Chapter C: O R N W a L L (3)

Almost adioyning hereunto, is a heap of rocks, which presse one of a lesse size, fashioned like a cheese, and therethrough termed Wringcheese.

I know not well, whether I may referre to the parish of S. Neot in this Hundred, that which Mat. West, reporteth of K. Alfred, namely, how comming into Cornwall on hunting, he turned aside, for doing his deuotion, into a Church, where S. Guerijr and S. Neot made their abode (quaere, whether he meane not their burials) or rather so resolue, because Asser so deliuers it, and there found his orisons seconded with a happy effect.

Next, I will relate you another of the Cornish natural wonders, viz. S. Kaynes well: but lest you make a wonder first at the Saint, before you take notice of the well, you must vnderstand, that this was not Kayne the man-queller, but one of a gentler spirit, and milder sex, to wit, a woman. He who caused the spring to be pictured, added this rime for an exposition:

In name, in shape, in quality,
This well is very quaint;
The name, to lot of Kayne befell,
No ouer-holy Saint.
The shape, 4. trees of diuers kinde,
Withy, Oke, Elme and Ash,
Make with their roots an arched roofe,
Whose floore this spring doth wash.
The quality, that man or wife,
Whose chance, or choice attaines,
First of this sacred streame to drinke,
Thereby the mastry gaines.

In this Hundred, the rubble of certaine mines, and ruines of a fining house, conuince Burchard Craneigh, the Duchmans vaine endeuour, in seeking of siluer owre: howbeit, hee afterwards lighted on a thriftier vayne, of practising phisike at London, where he grewe famous, by the name of Doctor Burcot.

Killigarth, being interpreted in English, signifieth, He hath lost his griping, or reaching: and by his present fortune, (in some sort) iustifieth that name: for the same hath lately forgone Sir William Beuill, whome it embraced as owner & Inhabitant, by his sudden death, and is passed into the possession of the faire Lady his widdow, by her husbands conueyance.

It yeeldeth a large viewe of the South coast, and was it selfe, in Sir Williams life time, much visited, [131] through his franke inuitings. The mention of this Knight, calleth to my rememberance, a sometimes vncouth seruaunt of his, whose monstrous conditions, partly resembled that Polyphemus, described by Homer and Virgil, and liuely imitated by Ariosto, in his Orco: or rather, that Egyptian Polyphagus, in whome (by Suetonius report) the Emperour Nero tooke such pleasure. This fellow was taken vp by Sir William, vnder a hedge, in the deepest of Winter, welneere starued with cold, and hunger: hee was of stature meane, of constitution leane, of face freckled, of composition, well proportioned, of diet, naturally, spare, and cleanely inough; yet, at his masters bidding, he would deuoure nettles, thistles, the pith of Artichokes, raw, and liuing birds, and fishies, with their scales, and feathers, burning coles and candles, and whatsoeuer else, howsoeuer vnsauorie, if it might be swallowed: neither this a little, but in such quantitie, as it often bred a second wonder, how his belly, should containe so much: yet could no man, at any time, discouer him doing of that, which necessitie of nature requireth. Moreouer, he would take a hot yron out of the fire, with his bare hand; neuer changed his apparell, but by constraint, and vsed to lie in strawe, with his head downe, and his heeles vpwards. Spare he was of speech, and, instead of halfe his words, vsed this terme Size, as I will Size him, for strike him, hee is a good Size, for man, &c. Ouer-sleeping, or some other accident, made him to lose a day, in his account of the weeke, so as he would not beleeue, but that Svnday was Saterday, Saterday Friday, &c. To Sir William he bare such faithfulnesse, that hee would follow his horse, like a spanyell, without regard of way or wearinesse, waite at his chamber doore, the night time, suffering none to come neere him, and performe whatsoeuer hee commanded, were it neuer so unlawfull, or dangerous. On a time, his master, expecting strangers, sent him, with a panier, to his cater at the sea side, to fetch fome fish. In his way, he passed by a riuer, whereinto the tide then flowed, and certaine fishermen were drawing their nets: which after Iohn Size had a while beheld, hee casts to haue a share amongst them, for his master. So into the water he leaps, and there, for the space of a flight shoot, wadeth and walloweth (for swimme hee could not) sometimes up, and sometimes downe, carrying his panier still before him, to his owne extreame hazard of drowning, and the beholders great pittying; vntill at last, all wet, and wearied, out he scrambleth, and home he hieth, with a bitter complaint to his master, of his ill fortune, that he could not catch some fish, as well as the rest, where so much was going. In this sort he continued for diuers yeeres, vntill (vpon I wot not what veake, or vnkindnesse) away he gets, and abroad he rogues: which remitter brought him the end, to his foredeferred, and not auoyded destiny: for as vnder a hedge hee was found pyning, so under a hedge he found his miserable death, through penury.

Sir Williams father maried the daughter of Militon: his graundfather, the daughter and heire of Bear, whose liuelyhood repayred what the elder brothers daughters had impaired. The Beuils Armes are A. a Bull passant G. armed and tripped O.

In the same parish where Killigarth is seated, Master Murth inheriteth a house and demaynes. Hee maried Treffry; his father, Tregose. One of their auncestours, [132] within the memorie of a next neighbour to the house, called Prake, (burdened with 110. yeeres age) entertained a British miller, as that people, for such idle occupations, proue more handie, then our owne. But this fellowes seruice befell commodious in the worst sense. For when, not long after his acceptance, warres grewe betweene vs & France, he stealeth ouer into his countrey, returneth priuily backe againe, with a French crew, surprizeth suddenly his master, and his ghests, at a Christmas supper, carrieth them speedily vnto Lantreghey, and forceth the Gent, to redeemme his enlargement, with the sale of a great part of his reuenewes.

A little to the Westwards from Killigarth, the poore harbour and village of Polpera coucheth betweene 2. steepe hils, where plenty of fish is vented to the fish driuers, whom we call Iowters.

The warmth of this Hundred, siding the South, hath enticed many Gent. here to make choyce of their dwellings, as M. Buller now Sherife at Tregarrick, sometimes the Wideslades inheritance, vntill the fathers rebellion forfeited it to the Prince; and the Princes largesse rewarded therewith his subiects.

