Chapter C: O R N W a L L (2)

The towne is of late yeeres well encreased and adorned with buildings, & the townsmen addict themselues to the honest trade of marchandise, which endoweth them with a competent wealth. Some 7. or 8. ships belong thereunto.

It was not long since, that the neighbour-ministers successiuely bestowed their paines in preaching there, on the market daies, and the bordering gentlemen yeelded their presence. Sermon ended, the Preachers resorted to one ordinary, and the Gentlemen to another. This affoorded commendable effects to many works of loue and charity: but, with the retorted blame, from one to another, it is now wholly giuen ouer.

Heere, that great Carrack, which Sir Frauncis Drake surprised, in her returne from the East Indies, vnloded her frayght, and through a negligent fyring, met with an vnproper ending.

In this towne also dwelleth one Grisling, deafe from a long time, who, besides his merry conceites, of counterfeyting by signes (like the Romane Pantomimi) any kinde of occupation or exercise, hath a strange quality, to vnderstand what you say, by marking the mouing of your lips, especially if you speake deliberately, of any ordinary matter, so as (contrary to the rules of nature, and yet without the helpe of arte) he can see words as they passe forth of your mouth: and of this I haue caused him to giue often experiments.

And if Plyny now liued, I suppose he would affoord a roome, in his natural History, to a dogge of this town, who (as I haue learned by the faithfull report of master Thomas Parkins) vsed daily to fetch meate at his house there, and to carry the same vnto a blinde mastiffe, that lay in a brake without the towne: yea, (that more is) hee would vpon Sundayes conduct him thither to dynner, and, the meale ended, guide him back to his couch and couert againe.

I had almost forgotten to tell you, that there is a well in this towne, whose water will neuer boyle peason to a seasonable softnes.

At the foot of Saltash, there abbutteth vpon the sea, a rock, called Ashtorre, alias, Effes Torre, which is inuested with the iurisdiction of a mannour, and claymeth the suites of many Gentlemen, as his freeholders in Knights [114] seruice. Below this, there is a rock on eche side of the riuer, the one termed the Bull, the other the Hen; that on Deuon, this on Cornwall side. The Hen standeth a little distant from the shore, which giueth occasion to a Packe, how between it and the land, the Queenes greatest ship may saile; but it is meant of the farther distant.

Aboue Saltash, Cargreen, a fisher towne, sheweth it selfe, but can hardly muster a meane plight of dwellings or dwellers: so may their care be greene, because their wealth is withered.

Neere thereunto is Clifton, a neat seated house, appertayning to one of the Arundels, descended by a yonger brother, from those of Trerice; he maried Hill, his father, Cole.

Neither hath your eye scarcely quitted that, when it receiueth Halton, the pleasant and commodious dwelling of M. Anthony Rouse, both which benefits, he empleyeth to a kind & vninterrupted entertainment of such, as visit him vpon his not spare inuiting, or their owne occasions, who (without the selfe guilt of an vngratefull wrong) must witnes, that his frankenesse confirmeth their welcome, by whatsoeuer meanes, prouision, the fewell of hospitality, can in the best maner supply. His auncestours were Lords of little Modbury in Deuon, before the descent of times grew to a distinguishment, by the date of writings: which mannour, together with other lands, through a lineall succession, fell to be possessed by Raphe, Wil. Raphe, Iohn, Wil. Raphe, and Raphe, whose daughter and heire Elizabeth, bestowed the same, with her selfe, vpon the family of the Dimocks, Robert, second sonne to the last mentioned Raphe, saue one, had issue Will, who maried Alice, the daughter and heire of Tho. of Edmerston. Wil. had another Wil. and he had Iohn, and Iohn againe had Wil. This Wil. had Roger, who vpon Iulian, sister and coheire of Iohn Hill of Fleet, begat Iohn and Richard, father to the Gentleman now liuing, and he matched with Elizabeth, daughter of Thomas Southcott, and one of the heires to her mother, the daughter of Barnehouse: besides which, he succeeded to his vncle Iohns inheritance, who deceased issuelesse: and being yet scarcely entred the limits of an healthfull olde age, seeth his pedigree extended into two farther descents. As for those outreaching mans memory, I haue seene them very sufficiently verified: his Armes are, O. an Eagle displayed B. pruning her wing, armed and langued G.

Vpon the top of a creek hereby, lyeth Crocadon, the mansion of M. Treuisa, a Gent, deriuing himselfe from the ancient and weldeseruing Chronicler of that name: he beareth G. a garbe O.

A mile aboue Halton, standeth Cuttayle, another house of M. Edgecumbs, so named (as wee may coniecture) of the French Courtaile, in English, short cut; because here, the salt water course is straightned, by the incroching banks. The buildings are ancient, large, strong and fayre, and appurtenanced with the necessaries of wood, water, fishing, parks, and mils, with the deuotion of (in times past) a rich furnished Chappell, and with the charity of almes-houses for certaine poore people, whom the owners vsed to releeue. It is reported, & credited thereabouts, how Sir Ric. Edgecumb the elder, was driuen to hide himself in those his thick woods, which ouerlook the riuer, what time being suspected of fauouring the Earle of Richmonds party, against King R. the 3. hee was hotely pursued, and narrowely searched for. [115] Which extremity taught him a sudden policy, to put a stone in his cap, & tumble the same into the water, while these rangers were fast at his heeles, who looking downe after the noyse, and seeing his cap swimming thereon, supposed that he had desperately drowned himselfe, gaue ouer their farther hunting, and left him liberty to shift away, and ship ouer into Brittaine: for a gratefull remembrance of which deliuery, hee afterwards builded in the place of his lurking, a Chappell, not yet vtterly decayed.

And thus hauing coasted the Cornish side of Plymmouth hauen, I hold it not amisse, to make report of such great voyages, as, by the memory of our Chronicles, or our owne view, from this harbour, tooke their beginning or ending.

Heere the neuer inough commended black Prince, attended by the Earles of Warwick, Suffolk, Sarisbury, and Oxford, the Lord Chandos and others, committed himselfe to the sea, with a nauy of 300. bottoms, for landing and maintayning his fathers right in France; and hither, after his glorious battell at Poictiers, he returned, with the captiue French King and his nobles.

