries about Madeley and Broseley, for the cities and towns situate on its banks, and thence conveyed into the adjacent counties. Great quantities of grain, pig and bar iron, iron manufactures, Coalport china and earthenware, as well as wool, hops, cyder, and provisions, are likewise continually sent to Bristol and other places, from whence various kinds of goods are brought in return. In May, 1756, the number of Barges and Trows on the river Severn navigating from Shrewsbury downwards to Bristol amounted to 376, and since that time, by the addition of the inland canals from the Trent, the Mersey and the Thames, into the Stroud navigation, it may fairly be calculated that not less than double that number are now employed.

Shrewsbury Canal.

This canal commences on the north-east side of Shrewsbury, and winding with the Severn passes Uffington, where it runs parallel with the river Tern and passes Upton Forge, Withington, Roddington, where it crosses the river Roden, also the river Tern, at Long Mill; passes Long, Eyton, crosses Ketley Brook at Wrockwardine Wood, and there joins the Donnington Wood and the Shropshire Canals. The total length is 17½ miles; with 147 feet rise in the five miles between Long and Wombridge; the rest is level.—The principal use of this canal is the conveyance of coals for the consumption of Shrewsbury and the intermediate places, from the numerous coal works in the eastern part of Shropshire, which furnish that article of an excellent quality. The best are delivered in Shrewsbury at about 15s. per ton.

_ENVIRONS OF THE TOWN_.

Sutton Spa.

QUITTING Shrewsbury by the suburb of Coleham, and proceeding for about a mile along a narrow lane, we reach Sutton Spa. Few countries in Europe can boast of more medicinal or mineral waters than England, the virtues of which have been well established, not from vulgar experience only, but from the repeated examinations of the most skilful physicians. The uncommon frequency of the healing springs may rationally be attributed to the lixivious quality of our rain water, to the variety of rich soils, with the spoils of which, from their property of dissolving, they must be fraught, and to the wonderful and inimitable chemistry of nature by which they are so happily impregnated as to become the easiest and surest remedies of the most grievous and otherwise incurable diseases.

For the following account of this Spa the author is indebted to a paper drawn up by Dr. Evans, (now of Llwynygroes,) and inserted in the Agricultural Survey of Shropshire by the Rev. Archdeacon Corbett:

“Sutton Spa is situated about two miles south of Shrewsbury, on the
slope of a gentle eminence, and close to a village of the same name.
The spring issues from a rocky stratum of ash coloured clay, or
argillaceous schistus, containing (as appears by its effervescence
with nitrous acid) a small portion of lime. Fresh from the spring,
the Sutton water is clear and colourless, and exales a slightly
sulphureous smell; which is most perceptible in rainy weather. It
sparkles little when poured into a glass, having no _uncombined_
carbonic acid in its composition. When first drawn its strong salt
taste is evidently mixed with a chalybeate flavour; but the latter is
wholly lost on exposure for a few hours, bubbles of air separating
slowly, and a reddish sediment lining the sides and bottom of the
vessel.

“The Sutton water has by many been compared with that of Cheltenham,
and supposed to contain nearly the same ingredients. It bears,
however, a much closer resemblance to sea-water, and has accordingly
been found most beneficial in those cases for which sea-water is
usually recommended.

“In the case of scrophula, the superior merits of sea-water has been
uniformly and universally acknowledged. A similarity of ingredients
would naturally lead us to expect similar effects from the Sutton
water; and I am happy to bear testimony, that a twenty years practice
at the Salop Infirmary, as well as in private practice, has furnished
me with abundant proofs of its success in the treatment of
scrophulous affections; and in addition to the properties possessed
by the Sutton-spring in common with sea-water, it enjoys one evident
advantage in containing iron. {108}

“The air of Sutton, as might be expected from its open elevated
situation, is dry and wholesome. The site commands a rich and highly
variegated prospect, bounded on one side by the magnificent group of
Breyddin and Moel y Golfa, with a long range of Welsh mountains
rising in full majesty behind them; and on the other by their no mean
rivals, the Wrekin and Stretton Hills. The view of Shrewsbury,
betwixt the branches of the adjoining wood, particularly when the
setting sun gilds every object with his mellowest light, is greatly
and most deservedly admired. The walk from Shrewsbury is pleasant
and picturesque; and the neighbourhood of a reasonable and abundant
market, can be considered as no trifling object, when compared with
the extravagant prices and scanty accommodations of many of our
remote watering-places.”