Wideslades sonne led a walking life with his harpe, to Gentlemens houses, wherethrough, and by his other actiue qualities, he was entitled, Sir Tristram; neither wanted he (as some say) a bele Isound, the more aptly to resemble his patterne.

Master Buller married the daughter of one Williams, a Counsellour at lawe in Deuon: his father, a younger branch of the ancient stocke, planted in Somerset shire, tooke to wife the widdowe of Courtney, and daughter and heire to Trethurffe; by whose dower, and his owne indeuour, he purchased and left to his sonne, faire possessions, but not vnencumbred with titles, which draue this Gentleman to salue them all by new compositions with the pretenders: and for compassing the same, to get an extraordinary experience in husbandry. His ancestours bare S. on a playne Crosse A. quarter pierced 4. Eagles of the field.

At S. Winowe inhabiteth M. Thomas Lower, commendable through his double prouision, against the warres, as hauing both furnished himself with great ordinance, for priuate defence of the County, and thrust forth his sonnes to be trayned in martiall knowledge and exercises, for the publike seruice of the Countrey.

His wife was one of Reskimers daughters and heires: his mother, the daughter of Treffrey: his house descended to his auncestour, by match with Vpton. Hee beareth B. a Cheuron engrayled O. betweene three Roses A.

Laureast, is the inheritance of M. Iohn Harris, a Gent. employing his sound iudgement, and other praise-worthy parts, to the seruice of his Prince and country, & the good of his friends and himself. His wife was daughter and heire to Hart; his mother sister to M. Chr. Harris, which (by his vncles yet want of issue) intitleth him with a faire expectancy. Hee beareth S. 3. Croissants within a border A.

Treworgy is owed by M. Kendal, and endowed with a pleasant and profitable fishing and command of the riuer, which flitteth vnder his house. He maried with Buller: his mother was daughter to Moyle of Bake, and beareth A, a Cheuron betweene 3. Dolphins S.

Master Glyn of Glynfoord, manifesteth, by this compounded name, the antiqitie of his descent, and [133] the ordinary passage there, ouer Foy riuer. The store of Sammons which it affoordeth, caused his ancestours ta take the Sammon speares for their Armes: for hee beareth A, a Cheuron, betweene three Sammon speares S.

Sundry more Gentlemen this little Hundred possesseth and possessioneth, as Code, who beareth A. a Cheuron, G. betweene three Crowes. May, G. a Cheuron vary betweene three Crownes. Achym, A. a Maunche Maltaile S. within a border of the first, charged with Cinquefoyles, as the second Grilles, &c. But want of information, and lothnes to waxe tedious, maketh mee fardle vp these, and omit the rest.

It is hemmed in one the West, by the East side of Foy hauen, at whose mouth standeth Hall, in Cornish, a moore, and (perhaps) such it was before better manurance reduced it to the present fruitfulnesse. The same descended to Sir Reignald Mohun, from his ancestours, by their match with the daughter and heire of Fits-Williams; and (amongst other commodities) is appurtenanced with a walk, which if I could as playnly shew you, as my selfe haue oftentimes delightingly seene it, you might, & would auow the same, to be a place of diuersified pleasings: I will therefore do my best, to trace you, a shaddow thereof, by which you shal (in part) giue a gesse at the substance.

It is cut out in the side of a steepe hill, whose foote the salt water washeth, euenly leuelled, to serue for bowling, floored with sand, for soaking vp the rayne, closed with two thorne hedges, and banked with sweete senting flowers: It wideneth to a sufficient breadth, for the march of fiue or sixe in front, and extendeth, to not much lesse, then halfe a London mile: neyther doth it lead wearisomely forthright, but yeeldeth varied, & yet, not ouer-busie turnings, as the grounds oportunity affoordeth; which aduantage encreaseth the prospect, and is conuerted on the foreside, into platformes, for the planting of Ordinance, and the walkers sitting; and on the back part, into Summer houses, for their more priuate retrait and recreation.

In passing along, your eyes shall be called away from guiding your feete, to descry by their fardest kenning, the vast Ocean, sparkled with ships, that continually this way trade, forth and backe, to most quarters of the world. Neerer home, they take view of all sized cocks, barges, and fisherboates, houering on the coast. Againe, contracting your sight to a narrower scope, it lighteth on the faire and commodious hauen, where the tyde daily presenteth his double seruice, of flowing and ebbing, to carry and recarry whatsoeuer the Inhabitants shall bee pleased to charge him withall, and his creekes (like a young wanton louer) folde about the land, with many embracing armes.

This walke is garded upon the one side, by Portruan; on the other, by Bodyneck, two fishing villages: behinde, the rising hill beareth off the colde Northern blasts: before, the towne of Foy subiecteth his whole length and breadth to your ouerlooking: and directly vnder you, ride the home and forraine shipping; both of these, in so neere a distance, that without troubling the passer, or borrowing Stentors voyce, you may from thence, not only call to, but confere with any in the sayd towne or Shipping.

Mounsieur la Noue noteth, that in the great hall of [134] iustice, at Paris, there is no roome left, for any more images of the French Kings: which some prophetically interpreted, to signifie a dissolution of that line, if not of the monarchy. But this halfening, the present flourishing estate of that kingdome, vtterly conuinceth of falshood. A farre truer foretoken, touching the Earle of Deuons progeny, I haue seen, at this place of Hall, to wit, a kind of Fagot, whose age and painting, approueth the credited tradition, that it was carefully preserued by those noble men: but whether vpon that prescience, or no, there mine author failes me. This fagot, being all one peece of wood, and that naturally growen, is wrapped about the middle part with a bond, and parted, at the ends, into foure sticks, one of which, is, againe subdiuided into other twayne. And in semblable maner the last Earles inheritance accrued vnto 4. Cornish Gent. Mohun, Trelawny, Arundell of Taluerne, and Trethurffe: and Trethurffes portion, Courtney of Ladocke, and Viuian, do enioy, as descended from his two daughters and heires.