Here the Lady Katherine, daughter to the King of Spaine, and wife to our Prince Arthur, tooke land, at her first arriuall in England.

Heere shipped himselfe, the Lord Darcy, sent by King Henry the 8. with a lusty crew of soldiers, for that Ferdinands iust assistance, against the Infidels: but vsed by him as a stale, for the vniust conquest of Christian Nauar.

Here, mostly, haue the troups of aduenturers, made their Rendez vous, for attempting newe discoueries or inhabitances: as, Tho. Stukeleigh for Florida, Sir Humfrey Gilbert for Newfound-land, Sir Rich. Greynuile for Virginea, Sir Martyn Frobisher, and Master Dauies, for the North-west passage, Sir Walter Raleigh for Guiana, &c.

Here, Count Mongomery made forth, with a more commendable meaning, then able meanes, or welspeeding effect, for relieving the hard besieged, and sore distressed Rochellers.

Here, Sir Fra. Drake first extended the point of that liquid line, wherewith (as an emulator of the Sunnes glorie) he encompassed the world.

Here, Master Candish began to second him, with a like heroicall spirit, and fortunate successe.

Here, Don Antonio, King of Portugall, the Earles of Cumberland, Essex, and Notingham, the Lord Warden of the Stanneries, Sir Iohn Norrice, Sir Iohn Hawkins (and who elsewhere, and not here ?) haue euer accustomed to cut sayle, in carrying defiance, againt the imaginarie new Monarch; and heere to cast anker, vpon their returne with spoyle and honour.

I omit the infinite swarme of single ships, and pettie fleetes, dayly heere manned out to the same effect.

And here, in eightie eight, the foreremembred Lord Admirall expected, and set forth, against that heauen-threatning Armado, which, to bee tainted with the shamefuller disgrace, and to blaze our renoume with the brighter lustre, termed itselfe, Inuincible. But I may not grow ouer-lasciuious in extolling.

King R. the 2. Anno 5. of his raigne, by Act of Parliament, restrained all passengers from shipping themselues in any other Ports then such as are there set down: of which Plymmouth was one.

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From Plymmouth hauen, passing farther into the countrie, Hengsten downe presenteth his waste head and sides to our sight. This name it borroweth of Hengst, which in the Saxon signifieth a horse, & to such least daintie beasts it yeeldeth fittest pasture. The countrie people haue a by word, that,

Hengsten downe, well ywrought,
Is worth London towne, deare ybought.

Which grewe from the store of Tynne, in former times, there digged vp: but that gainfull plentie is now fallen to a scant-sauing scarcitie. Those workes afford store of the formentioned Cornish Diamonds, The neighbouring Inhabitants obserue also, that when the top of Hengsten, is capped with a cloud, the same boadeth a showre within short time after.

Roger Houeden reporteth, that about Anno 806. a fleete of Danes arriued in West-wales, with whome the Welsh ioyned in insurrection against king Egbright, but hee gloriously discomfited them, at Hengistendune, which I take to be this place (if at least West-wales may, by interpretation, passe for Cornwall) because the other prouince, of that time, is more commonly diuided into North and South.

This down is edged by Carybullock, sometimes a parke of the Dukes, but best brooking that name, now it hath lost his qualitie, through exchaunging Deere for Bullocke.

A little aside from hence, lyeth Landwhitton, now Lawhittan, which (as I haue elsewhere noted) was exempted vnto Edwulff Bishop of Creditune, from the Cornish Diocesse, to which yet, both for the temporaltie, and spiritualtie, the same oweth present subiection.

Mary, into what new names Pontium & Coilleng there also mentioned, are now metamorphized, I must say amplio.

Those buildings commonly knowne by the name of Launston, and written Lanceston, are by the Cornishmen, called Lesteeuan (Lez in Cornish signifieth broad, & those are scatteringly erected) and were anciently termed Lanstaphadon, by interpretation, S. Stephens Church: they consist of two boroughs, Downeuet and Newport: that (perhaps so called) of downe yeelding, as hauing a steep hill: this, of his newer erection. With them ioyne the parishes of S. Thomas & S. Stephens. The parish Church of Launceston itselfe, fetcheth his title of dedication, from Mary Magdalen, whose image is curiously hewed in a side of the wall, and the whole Church fayrely builded.

The towne was first founded (saith M. Hooker) by Eadulphus, brother to Alpsius, Duke of Deuon and Cornwall, and by his being girded with a wall, argueth in times past to haue caried some valew.

A newe increase of wealth, expresseth it selfe in the Inhabitants late repayred and enlarged buildings. They are gouerned by a Maior, and his scarlet-robde brethren, and reape benefit by their fayres and markets, and the County Assizes. The Statute of 32. Henry 8. which tooke order touching Sanctuaries, endowed this towne with the priuiledge of one, but I find it not turned to any vse.

To the town there is adioynant in site, but sequestred in iurisdiction, an ancient Castle, whose steepe rocky-footed Keepe, hath his top enuironed with a treble wal, and in regard thereof, men say, was called, Castle terrible. The base court compriseth a decayed Chappell, a [117] large hall, for holding the shire-Assizes, the Constables dwelling house, and the common Gayle.

About 60. yeares past, there were found certaine leather coynes in the Castle wall, whose faire stamp and strong substance, till then resisted the assault of time, as they would now of couetousnesse.

A little without the towne, were founded a Friery, and anno 1128. an Abbey, furthered by Reignald Earle of Cornwall.

About 2. miles distant from Launceston, Penheale mannour coasteth the high way, claiming the right of ancient demain, & sometimes appertaining to the Earles of Huntingdon, but purchased not long sithence by the late M. George Greinuile, who descended from a yonger brother of that family, and through his learning and wisdome, aduanced his credit to an especiall good regard in his Countrey. He maried Iulian, one of the 6. daughters and heires of William Viel: and Iane, the daughter to Sir Iohn Arundel of Trerice. Richard his father tooke to wife, one of Kelwayes heires; and Degory his graundfather, one of the inheritors to Tregarthen: which helps, together with his owne good husbandry, haue endowed his sonne with an elder brothers liuelyhood: he beareth G. three Restes O.