Since the before-named estimable and respectable physician drew up the account (about 1801) of the Spa, from which the above is extracted, a neat cottage and baths for hot and cold bathing have been erected by the noble proprietor, provided with comfortable accommodations for invalids. We cannot help thinking, that “while almost every fishing village on the coast is preparing conveniences for sea-bathing, how desirable would it be to extend similar advantages to the interior parts of the island, where poverty or infirmity render it impossible to visit the distant sea.”

The town is regained by a pleasant walk along the lane above the Spa, which leads the tourist into the Abbey Foregate, very near to the column erected in honour of Lord Hill.

Shelton Oak,

Stands about one mile and a half from Shrewsbury, just where the Pool road diverges from that which leads to Oswestry. This oak is remarkable, as well for its size as its traditional history. Owen Glyndwr is said to have ascended it at the battle of Shrewsbury to reconnoitre; but finding that the king had a numerous army, and that Northumberland had not joined his son Hotspur, he fell back to Oswestry, and, immediately after the battle, retreated precipitately into Wales.

The tree is now in a complete state of decay, even its larger ramifications; and within the hollow of it at bottom six persons at least may sit down and partake of refreshment.

Excursion to Haughmond Abbey and Uffington.

The pedestrian may, in this walk proceed either along the turnpike road or by the side of the river; we shall make choice, however, of the former, on account of its facility for the description of several interesting objects which present themselves on the route.

Proceeding from the town through the suburb of Castle Foregate, we leave the extensive linen factory of Messrs. Marshall, and Co. on the left, the monotonous noise from the machinery of which is very agreeably relieved by the pleasant and extensive view that presents itself, in conjunction with the bleaching fields belonging to Messrs. Benyons’ factory on the right, and renders the prospect extremely interesting. At the distance of one mile from the town, on the left, is the Old Heath. Previous to the erection of the present excellent prison, all condemned malefactors expiated their offences by the sacrifice of their lives to the offended laws of their country in a field which adjoins the road at this place. Continuing our jaunt to the turnpike, and keeping to the right, at the distance of about 2½ mites from Shrewsbury we reach Sundorn Castle, the residence of Mrs. Corbet. The landscape in travelling along this road is exquisitely beautiful; rich corn fields and pastures demonstrate the fertility of the soil, watered by the majestic stream of the Severn, with a great number of rivulets which, descending from the uplands, pour their tributary streams into that river; while the pleasant seats and farm houses, thickly scattered through the scene in contemplation, and surrounded by clumps of trees and copse wood, satisfy the spectator that nature has not in this neighbourhood lavished her treasures in vain.

The elegant mansion of Sundorn was erected in the castellated style by the late John Corbet, Esq.: Its site in a beautiful lawn, the venerable appearance of the castle, the sloping banks which surround the large sheet of water covered with plantations, the rich verdure of the adjoining woods, numerous corn fields and pasture grounds tufted with trees, the hedgerows and walks happily arranged, the bold appearance of the castle on the adjoining hill, diversify the scene and render the _tout ensemble_ extremely interesting.

Within the demesne of Sundorn, the remains of Haughmond Abbey are situated. Of the foundation of this once venerable pile there is now no entire trace. Of the Abbey-church, nothing remains but the south door of the nave, a most beautiful and highly adorned round arch, resting on slender shafts, between which on each side have been inserted a Gothic tabernacle, inclosing statues of St. Peter and St. Paul. The chapter-house is entire; it is oblong, with the upper end forming two sides of a hexagon. The roof is of fine oak, and above has been another story. The entrance is by a richly decorated round arch, with a window on each side, divided into two round arched compartments, by slender short pillars. The spaces between the shafts of these arches have Gothic niches, and statues of the Virgin Mary, Gabriel, St. Catherine, St. John, &c. South of the chapter house, and opposite the site of the church, are remains of the Refectory, and beyond a large building, consisting of a spacious hall, eighty-one feet by thirty-six, lighted by Gothic windows on each side, and a large one, once filled with tracery, at the west end. On the north side is a curious antique fire-place. Communicating with this, at the eastern extremity, and at right angles, is another apartment of nearly the same size, once evidently in two rooms. At the south end is an elegant bay window. It is conceived this building formed the abbot’s lodgings and hall. The situation of the Abbey on a rising ground, backed by a noble distant forest, commands a very rich and extensive view of the great plain of Shrewsbury, with the town and castle, enriched by mountainous tracts.