Sir Reig. Mohun is widdower of two wiues; the one, daughter to Sir Henry Killigrew, the other, to Sergeant Heale: his father, Sir William, married, first, the daughter of Horsey, and one of the heires, by the common law, to Sir Iohn her late brother; and next, the widdowe of Trelawny, who, ouerliuing him, enioyeth this Hall, as part of her ioynture; a Lady, gracing her dignitie, with her vertue, and no lesse expressing, then professing religion. Reignald, father to Sir William, wedded the daughter of Sir William Treuanion. The armes of the Mohuns are O. a Crosse engrayled Sa.

Powder Hundred.

SOme impute the force of Powder vnto this, that the same is conuerted, at an instant, from his earthy substance, to a fiery, and from the fire, into ayre; euery of which changes, requireth a greater enlargement, one then other: wherefore it finding a barre, ouer, vnder, and on the back and sides, by the pieces strong imprisonment, by consequence breaketh forth with a sudden violence, at the mouth, where the way is least stopped, & driueth before it, the vnsetled obstacle of the bullet, imparting thereunto a portion of his fury. To which (through want of a probable Etymon) I may, in part, resemble the hundred of Powder, not only for the names sake, but also because this parcel of the Cornish earth extendeth it selfe wider, and compriseth more parishes, then any other Hundred of the shire, as stretching East. and West, from Foy to Falmouth: and South and North, welnere from one sea to the other.

In describing the same, we must begin where we left, to wit, at Foy hauen, in Cornish, Foath. It receyueth this name of the riuer, and bestoweth the same on the town. His entrance is garded with Block-houses, & that on the townes side, as also the towne it selfe, fortified & fenced with ordinance. The commendation of which industry, is principally due to the prouidence and direction of M. Wil. Treffry, a Gent. that hath vowed his rare gifts of learning, wisdome, & courage, to the good of his country, & made proofe thereof in many occurrents, & to whose iudicious corrections, these my notes haue bin not a little beholden. His faire & ancient house, Castle-wise builded [135] and sufficiently flanked, ouerlooketh the towne and hauen with a pleasant prospect, and yet is not excluded from the healthfull ayre, and vse of the country, which occasioned his auncestours (though endowed elsewhere, with large reuennues, of their owne and their wiues inheritance) for many descents, to make, here their ordinary residence, as is witnessed by their toombe-stones, which I haue seen in the church. One of them, about 145. yeeres sithence, valiantly defended this his dwelling, against the French, what time they had surprized the rest of the towne.

Hee married one of Tremaynes heires: his father, the heir of Tresithny; his graundfather, the daughter of Killigrew: and beareth S. a Cheuron betweene three Hawthornes A.

But I will returne to the towne. During the warlike raignes of our two valiant Edwards, the first & third, the Foyens addicted themselues to backe their Princes quarrell, by coping with the enemy at sea, and made returne of many prizes: which purchases hauing aduanced them to a good estate of wealth, the same was (when the quieter conditioned times gaue meanes) heedfully and diligently employed, and bettered, by the more ciuill trade of marchandise; and in both these vocations they so fortunately prospered, that it is reported, 60. tall ships did, at one time, belong to the harbour, and that they assisted the siege of Callais, with 47. saile. Heereon, a full purse begetting a stout stomack, our Foyens tooke heart at grasse, and chauncing about that time (I speake vpon the credit of tradition) to sayle neere Rye, and Winchelsea, they stifly refused to vaile their bonets at the summons of those townes; which contempt (by the better enabled Sea-farers, reckoned intolerable) caused the Ripiers to make out with might and mayne against them; howbeit, with a more hardy onset, then happy issue: for the Foy men gaue them so rough entertaynment at their welcome, that they were glad to forsake patch, without bidding farewell: the merit of which exploit, afterwards entitled them Gallants of Foy: and (it may bee) they fought to eternize this memorable fact, after the Greeke and Romane maner, by inuesting the towne of Golant with that name: notwithstanding, quaere, whether a causelesse ambition in the posteritie, turned not rather Golant into Gallant, for their greater glory. Once, the townesmen vaunt, that for reskuing certaine ships of Rye from the Normans in Henrie the thirds time, they beare the armes, and enioy part of the priuiledges appertaining to the Cinque ports, whereof there is some memorie in their Chauncell window, with the name of Fisart Bagga, their principall Commaunder in that seruice. Moreouer, the prowesse of one Nicholas, sonne to a widdow, neere Foy, is deskanted vpon, in an old three mans songs, namely, how he fought brauely at sea, with Iohn Dory (a Genowey, as I coniecture) set forth by Iohn the French king, and (after much bloudshed on both sides) tooke, and slew him, in reuenge of the great rauine, and crueltie, which hee had forecommitted, vpon the English mens goods and bodies. Yet their so often good successe, sometimes tasted the sawce of crosser speeding; for Tho. Walsingham telleth vs, that Sir Hugh Calueley, and Sir Th. Percy, deputed to gard the sea, by R. the 2. Anno. 1379. chanced there to meete a Cornish barge, belonging to Foy harbour, which hauing worne out his victuals, and [136] time, limited for the like seruice, was then sayling homewards, neither would be entreated by those knights, to ioyne companie with them: howbeit they bought this refusall verie deare. For no sooner was the English fleete past out of sight, but that a Flemmish man of warre lighted vpon them, and (after a long, and strong resistance) ouermastered them as well, at last in force, as they did at first in number, tooke the Barge, sunk it, and slaughtered all the Saylers, one onely boy, excepted, who in the heate of the bickering, seeing which way the game would goe, secretly stole aboord the Flemming, and closely hid himselfe amongst the ballast. Ouer a while, this Pirate cast Anker in an English harbor, where the boy, hearing his Countrimens voice, that were come aboord, riseth from his new buriall, bewrayeth the fact, & so wrought meanes, for their punishment, and his owne deliuery.