In Lezant parish heereby, master Christopher Harris owneth a third part of Trecarell (the proiect: and onset of a sumptuous building) as coheire to the last Gentleman of that name, but admitteth no partner in the sweetly tempered mixture of bounty and thrift, grauity and pleasantnes, kindnesse and stoutnes; which grace all his actions. Hee beareth Sa. three Croissants within a border A.

Neither may wee forget Master Coringtons house of Newton, old to him by succession, yet new, in respect of his owne antiquitie: diuers his auncestors haue reaped the praise and reputation of a stayed carriage, howbeit one of them, through his rash, but merrie prankes,is to this day principally remembred, by the name of the mad Corington. I haue heard him deliuer an obseruation, that, in eight lineall descents, no one borne heire of his house euer succeeded to the land: hee beareth A, a Saultier Sa.

Trebigh, a priuiledged franchise, is by his Lord, Master William Wray, conuerted to a generall welcomer of his friends and neighbours. Hee married the daughter of Sir William Courtney: his father the coheire of Killigrew. Hee beareth Sa. a Fesse betweene three battelaxes A.

Poole, for his low and moyst seate, is not vnaptly named, houseth Sir Ionathan Trelawny, farre beneath his worth & calling: he married Sir Henry Killigrews daughter: his father, the coheire of Reskimer: his graundfather Lamellyns Inheritrix.

Poole standeth in Mynhinet parish, where Sir Ionathan hath a large priuiledged Mannour of the same name: the Benefice is giuen by Excester Colledge in Oxford, none but the fellowes admittable, wherethrough it hath successiuely beene graced, with three well borne, well learned, and welbeloued Incumbents; Doctor Tremayne, Master Billet, and Master Denis. Out of Sir Ionathans house is also descended Master Edward Trelawny, a Gentleman qualified with many good parts. Their armes are A. a Cheuron, S. betweene three Oke-leaues Vert.

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Sundrie other Gent. rest beholden to this hundred, for their dwellings, who, in an enuiable mediocritie of fortune do happilie possesse themselues, and communicate their sufficient means to the seruice of their prince, the good of their neighbours, and the bettering of their owne estate: of which sort are,

M. Becket, who beareth S. a Fesse, betweene three Boares
heads coped, sixe Crosses crosselet Fichee. O.

M. Tregodecke, who beareth A. a Cheuron betweene three
Buckles S.

M. Spurre, G. on a Cheuron O. a rose of the first, and
2. mullets pearced S.

M. Bligh, B. a Griffon segreant O. armed G. betweene 3.
Croissants A.

M. Lower, B. a Cheuron engrayled O. betweene three Roses A.

M. Truisa G. a garb O.

M. Chiuerton A. a Castle S. standing on a hill V. Manaton,
A. on a Bend S. three mullets of the field,

and some others.

Stratton Hundred

STratton Hundred extendeth the breadth of Cornewall, to the North, as that of East beginneth it on the South, and therefore it shall next succeede. His circuit is slender, but his fruitfulnesse great, and the Inhabitants industrie commendable, who reape a large benefit from their orchyards and gardens, but especially from their Garlick (the Countreymans Triacle) which they vent, not onely into Cornwall, but many other shires besides.

Stratton, the onely market towne of this Hundred, gaue the same his name, and (if I mistake not) taketh it from Strata, a street: other memorable matter to report thereof, I finde not any.

Vpon one side of the towne, lyeth master Chamonds house and place of Launcels, so called, for that it was sometimes a Cell, appertaining to the Abbot of Hartlond.

This Gentlemans father, late deceased, receiued at Gods hands, an extraordinary fauour, of long life.

Hee serued in the office of a iustice of peace, almost 60. yeeres.

He knew aboue 50. seuerall Iudges of the westerne circuit.

He was vncle, and great vncle to at least 300. wherein yet, his vncle and neighbour, master Greynuile, parson of Kilkhampton, did exceed him.

He married one of the daughters and heires of Treuenner, and by her saw fiue sonnes, and two daughters, the yongest out-stepping 40. yeeres.

Sir Iohn Chamond his father, a man learned in the common lawes, was knighted at the Sepulchre, and by dame Iane, widdowe to Sir Iohn Arundell of Trerice, and daughter to Sir Thomas Greynuile, had an elder sonne called Thomas, whose two daughters, and heires, by Arscot, caried part of the lands, to Tripcony, and Treuanion, with whome they matched.

Master Chamond beareth A. a Cheuron betweene 3. flowers de Luce: G.

In Launcels parish, also, standeth Norton, the house of M. Tristram Arscot, a Gent, who by his trauailing abroad in his yonger yeres, hath the better enabled himselfe, to discharge his calling at home. He tooke to wife Eulalia, the widdow of the wise, and vertuous M. Edmond Tremayne, and daughter of Sir Iohn Sentleger, whose stately house of Anery, in Deuon, he purchased, & thither hath lately remoued his residence; he beareth party per Cheuron B, et E, in chiefe two stagges heads cabased 0.

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Vpon the North-sea, thereby, bordereth Stow, so singly called, Per eminentiam, as a place of great and good marke & scope, and the auncient dwelling of the Greynuiles famous family, from whence are issued diuers male branches, and whether the females haue brought in a verie populous kindred. Master Bernard Greinuile, sonne and heire to Sir Richard, is the present owner, and in a kind magnanimite, treadeth the honourable steps of his auncestours.

Tonacumb, late the house of Master Iohn Kempthorne, alias, Lea, who married Katherine, the daughter of Sir Peers Courtney, is, by his issuelesse decease, descended to his brothers sonne: he beareth A. three Pine-apple trees V.

Returning to the Westwards, wee meete with Bude, an open sandie Bay, in whose mouth riseth a little hill, by euerie sea-floud made an Iland, and thereon, a decayed Chappell: it spareth roade onely to such small shipping, as bring their tide with them, and leaueth them drie, when the ebbe hath carried away the Salt-water.