Proceeding from the Abbey along the bottom of the wood, and ascending the hill, we reach a shooting box, erected in the form of an ancient turret, by the late Mr. Corbet. Near it Lord Douglas, in the battle of Shrewsbury, was taken prisoner, in attempting to precipitate himself down the steep, when his horse fell under him, and he received a severe contusion on the knee. On reaching the summit of this hill, the traveller will enjoy a beautiful prospect. His attention is lost in variety; and his imagination for a while suspends its powers in contemplating indiscriminately the vast but diversified assemblage. In this situation he will recollect with pleasure the animated lines of Thomson, whose descriptive genius must continue to do honour to his country, as long as taste and elegance are regarded.

“Meantime you gain the height, from whose fair brow
The bursting prospect spreads immense around,
And snatch’d o’er hill, and dale, and wood, and lawn,
And verdant fields, and darkening heath between,
And villages embosom’d soft in trees,
And spiring towns, by surging columns mark’d
Of household smoke, your eye excursive roams,
Wide stretching from the hall, {113} in whose kind haunt
The hospitable genius lingers still,
To where the broken landscape, by degrees
Ascending, roughens into rigid hills.”

The spectator, if he has any taste for the sublime and beautiful in nature, will find himself abundantly repaid for the labour of the ascent. His eyes will wander with pleasure over the beautiful villas, the retreat of the rich and affluent, diversified with woods and corn-fields, that present themselves on the fertile plain adjoining the hill. Immediately before him, he will discover the ancient town of Shrewsbury, with its lofty spires, its noble river and canal, whilst in the distance a range of green mountains, interspersed with woods, that seem to be carelessly scattered on their sloping sides, form a suitable background to this picturesque and interesting scene.

Descending from the hill, we immediately reach the pleasant village of Uffington, situated on the banks of the Severn, where at the Bowling Green excellent accommodations will be met with. From hence the canal and river side afford a pleasant walk, which reconducts us to our starting place—Shrewsbury.

Attingham Hall,

Distant about four miles on the London road, is built of beautiful free stone, and is situated in a very extensive lawn on the banks of the river Tern, over which is a handsome bridge erected by the late lord Berwick. The south front, which is upwards of 365 feet in length, has an extremely grand appearance; being decorated with lofty Ionic pilasters and a magnificent portico. The interior of the house has much to recommend it, particularly its lofty and spacious hall, the entablature of which is supported by Verd Antique Scaglioni columns, with statuary capitals and bases. The picture gallery is a spacious room 78 feet 6 inches long, by 25 feet 6 inches wide, and 24 feet high. It contains many _chef d’œuvres_ of the old masters, particularly some valuable ones by Raffaello—Parmigiano—Paolo Veronese—Annibal Caracci—Rubens—Vandyck—Poussin—Kuyp—the Ostade’s—Murillo—Salvator Rosa—Berchem. The walls of this elegant room are of a deep lake colour; the ceiling supported by porphyry columns of the Corinthian order, the capitals and bases of which are beautifully gilded. Underneath the cornice of this extensive room is a gold fringe of great depth. The floor is inlaid with rich Mosaic work, and the grand staircase is finished in a corresponding style of magnificence. The suite of drawing rooms is superbly furnished with immense plate glasses and burnished gold furniture, and the ceilings are richly gilt. The boudoir is a beautiful small circular room, the pannels of which are decorated by the pencil of one of our first artists. The library is in the west wing, and is a very extensive and lofty room, the cornice is supported by rich Corinthian pilasters; and besides a very valuable collection of books, it contains several rare specimens of sculpture from the antique. Among those most worthy notice is a font {115} from Hadrian’s Villa; on the basso relievo on its exterior the story of Narcissus is beautifully told. A rich candelabra from the antique, of exquisite workmanship, near ten feet high—a fine colossal statue of Apollo Belvidere—a beautiful Esculapius—with a splendid collection of Etruscan vases from Herculaneum, busts, chimeras, &c. &c. The rooms on the first floor correspond in the grandeur and magnificence of their furniture with those on the ground floor.