Not long after, our Foy gallants, vnable to beare a low sayle, in their fresh gale of fortune, began to skum the Seas, with their often piracies, (auowing themselues vpon the Earle of Warwicke, whose ragged staffe is yet to be seene, pourtrayed in many places of their Church Steeple, and in diuers priuate houses) as also to violate their dutie at land, by insolent disobedience, to the Princes Officers, cutting off (amongst other pranckes) a Pursiuants eares: whereat king Edward the fourth conceiued such indignation, as hee sent Commissioners vnto Lostwithiel, (a towne thereby) who, vnder pretence of vsing their seruice, in sea affaires, trained thither the greatest number of the Burgesses; and no sooner come, then laid hold on, and in hold, their goods were confiscated, one Harrington executed, the chaine of their hauen remoued to Dartmouth, & their wonted iolity transformed into a sudden misery: from which they striued a long time, in vaine, to releeue themselues: but now of late yeres doe more and more aspire to a great amendment of their former defeats, though not to an equall height of their first aboundance.

Where I may not passe in silence, the commendable deserts of Master Rashleigh the elder, descended from a yonger brother of an ancient house in Deuon; for his industrious iudgement and aduenturing, in trade of marchandise, first opened a light and way, to the townesmens newe thriuing, and left his sonne large wealth, and possessions; who (together with a dayly bettering his estate) conuerteth the same to hospitality, and other actions fitting a Gent. well affected to his God, Prince, and Countrey. He married the daughter of Bonithon; his father, of Lanyne, and beareth S. a plaine Crosse betweene 2. Croissants A.

Anno 28. H. 6. there was an Act of Parliament made, to restraine the abuses of sea-officers, in wrong exactions at Foy, and some other hauens.

The Lord of Pomier, a Norman, encouraged by the [1457.] ciuill warres, wherewith our Realme was then distressed, furnished a nauy within the riuer of Sayne, and with the same in the night, burned a part of Foy, and other houses confyning: but vpon approch of the countryes forces, raised the next day by the Sherife, he made speed away to his ships, and with his ships to his home.

In a high way neere this towne, there lieth a big and long moore stone, containing the remainder of certaine ingraued letters, purporting some memorable antiquity, as it should seeme, but past ability of reading.

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Not many yeres sithence, a Gentleman, dwelling not farre off, was perswaded, by some information, or imagination, that treasure lay hidden vnder this stone: wherefore, in a faire Moone-shine night, thither with certaine good fellowes hee hyeth to dig it vp; a working they fall, their labour shortneth, their hope increaseth, a pot of Gold is the least of their expectation. But see the chance. In midst of their toyling, the skie gathereth clouds, the Moone-light is ouer-cast with darkenesse, downe fals a mightie showre, vp riseth a blustering tempest, the thunder cracketh, the lightning flameth: in conclusion, our money-seekers washed, in stead of loden; or loden with water, in stead of yellow earth, and more afraid, then hurt, are forced to abandon their enterprise, and seeke shelter of the next house they could get into. Whether this proceeded from a naturall accident, or a working of the diuell, I will not vndertake to define. It may bee, God giueth him such power ouer those, who begin a matter, vpon couetousnesse to gaine by extraordinarie meanes, and prosecute it with a wrong, in entring and breaking another mans land, without his leaue, and direct the end thereof, to the princes defrauding, whose prerogatiue challengeth these casualties.

A little beyond Foy, the land openeth a large sandie drab Bay, for the Sea to ouer-flow, which, and the village adioyning, are therethrough aptly termed Trewardreth, in English, The Sandie towne. Elder times, of more deuotion then knowledge, here founded a religious house, which, in King Henrie the eights raigne, vnderwent the common downefall.

I haue receiued credible information, that some three yeeres sithence, certaine hedges deuiding a closse on the seaside hereabouts, chanced, in their digging, vpon a great chest of stone, artificially ioyned, whose couer, they (ouer-greedy for booty) rudely brake, and therewithall a great earthen pot enclosed, which was guilded and graued with letters, defaced by this misaduenture, and ful of a black earth, the ashes (doubtles) as that, the vrna of some famous personage.

Vpon a side of this bay, one M. Peter Beuill first began the experiment of making a saltwater pond, induced thereunto, by obseruing that the high Summer tydes brought with them young Basses and Millets, whom at their ebbing, they left behinde in little pits of the euen ground, where they would liue for many weekes without any reuisitation of the sea: who, as he bettered this naturall patterne, so did I his artificiall; but yet with a thankefull acknowledgement, by whome I haue profited.

Lostwithiel should seeme to fetch his originall from the Cornish Lostwithiall, which in English, soundeth a Lions tayle: for as the Earle of this prouince gaue the Lyon in armes, and the Lions principall strength (men, say) consisteth in his tayle; so this towne claymeth the precedence, and his Lords chiefest residence, & the place which he entrusted with his Exchequer, and where his wayghtier affaires were managed. Maioralty, markets, faires, and nomination of Burgesses for the parliament, it hath common with the most: Coynage of Tynne, onely with three, others; but the gayle for the whole Stannary, and keeping of the County Courts, it selfe alone. Yet all this can hardly rayse it to a tolerable condition of wealth and inhabitance. Wherefore I will [138] detayne you no longer, then vntill I haue shewed you a solemne custome in times past here yeerely obserued, and onely of late daies discontinued, which was thus:

Vpon little Easter Sunday, the Freeholders of the towne and mannour, by themselues or their deputies, did there assemble: amongst whom, one (as it fell to his lot by turne) brauely apparelled, gallantly mounted, with a Crowne on his head, a scepter in his hand, a sword borne before him, and dutifully attended by all the rest also on horseback, rode thorow the principall streete to the Church: there the Curate in his best beseene, solemnely receiued him at the Churchyard stile, and conducted him to heare diuine seruice: after which, he repaired with the same pompe, to a house foreprouided for that purpose, made a feast to his attendants, kept the tables end himselfe, and was serued with kneeling, assay, & all other rites due to the estate of a Prince: with which dinner, the ceremony ended, and euery man returned home again. The pedigree of this vsage is deriued from so many descents of ages, that the cause and authour outreach remembrance: howbeit, these circumstances offer a coniecture, that it should betoken the royalties appertaining to the honour of Cornwall.

M. Wil. Kendals hospitality, while he liued, and here kept house, deserueth a speciall remembrance, because, for store of resort and franknes of entertainment, it exceeded all others of his sort.

This towne anno 11. H. 7, was by act of Parliament assigned, to keepe the publike waights and measures, ordayned for the Countie.