Vpon one side hereof, Master Arundel of Trerice possesseth a pleasant-seated house, and demaines, called Efford, alias Ebbingford, and that not vnproperly, because euerie low water, there affordeth passage to the other shore: but now it may take a new name, for his better plight: for this Gentleman hath, to his great charges, builded a Salt-water mill, athwart this Bay, whose causey serueth, as a verie conuenient bridge to saue the way-farers former trouble, let, and daunger. It is receiued by tradition, that his belsire, Sir Iohn Arundel, was forewarned, by a wot not what Calker. how he should bee slaine on the sands. For auoyding which encounter, hee alwaies shunned Efford, & dwelt at Trerice, another of his houses. But, as the prouerb sayth, Fata viam inuenient, and as experience teacheth mens curiosity, Fato viam sternit. It hapned, that what time the Earle of Oxford surprized S. Michaels mount by policy, and kept the same by strong hand, this Sir Iohn Arundel was Sherife of Cornwall, wherethrough, vpon duety of his office, and commaundement from the Prince, hee marched thither, with posse Comitatus, to besiege it, and there, in a Skirmish on the sands, which deuide the mount from the continent, he fulfilled the effect of the prophecy, with the losse of his life, and in the said mounts Chappell lieth buried.

So Cambises lighted on Ecbatana in Egypt, and Alexander Epirot, on Acheros in Italy, to bring them to their end. So Philip of Macedon, and Atis the sonne of Croesus, found a chariot in a swords hilt, and an Iron poynted weapon at the hunting of a Bore, to delude their preuentiue wearinesse. So Amilcar supped in Siracusa, & the Prince of Wales ware a Crown thorow Cheapside, in another sort and sense then they imagined, or desired. And so Pope Gerebert, and our king H. the 4, trauailed no farther, for meeting their fatal Hierusalem, then the one to a Chappell in Rome, the other to a chamber in Westminster.

S. Marie Wike standeth in a fruitfull soyle, skirted with a moore, course for pasture, and combrous for trauellers. Wic, by master Lambert, signifieth a towne: by master Camden, Stationem, vel Sinum, ubi exercitus agit. This village was the birth-place of Thomasine Bonauenture, I know not, whether by descent, or euent, so called: [120] for-whiles in her girlish age she kept sheepe on the foreremembred moore, it chanced, that a London merchant passing by, saw her, heeded her, liked her, begged her of her poore parents, and carried her to his home. In processe of time, her mistres was summoned by death to appeare in the other world, and her good thewes, no lesse then her seemely personage, so much contented her master, that he aduanced her from a seruant to a wife, and left her a wealthy widdow. Her second mariage befell with one Henry Gall: her third and last, with Sir John Perciual, Lord Maior of London, whom she also ouerliued. And to shew, that vertue as well bare a part in the desert, as fortune in the meanes of her preferment, she employed the whole residue of her life and last widdowhood, to works no lesse bountifull, then charitable: namely, repayring of high waies, building of bridges, endowing of maydens, relieuing of prisoners, feeding and apparelling the poor, &c. Amongst the rest, at this S. Mary Wike, she founded a Chauntery and free-schoole, together with faire lodgings, for the Schoolemasters, schollers, and officers, and added twenty pound of yeerely reuennue, for supporting the incident charges: wherein as the bent of her desire was holy, so God blessed the same with al wished successe: for diuers the best Gent. sonnes of Deuon and Cornwall were there vertuously trained vp, in both kinds of diuine and humane learning, vnder one Cholwel, an honest and religious teacher, which caused the neighbours so much the rather, and the more to rewe, that a petty smacke onely of Popery, opened a gap to the oppression of the whole, by the statute made in Edw. the 6. raigne, touching the suppression of Chaunteries.

Such strange accidents of extraordinary aduancements are verified by the ample testimonie of many histories, and, amongst the rest, we read in Machiauell (howbeit controuled by the often reproued Iouius) that Castruccio Caestracani climed from a baser birth, to a farre higher estate. For being begotten in Lucca, by vnknowne parents, and cast out, in his swadling clouts, to the wide world, he was taken vp by a widdowe, placed by her with a Clergy man her brother, giuen by him to a Gent, called Francesco Guinigi, and by Guinigi left tutor to his onely sonne. From which step, his courage and wisedome raysed him by degrees, to the soueraignty of Lucca, the Senatorship of Rome, the speciall fauour of the Emperour, and a neere hope (only by death preuented) of subduing Florence.

Lesnewith Hundred.

LEsnewith Hundred taketh his name of a parish therein (as Stratton doth of a towne) memorable for nothing else. It may he deriued, either from Les, which in Cornish signifieth broad, and newith, which is new, as a new breadth, because it enlargeth his limits farther into Cornwall on both sides, whereas Stratton is straightned on the one by Deuon: or from Les and gwith, which importeth broad Ashen trees, g, for Euphonias sake being turned into n.

The first place which heere offreth itselfe to sight, is Bottreaux Castle, seated on a bad harbour of the North sea, & suburbed with a poore market town, yet entitling the owner in times past, with the stile of a Baron, from whom, by match it descended to the L. Hungerford, & [121] resteth in the Earle of Huntingdon. The diuersified roomes of a prison, in the Castle, for both sexes, better preserued by the Inhabitants memorie, then descerneable by their owne endurance, shew the same, heeretofore to haue exercised some large iurisdiction.

Not farre from thence, Tintogel, more famous for his antiquite, then regardable for his present estate, abbutteth likewise on the sea; yet the ruines argue it, to haue beene once, no vnworthie dwelling for the Cornish princes. The cyment wherewith the stones were layd, resisteth the fretting furie of the weather, better then themselues. Halfe the buildings were raised on the continent, and the other halfe on an Iland, continued together (within mens remembrance) by a drawe-bridge, but now diuorced, by the downefalne steepe Cliffes, on the farther side, which, though it shut out the sea from his wonted recourse, hath yet more strengthened the late Iland: for, in passing thither, you must first descend with a dangerous declyning, and then make a worse ascent, by a path, as euerie where narrow, so in many places, through his sticklenesse occasioning, and through his steepnesse threatning, the ruine of your life, with the failing of your foore. At the top, two, or three terrifying steps, giue you entrance to the hill, which supplieth pasture for sheepe, and conyes: Vpon the same, I saw, a decayed Chappell, a faire spring of water, a Caue, reaching once, by my guides report; some farre way vnder ground, and (which you will perhaps suspect of vntruth) an Hermites graue, hewen out in the rocke, and seruing each bodies proportion for a buriall. But, if that in Wales carrie an equall veritie, the myracle will soone reape credite: for this is so sloped inwards at both ends, that any tall stature shal find roome by a little bending, as the short in the bottome by extending.