The house was built originally from a design by Mr. Stewart, but it has lately undergone a very extensive alteration, under the superintendance of Mr. Nash; the rich and costly carvings and ornamental furniture, were executed by Mr. Donaldson, of Shrewsbury, whose correct taste in that fine art is too well appreciated to need any eulogium here.

The situation of the house is healthy and delightful; and the grounds contiguous thereto have lately been much improved. The view of this elegant seat, from the public road near the before-mentioned bridge has a fine effect: its beautiful front—the extensive shrubberies—with the park richly clothed with fine timber on the back ground, rising to a considerable height above the mansion; whilst in the distance on the left will be seen the pleasing village of Atcham—its parish church—and bridge, present, even to the passing stranger, a very pleasing scene. The gardens, walks and pleasure grounds, are laid out with taste, and display some very fine scenery.

Hawkstone,

The seat of the noble and celebrated family of the Hills, is situated on the eastern border of the county, about 14 miles from Salop, and though with regard to the surrounding country it may be said to stand on an extensive plain, it in itself consists of a group of prominent and astonishingly romantic rocks, forming by far one of the most attractive features, not only of this, but perhaps, taken altogether, of any other county. To attempt a particular or even a general description, would very far exceed the limits of our whole book, as a cursory inspection of its wonders occupies a walk of several days. General Paoli, who visited this place before the late improvements, publicly declared that in all his extensive travels, not even excepting Italy or Switzerland, there were some scenes here that surpassed in grandeur any thing he had seen.—A slight notice of some of its principal beauties will best become our humble efforts in so limited a work. The house, though spacious and elegant, and not of very ancient erection, notwithstanding it is embellished with some fine specimens of sculpture and painting, forms but a small part of what is sought after here; the attractive powers of Hawkstone consisting entirely in the enchantment of the surrounding scenery. Three or four massive rocks irregularly grouped, with their fine wooded sides disclosing at intervals abrupt crags, towers, and shelving precipices, with intermediate vallies of still seclusion and spreading lawns of verdant freshness, together with many a broad expanse of park, studded with luxuriant trees either grouped in groves, or single in feathery fullness, the whole enlivened by inhabitants appropriate, picture to the sight both at once and successively—scenes only equalled and seldom surpassed, even in the poetic regions of luxuriant romance.—The Grotto is approached through a stupendous natural chasm of great length, and narrowing till but one person at a time can pass, while over head the sky is just seen at a great height; a dark cavern is then passed, and the sky is again for a moment seen, when entering another cavern of complete darkness and gradual ascent, the grotto is, after considerable, though perfectly safe wandering, entered: the first appearance of this spacious cavern is truly sublime, as it is seen by the glimmering light of variously stained glass, throwing its lurid and sepulchral faintness on the massive pillars, till at length the grotto is entered with all its brilliance: It consists of a very extensive excavation, finely fretted to its termination with a profusion of rich petrifactions, shells, and marine productions. In one of its awful recesses, through an iron grate, is seen the figure of a British Druid, in complete costume, passing amid the massy pillars, in a dim and green light.—After various windings, a door suddenly opens in the summit of the precipice, where, over the shelving rocks below, and far above the highest forests, a scene of magnificence bursts on the eye exceeding almost conception. This height is with some difficulty descended by innumerable winding steps cut in the solid rock.

A SCENE in SWITZERLAND is presented here on the heathy summit of one of the mountains, where a narrow plank bridge crosses a deep chasm, and connects two rocks of terrific height and cragginess.