Lostwithiel subiected it selfe to the commaund of Restormel Castle, alias, Lestormel, sometimes the Dukes principal house. It is seated in a park, vpon the plaine neck of a hill, backed to the Westwards, with another, somewhat higher, & falling euery other way, to end in a valley, watered by the fishfull riuer of Foy. His base court is rather to be coniectured, then discerned, by the remnant of some fewe ruines; amongst which, an ouen of 14. foot largenes, through his exceeding proportion, prooueth the like hospitality of those dayes. The inner court grounded vpon an intrenched rocke, was formed round, had his vtter wall thick, strong, and garretted: his flat roofe couered with lead, and his large windowes taking their light inwards. It consisted of two stories, beisdes the vaults, and admitted entrance and issue, by one onely gate, fenced with a Portcouliz. Water was conueyed thither, by a conduit, from the higher ground adioyning. Certes, it may moue compassion, that a Palace, so healthfull for aire, so delightfull for prospect, so necessary for commodities, so fayre (in regard of those dayes) for building, and so strong for defence, should in time of secure peace, and vnder the protection of his naturall Princes, be wronged with those spoylings, then which, it could endure no greater, at the hands of any forrayne and deadly enemy: for the Parke is disparked, the timber rooted vp, the conduit pipes taken away, the roofe made sale of, the planchings rotten, the wals fallen downe, and the hewed stones of the windowes, dournes & clauels, pluct out to serue priuate buildings: onely there remayneth an vtter defacement, to complayne vpon this vnregarded distresse. It now appertayneth by lease, to Master Samuel, who maried Halse : his father (a wise and pleasant conceited Gent.) matched with Tremayne.

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After wee haue quitted Restormel, Roche becomes our next place of soiourne, though hardly inuiting, with promise of any better entertainement, then the name carieth written in his forehead, to wit, a huge, high and steepe rock, seated in a playne, girded on either side, with (as it were) two substitutes, and meritorious (no doubt) for the Hermite, who dwelt on the top thereof, were it but in regard of such an vneasie climing to his cell and Chappell, a part of whose naturall wals is wrought out of the rock itselfe.

Neere the foote of Roche, there lyeth a rock, leuell with the ground aboue, and hollow downwards, with a winding depth, which contayneth water, reported by some of the neighbours, to ebbe and flowe as the sea. Of these, as another Cornish wonder.

You neighbour-scorners, holy-prowd,
Goe people Roche's cell,
Farre from the world, neere to the heau'ns,
There, Hermits, may you dwell.
Is't true that Spring in rock hereby,
Doth tide-wise ebbe and flow?
Or haue wee fooles with lyers met?
Fame saies it: be it so.

From hence ascending easily the space of a mile, you shall haue wonne the top of the Cornish Archbeacon Hainborough, which (as little to great) may for prospect compare with Rama in Palestina, Henius in Medica, Collalto in Italy, and Sceafel in the Ile of Man: for if the weathers darkenesse bounde not your eye-sight, within his ordynarie extent, you shall thence plainely discerne, to the Eastwards, a great part of Deuon, to the West, very neere the lands end, to the North and South, the Ocean, and sundrie Ilands scattered therein, wherethrough it passeth also for a wonder.

Haynboroughs wide prospect, at once,
Both feedes, and gluts your eye,
With Cornwals whole extent, as it
In length and breadth doth lie.

At Ladocke, in this Hundred, dwelleth master Peter Courtney, who doubly fetcheth his pedigree, from that honourable flocke, and embraceth the contentment of a quiet priuate life, before the publike charge in his Countrie, due to his calling, and to which long sithence, he hath bene called. His father maried (as I haue shewed) the daughter & coheir of Trethurffe, himselfe Reskimers, his sonne the daughter of Saintabyn: he beareth O. three Torteaux, and a File with as many Lambeaux, B.

Leo Aser, in the delightfull, and approued description of his Countrie, telleth vs of a blind guide, who would readily and safely conduct straunger trauailers, ouer the huge Deserts, with which that region aboundeth, and that the meanes he vsed, was, in certaine distances, to smell at the sand, which gaue him perfect notice of the places.

Likewise, Lewes Guicciardin, in his booke of Netherland, maketh report of one Martyn Catelyn, borne at Weruicke in Flaunders, who falling blind before he attained two yeeres age, grew, notwithstanding, by his owne industrie, without any teacher, to such a perfection in Timber handy-craft, as he could, not only turne, [140] and make Virginals, Organes, Vyolons, and such like Instruments, with great facilitie, order, and proportion, but also tune, and handsomely play vpon them, and besides, deuised many seruiceable tooles for his science.

These examples I thrust out before me, to make way, for a not much lesse straunge relation, touching one Edward Bone, sometimes seruant to the said master Courtney: which fellow (as by the assertion of diuers credible persons, I haue beene informed) deafe from his cradle, and consequently dumbe, would yet bee one of the first, to learne, and expresse to his master, any newes that was sturring in the Countrie: especially, if there went speech of a Sermon, within some myles distance, hee would repaire to the place, with the soonest, and setting himselfe directly against the Preacher, looke him stedfastly in the face, while his Sermon lasted: to which religious zeale, his honest life was also answerable. For, as hee shunned all lewd parts himselfe, so, if hee espied any in his fellow seruants, (which hee could and would quickely doe) his master should straightwayes know it, and not rest free from importuning, vntill, either the fellow had put away his fault, or their master his fellow. And to make his minde knowne, in this, and all other matters, hee vsed verie effectuall signes, being able therethrough, to receiue, and perform any enioyned errand. Besides, hee was afflicted with so firme a memorie, that he would not onely know any partie, whome hee had once seene, for euer after, but also make him knowne to any other, by some speciall obseruation, and difference. Vpon a brother of his, God laid the like infirmitie, but did not recompence it with the like raritie.

Somewhat neere the place of his birth, there dwelt another, so affected, or rather defected, whose name was Kempe: which two, when they chaunced to meete, would vse such kinde embracements, such strange, often, and earnest tokenings, and such heartie laughters, and other passionate gestures, that their want of a tongue, seemed rather an hinderance to others conceiuing them, then to their conceiuing one another.

Gwarnack, in this Hundred, was the Beuils ancient seate, whose two daughters and heires, married Arundel of Trerice, and Greinuile.