The fardest poynt of this hill, is called Black head, well knowne to the coasting Mariners. The high cliffs are by sea vnaccessible round abouts, sauing in one only place, towards the East, where they proffer an vneasie landing place for boats, which being fenced with a garretted wall, admitteth entrance thorow a gate, sometimes of yron, as the name yet continuing, expresseth, and is within presently commaunded by a hardly clymed hill. Vnder the Iland runnes a caue, thorow which you may rowe at ful sea, but not without a kinde of horrour, at the uncouthnesse of the place. M. Camden deliuereth vs these verses out of an olde Poet, touching Tintogel.

Est locus Abrini sinuoso littore ponti,
Rupe situs media, refluus quern circuit aestus.
Fulminat hic late, turrito vertice Castrum,
Nomine Tindagium, veteres dixere Corini.

Which import in English:

There is a place within the wind-
ing shore of Seuerne sea,
On mids of rock, about whose foote,
The tydes turne-keeping play:
A towry-topped Castle heere,
wide blazeth ouer all,
Which Corineus auncient broode,
Tindagel Castle call.

It is not layd vp amongst the least vaunts of this Castle, that our victorious Arthur was here begotten by the valiant Vter Pendragon, vpon the fayre Igerna, and [122] that without taynt of bastardy, sayth Merlyn, because her husband dyed some houres before.

Of later times, Tintogel hath kept long silence in our stories, vntill H. the 3. raigne, at which time (by Mat. Paris report) his brother, Earle Ri grew into obloquy for priuy receyuing there, & abbetting, his nephew Dauid, against the King. After which, being turned from a Palace [8 .R. 2.] to a prison, it restrained one Iohn Northamptons libertie, who for abusing the same, in his vnruly Maioralty of London, was condemned hither, as a perpetuall Penitenciary. A see of ancienty belonging to this Castle, was cancelled as vnnecessary, by the late L. Treasurer Burleigh.

One collecting the wonders of Cornwall, rimed touching this, as followeth:

Tintogel in his ruines vauntes,
Sometimes the seate of Kings,
And place which worthy Arthur bred,
Whose prayse the Breton sings,
A bridge these buildings ioynd, whom now
The fallen clifs diuorce,
Yet strength'ned so, the more it scornes,
Foes vayne attempting force.
There, caue aboue, entrie admits,
But thorowfare denies;
Where that beneath alloweth both,
In safe, but ghastly wise.
A Spring there wets his head, his foote
A gate of Iron gardes:
There measure due to eche ones length,
The Hermits graue awards.

IN the mids of the wilde moores of this Hundred, far [122] from any dwelling or riuer, there lyeth a great standing water, called Dosmery poole, about a mile or better in compasse, fed by no perceyued spring, neither hauing any auoydance, vntill (of late) certaine Tynners brought an Audit therefrom. The countrey people held many strange conceits of this poole; as, that it did ebbe & flow, that it had a whirle-poole in the midst thereof, and, that a fagot once throwne thereinto, was taken vp at Foy hauen, 6. miles distant. Wherefore, to try what truth rested in these reports, some Gent, dwelling not farre off, caused a boate and nets to be carried thither ouer land. Fish, they caught none, saue a fewe Eeles vpon hookes: the poole prooued no where past a fathome and halfe deepe, and for a great way very shallow. Touching the opinion of ebbing and flowing, it should seeme to bee grounded, partly vpon the increase, which the raine floods brought thereinto from the bordering hils (which perhaps gaue also the name; for Doz, is, come, and maur, great) and the decrease, occasioned by the next drowth, and partly, for that the windes doe driue the waues to and fro, vpon those sandie bankes: and thus the miracle of Dosmery poole deceased. Of this other wonder hee sayd,

Dosmery poole amid the moores,
On top stands of a hill,
More then a mile about, no streames
It empt, nor any fill.

Camelford, a market and Fayre (but not faire) towne fetcheth his deriuation from the riuer Camel, which runneth thorow it, and that, from the Cornish word Cam, in English, crooked, as Cam, from the often winding stream. The same is incorporated with a Maioralty, & nameth Burgesses to the Parliament, yet steppeth little before the [123] meanest sort of Boroughs, for store of Inhabitants, or the Inhabitants store.

Vpon the riuer of Camel, neere to Camelford [525.], was that last dismal battel strooken betweene the noble king Arthur, and his treacherous nephew Mordred, wherein the one took his death, and the other his deaths wound. For testimony whereof, the olde folke thereabouts will shew you a stone, bearing Arthurs name, though now depraued to Atry.

Master Camden letteth vs vnderstand, that this towne is sometimes termed Gaffelford: wherethrough we may marke it for the lists of a great fight betweene the Bretons & Deuonshire men [812.], which Houeden assigneth to haue bene darrayned at Gauelford, and perhaps the same, which the said Master Camden voucheth out of Marianus Scotus [820.], and describeth by these verses of an elder Poet:

------------ Naturam Cambala fontis,
Mutatam stupet esse sui, transcendit inundans
Sanguineus torrens ripas, & ducit in aequor
Corpora caesorum, plures natare videres,
Et petere auxilium, quos vndis vita reliquit.

The riuer Camel wonders, that
His fountaines nature showes
So strange a change, the bloody streame
Vpswelling ouerflowes
His both side banks, and to the sea
The slaughtered bodies beares:
Full many swimme, and sue for ayde,
While waue their life outweares.

In our forefathers daies, when deuotion as much exceeded knowledge, as knowledge now commeth short of devotion, there were many bowssening places, for curing of mad men, and amongst the rest, one at Alternunne in this Hundred, called S. Nunnes poole, which Saints Altar (it may be) by pars pro toto, gaue name to the Church: and because the maner of this bowssening is not so vnpleasing to heare, as it was vneasie to feele, I wil (if you please) deliuer you the practise, as I receyued it from the beholders.