The terrace formed on the ridge of one of the hills, finely wooded, is terminated by an octagon summer-house, that commands a prospect of astonishing extent, from whence the bordering mountains of Wales, with parts of no less than 13 counties, are distinctly enumerated.—Near this place is a Column, 112 feet high, surmounted with a colossal statue of sir Rowland Hill, the first protestant lord mayor of London, in 1550, the 3rd year of Edward VI. In a most romantic glen, near this place, is an Urn, erected by the late sir Richard Hill, purporting that it was the hiding-place of one of his ancestors, during the civil wars of Edward I. while his house was ravaged by the parliament soldiers; but that his son speedily came to his assistance: the approach to and from it now is much facilitated, without destroying the wildness of the scene, by extensive passages and steps. Beyond this is a well-stocked Menagerie of living Animals, principally birds.—From hence, round the sudden and abrupt corner of a rock, and through the cleft body of an old oak, is entered one of the sweetest vallies imagination can tint, and most properly called ELYSIUM: It is bounded completely by wooded and inaccessible rocks, and can only be entered at this narrow passage, or at the extreme termination of its extent, about half a mile.—On the most western of this group of rocks are the remains of RED CASTLE, built in the reign of Henry III., though it is mentioned by this name in a grant as ancient as William the Conqueror. It is now in awful ruins; but lofty fragments of its walls form some of the most picturesque beauties of this romantic place; and fling on the mind, if such scenes needed it, the additional charm of that strange feeling that antiquity and fallen grandeur never fail to excite. Amid these towers is a well of surprising depth; called now the GIANT’S WELL. The site of this castle is ascended and descended (as is usual amid most of the strange scenes here) by steps cut in the rocks; and very frequently through caverns, sometimes natural, but always surprising. At the bottom of one of these is suddenly seen a Lion in his den, which, though assuredly a trifling toy amid such scenery, never fails to astonish the generality of visitors.—Here is also a SCENE in OTAHEITE, consisting chiefly of a Hut, built exactly on the model of what our lamented countryman, Captain Cook witnessed in that happy island, and ornamented accordingly: the scene wherein it is erected first pointed out the propriety.

To enumerate, much more to describe, all, or even the principal attractions of this wonderful place, would, as we before stated, very far exceed the limits we have allotted thereunto: yet before we close, as we would willingly please readers of every description, it may not be amiss to notice what is not improperly called NEPTUNE’S WHIM, a spot no doubt most largely applauded by the generality of visitors here. It is very properly detached at a tolerable distance from the principal scenery of Hawkstone; and consists of a cottage ornamented with shell-work and cinders, amid ponds of fish; behind which is a mighty figure of the marine god, with a profuse current gushing through his urn; he is accompanied, of course, by his Tritons and Nereids, spouting water through their leaden shells. This is acknowledgedly _a whim_ of his godship, whereof he partakes with mortals; nor can these trifles, or even some of the inscriptions, tend to lessen the august grandeur of this most magnificent spot, wherein art has had little more to do than clear a path, for the votaries of nature to have access to her most sportive and astonishing charms.

What skill, what force divine,
Deep felt in these appear! a simple train,
Yet so delightful mix’d, with such kind art,
Such beauty and beneficence combin’d;
Shade, unperceiv’d, so softening into shade;
And all so forming an harmonious whole;
That as they still succeed they ravish still.

THOMSON.

At the entrance to the Park is erected a very handsome and commodious Inn, capacious enough for the reception of a number of families; many of which frequently spend a considerable part of the summer in this delightful spot. The attention of the worthy host and the excellence of the accommodations, provisions and wines, must be experienced to be duly appreciated.

[Picture: Decorative graphic of building with tree, and houses with
church in background]

Howell, Printer.

* * * * *

FOOTNOTES.

{33} The Welsh word for the principality of Wales.

{89} A great quantity of human bones have from time to time been dug up in the grounds which surrounded this ancient friary, from which it appears probable that it was once used as a burying place for those who died of the plague, which frequently and severely visited this town. Phillips says that after the battle of Battlefield, between Henry IVth and Hotspur, “many persons of note were buried in the Black and Austin’s Friars in Shrewsbury.”

{108} Sutton-spring water:

_Grains_. A wine gallon of Sutton-water 1082 6 contains of muriate of soda Ditto of lime, with an 226 0 admixture of muriated soda Carbonate of iron 0 5 Clay and silex 11 5 Total of solid contents 1320 0 _Cubic Inches_. Carbonic acid 1.805 Common air, contaminated with 12.635 azote and sulphurated hydrogen gas Total of volatile contents 14.440

{113} The hospitable and truly old English mansion of Mrs. Corbet, which is seen on the right hand.

{115} When the French took possession of Rome, this font was undergoing a repair at the statuary’s, and was considered so valuable an antique, that the French Commissary priced it at 2000 guineas. Being claimed however by the statuary as his own property, he was allowed to retain it, and afterwards he contrived to convey it to Lord B. to whom it belonged.

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The Stranger in ShrewsburyChapter IV: Part 4

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