Wolueden, alias, Golden, fell vnto Tregian, by match with the Inheritrix thereof. Tregean signifieth the Giants towne: their sonne married in Lanherne house, their Graund-child with the L. Stourtons daughter: hee beareth Erm. on a chiefe S. three Martlets O.

It standeth in Probus Parish, whose high, and faire Church towre, of hewed Moore stone, was builded within compasse of our remembrance, by the well disposed Inhabitants: and here also dwelleth one Williams, a wealthie, and charitable Farmer, Graund-father to sixtie persons, now liuing, and able, lately to ride twelue myles in a morning, for being witnesse to the christening of a child, to whome hee was great great Graundfather.

From hence, drawing towards the South sea, wee will touch at the late Parke of Lanhadron, because there groweth an Oke, bearing his leaues speckled with white, as doth another, called Painters Oke, in the Hundred of East: but whether the former partake any supernaturall propertie, to foretoken the owners sonne insuing death, when his leaues are al of one colour (as I haue [141] heard some report) let those affirme, who better know it: certain it is, that diuers auncient families in England are admonished by such predictions.

Grampond, if it tooke that name from any great Bridge, hath now Nomen sine re: for the Bridge there is supported with onely a few arches, and the Corporation but halfe, replenished with Inhabitants, who may better vaunt of their townes antiquitie, then the towne of their abilitie.

Of Pentuan I haue spoken before. For the present, it harboureth master Dart, who as diuers other Gentlemen, well descended, and accommodated in Deuon, doe yet rather make choyce of a pleasing and retired equalitie in the little Cornish Angle. Hee matched with Roscarrocke.

Penwarne, in the same Parish of Meuagesy, alias, S. Meuie, and Isy (two nothing ambitious Saints, in resting satisfied with the partage of so pettie a limit) is vested in master Otwell Hill, as heire to his mother, the daughter and heire to Cosowarth, to whom it likewise accrued, by matching with the daughter and heire of that name: a seate, through his fruitfulnesse, and other appurtenances, supplying the owner large meanes of hospitalitie, and by him so imployed, who reckoned to receiue most good, when he doth it. He deriueth himselfe from a populous, and well regarded familie in Lancashire, and married the daughter of Denham: and beareth G. a Cheuron, between three Garbes Ermine.

At the adioyning Saint Tue, dwelleth master Richard Tremayn, descended from a yonger brother of Colocumb house, in Deuon, who being learned in the lawes, is yet to learne, or at least to practise, how he may make other profit thereby, then by hoording vp treasure of gratitude, in the mindfull breasts of poore and rich, on whom hee, gratis, bestoweth the fruites of his paines and knowledge. He married Coffyn, hee beareth G. three Armes in circle ioyned at the Tronkes 0. with hands proper.

Dudman, a wel-knowne foreland to most Saylers, here shouldreth out the Ocean, to shape the same a large bosome betweene it selfe, and Rame head, which are wel-neere twentie myles in distance. Amongst sundrie prouerbs, allotting an impossible time of performance, the Cornish men haue this one, When Rame-head and Dudman meet. Whose possession, yet, though not themselues, met in Sir Peers Edgecumb, as inioyning that, in right of his wife, and this, by descent from his Father.

Bodrugan, a large demaines adioyning thereunto (which I will not deriue from Sir Bars du Ganis, though the neighbours so say) was the dwelling of Sir Henrie Trenowith, a man of great liuely-hood, who chaunged his name with the house, and lost house and holding, through attainder for rebellion, against king Henrie the seuenth. The king bestowed it, by an intailed gift, vpon Sir Richard Edgecumb.

Next, lyeth the foreremembred Caryhayes (Kery haz in Cornish, signifieth to beare his seede, or as some other define it, delighting in seede) descended to M. Charles Treuanion, the present possessioner, by a long ranke of auncestors, from Arundels daughter and heire: his father married the daughter of Morgan, and sister to the first Lord Humdons wife, which brought him an honourable ally. Three of this Gentlemans elder brethren, Edward, Iohn, and Hugh, forewent him in succession [142] to their fathers inheritance, and passed to the better world in a single life: himselfe by matching the daughter and heire of Witchalse, whose mother was coheire to Marwood, hath raised issue vnto them, and continueth the hope of posteritie. Sir William Treuanion, his Graundsire, tooke to wife the said Sir Richard Edgecumbs daughter. The Treuanions Armes are A. a Fesse B. charged with three Escalops O. betweene two Cheurons G.

Roseland, is a circuite, containing certaine Parishes hereabouts, and benefiting the owners with his fruitfulnesse, so that though the original of his name came (perhaps) as master Camden noteth, from his former thickets, yet his present estate better resembleth a flowrie effect.

By this time we approch the limits of Falmouth Hauen, vpon one of whose Creekes, standeth the market and incorporate towne of Tregny, not specially memorable (in my knowledge) for any extraordinarie worth, or accident.

Of better regard is Truro, alias, Truru, or Trisow, as the principall towne of the Hauen, priuiledged with a Mayraltie, and benefited with the generall Westerne Sessions, Coynages, Markets, Faires, &c. The shape of the towne, and Etymon of the name, may be learned out of this Cornish propheticall rime.

Tru ru,
Triueth eu,
Ombdina geueth try ru.

Which is to say, Truro consisteth of three streetes, and it shall in time bee said, Here Truro stood. A like mischief of a mysterie, they obserue, that in taking T. from the towne, there resteth ru, ru, which in English soundeth, Woe, woe: but whatsoeuer shall become therof hereafter, for the present, I hold it to haue got the start in wealth of any other Cornish towne, and to come behind none in buildings, Lanceston onely excepted, where there is more vse, and profit of faire lodgings, through the Countie Assizes. I wish that they would likewise deserue praise, for getting, and imploying their riches, in some industrious trade, to the good of their Countrie, as the Harbours oportunitie inuiteth them.

Descending from Truro to the Hauens mouth, by water, you are ouer-looked, by sundrie Gentlemens commodious seates, as Fentengollan, in English, the Harts well, lately appertayning to master Carmynow, by interpretation often louing, and now to master Holcomb, who married the daughter of master Peter Courtney.