The water running from S. Nunnes well, fell into a square and close walled plot, which might bee filled at what depth they listed. Vpon this wall was the franticke person set to stand, his backe towards the poole, and from thence with a sudden blow in the brest, tumbled headlong into the pond: where a strong fellowe, provided for the nonce, tooke him, and tossed him vp and downe, alongst and athwart the water, vntill the patient, by forgoing his strength, had somewhat forgot his fury. Then was hee conueyed to the Church, and certaine Masses sung ouer him; vpon which handling, if his right wits returned, S. Nunne had the thanks: but if there appeared small amendment, he was bowssened againe, and againe, while there remayned in him any hope of life, for recouery.

It may be, this deuice tooke original from that master of Bedlem, who (the fable saith) vsed to cure his patients of that impatience, by keeping them bound in pooles, vp to the middle, and so more or lesse, after the fit of their fury.

[124]

Trigge Hundred.

THe name of Trig, in Cornish, signifieth an Inhabitant; howbeit, this Hundred cannot vaunt any ouer-large scope, or extraordinary plenty of dwellings: his chiefe towne is Bodmyn; in Cornish, Bos venna, commonly termed Bodman, which (by illusion, if not Etimology) a man might, not vnaptly, turne into Badham: for of all the townes in Cornwall, I holde none more healthfully seated, then Saltash, or more contagiously, then this. It consisteth wholly (in a maner) of one street, leading East and West, welneere the space of an Easterne mile, whose South side is hidden from the Sunne, by an high hill, so neerely coasting it in most places, as neither can light haue entrance to their staires, nor open ayre to their other roomes. Their back houses, of more necessary, then cleanly seruice, as kitchins, stables, &c. are clymed vp vnto by steps, and their filth by euery great showre, washed downe thorow their houses into the streetes.

The other side is also ouerlooked by a great hill, though somewhat farther distant: and for a Corollarium, their Conduit water runneth thorow the Churchyard, the ordinary place of buriall, for towne and parish. It breedeth therefore little cause of maruaile, that euery generall infection is here first admitted, & last excluded: yet the many decayed houses, proue the towne to haue bene once very populous; and, in that respect, it may stil retaine the precedence, as supported by a weekly market, the greatest of Cornwall, the quarter Sessions for the East diuision, and halfe yeerely faires. The iurisdiction thereof is administred by a Maior and his brethren, and vpon warrant of their Charter, they claime authoritie, to take acknowledgment of statute bonds.

In former times, the Bishop of Cornwall (as I haue elsewhere related) held his See at S. Petroos, in this towne, vntill the Danish pirats, firing their Palace, [981.] forced them to remoue the same, with their residence, vnto S. Germans. They were succeeded by a Priory, and Friery; which later, serued a while as a house of correction, for the shire, but with greater charge, then benefit, or continuance.

For other accidents, I find, that Perkyn Warbecke, [11.H.7.] after his landing in the West parts of Cornwall, made this towne the Rendez vous of his assembling forces, for atchieuing his, alike deseruing, and speeding enterprise against King Henry the seuenth.

Hither, also, in the last commotion, flocked the Rebels, [3.Ed.6.] from all quarters of the shire, pitching their campe at the townes end; and here they imprisoned such Gentlemen, as they had plucked out of their holes, and houses, vntill the fortune of warre gaue verdit with the right of iustice, for their well deserued euill speeding.

Sir Anthony Kingston, then Prouost-marshall of the Kings armie, hath left his name more memorable, then commendable amongst the townsemen, for causing their Maior to erect a gallowes before his owne doore, vpon which, (after hauing feasted Sir Anthony) himselfe was hanged.

In like sort (say they) he trussed vp a millers man, thereby, for that he presented himselfe in the others stead, saying he could neuer do his master better seruice.

[125]

But mens tongues, readily inclined to the worst reports, haue left out a part of the truth, in this tale, that the rest might carrie the better grace. For Sir Anthony did nothing herein, as a Iudge by discretion, but as an officer by direction; and besides, hee gaue the Maior sufficient watchwordes of timely warning, & large space of respite (more then which, in regard of his owne perill, he could not afford) to shift for safety, if an vneschewable destiny, had not haltered him to that aduancement. As for the millers man, he equalled his master, in their common offence of rebellion, and therefore it deserued the praise of mercy, to spare one of the two, and not the blame of crueltie, to hang one for another.

I should perhaps haue forgotten the free schoole here, maintayned by her Maiesties liberalitie, were I not put in mind thereof through a fore-halfening of this rebellion, by an action of the schollers, which I will report from some of their owne mouthes. About a yeere before this sturre was raysed, the schollers, who accustomably diuide themselues, for better exploiting their pastimes, grew therethrough into two factions; the one whereof, they called the olde religion; the other, the new. This once begunne, was prosecuted amongst them in all exercises, and, now and then, handled with some egernesse and roughnes, each partie knowing, and still keeping the same companions, and Captaine. At last one of the boyes, conuerted the spill of an old candlesticke to a gunne, charged it with powder and a stone, and (through mischance, or vngraciousnesse) therewith killed a calfe: whereupon, the owner complayned, the master whipped, and the diuision ended.

By such tokens, sometimes wonderfull, sometimes ridiculous, doth God at his pleasure, foreshewe future accidents: as in the Planets, before the battell at Thrasimenus, betweene Hannibal and the Romanes, by the fighting together of the Sunne and Moone. In birds, what time Brute brought forth the remnant of his army at Philippi, against Caesar and Anthony, by the furious bickering betweene two Eagles. In men, against the destruction of Hierusalem, by the encountring of Chariots and armies in the ayre. And before Alexanders battel with Darius; first, by a casual skirmish of the camp-straglers, vnder two Captaines, borrowing the names of those Princes; and then by Alexanders voluntary setting those Captaines to a single combat. Yea (to bring these examples neerer home) the like hath hapned both before and sithence, amongst boyes in other places.

When Caesar was departed from Rome, to try the title of the worlds Empire with Pompey, the towns boyes (without any mans commaund) parted in twayne: the one side calling themselues Pompeyans, the other Caesarians; and then darrayning a kinde of battell (but without Armes) the Caesarians got the ouerhand.

A like prank vnder the like assumed names, and with like successe and boding, they plaied, when Octauius and Anthony were, with like meanes, to decide the like Soueraignty.

And to the same purpose, Procopius affirmeth, that the Samnite boyes, when they draue their cattel to feeding, after their vsual maner of pastime, chose out amongst themselues, two of the best actiuity and seemelinesse; the one, they named Bellisarius, Generall for Iustinian the Emperour in Italy, the other Vitiges king of the Gothes, [126] against whome hee warred. In the buckling of these counterfeite Commaunders, it fell out, that Vitiges had the worst, whome the aduerse party with a iesting and craking maner, hanged vp at the next tree, in earnest, but yet with no intent to kill him.

This while it happens, that a Woolfe is descryed: away runne the boyes: fast abides the imaginary Felon, and so fast, that for want of timely rescouse, the breath poasted out of his body, and left the same a liuelesse carkase. The which notifyed to the Samnites, quitted the striplings (or slipstrings) of their punishment, but encreased the dismay of the elder people.

A like accident befell sithence, hy testimony of the ceremonious Texera, as a presage of Lewes the prince of Condyes death, 1569. Foure daies before which, at Xaintes, the youth of all sorts, from 9. to 22. yeres age, assembled, and (of their owne accord) chose two Commaunders, one they entitled the Prince of Condy, the other Mounsieur, who then lay in the field against him. For three dayes space, they violently assaulted each other, with stones, clubs, and other weapons, vntill at last it grewe to Pistoles: by one of which, the imaginary Prince receiued a quelling wound in his head, about 10. a clock in the morning: the very howre (saith this Portugall confessour) that the Prince himselfe, by a like shot was slaughtered.

The same authour vouched a semblable chaunce, somewhat before the siege of Rochell 1572. where, some of the boyes banded themselues, as for the Maior and others for the King; who after 6. dayes skirmishing, at last made a composition, and departed: even as that siege endured sixe moneths, and finally brake vp in a peace.

So doth Mercurius Gallobelgicus giue vs to wit, that in the yeere 1594. a Turkish Beglerbey of Greece, either seeking by a fore-coniecture, to be ascertained himselfe, or desirous to nusle the yonger sort in martiall exployts, led out of Alba Regalis, about 600. Turkish boyes, aged betweene 11. and 14. yeeres, and seuered them into two troups, terming the one, The Christian, the other, The Turkish batalion. Those, he directed to call vpon Iesus, these, vpon Hala: both parts he enioyned to bicker coragiously, and egged them onward with the enticement of rewards. The token is giuen, the forces encounter, the fight is hote. In the end, the Turks betake themselues to their heeles, and Iesus party carryeth away the victory. But such occurrents do not alwayes either foregoe, or foresignifie; for sometimes they fall out idle, and sometimes not at all. Howbeit, Nicetaes Choniates taketh it very vnkindly, that God woud not spare some watchword out of his prescience, to the Constantinopolitanes, what time Baldwyn Earle of Flaunders and others, first assisted, and then conquered their Citie.

Touching Veall the Mercurialist, I haue spoken in my former booke.

The youthlyer sort of Bodmyn townsmen vse sometimes to sport themselues, by playing the box with strangers, whome they summon to Halgauer. The name signifieth the Goats moore, and such a place it is, lying a little without the towne, and very full of quauemires. When these mates meet with any rawe seruingman, or other young master, who may serue and deserue to make pastime, they cause him to be solemnely arrested, [127] for his appearance before the Maior of Halgauer, where he is charged with wearing one spurre, or going vntrussed, or wanting a girdle, or some such like felony: and after he hath beene arraygned and tryed, with all requisite circumstances, iudgement is giuen in formal termes, and executed in some one vngracious pranke or other, more to the skorne, then hurt of the party condemned.

Hence is sprung the prouerb, when we see one slouenly appareled, to say, He shall be presented in Halgauer Court.

But now and then, they extend this merriment with the largest, to the preiudice of ouer-credulous people, perswading them to fight with a Dragon lurking in Halgauer, or to see some strange matter there: which concludeth at least, with a trayning them into the mire.

Within short space after the great fame dispersed, touching the rare effects of Warwickshire wels, some idle enuious head raysed a brute, that there rested no lesse vertue (forsooth) for healing all diseases, in a plentifull spring, neere vnto Bodmyn, called Scarlets well: which report grew so farre, and so fast, that folke ranne flocking thither in huge numbers, from all quarters. But the neighbour Iustices, finding the abuse, and looking into, the consequence, forbad the resort, sequestred the spring, and suppressed the miracle. Howbeit, the water should seeme to be healthfull, if not helpfull: for it retaineth this extraordinary quality, that the same is waightier, then the ordinary of his kinde, and will continue the best part of a yeere, without alteration of sent or taste; onely you shall see it represent many colours, like the Raine-bowe, which (in my conceite) argueth a running thorow some minerall veine, and therewithall a possessing of some vertue.

Aside from this towne, towards the North sea, extendeth a fruitfull veine of land, comprizing certayne parishes, which serueth better then any other place in Cornwall for Winter feeding, and suitably enricheth the Farmours. Herethrough, sundry Gentlemen haue there planted their seates, as, in S. Kew, master Carnsew, at Bokelly: in S. Endelion, master Roscarrock, at his House of the same denomination: besides, master Penkeuel, Nichols, Barret, Flammock, Cauel, and diuers more.

Carnsew, rightly Carndeaw, purporteth in Cornish, a black rock: and such a one the heire owneth which gaue name to his ancient possessed mannour, as the mannour to his ancestours. His house Bokelly may be deriued from Both, in Cornish, a Goate and kelly which is lost: and the Goate he giueth for his Armes. This Gent. father married the daughter of Fits in Deuon and left behinde him three sonnes, Richard, Mathew and William, with two daughters: those, brought vp in learning and experience abroade: these, in vertue and modesty at home: the fruites whereof, they taste and expresse, in a no lesse praise-worthy, then rare-continuing concord, hauing (not through any constrayning necessitie, or constraintiue vowe) but on a voluntary choyce, made their elder brothers mansion a Colledge of single liuing, & kinde entertaining. Amongst whom, I may not omit the yongest brother, whose well qualified and sweete pleasing sufficiency draweth him out from this cloyster, to conuerse with and assist his friends, and to whose sounder iudgement, I owe the thankful acknowledgement of [128] many corrected slippings in these my notes. The armes of this family are thus blasoned, S. a Goat passant. A. attired and trippled 0.