Master Sayers house, Ardeuora, inhabited by master Thomas Peyton, a Gentleman for his age and vertues, deseruing a regardfull estimation, [blank] Master Bescawnes, [blank] Master Sayers: but amongst all, vpon that side of the riuer, Taluerne, for pleasant prospect, large scope, and other hous-keeping commodities, challengeth the preeminence: it was giuen to a yonger brother of Lanhearne, for some six or seuen descents past, and hath bred Gent. of good worth and calling: amongst whom, I may not forget the late kind, & valiant Sir Iohn Arundell, who matched with Godolphin, nor Iohn his vertuous, and hopeful succeeding sonne, who married with Carew; though this remembrance renew that sorrow, which once I partly expressed in the ensuing Epitaph.

[143]

Seeke not, blind eyes, the liuing with the dead,
Tis earth you see : our Arundel is gone,
To ioyne with Christ, as member to his head,
And skornes, and pities, this our bootlesse mone.
Yet pardon vs, sweete soule, mans nature beares,
We, to thy losse, should sacrifice our teares.

Thou time hast changed to eternitie,
But timelesse was that time, in our regard,
Since nought thou leau'st vs, faue the memorie
Of thy deare worth, so soone not to be spar'd.
Soft be the graue, vnto thy resting bones:
Short be the date, that vs againe atones.

Vpon the East side of the Hauens entrance, Saint Maryes, alias, S. Mawes Castle, with his Point-blanke Ordinance, comptrolleth any shipping, that deserue a deniall of admission or passage, and is commaunded by master Viuian, a Gentleman, who through his worth deserueth, and with due care and judgement dischargeth, the Martiall and ciuill gouernments committed to his trust: hee beareth partie per fesse Ar. and Vnsase 6. in chiefe, a Lyon rampant G.

We will close vp this Hundred, after our vsuall maner, with the Gentlemen of marke, but not orderly marked. Such are Tanner, who married the daughter of Roscarrock: who beareth A. on a chiefe S. three Morions heads O. Pomeroy, a branch of Bery Pomeroy in Deuon: he beareth O. a Lyon rampant G. who matched with Tanner, and whose daughter & heire apparant, hath taken to husband the yong Penkeuil, who beareth A. two Cheurons, and in chiefe a Lyon passant G. Polwheele, whose name is deduced from his dwelling: and his dwelling may be interpreted, The miry worke, linked in wedlock with the coheire of Trencreeke, in English, The towne of the borough. His mother was Lower of Trelask. Polwheel beareth S. a Saultier engrayled Erm.

Hearle, lineally descended from sundry Knights, who wedded Treuanion: and his sonne Treffry. Hee bearth A. a Fesse G. betweene 3. Sheldrakes proper.

Sawle, who espoused Rashleigh: and his father, Kendall, &c. and beareth A. a Cheuron betweene 3. Faulcons heads erased S.

Pider Hundred.

I Must now, for a while, bid the South sea farewell, vntill a new oportunity call mee to end the other part of Falmouth hauen, and take the Hundred of Pider in taske, which confineth with Powder in situation, as it resembleth the same in denomination.

Pider in Cornish is 4. in English, and this is the fourth Hundred of Cornwall, if you begin your reckoning from the Wester part, at Penwith, which (signifying a head) doth seeme so to require it.

In entring this Hundred, Padstowe first presenteth it selfe, a towne and hauen of suteable quality, for both (though bad) are the best, that the North Cornish coast possesseth. The Borough gaue name to the harbour, and borroweth it of Petrock and Stowe, contracting the same into Padstowe. It hath lately purchased a corporation and reapeth greatest thrift, by traffiking [144] with Ireland, for which it commodiously lieth.

The harbour is barred with banks of sand, made (through vniting their weak forces) sufficiently strong, to resist the Oceans threatening billows, which (diuorced from their parent) find their rage subdued by the others lowly submission.

M. Nicholas Prideaux, from his new and stately house, thereby taketh a ful and large prospect of the towne, hauen, & countrey adioyning, to all which, his wisdome is a stay, his authority a direction. He maried one of Viels coheires; and though endowed with fayre reuenues in Deuon, maketh Cornwall beholden to his residence. He beareth A. a Cheuron S. in chief a fyle with three Lambreaux G.

The salt water leauing Padstowe, floweth up into the countrey, that it may embrace the riuer Camel, and hauing performed this naturall courtesie, ebbeth away againe, to yield him the freer passage, by which meanes they both vndergoe Wade bridge, the longest, strongest, and fayrest that the Shire can muster. It tooke his name of a foorde adioyning, which affoordeth a way, not so safe, as compendious, when the tyde is out.

Wade bridge delivereth you into a waste ground, where 9. long and great stones, called The sisters, stand in a ranke together, and seeme to haue bene so pitched, for continuing the memory of somewhat, whose notice is yet enuied vs by time.

Neere to Belowdy, commonly, & not vnproperly, termed Beelowzy, the top of a hill is enuironed with deep treble trenches, which leaue a large playne space in the midst: they call it Castellan Danis, of which my former booke maketh mention; and it seemeth (in times past) to haue bin a matter of moment, the rather, for that a great cawsey (now couered with grasse) doth lead vnto it.

Saint Colombs is a bigge parish, and a meane market towne, subiect to the Lordship and patronage of the Lanhearn Arundels, who for many descents, lye there interred, as the inscriptions on their graue stones doe testify.

Theire name is deriued from Hirundelle, in French, a Swallow, & out of France, at the conquest they came, & sixe Swallowes they giue in Armes. The Countrey people entitle them, The great Arundels: and greatest stroke, for loue, liuing, and respect, in the Countrey heretofore they bare.

Their sayd house of Lanhearne, standeth in the next parish, called Mawgan: Ladu is Cornish for a bank, and on a banke the same is seated, what hearne may mean, ignorance bids mee keepe silence. It is appurtenanced with a large scope of land, which (while the owners there liued) was employed to franke hospitality; yet the same wanted wood, in lieu whereof, they burned heath, and generally, it is more regardable for profit, then commendale for pleasure. The Gent. now liuing, maried Anne the daughter of Henry Gerningham: his father (a man of a goodly presence and kinde magnanimity) maried the daughter of the Earle of Darby, and widdow to the L. Stourton. He beareth S. 6. Swallowes in pile A.