Roscarrock, in Cornish, meaneth a flower, and a rock, in English. Roses are his armes, and the North rocky clifs, which bound his demaines, perhaps added the rest. The heire hath issue by the daughter of Treuanion. His father maried the sole Inheritrix to Pentire, whose dwelling, Pentuan, is seated on the South sea, so as he might make vse of either climate for his residence. The family is populous; but of them two brothers, Hugh, for his ciuill carriage, and kinde hospitality, and Nicholas for his industrious delight in matters of history and antiquity, doe merit a commending remembrance. They beare A. a Cheuron betweene 2. Roses, G. and a sea-tenche nayante proper.

The little parish called Temple, skirteth this hundred, on the waste side thereof: a place, exempted from the Bishops iurisdiction, as once appertayning to the Templers, but not so from disorder: for if common report communicate with truth, many a bad mariage bargaine is there yerely slubbred vp.

Hundred of West.

WIth Trig Hundred on the South side, confineth that of West, but taketh his name from the relation which it beareth to that of East: the circuit thereof is not so large, as fruitfull.

In entring the same, wee will first pitch at the Looes, two seuerall Corporations, distinguished by the addition of East and West, abutting vpon a nauigable creek, and ioyned by a faire bridge of many arches. They tooke that name from a fresh riuer, which there payeth his tribute to the sea: and the riuer (as I coniecture) from his low passage, betweene steepe coasting hils: for Loo, and lowe, after the Cornish pronunciation, doe little differ.

East-Loo voucheth lesse antiquity, as lately incorporated, but vanteth greater wealth, as more commodiously seated: yet the foundation of their houses is grounded on the sand, supporting (naythelesse) those poore buildings, with a sufficient stablenesse. Their profit chiefly accrueth from their weekely markets, and industrious fishing, with boats of a middle size, able to brooke, but not crosse the seas: howbeit, they are not altogether destitute of bigger shipping: amongst which, one hath successiuely retained the name of the George of Loo, euer since the first so called, did a great while sithence, in a furious fight, take 3. French men of warre.

The towne towards the sea, is fenced with a garretted wall, against any sudden attempt of the enemy.

West-Loo mustereth an endowment with the like meanes, but in a meaner degree, and hath of late yeeres somewhat releeued his former pouerty.

Almost directly ouer against the barred hauen of Loo, extendeth S. Georges Iland, about halfe a mile in compasse, and plentifully stored with Conies. When the season of the yere yeeldeth oportunity, a great abundance of sundry sea-fowle breed upon the strond, where they lay, & hatch their egges, without care of building any nests: at which time, repairing thither, you shall see your head shadowed with a cloud of old ones, through their diuersified cries, witnessing their general dislike of your disturbance, [129] and your feete pestered with a large number of yong ones, some formerly, some newly, and some not yet disclosed; at which time (through the leaue and kindnesse of Master May, the owner) you may make and take your choyce. This Gent. Armes, are G, a Cheuron vary betweene three Crownes.

The middle market towne of this Hundred, is Liskerd. Les, in Cornish, is broad, and ker, is gone. Now, if I should say, that it is so called, because the widenesse of this Hundred, heere contracteth the traffike of the Inhabitants, you might well thinke I iested, neither dare I auow it in earnest. But whencesoever you deriue the name, hard it is, in regard of the antiquity, to deduce the towne and Castle from their first originall; and yet I will not ioyne hands with them who terme it Legio, as founded by the Romanes, vnlesse they can approue the same by a Romane faith.

Of later times, the Castle serued the Earle of Cornwall for one of his houses; but now, that later is worm-eaten out of date and vse. Coynages, Fayres, and markets, (as vitall spirits in a decayed bodie) keepe the inner partes of the towne aliue, while the ruyned skirtes accuse the iniurie of time, and the neglect of industrie.

S. Cleer parish, coasting Liskerd, brooketh his name by a more percing, then profitable ayre, which in those open wastes, scowreth away thrift, as well as sicknesse. Thither I rode, to take view of an antiquitie, called The other halfe stone; which I found to be thus: There are two moore stones, pitched in the ground, very neere together, the one of a more broade then thicke squarenesse, about 8. foote in height, resembling the ordinary spill of a Crosse, and somewhat curiously hewed, with diaper worke. The other commeth short of his fellowes length, by the better halfe, but, welneere, doubleth it in breadth, and thickenesse, and is likewise handsomely carued. They both are mortifed in the top, leauing a little edge at the one side, as to accommodate the placing of somewhat else thereupon. In this latter, are graued certaine letters, which I caused to be taken out, and haue here inserted, for abler capacities, then mine own, to interpret.

[image, approx d O n l
E R T : R O
3 a U I T
p R O a n
l m a

where 'a' is a Greek alpha character]

Why this should be termed, The other halfe stone, I cannot resolue with my selfe, and you much lesse. Howbeit, I haltingly ayme, it may proceede from one of these respects; either, because it is the halfe of a monument, whose other part resteth elsewhere: or, for that it meaneth, after the Dutch phrase and their owne measure, a stone and halfe. For, in Dutch, Ander halb, (another halfe) importeth, One and a halfe, as Sesqui alter doth in Latine. It should seeme to be a bound stone: for some of the neighbours obserued to mee, that the [130] same limiteth iust the halfe way, betweene Excester and the lands ende, and is distant full fiftie myles from either.

Not farre hence, in an open plaine, are to be seene certaine stones, somewhat squared, and fastened about a foote deepe in the ground, of which, some sixe or eight stand vpright in proportionable distance: they are termed, The hurlers. And alike strange obseruation, taketh place here, as at Stonehenge, to wit, that a redoubled numbring, neuer eueneth with the first. But far stranger is the country peoples report, that once they were men, and for their hurling vpon the Sabboth, so metamorphosed. The like whereof, I remember to haue read, touching some in Germany (as I take it) who for a semblable prophanation, with dauncing, through the Priests accursing, continued it on a whole yere together.