Little Colan hath lesse worth the obseruation, vnlesse you will deride, or pity, their simplicity, who sought at our Lady Nants well there, to foreknowe what fortune should betide them, which was in this maner:

Vpon Palm Sunday, these idle-headed seekers resorted thither, with a palme crosse in one hand, & an offring [145] in the other: the offring fell to the Priests share, the Crosse they threwe into the well; which if it swamme, the party should outliue that yeere; if it sunk, a short ensuing death was boded: and perhaps, not altogether vntruely, while a foolish conceyt of this halfening might the sooner helpe it onwards. A contrary practise to the goddess Iunoes lake In Laconia: for there, if the wheaten cakes, cast in vpon her festiuall day, were by the water receiued, it betokened good luck; if reiected, euill. The like is written by Pausanias, of Inus in Greece, and by others touching the offrings throwne into the fornace of mount Etna in Sicill.

From hence, by the double duety of consanguinitie and affinity, I am called to stop at Cosowarth, which inhabitance altered the Inhabitants from their former French name Escudifer, in English, Iron shield, to his owne, as they prooue by olde euidence, not needing in the Norman Kings new birth, to be distinguished with the Raigners number.

Cosowarth, in Cornish, importeth The high groue: and well stored with trees it hath bene, neither is yet altogether destitute.

Iohn the heire of that house, hauing by the daughter of Williams, issue only one daughter Katherine, suffered part of his lands to descend vnto the children of her first husband, Alen Hill: another part hee intayled in her second marriage, with Arundel of Trerice, to their issue. The house of Cosowarth, and the auncient inheritance there adioyning, he gaue to the heires male of his stock, by which conueyance, his vncle Iohn succeeded, who married the daughter of Sir Wil. Lock, King H. the 8. marchant, and by him knighted, for that with equall courage, and hazard, hee tooke downe the Popes Bull, set vp at Antwerp against his Soueraigne. He had issue Thomas, Edward, Michael, Iohn, and Robert. Thomas maried the daughter of Samtabyn, on whom he begat Iohn and Dorothy: Iohn the elder and Robert, neuer tasted the sweet and sowre of bridale fruit.

Michael tooke to wife Sidenhams daughter of Dulverton in Somerset shire, and is father onely of issue female.

Hee addicteth himself to an Ecclesiasticall life, and therein ioyning Poetry with Diuinity, endeuoureth to imitate the holy Prophet Dauid, whose Psalmes, of his translation into English meeter, receiue the general applause, beyond a great many other wel-deseruing vndertakers of the same taske.

Iohn the youngest, succeeding in this inheritance, vpon iust cause, good conscience, and gratefull kindnesse, renewed the intayle which his father Thomas had cut off, and in a single estate, and the vniuersall loue of all that conuersed with him, made a short period of his long hoped life: whose decease I bewayled in these rimes.

HE that at sea and land amidst his foes,
By courage guided, sought, and scapt his death,
Loe, here, amongst his friends, whom liking chose,
And nature lent, hath vp resign'd his breath.
Vnripened fruit in grouth, precious in hope,
Rare in effect, had fortune giuen scope.

Our eyes with teares performe thine obsequy,
And hearts with sighes, since hands could yeeld none aid, [146]
Our tongues with praise preserue thy memory,
And thoughts with griefs, since we behind are staid.
Coswarth farewell, death which vs parts atwaine,
E're long, in life, shall vs conioyne againe.

His sister maried Kendall.

Edward his vncle, and heire, by vertue of these entayles, married the daughter of Arundel of Trerice, and from a ciuill Courtiers life in his younger yeers, reposeth his elder age, on the good husbandry of the country, hauing raised posterity sufficient, for transplanting the name into many other quarters. He beareth A. on a Cheuron betweene three wings B. fiue Bezants.

Against you haue passed towards the West somewhat more then a mile, Trerice, anciently, Treres, offereth you the viewe of his costly and commodious buildings. What Tre is, you know already, res signifieth a rushing of fleeting away, and vpon the declyning of a hill the house is seated.

In Edward the 3. raigne, Ralphe Arundel matched with the heire of this land and name: since which time, his issue hath there continued, and encreased their liuelyhood, by sundry like Inheritours, as S. Iohn, Iew, Durant, Thurlebear, &c.

Precisely to rip vp the whole pedigree, were more tedious, then behoouefull: and therefore I will onely (as by the way) touch some fewe poynts, which may serue (in part) to shew what place & regard they haue borne in the Common wealth.

There was an indenture made, betweene Hugh Courtney, Earle of Deuon, Leiutenant to the King, for a sea voyage, in defence of the Realme: and Sir Iohn Arundel of Trerice, for accompanying him therein.

He was Sherife of Cornwall. [8. H. 5.]

Iohn Earle of Huntingdon, vnder his seale of Armes, [5. H. 6.] made Sir Iohn Arundel of Trerice, Seneshall of his houshold, as well in peace, as in warre, gaue him ten pound fee, and allowed him entertaynment in his house, for one Gentleman, three Yeoman, one boy, and sixe horses.

The same Earle, stiling himselfe Lieutenant generall [8. H. 6.] to Iohn Duke of Bedford, Constable and Admirall of England, wrote to the said Sir Iohn Arundel, then Vice-admirall of Cornwall, for the release of a ship, which hee had arrested by vertue of his office.

The Queene, by her letter, aduertised Iohn Arundel of [3. H. 7.] Trerice Esquire, that she was brought in child-bed of [12.Oct.] a Prince.

The King wrote to Sir Iohn Arundel of Trerice, that [11. H. 8] he should giue his attendance at Canterbury, about the entertaynment of the Emperour, whose landing was then and there expected.

Iohn Arundel of Trerice Esquire, tooke prisoner, [14. H. 8.] Duncane Campbell, a Scot, in a fight at sea, as our Chronicle mentioneth, concerning which, I thought it not amisse, to insert a letter sent him from Tho. Duke of Norfolke (to whom he then belonged) that you may see the stile of those dayes.

[147]

By the Duke of Norf.